Passport to
Wine Country
How to plan an excellent
European wine adventure
BY JOANNE SASVARI
No 24 - Wine Access APR/MAY 12
Fine Vintage Ltd. photo by Olaf Strassner for Fine Vintage Ltd. Black Grenache Wine Grape by Christophe Grilhé. Germany photo courtesy Wines of Germany
Tabarrini Winery photo by Pierpaolo Metelli.
Clockwise from top left:
Bailaoras at Jerez de la Frontera; sampling wine with Fine Vintage Wine
Tours; grenache grapes in the Rhône Valley; sampling French cuisine in
Bordeaux with Butterfield & Robinson; tour the vineyards in Germany;
Vineyards near Tabarrini, a winery located in Montefalco, Umbria.
wineaccess.ca - No 25
PASSPORT TO WINE COUNTRY
Lungarotti Poggio alle Vigne
(Il Pometo villa in Italy)
Checking out a European
wine cellar.
No 26 - Wine Access APR/MAY 12
Barrel photo by Olaf Strassner, courtesy Fine Vintage. Umbria photo by Pierpaolo Metelli.
W
hether you are
With a tour, someone else is responsible
to spit, make sure you have a designated driver.
sampling sherry in
for the organizing and driving, not to mention
Alternatively, many wine regions offer local
a Spanish bodega,
that most tour leaders have great connections
tours or buses to the wineries; check with the
“bull’s blood” in a
and can offer experiences the average person
local tourism bureau to see what’s available.
Don’t forget that wine and food are meant
Hungarian pincészet can only dream of.
or Bordeaux in an
If you travel on your own, however, you can to be enjoyed together. Do some research
elegant French chateau, a European wine
determine your own schedule, make your own on the best regional restaurants, both highand low-end, so you don’t end up at tourist
trip offers a vintage experience you just can’t
discoveries and never have to share a bus seat
traps. If you’re staying in a self-catered unit
get anywhere else.
with someone you’ve come to loathe.
With every sip of wine, you’ll drink in
Just remember that most wineries are in
such as a gîte, plan to visit the farmers’
centuries of tradition and history. You’ll
rural areas, which means you’ll need a car.
markets and shop like the locals do. Learn
encounter wines you’d never find at home
Car rentals can be expensive in Europe, so
ahead of time what the local delicacies are,
and meet people
and prepare to be
whose families have
open-minded in case
been making wine for Experience the magic of drinking wine in the terroir
you end up dining on
generations. And you’ll where it was grown — learning first-hand how the heat
eels, snails and offal,
experience the magic of the sun, the feel of the soil and the fragrance in the
which is entirely posof drinking wine in
sible in, for instance,
air all contribute to the flavours of the wine.
the terroir where it
parts of Spain.
Finally, you will
was grown — learning
be sure to read the fine print and make sure
probably end up buying wine while you’re
first-hand how the heat of the sun, the feel
abroad, so you’ll also need to consider how to
you have appropriate insurance. If you’re
of the soil and the fragrance in the air all
travelling for a month or more, you may
get it home. Since shipping wine from Europe
contribute to the flavours of the wine —
be better off buying and selling a vehicle
can be pricey and liquids are no longer aland enjoying it with the food it was created
instead. It may also cost less if you arrange
lowed in carry-on luggage, you may want to
to complement.
Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it? But before
bring an extra suitcase and lots of bubble wrap
your rental in Canada, instead of waiting
and pack the bottles in your checked luggage.
you book your flight to Paris or Rome, it helps
to arrange it in Europe.
And keep in mind most European cars
You’ll pay duty on it when you arrive home,
to have a plan.
First, you have to decide what part of
have standard transmissions; if you need an
too, so don’t waste your money on cheap
Europe you want to visit. For instance, if
automatic, you’ll want to reserve one via a
plonk or anything you can buy here.
you love bold reds and sizzling hot, sunny
Canadian car rental agency.
