©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd easy-to-use 4 sections How to Use This Book PLAN YOUR TRIP Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings: Your planning tool kit 1 Sights r Beaches 2 Activities C Courses T Tours 4 Sleeping 5 Eating 6 Drinking 3 Entertainment 7 Shopping & z Festivals Events 8 & Transport Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip. Watarrka Alice (Kings Canyon) • # Springs National Park É É NORTHERN TERRITORY QUEENSLAND INERARIES PL AN YOUR TRIP I T É É INERARIES PL AN YOUR TRIP I T WESTERN AUSTRALIA Coober # Pedy • Flinders Ranges National Park É SOUTH AUSTRALIA ÷ # # Woomera • É É É NEW SOUTH WALES # Barossa Clare Valley • • # Valley # Adelaide • Wine Region • # McLaren Vale Kangaroo • # ÷ # Island Coorong Coonawarra National Park Wine Region VICTORIA É ACT • # # Great Ocean • Road 4 S WEEK É 1 ÷ # © Kata Tjuta • #• # Uluru 29 STEVE PARISH / CORBISH 28 Adelaide to Alice Springs Top: Flinders Ranges National Park (p131) Bottom: Outdoor dining, Rundle St, Adelaide KYLIE MCLAUGHLIN Great Ocean Road conveniently to SA from Victoria, super-scenic here explore the dunes If you’re hoofing it over Wine Region (p104). From Vale spits you out near the CoonawarraPark (p99), sip your way through McLaren or roll National Island (p90) for a few days, and lagoons of Coorong either hop over to Kangaroo Central Market for lunch, and a to Wine Region (p82), then (p54). Don’t miss a trip Art Galley into festival-frenzied Adelaide cool off inside the estimable on Rundle St. If it’s hot, Glenelg. night eating and drinking for a beachy swim at palindromic (p112; of SA, or hop on the tram old-school Barossa Valley north of Adelaide is the its worldMore wine! About an hour Clare Valley (p117) with hours north is the boutiquey big reds); and about two towns. B&Bs and old stone mining the class riesling, cottagey Park (p131) jags up from Flinders Ranges National culture, the Flinders – the Continuing north, raggedy mirage. Rich in indigenous etch itself into your memory. semi-desert like a rust-coloured (Wilpena Pound) – will Ikara Woomera amazing the is heart of which spooky rocket-testing town journey north to the mildly 139). Hit the Stuart Hwy and (p dugouts of Coober Pedy (p139) and the opal-tinged The Lasseter and cross into the NT. enter the Simpson Desert 227) and the mesmerising Trucking north, you’ll eye-popping Uluru (p there’s but weighty, to shows, you TV takes Hwy turn-off the photos and the formations. You’ve seen Kata Tjuta (p228) rock an Uluru sunset firsthand. (Kings nothing quite like seeing vertigo-inducing Watarrka into Uluru, the spectacular, About 300km north of travellers with scenic walks Alice (p220) rewards intrepid oasis of Canyon) National Park Finish up in the desert has plenty this gaping desert chasm. and around the rim of MacDonnell Ranges. Alice heart of the steep-sided some classy Springs (p202), in the Alice Springs Desert Park, leg of your few days: the excellent to keep you busy for a you gear-up for the next in a swimming pool as flight if internal an or Darwin, restaurants or just a soak to drive or Ghan train ride journey (the Stuart Hwy you’re time-poor). / GETTY IMAGES © ON THE ROAD 1 2 Book your travels Find a flight Talk to other travellers Looking for ideas and advice on a specific destination? Want to share your experiences with the most active travel community? Then head to Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s forum, where you’ll find new posts every 12 seconds. Find the right flight through our online booking service. Reserve a room Visit our website to book author-reviewed accommodation for any price range. Book activities Discover and book amazing experiences online for destinations around the globe. Information All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Your complete guide Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps and insider tips. Go further with Lonely Planet lonelyplanet.com/destinations 3 lonelyplanet.com/thorntree Check out our full range of guides Travelling somewhere somewhe ere else? Staying Stay ying longer in a particular yin particula place? Check out our full range of guides, writ tten and researched by b expert authors to give e you an amazing travel t written experience. Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. 49 Peninsula cultural Flinders Ranges, Yorke Land (p120), and tours run by Adjahdura a province on Tandanya National Aboriginal South Australia was declared first British Adelaide’s Also in Adelaide is the Cultural Institute (p57). Gallery 28 December 1836, when Bay (current- the Australian Aboriginal Cultures colonists landed at Holdfast (p55). governor, Captain in the South Australian Museum day Glenelg). The first language is the state capital SA’s best-known Aboriginal John Hindmarsh, named Pitjantjara), of the British mon- Pitjantjatjara (also known as Adelaide, after the wife Ananguthe eastern states which is spoken throughout the arch, William IV. While northern of convict society, Pitjantjarjara Aboriginal Lands of struggled with the stigma Australian citizens Ж a fact to SA, down almost to the Great AdSA’s colonists were free will happily Bight. The traditional language of the which many South Australians Kaurna-derived elaide area is Kaurna. Many draw your attention. around the city: a on survived colony have the names place The founders based Onkaparideal of social engi- Aldinga comes from Ngultingga, utopian 19th-century and Noarat set prices by the inga from Ngangkiparringga, neering. Land was sold Adelaide Hills help establish mainly lunga from Nurlungga. The British government to couples; the concept region is Peramangk country. young, skilled married country, is a of men and women, The Coorong, in Ngarrindjeri pans sepawas that equal numbers political persecution, complex series of dunes and salt Youngfree from religious and the sea by the long, thin new order. would create an egalitarian 800 German rated from takes its name from husband Peninsula. It Between 1838 and 1841, persecuted Lu- the Ngarrindjeri word kurangh, meaning farmers and artisans (many Ngarrindjeri, arrived and settled ‘long neck’. According to the cretherans from Prussia) Hills Ж now the their Dreaming ancestor, Ngurundjeri, Hahndorf in the Adelaide River. village in the state. ated the Coorong and the Murray a natubest preserved German the next decade, iconic Ikara (Wilpena Pound), Park, over The followed more Many with them Ж SA’s fa- ral basin in Flinders Ranges National who bringing vine cuttings people, to take root. is sacred to the Adnyamathanha than 15,000 mous vineyards began progress was in the area for more The young colony’s early funds saved have lived two akurra Dreaming stories tell of slow Ж only British governmentbecame self- years. around Ikara but it (giant snakes) who coiled a it from bankruptcy Ж and self- during