1. home and garden
2. home improvement and repair
3. plumbing

WHAT TO & HOW TO:
An additional circuit will have to be run from the new major appliance back to the main panel. If there is no expansion room
within the panel, a heavy up with greater distribution capability or the addition of a sub panel may be the only remedy.
K. GROUND BONDING STRAP/ROD MISSING/LOOSE:
The grounding wire (should not be spliced) in the main panel connects the neutral bus bat, the panel enclosure, and all
other ground wires. When remote sub panels are utilized, the ground wire must not be connected to the neutral in the sub
panel while the ground wires should all be securely mounted on their own bus bar. The bonding screw on the neutral bus
bar of a sub panel should be removed. The grounding wire that runs from the ground bus within the distribution panel must
be connected to a proper ground.
Traditionally, the ground has been the metal plumbing supply pipe feeding the house from the main line in the street.
Plumbers often remove these ground wires from pipes to work on them. Quite often, they forget to replace them when the
work is completed. Often too, an effective ground is lost when old street plumbing line is rejuvenated with a new plastic one.
The electric code also specifies that it must run to a grounding rod driven approximately 8 feet into the earth. Sometimes
work around the exterior of a house cuts the strap or wire to the grounding rod. Occasionally the rod is snapped or loosened
in the earth.
WHAT TO & HOW TO:
The grounding of an electrical system must be maintained. If a wire is found loose or missing, it simply must be replaced.
The same applies for grounding rods on the exterior of houses. Splicing of ground wires is theoretically not permitted but
occurs frequently. If the ground wires are not bonded to the neutral bus bar at the main panel, the breaker/fuses will not
trip/blow when a short circuit occurs. When the ground and neutrals are not isolated from each other at a sub panels, then
both wires will carry current back to the main panel. This can cause possible arcing in concealed spaces and the electrical
energizing of pipes and other bonded components. This could be a severe shock hazard. Amateurs beware: Repairs and
modifications to ground systems should be made by professional electricians.
L. EXTERIOR/INTERIOR CONTACT HAZARD:
Wires strung through the air around homes are supposed to be insulated and at least 12 feet off the ground. Power wires
entering houses should also be well insulated and kept clear of antennas and the like. Wires strung through trees are a real
danger, especially when tree pruning.
Driveways next to houses with a meter projecting into the drive area can sometimes be hazardous. Open junction boxes
with bared wires or uninsulated cables that are readily accessible can be interior contact hands. Generally, outside cables
should be no less than 18 feet above traffic, 12 feet above a yard or driveway, 10 feet where attached to structures,
(clearance is needed above porches and desks) 4 feet away from roofs, and 3 feet away from windows and doors.
WHAT TO: HOW TO:
Notify the electric utility company of poorly insulated wiring. Avoid placing roof top antennas near electric service entrance
lines. Make sure wiring connecting buildings or external fixtures is the right type, and done according to code. Buried wiring
is supposed to be at least 12 inches and sometimes 18 inches deep so that it won’t be accidentally struck with shallow
digging. Replace or raise low slung lines. Shield any interior contact hazards or replace defective wiring.
PLUMBING:
A. WELL/SEPTIC FAILURE EQUIPMENT OUT REPAIRS:
If well equipment is nonfunctional, very little of the plumbing systems can be checked. Repairs may be expensive and the replacement
of a well may be impossible. Always check the condition of wells and private water systems with professionals and local authorities.
WARNING: Visual home inspections cannot shed much light on the problems that private water supply systems may have. Well
equipment may need a variety of repairs.
Electrical connections may be improper or unsafe, vents may be missing or improperly placed, pressure tanks may rust and leak,
equipment may freeze and burst, seals or other leaks may occur, etc. NOTE: With a visual home inspection, no representation of
unseen areas is made or assumed. Make repairs as soon as possible, or face the likelihood of greater expense. Well water pressure is
generally adjusted at the pressure switch. Pressures are generally set to coordinate with the recovery of the well and the piping system;
this is best left for professionals. The Environment Protection Agency estimates that approximately half of existing septic systems fail
at least once a year. Modern wells and septic systems often are more complex and expensive than their problematic, older
counterparts.
