MAY 2015 30 NEW WINES IN STORE APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 CALIFORNIA IN THE AGE OF SOCIAL MEDIA GREEK VARIETALS STUNNING TREASURES DISCOVER CALIFORNIA SUNNY WINES FROM CALIFORNIA DISCOVERCALIFORNIAWINES.COM IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 30 newly arrived wines. DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQ Michel-André St-Jean MANAGER FOR SPECIALITY PRODUCTS, MARKETING – SAQ Sophie Drouin PUBLISHER – SAQ Johanne Morrisseau CONTRIBUTORS – SAQ François Beauregard, Éric Bertoldi, Liette Chaput, François Couture, Luc Dallaire, Martin De Lottinville, Maxime Desjardins, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon, Stéphane Leroux, Marie-Ève Meunier, Catherine Ouimet, Julie Perreault, Isabelle Plante, Alain Smith Médias Transcontinental S.E.N.C. 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H2K 3V9. 4 10 16 18 22 28 29 CALIFORNIA BY NATURE Varietals from the Golden State. IN THE AGE OF SOCIAL MEDIA California winemaking. TWO CLASSICS ON THE MENU Burgundy and Rioja. ROSÉS Better than ever. GREEK WINES Where to begin. ORIGINE QUÉBEC Les Vergers de la Colline. NEW ARRIVALS ON THE COVER In our age of virtual reality and social media, the wine world is changing. It’s true all over the planet, but perhaps even more when it comes to California Wines. Details on our specially selected new releases. UPCOMING EVENTS • SALON DES VINS ET DES SAVEURS RÉGIONALES DE ROUYN-NORANDA — MAY 1 • SALON DES VINS DE VAUDREUIL-SOULANGES — VAUDREUIL-DORION — MAY 13 • SALON VINS, BIÈRES ET SPIRITUEUX DE SAINT-LÉONARD-D’ASTON — MAY 23 Limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of products. Prices are subject to change without notice. May 2015 3 Sonoma San Francisco Napa California Paso Robles Los Angeles California producers were the first to market their wines by variety rather than appellation. Here’s an overview of the Golden State’s most popular grapes. San Diego ZINFANDEL M ore than any other grape, Zinfandel embodies California. Its rich history is closely linked to the growth of the Golden State, itself emblematic of the American Dream. In the mid-19th century, at the height of its gold rush, newcomers to California discovered a completely different kind of treasure: these exuberant and generous grapes. At the time, “Zin” was prized for making everyday wines, since its young vines produce high yields of super-sweet grapes. However, the vines, planted 100 to 150 years ago, have become less productive with age, which helps them yield some of the most remarkable and most distinctive cuvées in California. The most planted variety after Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel became all the rage in the 1960s and ’70s for the production of White Zinfandel, a simple and sweet rosé. But when winemakers discovered the state’s magnificent old vines, many started producing wines that were both powerful and complex, with aromas of plum, tobacco, spice and, sometimes, dried 4 May 2015 herbs. “Those old vines certainly have a wonderful history,” says Jon Bonné, wine columnist for the San Francisco Chronicle and author of the excellent The New California Wine (Ten Speed Press, 2013). “They are responsible for several top wines.” Bonné notes that there are significant nuances among the best Zinfandels from places like Lodi, Dry Creek, Santa Cruz and Sonoma. Grapes from the latter two have a quasi-legendary advocate, Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards. “Ridge is like the North Star that guides the world. The winery continues to be the standard and its wines are just as fine as ever,” says Bonné. “Most of the Zins sold today tend to be bold, rich and woody. For many, Zin works best when it makes an impact,” he adds. This approach to winemaking, made famous by labels like Seven Deadly Zins and Sledgehammer (which claims to be wine for “real” men), remains popular for one simple reason: When it comes to sales, it works. And that’s why Zinfandel still courts its surfer image: strong, intense and ready to turn heads. PHOTO: JEFF BERTING/GETTYIMAGES. CALIFORNIA BY NATURE IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 Like a surfer catching waves on the Pacific, Zinfandel can also impress. But it cannot coast on strength alone. Finesse and balance also have to be there. APRIL 30 UNITED STATES 2018 WEST COAST WINERY, ZINFANDEL LAKE SONOMA WINERY 2010, DRY CREEK VALLEY $24.75 12487864, 750 ML, 14.9% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 198 The Dry Creek Valley estate, located near Lake Sonoma, has one of the highest concentrations of old-vine Zinfandels in all of California. GRAPE: ZINFANDEL AROMAS PLUM, RIPE STRAWBERRY, PINE TREE, VANILLA ACIDITY – DISCREET SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – FULL PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – EVIDENT May 2015 5 IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 Scarlett Johansson is thrilled to receive a star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. APRIL 30 Like the biggest stars in Hollywood, Chardonnay has timeless appeal. UNITED STATES CHARDONNAY Whether bright and crisp or rich and opulent, Chardonnay is the incontestable star in California, the grape that never seems to lose its appeal. For many people, this variety is practically synonymous with white wine. Chardonnay’s popularity has held over the decades despite both shifts in taste and vociferous detractors, who every now and then attempt to revive the “ABC” movement (anything but Chardonnay) that arose in the 1990s as a reaction to the wine’s omnipresent woody and buttery style. Today, though you still find examples of that style, freshness, citrus and minerality reign among the majority of producers. Chardonnay represents more than half of all white grapes planted in the state, totalling some 40,000 hectares. This is more than double the 6 May 2015 WEST COAST WINE, CHARDONNAY PLUME 2012, NAPA VALLEY $27.65 12485754, 750 ML, 14.3% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 plantings of the other three most popular white varieties (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Colombard). Chardonnay is mainly produced in California’s Central Valley, as are the majority of popular varieties. The reason is simple: This is where the large commercial producers grow most of their grapes. But Chardonnay grapes grown by the ocean are, on the whole, more valued. Sonoma, Monterey and to a lesser extent Santa Barbara produce the most accomplished and sought-after Chardonnays because these areas benefit from the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean, an all-important cooling effect that enables the California Chardonnays to emulate its noble ancestors in Burgundy. Plume is a collaboration between the Zepponi family from Napa Valley and the Stewart Family from renowned producer Quails’ Gate in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. GRAPE: CHARDONNAY AROMAS PINEAPPLE, PEAR, LINDEN, ACACIA, HONEY, OAK ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – RICH WOOD – PRONOUNCED CALIFORNIA BY NATURE (CONTINUED) American winemakers, sporting their cowboy hats: They always knew California’s climate and terroir would bring out the best in the renowned Bordeaux grape. PHOTOS: MICHAEL GOING/ALAMY (S. JOHANSSON); HILARY BRODEY/CORBIS (HAT). CABERNET SAUVIGNON The classic California Cabernet Sauvignon is the ultimate status symbol, as shown by the number of business execs who invested in the Napa Valley to have their very own prestigious “Cab.” In fact, Cabernet Sauvignon is practically synonymous with Napa because this most global of grape varieties does really well in the valley’s sunny climate. Its producers, dreaming of Bordeaux while working the vines in their cowboy hats, knew full well that their land could produce quality grapes even before they competed against – and beat – the French grands crus at the 1976 Judgment of Paris. Almost a quarter of the state’s Cabernet Sauvignon is planted in Napa Valley, and the varietal represents just under half of all the wine produced in Napa. No matter where in the state they come from, California Cabs have a specific aroma profile: dark fruit (especially blackcurrant), new oak, with a touch of smoke, leather, spice and even dust. Blending (with Merlot and other grapes) allows for an original spin. Take, for example, A Proper Claret by Randall Grahm – his first venture into a Bordeaux-style wine. A great lover of Rhône varieties, the founder of Bonny Doon Vineyard admits that he turned to Cab and co. for their high availability, as he wanted to make a highervolume cuvée. “Here, weapons-grade Grenache is rare, whereas Cab and Merlot... But I wanted to create a funkier wine, so for A Proper Claret, I used Cab from cool-climate areas in Monterey to get things going, and then I added some Tannat, Petit Verdot and Syrah, which gave the wine those silky, mineral notes, and some violet,” he explains. In California, reinventing the classics is all part of the game. May 2015 7 CALIFORNIA BY NATURE (CONTINUED) PINOT NOIR Subtle and loaded with nuance, Pinot is at once sensual and intellectual. It appeals to hipsters and the erudite, as well as to epicures who want a touch of elegance alongside a refined, fresh cuisine. In San Francisco, Pinot Noir is popular with trendsetters, who are often unenthusiastic about the ripe and lush profile of most California wines. That being said, in regions like the Russian River Valley and Carneros in southern Napa, the sun gives the Pinot extra power: It deepens its colour, raises its alcohol content, transforms its cherry notes into dark fruit and gives it a spiciness reminiscent of Syrah. Burgundy enthusiasts might find such richness alarming, and truth be told, this pushing of the Pinot to its maximum has stirred much debate. 