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St. Petersburg
August - September 2014
Island culture
More than
10 years
in Russia!
inyourpocket.com
N°96
The city’s greener islands
for a summer stroll
Big gigs
International lineups
at all music venues
Contents
Where to eat
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
6
In the News
7
Arrival & Getting Around
8
City Basics
10
Language
11
Russian summer menu
Restaurants in hotels
27
40
44
Nightlife
46
What to see
52
The Essentials
52
Hermitage54
Old Soviet Tours
57
St.Petersburg’s historical outskirts
58
Where to stay 60
Culture & Events 12
Interview with concierge
62
Concerts, festivals and exhibitions
Manifesta 10
Live music clubs
Shopping
64
12
16
18
Features
Smolny District
Krestovsky and Yelagin Islands
Nevsky prospekt
20
22
50
Expat & Lifestyle66
The Expat Experience 67
Business
68
Maps & Index
69
Moscow
73
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0+
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August - September 2014
3
Foreword
In the News
Back to school, kids!
St. Petersburg has undergone a beautiful transformation
in the last two-three years: street life, cultural events, gastronomy and design are flourishing more than ever before.
And the city is still changing: every day, new places open,
world famous musicians perform and young entrepreneurs
present their innovative ideas. Attracting more visitors annually than any other Russian city, Peter (as the locals call it),
is not only a city people are constantly coming to but one
people want to return to.
If you’re reading our guide in St Petersburg right now, you
really couldn’t have chosen a better time to come! This is
an important year for our city as we are currently playing
host to Manifesta 10, the European Biennial of Contemporary Art. St Petersburg’s cultural calendar is as busy and
interesting as ever, so check out the special guide we’ve
prepared to Manifesta’s 10 best events and must-see’s on
pages 16-17.
If you’ve had enough of modern art and just want to relax,
you can go to Krestovsky or Yelagin Islands, two beautiful
places not far from the city center where you can, as the
Russians say, “Otdochnut telom i dushoj”, or literally, relax
the body and soul. We’ve already scanned every inch of
these islands so check out pages 22-26 and get planning.
Brimming with local know-how, tips and tricks we hope
this guide will help you unlock St Petersburg’s potential. We
don’t just want you to see the city - we want you to understand it and feel it. You never know when the summer will
end in St. Petersburg, so savour every warm moment and
make sure you have some fun in the sun!
Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket
St. Petersburg In Your
E S Pocket
S E N TI A L
founded and published
C I TbyY G U I D E S
OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A,
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
[email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com
Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, [email protected]
General director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected]
Director Sales&Strategy Jerke Verschoor, [email protected]
Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, [email protected]
Researcher Wabke Waaijer, [email protected]
Design Malvina Markina, [email protected]
Sales Managers
Ilya Timshin, [email protected]
Peter Smirnov, [email protected]
Contributors
Maria Stambler, Chris Jones, Ankur Shah, Lana Metafonov
Customer Service Manager
Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected]
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All
rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name
In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket.
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from
paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility
for changes and errors.
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
© Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl
Published 6 times per year with supplements,
No 96, 01.08.2014, 90,000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.
Cover story
Here you can see the shining sun drenched yachts of St.
Petersburg’s very own marina, between Krestovsky and
Yelagin islands. Photo by Ilya Timshin.
About IYP
RUSSIA
LITHUANIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND
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NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM
POLAND
UKRAINE
GERMANY
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BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
BULGARIA
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ALBANIA
GREECE
SOUTH
AFRICA
4
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
GEORGIA
The recent publication of a guide to the
islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first
in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the
number of guides published each year
by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities
on three continents. And there is more
to come: make sure you keep up with all
that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on
Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket)
or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/
inyourpocket).
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
A prosperous future
begins with knowledge!
The key to a successful future begins with a solid educational foundation so if you are looking to expand
your opportunities and broaden your horizons at a
leading world-class institution then the Education
UK event is worth a visit. On October 7th, the British
Council is holding its 16th Education UK event at the
5* Corinthia St. Petersburg hotel. More than British 50
educational institutions will be present in order for visitors to get acquainted with the multitude of available
programs and ask the representatives questions. Apart
from high schools, boarding schools and universities,
visitors can also find specialized business or language
courses represented at this fair.
New kid in town
Sestroretsk for the
people!
In summer 2014 the Sestroretsky instrument factory is getting revamped into a new recreational and leisure zone called
“Petrovsky Arsenal”. This new cultural space is set in a charming natural setting where anyone can enjoy fun outdoor
activities such as volleyball, football, table tennis and even
petanque in the sunshine. All kinds of bicycles - women’s,
men’s, children’s, tandem - are available for rent and if you
don’t know what’s worth cycling to, the 3-hour “Hello, Sestroretsk” bike tour will show you. In addition Petrovsky Arsenal
offers comfy lounge beds, free wi-fi, a summer movie theater,
a library, an eco-market, a gallery and various cafes. To the
delight of the younger visitors and animal lovers, Petrovksy Arsenal created an improvised zoo. www.petrovskyarsenal.ru
We have come a long way in the 22 years
since we published the first In Your Pocket
guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much
so that we are today the largest publisher
of locally-produced city guides in the
world.
ESTONIA
LATVIA
For every child in Russia, September 1st is the official first
day of school - an event some may be very excited about
while others would prefer to keep enjoying their holidays.
Either way, expect to see lots and lots of dressed up kids,
barely bigger than their backpacks, holding bouquets of
flowers for their teachers. Girls are known to wear the biggest and frilliest bows known to man on this very special
day. Even most senior students are well-groomed and
many can be spotted with flowers. Proud parents lead the
younger pupils to a new academic year and new knowledge because here, there is a huge focus on the significance and responsibility of learning.
Санкт-Петербург
В Твоем Кармане
Учредитель и издатель:
ООО «Красная Шапка»
Адрес редакции и издателя:
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург
Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.
тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
факс: + 7 (812) 448 88 64
Главный редактор:
Бонни ван дер Велде
Цена свободная.
Для детей старше 16 лет.
A new panorama restaurant has opened its doors just
a stone’s throw away from Moskovsky train station. The
name, “Bolshaya Kukhnya” (Big Kitchen), is very appropriate
because the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once,
making it a great place for groups of friends and families
to enjoy a very wide menu (more than 150 dishes!) in an
endless open space with large windows looking out at the
terrace and Uprising Square. In addition to great food and
a unique interior & exterior, Bolshaya Kukhnya is also the
place to be to listen to live alternative music performances
in the evening. The stage resembles a moving street theater,
which adds to a very lively and down-to-earth atmosphere.
A children’s room ensures that youngsters let their parents
relax in peace. www.facebook.com/BigKitchenSPB
Car-free Nevsky?
Like Fifth Avenue in New York or Oxford Street in London,
Nevsky Prospect in St. Petersburg is at the heart of the city.
This is where the city lives its busy life and witnesses all the
hustle and bustle all day every day. But the “Red St. Petersburg” movement has a different vision for this avenue: it has
proposed a plan where Nevsky will become a pedestrianonly zone from 10am till 11pm on Sundays in the summer,
starting from the Fontanka and stretching up to the Moika.
Special exceptions will be made: public transportation
and people residing on this street won’t be affected. These
vehicles will be given special lanes that will not affect the
movement of pedestrians. Let’s see what happens!
Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”,
191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул.
Тележная, д. 17.
Заказ No26829
Свидетельство о регистрации
средства массовой информации
Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03
выдано Северо-Западным
региональным управлением
комитета РФ по печати.
Тираж 90 000 экз. No96.
01.08.2014
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August - September 2014
5
Arriving & Getting Around
St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - attractive and efficient, it is the fastest way
to get across town or into the central city. If you find Cyrillic
a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your way from the metro station to your destination you have a choice of buses,
minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are
less user friendly but once you know the routes and when
to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you
want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you
can always take a taxi.
Arriving in town
Arriving by bus
St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you
know where you are going before you leave.
The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of
the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is
a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town
and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr.
Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya
metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into
the metro system. To find your way into the city centre
make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies
have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus
companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you
could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops.
The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest
metro station or take a taxi.
Arriving by car
Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Driver’s
licence, registration and insurance documents for the car
and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At
the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is
stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled
over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is
not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or
ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher,
a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the
highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h.
The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay
for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.
6
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Arriving & Getting Around
The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone
of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and
there is a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay
the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km
too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light
will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost
500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English,
which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy.
In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road
conditions often force you to drive more carefully and
thus more slowly.
Arriving by plane
St. Petersburg’s international terminal Pulkovo is located in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The
airport offers the usual shops and restaurants within the
terminal building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes
open for the ATM machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you
want to relax with a coffee and cake before being collected or trying to find your way into the city, be aware
that the airport prices have been known to cause heart
failure!
Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can
take Bus №39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) №39 to Moskovskaya Metro Station (seven stops – it will take 15-25
minutes depending on traffic) and then take the metro
into town (another seven stops in the metro – about 1520 minutes). Once you are in the metro system you can
get to most parts of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for
maps of the metro system if you need to find a particular
station.
If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl
and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree
on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldn’t exceed 700-800Rbl.
Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get
out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply
connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from
Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit
Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky.
There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream,
band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need.
Baltisky station
QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Finlyandsky station
QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46,
www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Ladozhsky station
QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53
10, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Moskovsky station
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457
44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Vitebsky station
QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812
457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Public transport
Arriving by train
Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train
stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply
need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St.
Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the
metro station nearest your destination.
Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from
the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland
arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky
station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for
Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia
arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. There are taxi stands outside every station and the
drivers there usually charge less than the ones waiting to
pounce on the station platforms. If you are arriving from
midnight onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night and
during summer the bridges will be open - which depending on where your accommodation is might mean substantial delays.
Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of
transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets
from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 35Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms
of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight.
Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and
there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’
driver.
St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world
and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those
on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons
of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also
fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need
to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs
from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from
the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro
lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent
stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny
Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see
the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station
announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This
can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush
hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you
can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving
and queue-cutting.
Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have
the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of
the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leather-
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covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners
above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many
also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current
and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley.
The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed
route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a
reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days,
they go just about everywhere within the city and out to
the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which
disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set
departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number
you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare
(up to 35Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you.
When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozhaluista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt.
TaxiS
Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a
legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for
the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have
English-speaking operators but in many big companies
you can book a taxi online:
Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com
Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru
Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru
New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.
nyt.ru
August - September 2014
7
City Basics
Language
Be on guard!
useful phrases
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets
if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab,
or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.
Basic frases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I don't want
02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and
don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33.
The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can
help you file a police report. Your consulate can help
you if your passport has been stolen. The police here
generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy
your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry
a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check
Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.
pocket dictionary:
Davai!
Let’s go! Come on! Let’s do it! You’ll hear it here, you’ll hear it
there. Davai, davai! Used in everything from aerobic classes
to salutations, from ending a phone call to on the tennis
court, this word seems to be all you need to know. Just nod
your head and say davai if you want to fit in. Davai comes
from the verb dat (to give), but is most commonly used as
a suggestion form, a little like Shall we have another drink?
Okay, davai! Want to grab some dinner? Davai!
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations,
banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices
The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular
alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye
(Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note
that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5%
between 22:00 and 11:00.
8
St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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adinatsat
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tritsat
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pyatsot
tysicha
alphabet
А
Б
В
Г
Д
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Ё
Ж
A
B
V
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D
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YO
ZH
З
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Ц
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Ъ, Ь
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SH
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YU
YA
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Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est…?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
Good
Khorosho
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
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Kogda?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Of course
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Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol
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Извините
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Пароль
The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-language newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published
weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and international news as well as business, the arts, sport, entertainment and much else that is of interest to both
residents and visitors to Russia’s cultural capital.
Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert
commentary on the country’s changing political and
economic landscape and provides valuable insight
into the issues that frequently grab the world’s attention. Available at St. Petersburg’s top hotels, restaurants
and business centers citywide, as well as at important
international events.
August - September 2014
9
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations,
you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance
any and every night you choose.
theatres
Alexandrinsky Theatre
QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312
15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru.
Imperial Hermitage Theatre
QC-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru.
Mariinsky Theatre
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326
41 41, www.mariinsky.ru.
Mikhailovsky Theatre
QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43
19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Ticket office: daily 11:00 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00.
Saint Petersburg Opera
QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315
67 69, www.spbopera.ru.
State Theatre of Musical Comedy
QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
570 53 16, www.spbmuzcomedy.com.
concert halls and clubs
Club Cosmonavt
QD-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su.
Grand Philharmonic Hall
QD-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.
Jazz Philharmonic Hall
QС-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.
JFC Jazz Club
QB-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. Open 19:00 - 23:00.
Ledovy Dvorets
QPr. Pyatiletok 1 (opposite the metro), MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru.
Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ)
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275
13 00, www.bkz.ru.
Small Philharmonic Hall
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83
33, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.
Sport Concert Complex (SKK)
QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17
10, www.spbckk.ru.
Yubileiny Sports Palace
QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7)
812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru.
august events
01.08 Friday - 06.08 Wednesday
Open Cinema
Under the twilight skies on the banks of the Neva at Peter and Paul’sFortress and in the Rodina theatre will take
place the tenth annual Open Cinema festival. This festival
is popular for its relaxed attitude and openness, showing
not only short films and animations but also music, design projects and art installations. On a warm summer’s
evening, this is a perfect setting to relax with friends, food
and drink and enjoy a variety of contemporary cinema.
After the growing success of the festival now in its tenth
year, it promises not to be the last.QD-2, Peter and Paul
Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 85 08, www.
opencinemafest.ru.
02.08 Saturday
Night of Light
Got no plans for the night of August 2nd and the early
hours of August 3rd? Good because it would be a shame
to miss the return of the “Night of Light” festival after last
year’s successful debut. This is a grandiose pyrotechnical
show under the stars that takes place in Gatchinsky Park
and turns the area into a magical country full of wonders
and captivating mysteries. Starting at 23:00, theatrical
performances and laser shows will blur the lines between
reality and fiction and take you on a journey that will make
the Gatchinsky Palace come alive and become the main
“actor” until 3 o’clock in the morning. The themes this year
will be varied but all of them will in one way or another
be connected to the Gatchins, the Gatchinsky Palace and
the Palace park. One show lasts approximately 15 minutes
and at the end there will be a special multimedia surprise
at the Beloye Lake that should not be missed.QGatchina,
tel. (+7) 812 958 03 66, www.gatchinanights.ru Tickets
600Rbl.
You can buy tickets for many events at
www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru
10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
05.08 Tuesday
20:00 Slayer
After Kerrang! Magazine described 1986’s ‘Reign In Blood’ as
the “heaviest album of all time”, the band have been defining
thrash metal ever since, racking up four gold selling albums,
four Grammy nominations with victories in 2007 and 2008.
The band’s “breakneck speed and instrumental prowess”
and “wildly chaotic” controversial lyrics have attracted a huge
international following alongside the biggest metal bands
like Metallica, Megadeth and Anthrax. Performing their first
new song in five years, ‘Implode’, in April 2014, the band has
recently promised new releases to continue a legacy already
permanently etched in the history of heavy metal. QD-1,
Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812
309 99 22, www.slayer.net. Tickets 1,600 - 4,000Rbl.
21.08 Thursday
20:00 The Glitch Mob
Dubbed “lazer bass” by the New Yorker, this American group
combines glitch electronica with heavy throbbing bass.