an initiation ceremony, creating supporting by the mid-1840s the successful whirlwind and devouring the participants. governing by 1856. Following feast they by local explorers, The snakes were so full after their to die, crossing of the continent lay the Overland Tel- couldn’t move, and willed themselves SA won the contract to to Darwin, con- thus creating the landmark. egraph from Port Augusta first state to grant world by telegram In 1966, SA became the In the necting Australia to the Following a people title to their land. (1872) and, later, telephone. century, the Aboriginal land west of the Stu19th early 1980s most of the Perth long recession in the late to railway first to introduce art Hwy and north of the government became the ownership. which South Austral- was transferred to Aboriginal income tax Ж a fact to occur, howyour attention… Cultural clashes still sometimes culians are hesitant to draw progressive ever, exemplified by the politically and SA has maintained its socially controlegalised in 1876; turally divisive Hindmarsh Bridge creed: trade unions were Aboriginal to stand for parlia- versy in the 1990s, which pitted women were permitted state was one of the beliefs against development. ment in 1894; and the to give women the first places in the world in Australia to out- National Parks vote, and the first state discrimination, legal- Around 22% of SA’s land area is under some law racial and gender management, gay sex. form of official conservation ise abortion and decriminalise recreation parks, including national parks, wildlife reserves. Indigenous Adelaide conservation parks and Water The Department of Environment, & South Australia www.environ opportunities to & Natural Resources (DEWNR; SA offers up some great state’s conservacultures and beliefs. ment.sa.gov.au) manages the and camping learn about Aboriginal the indigenous-run tion areas and sells park passes Some of the best include of Adelaide and the Bookabee Tours (p53) History Why Go? (SA). in relaxed South Australia Escape the east-coast frenzy the heat by driest continent, SA beats The driest state on the fine landscapes, fine festivals, celebrating life’s finer things: other three) fine wine. the fine food and (…OK, forget gracious city offering worldAdelaide is a chilled-out, scene. pubs and a hedonistic arts Clare class festivals, restaurants, Vale and the Barossa and are A day trip away, McLaren wine regions. Further afield Valleys are long-established the Murray Limestone Coast, and Isthe watery wilds of the towards the sea. Kangaroo River, curling Mississippi-like seafood await just offshore. off land’s wildlife, forests and and Eyre Peninsula are To the west, Yorke Peninsula Wheelbeachy, slow-paced detours. the beaten track: both fields give way to arid wheat Ranges, north, ing into the Flinders ochre-coloured peaks. Further Pedy cattle stations beneath such as Woomera and Coober eccentric outback towns desert haze. emerge from the dead-flat Adelaide....................... 54 Adelaide Hills............... 78 Fleurieu Peninsula ...... 82 Kangaroo Island ..........90 Limestone Coast ......... 99 Murray River .............. 106 Barossa Valley ............ 112 Clare Valley ................. 117 Yorke Peninsula ......... 120 Eyre Peninsula ............124 Flinders Ranges.......... 131 Outback ......................138 Off The Beaten Track ¨ Port Lincoln (p126) When to Go 143) ¨ Oodnadatta Track (p ¨ Melrose (p132) Rainfall inches/mm Adelaide 20/500 °C/°F Temp 40/104 ¨ Burra (p122) 16/400 12/300 30/86 8/200 20/68 4/100 Best Places to Stay 10/50 ¨ Port Elliot Beach House YHA (p88) ¨ Stirling Hotel (p81) ¨ Wilpena Pound Resort (p136) ¨ Marion Bay Motel (p 123) ) ¨ Largs Pier Hotel (p65 0/32 0 J F M Feb–Mar Adelaide’s festival season hits its straps: Fringe and WOMADelaide are highlights. A M J J A S Apr–May Low autumn sunsets and russet-red grapevines: harvest is in the air. O N D Sep Football finals time: yell yourself silly in the stands, beer and pie in hand(s). Y AUSTR ALIA H I S TO R ADEL AIDE & SOUTH 2 Adelaide & South Australia Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. COUNTRY COUNT COUN T TRY &R REGIONAL RE REG GIONAL GION G AL Th ffreedom The d you need d to t plan the perfect trip. These symbols give vital information for each listing: Must-visit recommendation UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see. 2 37 2 36 frontier Darwin, civilised Adelaide to collides of central Australia, from indigenous heritage In many ways, the history Australian history. Far-reaching intertwine... is a distillation of a broader fall, resources and politics settlements rise and force. with European ambitions, has proved an indomitable the harsh environment Presiding over it all, For a timely account of central Austral- ian indigenous history, check out the SBS TV series First Australians (2008; www.sbs. com.au/firstaus tralians), or the accompanying book, edited by Rachel Perkins and Marcia Langton. AbAboriginal Settlement 60,000 years ago, when Australia began around Human contact with what is now Indonesia across the straits from longest continuous original people journeyed – the beginning of the world’s and Papua New Guinea populated much of cultural history. years, Aboriginal people Aboriginal relics Within a few thousand (SA), the earliest known Australia. In South Australia dated at 43,000 years – around the same Olary, are rock carvings near in northern Spain. In the Cave of El Castillo era as the paintings in (NT), the oldest rock-art the Northern Territory Kakadu National Park in Land, evidence sugfurther east in Arnhem sites date back 20,000 years; produced as far back as 60,000 years ago. being gests that rock art was about 24,000 years ago. significance, songs Central Australia was occupied goods, items of spiritual Aboriginal peoples traded using routes that folAustralia and beyond, complex system of and dances across central from the Dreaming, the spirituality. An intilowed the paths of ancestors that defines indigenous country, culture and beliefs behaviour ensured that plant ecology and animal mate understanding of hostile deserts were ocEven central Australia’s rare. were shortages food wells. Firestick farmto scattered permanent cupied year-round, thanks north of the deserts, areas to the south and ing was practised in forested grass to encourage new undergrowth and dead involving the burning of bushfires. and reduce the threat of growth, to attract game Early Contact He) may have been the Admiral Cheng Ho (Zheng reached Timor in The Chinese eunuch to northern Australia. He first non-Aboriginal visitor BC AD 1627 1836 60,000 The Province of South captain Francois Experts say that Dutch is proclaimed. Thijssen, aboard the Australia Aboriginal people setThe Àrst ocial settleGulden Zeepaard, is the tled in Australia around ment at Kingscote on Àrst European to spy