8 May 2015 More and more California wine-growers are going the Burgundy route and planting their Pinots as close as possible to the ocean and at elevations that take advantage of the cool Pacific mists to slow the ripening process and maintain freshness. That’s how it’s done in Sonoma, where almost half of all California Pinot Noirs are grown. That’s also how Calera’s Josh Jensen in the Central Coast did it – by planting vines at 700 metres’ elevation overlooking the ocean. This doesn’t necessarily result in austere wines; Calera’s 2012 Central Coast Pinot Noir shows off the hot and sunny vintage with a good amount of spiciness and a nice serving of raspberry pie. A wine to rally hedonists and burgundy purists, perhaps? PHOTOS: JILL SCHNEIDER/CORBIS (WINE); JOHN PYLE/CORBIS (FOOTBALL PLAYERS). No other variety is discussed as much as Pinot Noir. The smallest stylistic or vintage variation sets off the most knowledgeable fans. The California sun’s effects on the grape is also often debated. SAUVIGNON BLANC AND FRIENDS Like individual players on a sports team, each varietal brings to a blend its own combination of strength, liveliness and intensity. RHÔNE VARIETALS Just as in the southern Rhône, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and other grapes are often teamed up in California, resulting in generous and tasty blends with a spicy character. You could say the whole is more than the sum of its parts, with each grape playing its position to provide overall balance and strength in the wine. Grenache is mellow and spicy, Mourvèdre tempts with intense dark fruit and licorice, Syrah offers a mellower fruit and more maturity than its companions from the Côte-Rôtie or Hermitage appellation, and Carignan, often from old vines, adds structure and lovely tannins. Syrah moved ahead of the others at one time, capturing the spotlight on its own with maximum ripeness and nearly 16-percent alcohol content, but its status has since waned. On the white side, Viognier has risen in popularity, while Roussanne, Marsanne and white or grey Grenache are prized but fairly rare. These immigrants from the Rhône do particularly well in California’s hottest climes, such as in Paso Robles and the Sierra Foothills, where even the Cabernet sometimes gets a little beat down from the powerful sunshine. Energetic winemakers like Randall Grahm, Bill Easton and other “Rhône Rangers” have long been leading the charge for the varietals’ dominance. They have won over devoted fans, but Rhône varieties still have a way to go before they rule the California wine business. There are more hectares of Pinot in California than all the Rhône varieties combined. Sauvignon Blanc also takes on a distinctive personality in California. Generally speaking, it is more ample and exotic in style than the Sauvignon Blanc produced in New Zealand. California winemakers have also successfully flown the banner of fumé blanc, the designation invented by Robert Mondavi to distinguish barrel-aged Sauvignon Blanc. Château St-Jean (see New Arrivals, page 29) is an excellent example of this Bordeaux-inspired approach, done with a sunny, free-spirited disposition. Dozens of other grape varieties flourish in the sun of this vast state. Looking for Vermentino, Ribolla-Gialla, Trousseau Gris, Nebbiolo, Charbono, maybe a little Malvoisie or Teroldego? You can be sure that somewhere in California there is a winemaker with a few barrels, a winemaker proud to offer you something to discover. May 2015 9 10 May 2015 IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 California Wine IN THE AGE OF SOCIAL MEDIA The worldwide web and social media are transforming the wine world, with the Golden State leading the way. Vintners may be going virtual but the wines they produce are definitely the real thing. D APRIL 30 UNITED STATES 2020 CLINE CELLARS, BIG BREAK 2012, CONTRA COSTA COUNTY $30.25 12484111, 750 ML, 15% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 The old Zinfandel vines (over 100 years old) from the Big Break vineyard in the Contra Costa region are located near a eucalyptus grove, which infuses the wine with some mentholated notes. GRAPE: ZINFANDEL AROMAS CHERRY, EUCALYPTUS, CEDAR, VANILLA ACIDITY – DISCREET PHOTO: MAUDE CHAUVIN. SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – FULL PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – EVIDENT uring the 2014 harvest, La Crema Winery launched an interactive program called Virtual Vintner Experience and invited thousands of consumers to weigh in on every step and decision that goes into the making of a particular cuvée. Online participants came back to vote regularly as the process played out. The experience led to the creation of a Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley appellation, fermented with natural yeasts (a subject of hot debate among participants) and aged for nine months in barrels (easy on the new oak). Last January, participants chose a name – Virtuoso – and, by the end of this year, 500 cases of the cuvée will go on sale. Online, naturally. Sales will no doubt be relatively brisk, what with all those vintners eager to discover the wine they helped create. “Several things surprised us along the way,” says Mark Gordon, digital communications manager for Jackson Family Wines, which owns La Crema. “The segment on yeasts, for example, turned out to be one of the most popular, triggering intense discussions among participants. And when the time came for deciding on appellations, users spent an average of two and a half minutes on the La Crema website – a long time in this ADD, digital era.” These virtual vintners had an unusual level of involvement, and adventure, in the world of Wine 2.0. It’s interesting to note that Jackson Family Wines, which also owns the Kendall-Jackson label, has invested heavily in social media May 2015 11 CALIFORNIA WINE IN THE AGE OF SOCIAL MEDIA (CONTINUED) in the past couple of years, notably by hiring Steve Heimoff, who until his appointment as the company’s blogger-in-chief was a prominent columnist for Wine Enthusiast. Jackson Family Wines aims to be in tune with today’s wine consumers, who are very keen to learn, appreciate and exchange ideas. VIRTUAL REALITY IS PART OF THE MIX Randall Graham, the pioneering brain behind Bonny Doon Vineyard, is a huge social media fan. He’s garnered more than 300,000 followers on Twitter alone, a number worthy of a Hollywood star. The winemaker seems to be in constant conversation online with fans of Le Cigare Volant and other Bonny Doon bottlings. Still, he’s aware of a need for caution. “The future, especially for premium wines, is to build deep personal relationships with customers. You can’t do that by remote control. With social media, it’s often a bit like running into people whose face you sort of remember, but I’m not sure if digital always creates really solid contacts. I think analog is the answer.” Graham adds that to establish genuine conversations (that can then be continued online) nothing can replace face-to-face encounters, visits to the vineyard and tastings with the winemaker. Paul Mabray of VinTank, a company that monitors social media for wine producers, concurs: “The consumer is digital. Fidelity is better when you establish it in person. Wine tourism is a big deal in California, but that can