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VDR _ How to make a Reed Shorebird Whistle
This topic can be found at:
http://decoycarvingforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/4216067104/m/9061006274
24 June 2008, 17:01
Jim D.
VDR _ How to make a Reed Shorebird Whistle
The following is going to be a non-traditional tutorial in that I’m only reporting the methods used
by someone else. I cannot answer questions.
NOTICE – I WILL TAKE THIS TUTORIAL DOWN IN 30 DAYS. IF YOU WANT A COPY,
MAKE IT NOW.
Here’s what you’re going to see and how I came about the information:
The following photos and instructions document how to make a shorebird call from a reed. They
came from Harold Skeete, a true gentleman in Barbados where shorebird shooting is still legal
and is practiced by “Gentlemen’s Clubs”. Mr. Skeete not only provided me with the information
and allowed me to share it, he made a pair of calls for me which I used to make a measured
drawing which will appear at the end of this tutorial.
Mr. Skeete makes a single note call and a different style of two-note call.
Here are some comments from one of his first notes:
quote:
Attached are a few pictures showing the various stages of making the bird whistles out of reed.
One can also make them out of lathed bone, 1/2" dia. PVC conduit or similar.
You will notice that there is a longer whistle also shown, which we call a "double note" whistle,
for whistling the golden plover. The piece of reed has a " knot" midway or a partition, which I
drill a small hole in (1/8" dia.) and by closing the back end of the whistle you get one note & if
you release the back end you then get a different note, thereby achieving the "double note" much
like a flute… to master this call takes a bit of practice.
We can whistle over two dozen different species of north American migratory birds with the
shorter of the two whistles… the tone of this whistle is achieved by the adjustment of the cork
plug, which I normally attach a string to so that one can pull back the cork & re-adjust to achieve
the correct tone.“
Here’s the first picture – the pair of calls that Mr. Skeete made for me. One is the single note
call. It has a “tuner” which is the cork plug that is inserted up the bore. The tuner plug is adjusted
by pulling on the attached string. The other call is the two-note call. It uses the natural partition
between two segments of reed. Photo instructions for both sets of calls follow. Note: the small
piece of reed shown in the picture is used to clean out the mouthpiece if it becomes constricted.
24 June 2008, 17:08
Jim D.
We’ll start with the single note call. First Mr. Skeete selects a section of reed that has an internal
bore of about ½”. He cuts a section about 3 ¼” long and trims one end at an angle to form the
beginnings of the mouthpiece.
A piece of PVC pipe will work as well but certainly doesn’t look traditional.
24 June 2008, 17:11
Jim D.
Now he begins cutting the “lip”. The first cut of the lip is made perpendicular to the bore of the
tube and is only just deep enough to enter into the bore. The second, sloping, cut begins about ½”
further on down the tube and connects with the first cut.
24 June 2008, 17:13
Jim D.
Using a scalpel or even a carving knife if you have one (he he) open and refine the opening into
the bore. The opening should be about 3/16” X 3/16”.
24 June 2008, 17:24
Jim D.
Clean up the edges for a clearer sound. A bit of careful sanding will be good.
24 June 2008, 17:25
Jim D.
Now begin shaping the plug. First the plug diameter has to be same as the internal bore of the
reed. If you’re using PVC pipe, a wooden dowel can probably be found that’s already the right
diameter. Sand the end of the plug perfectly square and smooth (this will be the inside end.)
Cut a flat segment about 5/16” wide and 1” long on top of the plug. This will make the air
passage (or windway as musical instrument makers call it.)
Insert the plug into the call, making sure the flat end is directly below the part of the lip that
nearest the mouthpiece. Also make sure that the flattened area is on top as is the lip.
24 June 2008, 17:27
Jim D.
Take a piece of cork and cut it to the same diameter as the bore and about ½” long. String a
sturdy cord through it. This plug will be used to tune the call and to adjust it for different species.
Don’t bother asking me questions about tuning it… that’s going to be up to you.
The cork plug is inserted from the other end and pushed into place with a stick or whatever you
have handy.
24 June 2008, 17:29
Jim D.