this time. Evidence Island is soon the coast of SA. The Kangaroo suggests the oldest replaced by Adelaide, French follow in the rock-art sites in the NT on the advice of Colonel 1700s, the British in the William Light. are 60,000 years old; 1800s. those in SA date from 43,000 years. to Australia. In 1879, a suggest he also made it found lodged in the the 15th century, and some Chinese god Shao Lao was small, carved figure of the the pro-Zheng camp Darwin. That’s the clincher, (1368–1644). roots of a banyan tree in dates from the Ming Dynasty the first Eusays: the carving apparently that the Portuguese were during the 16th There’s evidence to suggest northern coast, sometime ropeans to sight Australia’s the Dutch. Famed Dutch navigator Abel by century, followed promptly to the Kimberley in coast, from Cape York Tasman charted the north traders from Western Australia, in 1664. to the north were Macassan up seasonal Other 17th-century visitors who set Sulawesi in Indonesia), the island of Celebes (today’s cucumber). Interracial relationships were (sea to Celebes to live. camps to gather trepang Aboriginal people journeying the first Eurocommon, with some local made ship Gulden Zeepaard Down south, the Dutch ships Recherche and French The 1627. in coast pean sighting of the SA explorer on the scene 1792, while the first British L’Esperance followed in Englishman Matthew Grant in 1800. In 1802 Gulfs and Kangawas Lieutenant James Bay, Spencer and St Vincent Flinders charted Fowlers Investigator. the ship his on roo Island Colonel William Light, celebrated planner of Adelaide, died from tuberculosis in 1839, aged 54. Dogged by criticism and character slurs, he passed away before his vision for the city could fully be appreciated. N S M OV E I N HISTORY E U R O P E A 3 History In Europeans Move Sydney and fell into Sturt headed inland from (in today’s In 1829 Captain Charles downstream to Lake Alexandrina Society to the Murray River, floating inspired the National Colonisationfounded on SA). His glowing reports South Australian colony propose a utopian, self-supporting convict-based grants. land sales, rather than planned immigration with Australian Colonisation then passed the South The British Parliament established entirely by the only Australian colony Act in 1834, making SA happily highlight). most South Australians at Kingscote on free colonists (a distinction was established in 1836 The first official settlement surveyor-general Colonel William Light colonial Kangaroo Island, before WHAT LIES BENEATH Darwin City Waterfront development, for the billion-dollar Darwin peppered with In 2005, making way bombs. The harbour was for unexploded Japanese Some e՚iHarbour was dredged damaging many more. sinking eight ships and 60kg bombs during WWII, the bottom of the harbour. bombs lying latent at in detected 230 metal chunks mates placed 160 unexploded nervous hands, scans fuse, With the developers wringing up little more than a brass were called in, but turned bombs, but we the mud. Disposal experts ship MV Neptuna. No remnants of the sunken a Chinese jug and some poking around in the sludge… sugge՚ you don’t go 1862 John McDouall Stuart makes the Àrst south– north crossing of the continent from SA into the NT, the highlight of his many epic explorations. 1869 After three other NT colonies all fail to take hold, Palmerston (renamed Darwin in 1911) is established by George Goyder, South Australia’s SurveyorGeneral. 1894 South Australian women are the Àrst in the British Empire permitted to vote, and the Àrst in the world eligible to stand for parliament. 1901 With the federation of the disparate Australian colonies, South Australia becomes a state of the Commonwealth of Australia. No payment required % Telephone number POCKET POCK ET E English-language menu h Opening hours c Family-friendly p Parking # Pet-friendly n Nonsmoking g Bus a Air-conditioning f Ferry i Internet access j Tram W Wi-fi access d Train 4 EBOOKS Perfect for a quick visit. shop.lonelyplanet.com Sustainable or green recommendation Get more from your trip DISCOVER DISC OVER Full-colour F ll l images i and top itineraries. The same great content with added interactivity. shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks Discover a world of travel Fire the imagination of younger travellers and get inspired to see even more of the world. s Swimming pool SURVIVAL GUIDE Your at-a-glance reference Vital practical information for a smooth trip. Top summer (the Wet in the – End) is the low season much prices can drop by as of as 30%. Book accommoAs well as the usual slew parks dation in advance in peak hotels, motels, caravan periods. and youth hostels, central truly Australia offers some the B&Bs Aussie ways to spend privacy The atmosphere and night. Roll out your swag top. park of B&Bs can be hard to under the desert stars, Most B&Bs are ‘self-catering’, your campervan at a remote shirazmeaning breakfast provisions cattle station, dream cook. plush are provided for you to coloured dreams in a to a Rates are typically $100 wine region B&B or blow climb $180, though they can small fortune on a luxury higher. ‘tent’ with views of Uluru. The South Australian South Seasons In southern Tourist Commission (SATC) peak Australia (SA), prices publishes a B&B booklet. the during summer (December Online resources include to February) and school following: and public holidays. Outside and ¨ www.babs.com.au these times discounts be lower walk-in rates can ¨ www.australianbedand season found. Winter is peak breakfast.com.au and in the Flinders Ranges ¨ www.ozbedandbreakfast. outback areas of northern com SA. In the Northern Territory Dry) ¨ www.bandbfsa.com.au (NT) peak season (the plus is June to September, Camping school and public holidays. to Bush camping at remote April to May and October is shoul- sites or in national parks November are quieter and der seasons up north, Accommodation SLEEPING PRICE RANGES double price ranges refer to a In this book the following otherwise in high season. Unless room with bathroom camp site prices are for indicated, unpowered/powered two people. less than $100 $ $100 to $200 $$ $$$ more than $200 a highlight of any central desert, Australian trip. In the where rain and mosquitoes you are often not an issue, – just don’t even need a tent slip into a swag. Costs Payment is often made into honesty boxes per(around $7 to $15 per son per night). Facilities There are plenty out of free camping places here, including roadside parks rest areas. In national percamping is usually only areas, mitted in designated where facilities can range simple from a fireplace and and pit toilet to hot showers free gas barbecues. Caravan Parks Costs Central Australia’s caravan parks are excellent $20 to value, charging from $30 for two people camping, slightly more for a powered cabins site. Most have basic (from with