June
news & ideas
Try something new this
month! Make spicy Korean
BBQ ribs, go bar-hopping
in Dublin and compare
two types of merlot
Compiled by Danielle Theunissen
Photographs mike english
DS
EN
TR
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PL
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Styling: Rebecca Newport. Food styling: Katy Greenwood. Words: Danielle Theunissen, Janine Ratcliffe, Christine Austin
S
UY
•B
STAR RECIPE
Doughnut holes
with whisky
dipping sauce
RECIPE
ON
PAGE 11
If you only make one recipe this
month, try these doughnut holes
with a booze-spiked sauce (you can
eat lots, they’re only small)
june 2014 O 9
news & ideas
SUPERMARKET SWEEP
Food editor’s best buy
Janine Ratcliffe’s
favourite clever
products
£4.21
Pop into Waitrose for a speedy, Malay-inspired supper per person
£6.70
with wine
Steamed Malay
chicken parcels
25 minutes n Serves 2 n easy
Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4. Tear
off two large pieces of greaseproof paper
and put on a baking tray. In the middle
of each, pile half a packet of microwavable
basmati rice (99p/250g) and the vegetables
from a packet of Indonesian stir-fry
(£2.49/220gg) (leaving behind the
coriander). Slice a packet of roast Malayinspired chicken mini fillets (£3.99/175g)
into smaller pieces and divide between
the two. Drizzle 3 tbsp of coconut milk
(£1.89/400ml) over each, then wrap up into
parcels and bake for 15 minutes. Open the
parcels and serve with some coriander from
the stir-fry pack.
BIBIGO BULGOGI HOT
& SPICY BBQ SAUCE
This fiery red Korean sauce contains a decent
amount of gochuchang (red pepper paste)
as well as rice wine, garlic and ginger, so you
get a nice authentic hit of Korean BBQ flavour.
For sticky, spicy ribs, put a couple of small
racks of ribs in a roasting tin, half cover with
chicken stock and cook at 180C/fan 160C/
gas 4 oven for 1 hour. Turn up the oven to
high, drain off the stock and baste all over
with the sauce. Keep cooking and basting
until glazed and sticky. (£2.20/200ml, Tesco)
FANCY A GLASS WITH DINNER?
Match these lightly spiced parcels to the
aromatic pear and melon fruit of Waitrose
Crisp and Floral Italian Dry White, IGT
Delle Venezie, Italy, 12% (£4.99).
John Shepherd is the Managing Director of
Partridges, a specialist grocer that works closely
with independent producers (partridges.co.uk).
Here are his best buys:
These incredible chocolate bars had to be forcibly taken from
us when they landed at O towers. The dark chocolate
is laced with crunchy caramel pieces and
a fantastic salty hit. Great with a cup of Assam tea.
(£1.89/100g, widely available).
Falksalt’s colourful,
flaky Cyprus sea
salt crystals
flavoured with
lemon are large
enough to crush
in your fingers
and complement fish such as salmon
or sea bream. (£3.95/125g)
Seaweed is perfect
for adding some
unusual flavouring
to a dish and Mara’s
Shony flakes provide
a sweet and salty
fusion worth
experimenting with.
Try it in a fruit
crumble. (£6.50/30g)
10 O 1 hour + rising time
n Serves 6-8
n easy
whole milk 175ml
caster sugar 75g, plus extra for rolling
dried active yeast 2 tsp
strong white bread flour 425g
salt 1/2 tsp
eggs 2 medium, lightly beaten
unsalted butter 75g, very soft
WHISKY DIPPING SAUCE
dark muscovado sugar 100g
double cream 100ml
butter 50g
whisky 2-3 tbsp
n Heat the milk until just below boiling point
BUYER’S GUIDE
LINDT EXCELLENT DARK
CARAMEL AND SEA SALT
Doughnut
holes with
whisky
dipping sauce
Cheat sheet tonkotsu
Shoryu Ramen opened in 2012 and was
the first restaurant from the team
behind the Japan Centre. Executive
chef, Kanji Furukawa, was born and
raised in Hakata, Japan and explains
the secrets behind authentic Hakata
Tonkotsu ramen. (shoryuramen.com)
Our bestseller:
Partridges
Chelsea Flower
tea is a China blend
with apple, mango
& marigold. Try soaking dried fruits in it when
making fruit scones for a wonderful infusion
of flavours. (£5.50/125g OR £2.75/25 teabags) Vipers Bugloss is a carbon
zero certified, organic
honey from J. Friend & Co
in New Zealand with a
fascinating provenance
story, as you’ll see on our
website. Its versatility
makes it ideal for cooking
but it’s also a great drink
sweetener. (£5.95/160g)
june 2014
june 2014 t Thick, rich, silky tonkotsu pork
stock is cooked for over 18 hours at
a rolling boil and constantatly stirred to
ensure that it emulsifies and stays opaque.
