1. pets
2. dogs

How to Care for Your Dog
2013
Table of Contents
Training ............................................................................................................................... 3
The Basics ....................................................................................................................... 3
Crating............................................................................................................................. 6
Walking your Dog on a Leash ........................................................................................ 8
House Training Your Puppy ......................................................................................... 12
Health ................................................................................................................................ 15
Grooming ...................................................................................................................... 15
Exercise ......................................................................................................................... 17
Taking Care of Your Pet's Teeth................................................................................... 20
The Social Scene ........................................................................................................... 21
Safety ................................................................................................................................ 23
House Proofing ............................................................................................................. 23
Preventing Runaways.................................................................................................... 24
Pet Insurance ................................................................................................................. 25
Training
The Basics
When to begin
Puppy training can begin at an early age, even as young as 812 weeks, and often goes much faster and smoother when
the pup is young. Early training can help with important areas
of puppy learning, including establishing leadership,
socializing, and preventing unruly behaviors.
To successfully train a puppy, it is important to use the correct
training methods. Puppies don’t learn well with forceful
training. In addition, too much force during your puppy’s
formative months can ruin your bond with your pet. Instead
use positive motivation to facilitate-rather than force- the
training process. The biggest motivating factors for training and reinforcing obedient
behavior are food, a favored toy, affection, and social attention.
Here’s the how-to
Generally, the healthiest choice for a reward is the puppy’s own dry food, along with
praise. Special treats are usually not necessary. Training just prior to the puppy’s
routine dinner is an excellent time, as the puppy’s interest in the food will be focused.
Initially, the food reward should be given immediately following every correct response.
As the pup gets better at performing the desired behavior, stop giving a food reward for
less than exact responses, and only reward quick, well-performed responses. Once you
reach your goal, continue to praise for every correct response but only provide the food
reward on an intermittent, random basis. This will render the longest retention of
learning.
Also, remember to use hand signals along with the food rewards. A dog is more likely
to respond to a double signal (verbal and visual) command, rather than only a verbal
command.
Come
Teaching your puppy to come when he is called is quite simple. Hold a piece of dry food
out between your thumb and forefinger, extend it toward the pup, and say his name.
As he approaches you, repeatedly wave your hand toward your chest and say “come.”
This gives your pet both verbal and visual cues to respond to. When he reaches you,
give him the food and, as he eats, quickly take a few steps back and repeat the
procedure.
Sit
To teach your dog to sit on command, start with the puppy in the standing position.
Hold a piece of dry food directly in front of his nose between your thumb and forefinger,
and say the pet’s name. Slowly move the food over the pet’s head so that his nose
points straight up. As the puppy’s nose goes up, his rear end will be leveraged into the
sit position. Say “sit” as he assumes the position and give the food reward. Be careful
not to hold the food lure too high above the pet’s head, or he will jump up for the food.
After some practicing, the pup will automatically sit when you sweep your hand in an
upward movement, even without food.
Lie down
Teaching your pet to lie down on command is easier if the pup is on a smooth surface,
such as tile or linoleum. Begin with the puppy in the sitting position. Hold a piece of
dry food directly in front of his nose. Say the pet’s name and, with a swift movement,
move the food down to the floor directly next to the puppy’s front paws. As the pet
slides into the down position, say “down,” and give the food reward. This command
usually takes a little more patience than the first two. Be careful to move the food to
the floor, right next to the paws. Otherwise if the food is in five inches or more in front
of the pup, he will probably stand up as he tries to get the food. With time, the
downward sweep of your hand by itself will cause the pup to go into the down position.
Stay
The stay command is the most difficult for the puppy to learn. Young puppies don’t like
to sit still for very long and love to follow people. Keeping this in mind will help you
understand your puppy’s actions, and you will be better able to train him. The best time
to begin training is when your puppy is calm, possibly after a long walk or play session.
Start with the puppy in the sitting position. Ask him to sit using a hand and a verbal
signal, but no food. As soon as the puppy is sitting, lean toward him, make fixed eye
contact, extend the palm of your hand toward the pup, and in a firm voice say “stay.”
Wait only one second, then return to your dog, calmly praise him, and give the food
reward while the dog is still sitting. Repeat the command.
Many owners will immediately walk away after giving the command, triggering the
young pet to follow. Gradually, you can request that the pup stay for longer and longer
periods. If the pet strays from eye contact, calmly repeat “stay” in a serious tone as you
lean toward him.
Once the pet will successfully stay for ten seconds at one step away, you can start
working on the distance. Slowly increase distance and time until your pet fully
understands the concept.
Additional tips
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Remember that patience and consistency are key!
On days when the pet seems fidgety and has a short attention span, keep
the training session short and stop before the pup begins ignoring
commands.
Start the training in a quiet area. When the puppy’s responses to commands
become dependable, move the training to environments with more
distractions. Be sure the pet knows one command before proceeding to the
next.
Tone of voice is important. When teaching “come,” “sit,” and “down,” use a
happy, high-pitched tone of voice. This will help motivate the pet to move.
“Stay” requires a slow, deep-toned command.