shared facilities around $60) and en-suite cabins with cooking facilities ahead ($80 to $140). Book cabins for powered sites and in peak season. have Facilities Most parks a camp kitchen, laundry, or barbecues and a shop kiosk, and all offer toilets gods and hot showers. If the even might are smiling there be a swimming pool. Farm & Station Stays For a true country experience, stay on a farm or working cattle station. ONLINE BOOK YOUR STAY reviews by Lonely Planet For more accommodation /hotels.lonelyplanet.com. authors, check out http:/ reviews, as well as recommenYou’ll Ànd independent can to ՚ay. Be՚ of all, you dations on the be՚ places book online. Many cheap, central options. boom standards and enticements pubs were built during the such as free breakfasts times, so they’re often and courtesy buses. Places largest, most extravagant ¨ www.farmstaycamping range from rundown pubs buildings in town. australia.com.au trying to fill empty rooms, Costs Pub singles/doubles start to converted motels where ¨ www.stayz.com.au/farm with shared facilities TV if you dorm units have a fridge, -accommodation around $40/60, more mimic and bathroom. Prices ¨ www.bandbfsa.com.au want a private bathroom. recepthose in the larger hostel Few have a separate ¨ www.frabs.com.au the organisations. tion area – just ask at bar. Ho՚els Motels have Hostels are a highly social Facilities Some pubs For comfortable midrange the are and low-cost fixture of been restored as heritage accommodation, motels central Australian accommo- the way to go. They proliferbuildings, but generally dation scene. rooms remain small and and smaller costs ate in cities old fashioned, with an Costs A dormitory bed towns, and many outback to the motel amble down the hall around $22 to $30, and roadhouses also have light bathroom. If you’re a most also have comfortable rooms out the back. a private rooms from around sleeper, avoid booking at least Costs Expect to pay be en $60 ($70 to $90 with up to room above the bar, and $90 for a double and don’t suite). aware that pub rooms $150 for more upmarket always have air-con. Facilities Most hostels places. have kitchens with fridges, Facilities The average and Rental microwaves stoves, motel is a modern (but Accommodation cooking utensils, communal affair anonymous) low-rise and areas with TV, a laundry, rooms Serviced apartments with parking and tidy motels tea/ internet access (including holiday flats resemble that have a bathroom, wi-fi), travellers’ noticebut usually contain cooking making facilities, TV, coffee for value boards and tour-booking facilities – good fridge telephone, air-con, a of and, services. longer stays. This kind humming in the corner a accommodation is usually if the gods are smiling, HOSTEL ORGANISATIONS found in beachy holiday swimming pool. servThere are several Australiaareas, while you’ll find wide backpacker organisaiced apartments in Darwin around Hotels are tions that run hostels and Adelaide. In some Fancy hotels and resorts you limited the country (Base, Nomads holiday accommodation all around SA but are etc), but in central Australia, provide your own sheets to Darwin, Alice Springs, and bedding; others are fully your best bet is the everand Canyon Kings Yulara, reliable YHA (%08-8981 equipped. Kakadu in the NT. Most chain, and 6344; www.yha.com.au) have fabulous facilities in SA which runs 11 hostels locations, but more than are and the NT. A Hostelling Customs a few five-star places in International membership clinical and corporate Regulations rack costs $42/80 for one/two you atmosphere. Although When entering Australia years, slightly less if you’re in rates are high, discounts can bring most articles rarely younger than 26. and deals mean you’ll cusfree of duty, provided peak for pay full price except in toms is satisfied they’re INDEPENDENT HOSTELS you’ll season. personal use and that Central Australia (parbe taking them with you ticularly SA) has numerous Pubs compubs when you leave. Duty-free independent hostels, For the budget traveller, per-adult quotas: are petition for the backpacker (‘hotels’ that serve beer) high fairly dollar prompting central-australia-6-cover.indd 2 ISBN 978-1-74179-773-2 NS S TO M S R EG U L AT I O DIRECTORY A–Z C U 4 Directory A–Z Some let you kick back a and watch workers raise in sweat; others rope you Most to day-to-day chores. comaccommodation is very the fortable – B&B-style in on main homestead (dinner request), or in self-contained also cottages. Some farms provide budget outbuildings Online, or shearers’ quarters. see the following: Inspirational travel photography and amazing ways to discover even more of the world. For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. 26 3 262 TRAVEL BOOKS v Vegetarian selection 6TH EDITION Published Jun 2013 First Published Sep 1996 shop.lonelyplanet.com/pictorials-and-gifts USA $24.99 UK £15.99 LONELY PLANET TRAVELLER Go online to subscribe to this award-winning magazine made for anyone who loves to travel. lonelyplanet.com/magazine STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact 52499 9 781741 797732 NOT-FOR-PARENTS Our Not-For-Parents series is made for children who are curious about the world. Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests. AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 twitter.com/ lonelyplanet USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607 %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 facebook.com/ lonelyplanet UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ %020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112 lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter 14/03/2013 11:31:09 AM Central Australia Adelaide to Darwin Darwin to Uluru (p145) Adelaide & South Australia (p48) THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Charles Rawlings-Way, Meg Worby, Lindsay Brown PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Central Australia . . . . . . . . 4 Central Australia Map. . . . 6 Central Australia’s Top 12 8 Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 16 First Time: The Red Centre. . . . . . . . . 18 If You Like.... . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Month by Month. . . . . . . . 24 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Your Outback Trip. . . . . . . 31 South Australian Wine & Food . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Travel with Children. . . . . 43 Regions at a Glance. . . . . 45 BELINDA WRIGHT / GETTY IMAGES © FRILL-NECKED LIZARD DAVID WALL / GETTY IMAGES © STANDLEY CHASM P218 ON THE ROAD ADELAIDE & SOUTH AUSTRALIA. . . . . . . . . 48 Adelaide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Adelaide Hills . . . . . . . . . . 78 Hahndorf. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Stirling Area . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Oakbank & Woodside . . . . . 