Today, wells tend to be mechanically drilled to as opposed to hand dug, and use submersible pumps for high production and
dependability. There is a growing concern about water quality, so the types and varieties of treatment processes are on the rise. The
50% yearly failure rate of septic systems is no longer tolerable in populations of higher density living. Modern, on-site waste disposal
systems are more adaptive to soil, and often require greater percolation rates and/or surface areas than those of earlier design. Some
utilize mechanical pumps and aerators. Failures of sanitary systems will jeopardize sanitary conditions and must be promptly repaired.
WARNING: MANY FAILURES ARE UNDETECTABLE DURING A VISUAL INSPECTION.
Well casings can crack, electrical faults can exist underground, submersible pumps can fail, check valves may stick, electrical controls
may malfunction, storage tanks may get “waterlogged” as air gets absorbed into the water, and water softeners may need backflushing,
chemicals added, or materials changed. Septic tanks may not be tanks at all, but actually leaching pits. Tank “tees” that attached to the
septic tank inlet and outlet pipes can break. Diverter boxes can split, break or become blocked. Leaching trenches may actually be
beds or pits. Sewage may break to the surface or seep to groundwater. Trenches may collapse, grease traps may clog, and any number
of other problems may occur. It is highly likely that these problems would not be detected during a visual home inspection. These are
septic systems that contain a deep cistern, to collect water from the septic tanks. These cisterns then pump the liquid to a higherelevation leaching system. Often they have two pumps controlled by a series of floats within the system. Quite often, the originally
installed set of pumps is low quality and fail within 5 years. The cistern usually has an interior control panel that alternates operation
of the pumps. It also contains a high water level alarm. Cisterns can ingest water from saturated soil, pumps or floats can fail, and the
control panel and associated wiring can sometimes have problems.
WHAT TO & HOW TO:
Wells and septic systems may have idiosyncrasies that only the well or septic system installer understands. Find out who designed and
installed the facilities and consult with them regarding any irregularities or suspected deficiencies. Always check with the local
environment department and request an on-site inspection. If they don’t provide such service, hire a professional who specializes in
this work. DO NOT RELY ON CHEMICALS TO “CURE” SEPTIC SYSTEM PROBLEMS. While there is a chance that acid
burning progressively clogged mats along trenches will provide relief, this is a job for a very experienced expert. Chemicals poured
through house drains and wastes are not generally considered to be beneficial.
B. GRAY/BLACK WATER SEPTIC REMAINS? :
Older houses with private waste disposal systems often have two septic pits or systems. One handles “gray” water from the kitchens
and a second “black” water system handles bacteria laden wastes from bathrooms. Older gray water systems often had grease traps to
prevent clogging of septic systems. As roads and sewage treatment plants reached houses with private septic systems the houses were
often connected to the public sewage system. Sometimes parts of a house are left connected to the old systems. This often happens
when it is assumed that the kitchen drains to the same system as baths. In addition, occasionally the municipal sewer lines is at too
high of an elevation to allow lower level baths to be connected. This condition can sometimes be inferred with a visual home
inspection, but often there are inadequate clues or information to determine exactly.
WHAT TO AND HOW TO:
Gather as much information as you can about the existing system or systems. Ask the seller specific questions in writing. Check with
the local environment office and confer with anyone nearby who has converted a private system to a public one. Usually a basement
bath can be retrofitted or drained by gravity to an extractor pump. This can lift sewage waste to a higher elevation drain line that will
flow by gravity to the public sewer in the street. Such a pump may cost several thousand dollars to install and is a job for a
professional.
C. EXTRACTOR PUMP FAILURE SEAL:
Extractor pumps are “grinding type” pumps that receive waste on lower levels and discharge it to gravity waste lines at higher
elevations. They require service from time to time and occasionally fail. Usually, they operate via float activated switches. Check
valves can fail and result in frequent on/off cycling of a pump which can burn out a pump motor. The top of the extractor pump tank
should be kept sealed to prevent gases and bacteria from entering the house.