make us lazy, since we already sell a lot on site. The problem is that we let them go home without following up.” 12 May 2015 According to Mabray, in a business where brands are sometimes interchangeable, customer service makes all the difference, whether producers sell their wines online or in shops. Mabray is still taken aback by companies that can’t be bothered to react when wine lovers – either on Facebook or Twitter – take the time to gush about their products. “I tell vintners: ‘You’ve got someone answering the phone, why don’t you have someone doing the same thing on Facebook?’” Jean-Charles Boisset, president of Boisset Family Estates, which owns properties in Burgundy, California and Quebec (see page 15), also believes that the future depends on the back-and-forth between customers’ virtual and actual experiences. His family works hard to make visits to its California wineries far more engaging than just providing tastings of current vintages in a nondescript bar. This year, Boisset will open a 5,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art interactive museum at one of their most recent acquisitions, Buena Vista, California’s oldest wine-producing estate. Boisset also cites the example of Raymond Vineyards, a Napa property he acquired in 2009, where visitors with a reservation can play winemaker for a day, blending different Napa sub-appellations to create a personal bottle. In another room, they can taste wine made from each parcel of land while touching samples of the soil itself. And to top it all off, there’s the Red Room, clad in deep red velvet and illuminated by Baccarat crystal chandeliers, where members who PHOTOS: BONNYDOONVINEYARD.COM/RANDALL-GRAHM. ZUMA PRESS, INC./ALAMY (P. MABRAY). Randall Grahm is convinced that social media facilitates interactions between wine producers and their customers –but nothing can quite replace the value of face-to-face contact. IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 Paul Mabray (in the foreground) with the VinTank management team. pay a $1,000 annual fee can play pool or poker and taste exclusive vintages. “The goal is to help you discover emotions and senses – of touch, smell and sight – to appreciate your own feelings and to know exactly what it is you like. Then you can really enjoy wine, and learn to celebrate life itself,” says the ebullient winemaker and businessman. “We want visitors to smile and feel happy. Vineyards are not temples. There’s a limit to what can be said about fermentation and barrel types.” To bring the experience home for consumers, Boisset Family Estates has developed a personal Facebook page for the boss. Simply called JeanCharles, it now has more than 50,000 followers. And to stimulate sales, Boisset’s California operations include some 700 representatives throughout the United States who organize tasting parties on a commission basis, not unlike Tupperware evenings, but with the focus on content rather than containers! It’s a way of maintaining personal contact between producers and wine enthusiasts and making travel distance less of an issue. KEEP THE MESSAGE SIMPLE California wine producers realize that if they wish to attract consumers to events, either online or in person, they must avoid intimidating them. As Paul Mabray points out, most wine enthusiasts have a fairly relaxed attitude about wine. He’s created a web page, called Wine Snaps, that tracks wine-related photos posted on Instagram. In most cases, the photos show people happily holding or sipping a glass of white or red – there’s no information about brands, vintage details or tasting notes. So even though wine geeks are an important part of the clientele, Mabray concludes, you still have to keep your message simple. Stephanie Gallo, vice-president of marketing for the imposing family-run E&J Gallo Winery, has been According to Paul Mabray, wine producers must find ways to interact on social media in a timely, easygoing and direct manner. hammering home that very same message. In an interview with Adweek magazine, she explains that millennial consumers approach wine without preconceived ideas. “They don’t have an elitist feeling about it, or that wine is only supposed to be on the table with gourmet food.” For instance, Gallo made Barefoot wines, one of the company’s runaway successes, a sponsor to the World Series of Beach Volleyball – definitely a world away from the realm of the white-gloved sommelier. For Mark Gordon, the takeaway from La Crema’s social-media intelligence gathering is that customers are very practical. “They’re looking for something useful from their interactions with their favourite wineries, something that will help them improve the way they live their lives. As general as it may seem, they want advice on how to discover and explore wine.” A visitor reading a blog post on Thanksgiving hospitality might end up exploring food-wine pairings and the wines on offer by that producer, Gordon explains. And if they develop a love of wine in the process, then perhaps they’ll look into creating their own blend one day – online or in person. May 2015 13 CALIFORNIA WINE IN THE AGE OF SOCIAL MEDIA (CONTINUED) EASY GOURMET RECIPE AT SAQ.COM GET GRILLING This month, we’re firing up the barbecue. On the menu: grilled flank steak, blackcurrant reduction, blue potato chips and spinach salad with roasted pine nuts. Each dish wonderfully complements this Boisset Cabernet Sauvignon Raymond. California’s “king” varietal truly reflects the region’s style: It’s a structured and tasty wine with plenty of fruit that responds well to a bountiful meal. And the sun-kissed vintage will have you longing to get grilling outdoors. Red meat like flank steak pairs well with the wine’s strong tannins, and once grilled, the steak’s smoky flavours play off the subtle woody ones of the Cabernet Sauvignon. The aroma of dark berries in the wine is boosted by the blackcurrant reduction, and the woody-fruit balance is underscored by the fresh spinach salad. – Kler-Yann Bouteiller, sommelier 14 May 2015 The grilled and smoky flavours of barbecued fare call for robust, fruity reds. As luck would have it, California is awash in them. Its Cabernet Sauvignons fit the bill perfectly, although you can also find satisfying pairings by trying the perhaps less familiar Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah varietals. RECIPE: MAUDE CHAUVIN, PHOTOGRAPHER. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CÉCILE VINEZ. California-Style Flank Steak BEHIND THE WINE JEAN-CHARLES BOISSET | NORTH COAST AT A GLANCE The small wine-trading business founded in 1961 by then 18-year-old Jean-Claude Boisset is today one of the Top 20 family-owned wine producers in the world. APRIL 30 Now run by the founder’s son, Jean-Charles, the Boisset group owns more than 20 estates in France and California. Boisset also has a Quebec connection: It owns 50 percent of the cider house La Face Cachée de la Pomme in Hemmingford. “I fell head over heels for it the first time I tasted their ice cider,” says Jean-Charles Boisset, who wants to heavily push its distribution in France. The Boisset group’s marketing approach uniquely combines the whimsical and extravagant image of its president Jean-Charles Boisset with a deep love of terroir in all its diversity. • Conquering America Early on, Boisset purchased a small plot in Gevrey-Chambertin. Today the company has vineyards all over Burgundy, with wineries like Mommessin, Bouchard Aîné & Fils, J. Moreau & Fils and the excellent Domaine de la Vougeraie. There is also Skalli in Languedoc as well as Raymond, DeLoach, Buena Vista and others in California. • Energy and Glamour Boisset is a dynamic company, with a distinctive, glamorous image. Under Jean-Charles Boisset – who happens to be married to Gina Gallo, another heir to a family wine empire – the estates have adopted an innovative marketing approach featuring the glitzy public personality of “JCB.” • Vines and Wines Boisset strongly supports organic farming, attention to terroir and sustainable practices at its wineries. At Raymond Vineyards in Napa, for example, biodynamic methods were initiated immediately after acquisition. The group’s Burgundy headquarters, simply called Maison Jean-Claude Boisset, is emblematic of this approach: Since 2002, under the direction of the exuberant and demanding winemaker Gregory Patriat, it has been producing “haute couture” wines, brilliantly highlighting the particularities of each cru and each parcel in dozens of cuvées. UNITED STATES 2022 RAYMOND FAMILY