Avoid repeating your command over and over. If your puppy is not taught to
obey on the first command, he will learn that it’s not necessary to obey until
multiple commands are given.
Praise your puppy and say “good dog” whenever you are giving a food
reward. This will reinforce desired behavior and help in training as the food
reward is gradually withdrawn.
Crating
A dog crate correctly used can have advantages to both you
and your dog. From a dog's perspective a crate can be a
very special place. A place of security and privacy which can
satisfy the "den instinct" inherited from his ancestors of long
ago. It is a place of comfort to him where he can be alone
yet not feel lonely. And being portable, he can go along
with the family in familiar surroundings.
For the dog owner crating your dog can have many positive
benefits. When leaving your dog home alone you can be
comforted by the fact that your pet is safe and secure in his
crate. He is protected from the household environment as
well as protecting the household environment from any
damage he may cause (soiling, destroying). This will keep
him from developing those kinds of bad habits.
A crate can also help you housebreak your dog more quickly. A dog will not readily soil
his special place and control is encouraged. A regular routine for outside elimination can
be established.
Crating your dog when traveling is the safest for you and your dog. The dog can travel
without risk of getting loose and the driver will not be dangerously distracted.
*Remember a crate is not for all the time. A dog must have human companionship and
exercise or he will become lonely and express anxiety and depression.*
The most practical type of dog crate is a collapsible wire mesh type available in different
sizes. A crate should be large enough for your dog to stretch out on his side as well as
sit up without hitting his head on the top of the crate. It is always better to have a
crate a little too large than one that is a little too small. Measure your dog from the tip
of his nose to the base of his tail to get an idea of the size he'll need. For puppies, add
12" for future growth.
So that your dog does not feel isolated, the crate should be placed in or as near to a
"people area" as possible. Placing it in a corner and draping a blanket over the sides
and back will give it more of a "den-like" quality.
Crating your puppy
A puppy (8-16 wks) should adapt easily to a crate. Any initial complaining may be due
to the fact that he is learning to accept the controls of his unfamiliar new environment.
The crate will in fact help him adjust more quickly to the world.
Place the crate in a "people area"; free from drafts. For bedding old towels or blankets
are adequate. Also, place an item of your worn clothing in the crate. This will give him
added security and a sense of belonging. Do not feed your puppy in the crate as this
will usually just create a mess.
A crate routine may be established immediately. Crate the puppy regurlarly at 1-2 hour
intervals during the day. His chosen nap period is a good time, or whenever he is left
alone up to 3-4 hours. Give him a chew toy for distraction. At first place his open crate
in a small enclosed area at night time. Have newspapers nearby in case he can't make
it to the door to complain at 5 am and you will know he is not uncomfortable. In time
he will show greater bowel control. When he does not eliminate during the night his
crate is ready to be moved back to its usual day location.
If you choose to or are not able to use a crate permanently, using it for at least 5-6
months or until the dog is past the teething phase would be wise. When transitioning
from a crate leave the crate door open at night and when someone is home during the
day. If in a week or two the dog is reliable when left alone, remove the crate but leave
the bedding in the same spot. A crate can always be easily reintroduced if any
behavioral problems develop in the future.
Crating the adult dog
Introducing a crate to an older dog must be done gradually in a positive and pleasurable
way. Place the crate in a "people area" but with some privacy. Leave the door open
and do not put in any bedding. Encourage the dog to explore the crate by putting
edible treats in the rear of the crate. Praise him when he retrieves them and comes
back out. When he begins to enter with more confidence place his bedding and an
object of your clothing inside. Continue to coax and encourage him to enter the crate
and relax. After several days begin shutting the door briefly while you remain near. As
soon as you feel your dog is consistently remaining quietly in the crate you may leave
him alone. Give him a chew toy or safe bone to occupy him.
Crates are not for all dogs. Some simply can and will not tolerate one. This is seen
more often in adult dogs, especially one of unknown background. If your dog is
repeatedly frantic or depressed when confined to a crate- do not force it!
Walking your Dog on a Leash
Until your dog learns to walk without pulling, all walks are
training sessions. Keep training sessions frequent, short,
and fun for the dog.
Teaching a dog to walk without pulling requires plenty of
rewards. Use highly desirable treats that the dog does not
have access to at other times. Soft treats are best so the
dog can eat them quickly. Most dogs love sliced wieners,
small cubes of cheese, cut-up pieces of cooked chicken,
small chunks of jerky treat and freeze-dried liver.
You’ll be more successful if you find a way to tire the dog
out before taking him for a training walk. Dogs pull in part
because they are filled with excess energy, and unless you
can expend that energy, it will be very hard for your dog to control himself. Play fetch in
the hallway or backyard, play a vigorous game of tug, or drive the dog to the park so he
can play with his buddies before you attempt to teach him to walk nicely on leash.
Walk at a good, quick pace. If the dog is trotting or running, he has less opportunity to
catch a whiff of something enticing, and he is less inclined to stop and eliminate every
few steps. You are far more interesting to the dog when you move quickly.