Reaching fame as underground DJs, the bands members
perform with midi controllers and laptops, sparking a fusion
of danceable of bass music with a rock concert vibe. Only
four years on from their debut album, this year’s ‘Love Death
Immortality’ puts live performance in prime position, where
shuddering bass and ringing synths will be sure to leave
Cosmonavt throbbing, before taking the EDM festivals by
storm this summer.QD-4, Cosmonavt Club, Bronnitskaya
ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33
33, www.theglitchmob.com. Tickets 800 - 2,500Rbl.
september events
05.09 Friday
20:00 Apollo Brown
Hailing from hip hop hotspots Detroit and Chicago, the
beatmaker Apollo Brown returns to St Petersburg with
up and coming MCs Red Pill and Verbal Kent promoting
their self-titled album, released in May 2013 on Mello
Music Group. With heavy beats and slick rhymes of collaborations with Guilty Simpson and OC as well as many
bandcamp released instrumentals in his individual heavy
bouncing style, Apollo Brown’s latest project is about
“blue collar individuals who make the world go round”.
The album’s positive reception underlines Apollo’s reputation in the underground hip hop scene, while impressive
MC performances promise a big future.QD-4, Cosmonavt Club, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky
Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.apollobrown.
bandcamp.com. Tickets 600 - 1,300Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
cinema
If you are looking for a night at the movies without
having to play some sophisticated form of charades to
work out what’s going on - we have good news for you.
There are now movie cinemas in St. Petersburg that
show movies in English or their original language. If
you are looking for a truly English experience you can’t
go past the Angleterre which now shows all movies
in English with Russian subtitles. Formula Kino also
show some films in English as does Avrora. Dom Kino
shows art house movies and you can expect to come
across movies in all sorts of languages. So if you want to
chill out with a good movie in English or practice one
of your other languages, check out these cinemas and
enjoy a night at the movies.
Angleterre Cinema Lounge
QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www.
angleterrecinema.ru.
Avrora
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942
80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru.
Dom Kino
QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru.
Formula Kino Galeria
QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www.
formulakino.ru.
13.09 Saturday
19:00 Il Divo
The world renowned operatic super group, Il Divo, bring
their own unique renditions of Broadway favourites, pop
interpretations and classics to St Petersburg’s New Arena.
Formed in 2004 by the infamous Simon Cowell, the UK’s
international music group comprises Spanish baritone Carlos Marín, French pop singer Sébastien Izambard, American
tenor David Miller, and Swiss tenor Urs Bühler. With albums
and singles hitting number one spots globally, the group
have sold a staggering 26 million albums worldwide, while
their latest, A Musical Affair, released in 2013, provides more
of the same winning formula.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 703 40 40, www.
ildivo.com. Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl.
August - September 2014
11
Culture & Events
Forecast for the
autumn: philharmonia
As the days get shorter
the nights get longer,
meaning theaters and
concert halls celebrate
the start of a whole new
season; as the temperature on the street falls,
on the stage it only gets
hotter!
As is by now tradition, the Large Hall of the St. Petersburg Philharmonic will kick off the season on September 25th, the birthday of the prominent Russian
composer and pianist, Dmitri Shostakovich. On this
day maestro Yuri Temirkanov and his musicians will
perform the Tenth Symphony of the great composer.
But the evening will not end here: Nikolai Lugansky will
delight the audience with a rendition of Rachmaninov’s
Third concerto.
The following day has two exciting events in store. Ekaterina Mechetina will mark the start of the Academic
Orchestra season with a performance of Mozart’s 20th
concerto and Alexander Dmitriev, the artistic director
of the orchestra, will take to the conductor’s stand for
Chaikovsky’s Fifth Symphony and Weber’s “Euryanthe”.
October 1st marks International Music Day so the
Large Hall welcomes Denis Matsuev and Sergey Krilov,
the Philharmonic Orchestra and Yuri Temirkanov who
will perform Prokofiev’s Piano Concerto Number 3,
Saint-Saëns’ Introduction and Rondo Capriccioso and
“Pictures at an Exhibition”, Mussorgsky’s most famous
piano composition.
After a one day break, the program will return on October 3rd with one of Mahler’s most profound musical
compositions “Das Lied der Erde” (“The Song of the
Earth”). The program for the 5th includes a performance
by Peter Laul; on the 11th the Lucerne Festival Orchestra performs Bach, Mendelson and Chaikovsky; on the
24th two great “Requiems” of Mozart and Schnittke can
be heard; and the 30th will delight music lovers with
pieces by the famous Russian composer Mikhail Glinka.
The start of November will bring the best of Smetana and
Dvořák to the public (on the 2nd) and on the 9th something truly unique can be witnessed: the Indian percussion band of Zakir Hussain. At the end of the month, a
“knightly quest for the heart of the beautiful lady among
the stars of world opera” will be held and all evening we
will hear pieces from Rossini, Donizetti and Mozart.
Apart from the above-mentioned, all kinds of organ
concerts, jazz performances and musical/poetic evenings await us this autumn!
Grand Philharmonic Hall
QD-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.
12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
18.09 Thursday
20:00 Sasha Almazova and Non Cadenza
Sasha Almazova & Non
Cadenza have become
one of the biggest funk
soul artists in Russia over
the past nine years. They
are a regular feature in the
nation’s biggest jazz festivals, and have also toured
extensively in Ukraine
and Belarus. The group’s
albums
Beskonechnost
(2011) and Neprilichno (2013) have succeeded in combining an essence of Russian music with a modern funk and
melodic languid soul. The fusion of Almazova’s sensitively
delivered thoughtful lyrics with the group’s tight sound
has seen them share the stage with the likes of the UK’s
Cinematic Orchestra.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812
303 33 33, www.noncadenza.ru. Tickets 400 - 1,500Rbl.
26.09 Friday
20:00 The Fratellis
After the success of the stratospheric single, ‘Chelsea Dagger’, and their Brit award winning first album ‘Costello Music’ in 2006, The Fratellis made an undeniably huge impact
on the British, and indeed international, indie rock scene.
Although followed by extensive touring and a second album, the band split up in 2009 to pursue individual projects. However, the bond of the fratelli (Italian for brothers)
proved too strong, and the band’s third album ‘We Need
Medicine’ is a return to form for the Scottish trio, with
more energetic rock’n’roll anthems to leave Cosmonavt
ringing.QD-4, Cosmonavt Club, Bronnitskaya ul. 24,
MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33,
www.thefratellis.com. Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl.
27.09 Saturday
20:00 Instrumenti
The two academically
trained musicians from
Riga who comprise Instrumenti create music not
quite falling neatly into any
of the genres indie pop,
dance and experimental
electronic. When playing
live they use electronic
equipment just as much as
their acoustic instruments,
creating a unique sound from a wealth of influences as diverse as Muse, Sigur Rós and Michael Jackson. Their 2013
album, ‘Procrastination’, includes so many eclectic instruments and electronic effects that its translation as a live
performance should not be missed.QD-4, Cosmonavt
Club, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. Tekhnologichesky Institut, www.instrumenti.
in. Tickets 800 - 2,000Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Exhibitions
through 30.09 Tuesday
Van Gogh Alive
This interactive exhibition portrays the painting of Van
Gogh in a way you have never seen it before. The painter’s
works are projected onto a screen in complete darkness
with an accompaniment of classical music. The exhibition
also includes images from Van Gogh’s life revealing his environment and some of the things that inspired the great
artist.QD-2, Konyshennaya pl. 1, MNevsky pr., www.
vangoghalive.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sun 11:00 23:00. Admission 300 - 600Rbl.
The Ruin of Nicholas II’s
family
05.06 Thursday - 24.08 Sunday
This exhibition is dedicated to the murder of the tsar’s
family near Ekaterinburg in 1918 and details the events
leading up to the tragedy and its consequences. It also
looks at the process of discovering the remains and identifying them which occurred in the 1990s. The exhibition
is based on materials from the state archives and includes
personal items from the tsar’s family supplied by the State
Hermitage Museum. The materials detail the life of the
tsar’s family from March 1917 (just after the February Revolution) to July 1918, following their journey under house
arrest. It also includes audio recordings of people who
participated in the murder.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.
spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Tue 11:00 - 18:00.
Cirque Éloize
through 31.08 Sunday
Vladislav Mamyshev-Monro: The Life of
the Great Monro
This exhibition is an overview of the creativity of one of
Russia’s great contemporary artists. The exhibition delves
into the revolutionary character of Mamyshev-Monro,
whose works became symbolic of Russia’s period of social
breakdown and economic collapse. The artist was born
in 1969 and was expelled from school at an early age for
drawing caricatures of Politburo members. While serving
at Baikonur with the army he ran a children’s art club. However it is for his scandalous performances and his paintings
that he achieved fame and for which he is remembered.
His works are held in the Russian Museum and the Moscow Museum of Contemporary Art as well in numerous
private collections. Mamyshev-Monro died in Bali just
over a year ago.QC-2, Novy Musey (New Museum), 6-ya
liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 323 50 90,
www.novymuseum.ru.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
18.10 Saturday - 25.10 Saturday
Visits from the world-famous Cirque de Soleil are
eagerly awaiting – notwithstanding Russia’s own
mastery of the Big Top, the international troupe from
Canada never fails to deliver a show-stopping event in
its own right. In 2014, meanwhile, audiences are being treated to a new spectacle. Cirque Éloize, a spin-off
founded in 1994, has long earned a great reputation
for pushing the boundaries of circus art and has already thrilled Moscow audiences with its ‘Rain’ show.
This time we get Cirque Éloize iD, a modern-day Romeo & Juliet from the heart of the urban jungle. A cutting-edge contemporary soundtrack and a dazzling
stage show bring together a fresh new take on an eternal love story. Combining the grace of ballet with the
breathtaking showmanship of a top acrobat, the production is set to wow audiences in Russia just as it has
in dozens of cities around the world. October brings
just eight St. Petersburg dates – book early! QA-1, SK
Sibur Arena, Futbolnaya alley 8, MKrestovsky Ostrov, www.cds.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl.
August - September 2014
13
Culture & Events
Upsala Park
This is a park to entertain the whole family. The concept behind the park is to give adults and children
alike a place where they can put aside their mobile
phones and any other electronic gadgetry and spend
time with each other having fun. Apart from being located in a nice green environment where people can
enjoy being outdoors, the park also runs a series of
programmes throughout the summer including master classes with musicians and artists, and even cooking workshops.QF-1, Sverdlovskaya nab. 44, MPl.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 633 35 58, www.upsala-park.ru.
About igor cholaria
The contemporary Russian artist Igor Cholaria was influenced by
French impressionists
and early 20th century
avant-garde especially
by such painters as
Picasso, Braque and
Modigliani. However, it
is clear that he was also
influenced by Russian
icon paintings and the renaissance masters. His style
is an organic synthesis of various styles from different
periods and he consequently refers to his own works
as a retrospective. In his work he adds new ideas to
old and is prepared to take a step backwards to take
two steps forward. Over the past 20 years the artist
has worked extensively with English, Belgian and
Dutch galleries and his works have been purchased
by Madonna, John Galliano, Gerard Depardieu among
others. The artist is in the prime of life and able to surprise not only the public, but even himself.
QMoscow, Alla Bulyanskaya Gallery, Ul. Krymsky
Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 926 207 22 42,
www.allabulgallery.com
QSt. Petersburg, Pushkinskaya ul. 10, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 921 941 82 82, www.tcholaria.com.
14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
13.08 Wednesday - 13.10 Monday
Family Portrait
On 13th August in the Benois wing of the Russian
Museum will open the new
‘Family Portrait’ exhibition. This collection of 200
paintings and sculptures
from the 18th century to
the beginning of the 20th
aim to show the traditions,
festivals and everyday concerns of Russian family life, and
will include the iconic Realist work of famous Soviet artists like Nikolai Andronov, Fyodor Bogorodsky and Dmitry
Zhilinsky. The contemporary St Petersburg creative group
Koldovskie khudozhniki (Magical artists) has created an installation piece on the theme of the reputation of the artist
in the context of family life, and another area of the exhibition shows an archive collection of family photos submitted by the people of St Petersburg. QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
18.06 Wednesday - 18.08 Monday
Paper Sculpture
This new exhibition, held in the Marble Palace of the Russian
Museum, presents over 100 sculptures made purely from paper. The 60 artists who will display their work include sculptors, painters, graphic artists and designers all originally from
St Petersburg and Moscow. Whilst their artistic direction and
techniques may vary, they are united by the fact that paper is
their source of creativity. Unlike conventional sculptures made
from metal, stone or clay, paper presents a two-dimensional
challenge that is far from easy to overcome. Simplistic as it
may sound the artists use the likes of plain paper or corrugated cardboard to create a final outcome that, frankly, one
could not never have imagined to begin with. QD-2, Russian
Museum, Marble Palace, Millionnaya ul. 5/1, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
03.09 Wednesday - 03.11 Monday
Valentin Sidorov. My calm homeland
This exhibition introduces the work of Valentin Sidorov, winner of the State Prize of the USSR in 1984. The exhibition
will be on display from the 3rd of September until October
2014. Born in 1928 Sidorov is an acting member of the Russian Academy of Arts and Chairman of the Union of Artists
of Russia. The exposition will display 90 of his most creative
works from 1950 to 2000. He is considered the master of the
“Spiritualised landscape”, with his art often pertaining to nature, it’s eternal cycle and how it is connected to the people
of the Russian countryside. Epitomising the national character of the USSR Sidorov’s work unsurprisingly addresses
the motherland, analysing the so-called Russian soul.QD-2,
Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
6+
Nikolaevsky Palace, 4a pl. Truda, St. Petersburg
Telephone: +7 (812) 312 55 00, 312 88 58
e-mail: [email protected]
www.folkshow.ru
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
August - September 2014
15
Culture & Events
Manifesta 10
Manifesta is arguably the most prestigious and important
art event in Europe and has been taking place on a biennial basis for the past 20 years now. It’s principle vision was
to provide a platform for cultural exchange across Europe,
especially in the aftermath of the Cold War. Twenty years
after the first Manifesta in 1996, over one million people
have participated in the events and enjoyed programs in
which artists, curators and young professionals from forty
countries have presented themselves and their work. Many
of Europe’s finest cities have played host to this esteemed
event, including Rotterdam, Luxembourg, Ljublana and
Frankfurt, however we can say with pride that this year St.
Petersburg has the honour of hosting the 10th Manifesta,
running from June 28th until October 31st 2014.
The main events will be held in the stunning location of
the Palace Square, split with two thirds of the events held
at the General staff building and one third held at the
Winter Palace (the Hermitage). Despite falling under
the general title ‘contemporary art’, the range of events
available for public viewing are incredibly diverse and
wide-ranging. Consequently, in this feature we have tried
our best to identify some of the best picks from Manifesta,
the events that are truly unmissable. But to really make the
most of the this magnificent event, try and leave yourself a
day and immerse yourself in as much as you can, as there
will be countless interesting and intriguing artists, talks
and exhibitions here merely at the touch of your fingertips!
Must-see Manifesta’s
One of the more surreal
works on offer comes from
Japanese artist Tatzu Nishi.
His signature style, known as
‘reframing’, attempts to alter
the viewer’s perception of an
object they already consider
themselves to know well.
Typically working with urban
monuments, he transforms
them in hotel rooms in a way that induces fresh contemplation from the viewer. It will definitely make for a better experience if you go to this exhibition with no preconceptions, so
you won’t find any spoilers or plot twists here! Just to rouse
your curiosity, Nishi’s work in the Hermitage is entitled “So
I only want to love yours”; to find out what on earth that
means, you’ll have to check it out yourself.
16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
Named aptly after Chekhov’s short story, Fritsch’s
sculpture ‘Lady and the
Lapdog’ does great justice
to this classic. This work is
worth visiting for the setting
alone, and you will find it in
the Boudoir of the Winter
Palace, a beautiful location
indeed. Both lady and lapdog are composed entire of seashells, creating a captivating
and mesmerising sight, so remember; look - don’t touch!
This is a wonderful opportunity to see an integral aspect of
the traditional aristocratic boudoir in the mid-19th century.
Moreover Fritsch’s CV is about as long as Nevsky prospekt,
so you know you’re in store for something special here.