Then again, the most important things
weather, Rioja or Sicily may be the desYou’ll also want to pick up an international
you’ll bring home are your unforgettable memtination for you. But, if you prefer aromatic
driver’s licence, which is available through the
ories of a land where, as Ernest Hemingway
whites and cool, green forests, Germany may
Canadian Automobile Association. And reonce wrote, people think of wine “as somebe more your style.
member that drunk-driving laws are very strict
thing as healthy and normal as food and also
Next, you should consider whether you
in Europe. The legal blood-alcohol limit in most a great giver of happiness and well-being and
want to plan an independent trip or join
countries is .05 percent, though in some, such
delight . . . as natural as eating and to me as
a tour.
as Hungary, it’s zero. If you’re not planning
necessary.” We’ll drink to that.
A worker harvests grapes from a
70-year-old vineyard in Umbria, Italy.
wineaccess.ca - No 27
PASSPORT TO WINE COUNTRY
FIVE GREAT WINE ROUTES TO EXPLORE
1
2
3
3. PORTUGAL: DOURO VALLEY
One of the best ways to explore the
magnificent, vine-covered slopes along the
sleepy Douro River is to get out of your car and
take a ride on a steam train or go for a river
cruise. That way you can use the more relaxed
pace to enjoy more of the region’s red, white
and famous fortified Port wines, along with one
of Europe’s most exciting culinary renaissances.
Port, of course, is named for the prosperous
coastal city of Porto, a UNESCO World
Heritage site with a history that dates back to
the days of the Romans. Drop in and check out
the wild mix of architectural eras and styles in
this historic city with a wine-drenched past.
2. SPAIN: JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA
If you love your fino and oloroso and wouldn’t
say no to a splash of amontillado, you’ll
want to visit this graceful Moorish town with
its elegant palm-tree-lined squares and
fascinating history. The Arabic-derived name
“Jerez” is synonymous with sherry, the fortified
wine that is produced only in this region. Most
of the sherry bodegas are open to the public
for tours and tastings, and are conveniently
located right in the city centre. Jerez, which is
situated in Andalusia midway between sea and
mountains, is also famous for its horse culture,
flamenco music and a cuisine of shellfish,
game and tapas, which just happen to pair
beautifully with a chilled dry fino sherry.
4. HUNGARY: TOKAJ
Tokaj (pronounced toe-KAI) is the most famous
of Hungary’s 22 wine regions, and for centuries
has produced Tokaji Aszú, the delicate,
botrytis-affected dessert wine that has been
known as “wine of kings, king of wines” since
it was introduced at the court of France's
King Louis XIV. This is one of the world’s most
historic wine-producing regions — the world’s
first controlled appellation was established
here — and you’ll still find wine being made in
ancient cellars once owned by Transylvanian
princes, and hotels housed in their former
palaces. Tokaj is also known for crisp, dry
whites that pair well with the tender fish from
the nearby River Tisza.
No 28 - Wine Access APR/MAY 12
4
5
5. FRANCE: SOUTHERN RHÔNE VALLEY
Think sun-drenched hills, friendly locals, terrific
food and lush, spicy red wines based largely
on syrah and grenache. The Rhône Valley
may not have the Grand Vins of Bordeaux or
the allure of Burgundy’s patchwork quilt of
vineyards, but for sheer, hedonistic, wineloving pleasure, it can’t be beat. Be sure to
visit the hilltop village of Châteauneuf-duPape, famous for its complex red blends once
made for the pleasure of the Pope, then cross
the Rhône to sip royal rosés in Tavel.
Umbria photo by Pierpaolo Metelli. Rhône Valley photo by Christophe Grilhé.
1. ITALY: UMBRIA
Escape the crowds of Tuscany and head to
the hills of nearby Umbria instead. This wild,
mountainous region of Italy isn’t as famous as,
say, Chianti, but that just makes discovering
its bright, food-friendly wines that much more
exciting. Umbria has long been known for
Orvieto, a crisp, dry, white blend produced
around the medieval village of the same name.