D. VERY/LOW FLOW ½ INCH PIPE/CLOG/KINK:
The amount of water available from any particular tap varies with the water pressure, and the interior area of the piping to the tap.
Low flow or a low volume through a tap usually indicates that the interior of the pipes is small. This can occur in a number of
different ways. The main water line from the street can develop a kink or crushed point, caused by improper pipe trench, backfilling
techniques. Kinks also occur due to the settlement of a house. Often this will split or tear a pipe right at the exterior foundation wall
line.
A partially closed main shutoff valve, ½ inch supply mains, galvanized pipes with heavy clogging inside can all lead to low flow at
individual taps. NOTE: Supply mains are usually ¾ inch in diameter with individual taps of ½ inch. Usually the worst condition is
observed at the upper fixtures when the other taps are opened. This is usually due to a flow restriction in the entire system and a
lessening of supply and flow when more than one tap is opened. With galvanized pipe, often the hot side flows worse than the cold
side, apparently due to increased chemical activity in higher temperature water.
WHAT TO: HOW TO:
Replacing the kinked section of pipe repairs kinks in pipes. Clogged galvanized pipes are generally replaced, usually in three distinct
steps. First the accessible basement pipes are replaced, then the street line, and lastly, the vertical lines. Replacing vertical pipes or
“risers” is often delayed until bathrooms are updated since it often involves tearing into finished walls. If a house has a short section of
½ inch supply lines, these can usually be replaced with ¾ inch lines to reduce restriction. Houses that use all ½ inch lines and have
poor water pressure, should have supply lines completely replaced with ¾ inch diameter pipes.
E. FROZEN SYSTEM PRESENT/PAST? :
Frozen plumbing systems don’t always leak immediately. Almost any pipe will burst or split with a hard freeze but some pipe types
are more resilient than other are. Some will bulge once, which is typical of copper tubing and then split the next time. Some may even
tolerate a short freeze with no apparent damage. This is typical of galvanized steel pipes and some plastic types. Previously frozen
systems that have been repaired may contain hidden flaws and vulnerabilities. Likewise, DWV fittings or valves may crack and go
undiscovered for long periods of time due to their very low internal pressure.
INSPECTION LIMITATION WARNING: Frozen system damage can never be completely determined with a visual home inspection.
Repairing the damage to frozen plumbing systems without addressing the causes often results in future freeze-ups.
WHAT TO AND HOW TO:
A past frozen and drained system often must be recharged with water under pressure or isolated and pressurized with air to locate
leakage. The supply pipes should be repaired first and then the fixtures should be operated for long periods in an effort to locate any
DWV pipe damage. Check all valves and closely inspect the undersides of all fixtures and traps. Inspect along the sewer stack and
around the base of wall partitions it passes through.
F. FREEZE VULNERABLE PIPES PUMP:
Some pipes and pumps are vulnerable to freezing due to their location. Examples of freeze vulnerable pipes and pumps are:
• Exterior pumps close to grade
• Pump discharge pipes that can trap water
• Pipes beneath a bathroom that has been retrofitted into an enclosed porch
• Pipes beneath baths located above an overhanging soffit
• Any pipe located in a ventilated crawl space
• Any supply pipe located within an outside wall
Naturally, pumps that are vulnerable to freezing cannot be depended upon. Frozen pipes tend to split or burst and spill water when
they thaw. Damage from frozen pipes in American homes costs hundreds of millions each year. Pipes, pumps, or storage tanks that are
exposed to wind currents or drafts are particularly vulnerable. This does not necessarily mean that a freeze is imminent. However, you
should be aware of the situation and be prepared to take preventative or corrective action.
WHAT TO: HOW TO:
Preventing outside pumps from freezing is largely a matter of sheltering them sufficiently and/or keeping water moving through them.