Susan Philipsz, ‘The River
Cycle (Neva)’. The Scotlandborn sculptor currently lives
in Germany, and has concentrated on the beauty of
sound in revealing hidden
layers of spaces. Her exhibition involves a 12 channel
recording of grand piano music which will play when going up and down the main staircase of the New Hermitage,
inspired by an image from James Joyce’s ‘Finnegans Wake”.
Make any sense to you? At first it didn’t to us either, so you’ll
have to see it to believe it! It’s worth knowing that this is by
no means Philipsz first biennial, and we hope not her last; an
absolute must-see, or more appropriately, must-hear!
Francis Alÿs’s project, “Lada Kopek”, is a movie portrayal
of the childhood dream of two Belgium brothers, and how it
was eventually realised. The artist said that whilst growing up
the Lada car was a symbol of what lay on the other side of the
iron curtain, a symbol of “the alternative” in life. Along with
his brother, Alÿs tried to make a road trip in this Soviet car
however they barely managed to reach the border of their
home country, Belgium. Thirty years later, as determined as
in his youth, he finally lived out his dream and made the road
trip. The chronicles of his travels have been documented
on camera and you can watch his exciting adventure in the
General Staff Building. Better still, you can even see the very
car that helped the brothers find their dream, which will be
in the Great Courtyard of the Winter Palace.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Unlooped-Kino (the Russian word for cinema), is a program displaying the works of contemporary artists ranging from the 1970’s until the modern day. Their works will
take the form of film and video, otherwise known in the
art world as time-based media. There will be 4 distinct
programs running; ‘Fast Forward’, ‘Body then and now’,
‘New Horizons’ and ‘Eastern Window’. The former three
will present largely from a western perspective while the
last will depict the perspective of Eastern European artists.
Altogether seventy films will be shown, conveniently with
either with Russian and/ or English subtitles. If that isn’t
enough incentive the screenings will be free of charge, so
you’ve got no excuse not to try at least one film!
Of course it’s not all cinema
and films, Otto Tsitko’s has
designed a mural connecting two rooms together
using a kind of tectonic
pattern, thus enveloping
the audience. We realise
that may sound like a random bunch of words simply
strung together, but Tsitko’s
work really needs to be observed first hand; no verbal or
written explanation can really do it justice. The design may
at first seem simple, and perhaps you have interpreted it
that way from our description, however it creates multiple
meaningful variations, effects and experiences.
You won’t need to spend long
at Manifesta to realise that
there is very little mainstream
about it; in a paradoxical
sense everything is the same
in the sense that it is different!
Thomas Hirschhorn’s ‘Cut’,
is yet another offbeat project,
which you can find in one of
the courtyards of the General
Staff Building. Viewers can examine 6 rooms of a St. Petersburg apartment spread across 2 floors. As you will find out,
the word “cut” both underlines the theme of Hirschhorn’s
work as well as bearing metaphorical significance. History
that was once forgotten is again made available to see here, a
tribute to the avant-garde tradition.
Top tips
1. Every day of the Biennial, free Open tours will take
place in the General staff building at 12:00, 14:00 and
16:00.
2. Every last wednesday of the month, starting from
July, Manifesta will run a lively night show, displaying
independent artists and musicians, free with a valid
Hermitage ticket.
3. Every weekend Manifesta 10 conducts free tours of
the General staff building from 10:30 for families with
children.
4. If you want a break from Palace square, head to
Vitebsky station, another key, vibrant venue of Manifesta 10, the first train station in Russia to connect east
and west.
5. Manifesta have an handy app, available to download
for free in the app store. Here is the link, enjoy! www.
Manifesta10.org/en/app/
Boris Mikhailov’s artwork is absolutely worth
your time, if not purely for
the artist’s personal history. During the soviet era
Mikhailov worked in a Ukrainian factory, simultaneously
pursing his own passion for
photography, which he exhibited during the 1960’s.
The KGB came to know that
the artist had taken shots of his naked wife and claimed he
was distributing pornography, leading to Mikhailov losing
his job. Ultimately his photography strives to show social
change as a result of Perestroika and his work received instant success in the West in the 1990’s. His current series,
“Theatre of war, Second Act, Time Out” is not mere
reportage; it is life as seen from the inside, fact not fiction.
His heroes are real people from a range of social backgrounds, convictions and belief systems - truly a must see.
Сheck out the full program at
www.manifesta10.org
If you haven’t haven’t already heard of Vladislav Mamyshev, after viewing his work you certainly won’t forget his
name, however difficult it may be to pronounce! Is he controversial? Perhaps. Is he Fascinating? Undeniably so. This
artist, anarchist, imitator or however you prefer to label him
really made his mark in the 1980’s, when dressing as Marilyn
Monroe earned him discharge from the army. MamyshevMonroe went on to imitate some of history’s biggest names
including Queen Elizabeth, Adolf Hitler and even Russia’s
own Vladimir Putin. His charisma and courage carried him
through a prolific career so take the opportunity to view
some of his work from the series “Doomed Love”.
The beauty of Manifesta is that artists new and old are all
coming together in the name of contemporary art; each
with his or her own unique agenda. With more ideas and
interpretations than you could possibly imagine, Manifesta creates an atmosphere that transcends your typical
art gallery or museum. Here the most eclectic mix people
from each corner of the globe are gathering together to
share their passion and creativity. With a spectacular location and a practically open-ended schedule, we won’t be
forgiving you if you don’t squeeze at least a short visit in!
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August - September 2014
17
Culture & Events
Live music clubs
Russia’s cultural capital is truly buzzing with live music.
Aside from the world famous Mariisnky Theatre, the
city’s contemporary music venues more than hold their
own with other main European cities. Whether it’s pop,
rock, hip hop or jazz you want to see, there is something
for everyone, from the huge capacities and sound systems of Cosmonavt and Aurora to the quiet jazz bars
dotted around the city. St. Petersburg is firmly on the
map for international music tours, so be sure to catch
some world famous acts in an unforgettable venue.
A2
It’s no wonder that A2 claim to be the biggest concert
venue in St. Petersburg, just take a quick look at their
past line-ups. From living legends such a Chuck Berry, to
contemporary bands such as Fall Out Boy, The Smashing
Pumpkins and The National, if there is one thing A2 do
not lack, it’s quality music! It’s hard to believe the venue
has only been around for 2 years given how quickly it has
made a name for itself. With no fewer than 10 bars you
won’t find yourself struggling to buy a drink here. Despite
having 2 concert halls, holding as many as 5,000 people
and 1,500 people, don’t wait around for a ticket, they sell
out fast!QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 309 99 22, www.a2.fm.
Aurora concert hall
This huge arena attracts the biggest DJs from Russia and
abroad, offering space for 2000 people and views of the
cruiser Aurora moored on the Neva from its riverside location near Ploshchad Lenina metro station. The circular
hall opens up onto several levels providing space for 600
seated diners and a 150 strong VIP area. The venue also offers a smaller hall on the second floor with its own bar and
wifi, a restaurant of American and European cuisine and a
wide selection of beers. State of the art lighting and sound
systems establish this as a big deal on the live music scene
in the city. Be sure to check the place out online for upcoming gigs.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina,
tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru.
Culture & Events
five minutes from Tekhnologichesky Institut metro. The
hall stretches back from the stage with space for 1500
people and is flanked by bars on both sides, and a large
mezzanine upper level offers VIP seats and another bar.
The double bar on the main floor saves you from heavy
queuing and offers reasonably priced drinks, and a couple
of clouded stairwells serve as a smoking area. A quality sound and lighting system means the energy really
picks up as the hall fills, underlining it as one of the city’s
principal live music venues. The club is also available to
hire for private functions.QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24,
MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33,
www.cosmonavt.su.
Jazz Philharmonic Hall
As a reviewer one has to admit that we are often guilty
of throwing around the words ‘Unique’ and ‘Original’. Despite this, it cannot be denied that the Jazz Philharmonic
truly is one of a kind, distinct to St. Petersburg in both its
genre of music and its atmosphere. The red lamplit tables
create a surreal setting as the musicians on stage wish you
away into the world of jazz. The intimate nature of the
venue allows the audience to connect with performers in
a way that larger venues simply could never achieve. Romantic and also full of life, if you feel the urge to dance
don’t resist the temptation - there’s more than enough
room! To top it off, there’s also delicious cocktails, coffee
and deserts available to order at a moments notice.QE-3,
Zagorodny pr. 27, MZvenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764
85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.
JFC Jazz Club
Zal Ozhidaniya
The owners of Zal Ozhidaniya (the name is translated as
“Waiting Room”) have really taken the idea of a concert
venue and made it their own. Priding themselves on
their all-embracing attitude towards music, fans of rock,
pop, rap and indie will all find themselves at home here.
We are not sure which is more diverse; the international
artists that perform here night after night, or the various
music lovers that follow them in. In any case, this club is
all about variety. The club is ideally located, situated centrally between stations Baltiskaya and Frunzenskaya and
there’s also a convenient car park for the drivers amongst
you. With a chill-out room, VIP area and plenty of comfy
sofas, don’t be afraid to enjoy a moment of your feet - trust
us, the way the Russians party, you’ll need one!QE-4, Nab.
Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333
10 68, www.clubzal.com.
The low lit assorted tables
and chairs in front of a low
stage watched over by the
jazz legends on the wall
immediately underline JFC
as the real deal. The stage
has a full kit, baby grand
and decent sound and
lighting. The bar menu,
although innovatively displayed over a CD case, suffers from this compact format,
where only a few cocktails accompany few beers and
spirits. The ambience is that of a jazz bar that doesn’t try
too hard, but effortlessly succeeds in shrouding you in a
cool jazz vibe. At full stretch, the bar can accommodate
up to a hundred audience members varying from local
jazz fanatics to opportunist tourists. Tickets on the door
will offer standing room, or a more expensive table, for a
gig that could range from jazz standards to experimental
funk from one night to the next.QE-2, Shpalernaya ul.
33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 98 50, www.
jfc-club.spb.ru.
Jimi Hendrix Blues Club
Under the bare brick arches of an intimate bar is a jumble of
wooden tables and chairs directed towards a small stage.
The blues fans of St. Petersburg gather every night to listen to energetic performers who may even roam through
the crowd and onto tables. There is a quiet buzz to this innocuous bar, frequented by true blues lovers and tourists
alike, where a big blue musical heart beats through the
cosy basement. A reasonably priced drinks menu is available, including a strong array of spirits and cocktails to sip
on to complete the experience. With its bare vintage brick
and wooden aesthetic and posters nodding to the blues
legends, the atmosphere is laid back but flared into life by
the camaraderie of enthusiastic musicians and audience
alike.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru.
Club Cosmonavt
Cosmonavt’s cavernous hall and great stage make it a
popular destination for Russian and international big
names, like Bristol’s Bonobo and drum and bass DJ Benny
Page. The club is situated on Moskovsky prospekt, only
18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
jazz clubs
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restaurants
The idea of combining some of the city’s great cuisine
and the popularity of live jazz has thankfully been
nailed here in St Petersburg. At 48 chairs and Port Artur
you can eat your fill of delectable dishes from the city’s
finest chefs and then sit back and digest to the jazz accompaniment of St Petersburg’s top musicians.
48 chairs
An elegant but cosy venue whose walls are crammed
with black and white photos, this is a great place to
have a sumptuous meal and catch a bit of quality live
jazz. Head chef Vasily Soldatov’s improvisation in the
kitchen matches that of the city’s top jazz musicians
who play nightly at 48 Chairs, taking inspiration from
so many of the world’s cuisines and combining them
in his own key signature. The drinks menu contains
an impressive selection of wines to accompany the
unique cooking and a long list of liqueurs, aperitifs
and digestifs will complete the jazz bar experience.
The vibrant cooking makes for an unforgettable meal
and you’ll be tempted to work your way through the
drinks list whilst reclining to some smooth blues to
become that last lingering guest for whom the restaurant promises to stay open.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 77 75,
www.48chairs.com.
Port Artur
Port Artur offers you the wonderful opportunity to
enjoy a lovely meal and listen to some smooth jazz
music at the same time (madness…we know!) No
compromises are made on the quality of either. The
restaurant itself is perfectly proportioned, orientated
around a fashionable bar that makes a very classy centrepiece. With such a wide variety of dishes to select,
the biggest issue we faced was narrowing down our
choices! Nonetheless, the staff’s refined knowledge
proved it’s value and the end result was simply delightful. To guarantee yourself live music try and turn
up at the weekend, though it has to be said that even
without music, the atmosphere, bar and food will do
anything but disappoint.QE-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul.
12/17, MZnenigorodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 953 32 50,
www.portartur-spb.ru.
August - September 2014
19
Features
smolny district
Smolny is the district of the royalty and nobility. As
such the tour will take you past some of the most elegant buildings and nicest parks in St. Petersburg.
The district is also intimately connected with some of the
most shocking and tragic events in Russia’s history.
Start out at Nevsky pr. metro station and head north
towards the traditional Orthodox cathedral Church of the
Saviour of the Spilt Blood along Griboedov Canal. The
canal was originally constructed during the reign of Catherine the Great in 1764-1790. In 1923 the canal was renamed
Griboedov Canal in honour of the Russian playwright and
diplomat Alexander Griboedov (1795 – 1829). Griboedov is
largely famous for his play Woe from Wit (Gore ot uma). He
was a talented linguist and diplomat and was killed along
with his entire legation by an angry mob in Persia while
trying to protect three Armenians.
Continue north from the Church of the Saviour of
the Spilt Blood and pass by Mikhailovsky Garden. Over
the Moika river you will come to Marsovo Pole (Field of
Mars). This field was originally a recreational area. At the
end of the 18th century the meadow was taken over as an
army drilling ground. In the early 19th century it became
known as the Field of Mars. Following the 1917 Revolution,
several revolutionaries were interred here and it became a
memorial. Located in the centre of the field is the eternal
flame. It was the first in Russia, being introduced in 1967.
To the northern side of the field, next to the Neva River
is Suvorov Square and a statue to Field Marshal Alexander Suvorov (1727-1800). The general is often thought
of as Russia’s greatest military leader. Of the 93 battles he
commanded, he never lost.
If you follow the road east either along the Neva River
or along the Moika River embankment you come to the
Summer Garden. The park was originally designed by Peter the Great. A significant attraction of the garden was the
fountains which were the first in Russia.
Leaving the Summer Garden to return to the banks of the
Neva River and continue north-east crossing from Dvortsovaya Nab. (Palace Embankment) over Prachechny Most
(Laundry bridge) onto Nab. Kutuzova named after the Russian field marshal who commanded Imperial forces during
Napoleon’s invasion of Russia. It was Mikhail Kutuzov who
oversaw the Battle of Borodino in 1812 and the retreat from
Moscow which lead to the overall defeat of the Grande Armée.
This location also offers nice views of the Neva River with the
background of the Peter and Paul Fortress. The fortress is St.
Petersburg’s first building and was founded in 1703.
20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Features
Continuing along the embankment turn right at the
first opportunity onto Gagarinskaya ulitsa, named after
Yury Gagarin (1934-1968) the first man in space. Gagarin
was a pilot before being selected for the Soviet space programme. His first and only space flight was upon the Vostok
1 on 12 April 1961. He died in a plane crash in 1968. If you
feel inclined to honour the career of the world’s first cosmonaut, drop in for a fine Belgium beer at Craft Pub – with
over 40 varieties you can spend an afternoon enjoying the
search for the right beer to celebrate Yury Gagarin!
After honouring Gagarin, continue to the south, and
turn right at the first intersection onto ulitsa Tchaikovskogo. The spelling might look unusual but this street is
named in after the great composer, Petr Illich Tchaikovsky (1840-1893). Tchaikovsky is perhaps best known for
his 1812 Overture and Swan Lake.