81 Gumeracha,. Birdwood & Lobethal. . . . . . 81 Fleurieu Peninsula. . . . . . 82 McLaren Vale . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Willunga. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Gulf St Vincent Beaches. . 85 Victor Harbor . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Port Elliot. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Goolwa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Kangaroo Island. . . . . . . . 90 Penneshaw &. Dudley Peninsula. . . . . . . . 93 American River. . . . . . . . . . 94 Kingscote. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 North Coast Road . . . . . . . 96 South Coast Road . . . . . . . . 97 Flinders Chase. National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Limestone Coast . . . . . . . 99 Coorong National Park. . . 99 Robe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Beachport. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Mount Gambier . . . . . . . . . 102 Penola & the Coonawarra Wine Region . . . . . . . . . . 104 Naracoorte Caves National Park . . . . . . . . . 105 Murray River. . . . . . . . . . 106 Murray Bridge. . . . . . . . . . . 107 Mannum to Waikerie. . . . . 107 Barmera & Around. . . . . . . 108 Loxton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Berri. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Renmark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Barossa Valley. . . . . . . . . 112 Tanunda. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Nuriootpa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Angaston. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Clare Valley. . . . . . . . . . . 117 Auburn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Mintaro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Clare. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Yorke Peninsula . . . . . . . 120 West Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 East Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 South Coast &. Innes National Park. . . . . . 123 Eyre Peninsula & the West Coast. . . . . . . . 124 Port Augusta. . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Whyalla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Port Lincoln. . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Port Lincoln. to Streaky Bay . . . . . . . . . . 127 Streaky Bay. . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Ceduna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Ceduna to the Western Australian Border. . . . . . . . 130 Flinders Ranges . . . . . . . 131 Southern. Ranges Towns. . . . . . . . . . . 131 Mt Remarkable . National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Quorn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Hawker. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Flinders Ranges. National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Blinman & Parachilna. . . . 137 Leigh Creek & Copley . . . . 137 Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park. . . . 138 Arkaroola. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Outback. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Woomera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Woomera to. Coober Pedy. . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Coober Pedy. . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Contents UNDERSTAND Coober Pedy to Marla. . . . 142 Oodnadatta Track. . . . . . . . 143 Oodnadatta to. William Creek. . . . . . . . . . . 143 Coward Springs to. Marree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Birdsville Track. . . . . . . . . . 144 Strzelecki Track . . . . . . . . . 144 Innamincka. . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 DARWIN TO ULURU . . . . . . . . . 145 Central Australia Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Aboriginal Australia. . . . 243 Indigenous Visual Arts. . . . . . . . . . . . 248 The Outback Environment. . . . . . . . . . 255 SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A–Z. . . . . . . . . 262 Transport. . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 294 SPECIAL FEATURES First Time: the Red Centre. . . . . . . . . 18 19 Money First Time: The Red Centre For more information, see Survival Guide (p262) Checklist South Australian Wine & Food. . . . . . . . . . . 39 Indigenous Visual Art . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Make sure your passport is valid for at least six months past your arrival date. Check the airline baggage restrictions. Inform your debit/credit card company. Arrange for appropriate travel insurance (p267 ). Check if you can use your mobile/cell phone (p270). What to Pack Sturdy walking shoes – there are many excellent walks, long and short. Warm clothes – the desert nights are surprisingly cold in winter. Hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. Water bottle. Australian electrical adapter. Top Tips for Your Trip On long drives don’t forget to stop the car regularly to reboot your brain. Outside the confines of the car you’ll find revitalizing fresh air and some of Australia’s friendliest characters to meet and greet. Avoid driving at night. The empty landscape teems with carwrecking kangaroos at night, while cattle find the sun-warmed roads a fine place to rest on a cold desert night. What to Wear It will be of no surprise to learn that the theme is casual; however, it is not a free-for-all and many dining and entertainment venues will require covered shoes or sandals (no flip-flops or singlets). The central deserts are very cold in winter, with sub-zero temperatures at night. As soon as the sun sets winter woolies are needed. Sensible and stylish under the outback sun is the broad-brimmed hat and, if you are travelling in summer, bring swimwear to cool off in the waterholes and swimming pools. Sleeping ATMs are mostly restricted to the big centres and tourist hot-spots, however there are several ATMs in roadhouses along the Stuart Hwy. Most ATMs accept cards issued by other banks and are linked to international networks. Most businesses have Eftpos (Electronic Funds Transfer at Point of Sale) facilities for your credit and debit card. American Express and Diners Club credit cards are not as widely accepted as Mastercard and Visa and will often incur a greater fee. For more information, see p268. Bargaining Gentle haggling is fairly common in weekend markets, second-hand shops and often when purchasing arts and crafts from the artist. It’s common practice to ask for a discount on expensive items when paying cash (not that you are guaranteed to get one). In most other instances you are expected to pay the stated price. During the peak season (June to August) it is best to book accommodation to avoid disappointment. See p262 for more accommodation information. Tipping Roadhouses One-stop shops along the highways where you can fuel up and get a meal, a drink, and a bed. Standards range from basic dongas with share facilities to modern motel rooms. Campsites are also usually available. Restaurants For excellent table service tip 5% to 10% Caravan Parks Most caravan parks have cabins in addition to the caravan and camping sites. The best also have swimming pools, licensed restaurants and camp kitchens. Hostels Only found in Alice Springs, hostels tend to be highly social affairs ideal for young travellers looking to meet others and find work. Hotels & Motels At the tourist hotspots (Yulara, Alice Springs, Kings Canyon) you will find quality four-star hotels. Pub accommodation is usually very basic and motels are typically clean, convenient and conventional. Hotels Not usually expected Taxis Not expected, but the drivers will appreciate you rounding up the fare Standley Chasm (p218;) Etiquette Greetings Usually a simple ‘G’day’ or ‘Howzitgoin?’ suffices. Shake hands with men or women when meeting for the first time. Australian’s expect a firm handshake with eye contact. However, when visiting an Aboriginal community this can be seen as overbearing. Here, a soft clasp with little arm movement, and virtually no eye contact can be expected. The best advice is to take it as it comes and respond in like manner. Shout Australians like to take it in turn to buy (‘shout’) a round of drinks for the group and everyone is expected to take part. Alcohol Check whether alcohol rules apply when visiting a community. You may be breaking the law even with unopened bottles in your vehicle. Eating Restaurants The Centre has a small selection of fine-dining restaurants found within the better hotels in Alice Springs and Yulara. Here you will get the chance to sample bush herbs and marsupial meat in addition to more familiar European fare. Also, Alice Springs has a handful of Asian restaurants. Roadhouses More of a necessity than a recommendation, roadhouse fare (think burgers and steaks) suffers from the tyranny of distance, whereby fresh ingredients and reliable cooks are hard to source. Nevertheless, there are some pearls. PL AN YOUR TRIP F I R S T T I M E : T H E R E D C E N T R E Your Outback Trip . . . . . . 31 18 DAVID WALL PHOTO / GETTY IMAGES © Darwin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Around Darwin . . . . . . . . 171 Mandorah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Tiwi Islands. . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Arnhem Highway. . . . . . . . 173 Mary River Region. . . . . . . 174 Stuart Highway. to Litchfield. National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Litchfield. National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Adelaide. River to Katherine. . . . . . . 177 Kakadu & Arnhem Land. . . . . . . . . . 179 Kakadu National Park. . . . 179 Arnhem Land . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Katherine to Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . . 188 Katherine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Around Katherine. . . . . . . . 193 Katherine to. Western Australia. . . . . . . . 195 Mataranka &. Elsey National Park. . . . . . 197 Barkly Tableland &. Gulf Country. . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Mataranka to. Tennant Creek. . . . . . . . . . 199 Tennant Creek. . . . . . . . . . 199 Tennant Creek to. Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . . . . 201 The Tanami Road. . . . . . . 202 Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . 202 MacDonnell Ranges. . . . 216 East MacDonnell. Ranges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 West MacDonnell. Ranges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Red Centre Way (Mereenie Loop). . . . . . . 219 Larapinta Drive. . . . . . . . . . 219 Mereenie Loop Road. . . . 220 Kings Canyon &. Watarrka National Park. . 220 South of Alice Springs. . . . . . . . . . 221 Old South Road . . . . . . . . . 221 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. . . . 223 Uluru (Ayers Rock) . . . . . 227 Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) . . 228 Heading West . . . . . . . . . . 228 Yulara. (Ayers Rock Resort). . . . . 228 On the Road Darwin to Uluru (p145) Adelaide & South Australia (p48) Stu e # 0 0 200 km 100 miles 125°E # ÷ 3 a rt 4 4 44 44 4 4 3 33 33 3 3333 3 33 33 33 33 33 33 3 TIMOR SEA 3 3 33 3 3 130°E 140°E 145°E 135°E Cape Wessel York Tiwi Islands Melville Van ARAFURA Islands Island Diemen Bathurst SEA # \ Gunbalanya Island Nguiu Gulf \ Maningrida (Oenpelli) # # \ Nhulunbuy ELEVATION Mary River Darwin Mindil Beach # \ ^ # National Park Arnhem Gove Sunset Market # \ Jabiru # ÷ 1500m Peninsula Land # Kakadu ÷ Batchelor Fab food and music (p168) # \ National Park 1000m Litchfield ÷ \ Adelaide River ## 750m National Park Kakadu National Park # \ Hayes Creek Cape 500m Astonishing natural and \ \ Daly # Londonderry Nitmiluk # \ Alyangula Joseph Pine # 250m cultural landscapes (p179) Gorge) Numbulwar River # (Katherine ÷ Bonaparte Creek # \ National Park 0 Gulf Groote \ # \ Barunga Katherine # Gulf of Eylandt # \ Ngukurr # \ Carpentaria Gregory Mataranka Keep River Timber National ÷ # # ÷ Crocodiles inhabit rivers, billabongs National Sir Edward °S Park Creek 15 Wyndham # # \ Larrimah \ # \ Park Pellew Group and estuaries in tropical areas. Limmen # \ # \ ÷ Victoria River National # Borroloola Daly # \ Kununurra Park Nitmiluk (Katherine Crossing C Mornington # ÷ \ arpen ta Waters # ria Gorge) National Park Island Gregory Lake # \ Hwy# # \ Dunmarra \ Cape York National Paddle Katherine Gorge (p193) Argyle Top Cape Peninsula Park Springs Crawford B Kalkarinji # ar # \ Newcastle The \ # \ Elliott Derby k Kimberley ly Burketown Waters # \ # \ Renner # \ Normanton Waanyi/ Halls Springs # \ Lajamanu NORTHERN Garawa Creek # # \ \ # \ Aboriginal b Fitzroy TERRITORY Mataranka Springs le Land Crossing la One of the NT's many Karlantijpa North n Ba d cool pools (p197) Aboriginal Land rk s ly # \ Hw Tennant y Central Desert # \ Camooweal Creek Karlantijpa Aboriginal Land Wakaya South Wauchope Aboriginal \ Aboriginal # Da Land \ # \ Mt Isa # v Great Sandy Desert Land Cloncurry Ra en Hughenden ng p o r # \ Central es t Mt Stuart Lake Mackay (849m)R Aboriginal QUEENSLAND \ Ti Tree # Land # \ Yuendumu \ Aileron # # \ Winton WESTERN Lake # \ West MacDonnell Harts R ange Mackay AUSTRALIA Boulia Haasts Bluff National Park Atnetye Aboriginal Land # ÷ # ] Alice Springs Longreach # Aboriginal Land \ Hermannsburg # \ Central Australia Ta Hwy Birdsville\ # Oodnadatta Track Adventurous 615km outback detour (p143) 3 333 333 3 44 3 33 3333 33 33 44 43 33 3 44 3 33 33 43 43 44 44 44 4 4 3 33 3 333 333 344 33 44 4 4 333 333 33 33 344 3 33 333 3 3333 3333 33 33 333 33 3333 33 3 3 # ÷ # Finke Gorge ÷ # ÷ Pmere Nyente Watarrka National Park Aboriginal Land National Park Kaltukatjara \ # Simpson Desert Yulara (Kings Canyon)\ (Docker River) # Erldunda # Kata