In many cases, supplementary heating is necessary. Exterior sumps should be placed below the frost line and protectively covered. If a
hard freeze is expected, temporary insulation over a pump is advisable. Check valves that hold water in discharge pipes require
modification if freezing conditions are expected. Standing water can freeze and burst the pipe or block the pipe discharge. Removing
check valves should be considered if an unattended sump discharge is vulnerable to freezing. Pipes that are vulnerable to freezing
should be drained if other protection has not been provided. Sometimes a sheet of plywood or even a pile of leaves placed against the
windward side of a wall containing a vulnerable pipe can prevent a freeze. It is generally only considered safe to close the vents of
DRY crawl spaces under houses. Closing the crawl space vents can save on utilities and prevent frozen pipes. WARNING: NEVER
BLOCK THE VENTILATION TO A DAMP OR WET CRAWL SPACE. THIS WILL PROBABLY CAUSE WOOD ROT AND
SERIOUS STRUCTURAL DAMAGE.
G. SHOWER/TUB LEAK SPLIT? RUSTED:
Leakage from showers and tubs is common. Most frequently the leakage occurs around the hardware penetrations through the tile
work, around tile edges, or when water gets outside the tub and seeps through the tile flooring. TILE FLOORS ARE NOT
WATERPROOF. IF WATER GETS ON THE FLOOR IT WILL MOST LIKELY SEEP THROUGH. Fiberglass tubs and baths
occasionally split. (Other materials like pre cast shower bases fall into the same category). A heavy person in a poorly supported tub or
shower can create a crack that is nearly impossible to detect visually. Often the fixture will not leak unless a heavy person is in it. This
is often true for ceramic tile shower pans as well. Since the tile and grouting is not waterproof, a membrane is used beneath it to
provide a waterproof seal. In the past, the most popular membrane material was sheet lead.
Today a plastic material is more commonly used. It is expensive to tear up tile and replace a lead pan. It is often possible (provided no
substantial wood rotting has occurred) to simply overlay the existing tile work with a plastic membrane, raise the drain, and overlay
the membrane with new tile. This alternative repair can be done only once since the drain must be raised. The cost of this method is
usually about half the cost of complete tear out. Prefabricated metal showers eventually rust around drains presenting a high
probability of injury. A rusted fixture should not be used. Drain and vent pipes that are connected to the back of tubs utilize
“compression seals”. These seal the pipes tightly to the tub. Normally, the overflow strainer is passed through the tub wall and
threaded into the special fitting on the exterior of the tub. When these two are tightened together, a gasket seal will be compressed to
seal the tub/plumbing penetration. Often, on older tubs, the overflow compression seal has deteriorated and cracked. There is often a
leakage stain on the back of a tub indicating seal failure. Whenever water passes through an overflow, leakage may occur.
INSPECTION LIMITATION WARNING: Shower pans often leak intermittently, and frequently, a leak cannot be definitively
determined via a visual home inspection. Perform a clogged drain test and return to inspect for leaks twelve or more hours later.
HOW TO AND WHAT TO:
Always suspect tile leakage when stains or water appear beneath baths. Caulking with silicone type caulk behind escutcheon covers,
around hardware, and all around the tub edges solves problems. Naturally the tile grout must also be kept in good condition. Shower
head connections that leak and spray water back along the supply pipe can cause water to run down behind tile work. Tile damaged
wallboard is often very difficult to seal. Split, cracked, or broken fixtures, should be replaced.
Leaking ceramic tile shower pans can often be overlaid, but if the supporting wood is rotted, the structural system must be repaired
and the shower base rebuilt. Showers installed over concrete floor systems may not contain a waterproof membrane between tile and
the concrete; this is undetectable with a visual inspection. Rusted metal showers can often be brushed, scraped or ground down and
then painted with inhibiting paints. Sharp edges must be removed to avoid the possibility of cuts. If a stain is seen behind an overflow
fitting, repairs are usually needed. Generally, overflow and drain compression seals are replaced at the same time. Caulking around an
overflow seal will often provide relief since the fitting is under no significant pressure, and caulking is the least expensive.
H. SUPPLY/WASTE CROSS CONNECTION
Pollution of water supplies can occur when there is a cross connection between the water supply piping and the drain/waste piping.