All dogs need to sniff and eliminate on walks. Some dogs take forever choosing the
exact best spot on which to urinate or defecate! Allow your dog a certain amount of
time, then say, “Okay hurry up,” and give a light tug on the collar. Give him another 30
seconds and repeat, “Okay, let’s walk,” in a firmer tone of voice. Pull the dog away from
the spot and resume walking. This way you are giving your dog a warning—and if he
really wants to urinate in that spot, he knows he has 30 seconds in which to do it!
If you expect your dog to be controlled while walking on leash, you must also expect
him to be controlled before you go for the walk. If your dog gets wildly excited as you
prepare to go for a walk, you need to start your training at this point. Walk to the door
and pick up the leash. If your dog is racing back and forth from you to the door,
barking, whining, spinning, or jumping up, stop and ask your dog to sit. If the dog
continues to be wild, put the leash down and go sit and read the paper. Try again a few
minutes later. Continue until the dog actually does sit. Praise and reach to put the leash
on the dog. If he jumps out of the sit, drop the leash, stand up tall, and say “Sit.” Wait.
When the dog sits, try again. This is tedious training that will make your first few
attempts to go for a walk very taxing on your patience! But eventually you will have a
dog who can sit and wait while you attach his leash to his collar and open the door. The
next step is teaching the dog to walk without pulling on the leash!
Option 1:
Walk in your intended direction. The moment you feel the dog pulling on the leash, stop
dead in your tracks and wait. When the dog stops pulling (maybe he turns to see what
you’re doing), call him back to you. When he comes to you, ask him to sit. When he
does, say “Yes,” give him a treat, and resume walking. With any luck, your dog will look
up at you because of the tasty treat. Immediately say “Yes” and give another treat while
you keep walking. If the dog pulls again, repeat the same steps: stop dead and wait,
when the dog relaxes the pressure on the leash, call him to you, have him sit, say “Yes”
and give a treat, then resume walking. Take every opportunity to reward the dog for
staying next to you and/or looking up at you, while continuing to walk. If you do this
consistently, the dog learns two things: (1) if he stays near you or looks at you, he gets
treats and he gets to keep moving, and (2) if he pulls on the leash, it’s a pain in the butt
because he doesn’t get to keep moving AND he has to come back to you and sit. If you
see that your dog is pulling toward an object to sniff or eliminate, follow the same rules
but when the dog comes back and sits by you, say “Yes” and release him to go to the
object (provided you are close enough that he doesn’t need to pull). After a few days or
weeks, you will find yourself stopping less frequently. Make sure you continue to reward
your dog for good behavior or he will regress back to pulling.
Option 2:
Before you begin walking, call your dog’s name to get his attention. When he looks up
at you, show him that you have a few tasty treats in your free hand. Hold your hand in
front of your dog’s face so he is looking at the treats, maybe even trying to nibble at
one. Say “Let’s walk,” and move in your intended direction. Every few seconds, pop a
small treat into the dog’s mouth. Praise your dog for walking along at your pace. If the
dog stops and sniffs or pulls ahead, stop and gain your dog’s attention. Have him sit,
show him the treats, and start again. Gradually, over days or weeks, pull your hand up
closer to your body. If your dog jumps up to get the treat, say “uh uh” and tuck your
hand in tight to your body. When all four of his feet are back on the ground, say
“Good!” and reposition your hand. When you reward the dog, reach down to his face to
pop the treat in his mouth. When he can walk along without pulling and with your hand
in a more natural position beside your body, tuck your hand in a pocket. Continue to
reward frequently. Eventually you should be able to walk with your hand comfortably at
your side, reaching into your pocket to grab a treat to reward the dog. Over time,
gradually increase the amount of time between treats so your dog is walking along for
longer distances between treats.
Option 3 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):
For some dogs, stopping and waiting or luring with treats is not sufficient to give them
the idea that they shouldn’t pull. Instead of stopping, teach the dog that when he pulls,
it’s a signal for you to turn and walk back the way you came. You need to incorporate a
warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash, say “Easy.” If
he slows down, say “Yes!” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep moving. If
he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling, don’t say
anything to the dog. Just turn abruptly so your dog will check himself at the end of the
leash. As your dog runs to catch up to you, praise him. When he reaches you, turn and
walk in your original direction. If he pulls again, turn around again. He will learn that
pulling is unpleasant because he gets checked against the end of the leash AND he gets
farther away from his destination. Be sure to follow the same instructions as above for
rewarding the dog when he walks without pulling.
**** Be advised that if your dog is RUNNING at full speed toward the end of the leash,
you could inflict physical damage to his neck if you allow him to check himself against
the leash without giving him any slack. Allow your arm to absorb most of the force when
you turn so the dog is surprised but not harmed.
Option 4 (not for use on dogs wearing a choke or pinch/prong collar):
More resistant dogs may need a jerk on the collar when they pull. You need to
incorporate a warning into this sequence. Before your dog reaches the end of the leash,
say “Easy.” If he slows down, say “Yes” and call him back to you for a treat as you keep
moving. If he does not slow down but gets to the end of the leash and starts pulling,
say, “I said, easy,” in a firm tone, and jerk back on the leash so the dog feels pressure
on the front of his neck. To do this, you will need to reach your arm forward a few
inches to give yourself the slack on the leash to jerk back. Make sure your action is a
jerk and not a pull. You may need to do this a couple of times before the dog slows
down. How much pressure you exert when you jerk back depends on the dog. If your
dog is small or sensitive, you will need only slight force. If your dog is large and
tenacious, you may need a stronger arm.