CLASSIC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NORTH COAST $22.25 12502471, 750 ML, 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 250 Since 2009, the Boisset family has been breathing new life and energy into this well-established estate, which was named Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine in 2012. GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON AROMAS CHERRY, BLACKCURRANT, DARK CHOCOLATE, VANILLA ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – FULL PALATE – STRUCTURED WOOD – EVIDENT TWO CLASSICS ON THE MENU Here are two wines that go well with flavourful summer fare. APRIL 30 EASY GOURMET Savoury Mushroom Tart FRANCE RECIPE AT SAQ.COM ALBERT BICHOT, SECRET DE FAMILLE 2012, BOURGOGNE $22.00 11153281, 750 ML, 13% ABV A BURGUNDY TO START T he classic Bourgogne appellation has upped the ante quite a bit over the last few years, thanks to the tireless work of Burgundians to increase its overall quality. “It was absolutely necessary,” says Albéric Bichot, head of La Maison Albert Bichot. “Run-of-themill Burgundies were being produced from poor-quality batches, and that wasn’t helping the region’s image.” Created in 2007, Bichot’s Secret de Famille Pinot Noir, however, is produced from a dozen specifically selected hectares. “We use grapes from wine growers that we know well and follow closely. The vines are on well-situated parcels of land, in vineyards that are in the regional Bourgogne appellation, but right next to the more specific appellation areas of prestigious villages like 16 May 2015 NUMBER OF CASES: 400 Pommard, Meursault and Nuits-Saint-Georges. We limit the yields to 40 or 42 hectolitres per hectare, rather than 60, and we process the grapes to standards just as high as if we were making Échezeaux.” The result: a cuvée with a fruity expression, a moderated dose of oak and a nice amount of complexity that goes perfectly with our mushroom starter. “The Pinot Noir is a particularly nice match,” says sommelier Kler-Yann Bouteiller. “It usually has a light touch of underbrush, which makes it appealing. The saltiness of the bacon delicately merges with the acidity and freshness of this cuvée. And the pinch of thyme opens up the subtle notes of dried herbs in the wine.” Who’s ready to crack the Bichot family secret? What is the “family secret” that gives the wine its name? It’s that the grapes come from well-located vineyards in prestigious villages like Chambolle-Musigny, Pommard and Nuits Saint Georges. GRAPE: PINOT NOIR AROMAS STRAWBERRY, RASPBERRY, CHERRY, HUMUS, HERBAL NOTES ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – LIGHT PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – SUBTLE IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 EASY GOURMET Grilled and Marinated Pork Tenderloin MAY 14 WA 93+ WS 90 V 93 SPAIN 2025 RECIPES: MAUDE CHAUVIN, PHOTOGRAPHER. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CÉCILE VINEZ. COMPAÑIA VINICOLA DEL NORTE DE ESPAÑA, IMPERIAL GRAN RESERVA RIOJA 2007, RIOJA $49.25 12203796, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV RECIPE AT SAQ.COM NUMBER OF CASES: 396 (6 BT) No effort is spared to maintain this cuvée’s reputation for quality. After all, its 2004 did win the Wine Spectator Wine of the Year! A powerful yet elegant wine, it’s best showcased during a good meal. GRAPES: TEMPRANILLO, GRACIANO AROMAS CHERRY, WILD STRAWBERRY, SPICE, FOREST FLOOR, VANILLA, TOBACCO ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – FULL PALATE – STRUCTURED WOOD – EVIDENT RIOJA WITH GRILLED PORK The Spanish know how to do wonders with wine – as well as with pork. How can you not salivate when simply thinking about the classic pairing of a Grand Reserve Rioja – the best of the best when it comes to the region’s traditional wines – and the Iberian flavours of grilled smoked-paprika pork tenderloin with red peppers. “There is an undeniable aromatic interaction in the mouth between the smoky, grilled notes of the meat dish and this robust, tasty wine,” says Bouteiller. The Imperial Gran Reserva from CVNE has long had an excellent reputation. The 2004 vintage scored the number one position in Wine Spectator magazine’s annual Top 100 in 2013. A blend featuring 85-percent Tempranillo, 10-percent Graciano and 5-percent Mazuelo, it is produced from the best grapes, chosen for their ability to age several years in French and American casks. Because of the long aging process, this Rioja has a wonderfully pronounced elegance and is the perfect companion to a summer-kickoff barbecue. “This pairing of pork and Spanish wine is all about texture,” says the sommelier. “Just as the marinade tenderizes and adds delectable flavour to the meat, time has allowed the wine’s tannins to soften considerably.” A Spanish classic, all the way. May 2015 17 ROSÉS: BETTER THAN EVER! Crafted by passionate wine growers, rosé has finally come into its own. A full-fledged wine that’s perfect for any occasion, it certainly merits its newfound fame. IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 R BODY – MEDIUM osé. The word alone evokes images of sun-drenched landscapes, lazy afternoons and al fresco dining. It suggests a quasi-nonchalance, a lightness of spirit, a simplicity. These are the very characteristics commonly associated with wines of this colour: simple, light, refreshing. But rosés are not considered great wines, the ones to serve to impress guests or to accompany an elaborate meal. Rosé can’t seem to shake its “minor wine” image, regardless of its big increase in popularity over the last few years. You’ll still find sweet wines like White Zinfandel among the most sold rosés in Quebec. With a great number of rosés in the highly sweet category and with their biggest sellers considered more closely related to juice than wine, it’s no wonder rosés are not taken seriously. But it’s a mistake to generalize. Bordeaux produces some of the greatest wines in the world, but does that mean that every wine from Bordeaux is great? Certainly some rosés are simple and easy, but others deserve the attention of connoisseurs: Not only are they excellent, they are also wonderfully versatile. Producing a good rosé is quite complicated. Some winemakers even go so far as to say rosé is the most difficult wine to produce. Far from being residue from the vinification of red wine, or a vulgar blend of “leftovers,” rosé is a full-fledged wine that demands great skill in the art of viticulture. PALATE – GENEROUS PRODUCTION NOTES MAY 14 FRANCE DOMAINE DE LA MORDORÉE, LA DAME ROUSSE ROSÉ 2014, TAVEL $26.75 12376881, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV PHOTO: MAUDE CHAUVIN, PHOTOGRAPHER. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CÉCILE VINEZ. NUMBER OF CASES: 180 Who is the redheaded lady (dame rousse) for which this cuvée is named? Like a mordorée, it is in fact a poetic nickname for the woodcock, a bird frequently seen around the estate. GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, CINSAULT, MOURVÈDRE, BOURBOULENC, CLAIRETTE AROMAS STRAWBERRY, RHUBARB, RASPBERRY, WHITE PEPPER ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY WOOD – SUBTLE There are two main ways to produce rosé: by direct pressing or by saignée (“bleeding”). The former consists of directly pressing the grapes and fermenting the juice, just as you would for white wine. The pressing may be preceded by a maceration period, which can vary from a few hours to a few days depending on the grape and the desired style, to draw out the colour and flavours before fermentation. (Vins Gris, or grey wines, are so named because of their very pale colour: They do not undergo maceration but do take on a bit of colour when crushed, at which time the skins are in contact with the juice.) The second method consists of bleeding a tank of macerating red grapes: Some of the juice is drained from the vat, then the coloured liquid is vinified into rosé. Any winemaker who produces a notable rosé will tell you that crafting a great wine requires respect for the product. To make a good rosé, you have to be focused from the start – selecting the right parcel of land for the vines, and cultivating and vinifying with rosé as the objective. The decisions related to cultivating, harvesting, crushing, macerating, pressing and fermenting are different for a red, a white or a rosé. And a secondary product created from another wine is rarely a product worthy of much interest. A MOST VERSATILE WINE Because they are light, refreshing and pair beautifully with just about any food, rosés are readily associated with summer. Reds can feel too