This type of health hazard can result in serious, life threatening problems. When the two types of pipe are directly connected, a
potential hazard exists. This occurs when spigots extend below the flood rims of sinks, bowls, etc. heating a swimming pool via a
domestic hot water heater may constitute a cross connection.
WHAT TO AND HOW TO:
Professional repairs should be made immediately.
I.
TILE REPAIR WALL PROTECTION:
Leakage around tile joints is extremely common. When tile is set in mastic against gypsum drywall, maintenance of tile grout and
caulking is more critical. Water is often drawn up into the backing board where it loosens the tile. Mastic is considered to be watersoluble and will allow water to pass through it, deteriorating the drywall. When tile that is attached to gypsum wallboard is in need of
repair, the gypsum board should be replaced with a more durable material. When a tub is converted to a shower, the surrounding wall
surfaces must be protected from water. Often waterproofing is applied but only to a minimum height which readily allows seepage
behind materials. Most building codes require waterproofing material to extend a minimum of six feet above the floor level.
Waterproof materials should be at least as high as the shower nozzle.
Waterproof protection can be accomplished with several materials and methods. The least expensive materials are the smoothed faced,
thin, masonite backed, board materials. These materials must be well sealed at the edges and don’t last that long. Eventually their
surfaces wear and admit water. Heavier board materials that are rigid last longer. Tile is usually best installed using the “thin set”
method. This mortar is epoxy modified and does not tend to disintegrate with moisture. A thin backing of fiberglass, reinforced
cement board behind thin set tile, will provide a very durable shower wall protection.
WHAT TO AND HOW TO:
Using a fiberglass cement board as replacement for gypsum board, and an epoxy modified mortar rather than mastic, will almost
always make a more permanent repair. Always save any tiles that fall off or loosen from the wall. Soaking them in water overnight
will usually loosen mastic adhesives and prepare them for reuse. This will avoid having to search for matching tiles. Shower surrounds
must always be kept well caulked and grouted. Older sheet goods can absorb water through their surfaces and should be replaced.
Problems with wallboard or supporting surface materials should always be repaired prior to any tile repairs.
J. TEMPRATURE/PRESSURE VALVE NEEDED/RELOCATE:
Any sealed vessel that holds and heats water must be equipped with valves that will automatically open if too much pressure builds
up. The lack of, or malfunction of this type valve as caused disastrous explosions. Residential boilers and water heaters must be fitted
with these valves. WARNING: THESE VALVES ARE NOT INSPECTED DURING A VISUAL HOME INSPECTION BECAUSE
THEY CAN DRAIN A LOT OF WATER FROM A SYSTEM, AND/OR CAN STICK OPEN. If a pressure valve is included, it
should be mounted as close to the top of the boiler or hot water heater tank as possible. Frequently, older valves stick and become
useless without warning. Often these valves are never checked during the life of the equipment. The general practice is to replace a
valve that drips water or is otherwise defective. Replacement valves should only be used if they can be adapted to existing equipment.
Discharge from the pressure relief valve is to be directed through a pipe that has a diameter equal to the pressure relief valve discharge
port. This pipe needs to run to point within six inches of the floor and out of any area of normal foot traffic. Discharge pipe should be
made of metal but some jurisdictions will allow certain plastic pipe to be used.
WARNING: The “tankless coils” within boilers that are used to heat domestic water, frequently have no relief valve to protect against
pressure or temperature extremes. These water-heating circuits should be upgraded to include a pressure relief valve or a combination
pressure and temperature relief valve. Old “tankless coils” that are simply valved off for occasional supplementary use, are dangerous
if the water is not drained. Trapped water can flash to steam and rupture the system. Disconnect and drain any “tankless coil” that is
not being used. Install relief valves on any in operation. The location of relief valves is also important. The relief valve should be
located on the appliance, or on the outgoing hot water pipe, and as near the coil as possible.