Continue west until you reach Solyanoy pereulok
(Salt Lane), named after the salt stores for tanneries that
used to be located in the area. Turn left, go through two
intersections you and will see the Museum to the Defence of Leningrad (building 9). This museum is absorbing. It depicts the survival and defence of the city during
the blockade.
After the museum continue south and turn left at
ulitsa Pestelya. This area is receiving a new lease of life
and is the home for a range of new restaurants and bars
with a lively nightlife. After three short blocks, crossing
over Liteiny Prospekt you will enter Transfigurational
Square with the Cathedral of the Transfiguration. This
is one of the few Russian churches that has never been
closed. The cathedral was built under Empress Elizaveta
Petrovna (1709-1762) in 1743-1754. It was reconstructed in
1825-1829 in the Empire style.
If you leave Transfigurational square by Manezhny
pereulok (Manege Lane) you will find yourself walking
down one of the few untouched, unblemished old streets of
St. Petersburg. Both sides of the lane are enclosed by lovely
19th century apartment buildings. Continuing to the end
of the street you reach ulitsa Vosstaniya (Uprising Street)
named in honour of the 1917 February Revolution. This
street is now starting to come alive with a range of quality
restaurants and bars. Drop in on Pivnaya Karta (Beer Card) at
ul. Vosstaniya 55 – the flashy New York interior is enough to
make you want to celebrate Russia’s culinary revolution.
Head south and duck along ulitsa Ryleeva and then
head south down ulitsa Radichsheva, you will find yourself in the midst of St. Petersburg’s military past. This area is
intimately connected with Imperial Russia’s former military
glory, being used as military barracks. Ulitsa Ryleeva is now
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named in honour of a Decembrist who was involved in the
failed December 1825 coup against Nicholas I. Since 1935
ulitsa Radishcheva has been named after the 18th century
writer and philosopher Alexander Radishchev whose work
Journey from St. Petersburg to Moscow criticised serfdom.
His worked earned him exile to Siberia under Catherine the
Great who called him a “rebel worse than Pugachev”.
On reaching Vilensky pereulok turn left. This lane
housed a large number of soldiers with parade grounds.
The lane was named in 1922 in honour of Lithuania’s capital. Turn left on reaching Paradnaya ulitsa (Parade street).
This street lead directly to the Preobrazhensky Regimental barracks and was used for military drills and parades.
The regiment was relocated here from Moscow in 1723.
The unit was formed from the tsar’s play army with which
he used to play war games as a boy and was named after
the village where they played.
Continue heading north until you reach a large and attractive park, the Tauride Garden (Tavrichesky Sad). It was
laid out in 783-1789 on the estate of Grigory Potemkin (17391791) behind the Tauride Palace. Potemkin was a long
standing minister of war and lover of Catherine the Great.
He was granted the title Prince of Tauride for the conquest
of Crimea in 1783. On the north-eastern side of the gardens
is the Tauride Palace – the grandest palace owned by a nobleman in the 18th century that was built in 1783-1789.
Heading south from the Tauride Palace go down Tavricheskaya ulitsa and turn left onto Tverskaya ulitsa. This street
is home to many mansions built at the beginning of the
20th century. The novelty of this street is the Old Believers
Church. In the 17th century deviations were discovered in
the Russian Orthodox Church as a result of bad translations
and copying. Patriarch Nikon attempted to correct these
deviations, leading to a schism within the Orthodox Church.
Those who refused to accept the new creed were sent into
exile. Following a manifesto of religious tolerance (1905) this
church was built in 1906-1907. The church is unique in its use
of the Novgorod architecture mixed with art nouveau elements. A few houses down from the church is the Shalyapin
restaurant at building 12 – named after the famous Russian
opera singer Fedor Shalyapin (1873-1938) who established
the naturalistic school of opera.
Continuing east you will reach a main road and a large
park. You are now at the centre of St. Petersburg’s city government and on Dictatorship of the Proletariat Prospekt. Head north and sense the power of the proletariat!
On your right you will come to one of St. Petersburg’s
most impressive cathedrals, Smolny Cathedral. The cathedral was originally built as part of a convent complex for the
illegitimate Elizaveta Petrovna, however, instead of becoming a nun, she became empress. The church was built in
1748-1764. The building today is used for concerts and weddings. To the left of Smolny Cathedral is the Smolny institute. This building was constructed in 1806-1808 for educating aristocratic maidens. In 1917 the building was chosen as
the Bolshevik headquarters during the October/November
Revolution. In 1934, Sergey Kirov (1886-1934) was assassinated here. His death acted as the pretext for Stalin’s Great
Purge. The Smolny Institute now houses a museum to Lenin.
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Daily degustations,
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August - September 2014
21
Feature
Features
Krestovksy Island:
St. Petersburg’s
best breaks
Krestovsky and Yelagin islands provide a
wonderful alternative to the ever-buzzing
city centre - no wonder you find Russians
gravitating towards them on weekends.
There’s enough activities to occupy even the
most ambitious amongst you, so we’ve picked
out the best bits of both islands. With places
to eat, museums to ponder and parks to
admire, go at your own pace, relax and enjoy.
22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
The origin of the name of the Island is still contested to this
day. Many claim the name refers to a lake on the Island,
which appears to be cross-shaped. Others, however, suggest that on Swedish maps the Island is referred to, in Finish, as “Cross Island”. Whilst the Russians may contest the
name of the Island, one thing they definitely do not contest
is that there is plenty of fun to be had here! It therefore
should come as no surprise that over the weekend the Petersburgers flock in their masses to Krestovsky Island.
The simplest way to access the Island is by metro; the station, Krestovsky Ostrov, is located on the Purple V5 line in
the north of St. Petersburg. Fortunately the metro only has
one entry and exit point, so there’s no need to think twice
about which way to go. After exiting the metro simply walk
down the steps towards ulitsa Ryukhina, and if in doubt,
follow the crowd! Once you approach the road you will find
yourself with several choices depending on the kind of itinerary you’re looking for. By the end of this feature we hope
that any individual can plan out a lovely day at Krestovky
Island, just as the locals do!
One great option available to you is walking along Yuzhnaya doroga. Whilst there may not be any specific destination awaiting you here, this street really captures the
essence of Krestovsky Island. To find it exit the metro and
turn turn left on ulitsa Ryukhina and continue walking up
until Krestovsky prospekt. Turn right on Krestovsky prospekt
and then keep straight until you reach a roundabout. At the
roundabout continue straight and you will find yourself on
Yuzhnaya doroga. Without having any end goal in mind,
walk at leisure down this street and you will pass numerous
bars, cafes and restaurants. Instead of picking and settling
on any one place, why not consider trying out a few different ones, after all, variety is the spice of life! If you need a
little inspiration, check out two of our favourite bar/clubs
Vozdukh and Zimaleto. Better yet however, keep your eyes
pealed for shashlik tents. These are small tents dotted all
around the Island, where you can buy beer and other beverages, or classic snacks like corn on the cob. The beauty of
this kind of dining, and what makes it so popular with Russians, lies in its simplicity. It’s just going back to basics; good
food and good company - all out in the fresh air.
Having left the metro station, another great choice is Divo
Island, the funfair ground that truly put Krestovsky island
on the map. It’s impossible to miss, located no more than 20
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metres from the metro exit, just across the road. Remember
that feeling as a child, walking into a sweet shop? The same
kind of nostalgia awaits you at Divo Island. Entry to the funfair is free and customers need only pay per ride, however it
is possible to buy a pass for the day, allowing you to enjoy
as many rides as you’d like at a fraction of the cost. The rides
really are very diverse; there are ‘children’s rides’, ‘family rides’
and ‘extreme rides’. For our braver readers, we dare you to
try out Booster or Catapult - at your own risk of course! The
park is open from 12:00 until 23:00 on weekdays and 11:00
until 24:00 on weekends, but bear in mind that the more
extreme rides open slightly later. A handy local tip is that
the prices drop after 21.00; this may prove to be cheaper
but perhaps consider the consequences of riding the roller
coasters straight after dinner!
Divo Island really is a child’s dream come true, making
Krestovsky Island a place for the whole family. Nonetheless,
Russian couples and groups of friends alike all come out
here to make the most of the sunshine and enjoy themselves in a way you might think only children can. When
you’re in the park you’ll notice people skating around on
roller blades or riding around on bicycles - this is a mustdo! As well as being a fun mode of transport it is also a
convenient way to get around, and with so many beautiful
features in the park to take in, strap on your wheels and
head in any and every direction. There are so many little
stalls selling snacks, treats and drinks, you’re guaranteed to
come across a bench where you can eventually sit down
and enjoy them along with the view!
The football fans amongst you may relish the opportunity
of viewing Zenit St. Petersburg’s stadium, or what’s left
of it! Formerly known as Kirov stadium, Zenit’s home is
currently undergoing a complete renovation. Interestingly,
to settle on a design for the stadium, a competition was
set up, and following a unanimous vote, Japanese architect
Kisho Kurokawa won. His project has generated a lot of
publicity, largely due to its intriguing name, “Spaceship”.
The refurbished, state of the art stadium will have a capacity of no fewer than 62,000 seats. The stadium is situated
on the West of the Island and, hopefully, it should prove
easy to find! After exiting the metro station cross the road
and head left. Take the first right, Batareinaya doroga, and
continue down this road until you approach a roundabout.
Head straight on at the roundabout, again along Batareinaya doroga, and in no time you’ll be able to see the stadium
ahead of you.
August - September 2014
23
Features
This feature has hopefully left you with plenty of food for
thought, but in case you’d like one final option, exit the
metro and turn right along ulitsa Ryukhina. Keep walking
until you reach Yelagin Most, at which point you can turn
left along naberezhnaya Martynova. Here you can take
a romantic walk alongside the river, making for a splendid
view. Not only are there more shashliks here, but also a
number of open air bars and restaurants, making a lovely
alternative to the hot, stuffy city centre. Walking straight
ahead as you approach the end of naberezhnaya Martynova there is a Yaught club, displaying some of the finest
yaughts St. Petersburg has to offer. Of course it is also possible to use Yelagin most to cross over onto Yelagin Island;
to find out more feel free to take a read of our other feature!
Ultimately, Krestovsky Island gives you the chance to jump
off the tourist trail. The Island is a great escape from the fast
pace of life in the city centre and in a way allows you to relive your youth too, and let’s be honest, no one’s getting any
younger! As always, save the best until last, so here’s one
final piece of advice; Krestovsky Island is a truly wonderful
place to simply get lost on, so use the directions merely as a
guide and nothing more. Whether walking along the river,
along the coast, or through the funfair, don’t worry about
where you’re going, the sense fun and adventure will find
you, we guarantee it!
Yelagin Island
An island which is entirely parkland is the perfect place
for a leafy stroll, echoing the sun drenched Vondelpark of
Amsterdam or the dappled pathways of Paris. The island
lies between the Bolshaya and Srednaya Nevka; its western tip offers a view point of the Gulf of Finland and at
its eastern shore a view down the Bolshaya Nevka towards
mainland St. Petersburg. Exiting Krestovsky metro station
facing the park opposite, you should turn right and follow
the road to the bridge to Yelagin Island. Once there, following the winding pathways between the trees eventually
reveals a well-kept lawn stretching towards the elegant
bright white Yelagin palace peeping out from the trees.
A meandering stream of people of all ages can be found
wandering or roller blading along the twisting paths,
over bridges and under the dappled light of the trees.
The 237 acres of gardens have faithfully preserved centuries old trees and special flora, and because of this some
areas are indeed off limits. There are convenient cafes hiding amongst the trees, play areas for children and even the
chance to take a boat or pedalo out on the island’s ponds.
The island, the smallest of the Kirov islands in the Neva’s
24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Features
delta, was inhabited by fishermen before the city was even
founded. It was presented to Peter the Great by Peter
Shafirov in 1709, his vice chancellor, but was taken back
after Shafirov faced a death sentence in 1723 for embezzlement. Previously named after a bear allegedly spotted by
soldiers on the island in the 18th century, the park’s current
name derives from a famously hospitable former owner of
the island, Ivan Yelagin (1725-1794), who made all gardens open to the public.
The radiant Yelagin Palace stands proudly at the head
of a long sweeping lawn, where two majestic white lion
statues, inspired by the Medici lions in Florence, guard a
perfectly symmetrical staircase to the entrance. The palace
was completed in 1822 as a summer residence for Tsar Alexander I’s mother, Maria Fyodorovna. It was designed
by the Italian architect Carlo Rossi, who also designed the
Mikhailovsky Palace of the Russian Museum, masterfully
creating the pearly white curves, columns and dome nestled among the greenery of the park. It is built on the site of
a mansion designed by the architect Giacomo Quarenghi, built from 1785-1790 during the rule of Catherine the
Great, as a gift to the island’s namesake, Ivan Yelagin, a
close friend and ally during her time as Grand Duchess.
Retiring to his own island and Palladian Villa, Yelagin immersed himself in his study of alchemy. In later years, after
complaining that she was no longer able to make day trips
to other palaces, Maria Fyodorovna was given the current
palace by her son, Tsar Alexander I, as a summer retreat.
The architect Carlo Rossi fastidiously redesigned every detail of the old villa, whose richly detailed neoclassical interiors were decorated by Giovanni Battista Scotti, Vasily
Demuth-Malinovsky, and Stepan Pimenov. Floral patterns, scenes from mythology and gilded carvings twirl
across the elaborate ceilings and walls, dragging your eyes
across every inch of intricate detail. Each room is decorated
individually, with impressive exquisite marble, patterned
flooring and painted ceilings which echo the Hermitage’s
grand neoclassical style, albeit on a lighter and more manageable scale. The palace is sometimes known as the ‘palace of doors’, as no two of the inlaid doors are the same. The
first floor of the palace is used as an exhibition space for
the Museum of Decorative and Applied Art and Interiors from the 18th-20th Centuries, established in 1987. After
Fyodorovna’s death in 1828 the palace was often unused,
apart from Tsar Nicholas II leasing it to his prime ministers
until the 1917 revolution. During the siege of Leningrad in
World War II, the palace was badly damaged by shelling,
but was rebuilt in the 1950s and now shows off its glamorous interior to the public.
The palace’s outbuildings, including the Guardhouse pavilion and Flag Pavilion, are scattered amongst the trees
surrounding the palace. Dedicated paths will lead you
around the assorted bright white structures, decorated by
beds of vivid flowers. In full bloom, the colourful flora, clean
white walls and pockets of dazzling water will make for
some unmissable photo opportunities.
In the palace’s Orangery today resides the Glass museum.
The collection displays the work of Leningrad Glass Art Factory, operating from 1940 until 1997, founded by the influential Soviet glass sculptor Vera Mukhina. The factory
produced innovative and colourful glassworks both for domestic use and also as experimental art. Around 8000 glass
works are displayed in three halls in a simple and thoughtfully lit display that twinkles from every angle. A whole corst-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
ridor is devoted to the bold and sophisticated sculptures of
Mukhina herself, with background information about her
life and work. TV screens run short documentaries about
the glass making process, and a couple of installations and
information placards explain the evolution of the fine art of
glass making over the years.
It is well worth circling the island for the views across the
waters of the Neva. Apart from an unfortunately noisy main
road on the bank of the opposite shore on the north side
of the island, you can look out across the placid waters towards other parts of the city, or indeed out to sea. Proceeding to the very western tip of the island takes you to a viewpoint at the Gulf of Finland. Here you will again find two
lions flanking a platform from which to enjoy the view of
the glittering Neva joining the open sea. Although marred
slightly by the industrial edges of the city and the construction of Krestovsky Island’s new stadium, the quaintly dilapidated bobbing fishing boats and a haze of distant land
on a bright day is well worth crossing the island for.
On the site of a monument to architects at the eastern
edge of the park, you can look straight down the Bolshaya Nevka curving inland towards the rest of the city. The
southern shores reveal St. Petersburg’s own marina where
a modest collection of polished yachts twinkle in the sunshine before the green backdrop of Krestovsky’s equally
lush parkland. You will feel pleasantly removed from the
bustle of central Petersburg while enjoying the quiet
natural side of the city.