**** Be advised that if you apply an inordinate amount of effort when you jerk on the
dog’s collar, you can inflict physical damage to the neck. A dog’s trachea is susceptible
to bruising, so be extremely cautious when using this approach.
WHAT SORT OF EQUIPMENT SHOULD YOU USE?
While you are teaching your dog not to pull on the leash, you should use a 4- or 6-foot
leash. Use a width and a material that are comfortable for your hand. Chain leashes are
awkward to use and should be avoided unless you have a dog who easily chews through
leashes. There are elasticized leashes (made of “bungee” material) that work well to
discourage pulling in some dogs. Extendable leashes, such as the FlexiTM, or leashes
longer than 6 feet are appropriate for giving the dog exercise while on leash but are
inappropriate for teaching a dog not to pull.
GOOD COLLAR CHOICES:
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A regular buckle collar
A martingale collar (also called a limited slip collar)
A head halter/head collar (such as the HaltiTM, Gentle LeaderTM, Snoot
LoopTM)
A no-pull harness (such as the SensationTM or the LupiTM)
The head halters and no-pull harnesses may decrease pulling without
additional training.
UNSUITABLE COLLAR CHOICES:
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A regular body harness (actually encourages pulling)
A fabric or metal choke/check collar (may be effective for your dog if used
under the guidance of a certified trainer)
A pinch/prong collar (may be effective for your dog if used under the
guidance of a certified trainer)
DOGS WHO RESIST WALKING ON LEASH
There are dogs who are reluctant to walk on leash—and instead of pulling, they freeze
or turn and pull back toward home. Often such dogs are fearful, and they need a boost
in confidence to feel comfortable walking on leash.
One approach is to lure the dog along by holding tasty treats in front of his face. If the
dog is not too afraid, he should follow the treats and gradually will become more
comfortable walking with you.
A second method is to stop a few feet in front of the dog and wait when he freezes. If
the dog shows any signs of moving toward you, say “Yes!” and reach to the dog to
deliver a treat. Walk a few more feet away and again, wait for the dog to voluntarily
move toward you. Praise and reward the dog for forward movement only.
The third method is only appropriate for small- to medium-sized dogs who will walk for
stretches at a time, but then balk for no apparent reason. Have the dog wear a regular
body harness, and pick the dog up by the back of the harness and move him a few feet
along. This will often “jump start” the dog to move again. Say “Yes!” and offer a treat
when the dog begins to move. Try to anticipate when the dog will balk and lure him
along with treats so that he never stops.
Whatever method you choose, sometimes it can help to start out by walking the dog in
less frightening environments. Instead of walking on a busy road, opt for a quiet
residential street or a path through the park. When the dog develops a level of comfort
in the low-key places, gradually progress to busier areas.
Your dog may respond well if you ask him to engage in other behaviors when he stops
forward movement. Ask the dog to sit, down, make eye contact, shake a paw, or
execute any convenient behavior that he knows and enjoys performing. Sometimes this
helps the dog forget why he was nervous, and so he begins walking again. Of course,
you must always praise and reward him for performing these behaviors.
Fearful and insecure dogs benefit from low-key exposure to the world. Rather than
going for a walk, try sitting on bench and just hang out with the dog. Talk to him and
periodically give him treats when you see any signs that he’s relaxing in the situation.
House Training Your Puppy
Your home has just been blessed with a new puppy who arrived cuddly, warm, and
ready to be loved. Unfortunately, he did not arrive housetrained.
Housetraining your new puppy can be easy and effective if you dedicate the necessary
time and patience. A successful plan includes supervision, confinement, and
encouragement. With these elements, most pups can be trained in a relatively short
period of time.
Getting the message across
If you want your puppy to eliminate outside, you must be aware of various conditions
and activities that typically stimulate puppies to eliminate, including eating, drinking,
playing, and waking from naps. Learn to be aware of these activities and be alert that
your puppy needs to eliminate. Begin to condition your puppy by using a command
such as “out” as you take it outside. With time, your puppy will learn to signal if he has
to go out.
The next step is to teach your puppy where you want him to eliminate. To accomplish
this, you must accompany your puppy every time he goes outdoors. Choose a specific
location with easy access. The area will soon become a familiar spot as your pup
recognizes the odor from previous excursions. Mildly praise any sniffing or other preelimination behaviors and consider associating a unique training command such as
“potty time” or “hurry up” with the act of eliminating. When your puppy eliminates,
praise him heartily, offer a tasty food reward, or start playing. Your puppy will soon
learn what is expected of him whenever he goes outside and hears the special
command. As you begin housetraining, try to take your puppy outdoors every one to
two hours. As he grows older and gets the hang of things, you can wait longer between
outings.