K. DWV/SUPPLY PIPES LEAKING/BROKEN LEAD?:
Various plumbing system pipes and fittings are grouped into those which supply water to fixtures, and those that drain water away and
vent sewage gases. Supply pipes are under pressure and must be carefully assembled to resist pressure leakage. The drain, waste, vent
system (DWV) within a property is normally sized and inclined to promote drainage and avoid clogging. Connections in a DWV
system do not have to resist great internal pressures. Older drain/waste/vent systems sometimes contain sections or lengths of lead
piping which are vulnerable to leakage.
Many geographic areas do not have plumbers skilled in making lead piping repairs. Some jurisdictions even require their removal as a
part of any renovation. Such sections or lengths of piping will not generally be noticeable with a standard visual home inspection.
WHAT TO AND HOW TO:
Leaks in supply systems should be immediately repaired since large quantities of water can quickly destroy surrounding areas. DWV
leakage can damage properties and have added health and sanitation risks. While a highly skilled homeowner might be able to repair
most leakage, a professional plumber is the appropriate person to do the repair work.
L. BACKVENT MISSING/LOCATION:
The backventing of plumbing systems is designed to facilitate drainage and allow the escape of gases within the disposal system.
When a fixture drains or flushes, air is usually drawn down the backvent with a siphoning effect. If the backvent is missing, the wrong
size, or too far away form the fixture, gurgling noises may be heard or sewer gases may be admitted to the house through the fixture.
Occasionally, a backvent is terminated within an attic rather than continuing through and above the roof. Sometimes vents are
installed on the exterior walls of houses, in which case, they should terminate above the roof. Old farmhouses and remodeled
basements with retrofitted bathrooms, commonly have improper backventing.
Laundry equipment moved to new locations within a house is also likely to be improperly back-vented. Plumbing code is somewhat
complex; few amateurs and only some “professional” plumbers actually master it. Some jurisdictions allow for installation of
mechanical vent apparatus when conditions merit. Mechanical vents allow household air to enter the pipe and promote flushing. This
theoretically blocks any gases from entering the house through the mechanical vent. INSPECTION LIMITATION WARNING: Often,
details regarding the vent stack, design, and installation, will not be accessible for inspection and can only be surmised.
WHAT TO AND HOW TO:
Mistakes in backventing are usually easily accommodated. If back-vents are missing or if sewer gases seem to be seeping into the
house, corrective work is highly recommended. Often a sewer gas odor is due to a trap that has dried out, or a failed wax seal under a
toilet. The local plumbing inspector should be consulted. This type of repair is best left to professionals.
BRASS PIPE/DEPOSITS COPPER/LEAD ACID:
Brass is a mixture of copper and zinc (red brass has a higher copper content than yellow brass) and may show white mineral deposits
on its surface when it is near failure. Dark spots (copper colored) indicates that advance corrosion (leaching out zinc) and failure is
near. Threaded areas weaken and repair efforts often fail when the pipe crumbles. Brass fittings and pipe sections are usually replaced
with copper when repairs are made. Copper tubing is deteriorated by acidic water. The acidic water tends to consume tubing from the
inside out. When acidic water is present, and copper tubing is your preferred choice, only thick wall copper tubing should be
considered. The tubing comes in three wall thicknesses, K, L, and M.
Type K has the thickest wall while M has the thinnest. Water treatment should be considered when water is highly acidic. Copper
tubing that has been heavily consumed from within may actually be “squeezable” with a strong hand grip. Tubing in this condition
should be considered for replacement. If the tubing joints have been soldered with 50/50 solder, there is the likelihood of a higher lead
content in water. THE COMBINATION OF LEAD PIPING AND ACID WATER CAN YIELD HIGH LEAD CONTENT IN THE
WATER SYSTEM. Old lead lines in houses are usually on city systems and not as much cause for concern with regard to acid water.
Public systems are often treated and would generally only be acidic under some strange condition. INSPECTION LIMITATION
WARNING: A visual inspection will not be able to determine the properties of the water. For a more practical knowledge have water
tested at a private laboratory.
WHAT TO AND HOW TO:
Cutting out a section of suspected brass or copper piping is a good idea. Often a sloppy plumber using a high acid content solder will
not have wiped his soldering work down well and the remaining acid trailings will show “green” around fittings. If the tubing feels
solid to the touch, wash off suspect areas and reinspect in several months. Water treatments are available to neutralize acidic
conditions and are highly recommended.