But it is also becoming celebrated for elegant
reds based on sangiovese, such as Torgiano
Rosso, which pairs beautifully with the area’s
hearty, game-based cuisine. Be sure to visit
the village of Norcia, which is as famous for its
pork salume and black truffles as it is for being
St. Benedict’s birthplace.
BIKE OR WALK
IN WINE COUNTRY
Maybe you don’t want to be on a tour bus or
driving yourself down narrow European roads.
Maybe you love the thought of being active on
vacation. With that in mind, here are two great
options for you to consider when booking your
next European vacation:
Butterfield & Robinson (butterfield.com) offers
cycling and walking trips through France
(Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Loire, Provence)
and Italy (Piedmont, Tuscany, Puglia and
Sicily). Most trips are six days (five nights),
and the new Bistro program is geared toward
budget-minded travellers. Various packages
are available, depending on your budget, and
private tours can be arranged. A support van
accompanies groups, and new “electronicassisted” bikes are available. Depending on the
chosen tour, expect to visit at least one winery
per day, with tastings and wine-related talks
scattered throughout the program. Prices start
at about US $500 and run up to about $2,000
per day. Call 1-866-551-9090 for details.
Butterfield & Robinson offers a range of active tours
through some of Europe's top wine regions.
In addition to a full roster of trips around
the world, Backroads (backroads.com) offers
an enticing selection of cycling and multisport trips with food and wine components,
primarily in Italy (Puglia, Piedmont, Tuscany,
Friuli, etc.) and France (Alsace, Bordeaux,
Burgundy, Loire, Provence, etc.). Walking trips,
with wine features, are available in Tuscany, the
Amalfi Coast, Provence and more. Most trips
have two support vans, and bikes are included
on each tour. Six-day tours start at US $2,998.
Call 1-800-462-2848. (Shelley Boettcher)
wineaccess.ca - No 29
SPA TIME
Spending a few hours or, better, a week, at
a spa like this one at the Hotel Marqués de
Riscal is an excellent way to relax during your
European wine vacation.
FRANCE
Les Sources de Caudalíe
sources-caudalie.com
Located in the vineyards of Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Bordeaux,
Les Sources de Caudalíe was started in 1999. The spa offers
vinotherapy treatments at their finest (including a red wine bath, a
Crushed Cabernet Scrub, a grape blossom wrap and more), all using
the renowned Caudalíe products; half-day, full-day and multi-day
packages are available. When you aren’t at the spa, consider an onsite cooking class or wine tasting. Forty rooms and nine suites offer
luxurious accommodations, and a Michelin-starred restaurant, La
Grand’Vigne, is on site, as well as a second restaurant and a wine bar.
SPAIN
Hotel Marqués de Riscal
hotel-marquesderiscal.com
Architecture buffs will no doubt love checking out this Rioja hotel,
designed by Frank O. Gehry and located at the renowned Marqués
de Riscal winery. Forty-three rooms plus two restaurants (and a Michelinstarred chef) offer fine choices for eating and sleeping, while the on-site
Spa Vinothérapie Caudalíe offers spa treatments with professional
“vinotherapists” and Caudalíe products from France. Don’t miss the
barrel baths; you can literally sit in a tub created from an oak wine barrel.
Half-day, full-day and multi-day packages are available.
No 30 - Wine Access APR/MAY 12
GERMANY
Wald and Schlosshotel-Friedrichsruhe
schlosshotel-friedrichsruhe.de
This former castle’s classically decorated rooms feature original artwork
and antique furniture, as well as all the expected modern high-end
hotel amenities. On the grounds, a former stable and hunting lodge
have been converted into outstanding private suites. You can take
cooking classes at the on-site restaurants, or you can, of course, go to
the spa, which offers everything from massage to a Finnish sauna and
pools. Treatments use Wald and Schlosshotel-Friedrichsruhe’s own
line of vinotherapy products, SanVino, created from grapes grown in
the region’s vineyards. Located near Baden-Württemberg, about 70
kilometres from Stuttgart, the resort also has an adjacent golf course.