Now trim the wooden plug to fit flush against the mouthpiece. In a perfect world, you’d be all
set. However with my lack of experience I ended up making several calls and even more plugs
until I got one to sound even close to Mr. Skeetes. I asked him for suggestions and got these:
quote:
Whistle making hints;
”1) with the reed whistles I always try to "round out" the interior with something tubular with
sand paper wrapped around… the PVC conduit will not have this problem of course.
2) the size of the top cut hole I think should be relative to the diameter of the whistle, but follow
my hole size.
3) after top hole cut, I cut/shape the curved mouth end of whistle, with the underside end approx.
1/4" forward of top hole front edge.
.4) I use cedar wood or Honduras mahogany for the tongue of the whistle. After the initial knife
whittle down to near size, I then round up with sandpaper to fit… one could use a lathe, and then
refine sand to finish.
5) after tight fit with internal end sanded, I normally put a knife cut into the cedar wood at the
top end of the whistle, remove the cedar wood, knife cut the top partially, to allow for future
sanding… saw cut off the cedar tongue wood… knife cut off excess to shape of curved reed …
use something tubular to knock out cedar tongue… rub flat top end on 500 grit water paper to a
slight wedge shape, i.e. ; small at back & bigger at blowing end… re-insert tongue and finish
sanding front end smooth with water paper… insert cork with pull back string & tune to tone
required.
6) I normally spray a generous amount of wd 40 or similar into whistle and front of tongue, let
this soak for a few minutes and blow out… this tends to expand the tongue for a tighter fit and
takes away the new look… I do this about once a year to but back some moisture into the dry
reed as well.
7) other than the foregoing, you could pick apart my whistle,, but that should not be necessary if
you just inspect carefully. “
24 June 2008, 17:30
Jim D.
Now for the two-note plover whistle. It’s made just like the first call except the section of reed is
a bit longer and contains a natural partition about 2” – 2 ¼” from the mouthpiece end. This
partition is carefully pierced with a 1/8” hole.
24 June 2008, 17:31
Jim D.
Showing the placement of the hole in the partition. See Mr. Skeete’s comments in the first post
of this topic on how it’s played.
24 June 2008, 17:32
Jim D.
as promised, here’s the measured drawing of the single note call. All measurements were taken
from Mr. Skeete’s call. As he uses natural materials the measurements are only approximate.
However, this isn’t rocket science…. It’s just a whistle much like the ones we made when we
were kids.
24 June 2008, 17:33
Jim D.
Here are two calls I made from PVC. Instead of using the cork and string, I placed the cork on
the end of a dowel. It works and saves a lot of “fitting”, but is no more effective than his original
method.
24 June 2008, 17:35
Jim D.
Here's a photo of a shorebird hunting club’s “Hide”…. A proper place for a gentleman hunter.
24 June 2008, 17:37
Jim D.
and, finally some of Mr. Skeete’s notes on the use of decoys in shorebird hunting.
quote:
"Lesser yellow legs make up 70% of the migration seen locally… greater yellow legs @ 3%…
stilt sandpipers @ 9%… pectoral sandpipers @ 11% and golden plover @ 6%… ducks, curlews,
grey breast plover etc make up the remainder... these figures are based on 1981 stats.
We are now encouraged not to shoot quite a few of the migrating species that are seemingly
endangered such as the upland sand piper, curlews, godwits and of recent times the golden
plover.
The ones that are shot are not by any means endangered. Also, we eat all that we shoot. They are
considered quite a delicacy. Traditionally they are skinned and packed into the empty ammo
boxes, and frozen.
As for the decoys… the bigger the better.
Although we get by far more lesser yellow legs, the decoys are fashioned after the greater yellow
legs so that they are seen better from further. Yellow leg decoys are placed in shallow water, and
will attract most of the migrating species that feed on small fish and water based life.
Golden plover would nearly always land on the banks next to the ponds, as they normally would
be found in the agricultural grounds feeding on grubs, worms etc.
The curlews, black-bellied plover, willet, & ruddy turnstone, tend to keep to the beaches or cliff
areas.”
“
Now, if I can only find a REALLY isolated stretch of beach.....
Jim