The process produces gelatin as the
collagen breaks down and the fat, marrow,
calcium and other minerals and proteins
break into tiny pieces. These get
suspended in the liquid.
t The right noodles are vitally important
and must be thin and straight with plenty
of bounce and chew. We worked together
extensively with a Japanese master
noodle-maker in the UK, using strong
Cotswold flour to create the perfect
hosomen (thin noodle) for our ramen.
t The final components are the toppings.
We use Burford Brown eggs to make our
nitamago – soft-boiled eggs with gooey
yolks, marinated overnight in soy, mirin,
sake and ginger. The pork is marinated
and slow-simmered in soy, mirin, sake
and sugar for over 4 hours, with Mayu
caramelised black garlic from Hakata
itself adding a rich, earthy tone.
then remove from the heat and cool until
hand-warm. Add 1 tsp of the sugar and the
yeast. Whisk, then leave in a warm place for
5 minutes until a thick foam forms on top.
n Tip the flour, remaining sugar and salt into
a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the middle
of the dry ingredients and add the eggs,
softened butter and yeasty milk mixture.
n Using a wooden spoon, stir until the
mixture comes together to a soft dough. Tip
out of the bowl and knead for 5 minutes until
the dough is smooth and elastic. Form into
a ball and return to a clean bowl. Cover with
clingfilm and leave in a warm place for 1 1/2
hours, or until doubled in size.
n Tip the dough out onto the work surface
and knead lightly again for 30 seconds, then
roll out to a thickness of about 1 cm.
n Using a plain round cutter (about 2 cm),
stamp out circles and transfer to baking
sheets covered with baking paper, leaving
space between each doughnut. You’ll make
60-70. Cover loosely with oiled clingfilm and
leave in a warm place for 10 minutes.
n Put the dipping sauce ingredients in a pan
and heat gently, whisking until the sugar
dissolves. Simmer for 2-3 minutes.
n Heat oil in a large pan or wok no more
than 1/3 full and heat to 180C, or until a cube
of bread browns in about 45 seconds. Add
the doughnuts in batches, being careful not
to overcrowd the pan. Cook for a few minutes,
turning until puffed and golden. Drain on
kitchen paper then roll in caster sugar while
still hot. Serve each person a pile of mini
doughnuts and a bowl of sauce.
n Per serving 548 kcal, protein 9.6g, carbs
60.3g, fat 28.1g, sat fat 14g, fibre 1.3g, salt 0.5g
O 11
news & ideas
QUICK BITES
Make classic
cocktails
without the
danger of
trying to carve
a ball of ice
yourself, with
these nifty
Ice Ball Orbs.
(£9.99/4, phassocs.co.uk)
Kickstart your
morning with
a cup of Alma
de Cuba coffee.
The fuerte blend
is rich and aromatic
and perfect for
slow-brewing.
It also comes
in a stylish tin. (£12/250g tin,
almacuba.com/coffee)
Olives et Al’s Egyptianstyle spiced dukkah is
a delicious mix of
toasted nuts, seeds
and spices. It makes
a great crunchy salad
topping, a spice rub for
meat or simply stirred
through some houmous for extra
flavour. (£4/90g, olivesetal.co.uk)
We’ve tried a few varieties
of coconut water, but Unoco’s
Raw Coconut Water is by
far the most delicious. It’s
unpasturised and packed
with anti-oxidants, that are
not only good for you but
also turn the water pink!