ITALY
Relais San Maurizio
relaissanmaurizio.it
Created out of an ancient monastery in Langhe, Relais San Maurizio offers
30 rooms, all updated with modern amenities. Ten rooms have private
gardens, and every room is decorated completely differently. The spa is
located in 1,000 square metres of underground salt caves — the former
monastery’s original cellars, and there’s also a Turkish hammam (steam
bath). The property offers a Michelin-starred restaurant, a bistro and a
wine bar and, a short drive away, you’ll find four golf courses, too.
(Shelley Boettcher)
Marqués de Riscal photo courtesy Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. Les Sources de Caudalíe photo by M. Cellard
PASSPORT TO WINE COUNTRY
Les Sources de Caudalíe
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PASSPORT TO WINE COUNTRY
WHERE TO STAY
Stay in a big, impersonal hotel and you
miss half the fun of a wine country vacation.
Instead, why not check out one of these rural
accommodation options?
CASTLES: If you’re looking for something a
little more luxe, how about a stay in a castle?
About a half-hour from Florence, Italy, Castello
di Gabbiano (castellogabbiano.it) offers luxurious accommodations, an outdoor pool and
an excellent on-site restaurant at a working
winery in Tuscany.
And Hungary’s wine country is dotted with
historic properties that combine vintage charm
with modern convenience, such as the grand
Grof Degenfeld Castle Hotel in the heart of the
famous Tokaj wine region (hotelgrofdegenfeld.
hu/en/). For more information, visit castlehotels.
holidayhungary.com.
AGRITURISMO: Across Italy, farmers are
welcoming visitors into rustic accommodations
that allow them to enjoy an authentic rural experience. Like France’s gîtes, these are usually
self-catering properties and can range from a
simple one-bedroom apartment to a villa that
can sleep a dozen or more.
In fact, you can find all these options at the
charming Poggio alle Vigne (poggioallevigne.it)
nestled amid the Lungarotti vineyards in
Umbria. Or try Fattoria Poggerino in Chianto
Classico (poggerino.com) for a taste of Tuscan
sun and vino. For more information, visit
agriturismo.net.
GÎTES: You can find these self-service holiday
rentals all over France. Gîtes have kitchens
and, usually, several bedrooms, making
them terrific options for families or groups of
friends travelling together. They often have
other amenities as well: at the cosy Le Clos de
Caveau winery in Vacqueyras (closdecaveau.
com), for instance, the gîtes are surrounded by
vineyards and mountains, and have access to
a swimming pool as well as walking trails and
cycling paths. For more information, visit gitesde-france.com. (Joanne Sasvari)
TOUR OPERATORS
Leave the driving — and the
planning, booking and organizing
— to someone else. Here are a
few Canadian guides and tour
operators that can help you sip
wine-buying club is the biggest
wine society in the country. It also
organizes tours for its members;
visit the website to see what’s
planned (opim.ca).
your way around Europe:
GOURMET TRAVEL EXPERIENCE:
Calgary’s Peter Blattmann organizes high-end gourmet trips to
Europe, including France, Italy,
Spain and Portugal in 2012
(gourmet-experience.com).
ARTS AND LEISURE TOURS: This
Toronto-area company offers both
package and independent tours to
France, Italy, Spain and Portugal
(artsandleisuretours.com).
Castello di Gabbiano
No 32 - Wine Access APR/MAY 12
OPIMIAN SOCIETY: With 20,000
members across Canada, this
BY THE GLASS: This Halifax food
and wine club organizes wine
tours to Italy, France, Spain, Portugal and Croatia (bytheglass.ca).
FINE VINTAGE LTD.: Vancouverbased Master of Wine James
Cluer’s annual wine tours to Bordeaux, Tuscany and Spain always
sell out (finevintageltd.com).
INTO THE VINEYARD: A new
Vancouver-based travel agency
offers customized trips and group
tours to a variety of countries
(intothevineyard.com). (JS)