heavy on hot days. Whites can seem too light with flavourful, fragrant summer fare and too aromatic to be versatile. Rosés tend to have a more restrained aromatic profile, and thus to pair May 2015 19 HERBED CRAB CAKES INGREDIENTS 454 g (1 lb) crab meat 1 egg 45 mL (3 tbsp) mayonnaise 60 mL (1/4 cup) herbs (tarragon, chervil, chives), finely chopped 2 1 green onions, finely chopped pinch cayenne pepper 125 mL (1/2 cup) Panko or regular bread crumbs Salt and freshly ground pepper Mango Yogourt Sauce 180 mL (3/4 cup) plain yogourt 1 mango, diced Zest of 1 lemon 1 pinch cayenne pepper Herbs (tarragon, chives), chopped, to taste 20 Salt, to taste May 2015 RECIPE AT SAQ.COM 12 CRAB CAKES Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 6 minutes STEP 1 In a bowl, combine the egg, mayonnaise, herbs, green onions and cayenne. Add the crab meat and bread crumbs. Season with salt and pepper. Mix gently. STEP 2 Shape into 12 patties, each about 60 mL (1/4 cup) of the mixture, and place them on a baking sheet. Set aside. STEP 3 In a bowl, combine all the ingredients for the yogourt sauce. Set aside. STEP 4 In a large non-stick skillet, heat a bit of olive oil over medium-high heat. Cook the crab cakes 3 minutes per side and serve with the yogourt sauce. IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 MAY 14 FRANCE RECIPE: MAUDE CHAUVIN, PHOTOGRAPHER. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSOIRES STYLIST: CÉCILE VINEZ. DOMAINE LES BÉATES, LES BÉATINES 2014, COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE $20.45 11232261, 750 ML, 13% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 400 Located to the west of the Provence region, the Aix-enProvence AOC benefits from the cooling effect of the mistral winds and from limestone-rich soils. Great conditions for terroir-driven rosés. GRAPES: SYRAH, CABERNET SAUVIGNON AROMAS GREEN APPLE, PEAR, BARLEY SUGAR, HERBS ACIDITY – LIVELY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – LIGHT PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – UNOAKED well with a variety of meals and flavours. The best rosés also have an intriguing texture on the palate that is just right with spicy dishes. But be warned, not all rosés are created equal. Their style is just as varied as their colour. From rosés that more closely resemble a pale red wine, to those with just 11-percent ABV with a nice helping of residual sugar, to those that are completely dry and heady with more than 14-percent ABV, rosés open up an inviting world of difference and pairings. Provence produces 35 percent of French AOC rosés, which are always dry and generally pale in colour. And the top bottles have a rich mouthfeel. They are the ideal accompaniment to classic Provençale dishes like pissaladière, tian, bouillabaisse, ratatouille, stuffed vegetables and brandade, as well as meals inspired by the French Mediterranean region, those featuring tomatoes, eggplant, fennel, zucchini, olives, herbes de Provence and olive oil. The notes of garrigue often found in the wines make them a natural with this type of cuisine. Mediterranean fish, such as red mullet, wolf fish and sardines, pair well with rosé. Salmon and tuna, whether grilled, baked or tartare, are also sumptuous with a good rosé, as is cod en papillote with tomatoes, black olives and capers. A ROSÉ FOR EVERY TASTE Rosés from the Rhône and Languedoc tend to be more full-bodied and robust. They’re delightful with grilled fare, such as white meats, sausages or even lamb chops with herbs and a bit of garlic. More pronounced wines, which are usually darker in colour and found in Spain or New World regions such as California and Chili, are best with simple yet flavourful everyday meals like all-dressed pizza, homemade burgers, and ribs. Given that there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to food-wine pairing, experimenting is fair game – and full of surprises. While red wine is commonly associated with magret duck breast, a Champagne rosé is divine with it especially if the magret is served with cranberries, currants or morello cherries. A true delicacy! And what about sweet crab and lobster? As seafood season kicks off, thoughts turn to white wines, which tend to marry quite well with crab and lobster. Red, on the other hand, is a bit more difficult to match, and many people find the combination leaves a metallic taste. Then of course there’s rosé: The texture of a top bottle will perfectly envelop the tender and tasty crab and lobster meat. When prepared simply, seafood pairs well with any number of rosés – just choose one that suits your current tastes and preferences. The liveliness of a Sancerre or a Burgundy rosé offers a pleasant contrast to the richness of the crab or lobster, and the wine’s minerality plays up the saltiness. With a bit of garlic and fresh herbs, these seafood dishes marry strikingly with a Côtes de Provence, Bandol or Collioure rosé. If serving a seafood salad, with apples and fennel for example, try a fruitier rosé, like a Grenache from Spain, or even a semidry rosé from the Loire. And of course, what’s better than a little bubbly for a festive occasion? A superior Champagne rosé or sparkling rosé will be a smash hit with a simple grilled lobster or pomegranate crab tartare. May 2015 21 GREEK BEAUTIES Quebecers are showing new interest in Greek wines. Understandable, given the new generation of talented winemakers that’s shaking up age-old traditions in Greece. An overview of typical grape varieties and pairing ideas. PHOTO: TETRA IMAGES/CORBIS. “ M y love affair with Greek wine started in 2008,” says sommelier and wine columnist Bill Zacharkiw. “It was a white wine made by Evangelos Gerovassiliou from the region of Epanomi, with two grapes I had never heard of before – Assyrtiko and Malagousia. I had to look on a map to find out where exactly Epanomi is located.” While the names of the grapes may have been foreign to him at the time, it reminded him of a Sauvignon Blanc blended with a touch of Muscat. “Familiar, yet still unique. I vowed that day to further investigate Greek wines, and seven years later, I am still discovering new grape varieties and new grapegrowing areas.” For the curious wine lover, Greece is a treasure chest of discovery. There are hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, many of which have been grown for thousands of years. Finding the right grape for the right place takes time, so we can safely presume that after millennia, the Greeks have done their due diligence. Many of these grapes have become so symbiotic with a terroir that they are grown only in a single region, or sometimes, on a single island. But the real beauty of this taste travelogue is that it doesn’t cost much. The vast majority of Greek wines can be had for less than $30, and many less than $20. Over the past three years, Greek wines have exploded onto the wine scene in Quebec. Sales of white wine have grown from $1.6-million in 2011 to over $2.9-million in 2013. And as consumers gain confidence in the whites, a similar increase in red wine consumption has begun. So where does a curious wine lover start? There is so much to discover. Here are some of the main grapes, where they are grown, and some food-pairing ideas. ASSYRTIKO If there is one grape variety that every wine lover must get to know, it’s Assyrtiko. While grown in a number of Greek regions, it is on the volcanic island of Santorini that it reaches exceptional heights. Winemaking on the island dates back to 1000 BC and, if terroir is defined by an enduring relationship between a grape variety, a land, a climate and a people, then few places can rival Assyrtiko from Santorini. The island is a treasure of old vines, and “old” in the truest sense of the word. In many grapegrowing regions, an old vine might be 50 years old. On Santorini, it’s not hard to find vines that are well over 200 years old. And how does it taste? In many ways it is like Sauvignon Blanc, built along acidity and freshness, though less aromatic and decidedly more mineral. It also tends to show a touch more richness. Food pairing: Assyrtiko wines make excellent aperitifs. But because of the mineral aspect, any seafood with an iodine note will work well. So try it with raw oysters, cold lobster, octopus and clams. RODITIS Roditis is grown throughout Greece, but this pinkskinned grape is indigenous to the north coast of the Peloponnese. Its failing is also its strength as it is a vine that adjusts quite easily to many different soils and climates and can be prone to high yields which creates diluted