To escape from the pollution and hubbub of activity in central St. Petersburg and find the city’s greener side, a visit to
Yelagin is a must. Though more lavish grandeur can be found
in the Hermitage, the clear elegance of Yelagin palace and
its effortless harmony with its green surroundings offers a
cultural element to a relaxing day trip to a charming park.
August - September 2014
25
Features
restaurants
on Krestovksy
Il Lago dei Cigni
Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under
the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a
unique wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality.
Close to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving
guests a beautiful view which is particularly attractive as
the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The restaurant itself sits
on the very edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern
Lake), giving visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. With spacious interiors
and set in the peaceful environment of Krestovsky Island
- Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for a quiet getaway
from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1, Severnaya
doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07,
www.illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW
Marseillaise
Why take a trip to the south of France when you can just pop
into Marseillaise for some of the finest French food St. Petersburg has to offer. Whilst the chef may not be French himself
he clearly shares a strong affinity with the European nation,
and his own take on classics such as Onion Soup were nothing short of exquisite. Sip the wine and let yourself drift deep
into the French countryside, leaving absolutely nothing to be
desired. The interior design emanates the same message that
is reflected in the food; simplicity and elegance is everything.
With an average meal between 1,500 to 2,000Rbl and a lovely
location on the river bank, within ten minutes of Krestovsky
Ostrov metro, this restaurant will rank highly on anyone’s list.
QB-1, Nab. Martynova 16, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7)
812 498 77 77, www.marseillaise.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
€€€. PTASW
Na Rechke
With lovely views and outdoor dining on the Krestovka
River bank Na Rechke creates a relaxed atmosphere. Soft
background music, and friendly staff make for a lovely
dining experience. The interior design with sloping, billowing ceilings, similar to awnings, gives the entire establishment the feel of al fresco dining and the white décor
enhances the sensation of expansiveness. Tables are large
and placed a good distance from each other. The menu is
26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
largely European with a tendency towards the Mediterranean and Italian. Being close to the central city, Na Rechke
is simultaneously convenient and remote. This makes it an
ideal location for a business meeting or a romantic dinner at the end of the day.QB-1, Ul. Olgina 8, MChernaya
rechka, tel. (+7) 812 230 03 47, www.narechke.com.
Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and
fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian
to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure
to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph
into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so
make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.
Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
€ - 0 - 400Rbl
€€ 400 - 800Rbl
€€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl
€€€€ 1,200Rbl plus
Russian and Ukrainian
Yelagin
A glamorous clientele is to be found at this chic, wooden
panelled restaurant on the water, with a view across the St.
Petersburg Riviera. Become part of a stylish crowd reclining on sofas downstairs or in the fresh air out on deck, and
you might think you’re floating in the harbour of St. Tropez. The menu boasts an Italian, Russian and Japanese selection of meticulously cooked dishes presented by suave
waiting staff, and an on board bar offers a large collection
of mostly Italian wines as well as various cocktails. For not
too extortionate fine dining in a beautiful setting, this will
be one of your best bets in St. Petersburg.QB-1, Nab. Martynova, opposite the house №40, MKrestovsky ostrov,
tel. (+7) 812 947 15 44, www.elaginrest.ru. Open 12:00
- 24:00. €€€. PASW
Zimaleto
The high ceiling and wide open space populated with stylish comfortable sofas will immediately put you at ease in
this bar. On Yuzhnaya doroga, along the south side of Krestovsky Island, the bar has outside seating on decking on
all sides, and looks out onto the collection of impressive
yachts on the Malaya Nevka. Inside, a high wall of shelving behind the bar displays bottles of surely any drink that
might take your fancy, and indeed the carefully concocted
cocktails will help you to feel like the whole place is a luxurious beach hut. A drum kit on a modest stage promises
regular live music, big screens can be viewed in comfort
from all angles, and a staircase promises a VIP area.QB1, Yuzhnaya doroga 8, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7)
812 942 74 73, www.zimaleto.su. Open 12:00 until last
guest. €€€. PAESW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Cococo
Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the previous frontman of the
ska-punk band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short
walk from the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which is made using local farm products, as well as
homemade fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as
pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well
presented, and wholesome, including dishes such acorns
tiramisu and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has
low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere.
The staff are helpful, offering alternatives if something isn’t
available, and you can request an English version of the
menu.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 579 00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PASW
Feodor Dostoevsky
F.M. Dostoevsky is an elegant restaurant focusing on
home style Russian cuisine. The atmosphere is chic and
comfortable at the same time. Candles on the tables, soft
lighting and crisp tablecloths give this place a warm and
friendly glow. F.M. Dostoevsky serves Russian classics,
so don’t miss their famous Beef Stroganoff and try one
of the beautifully presented deserts. There is live music
on Fridays and Saturdays.QE-3, Golden Garden Hotel,
Vladimirsky pr. 9, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 22
44, www.goldengarden.ru. Open 12:30 - 23:00. €€€€.
PTAUEGSW
Idiot
With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy
antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in
English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian
dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests are given
a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the cordial english speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu;
then, during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30), you get two draught
beers or glasses of house wine for the price of one, plus the
complimentary vodka. Quite the deal!QC-3, Nab. reky
Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51 73, www.
idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. PTASW
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August - September 2014
27
Where to eat
Koleso
Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and
get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron candelabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp
creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu
is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of
wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad
choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as
tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu.QD-3,
Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315
21 25. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Mari Vanna
With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will
be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on
traditional Russian home food such as borshch, pelmeni
and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an
old and cosy Russian flat. The service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids,
make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience.QC-1,
Ul. Lenina 18, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230
53 59, www.marivanna.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€.
PTAVGSW
NEP
NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage
to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and
warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order
your meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their
charming, personality packed star singer. They offer an array
of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented
and served. If you’re sitting close to the performers, it is likely
you’ll find yourself part of the night’s entertainment.QD-3,
Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571
75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Wed Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAESW
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
Olivie
Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which various types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian
and Caucasian dishes with the chef’s personal interpretations.
Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with
green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit
for dessert - it’s just a small part of what you the chef offers.
Olivie is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square,
directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for
every mood, every occasion and every company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84
72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW
Prospekt
Prospekt is located just around the corner from St. Isaac’s Cathedral. Its almost invisible to the passerby but that doesn’t
mean it should be missed! There’s an excellent selection of
traditional Russian dishes with a few modern additions. Add
to that a wonderful historical decor and a menu written in old
Russian to go along with said decor. The fish was some of the
best in the city, extremely fresh and full of flavor straight from
the grill. Traditional Russian specials like borsch and potato
pancakes (draniki) are as good as any Russian babushka can
whip up. If you want a taste of some great Russian food with
a quaint historical atmosphere, you can’t go wrong in this
little restoranchik as the Russians say.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya
ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 952 236 01 24, www.
prospekt-restaurant.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Open 18:00 00:30. Closed Fri, Sat. €€. PTASW
Rasputin
With its many black and white photographs and old furniture against dated wallpaper, you might be forgiven for
thinking this basement café resembles a babushka’s living
room if it wasn’t for the - actually bubbling - collection of
test tubes on one window ledge, presumably pointing to
Grigory Rasputin’s somewhat shady activities as a healer in
the late 19th century. The café’s strong points are certainly
its location, only round the corner from the Hermitage on
the bank of the Moika canal, and the negligible impact on
your wallet, but its traditional Russian menu is really not
much more than a quick bite to eat.QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky
37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 571 75 91, www.
rasputin-cafe.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PTASW
Asian and Indian
Cardamon
This yet to be fully discovered Indian restaurant is located
on the spit of Vasilevsky Island, right in the historic centre of
St. Petersburg. The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapestries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its
delicious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident in
St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he got everything right, although we were a bit amused by the selection
of Russian dishes on the menu as well; we haven’t yet given
those a try, but as for Indian food, Cardamon is a welcome
addition to the city.QC-2, 1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW
Chopsticks
Chopsticks is fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior
has been decorated in the traditional Chinese style with
the walls decorated with traditional paintings. Quiet background music adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The
master chef produces not only his favourite Szechwan and
Cantonese dishes but also popular dishes from India and
Thailand. The central location makes this one of the most
convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in St. Petersburg.
Be prepared to take your time over the meal and expect
to use chopsticks!QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www.facebook.com/
chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTSW
Curry House
Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta
took the courage to open his own Curry House in the
Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry
House is a perfect addition to the cities food scene serving food from all compass points off India. The menu is
extensive and we really enjoyed the big variety we ordered: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi
Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and
off course butter naan. Like any Indian restaurant Curry
House offers a wide choice of vegetarian dishes.QC-3,
Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47,
www.curryhousespb.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.
PTASW
8, Admiralteysky Pr.,
+7 (812) 945 84 72
Meat Line
Meat Line is the first and only Teppanyaki restaurant in St.
Petersburg. It’s so different from anything else on offer in
town, it’s worth the challenge to find deep within the shopping complex. Not speaking English or Russian, the friendly
chefs communicate with diners using their mobiles, serving up flavorsome authentic dishes with impressive culinary
style to diners rather than thrown at you, unlike other typical
Teppanyaki restaurants around the world. With tables that
can sit up to eight people, this is a great place to fuel up
before heading out for a night on the town.QE-4, Ligov
Shopping Center, Ligovsky pr. 153, MObvodny kanal,
tel. (+7) 812 602 04 96, www.meatline2014.ru. Open
11:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW
Shalyapin
Located in the middle of the historic Smolny district, a pleasant stroll from the Tauride Garden, Shalyapin is your classic
19th century restaurant. Decorated in crèmes and brown
with soft lighting and lampshades depicting 19th century
street scenes this restaurant is a pleasant retreat from the
bustle of modern life. The restaurant serves genuine Russian
food, which is both tasty and filling. The staff are attentive
and provide excellent advice on the best combinations of
food and drink. The final result was well worth the wait.
This is a lovely place to visit if you want to spend an afternoon or evening in quiet conversation.QF-2, Tverskaya ul.
12/15, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 32 10, www.
shalyapinspb.ru. €€€. PTAESW
King Pong
The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make
for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars
around town. The menu itself is mainly Thai-style dishes
with scattered bits of Chinese, Indian and Japanese offerings. In general, we recommend filling up on an assortment of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or
one of their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly prepared with fresh ingredients and a little ‘European’ in spice levels, but you can always ask for some chili
sauce to add yourself.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. PTAEGSW
Mops
The first Thai restaurant in St. Petersburg and the interior is
truly exquisite. Mops cultivates the appearance of elegant
chaos. It has a terrace and three rooms to meet varying
tastes, offering you a cosy spot to smoke a hookah or to
sing your heart away in the karaoke hall. The unusual interior design emphasises contrasts and claims to be aimed at
those with an ‘artistic personality’. The restaurant’s Thai chef
who produces authentic, unadulterated meals with a menu
focusing on dumplings, salads, spring rolls and soups as entrees and noodles and rice, wok and curry for mains.QE-3,
Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 961
92 21, www.mopscafe.ru. Open 14:00 - 01:00, Wed, Thu
14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. €€€. PASW
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August - September 2014
29
Where to eat
Where to eat
Tandoor
Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is
about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get.
For 19 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic
Indian fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their efforts too. They have all the usual favourites
so you can try a couple and share amongst your buddies,
whilst mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the
thick naan bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for
a large group, much like when you see the city’s Indian
community trooping in for their banquets.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312
38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€.
PTALEGSW
Tandoori Nights
There are only a few Indian restaurants in the whole city
and this one offers more than just curry - for Indian style
fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The menu is original
and mouth-watering, especially the clay-oven Tandoorispecialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads
are also highly recommended - especially the peshwari
naan. There’s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount
on the bill.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW
Beer Restaurants
Bierstube
Choose from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard
balcony or tuck yourselves in inside the wood and stucco
countryside house themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up on beer snacks like calmari
and fried cheese sticks before the main events, Bavarian
and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavyweights, arrive.
The fact that it is a good walk down the canal from the
metro station means you have the chance to walk of all
the calories after.QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova
166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya Pl.,
tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 01:00. €€. PTAULSW
Birreria
Located on the second floor of the Vladimirsky Passage shopping complex, Birreria offers an excellent view onto Our Lady
of Vladimir Cathedral. This is a good place to stop of with
friends to watch sport on a Friday evening, drink a few beers
(with brands from all over Europe, this should keep you busy
all evening) and unwind after a week of hard labour. The
menu offers your classic Italian favourites and is worth every
rouble. Service is good an unobtrusive and the beer is enough
to put anyone into a good mood, so you are bound to have
a good time regardless of your company!QE-3, Vladimirsky
pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 943 60 04, www.
birreria.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW
30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Bruxelles
If you like delicious, good European food and drink, Bruxelles
should be on the top of your list. The restaurant does not
provide you with the fine dinning experience but the food is
delicious, reasonably priced and has fast, efficient service. The
music is loud, and although some might find this off-putting,
there is plenty of space for patrons and it is still comfortable to
talk in small groups. The bar has a solid wine list and offers a
wide variety of beers including trappist and craft beers - just
the thing to wash down a fantastic meal!QE-2, Ul. Vosstaniya 20, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 944 03 36, www.italygroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PASW
Craft Bier Cafe
Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can be
found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Craft’s
special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific pride in
having four different kinds of lager available that he specially
made based on his own favourites from Russia, Belgium, the
Netherlands, Germany and other countries he has visited
in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The
bar itself is located a short walk from the Summer Garden
and well worth a visit. The atmosphere is laid-back and it
is easy to mingle with locals and expats alike. Craft serves
good pub-food, but it’s beer that rules.QE-2, Gagarinskaya
ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www.
craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW
Next to Mariinsky theatre
Dickens
This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all
around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a
lot of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too
(the chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge
portions. Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great
hangover cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an
authentic pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll find in Russia and also features a fine
dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky
Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63,
www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 03:00. PASW
Manneken Pis
Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in
Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol
(Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your
standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer
menu. Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are
looking for something a little different Manneken Pis will
turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a
wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer
on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to
share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer,
while the food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark
Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW
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Next to
Mariinsky theatre
August - September 2014
31
Where to eat
Pivnaya Karta
This is a unique place in St. Petersburg, with over 400 different kinds of craft and imported beers. You’ll find yourself standing behind the bar, in a New York style interior,
helped by professionals to find that specific kind of beer
you like, or will learn to love. This place is all about beer, it
is non-smoking, and only minimal finger food is available.
This place is about what really matters - beer.QE-2, Ul.
Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 93
78, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAS
The Corner Pub
An English pub on the Petrograd Side, founded from the
people who brought you Dickens. The bar carries on the
same traditions as Dickens and you might even know
Jimmy the barman. The menu remains unchanged but the
line of beer has been improved dramatically - more than 30
sorts of beer, including the ever popular craft beers. Every
Wednesday they have live rockabilly music.QC-1, PS, Maly
pr. 55A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63. Open
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAESW
Trappist
Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in good
beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an order of
Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew fantastic
beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland. With an
entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place.
The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to Sunday, you
can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the White
Sea.QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW
Caucasian
Baklazhan
The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism
seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to the
decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall of sorts
selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative dishes. Stick
with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas and khachapuri.QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. +7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net.