Tjuta æ #\ Pmer Ulperre R Mt Conner # æ # Ingwemirne Uluru-Kata Tjuta ÷ (350m) \ # Kulgera Aboriginal Land National Park Uluru 33 Petermann Aboriginal Land 130°E SOUTHERN OCEAN 135°E wy Alice Springs 125°E Katherine Darwin Adelaide tH Mt Gambier Stu a r Port Augusta l l e T r ac k Bi r ds v i e \ Mt Gambier # # Kingston SE \ # \ Naracoorte \ # Beachport Str z # ÷ # ] VICTORIA ^ # Melbourne Bendigo ] # Ballarat Horsham Hamilton # ] # ] Simpson Desert Conservation Park Innamincka Witjira Pitjantjatjara Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park # ÷ Simpson Desert Regional Aboriginal Land nadatt National Park Regional Reserve Reserve Ood a Mintabie # \ ÷ # Two natural wonders (p223) # Marla \ Great # Oodnadatta \ Victoria SOUTH Innamincka \ # Desert Lake Strzelecki AUSTRALIA Eyre Regional # ÷ # \ Reserve ÷ # ÷ # Conservation Coober Cunnamulla # ÷ Lake Eyre Tallaringa # Park \ Pedy National \ Laverton # Conservation Maralinga Tjarutja Park Park ki Aboriginal Land The Ghan lec # \ Marree Adelaide to Darwin VulkathunhaYellabinna Roxby by rail (p283) Ikara (Wilpena Pound) Gammon Ranges Nullarbor Regional Leigh Downs \ # National Park ÷ # Regional Reserve Reserve # Remarkable Flinders Ranges Creek \ ÷ # ÷ # Lake Torrens rock formations (p135) # National Park Woomera ÷ # \ Lake Gairdner ÷ Nullarbor Border Lake ÷ # Flinders Ranges # Yalata # \ National Park # Plain Village ÷ # National Park Torrens \ Broken Wilcannia # Lake Yalata #\ \ Nullabor \ # Wilpena Hill \ Gairdner Hawker # Eucla National Aboriginal \ # # \ Gawler Ranges Park Ceduna Land \ Quorn Port # National Park Adelaide Central Market # ] Augusta # ÷ ROAD DISTANCES (km) \ Multicultural downtown Streaky Bay # Peterborough # ÷ Whyalla \ # # \ Pinkawillinie Note: Distances foodie delights (p55) # \ Conservation Park Alice Springs 1524 are approximate Port Pirie Danggali Great Australian Bight Cowell # # ÷ Conservation Elliston \ \ # \ Burra # Eyre Darwin 3020 1496 Park \ # NEW \ # Peninsula Renmark Mildura Wallaroo Clare SOUTH \ # Katherine 2702 1178 318 \ Tumby # ] # Coffin # \ # \ \ Bay WALES Loxton Tanunda # # Mt Gambier 430 1960 3460 3150 Bay \ Port # Adelaide ^ Murray Kangaroo Island \ # Lincoln Port Augusta 300 1224 2720 2402 750 \ Ouyen Bridge Pinnaroo # Wildlife, wilderness and \ # Kingscote 35°S # \ \ # fine edibles (p90) Tennant Ck 2032 508 988 670 2470 1732 \ Meningie Victor # McLaren Vale Wine Region # Harbor ÷ One of SA's brilliant Kangaroo Bordertown Coorong \ Island National Park # wine regions (p82) Kings Canyon & Watarrka National Park A unique outback oasis (p220) Gibson Desert k Trac Tra ck CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS Cathy Craigie is a Gamilaori/Anaiwon woman from northern New South Wales. She is a freelance writer and cultural consultant and has extensive experience in Aboriginal Affairs. Cathy contributed the Aboriginal Australia chapter. Brenda L Croft was born in Perth, now lives in on the south coast of New South Wales, and she is a senior research fellow at the University of NSW. Brenda is from the Gurindji/Malngin/Mudpurra peoples in the Northern Territory on her paternal side, and of Anglo-Australian/German/Irish heritage on her maternal side. She has been involved in the arts and cultural sectors for three decades as an artist, arts administrator, curator, writer, academic and consultant. Brenda contributed the Indigenous Visual Arts chapter. David Fuller & Kylie Strelan wrote the Outback Environment chapter. David has worked for the last 22 years as a parks and wildlife ranger, and Kylie is an editor with an environmental consultancy. They lived for more than 15 years in national parks throughout the Northern Territory, including Garig Gunak Barlu, the West MacDonnells and Nitmiluk. With a passion for road trips (and family to visit in Adelaide), David and Kylie have driven the length of the Stuart Hwy more times than they care to recall. Dr Irene Watson wrote the section headed The Land & Indigenous Peoples in the Outback Environment chapter, first published in Lonely Planet’s Aboriginal Australia & the Torres Strait Islands: Guide to Indigenous Australia. Dr Watson is now working with the University of South Australia. Dr Watson writes: ‘I am a Tanganekald and Meintangk woman; my ancestors are the sovereign peoples of the Coorong and the southeast region of South Australia.’ OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Charles Rawlings-Way Co-coordinating author; Adelaide & South Australia As a likely lad, Charles suffered in shorts through Tasmanian winters, and in summer counted the days til he visited his grandparents in Adelaide. With desert-hot days, cool swimming pools, pasties with tomato sauce squirted into the middle and four TV stations, this flat city held paradisiacal status. In teenage years he realised that girls from Adelaide – with their Teutonic cheekbones and fluoridated teeth – were better looking than anywhere else in Australia. These days he lives with a girl from Adelaide (see fluoridated teeth, aforementioned) in the Adelaide Hills and has developed an unnatural appreciation for Coopers Pale Ale. An underrated rock guitarist and proud father of daughters, Charles has penned 20-something guidebooks for Lonely Planet. Meg Worby Co-coordinating author; Adelaide & South Australia After six years at Lonely Planet in the languages, editorial and publishing teams, Meg swapped the desktop for a laptop in order to write about her home state, South Australia. After 10 years away, she was stoked to find that King George whiting is still every bit as fresh on Kangaroo Island, there are the same endless roads to cruise down in the Flinders Ranges, and the Adelaide Hills now has more wineries. In fact, obvious wine analogies aside, she found that most places in South Australia just keep getting better. This is Meg’s fourth Australian guidebook for Lonely Planet. Lindsay Brown Darwin to Uluru; First Time: the Red Centre; Your Outback Trip; The Outback Environment A former conservation biologist and publishing manager of outdoor activity guides at Lonely Planet, Lindsay enjoys nothing more than heading into the outback in his trusty old 4WD to explore and photograph Australia’s heartland. As a Lonely Planet author, Lindsay has contributed to several titles including Australia, Central Australia, Northern Territory, Queensland & the Great Barrier Reef, East Coast Australia, Sydney & New South Wales and Walking in Australia. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 6th edition – Jun 2013 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 773 2 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 2013 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. 