Scheduling puppy’s dinnertime
Controlling your puppy’s feeding schedule provides some control over his elimination
schedule. Most will eliminate with a predictable time after eating, usually within the first
hour. Because of this, it is best to avoid feeding a large meal just before confinement.
Offer food two or three times each day at the same times, and make it available no
longer than 30 minutes. The last meal should be finished three to five hours before
bedtime.
Preventing mistakes
The most challenging part of the housetraining process is preventing your pup from
eliminating indoors. Until he is housetrained, you will need to provide constant
supervision. You should not consider your puppy housetrained until he has gone for at
least four to eight consecutive weeks without eliminating anywhere in the home. Until
your pup accomplishes this, keep him within eyesight of a family member 100 percent of
the time. A leash is a handy tool to keep your pup nearby when you are preoccupied
and he might wander away.
When you are unable to provide constant supervision because you are busy, sleeping, or
away from home, confine your pup to a relatively small, safe area. Always take your
puppy out to eliminate just before confinement. A wire or plastic crate provides an
excellent area in which to confine your puppy when you cannot observe it. A crate has
some limitations. Do not use it for longer than your puppy can physically control
elimination or for more than four hours during the day. Most puppies will quickly adapt
to the crate if you make training fun. Feeding in the crate, tossing toys inside for the
pup to chase, and hiding treats in there should all encourage your puppy to look forward
to being in the crate.
If your puppy is home alone each day for long periods, confine him to a larger area such
as a small room or exercise pen. The area should provide enough space for him to
eliminate if necessary and to rest several feet away from a mess. For easier cleaning,
place a paper at the sites where he is likely to eliminate. It is important to associate
good things with the confinement area, rather than making it solely an isolation area.
Spend some time in the area playing with your puppy or simply reading nearby as he
rests there.
Returning to the scene of the crime
To help prevent your puppy from returning to previously soiled areas, remove urine and
fecal odor with an effective commercial product. Saturate areas of soiled carpeting with
odor neutralizing products- merely spraying the surface is not as effective. If your
puppy begins eliminating in certain areas of the home, deny access to these areas by
closing doors to rooms, using baby gates, or moving furniture over the soiled areas.
Motion alarms will teach your puppy to avoid an area. Most pets avoid eliminating in
areas where they eat or play. Feeding or placing water bowls, bedding, and toys in
previously soiled areas can discourage elimination at those spots.
Keeping your cool
No puppy has ever been housetrained without making a mistake or two. Be prepared
for the inevitable. It does not help to become frustrated and harshly discipline your
puppy. Punishment is the least effective and most overused approach to housetraining.
A correction should involve nothing more than a mild, startling distraction and should be
used only if you catch your puppy in the act of eliminating indoors. A quick stomp of
the foot, loud clap, tug on the leash, or abrupt “No” (given with enough intensity to
interrupt the behavior without frightening your puppy) is all that is necessary.
Immediately take your pup to his elimination area outdoors to finish. A correction that
occurs more than a few seconds after your puppy eliminates is useless because he will
not understand why he is being corrected. If the punishment is too harsh, he may learn
not to eliminate in front of you, even outdoors, and you run the risk of ruining your
bond with your puppy. And don’t even think about rubbing its nose in a mess. There is
absolutely nothing it will learn from this, except to be afraid of you.
Some pets will squat and urinate as they greet family members. Never scold them.
This problem is due typically to either nervousness or excitement, and scolding will
always make the problem worse.
With a little patience and a consistent approach, your puppy will be as housetrained as
the rest of your family.
Health
Grooming
The best time to start getting your pet into the routine of being groomed and fussed
over is when they are young. The best thing that you can do is to start slow, with no
equipment or tools, and just get them used to being handled in the way that you will
handle them while actually performing the grooming later on. Lots of patience, rewards,
and, mostly, make it fun. Never raise your voice or restrain your pet when getting them
used to a procedure, this will make it a tug of war later.
When your pet is cuddled with you, get him used to having his feet massaged and
played with. Only for a few seconds at a time to start, then work up to a minute or so.
Playing and massaging his ears is a good way to start as well, gently stroking the inside
as well as outside of the flap. Gently rub around his mouth area, giving praise and
treats until you can eventually open his lip and check his teeth. Get him used to lying
on his back and being held and petted.
Brushing
Start out by letting your pet cuddle up with you in a quiet environment. Let him see the
brush and sniff it. Do not play with him with it or let him bite or chew it at any time.
Work up to one or two strokes with the non-bristle side, then, another time, a few
strokes with the bristle side. Consider starting with an extra-soft baby brush, and work
up to the appropriate bristle type (consult with your veterinarian on this). Again, never
get frustrated and force the issue, you will never get another chance.
Toenail clipping
Possibly the most difficult procedure that you will do at home, the key is to start slow
and give lots of rewards.
Again, start by massaging the feet until your pet is comfortable with this
Purchase high quality clippers, and discard when they dull, or the blade chips
Start by holding the foot gently, and clipping the tip of one nail. Reward and quit there!!
Cat’s claws are retractable, so you need to take the paw gently with your thumb and
forefinger and push until the nails are visible.