wines. However, when done right, it can produce beautifully delicate and finessed wines. The vines do best when put in a position that will temper their ripening, which means meagre soils and high altitudes. May 2015 23 Roditis is a refreshing, rather delicate white wine – ideal as an aperitif or with a plate of taramasalata. So what to expect? Great Roditis show floral notes like jasmine and delicate fruit flavours that can waver between citrus notes and white fruits like pear. Texture-wise, it is built along acidity, so expect freshness. Food pairing: As Roditis is a delicate white built along freshness, it is ideally suited as an aperitif, or served with light fish, squid and shrimp. Look to Greece for entrée ideas like taramosalata (fish roe) and tzatziki with grilled vegetables. MOSCHOFILERO Moschofilero is a pinkish grey-skinned grape, which is mostly grown in the higher altitudes of the appellation of Mantinia in the northern part of the Peloponnese. It drinks much like another grape of the same colour – Pinot Gris. 24 May 2015 MAY 14 GREECE DOMAINE TETRAMYTHOS, RODITIS 2013, PATRAS $16.45 12484575, 750 ML, 13% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 250 Located on Mount Aroania and cooled by the winds coming from the Gulf of Corinth, this estate is gaining international recognition for the quality of its wines. A winery to watch. GRAPE: RODITIS AROMAS PEAR, BANANA, TART CANDY ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – LIGHT PALATE – DELICATE WOOD – UNOAKED IN STORES APRIL 30 AND MAY 14 GREEK BEAUTIES (CONTINUED) If there is a difference, it is that it can be crisper and with a touch more explosive aromatics. Food pairing: First thing is to avoid the temptation to serve Moschofilero too cold. Under 8°C, you loose the aromatics. These dry, aromatic wines are ideal as an aperitif but don’t be afraid to serve them alongside fried squid, seafood pasta and most lighter fish. PHOTO: MAUDE CHAUVIN, PHOTOGRAPHER. FOOD STYLIST: BLAKE MACKAY. ACCESSORIES STYLIST: CÉCILE VINEZ. SAVATIANO Savatiano is the traditional base wine for Retsina. And while many people are mystified by this pine-resin-flavoured wine, the stuff is great when it is made right. These days, however, more and more winemakers are producing Savatiano as a stand-alone white. The grape is grown in many parts of central Greece, but it is in the clay soils of the Mesogeia region of Attica that it dominates. These vineyards have furnished Athenians with wine for thousands of years. Talk about history. This is the wine that Socrates and Plato drank! What does it taste like? Viognier might be a good comparable as the aromatics tend toward pear, peach and other stone fruits. The texture can be a bit oily. The acidity is moderate, just enough to keep the wine fresh. So for those of you who don’t want a high-acid white, it’s ideal. Food pairing: Because of its richer texture, Savatiano can handle a number of richer, though delicately flavoured, plates like fettuccine alfredo, fried squid and shrimp, as well as lighter fish in sauce. XINOMAVRO If Assyrtiko is the star of the white grapes, then a case can be made for Xinomavro as the star of the reds. Indigenous to Macedonia in the northern part of the country, it is perhaps at its most prestigious in the cool-climate region of Naoussa. On the palate, it feels and tastes like a cross between Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. Much like Nebbiolo, the grape of Barolo, Xinomavro has both high acidity and very substantial tannins. While this can make the wines a touch difficult in youth, they age magnificently. Be prepared for a true taste adventure. The wines will tend to show red fruit like cherries, but also look for more herbal characteristics like black olive, oregano and sun-dried tomato. Food pairing: As the tannins can be imposing in younger wines, Xinomavro wines need red meat to offset their drying nature. Try a leg of lamb, oregano and other herbs, as well as sun-dried tomatoes and olives, as that will play nicely with the aromatics of the wine. AGIORGITIKO Agiorgitiko means St. George’s grape, a possible reference to Saint George’s chapel in the region of Nemea. Agiorgitiko is Greece’s second most-planted red grape variety and is the defining grape of Nemea in the Peloponnese. Like many Greek varieties, it has a long history and was said to have been the wine that Hercules drank after slaying the Nemean Lion. Agiorgitiko has a moderate acidity and relatively low tannins, so it is often aged in new oak that adds some tannic bite. In terms of style, it compares with oaked Barbera– lots of red fruit, mostly plum, though with less acidity. Many wines will also show either spicy or herbal notes on the finish. Food pairing: Agiorgitiko’s lower acidity makes it a good match for braised meats, and its fruitiness pairs well with roasted white meat like chicken or pork. Don’t be afraid to use recipes with aromatic spices like cinnamon and cloves. MAY 14 WA 91 GREECE 2020 ALPHA ESTATE, AXIA RED 2010, FLORINA $19.85 12499515, 750 ML, 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 On their estate named after the first letter of the Greek alphabet, owners Latridis and Mavridis demonstrate the full potential and quality of the region’s wines. Give this one an A+. GRAPES: SYRAH, XINOMAVRO AROMAS DRIED FLOWERS, PLUM, BLACK CHERRY, PEPPER ACIDITY – LIVELY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – STRUCTURED WOOD – SUBTLE May 2015 25 CLICK, PURCHASE ENJOY OUR NEW ARRIVALS. FREE IN−STORE DELIVERY* WITH ANY PURCHASE OF $75 OR MORE *Details at SAQ.COM FIND THEM ALL AT SPACE CHÂTEAU DE LANCYRE, ROSÉ PIC SAINT LOUP, COTEAUX DU LANGUEDOC YALUMBA Y SERIES, SANGIOVESE ROSÉ, SOUTH AUSTRALIA CHÂTEAU VIGNELAURE, ROSÉ, CÔTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE WILLM, PINOT NOIR, ROSÉ ALSACE UMANI RONCHI, JORIO ROSÉ, CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO CHÂTEAU DE NAGES, VIEILLES VIGNES ROSÉ, COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES 10263841 11686175 12374149 12521401 12521444 12521461 $16.95 $17.00 $24.70 $17.90 $17.90 $19.95 MARC-ANTOINE AND MICHEL LASNIER LES VERGERS DE LA COLLINE AT A GLANCE The history of the Lasnier family and Les Vergers de la Colline of Sainte-Cécile-de-Milton, dates back five generations. Today, the company’s orchards feature more than 45 varieties of apples, used for both cider production and research. Some 40 employees work there. PHOTO: JEAN-FRANÇOIS LEMIRE/SHOOT STUDIO. When he was 20, Marc-Antoine Lasnier told his father, Michel, that he wanted to make cider. “I felt that ‘bottling’ apples would set us apart from the other orchards.” Sixteen years on, Marc-Antoine has an equal number of ciders to his credit. His latest creation, Milton Star, is delicious all by itself and also makes a very tasty cocktail mix. Michel Lasnier (right) needed a healthy dose of confidence to brave investing millions in his son’s audacious ideas. “He worked his heart out and proved he was right,” says Michel. To which MarcAntoine replies frankly: “The apple is a fresh product. If you don’t sell it in timely fashion, you lose it. I believed that making cider would provide us longevity.” • The bad old days On the quality front, the 1970s were a dark period for Quebec cider. “But I challenge people of my generation to taste our ciders today,” says Michel Lasnier. Les Vergers de la Colline includes a retail store that’s open 10 months of the year. • Advanced techniques As is the case with wine, the quality of a cider is determined by terroir, fruit treatment and the producer’s talent. “Some apple presses can extract up to 80 percent of the juice,” says Marc-Antoine. “But here, we only press up to 65 percent. Our production costs are higher, but our ciders are better!” • A cider for every occasion “Our sparkling ciders make ideal aperitifs,” the younger Lasnier says. “Some still ciders make good companions for fish or pork. But the Milton Star is a crowd-pleaser – it sets the party’s tone.” • Giving the apple its due “The whole point of making cider is to strive to preserve in the bottle as pure a taste of the apple as you can,” explains Marc-Antoine. “I believe in the virtues of apples and am convinced that we can capture their greatness in the glass, the way winemakers do with grapes.” QUEBEC MILTON STAR SPARKLING CIDER $12.80 12437242, 4 X 355 ML, 4.5% ABV APPLE VARIETIES: McINTOSH, SPARTAN WALDORF SALAD AROMAS FRESH APPLE, APPLE BLOSSOM, MELON ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – SWEET BODY – LIGHT PALATE – DELICATE WOOD – UNOAKED Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store. Discover the world of Origine Québec products at the SAQ at www.saq.com/originequebec-en APRIL 30 WA 90 UNITED STATES CHÂTEAU ST. JEAN, FUMÉ BLANC 2013, SONOMA COUNTY $20.25 00897199, 750 ML, 13.6% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 299 Established in 1973, Château St. Jean has been inspired by European tradition to create distinctive wines meant to reflect terroir rather than a specific winemaking style. GRAPE: SAUVIGNON BLANC P. 6 UNITED STATES PORTUGAL $27.65 12485754, 750 ML, 14.3% ABV $14.85 11223592, 750 ML, 14% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 425 Plume is a collaboration between the Zepponi family from Napa Valley and the Stewart Family from renowned producer Quails’ Gate in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. This was most likely the first Portuguese wine to be aged in new oak barrels. It shows off the strong character of Alentejo wines, with a blend from several of its various sub-regions. GRAPE: CHARDONNAY GRAPES: ARAGONEZ, TRINCADEIRA, TOURIGA NACIONAL, CABERNET SAUVIGNON WEST COAST WINE, CHARDONNAY PLUME 2012, NAPA VALLEY BACALHÔA VINHOS, BACALHÔA TINTO DA ÂNFORA 2013, ALENTEJO UNITED STATES 2018 SLEDGEHAMMER 2011, NORTH COAST $18.95 12484567, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 At Sledgehammer wines, everything is done to move away from the more formal side of the wine world, and this is why the recommended pairings with this Zin are grilled meats and… loud music! SOUTH AFRICA 2020 HARTENBERG, CABERNET SAUVIGNON SHIRAZ 2010, STELLENBOSCH $19.95 12485666, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 GRAPE: ZINFANDEL Proximity to the Atlantic Ocean allows the vines of this estate to benefit from a more moderate climate, which lets the grapes maintain a certain balance in ripeness and express great typicity. GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SHIRAZ ASPARAGUS SALAD WITH ALMONDS AND GRAPEFRUIT CLAM CHOWDER BEEF AND PORTOBELLO MUSHROOM BURGER PULLED PORK BURGER EUROPEAN-STYLE SMOKED SAUSAGE SANDWICH AROMAS CITRUS, PAPAYA, GREEN APPLE, HERBAL NOTES ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS PINEAPPLE, PEAR, LINDEN, ACACIA, HONEY, OAK ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS CHERRY, BLACKBERRY, PLUM, FLORAL NOTES, VANILLA ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS DRIED FRUIT, BLACK CHERRY, BAKING SPICE, LICORICE ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS CRÈME DE CASSIS, EUCALYPTUS, SMOKE, OAK ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – RICH PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT May 2015 29 APRIL 30 P. 16 FRANCE P. 15 UNITED STATES 2022 PORTUGAL 2021 P. 5 UNITED STATES 2018 2020 RAYMOND FAMILY CLASSIC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2013, NORTH COAST CARM CASA AGRICOLA ROBOREDO MADEIRA, RESERVA CARM 2011, DOURO $22.25 12502471, 750 ML, 14% ABV $24.30 11241678, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 250 NUMBER OF CASES: 275 $24.75 12487864, 750 ML, 14.9% ABV CARM, an acronym for Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira, is a group of six estates representing a total of 90 hectares under vine led by the Roboredo Madeira family. NUMBER OF CASES: 198 The Dry Creek Valley estate, located near Lake Sonoma, has one of the highest concentrations of old-vine Zinfandels in all of California. GRAPE: PINOT NOIR Since 2009, the Boisset family has been breathing new life and energy into this well-established estate, which was named Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast magazine in 2012. GRAPE: ZINFANDEL GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON GRAPES: TINTA RORIZ, TOURIGA FRANCA, TOURIGA NACIONAL CHICKEN BREASTS STUFFED WITH GOAT CHEESE, BASIL AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES FLANK STEAK WITH RED-WINE SAUCE ROAST BEEF CIABATTA GRILLED LAMB CHOPS WITH ROSEMARY AND RED WINE LAMB BURGER AROMAS STRAWBERRY, RASPBERRY, CHERRY, HUMUS, HERBAL NOTES ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS CHERRY, BLACKCURRANT, DARK CHOCOLATE, VANILLA ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS BLACK CHERRY, THYME, OLIVES, LEATHER, RESIN, OAK ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS PLUM, RIPE STRAWBERRY, PINE TREE, VANILLA ACIDITY – DISCREET AROMAS STRAWBERRY, VIOLETS, DATE, GRAPHITE ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – LIGHT BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – SUBTLE ALBERT BICHOT, SECRET DE FAMILLE 2012, BOURGOGNE $22.00 11153281, 750 ML, 13% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 400 What is the “family secret” that gives the wine its name? It’s that the grapes come from well-located vineyards in prestigious villages like Chambolle-Musigny, Pommard and Nuits Saint Georges. 30 May 2015 WEST COAST WINERY, ZINFANDEL LAKE SONOMA WINERY 2010, DRY CREEK VALLEY UNITED STATES BONNY DOON, A PROPER CLARET 2012, CALIFORNIA $25.25 12495961, 750 ML, 13.2% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 250 One-of-a-kind winemaker Randall Grahm has always claimed he’d rather stay away from Cabernet. And yet, here is his first Claret (an elegant Bordeaux-style blend) since he founded Bonny Doon in 1985. GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, PETIT VERDOT, TANNAT, SYRAH, PETITE SIRAH ICON LEGEND WHITE WINE drink now ROSÉ WINE drink now through the year indicated RED WINE Favourite Cellier Value Picks WINE PROFILE CHART hold until the year indicated SOURCES CITED: Presence and intensity of acidity, body, wood and other elements at the time of tasting. V : Vinous, A. Galloni, S. Tanzer (out of 100) WA : Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100) WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100) The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule. APRIL 30 UNITED STATES 2019 ZACA MESA, Z CUVÉE 2009, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY $25.55 12495928, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 In 1978, this estate became the first to plant Syrah in Santa Barbara County. The experiment was successful, and led them to concentrate on Rhône varieties. GRAPES: GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE, SYRAH UNITED STATES 2020 KUNDE FAMILY ESTATE, ZINFANDEL 2012, SONOMA VALLEY UNITED STATES TRINCHERO, CABERNET SAUVIGNON NAPA CELLARS 2012, NAPA VALLEY P. 10 UNITED STATES 2020 CLINE CELLARS, BIG BREAK 2012, CONTRA COSTA COUNTY $30.25 12484111, 750 ML, 15% ABV UNITED STATES 2022 JOSEPH PHELPS, CABERNET SAUVIGNON INNISFREE 2012, NAPA VALLEY $26.35 12495590, 750 ML, 14.7% ABV $28.30 12484057, 750 ML, 14.4% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 The fifth generation of the Kunde family now leads this pioneering estate from Sonoma, whose first plantings, dating back to 1879, used cuttings imported from Château Margaux and Lafite-Rothschild. Already well-known for their Zinfandel, one of the most popular wines on the Québec market, the winery just created this new cuvée focusing on Napa’s reigning grape variety. The old Zinfandel vines (over 100 years old) from the Big Break vineyard in the Contra Costa region are located near a eucalyptus grove, which infuses the wine with some mentholated notes. GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON GRAPE: ZINFANDEL In the sixties, Joseph Phelps was at the head of one of the biggest construction companies in the United States before he fell in love with Napa and settled there to develop a 150-hectare estate. GRAPE: ZINFANDEL BEEF BROCHETTES WITH PORTOBELLO MUSHROOM 2018 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 $37.50 11419616, 750 ML, 13.5 % ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 350 GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON AROMAS CANDIED FRUIT, BARLEY SUGAR, LICORICE, CONFECTIONERY, FOREST FLOOR ACIDITY – MODERATE BARBECUED RIBS BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH HERB BUTTER CEDAR-PLANKED GRILLED STRIP LOIN FLANK STEAK WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE AROMAS CASSIS, BLACK CHERRY, CINNAMON, THYME, VANILLA ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS CASSIS, HERBAL NOTES, OAK, VANILLA, BROWN SUGAR ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS CHERRY, EUCALYPTUS, CEDAR, VANILLA ACIDITY – DISCREET AROMAS CASSIS, PLUM, LICORICE, BLACK CHERRY, OAK ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – FULL BODY – FULL PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT May 2015 31 Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of