ACTUAL DEFECTS TO CONSIDER…
What's wrong with this water heater?
The old draft diverter, or hood, was left in place when a new water heater with its own draft hood was
installed, creating a common double draft hood configuration which can easily lead to the spillage of flue
gases into the living area.
There are at least 5 things wrong with this hot water heater - do you see them?
1.Aluminum foil is not a good vent pipe repair material.
2.Blue stove pipe is not approved for gas appliance venting.
3.Water heaters require only one draft diverter.
4.PTR valves require discharge piping.
5.In seismic areas, flexible water supply piping is preferred, along with adequate seismic restraints.
The importance of looking inside of electrical panels cannot be emphasized enough.
These connections show corrosion. The breaker is damaged from excessive heat, probably caused by
arcing, from a loose connection.
Another example of electrical panel issues.
The connector at the left is improperly double wired. The neutral white wire at the right is damaged from
excessive heat and the wire is corroded at the connector. There is an improper connection at the lower
right. This panel has a substantial amount of combustible debris waiting to provide kindling for a fire
when those connections really heat up.
Here is a common electrical defect
Overfusing. Installing oversized breakers can create a fire hazard. The small No.14 wire must be
provided with a 15-amp circuit breaker to keep the wire from overheating and causing a fire hazard.
Here is an example of a toilet waste pipe incorrectly installed.
Poorly supported floor joists can cause the floor to sag and may crack floor tiles. The standard rule limits
the notch size to 1/6th of the joist depth.
Name this roof framing defect
Rafters should be installed to oppose each other directly along the roof ridge. Offsetting the rafters can
cause sagging in the roof framing.
Here is a common heating system defect.
A register has been improperly installed in the cold air return ducting. Air which is drawn into this
register by the blower will lower the air pressure around the furnace and may cause flue gases, which rise
by gravity, to spill from the vent. These flue gases can then be easily drawn into the furnace and
distributed through the living area, creating a hazardous condition. The furnace filter is also loose and
should be properly secured. (The cover for the blower compartment has been removed for inspection.)
Flue Gas Spillage at Furnace
Fog on inspection mirror indicates leakage between draft hood and sheet metal furnace. This connection
should be properly sealed by a qualified heating contractor to prevent flue gas entry into the living space.
Rust is a good indicator…
These rust stains likely indicate substantial flue gas spillage which is a serious potential health hazard.
Foggy mirror shows spillage
Water is a byproduct of natural gas combustion. The spilling flue gasses cause moisture to form on this
inspection mirror. These gases likely contain significant amounts of carbon monoxide and other
hazardous gases.
Termites are social insects with a caste system that includes reproductives, workers and soldiers. Each caste has a unique role in the
colony. The soldiers defend the colony against invaders (typically ants) and the reproductives yield new colonies. What makes
termites a concern for humans is the worker caste, which bore through wood by digesting cellulose material from structural timbers.
A colony begins when the primary reproductives, also called the king and queen, mate and lay eggs. The eggs hatch into nymphs. The
queen determines which caste the nymph will belong to based on the needs of the colony. She then secretes chemicals that transform
the nymph into a soldier, worker or reproductive. The termite's type/caste is determined by the secreted chemical.
While there are thousands of different termite species, there are three major species that are of economic significance in the United
States…
Subterranean termites
Subterranean termites are the most common termite in the United States. A mature colony has from 60K
to 300K workers. The average colony can consume a one foot length of 2x4 in 118 days. Subterranean
termites can enter a home through a crack or void as small as 1/32" in the slab or wall, any lumber in
contact with the soil, an earth filled stoop, expansion joints, behind brick veneer, and through rigid foam
insulation in contact with the soil.
Subterranean termites have three primary needs: food, which to the Subterranean termite is anything made of cellulose (i.e. wood,
cardboard, books); a constant source of moisture, and shelter which is provided to the soil.