You should purchase a product to stop bleeding (styptic powder) if you happen to clip
the nail a little short and cut into the vein. The best thing you can do is to keep your
pet and yourself calm. Raising your pet’s blood pressure will only make the bleeding
worse. Simply press a small bit of powder into the cut center of the nail and quit for the
day.
Keep your pet’s nails short enough that they are not tapping the ground when they
walk.
Filing the nails with a nail file can also be a good way to keep them at the correct
length.
Ear cleaning
Ask your veterinarian for the best cleaning solution for your particular pet
Place a small amount of solution on a cotton piece, or a tissue or, best is a 4x4 gauze
pad that you can purchase at the local drug store
Gently clean the inside of the flap of the ear, and start with a fresh gauze pad soaked in
solution
Clean around the bumps and ridges inside the ear.
If you see a great deal of debris, stop and have your veterinarian perform the first
cleaning so as to not push the debris further down the canal
In most cases, you can wrap the gauze around your index finger, and clean in as far as
your finger will fit. A dog’s ear canal takes a turn before getting to the eardrum, so
damage is unlikely.
If severe redness or odor is noticed, call and consult your veterinarian.
Exercise
What are good ways to play with and exercise my puppy?
Taking your dog for a walk is a good way to accomplish exercise and can be enjoyable
and healthy for you as well. From an early age you should acclimate your puppy to a
collar and leash. A flat nylon or leather collar is fine. Keep your puppy away from stray
dogs and neighborhood parks until all vaccinations are finished. Practice your walking
skills in your own yard first. Put your puppy on leash, and with your voice and a small
tug, or perhaps a food or toy reward as a prompt, encourage it to follow you. Reward
the good behavior with praise. Keep initial walks short to encourage compliance.
Playing with your pet is an enjoyable activity for both of you. Not only does the puppy
get exercise, but positive interactions take place. Training sessions are also an excellent
way to gain owner leadership and control, while providing interaction between you and
your pet.
How much exercise and play is appropriate?
Selecting an appropriate amount
and type of play and exercise, will
depend firstly on the type of dog.
Puppies and even adult dogs from
breeds that have been bred for
their stamina or to do “work”
often have higher exercise
requirements. For purebred
dogs, consider their traditional
work when deciding the type and
amount of play to provide. For
example, the retrieving breeds do
best with lengthy games of fetch
or “Frisbee”, while the sledding breeds might prefer pulling carts, or running or jogging
with an active owner.
The length and type of play and exercise for your dog will depend on its behavioral
requirements and health limitations. While some dogs may still be ready for more after
a 5 mile jog and a game of fetch, others may be tired and satisfied after a short walk
around the block.
How can I keep my dog occupied when I am away?
When you are out, or you are busy at home with other activities and responsibilities, it
would be ideal for your dog to be relaxed and sleeping, but this will not always be the
case. Exploring the environment, stealing food items, raiding garbage cans, chewing or
digging, are just a few of the ways that dogs will find to keep themselves occupied.
Therefore when your are certain that you have provided your dog with sufficient play
and interactive exercise, and you must leave your dog alone, provide sufficient toys and
distractions to keep your dog occupied and confine your pet to a safe, dog-proofed area.
Some dogs do best when housed with another dog for play and companionship. Others
prefer objects to chew (see our handout on Destructiveness – chewing), areas to dig
(see our handout on Destructiveness – digging), self feeding toys, or even a video to
keep themselves occupied and “busy” while you are unavailable.
What type of play should be avoided?
Try to avoid games that pit your strength against your puppies. Tug-of-war games
seem to be an enjoyable diversion for many puppies and they do help to direct chewing
and biting toward an acceptable play object, rather than an owner’s hands or clothing.
On the other hand, some puppies get very excited, overly stimulated and become far
too aggressive during tug-of-war games. A general rule of thumb for tug-of-war (or any
other game for that matter) is to avoid it, unless you are the one to initiate the game,
and can stop it as soon as the need arises. Teaching the dog to “drop” on command
can help to ensure that you remain in control of object play sessions such as fetch and
tug -of -war. (See our handout on Controlling stealing and teaching the “give”
command).
Although games like chase are good exercise, they can often result in wild exuberant
play that gets out of control. Again, a good rule of thumb is to only play these games, if
you are the one to initiate the game, and are capable of stopping the game immediately
should it get out of control. Many dogs can be taught to play “hide and seek” without
becoming too excited. Other dogs like to “search” for their toys and bring them to you.
How can I teach my puppy to play fetch?
Most young puppies, even those that do not have an inherent instinct to retrieve, can be
taught how to play fetch from an early age. You will need to train your puppy to do
three things; go get the toy, bring it back, and relinquish it to you so that you can throw
it again. First, make the toy enticing. Try a squeaky toy or a ball. Toss the toy a short
distance, 1-2 feet, and encourage your puppy to go to it. When she gets there, praise
her. If she picks it up in her mouth, tell her “good dog”. Then, move backwards a short
way, clap your hands and entice your puppy to come towards you. All the while you
should be encouraging verbally with a happy tone of voice and lots of praise. When
your puppy returns to you, say “give it” or “release” and show another toy or even a
small food treat. Most puppies will gladly give the toy to get the new toy or treat and at
the same time will quickly learn the “give” or “release” command. Then, by repeating
the entire sequence of events again, the game of fetch itself, should soon be enough of
a reward that food and toys will no longer be necessary to entice the puppy to give the
toy. At the end of each fetch play session, have the puppy return the toy and give a toy
or chew treat for the puppy to play with as a final reward for releasing the toy.