(£2.45/250ml, planetorganic.com)
Two new salty snacks
currently being
devoured by us are
Manomasa Tortilla
Chips (£1.85/160g,
ocado.com) mainly
the white cheddar
flavour, and Kent
Crisps’ Oyster and
Vinegar, which taste remarkably like
real fish and chips. (85p/40g, farm
shops and delis, kentcrisps.com)
12 O PEOPLE
WE LIKE
sam hawkes
Originally built in 1869, The Cadogan Arms on the
King’s Road has long been a local favourite. With the
arrival of head chef Sam (formally of The Bull and
Last), expect a new menu brimming with seasonal
produce and dishes such as queen scallops, chorizo
and hazelnut powder, £9.50, and Roast Iberico pork
shoulder, almond purée, pickled plums, pork jus,
£19.50. thecadoganarmschelsea.com
‘In June I’ll mostly be eating...fresh peas. I always look forward to English pea
season, they really are the best in the world. I tend to spend a lot of spring and summer
both cooking and eating them!
‘right now I’m reading Proper Pub Food by Tom Kerridge. I haven’t used
many of his recipes yet, but it gives great inspiration.
‘When I’m home alone I love eating… Haribo
– tangfastics are my favourite, particularly the cherries.
‘I love eating out at Hawksmoor Spitalfields.
They use great cuts of meat, and the chips are nearly
as good as mine.
‘I’m most inspired by the food of Vietnam.
It’s hard to pick one country. I’ve travelled to a few
countries where the food has been fantastic, but my
all-time favourite is Vietnam. The food culture is
amazing, I could eat pho every day! Recently I was
in the Sichuan province of China, the Chonqing
hotpots really were
incredible.
If you gave me
a tenner I‘d
spend it on...
Fitz Fine Foods
Truffle Mustard, £7.
I buy it from Borough
Market all the time.
It’s very decadent,
perfect with roast
rump of beef and
Yorkshire puds.
It’s always in my
cupboard at home.
BEST OF THE BLOG
Head to lulusnotes.com for great everyday
recipe inspiration
tH
ot smoked trout with pancetta, new
potatoes and pea shoots bit.ly/1mhuyd8
t Quinoa, courgette and feta salad
bit.ly/1qVo1FS
tS
picy pork meatball and noodle soup
bit.ly/1ddyU2s
june 2014
eat in/weekend
news
& ideas
cocktail GREEN BA$T@RD
Following a fantastically popular pop-up in Chelsea, Japanese restaurant
Kurobuta now has a permanent home in Marble Arch. Expect everything
from sashimi, through to messy steamed pork buns, all alongside killer
cocktails such as this refreshing, cheekilynamed drink. (kurobuta-london.com)
In a cocktail shaker,
muddle together 4 big
pieces of cucumber with
30ml gin (Kurobuta uses
Hendricks), 20ml Midori,
15ml sugar syrup, 15ml lime
juice and 10ml egg white.
Shake hard with ice, strain
into a short glass and
garnish with a couple of
slices of cucumber.
BAR-HOPPING
Dublin
Every month barchick.com shares the best places to drink
outside the capital
The Must Do
ONE WINE, TWO PRICES MERLOT
Our wine expert Christine Austin chooses
wines to suit your budget
Bargain
bottle
£3.99
Full of bright,
simple, easyquaffing
raspberry fruit,
Andara Merlot
2013, Central
Valley, Chile, 13%
(£3.99 Aldi) is a
great choice for
a weekday
night supper.
14 O Worth
the extra
Move up to the dense
blackcurrant and sweet,
spiced notes of
Errazuriz Max
Reserva Merlot 2011,
Aconcagua Valley,
Chile, 14% (£12.99
Majestic Wine) for
a bigger taste
experience. Made from
select grapes grown
on one of the best
cool-climate sites in
the Aconcagua Valley
this is wine to
accompany
a Sunday roast or
a chunk of aged
cheddar cheese.