Open 10:00 until last guest. €. PTALVESW
32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
Khochu Kharcho
“Khochu Kharcho!” means “I want Kharcho”! - kharcho being
a traditional Georgian stew containing mutton/lamb, vegetables, rice and a highly spiced bouillon. Here they serve three
different types of the dish and it is definitely worth trying as
a warm and filling main course. This is not just a Georgian
restaurant, it`s a Megrelian restaurant and there is a big difference. Megrelia is a historic province in the western part of
Georgia where walnuts feature prominently in the cooking
and they like their food spicy. Other must-try-dishes include
the rich and cheesy Megrelian khachapuri or the fragrant
chakhokhbili (spicy chicken stew).QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 39/41,
MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 310 32 36, www.hochuharcho.
com. Open 24hrs. €€. PTALVESW
Mamalyga
Two steps from Nevsky one can find all kinds of food from
the region: Georgian, Imeretian, Armenian, Adzharian, Megrelian, and the cuisines of Swaneti and Guria, thus one
can try the various cuisines of the Caucasus here in peace
without any of the local antagonisms. The menu features a
mix of well-spiced (the food is not watered down for local
consumption) shashlyks, salads, khachapuris, and pretty
much anything else you could want from the South Caucasus.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 571 82 87, www.mamaliga-mamaliga.com. Open
12:00 until last guest. €€. PTALVSW
Pryanosti i radosti
Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on
the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant
from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say
too popular, the tables are spaced close to each other and
it quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but
somehow it works. You feel like you in are in a busy, fun
and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European
delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional
Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Moskovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadskaya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www.
ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAVSW
Grey’s coffeebar & bistro
While it may offer a cheap café menu, Grey’s Bistro delivers
it with style with its chic interior and tasty meals. The light
menu offers a few salads, snacks and grilled items, all priced
low enough, allowing you to order a variety of options to
share. The café has also earned a reputation for its delicious
cakes and coffee.QF-3, Konnaya ul. 5/3, MPl. Vosstaniya,
tel. (+7) 812 925 42 50, www.greys-bistro.ru. Open 09:30
- 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. €. PSW
Gypsy tapas bar
Decorated with more Middle Eastern flavor than Spanish,
the welcome is just as exotic and warm as you enter Gypsy
Tapas Bar. Enjoy fruity cocktails such as “I Want a Summer
Gypsy!” and “Quiet Sangria”, while sampling freshly-made
tapas from a small yet interesting menu. As well as tapas,
the menu also offers a limited selection of mains and
soups.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 14/1, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 993 77 57, www.gypsybar.ru. Open 12:00 until
last guest. €€. PAESW
Stopka - Small vodka glass
Kroo Cafe
It’s always nice to see new places appear in interesting
central neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Park Kroo
Cafe serves breakfasts from 8:30 and keeps on going into
the night. The well balanced menu is created by their French
chef who is keen on buying his own products at the market,
which only ads to the feeling that what you get is fresh. QF3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 273
11 11, www.kroocafe.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:30 - 01:00. PTASW
Jean-Jacques
Traditional French café style food in a gorgeous red and
mirror clad interior. Perfect for coffee or after-work drinks,
this is a popular little place which can be relied upon for a
short, sharp French fix. The flavorsome food is sure to satisfy, and the prices are more than fair.QE-3, Ul. Marata 10,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 49 03, www.jan-jak.
com. Open 24hrs. €€. PTAESW
Let it bar
A little off the beaten track Let it Bar is subterranean bar with
a slightly poky atmosphere. The bar staff are pleasant and
friendly, although the service is a little tardy. The interior
consists of bare brick arched columns which are both attractive and impressive, with plastered white walls. A walkin fridge in one wall gives the staff access to a large array
of food and acts as the one element colour in the bar. Let
it Bar offers a convenient, quiet place to have a drink with
friends, but it has little to make it stand out of the crowd.
QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 9, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
570 32 46, www.vk.com/letitbar. Open 13:00 - 01:00, Fri
13:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. €. PSW
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August - September 2014
European
Erarta Café
Located on the ground floor of the Erarta Museum of
Contemporary Art this restaurant offers a good selection
of traditional Russian culinary delights including fish soup,
pancakes with salmon caviar or spinach and homemade
pickles which is sure to bring out the true Russian in you,
especially with a shot or two of vodka. The restaurant
also offers a range of more contemporary meals, including burgers made from Ladoga pie, baked potatoes with
fennel, smoked salmon and cottage cheese. The chef has
specialised in Mediterranean cuisine and has an offering
of scallops and prawns. For meat lovers there is an meat
menu.QВ-3, Erarta, 29-ya liniya 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 334 68 96, www.erarta.com. Open 11:00
- 22:00, Tue 12:00 - 17:00. €. PTASW
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33
Where to eat
Where to eat
Mon Petit Café
While the décor is similar to a lot of other modern cafés
in town, its understated colors, comfortable chairs and
impressionist artworks on the wall help give off a mildly
Parisian vibe. However, unlike other cafés, the menu is
refreshingly brief with highlights including excellent patés as starters, full-bodied red wine and delicious crème
brûlée for dessert. The basic menu also helps keep things
uncomplicated in the kitchen, allowing the cooks to just
focus on quality ingredients and in the end deliver tasty
and satisfying meals, which are also value for money.QF3, 2-ya Sovetskaya ul. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
372 65 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €. PASW
perhaps
Moskva
The rooftop location on the 6th floor of the upscale Nevsky
Centre, draws in a dressier crowd of wealthier diners looking to soak up the fancy view. The decor is done out in
various shades of cream and the furniture is the muted and
comfy yet expensive looking stuff. Potted plants brighten
the place up, as does fresh fruit at the open central cooking
stations and while the menu looks over ambitious, hitting
all corners of the globe.QE-3, Nevsky Centre Shopping
Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 937
64 97, www.moskvavpitere.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€.
PTALVSW
Pepper Moon
From the street, the restaurant looks very small, but in reality its three rooms can accommodate more than 100 people.
The designers have realized an interesting and complex idea
with transforming walls: if you want to sit alone and have no
one bother you, you can ask the waiter to fully insulate your
table. The menu offers European dishes, as well as Italian cuisine which is so popular nowadays. QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina
9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 969 85 98, www.gratogroup.ru/peppermoon. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW
Piano Wine and Kitchen
In a prime location along the Fontanka, the comfortable setting
and friendly staff at Piano Wine and Kitchen makes it a great
meeting place for that first drink of the night. As the name suggests, the bar offers an extensive wine menu with bottles from
around the world, while the modest food menu serves more
to complement the wines available.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky
38, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 925 10 38. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAESW
34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Sunduk
Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed
into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with
memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The
bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live
music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant
is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in
order. This quaint restaurant offers a great atmosphere and
stands out as being something different on the St. Petersburg
scene. QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW
Via dell’ Oliva
Situated in the very heart of St. Petersburg, Via dell’ Oliva is
a Mediterranean restaurant but it’s mostly just Italian cuisine
here. This isn’t bad at all, just don’t except different specialties from around the Mediterranean. The restaurant’s dining
areas are ornately decorated as multiple different Mediterranean settings and the restaurant also has room for even the
largest of groups. There is also a decent selection of wine, a
relaxing atmosphere, especially with live music on the weekend evenings, as well as a friendly staff.QC-2, Bol. Morskaya
ul. 31, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 65 63, www.
viadelloliva.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW
Volna
Wave promotes itself as a ‘gastronomic destination’
and prides itself on its fresh produce and adventurous
daily specials and creative evenings. The unusual interior
structure offers two types of seating; a bright and sunny
veranda area or a more discreet lounging den on the mezzanine. The cocktail and wine list have also been carefully
selected to please the restaurant’s upper-class clientele,
who also roll up here in the BMWs for late night drinks. Located directly behind Peter the Great’s House, it’s a good
stop off between the Aurora ship and the Peter and Paul
Fortress.QD-1, Petrovskaya nab. 4, MGorkovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 322 53 83, www.volna.su. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALVESW
Fine dining
Soup Wine
Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek and
agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads but also a
selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge salads
which come in bowls heaving with green leaves. Given the
size and how easy it is to sit and linger listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised to book ahead.QD-3,
Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90,
www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAGSW
Astoria Café
Breathe history while dining at the newly opened, freshly
decorated Astoria Café. The hotel in which this restaurant is
located has seen over a century of history. This history can
be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and
cuisine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian
dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes,
especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is named after the
famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light
that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the
windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac’s Cathedral.QD-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria.
com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALW
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True Indian cooking
and hospitality
since 1994
20
years
10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886
www.tandoor-spb.ru
August - September 2014
35
Where to eat
Where to eat
L’Europe
Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in
the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europe’s crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own,
the interiors are stunning, especially the original art deco
stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are
made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Of the
luxurious Russian dishes on offer the ‘egg in an egg’ (a kind
of posh scrambled quails egg with black sturgeon caviar on
top) is an expensive one of a kind treat and the wild mushroom dishes likewise will be a pleasant surprise for the taste
buds. Sunday brunch is also magnifique!QD-3, Belmond
Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 30, www.grandhoteleurope.com.
Open 07:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTALEW
Caviar Bar and Restaurant
Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the
first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but
the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles.
The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly
proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia.
Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the
menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the
Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef
Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the
heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier. Business
lunch is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond
Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW
Grand Cru
Grand Cru brings molecular cuisine and top vintage wines
to the banks of the Fontanka canal. The sleek look of the
restaurant is as sophisticated and minimalist as you can
imagine and the display of wines on sale (and the equally attractive staff selling them) take centre stage. The menu is an
exciting adventure for the taste buds with all kinds of exotic
flavours and unusual spices being combined together with
top notch fish and meat, to give the diner something memorable and out of the ordinary. QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky
52, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 363 25 11, www.grandcru.
ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. PASW
36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
miX in St. Petersburg
The first restaurant in Russia from multi-Michelin starred
chef Alain Ducasse. By combining haute cuisine with contemporary design, miX fits perfectly into the surrounds
of what is now one of Russia’s hippest hotels. Service is
perfect and the atmosphere is every inch as glamorous
and lively as you may hope. The menu is filled with local
and European dishes, all given the finest French touches
by the highly presentable chefs over in the open kitchen.
After examining the impressively long wine list be sure
to sample one of their highly creative cocktails.QD-3, W
Hotel, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 610 61 66, www.wstpetersburg.com. Open 07:00 24:00. €€€€. PTAEGKW
International
Alfavit
With a dining area reminiscent of an Ikea showroom,
Alfavit’s spacious and basic design comes without the
hipster attitude found in many of the city’s new small
cafes. With a focus on healthy meals, the limited menu
offers no starters. Instead it has a few salads, vegetable
sides and some light mains - great for those watching
their budget and waistline.QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul.
41, MSennaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 70 82. Open 11:00 23:00. €. PASW
Biblioteka
This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys in
the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground floor
is a café-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch pies,
homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A restaurant
with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the first floor,
along with a flower shop, a china shop, book shop and
candle shop. The ViVi children’s club is also located here.
The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere and comprises
a wine and tapas-bar. It is used for literary events, meetings with writers and book presentations. A bookshop is
also located here.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky.
Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAESW
Arka
The soft lighting, exposed brick wall and sky-lights create a chic, yet cozy ambience where you can sit and forget about life for a while. A 13-meter bar and an impressive selection of unusual cocktails make it an ideal place
to meet up with friends or business partners for afterwork, or pre-going out drinks. The menu includes a grill
section with sets that are meant to be shared, as well as
other traditional dishes prepared in an untraditional way,
like the cappuccino mushroom cream soup. And their
kitchen is open until 06:00 in the morning! The prices are
reasonable compared to similar high-class bars and you
are guaranteed to leave with a good impression.QD-2,
Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 27, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
240 24 96, www.arka.spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 06:00. €€.
PTAESW
Buddha-Bar
There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand
in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented
by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant
brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand
to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian
cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music
soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and
a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the
cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine.QF-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7)
812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW
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August - September 2014
Palkin
Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back
to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is
as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which
all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a
meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting
with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar
and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes
from a bygone era. They also have a seasonally changing
five-course special menu with specially selected wines,
themed around a different wine-growing area of the
world. Booking is recommended.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW
Wine Cellar 1853
Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. This cellar
accommodates up to 16 people but you are never alone since
you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of wine and 50
bottles of champagne. On the menu you can choose among
others between four different fondues. Next to the classical
cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue and a chocolate
fondue, you can also go for the champagne and perigord
truffle and cheese fondue. If you are considering a romantic
candle lit dinner for two, hidden away from the world outside,
then this is a good bet.QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Moiky
22, MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski.com.
Open Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. €€€€. PAUW
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37
Where to eat
Five Points Gastrobar
Upon entering Five Points, the design makes it clear that the
focus is definitely on the booze, with wine crates and empty
wine bottles decorating the interior as well as an aquarium
of corks greeting guests just inside the entrance. Even the
restaurant’s Wi-Fi password is alcohol-based, although focusing on rum rather than wine. Printed on rough, brown
paper placemats, the menu offers a succinct overview of
popular European dishes with something for everyone from soups and salads to heartier fare - except perhaps sushi
lovers. The dishes are average at best, with the small serving
sizes making them more as a snack food to be accompanied
with the extensive alcohol menu.QE-3, Ul. Lomonosova
18, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 26. Open 10:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sun 11:00 - 05:00. €€. PASW
Gosti
Dining in this continental restaurant is a bit like going to
your provincial granny’s cottage. If your granny has as
much taste as she does knick-knacks. Each of the rooms
has plenty of florals, books and decorative odds and ends
on the wall, but the effect is homey rather than cluttered.
Staff are delightfully friendly and the menu boasts hearty,
flavoursome risottos, pastas and dishes fresh off the grill
or from the oven. Portion sizes allude again to the generousity of granny and can easily be divided into two meals.
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 13, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 312 58 20, www.gdegosti.ru. Open 08:00 until
last guest. €€. PTAGSW
Where to eat
Koryushka
Koryushka is a Georgian restaurant on Zayachy Island located in the oldest part of the city - the Peter and Paul
Fortress, a main tourist hotspot. The location affords great
views of landmarks across the river, including the Winter
Palace, and the restaurant makes the most of this, with lots
of windows, and terraces, giving a spacious feel. The staff
are helpful, and although the menu features fish dishes,
there is also shashlik and salads on offer, as well as a good
range of drinks. It is a nice restaurant to sit and enjoy the
view after visiting this historic area of the city.QD-2, Peter
and Paul Fortress 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 917 90
10, www.ginzaproject.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest.
€€. PTAESW
Mansarda
Turn into the building signposted with Gazprom’s headquarters and head for the lift in the left side of the blindingly
sleek Quartro Corti business centre. You will be greeted six
floors up with a candid view of the nearby golden dome
of St. Isaac’s Cathedral. The interior is understated and the
glass walls ensure that the view is the main focus. Classic European tastes dominate with Asian influences also
given some attention and the fresh fish based dishes are
particularly recommended. In warm weather the rooftop
terrace is an excellent venue for sunset cocktails or Sunday
brunch.QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 946 43 03, www.ginza-mansarda.ru. Open
12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PTALSW
Meat Head
Meat Head is set in an enjoyable wine-cellar-like setting
with well spaced-out tables enabling intimate conversations. With meat being the main player we ordered the
strip loin steak and it was perfect. The menu is quite diverse
and we tried scallops, salads and a creamy beet soup with
goat cheese, fresh-baked breads as well as tea cocktails
with liquor. The prices are similar to a top Manhattan steak
house.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 923 00 44, www.meat-head.ru. Open 09:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALESW
Moskva City
Moskva City offers an unusual and fantastic view of St. Petersburg, with the broad Neva River glimmering in the sun. The
good thing is, the food is not forgotten and is all tasty, served
by friendly waiters and attractively presented. Prices are reasonable too. The terrace offers excellent space for lounging
and partying. When the weather does not allow you to sit
outside, they have lots of space in their well designed restaurant the next storey down.QD-1, Petrogradskaya nab. 18A,
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 59 59, www.moskvacity.
spb.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAESW
ObedBufet
The idea of ObedBufet is simple: multiple tables offer multiple types of food for reasonable prices. But with so much
on offer, it’s difficult to know where to even begin. Using
self-service, diners can enjoy various types of Russian-style
salads, pancakes and soups, as well as shaverma, hamburgers, pizza, pasta and even sushi…and this is before
you reach the dessert station. Each plate is then weighed
at the cashier at the end of the food hall.QE-3, Nevsky
Centre Shopping Centre, Nevsky pr. 114, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 961 63 11, www.ginza.ru. Open 10:00
- 23:00. €. PTAVSW
Paradise cafe&bar
The menu is pure pan-Asian: rolls, miso soups, wok dishes
and deep fried appetisers and everything we tried was
prepared in a timely manner, with a good selection of
accompanying sauces. It is not a restaurant as much as
an oversized chill out lounge, where the food is merely a
background item, something one needs to sustain themselves while sitting for hours and people watching in the
cavernous surroundings.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2D,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59, www.paradisecafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed
Sun. €€€. PAESW
Penguin
This restaurant-bar has an appealing atmosphere with
dimmed lights and RnB music playing in the background.