Taking Care of Your Pet's Teeth
By Susan B. Lewis, DVM
It may be something that you have never given
much thought to, but your pet’s dental health has a
major effect on his general health and, possibly,
how long he will live. Just as in humans, the mouth
of your pet is the gateway to the rest of his body.
By the age of three, 80 % of all dogs, and 70% of
cats have signs of dental disease. And, as in
humans, a diseased mouth can lead to:
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Kidney disease
Systemic infections
Heart disease
Bone disease
Pain and decreased ability to eat
What happens in that furry mouth?
Plaque, a gummy mixture of bacteria forms where food is left in the teeth after eating
and in cracks and crevices of the teeth. This is a soft substance, which in pets and
humans can be cleaned easily with a toothbrush and toothpaste. If this is not cleaned,
it can harden and form tartar that forms a wedge between the tooth and gum, and lets
plaque get under the gum. Gingivitis, which is an inflammation of the gum, begins. At
this stage, professional cleaning can reverse the damage.
If nothing is done at this point, pus can form at the roots of the tooth, and the tissue
holding the tooth begin to be destroyed. After a very painful, protracted process, the
tooth falls out.
What should I do?
First, become familiar with your pet’s mouth, teeth and gums. Check them frequently
for odor, redness, swelling, pain. A clean mouth should have little odor. Check for
yellow/brown teeth, loose teeth, hair/food caught in teeth, bumps or growths in mouth.
Watch your pet eat or play. Is he having problems holding toys, dropping food? It is
time for an exam by your veterinarian
Have your veterinarian check your pet’s teeth at each visit, and follow the veterinarian’s
recommendation
Have your pet anesthetized and a thorough cleaning done as recommended by your
veterinarian
The Social Scene
Little puppies don’t come into our world with the ready knowledge about humans or the
world in which we live. They need to learn all about us- about car rides, vacuums,
weaving bicycles, and more. If they don’t have a chance to learn about the people,
animals, and things in their environment, they may grow up to be fearful, anxious,
antisocial adults. This situation can usually be prevented with early socialization and
exposure to as many people, animals, sights, sounds, and places as possible. If you are
considering getting a new puppy, it is best to obtain him at approximately seven weeks
old. Before this time, a puppy needs to be socialized to his mother and littermates.
From seven weeks on, it is critical that puppies socialize with humans.
Socialization-making friends
Socialization is the process of developing relationships with other living beings in your
environment. The first few months of your puppy’s life are the most critical for his
development. If this time passes without the young pup making necessary social
contacts irreparable damage may result, leading to fear, timidity, or aggression. Since
the most sensitive period for puppy socialization occurs during the first 12 weeks of age,
you should begin the socialization process as soon as you get your new puppy (and then
continue into adulthood).
Start with simple, quiet, one-person introductions and gradually include more people in
noisier situations. Invite friends, relatives, and their pets to come to your home to
meet, greet, and play with your puppy. As soon as your veterinarian says your puppy is
adequately vaccinated, take him on as many walks and outings as possible. Initially
avoid situations that might be high risk for disease, such as neighborhood parks or areas
with stray dogs. To make the new introductions special, give a small biscuit to your
puppy whenever he meets someone. As soon as your puppy can sit on command, have
him sit when he meets new people, letting each new friend give the reward. This
teaches your puppy to greet properly, rather than lunging or jumping up on visitors and
passersby.
Networking
It is important that your puppy meets and receives treats from a wide variety of people
of all ages and appearances. A puppy that grows up in a restricted social group (e.g.,
all adults or all females) may show fear and aggression when later exposed to people
who appear to act differently (e.g., children, men with beards). Even if there are no
children living in the home, it is likely that your puppy will encounter them sometime.
Therefore, every effort should be made to see that your young pup has plenty of
opportunities to play with and learn about children. Some pups seem to consider kids to
be a completely different species since they walk, act, and talk much differently than
adults. If you don’t provide your puppy with adequate, positive interaction with children
during his early months, he may never feel comfortable around them.
Another excellent way to promote early socialization is to take your puppy to training
classes. The new concept in training is to start puppies young, before they pick up bad
habits and when learning is rapid. Many communities now have puppy training and
socialization classes where puppies can be admitted as early as their third month.
These classes not only help the pups get off to a great start with training, they also offer
a wonderful opportunity for important social experiences with other puppies and people.
Ask your veterinarian about classes available in your area.
Punishment during the early development stages can negatively influence the puppy’s
relationships with people. Avoid training methods that involve physical discipline, such
as swatting your pup, thumping him on the nose, and rubbing his face in a mess. These
methods can teach your dog to fear the human hand or to become a fear biter. In
general, during the early months of your puppy’s life, avoid any interactions with people
who might make him anxious.