27 Itineraries West MacDonnell Ranges National Park ÷ # É Tylers Pass c Tnorala Conservation # ÷ É Park • # Alice Springs • # É Hermannsburg ÷ # Watarrka (Kings Canyon) # ÷ National Park Finke Gorge National Park É É É É É É ÷ # Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park NORTHERN TERRITORY SOUTH AUSTRALIA 3 KS The Red Centre WEE Getting to Australia’s red desert heart is half the fun: hop on an internal flight from the east coast, jump on the legendary train the Ghan from either Darwin or Adelaide, or tackle the Stuart Hwy from the north or south. But whichever conveyance you choose, you’ll be confronted by one of Australia’s great truths: this place is gargantuan! Travel in winter to beat the heat. Alice Springs (p202; just ‘Alice’ to her friends) will come as sweet relief if you’ve been clocking up the desert highway miles. Enjoy the trappings of civilisation for a while, but don’t dally: there are national parks out there waiting to be explored! Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park (p223) is a must-see, but Finke Gorge National Park (p219) is for serious 4WD-ers. More accessible is the Watarrka (Kings Canyon) National Park (p220) and West MacDonnel Ranges National Park (p217). For a real taste of outback driving, head for Tylers Pass (p217) in the ‘West Macs’, from where you can view the crater of Tnorala Conservation Park (p219). From here, if you’ve got a 4WD, take the ‘inner loop’ road down to Hermannsburg (p219) and back to Alice on Larapinta Dr – but be prepared for some devilish road corrugations! 28 É NORTHERN TERRITORY QUEENSLAND É Coober SOUTH AUSTRALIA • # Pedy É PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries WESTERN AUSTRALIA ÷ # É Kata Tjuta • #• # Uluru É Watarrka (Kings Canyon) Alice # National Park • Springs Flinders Ranges National Park ÷ # É # Woomera • É É NEW SOUTH WALES Clare Valley • # ACT É Barossa • # Valley Adelaide • # • # McLaren Vale Wine Region Kangaroo • # ÷ # Island Coorong National Park Coonawarra Wine Region VICTORIA • # É # Great Ocean • Road 4KS Adelaide to Alice Springs WEE If you’re hoofing it over to SA from Victoria, super-scenic Great Ocean Road conveniently spits you out near the Coonawarra Wine Region (p104). From here explore the dunes and lagoons of Coorong National Park (p99), sip your way through McLaren Vale Wine Region (p82), then either hop over to Kangaroo Island (p90) for a few days, or roll into festival-frenzied Adelaide (p54). Don’t miss a trip to Central Market for lunch, and a night eating and drinking on Rundle St. If it’s hot, cool off inside the estimable Art Galley of SA, or hop on the tram for a beachy swim at palindromic Glenelg. More wine! About an hour north of Adelaide is the old-school Barossa Valley (p112; big reds); and about two hours north is the boutiquey Clare Valley (p117) with its worldclass riesling, cottagey B&Bs and old stone mining towns. Continuing north, raggedy Flinders Ranges National Park (p131) jags up from the semi-desert like a rust-coloured mirage. Rich in indigenous culture, the Flinders – the heart of which is the amazing Ikara (Wilpena Pound) – will etch itself into your memory. Hit the Stuart Hwy and journey north to the mildly spooky rocket-testing town Woomera (p139) and the opal-tinged dugouts of Coober Pedy (p139). Trucking north, you’ll enter the Simpson Desert and cross into the NT. The Lasseter Hwy turn-off takes you to weighty, eye-popping Uluru (p227) and the mesmerising Kata Tjuta (p228) rock formations. You’ve seen the photos and the TV shows, but there’s nothing quite like seeing an Uluru sunset firsthand. About 300km north of Uluru, the spectacular, vertigo-inducing Watarrka (Kings Canyon) National Park (p220) rewards intrepid travellers with scenic walks into and around the rim of this gaping desert chasm. Finish up in the desert oasis of Alice Springs (p202), in the heart of the steep-sided MacDonnell Ranges. Alice has plenty to keep you busy for a few days: the excellent Alice Springs Desert Park, some classy restaurants or just a soak in a swimming pool as you gear-up for the next leg of your journey (the Stuart Hwy drive or Ghan train ride to Darwin, or an internal flight if you’re time-poor). 29 STEVE PARISH / CORBIS © PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries KYLIE MCLAUGHLIN / GETTY IMAGES © Top: Flinders Ranges National Park (p131) Bottom: Outdoor dining, Rundle St, Adelaide 30 É Kakadu É PL AN YOUR TRIP I tineraries # Darwin • É ÷ National # Park Litchfield National # ÷ Park É Nitmiluk ÷ (Katherine Gorge) # # Katherine • É National Park É • # Mataranka WESTERN AUSTRALIA NORTHERN TERRITORY 2 KS Darwin, Kakadu & Katherine WEE Gone are the days when Darwin (p151) was a brawling frontier town full of fishermen, miners and truck drivers blowing off steam. These days there seem to be more backpackers here than anyone else, and Darwin is very multicultural, as a visit to the fabulous Mindil Beach Sunset Market will confirm. Grab some Thai stir-fry, Indonesian beef rendang, a Malaysian laksa or a Greek souvlaki and head for the beach. While you’re in Darwin, don’t miss the outdoor Deckchair Cinema in the dry season, and the outstanding Aboriginal and Cyclone Tracy exhibits at the Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. Also worth a look is the atmospheric Saturday-morning Parap Village Market, crammed with tropical produce and food stalls, followed by a night on Mitchell St, where a free-wheelin’, anything-goes vibe confirms Darwin’s rep as a hedonistic haven (…depending on your mood, you might want to head for bed before or around 1am, after which things can get messy). Shopping-wise, the commercial galleries in Darwin are great for making an informed, ethical purchase of some Aboriginal art. A few hours south on the Stuart Hwy you’ll run into some superb national parks. Litchfield National Park (p176) is famous for its plummeting waterfalls, bushwalks and cooling swimming holes – so welcoming on a hot day. From here, backtrack 50km north then head east into World Heritage-listed Kakadu National Park (p179), a wetland of international significance with amazing rock outcrops dappled with equally amazing, millennia-old Aboriginal rock art. Check out the Kakadu wildlife too: crocs, lizards, snakes, brolgas, jabirus, barramundi and flocks of raucous birdlife. Further south is Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) National Park (p193), where the Katherine River cuts its way through 13 jagged ravines. Take a walk, a swim, a scenic flight, or paddle a canoe to find an isolated spot for lunch. Katherine (p189) is the regional ‘big-smoke’: there’s not a lot going on here, but it’s a good place to stock-up for your road trip or take a dip in some thermal springs. Continuing south, there are also thermal springs at Mataranka (p197) − soak off the road dust in a (free!) naturallyheated swimming hole and wonder what the folks back home are doing this afternoon. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
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