the products. Prices are subject to change without notice. MAY 14 P. 24 GREECE FRANCE P. 21 FRANCE FRANCE P. 18 FRANCE $16.45 12484575, 750 ML, 13% ABV $18.35 12500361, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 250 NUMBER OF CASES: 400 $20.45 11232261, 750 ML, 13% ABV $24.65 11231867, 750 ML, 13% ABV $26.75 12376881, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV Located on Mount Aroania and cooled by the winds coming from the Gulf of Corinth, this estate is gaining international recognition for the quality of its wines. A winery to watch. Today, it seems like everyone knows the Vins de Vienne. Created in 1996, this trio of famous vignerons – Yves Cuilleron, Pierre Gaillard and François Villard – has been a leading force in the revival of the Northern Rhône. NUMBER OF CASES: 400 NUMBER OF CASES: 150 NUMBER OF CASES: 180 Located to the west of the Provence region, the Aix-enProvence AOC benefits from the cooling effect of the mistral winds and from limestone-rich soils. Great conditions for terroir-driven rosés. Provence is synonymous with rosé wines. They represent 88 percent of the region’s total production – and 35 percent of all French rosés. You’ll understand why when you taste this exceptional rosé. Who is the redheaded lady (dame rousse) for which this cuvée is named? Like a mordorée, it is in fact a poetic nickname for the woodcock, a bird frequently seen around the estate. GRAPE: SYRAH GRAPES: SYRAH, CABERNET SAUVIGNON GRAPES: GRENACHE, CINSAULT GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, CINSAULT, MOURVÈDRE, BOURBOULENC, CLAIRETTE FRIED CALAMARI FENNEL, SHRIMP AND LOBSTER MEAT SALAD SHRIMP BROCHETTES WITH PROVENCAL HERBS WALLEYE AMANDINE SALMON TARTARE AROMAS PEAR, BANANA, TART CANDY ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS STRAWBERRY, CITRUS, WHITE PEPPER, FENNEL ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS GREEN APPLE, PEAR, BARLEY SUGAR, HERBS ACIDITY – LIVELY AROMAS PEACH, ROSEWATER, LINDEN, MARZIPAN ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS STRAWBERRY, RHUBARB, RASPBERRY, WHITE PEPPER ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE DOMAINE TETRAMYTHOS, RODITIS 2013, PATRAS GRAPE: RODITIS 32 May 2015 VINS DE VIENNE, REMÉAGE ROSÉ DE SYRAH 2014, VIN DE FRANCE DOMAINE LES BÉATES, LES BÉATINES 2014, COTEAUX D’AIX EN PROVENCE DOMAINE GAVOTY, CUVÉE CLARENDON ROSÉ 2013, CÔTES DE PROVENCE DOMAINE DE LA MORDORÉE, LA DAME ROUSSE ROSÉ 2014, TAVEL LUC DALLAIRE FRANÇOIS BEAUREGARD CATHERINE OUIMET These wine advisors were on the tasting committee and helped select the Cellier favourites. MAY 14 WA 94 SPAIN Wine advisor SAQ Sélection Centropolis Wine advisor SAQ Sélection Saint-Jacques Wine advisor SAQ Sélection Marché 440 WA 91 2020 CAPÇANES, MAS DONIS BARRICA 2012, MONTSANT P. 25 GREECE 2020 ALPHA ESTATE, AXIA RED 2010, FLORINA GREECE 2020 DOMAINE TSELEPOS, DRIOPI CLASSIC 2012, NEMEA ITALY 2019 NICOLIS ANGELO E FIGLI, SECCAL RIPASSO 2011, VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO FRANCE DOMAINE OLIVIER PITHON, CUVÉE LAÏS 2012, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON $19.80 12499540, 750 ML, 14% ABV $19.85 12499515, 750 ML, 14% ABV $21.00 10701311, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 400 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 NUMBER OF CASES: 200 Chock full of character, this cuvée was praised by Robert Parker, who even called it a “baby Priorat”. High praise for a modestly priced wine produced just next door in the Montsant appellation. On their estate named after the first letter of the Greek alphabet, owners Latridis and Mavridis demonstrate the full potential and quality of the region’s wines. Give this one an A+. Yannis Tselepos studied oenology in Dijon, and then worked in Burgundy for a few years to hone his skills. He has become a true reference for other Greek winemakers. GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH GRAPES: SYRAH, XINOMAVRO PRIME RIB LAMB SOUVLAKI WITH HERBS RACK OF PORK WITH OLIVES TERIYAKI PORK LOIN PISSALADIÈRE AROMAS RASPBERRY, LEATHER, ANISE, SPICES, CEDAR, CIGAR BOX ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS DRIED FLOWERS, PLUM, BLACK CHERRY, PEPPER ACIDITY – LIVELY AROMAS VIOLETS, RED BERRIES, TOBACCO, OAK ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS DRIED BLACK FRUIT, CHERRY IN EAU-DE-VIE, LICORICE, GAMEY NOTES ACIDITY – DISCREET AROMAS CHERRY, GAMEY NOTES, LEATHER, BLACK OLIVES, THYME ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM BODY – MEDIUM PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – SUBTLE GRAPE: AGIORGITIKO $24.55 11027807, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV $26.20 11925720, 750 ML, 13.6% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 350 NUMBER OF CASES: 126 This wine gets an extra layer of character, as it referments over the estate’s Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella pomace. Supple and smooth, it’s quite the velvety mouthful. Olivier, younger brother to Jo Pithon, a talented Loire winemaker, learned his trade in Bordeaux and Beaujolais before starting his own winemaking business in the hills of Roussillon. GRAPES: CORVINA, RONDINELLA, MOLINARA, CROATINA GRAPES: GRENACHE, CARIGNAN, MOURVÈDRE May 2015 33 MAY 14 WA 93+ WS 90 V 93 FRANCE JEAN FOILLARD 2013, MORGON $27.20 11964788, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 250 Jean Foillard is one of the luminaries of the Morgon cru, in Beaujolais, and a winemaker who prefers to do as little as possible in the cellar to create the purest possible expression of terroir. GRAPE: GAMAY GREECE 2019 DOMAINE THYMIOPOULOS, TERRE ET CIEL 2012, NAOUSSA SPAIN 2018 ALTO MONCAYO, VERATON 2012, CAMPO DE BORJA $31.50 11814368, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV $33.50 11668241, 750 ML, 15.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 200 (6 BT) NUMBER OF CASES: 336 The Thymiopoulos family has been growing grapes for generations, but they’ve only recently started to make their own wines – and doing everything in accordance with biodynamic standards. The 2006 and 2007 vintages of this cuvée, drawn from old vines planted at high altitude to allow for a more balanced ripening, garnered a perfect score from critic Robert Parker. GRAPE: GRENACHE GRAPE: XINOMAVRO FRANCE 2020 CHÂTEAU RAMAGE LA BÂTISSE, CRU BOURGEOIS SUPÉRIEUR 2009, HAUT MÉDOC P. 17 SPAIN 2025 COMPAÑIA VINICOLA DEL NORTE DE ESPAÑA, IMPERIAL GRAN RESERVA RIOJA 2007, RIOJA $33.75 00863837, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV $49.25 12203796, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV NUMBER OF CASES: 300 NUMBER OF CASES: 396 (6 BT) Located near Pauillac, this estate has delivered on the 2009 vintage with a classically styled wine that extols the qualities of this sunny vintage, without falling into overripeness and excess. No effort is spared to maintain this cuvée’s reputation for quality. After all, its 2004 did win the Wine Spectator Wine of the Year! A powerful yet elegant wine, it’s best showcased during a good meal. GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT GRAPES: TEMPRANILLO, GRACIANO CHARCUTERIES BEEF TARTARE BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH BLUE-CHEESE BUTTER VENISON STEAK PAELLA WITH RABBIT AND CHORIZO AROMAS STRAWBERRY, PEONY, LAUREL, MINERAL NOTES ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS BLUEBERRY, ANISE, GREEN OLIVES, TRUFFLE, THYME, SMOKE ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS BLACK CHERRY, BLACKBERRY, CUSTARD, OAK ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS RED FRUIT, RED PEPPER, GRAPHITE, CIGAR BOX ACIDITY – MODERATE AROMAS CHERRY, WILD STRAWBERRY, SPICE, FOREST FLOOR, VANILLA, TOBACCO ACIDITY – MODERATE SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY SUGAR LEVEL – DRY BODY – LIGHT BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL BODY – MEDIUM BODY – FULL PALATE – DELICATE PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – GENEROUS PALATE – STRUCTURED WOOD – UNOAKED WOOD – SUBTLE WOOD – PRONOUNCED WOOD – EVIDENT WOOD – EVIDENT 34 May 2015 A PRIDE WE SHARE Born from passion and pride. It’s the savoir faire of producers, their craft and their land. It’s heart and soul, it’s the sun, wind, snow. It’s our wine, our meads, our ciders, our maple products and our berry liqueurs. It’s who we are, our diversity, our dreams. Born from our hunger to explore, to encourage and share this place our home, Quebec. WINE CIDER MAPLE BERRIES MEAD AVA I L A B L E AT
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