Habituation-hello world!
Habituation is a fancy term that involves getting used to a varied environment. As your
puppy matures, new sounds and situations can lead to fear and anxiety. Begin the
habituation process at an early age. Frequently expose your puppy to different sights,
sounds, odors, and situations.
For example, repeated, short car rides can minimize anxiety associated with traveling,
provided nothing unpleasant occurs during the ride. Also expose your puppy to stimuli
such as the sound of traffic, sirens, airplanes, water, elevators, or alarm clocks. If your
puppy seems to be exceptionally cautious when first introduced to new situations or
stimuli, start off with mild exposure and give food rewards for nonfearful responses.
Never give rewards while the pet is exhibiting fearful behavior- this only rewards the
very response you are trying to discourage. Your puppy then can be gradually “built up”
to more intense exposure. Tape recordings of a variety of environmental sounds are
available if it’s difficult to expose your puppy to sufficient stimuli in your own
neighborhood.
Properly socializing and shaping your puppy’s temperament requires an investment in
time. You will find that your efforts are worthwhile when you become the proud parent
of a social, friendly dog.
Safety
House Proofing
Puppy Proofing your Home and Yard
THE BEST WAY TO SHOW THEM YOU CARE!
Keep all poisons locked up. Do not think that your pet can’t find a way into a cabinet if
they smell something that they want badly enough. Medications, cleaning solutions,
petroleum products, chocolate, onions, garlic, antifreeze, paint, etc.
Check for small holes in walls, floors, behind appliances, under cluttered beds, in
mattresses or box springs, and holes in upholstered furniture. Cats and small dogs
have been known to get stuck in these crevices.
Remove from reach (remember cats and many dogs can jump up on counters and
dressers!), any small objects that could be swallowed; coins, rubber bands, staples,
socks, gloves, stones, jewelry, pens, pencils, thread, dental floss, thumb tacks can all
cause serious harm.

Keep sick, debilitated or very young animals away from steps or ledges.
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Keep your cat off balconies and high ceiling ledges.

Dogs and cats can easily knock heavy objects off tables and ledges. Secure or
remove!
Electric cords seem to be a chewing temptation , especially for young dogs and cats,
and can easily lead to serious burns or even fatal electrocution. Cover these wires with
rugs or tape.
Keep the houseplants to the non-poisonous variety, or keep them out of the house. It is
never possible to watch your pet every minute, and it only takes one bite….
Small toys (pet or human), broken toys, small chew bones, puzzle pieces, all can
become a choking hazard, or become stuck in the intestine or stomach, causing a
blockage
Preventing Runaways
Home Again Microchip
1-888-466-2424
24/7 Emergency Medical Care through the ASPCA @ 888-426-4435 ($60.00 value, free
of charge)
Recently added insurance coverage for your pet if he or she is lost or stolen and
becomes ill during their time missing from home. You will be provided with $3000.00
worth of coverage (less a $50.00 deductible) for medical care. To activate this coverage,
you are required to contact Pet First Healthcare (866) 937-7387 as soon as your pet
receives a microchip.
Web page set up for your account with Home Again so your pet’s information can be
easily updated online in case of address change or need to ad different photos of your
pet(s)etc.
24/7 Recovery Specialists to send out emails and faxes of your pets information and
photo (if one is provided to Home Again) on a “lost pet poster” to alert local Vets,
shelters and Pet Rescuers. (Pet Rescuers are volunteers that are alerted to lost pets in
their area so there can be additional people looking out for your lost pet.) Even if you
are traveling with your pet, these services are available where ever you are.
Any pet that has a microchip that is not registered (even if not a Home Again microchip)
can be registered on the Home Again website and receive all of the same benefits.
Home Again provides you with a pocket size Pet ID to carry for quick access to your
pet’s microchip number, pet photo and description.
The cost of the microchip is $55.00 which includes the one time activation fee and the
first year’s registration. Home Again will contact you when it is time to renew your yearly
registration.
Ten Million pets get lost every year. Without ID, 90% don’t return home. Over 94% of
pets Microchipped with Home Again have been reunited with their families.
Pet Insurance
Petshealth / www.petshealthinsurance.com / 1-888-592-7387
Veterinary Pet Insurance 1-800-872-7387
Pet Protect Healthcare Insurance / www.pethealthinsure.com /1888-Pet-Sure
PetCare Pet Insurance: www.petcareinsurance.com // 1-866-275-PETS
Petshealth Care Plan: www.petshealthplan.com // 1-800-807-6724
Health Bark and Purr: www.healthybarkandpurr.com // 1-800-799-5852
Pets Best: www.petsbest.com // 877-738-7237
Portions of this publication have been provided by:
Brent Dickinson, Practice Manager, Dickinson-McNeill Veterinary Clinic,
Chesterfield, NJ.
www.dickinsonmcneill.net
Briarcrest Veterinary Clinic
Bryan, Texas
www.briarcrestveterinary.com
Halsey East Animal Clinic
Portland, Oregon
www.halseyeastanimalclinic.com