Looking for a party? 777 is Mexican madness at its very best. Tequila
is the name of the game in here: by day it’s a diner dishing out Mexican
favourites, but by night it really comes alive. (777.ie)
Best Bar Snacks
Not only does Fade Street Social have the coolest outdoor garden
in town, but it also has some of the best food. Their tapas is fantastic:
tuck into soft shell crab, mini lobster hot dogs and prawn tempura with
your cocktails. (fadestreetsocial.com)
Best for wine
As the name suggests, Bagots Hutton Wine Emporium is the
ultimate wine cellar and having opened in 1828, it’s the oldest in
Ireland. Sink into a Chesterfield with friends and drink in a little history
with your wine and tapas. (bagotshutton.com)
New Kid on the Block
This 1920s vintage-style cocktail bar The Liquor Rooms is a
must-visit. Cocktails are their speciality, but throw in some magic,
burlesque, live music and seductive décor and you’ve got yourself
a party! (theliquorrooms.com)
Not Many People Know About
Finding The Bar With No Name is the hard part (look out for the
snail), but if successful we promise you won’t want to leave. Sink into
a Chesterfield, explore the warren of rooms or hang out in the epic
smoking area with a fantastic cocktail in hand. (kellysdublin.com)
june 2014
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restaurant of the month
WHITE RABBIT
With its bare brick walls and minimalist
furniture, you’d be forgiven for thinking that
White Rabbit was one of the many hip burger
and pizza joints that this area is famous for.
Once inside though it’s much more relaxed
- soft lighting, fresh flowers on tables,
sheepskin-covered benches and warm,
friendly staff.
Chef Dan Cheetham has created a
daily-changing menu of designed-to-share
small, medium and large plates with
influences ranging from modern British,
Mediterranean, North Africa and Asia
– so confit duck makes a filling for deep-fried
pierogi dumplings and mussels are served
with miso dashi and shitake mushrooms.
There’s also a good-value seven course
tasting menu at £35, and at weekends
a simple brunch menu is served from 11am
with dishes like blood oranges, grapefruit,
orange and labne with pistachio crumbs, £4,
sitting alongside the traditional fry-up.
Jugs of iced tap water with cucumber and
mint are brought as soon as you sit down
and the small cocktail list is as much of a
cultural mash-up as the menu. Try the New
World Fashioned (Yamakazi, Canadian Club,
Barras Porto and walnut bitters) £10. Wine
is great value, with bottles starting at 19.50
for the house Syrah.
Must order: Roasted watermelon, black olive
candy and salted ricotta (pictured left), £7,
Hake, XO, monks beard, wild rice congee,
£15.50, 50-day-aged beef short rib, onion
caramel and salsify £18.50.
(whiterabbitdalston.com)
Elegant cutlery set
Save £85 on RRP
Set your table in style with this classic
cutlery from Viners. Whether you’re
entertaining a crowd or simply having
supper with the family, this quality
stainless-steel cutlery is just the job.
The sleek Harley design combines
traditional elegance with a clean,
contemporary edge, and the set
is dishwasher safe. It comes with
a 25-year Viners Guarantee.
The 58-piece set
contains the
following:
t 8 table knives t 8 table forks
t 8 dessert knives t 8 dessert forks
t 8 dessert spoonst 8 soup spoons
t 8 teaspoons
t 2 table spoons
only
£64.99
(rrp £149.99)
plus p&p
HOW TO ORDER:
Please send a
cheque payable to
Oneida International
Limited, with OLO14
written on the back,
to: O Reader
Offers, Emery
House, Greatbridge
Road, Romsey SO51
0AD, call 01794
527448* quoting
OLO14 or visit www.
viners.co.uk/direct/
olo14w
To Order, call 01794 527448* quoting OLO14 or visit www.viners.co.uk/direct/olo14w
TERMS AND CONDITIONS Please add £3.95 p&p per order. Offer closes 30 May 2014 and is subject to availability. Delivery within 28 days to mainland UK only, some exclusions may apply. If dissatisfied, please return goods unused within seven days for a full refund. Contract for the
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16 O june 2014