Subterranean termite workers are creamy white in appearance and the most plentiful caste in the colony. They forage for food to feed
themselves and the rest of the colony. They create tunnels from mud (commonly called shelter tubes) to move above ground.
Subterranean termite reproductives, commonly called swarmers, are the winged members of the colony most commonly seen in the
spring when they mate. The entire purpose of the swarmer is to create a new colony. Termite swarmers are often confused with a
flying ant. Some common distinctions between the two are: ants have different size wings and few veins whereas a termite swarmer's
wings are identical with numerous veins. Ant antennae are elbowed, while termite swarmer antennae are straight. The midsection of
the ant is pinched whereas the termite midsection is not.
Subterranean termite soldiers protect the colony against attack. They use their large heads to block holes in the colonies shelter tube
and their strong mandibles to crush their enemies.
Carpenter Ants
The carpenter ant (Camponotus spp.) hollows out wood to create nests called galleries. Though they do
not eat the wood, the boring activity can lead to structural damage in wood components. The by-product of
the boring is called frass and looks similar to sawdust or pencil shavings. Frass is the most common
evidence of carpenter ant infestation.
Carpenter ants are similar in appearance to the common pavement ants, but can be
distinguished by certain physical characteristics. The carpenter ant has a single pinched node
between the abdomen and the thorax, while most ants have a dual node. In addition, the profile
of the section from the abdomen to the head is almost perfectly rounded. Carpenter ants are
especially common in the Northwest and the Pacific Northwest.
Carpenter Bees
The carpenter bee (Xylocopa spp.) hollows out wood to create nests called galleries. The carpenter
bee does not live in the nest but stays in the nest to rear their young. The nest opening is a perfect
half-inch circle. The nest itself may extend anywhere from four (4) inches (for a new nest with one bee) to
10 feet (for older nests with several bees). Carpenter bees generally nest in weathered or unpainted wood. They lay their eggs in the
nest and seal them with a chewed wood pulp plug. The bees then emerge from the hole in the Spring.
Powder Post Beetles / Wood Destroying Fungis
This term is used in the broad sense but it encompasses three closely-related families: the Lyctid or true powder post beetle, the
Bostricid or false powder post beetle and the Anobiid or Deathwatch beetle.
The beetle cycle begins when an adult lays an egg. The eggs hatch into larva. The larva eat the wood and digest it. The larva turns into
pupa. Finally, the adult emerges to mate and the cycle repeats. Wood destroying beetles are usually transported in building materials,
furniture and other wood products. The most common evidence of a powder post beetle infestation is a talcum powder-like substance
know as frass. This frass falls from exit holes made by the beetles. An active infestation will reveal brilliant white frass (a color
similar to that of sawdust from a freshly cut Christmas tree). Yellow to brown frass indicates an inactive or dormant infestation
Wood Destroying Fungus
Fungus (fungi, plural) is a plant that lacks chlorophyll. Unable to synthesize their own food, they feed off of cells in the wood. The
fungi secrete enzymes that break down to wood (into usable food) and can significantly reduce the strength of the wood. It is
estimated that Wood-Decay Fungi (found throughout the United States) causes as much, if not more, damage to homes as termites.
While the average moisture content of wood is between 13-17 percent, fungus generally occurs when the wood moisture content
exceeds 20 percent, coupled with mild temperatures.
Non-Decay Fungi. Sap-staining fungi leave wood with a bluish, bluish-black, gray or brown stain color. Surface-staining fungi (mold
and mildew) leave the surface of the wood with a powdery or fuzzy appearance that varies in color. Though sap and surface-staining
fungi do not significantly reduce the structural strength of wood, they are considered precursors to wood-decay fungi. White pocket
rot produces small pits in wood and is only active in living trees.
Wood-Decay Fungi. White rot leaves wood with a bleached appearance and a spongy and
stringy texture. Brown rot leaves wood with a dark brown, checkered appearance and a brittle
texture. Note: wood that exhibits brown rot has lost its structural integrity and is easily crumbled.
Water-conducing fungus or "dry rot" produces a decay similar to brown rot, but may vary in color.
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