If are looking for a quiet place to have a romantic beer and
a cocktail then this might be the place for you. However,
the prices do not match the quality and the food is to be
avoided.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 26/28, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 926 55 27. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW
38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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The only places
where Belgian drinks
and real Flemish dishes
are served perfectly
Cafe Trappist
36 Radischeva Street
+7 (812) 275-99-35
Cafe Manneken Pis
198 Moskovsky Prospect
+7 (812) 371-90-31
Unique bar and boutique
400 different bottles
Pivnaya Karta
55 Vosstaniya Street
+7 (812) 273-93-78
www.beercard.ru
Cult Californian beer
Boutique bar Pivnaya Karta is now offering over 400 different types of beer. The pub is run by two beer connoisseurs whose passion for beer has taken them around
Europe and even across the Atlantic in search of the
tastiest brews. The pride of their pick so far comes from
Anderson Valley in sunny California, which is America’s
first trappist beer and brings which is so appropriate to
St. Petersburg’s summer lifestyle. If you want to indulge
in European varieties then Pivnaya Karta has a great
range of trappist beers, reflecting a beer tradition that
goes back to 1095 and the time of the First Crusade.
While the beer here may smell of ancient antiquity, you
can enjoy tradition with modern comfort, the interior is
modernistic and you could be forgiven for thinking that
you have stepped into a bar in central Manhattan. The
bar itself is equipped with the latest technical equipment to ensure that the beer tastes its best. While to
guide you on that daunting challenge of finding the
right beer with the right taste and the right mood the
bar has a team of specialist who will act as your guides
and tutors in this exacting art. In addition to their 400
different varieties the bar also offers weekly novelties
with ‘visiting ales’. Those who prefer their beer to be
‘poured’ and not bottled have a choice of 14 beers to
choose from. Cider lovers have similarly been catered
for with 30 ciders to choose from.
August - September 2014
39
Where to eat
Russian summer menu
The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty
warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get
through the bitterly cold winter months, but come
summer some special warm weather dishes also make
their way on to the Russian menu.
Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include
kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European
drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made
from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very
distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes,
you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer
is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very
cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter
berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can
be made from practically any berry that you may find.
Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and
many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may
often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made
from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July.
Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer
as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The
ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers
and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different
meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then
the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or
sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is
as it sounds, quite an acquired taste…
The main course. Salads are universally popular year
round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest
staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real
powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish
kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then
grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is
the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied
with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy
ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen
(green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a
piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As
it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants
usually serve up the best shashliks.
40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
Polyanka
This comfortable little café is located in the historic centre of the city. The café offers an international of some of
the best known and best tasting dishes from around the
world, with its own original interpretation. The wine list
deliberately includes lesser known but nonetheless interesting wines from smaller wineries. Polyanka also does
breakfast and lunch. Keep your eyes out for the café’s mascot Lida the stuffed duck who has a history all of her own.
QE-3, Kolokolnaya ul. 10, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 777 92 10. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PASW
Ribai
A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a
delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare
and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is
a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene:
given the nature of the cuisine it offers tremendous beef
selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt
for something other than steak there’s another pleasant
surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an
American eatery the portions are mammoth and their
delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below
what’s expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai
does. Don’t miss Ribai Borsch, a house specialty that successfully blends the cornerstone soup of Russian cuisine
with Western flavors.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky
pr., tel. +7 (812) 912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest. €€. PTAVESW
Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen
Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels,
Romeo’s offers some of the highest quality and reasonably
priced Italian food in the city. The décor and atmosphere
are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy
evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or
have a family celebration (a children’s menu is available).
Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC-3,
Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812
572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open 09:00
- 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Terrassa
Terrassa features an open kitchen, wonderful views from the
sixth floor that almost make you feel like you’re in the sky, and
stylish interiors. The menu is gargantuan, almost shocking:
each turn of the page is like discovering a new restaurant.
A short list of the cuisines on offer include Georgian, Russian, Thai, pan-Asian, sushi, pastas, pizzas, salads, seafood,
and soups: you name it and they seemingly seem to have it
on the menu. The wine list is extensive and features an elite
wine section with bottles priced up to 430,000Rbl. QD-3,
Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 937 68 37,
www.terrassa.ru. Open 11:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun
12:00 until last guest. €€€. PAULVESW
The Living Room
Operating as a quaint burger bar, The Living Room offers
a decent American-style menu while allowing you to relax in a wooden interior complete with a modest bar and
widescreen television. To help wash down the satisfying
large burgers, such as “London Eye” and “Pulp Fiction”, is a
choice of seven draught beers and a humble selection of
spirits.QС-2, Bolshaya Zelenina ul. 20, MChkalovskaya,
tel. (+7) 965 021 31 71. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PNW
Volga-Volga
Volga Volga can be found on a functioning riverboat. Between
May and October the ship cruises up and down the Neva
providing breathtaking views and a literally dynamic atmosphere. The menu mainly relies on seafood and rightfully so:
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the place offers an unprecedentedly authentic Tom Yum and
most of other fish offerings are refreshing and sophisticated
enough to please a true connoisseur. Catch the Volga Volga
boat on a summer weekend night to admire the views of the
drawn bridges.QD-1, Petrovskaya nab. 8, MGorkovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 900 83 38, www.ginza-volga.ru. Open 12:00
until last guest. €€€. PTAEGSW
Zig Zag
Unlike most places for fussy customers, who are used to
grabbing meals somewhere in the very centre, this restaurant is located a bit further from Nevsky. Entering the
space feels like you’ve travelled in time machine back to
the 1960’s. Zig Zag restaurant offers international meals
with American-Nouveau and Scandinavian accents.QD-3,
Gorokhovaya ul. 59/92, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 314
34 00, www.zigzag.spb.ru/english/index.php. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW
Music&Bar MOPS
VIP-Karaoke Club
Thai cuisine restaurant
address: Saint-Petersburg,
Rubinshteina str.12
tel.: +7 (911)926-11-90,
+7 (921)961-92-21
Exclusively designed
and deeply therapeutic:
Massages Facials Spa Rituals
Best Traditions of Thai SPA
and Massage in St.Petersburg
address: Saint-Petersburg,
Rubinshteina str.12
tel.: +7 (911)928-44-50
www.mopsspa.ru
Sky Bar
Sky Bar claims to offer the highest panoramic views in St.
Petersburg. It is located 69 metres above sea level on the
18th storey of the AZIMUT Hotel and provides guests with
breathtaking views of the historic city - being significantly
higher than most other buildings in the area. The minimalistic style of the bar is accentuated by the sharp contrast
of the interior design with dark walls contrasting against
marble of the bar. The lighting is provided with muted
lights and tall panoramic windows. The bar’s menu includes items from Scandinavian, Asian and Russian cuisine.
QC-4, AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg, Lermontovsky
pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 46, www.
azimuthotels.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 02:00. €€. PTAGW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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August - September 2014
41
Where to eat
Italian
Gusto
A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and
gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian food
and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem to just
sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle,
followed by a selection of dishes from the chef without a
word being spoken to the waiters. The menu looks basic but
all the dishes are complex mouth-watering masterpieces
which benefit from a light hand and subtle tastes. Be sure to
order the bread basket, a selection of freshly baked, in-house
rolls and loaves that are perfect for mopping up every last
drop of sauce.QF-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya,
tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www.gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTALESW
Italy
The chef spent many years in Italy, learning the secrets of Italian cooking. The pasta is prepared fresh for each individual
diner as you can observe with your very own eyes, courtesy
of the open kitchen. In addition to traditional Italian dishes
of pizza and pasta, they have surprisingly well done stir-fries
or grilled fish and meat. Downstairs is the Dolci Italy bakery
where, if you’ve made the mistake of coming on an empty
stomach or simply want to top off a meal you can enjoy classic Italian desserts with a cup of hot coffee or tea.QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 58, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 63 33,
www.italy-cafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW
42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Where to eat
Jamie’s Italian
There are restaurants which carry this name in more than
30 cities around the world. Admirers of the legendary chef
Jamie Oliver should remain satisfied: the menu offers traditional Italian dishes using recipes made by Jamie and his
mentor Gennaro Сontaldo. The pasta is made from Italian
flour and farm eggs, and is prepared right before your eyes,
and the rustic bread is made according to original recipes,
and is baked in special ovens. Lovers of the Italian festive
atmosphere are exactly the type of people this place has
in mind - it is quite noisy, with a lot of visitors and waiters,
and people are hard at work in the open kitchen.QD-2,
Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25
70, www.jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Makaronniki
Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky
sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10 for
style points with their summer terrace, complete with hammocks, bright blue wooden gazebos, chaise lounges and
even a sandbox for the kids. Enjoy unusual views of Peter
and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky Island and the State
Hermitage Museum in background - along with the domes of
other St. Petersburg landmarks. Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class wines, cocktails, homemade
lemonade and Sangria.QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Marcelli’s
Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with
a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of
condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese
case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners
that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The
pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in
marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with
garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with
tomato, chili and basil - delicious. Also at Nevsky pr. 21
(metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul.
Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky
43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.
marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW
Quest’è Pasta
Founded by member of St. Petersburg’s Italian community, this is a restaurant for Italians and those who appreciate everything Italian. The first floor has a discrete design with pastel colours. The second storey is decorated
like a 19th century mansion with a fireplace, high ceilings
and stucco walls. On celebrations you can hear live opera
music. The menu does not include the pizzas typical in
most Italian restaurants, but you can enjoy some of the
chef’s specialties. A bottle of Italian wine is always a good
addition to your evening meal! For desert, then there is
no doubt about it, panna cotta or lemon cake.QE-3,
Vladimirsky pr. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 921 962
54 76, www.questepasta.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€.
PTAESW
Palermo
Palermo is a cosy restaurant, a stone’s throw from Nevsky
pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in
an Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian
beeches below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly
in the background, putting you instantly into a relaxed
frame of mind. In keeping with the Italian décor, Palermo
offers a Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty
of olives and lean, clean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00,
230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAESW
Testo
Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty
little basement bar, named after the Russian word for
dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu
daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style
thin crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and
red interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect
for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers
are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.QD-3,
Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64
20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €.
PTASW
Vladimirsky pr.12
tel:8(921)962-54-76
[email protected]
www.questepasta.ru
www.questepasta.com
REAL TRADITIONAL
ITALIAN FOOD
MORE THAN
Working hours
of the restaurant
11:30 - 02:00
Business - lunch time
(monday-friday)
11:30 - 16:00
Business-breakfasts,
banquets, weddings
and corporate events,
culinary master-classes,
wine degustations.
20 TYPES OF REAL
ITALIAN COFFEE
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August - September 2014
43
Where to eat
ginza news
Jamie’s Italian
The new season at Jamie’s Italian boasts a wide variety
of new dishes. With the restaurant now delivering, you
can now enjoy the famous Jamie Oliver’s own recipes
in the comfort of your own home. The restaurant presents a breakfast menu – scrambled eggs on toast with
salmon and spinach, or pancakes with a berry compote
and ricotta. In fact, the only thing left unchanged is the
incredible taste of Italy, a very friendly team and a wonderful London atmosphere!QD-2, Konyushennaya
pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 600 25 70, www.
jamieoliver.com/italian/russia/st-petersburg. Open
12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW
Tsar
Pop into the restaurant ‘Tsar’ for lunch from 12.00 till
16.00 and sample some excellent traditional authentic
Russian dishes. Salad with beef, nourishing soup, Siberian dumplings with Smetana, teas and jams, all in a
friendly atmosphere in the centre of the cultural capital. QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 640 19 00, www.tsar-project.ru. Open 08:00
until last guest, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. €€€.
PTALESW
Where to eat
Grand Hotel EUROPE
Sun, warmth, great vibes
and clear blue skies…
what can make a summer more perfect? The
perfect cocktail, of course.
Belmond hotels knows
the formula for summer
perfection and is therefore
very pleased to present
you a very special cocktail
collection from around the
world at the Lobby Bar in the Grand Hotel Europe. Just a
few of the flavorful concoctions you can expect from the
head bartender Alexey Smirnov who’s undergone a special
training course in the chain’s hotels in Brazil and Peru are
the signature cocktail of Belmond’s Peruvian hotels “Pisco
Sour” (pisco, lime juice, sugar syrup and quail egg white)
and the pride and joy of Belmond’s Copacabana Palace
in Rio de Janeiro and Belmond Hotel das Cataratas in the
Iguazu Falls National Park – the classical Brazilian Caipirinha!
Borrowing from Italy’s Cipriani Hotel in Venice, the Caruso
in Amalfi and the Splendido in Portofino we present two
classy summer thirst-quenchers: La Nina Passion (Italian
sparkling wine with elder-berry syrup and passionfruit) and
the Buonanotte Amigos! (tequila, fresh ginger, cucumber
and cranberry). That’s not all. Next door’s Mezzanine Café
is making full use of the melon and watermelon season
with a range of delightful fruity cocktails that are not to be
missed!QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.
grandhoteleurope.com.
Novotel
Every nation has its own special traditions and whether
you’re new to Russia or you’re more of a local by now, you
might have noticed that towards the end of summer things
tend to get “mushroomy” around here. Mushroom picking
is one of the favorite past times across the nation but, unfortunately, not ever one has the opportunity to take part
in this relaxing and delicious hobby. Not surprisingly, the
Russian cuisine boasts the largest variety of mushroomfilled dishes. If you won’t be able to get your Wellies on
and hit the forest this season, do not to fret: Novotel St.
Petersburg Center has prepared a very special menu so
that anyone and everyone can get a taste of this beloved
leisure pursuit. The restaurant Cote Jardin is thrilled to
offer you traditional Russian recipes that embrace all the
goodness of the wide variety of mushrooms our forests
spoil us with, as well as ones inspired by foreign cuisines.
Just a few mouth-watering examples include “Friseé salad
with chanterelles, potatoes, poached eggs and yogurt
dressing”, “Chanterelle Julienne”, and “Potato-cheese soup
with chanterelles”. And before we forget: mushrooms not
only make food more scrumptious but are also very good
for our health so make sure to get your vitamin supply
ahead of winter!QE-3, Novotel St. Petersburg Centre, ul.
Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335
11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679.
Radisson Royal Hotel
REstaurants in hotels
Courtyard by Marriott St.Petersburg
Pushkin hotel
There’s a very special Eastern Slavic holiday that takes
place on August 19th every year: Savior of the Apple
Feast Day. There are three such Savior holidays, the other
two being Honey Saviour and Nut Savior but the Apple
is the most important one of them all. Although it has
a pre-Christian origin associated with harvesting ripe
fruits, especially apples, it eventually became a Christian
holiday and now entails processions and blessings of
harvests...and eating lots and lots of apples, apple pies
or other dishes containing apples! Courtyard by Marriott
St.Petersburg Pushkin hotel is no stranger to local traditions or apple delicacies so come down to the Bierstube
Restaurant or Onegin Lounge to enjoy tasteful dishes
and desserts with apples!QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova
166, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.
courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru.
