1. food and drink
2. desserts and baking

Thursday, January 24, 2008
FEATURE
Southern Cross, Page 3
The 1935-36 Catholic Women’s Club’s Cook Book: how to test
oven heat with paper, make “very good” Turtle Egg Cake
or Poor Man’s Rice Pudding
here was nothing inflammatory about the recipes gathered by the Catholic Women’s Club of
Savannah in their modest 1935-36 cookbook. Culled from the kitchen files of members of the
group (often identified by initials only) or selected by the book’s editors, the recipes were usually
mainstream 1930s’ dishes, though one of its household hints could have been incendiary.
Compiled in the mid-1930s after an optimistic
Besides these women, there were others who
president had pulled the U.S. out of financial
contributed their cooking specialties anonydepression and before a strident German leader
mously or semi-anonymously, such as: Mrs. T. P.
could pull the world into a second World War,
G., C. W. C. (a frequent contributor), E. A. M,
the cook book reflected the spirit of American
Mrs. T. P. I., and Emma I.
women. Despite depressions and demagogues
The cook book boasted an “international” flathey were still putting food on the table and
vor, on pages 18-23 which were enlivened with
members of the Catholic Women’s Club of
Spanish, Italian, French and German recipes.
Savannah were busy recording favorite
The book strove for a universal appeal as it
“receipts” in a slim 45-page cook book.
informed readers about diets suitable for those
A copy of this book of recipes was recently
with diabetes, those on light, liquid, or soft diets
donated to Diocesan Archives by Joseph Ebberand—more ominously—for those requiring a
wein, son of the late Anne Ebberwein, a
special typhoid diet. There were suggestions
longtime member of the Savannah
for preparation of foods for the sick: cream
Catholic Women’s Club. Founded in
lemonade, junket, beef tea, cracker gruel,
1916 “to promote the social and inteloyster broth and baked custard.
lectual standing of its members and to
Readers were given a generous serving
advance philanthropic and educational
of dishes designed for breakfast, dinner,
work according to Catholic principles,”
luncheon or special occasions. A “Child’s
the club was well-known to
Birthday Supper” menu offered: Egg Balls
Savannahians. The wide range of
Rolled in Tissue Paper, Chopped
advertisers sponsoring their book indi- Rita H. DeLorme Chicken Sandwiches, Plain Bread and
cated that the economy was humming along
Butter Sandwiches, Tiny Sponge Cakes, Ice
despite occasional dips, though the 2” by 2 ½”
Cream Wafers, Mints, Salted Almonds and
inch size of many of its ads reflected the lingerCocoa. The menu for a Home Wedding included
ing austerity of the times.
Julienne Soup, Chicken a la King, Duchess
The 1935-36 Cook Book by members of the
Potatoes, Peas, Olives , Rolls, Lobster Salad,
Catholic Women’s Club featured recipes and
Cheese Straws, Mint Ice, Macaroons and Coffee.
measures, menus for assorted occasions and a
After Prohibition
variety of household tips, although one of these
Having emerged from the era prohibiting the
tips offered some questionable advice: “To judge
sale and imbibing of alcohol, pages in the cook
an oven’s heat, try the oven every ten minutes
book were free to advertise “New Orleans Jax,
with a piece of paper. If too hot, the paper will
the Best Beer in Town” and the Pinkussohn
blaze up or blacken. When the paper becomes
Cigar Company’s Sterling Beer. Among eating
dark brown, darker than ordinary meat pie crust,
places advertising in the book were Kehoe’s
the oven is fit for small pastry. When light
Barbecue and Sandwiches, Hirsch’s Kosher
brown, the color of nice pastry, it is ready for
Delicatessen, The Rathskeller and the Triple
tarts. When the paper turns dark yellow, you can
“XXX” Thirst Station which offered “good eats
bake bread, large meat pies, or pound cakes. If it
and drinks” at its Victory Drive location.
is just tinged, the oven is fit for sponge cake and
To assist those trying out the fish recipes on
meringue.”
pages 25-26, the cook book helpfully listed
Contributors
seafood sources such as Louis C. Mathews (“If
Among those supplying culinary recipes and
It Swims, We Handle It.” “If it’s to be had, we
tips for the cook book were Mrs. A. Goette, Mrs.
have it.”), L. P. Maggioni & Co (“Largest
E. Cafiero, Mrs. T. P. Wright, Mrs. J. E. HenPackers of Shrimp and Oysters in the World”),
derson (member of the club’s executive board),
and Louis Rayola, Seafood Dealer. Member
Mrs. Joseph M. Alvarez, Miss Maud Cox, Mrs.
Mrs. Jas. E. Henderson submitted recipes for her
J. F. McDonough, Mrs. J. H. Hennessey, Mrs.
Cream Puffs (2½ cups water, 2 cups flour, 1 cup
Thomas F. Walsh and Miss Nellie Lynch.
butter and five eggs) and her equally rich
Orange Layer Cake (6 eggs, 1 cup butter, 1 ½
cups Dixie Crystal sugar, 1 cup milk, 3 cups sifted flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder - plus
ingredients for the cake’s icing). In line with
AUGUSTA
recipes like hers were ads for Annette’s and
Sunday, 10:00 a.m. WAGT-TV
Foremost Dairies and Gernatt’s Creamery.
The Savannah Gas Company sponsored a large
SAVANNAH
advertisement: “Cook with Gas. Gas is faster.
Saturday, 6:00 p.m.
Cable 7
Gas is clean and is easier to control. The operatSunday, 5:30 a.m.
WTOC-TV
ing cost is low. For cooking, water heating,
TV Mass Schedule
Cookbook courtesy of the Diocesan Archives.
T
Page 27 of the 1935-36 Cook Book by members
of Catholic Womens Club, Savannah
refrigeration, space heating or whenever controlled heat is required, gas is the ideal fuel.”
(The gas range, once the preferred cooking stove
of the early 20th century, was facing competition
from the electric range as more homes became
electrified.)
Window on the past
As a window on the past, the Catholic
Women’s Club Cook Book reveals the effort
women and their families were making to lead
healthy lives. True, some recipes in the book
were a little questionable. The so-called “Poor
Man’s Rice Pudding” required four tablespoons
of rice, a whole quart of milk, four tablespoons
of Dixie Crystal sugar (a product advertised in
the cook book), and one tablespoon of butter. A
“Turtle Egg Cake” recipe included, besides
flour, butter, milk, lemon extract and sugar, a
total of 13 turtle eggs beaten well - three whole
eggs, and10 yolks.
Most recipes in the 1935-36 cook book produced by the Catholic Women’s Club of
Savannah were more down to earth and environmentally friendly. As such, they offered varied
and wholesome fare for people who had survived the Great Depression and would, too soon,
face yet another World War.
Columnist RITA H. DELORME
is a volunteer in the Diocesan
Archives. She can be reached
at [email protected].