44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Radisson Hotels are known
for using their wide international presence and
proximity to different cultures of the world to enrich
guests’ experience. Radisson Royal Hotel invites you
to try a taste of India this
August in Cannelle Bar &
Café! The new exclusive
menu prepared by Radisson Royal Hotel’s sous-chef Ravi
Lall offers all the best from India wrapped up in the form
of finger food. Vegetarian guests will delight in vegetarian
dishes like Paneer Tikka or Sago and Aloo Tikki, while carnivores can savour Rawa Fried Fish in a Red chilli paste, Kalmi
Kebabs in yogurt and a blend of Indian spices and Beef
Shammi Kebabs with mint sauce. Afterwards, spoil your
sweet tooth with Gajar Ka Halwa (carrot and milk Pudding
with a scoop of vanilla ice cream). On a separate note, the
season of fruit and vegetables may end by September but
not in Radisson! The healthy lifestyle lives on so enjoy the
new vegetable menu of soups, hot dishes and desserts.
QE-3, Radisson Royal Hotel, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/
hotel-stpetersburg. €€.
Taleon Imperial Hotel
St. Petersburg’s elegant Taleon Imperial Hotel in the heart
of the Northern Capital would like to invite you to dine in
style and try a special fragrant summer menu at its panoramic Victoria Restaurant, located on the 6th floor,
while admiring a simply breatktaking view of the city’s historical center. This new menu was meticulously prepared
by Brand Chef Alexander Dregolsky to include the most
appetizing and flavorful in grilled dishes (Bone-in Beef
Rib from New Zealand, Rack of Lamb from Australia, Beef
Tenderloin, Veal Rib Chops, Chicken, Dorado or Giant King
Prawns) accompanied by a sauce of choice and a variety
of sides. But you must hurry as this unique menu is only
available until September 17th!
In addition to the grilled specialties, the summer menu
includes gourmet delicacies such as Crab Cake Napoleon
with Rouille sauce and avocado & tomato tar-tar, Chilean
Seabass with truffle risotto and Kenyan beans served with
coral oil emulsion, Tiger prawns and deep-sea scallops
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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with spinach and caviar sauce, Poached egg served on a
grain toast with homemade mayonnaise and Pike patties
with mild-cured asparagus and drawn butter.
But you must hurry as the gourmet menu is only available
until August 31st and the grill menu until September 17th!
QD-3, Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.
taleonimperialhotel.com.
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden
Outdoor summer terraces are the new big thing on the
streets of the Northern Capital but not many can boast
such a pleasant, cozy and truly laidback atmosphere that
the two brand news ones just launched by Sokos Hotels
can. The terrace at Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden is back
this season with beautiful new floral designs to create a
charming light-hearted summer ambiance, a revamped
special terrace menu from Executive chef Nikolay Eliseev
and an open grill, where guests can see their choice of
meat or fish be prepared right in front of them.
Summer of 2014 is definitely not short of fascinating,
captivating and riveting sporting events. The only difference is that now every sports fan can enjoy watching
their favorite game in a fresh outdoor setting instead of
a cooped up sports bar. Welcome to Sport Bar ‘84 at
the Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden. Twenty TV’s should be
more than enough to captivate the athletes’ every move;
a delicious menu abundant in burgers, several traditional
Finnish dishes and other solid culinary delights should
satisfy anyone’s taste; and, of course, a well stacked bar
should be able to quench just about everyone’s thirst.
QD-4, Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden, Bataisky per. 3a,
MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70,
www.sokoshotels.fi.
August - September 2014
45
Nightlife
Nightlife
The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink
and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls,
groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene.
On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique performances and eccentric people everywhere!
Artsy and Underground
Belochka & Mielofon
As tricky to find as all St. Petersburg’s underground bars tend
to be, head down Bankovsky pereulok and turn into the dark
side street at house 3, turn right and go up to the end of the
even darker and creepy looking yard and listen out for the
music coming from a basement. Down in the tartan wallpapered basement you’ll find two rooms, one a beer hall style
area for drinking and chatting and the other a louder dance
floor area with the obligatory table-football installed. QD2, Bankovsky per. 3, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 212 85 06.
Open 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. PEW
Borodabar
Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar
still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmosphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The homemade interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with industrial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists
and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul.
11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar.
ru. Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW
Cafe-Bar Produkty
Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky
little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin
nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design
and vibe – the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks
its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the
guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like
they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The
music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites
or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its
cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer.
QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 312 57 54. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00,
Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW
Bars and Pubs
Bristol Pub
Bristol is a quiet, respectable pub; a thick rug on the floor,
leather-upholstered sofas and velvet armchairs - everything here’s cosy and snug. Black-and-white photographs of the 20s and 30s create the atmosphere of the
England of the time. Don’t expect anything out of the
ordinary from the cooking - everything’s simply done, but
very tasty. The menu is a combination of European and
Russian dishes as well as a large assortment of beers and
other kinds of alcoholic beverage.QE-3, Ul. Marata 36/38,
MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 24 42, www.molly.su.
Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW
Dead Poets
This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a
more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the
discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey
is impressive and provided with a delicious range of snacks.
The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau
interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel.
(+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00,
Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW
Liverpool
If Beatles covers are your thing, you’ll enjoy Liverpool - a
pub with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool
serves great food in large portions, has screens for sport
events and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short
walk from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to
relax, play pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul.
Mayakovskogo 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579
20 54, www.liverpool.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAW
Mollie’s Irish Pub
St. Petersburg’s first Irish pub, located just off Nevsky,
offers just what you would expect from a bar like this.
Mollie’s serves up a wide range of beers, good food and
music (although it might be a bit loud for an intimate
conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats
and the occasional tourist.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36,
MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 37 68, www.molly.
su. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 01:00. PASW
Mollie’s Mews
A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The
Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar
clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the original pub on ulitsa Rubinshteina. What they are missing
in history they make up for in space however. Mollie’s
Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, meaning there’s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum
up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday
and Saturday evenings.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 5,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su.
Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW
Molly Island
Located on Vasilyevsky Island, this little Irish Pub is the
place to go after a day in the Lenexpo Exhibition Centre
or if you are staying in the nearby Hotel Pribaltiskaya. The
cosy interior, friendly staff and a vibrant mix of locals and
foreigners as well as a wide selection of beer, whiskey and
food, make it the perfect place to meet up with friends
or watch a game of football, if you don´t feel like travelling all the way to the centre.QB-1, Morskaya nab. 15,
MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, www.molly.su.
Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW
46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Molly Shelter
Shelter is the right word for this snug little basement Irish
Pub - its low vaulted brick ceilings and inviting booths
tucked away in various little nooks and crannies act as a
cocoon to the outside world and call out at you to settle
in, relax and take shelter. The basement’s careful restoration
gives the pub a very authentic look and the various bits of
antique pub clutter look well at home amongst chess playing punters and sports fans. They have good stouts and
ales on draught as well as the atypical Guinness.QD-3,
Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54,
www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PAESW
The Office Pub
This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral attracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots
and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught
including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about everything in between. It’s one of those offices where you
don’t mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has
the opposite effect on your wallet.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul.
5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su.
Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW
To read about even more clubs and bars
in St. Peterburg check out our website
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
August - September 2014
47
Nightlife
Nightlife
Clubs
Barrel
This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. There’s
an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a
bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox
fur stole with a martini and look down at the fellow wannabe
VIPs in attendance - until it’s pole dancing time, of course.
QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 929
82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest,
Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 06:00. PAESW
Dacha
This place gets really crowded during the weekend but then
it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the crazier the
atmosphere with people dancing up a huge sweat in this tiny
pocket of a place. Don’t dress too fancy if you’re coming here
for the night, you’re likely to get beer spilt on you and the
place is smokier than a cuban warehouse. Despite the mess
the friendly and energetic atmosphere of Dacha is addictive.
During the day they have a few tables outside and the same
quality taste in music which is complimented by sandwiches,
homemade lemonade and free wifi.QD-3, Dumskaya ul. 9,
MNevsky pr. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
Dom Byta
The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall
hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like
vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots
show impeccable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less
sensitive to the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on
quieter nights and amping it up for the more boisterous
weekends. QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladimirskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. PTAESW
Mishka
Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking husky,
this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized glasses
and handmade accessories. They’re smoking Belomorkanals
ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ who’s sharing space
with the friendly bartenders. As a bonus, the toilet rules are
interestingly translated - who flushes their wallet down the
bowl?QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
Radiobaby
With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby
has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and
chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock,
drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix
of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites
who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no
techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and
to the left.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www.
radiobaby.com. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW
48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
August - September 2014
49
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Kazan Cathedral: Modelled on St Paul’s Cathedral
in Rome the Kazan Cathedral was built21in 1801-1811. The
dome is 80 metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky
prospect has 96 columns.
FURSHTATS
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St. Petersburg’s central street and runs for 4.5 kilometres.
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centre for the cultural life of the city. Initially established Sunday in 1905 and the 1917 revolution. The central feature
in the 1710s under Peter the Great it was known as the of the square is. Alexander’s Column, which is 47.5 metres LETNY
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the occasional bouquet.
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nificant celebrations.
in 1926, it now houses a number of cultural organisations.
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August - September 2014
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50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
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dome is 101 metres high. During the Soviet period the tury. The Soviets turned
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SHOPPING
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western European painters, including a fine 19thL.and 20th small, elegantVchurch
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day was largely constructed under Catherine
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V
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Z
Y
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mid to late 18th century. The buildingAwas
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4
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known as the Big Prospekt
S
4
Bolsheviks during the November Revolution of 1917.
Church in 1990.NKY
paper or canvas though with modern pop sensibilities.
BO
51
What to see
What to see
Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures
of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of
random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected
on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection with
its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws
the crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.
ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the
month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the
most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest
architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times.
They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside town though. The city has an enormous amount
of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly
beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.
The Essentials
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St.
Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery,
where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky,
Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in
the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as
you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
BRIDGES
Bridges going up…
Dvortsovy
01:25 - 02:50
03:10 - 04:55
Blagoveshchensky
01:25 - 02:45
03:10 - 05:00
Sampsonievsky
01:30 - 04:30
Grenadersky
01:30 - 04:30
Kantemirovsky
01:30 - 04:30
Troitsky
01:35 - 04:50
Liteiny
01:40 - 04:45
Birzhevoy
02:00 - 04:55
Tutchkov
02:00 - 02:55
Bolsheokhtinsky
02:00 - 05:00
Volodarsky
02:00 - 03:45
Alexandra Nevskogo 02:20 - 05:10
Finlyandsky
02:20 - 05:30
52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
03:35 - 04:55
04:15 - 05:45
Church of the Saviour on the Spilt
Blood
This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion
domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of
St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and
memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because
it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because
the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each
wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in
the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
Cruiser Avrora
The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side,
has become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because
blank shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the
trigger for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during
WWII, to protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it
was made into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval
Museum. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious
rumours have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But
who knows? Why not find out for yourself!QE-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40.
Open 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl.
Kazan Cathedral
This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is
one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811
to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The
dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky
has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t
like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00
Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Peter and Paul Fortress
The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St. Petersburg’s first
settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous
Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with
numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side
views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s
House museum which examines the history of the city and
the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain
Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. However, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of
Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The
Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop
contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the
bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31,
www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00.
All details about museums and cathedral open hours
on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive
ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
Russian Museum
A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the
cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is
housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze
of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky
Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured
genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois
Wing has an especially strong display of work from the
turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance
to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky
Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.
rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00,
Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl.
All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum
of Anthropology and Ethnography)
St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great
St. Isaac’s Cathedral
Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the world’s
largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned
with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858
the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great who
was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear
day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32,
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of
the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade
are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.
Summer Garden
Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, surrounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees
and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century,
it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank.
Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but
these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues
have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky handturned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made
by different blacksmiths.QD-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Tue. Admission free.
CITY CARD
Get the most out of
your trip to St. Petersburg with the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card gives
you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around the
city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than
40 museums around the city and a free boat trip to
Peterhof. It also gives you discounts for a number of
tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a
visitor to the city with only a couple of days here or
an expat wanting to get to know the insides and outs
of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available is available in 2, 3, 5
and 7 days options for your convenience. More information at www.petersburgcard.com.
Take note that most museum ticket offices
close one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you to buy
an extra photography ticket if you would like
to take photos or videos
August - September 2014
53
What to see
What to see
Hermitage
Churches
Museums
The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that
the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world,
but it’s certainly not the second.” And with over three
million works of art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail
to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go
on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual
tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of
time to spend there if you want to see the main state
rooms and some of the most popular artworks.
St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and monasteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course there is St.
Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals
in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk
up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer
consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique
Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka
Canal. These buildings give a great insight into Russia’s past.
St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum
under the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something for everyone, from the world famous Hermitage
art gallery, to museums about the city’s famous writers,
including Dostoevsky, as well as museums dedicated to
vodka (of course!), chocolate, and bread! You can also
see castles and palaces, such as the Mikhailovsky Castle,
and the Menshikov Palace, as well as the Peter and Paul
Fortress, which is now The State Museum of History of St
Petersburg. Also, for one night every year in May, all of the
museums in the city open their doors until the early hours
for the Night of the Museums, which is very popular with
tourists and locals alike!
The museum’s art collection covers all of the greatest European movements. Lovers of the renaissance
shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt
room filled with works by the old master is another
must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and
the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a
very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art.
The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of ancient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities
from the near and central east.There is also a number of
cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of
the main staircase after the entrance to the museum.
The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the
throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock
room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries,
parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor
(in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in
different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you
enter the museum just after the ticket offices).
QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from
Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open
10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.
54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Smolny Cathedral
QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl,
concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.
St. Nicholas Cathedral
QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30.
Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.
Troitsky Cathedral
QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open
08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.
Vladimirsky Cathedral
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00.
F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial
Museum
QD-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should
be booked in advance by phone.
Memorial flat of Alexander Blok
QB-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713
86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl.
Nabokov Museum
QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.
Pushkin Apartment Museum
QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40
- 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl.
Artillery Museum
QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232
02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission
50 - 300Rbl.
Grandmaket (Russia in miniature)
QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7)
812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 400Rbl, children 200Rbl. Weekend
450Rbl, children 250Rbl.
House of Peter the Great
QD-2, Petrovskaya nab. 6, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 232 45 76, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the
month. Admission 70 - 200Rbl.
Museum of the History of Religion
QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 58 38, www.gmir.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Tue 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Wed. Admission 150 - 300Rbl.
Museum of the St. Petersburg Avantgarde (Matyushin house)
QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission
60 - 100Rbl.
Museum of Political History of Russia
QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky
pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.
polithistory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl.
Suvorov Memorial Museum
QE-3, Kirochnaya ul. 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
50 - 300Rbl.
Yusupov Palace
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 17:00. Group tours should be booked in advance by
phone (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl.
Audioguide 500Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
Lyrical City
With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born
in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city
without visiting one of the museums honouring them.
Russian Vodka Museum
Vodka Museum
This small museum presents the long history of
Russia’s national drink,
from 12th Century peasants
through to 20th Century
presidents. Display cases
full of vodka bottles in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and some
funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An excursion is recommended as the exhibits are
in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance
to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian
snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su. Open
12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.
modern art centres
If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided
for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries,
including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on
young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery,
which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta
Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the
biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in
Russia, and houses around 2000 works.
Anna Nova Art Gallery
QD-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
+7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru.
Borey Art Centre
QD-3, Liteiny pr. 58, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
275 38 37, www.borey.ru.
DiDi Art Gallery
QB-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 62, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 320 73 57, www.didigallery.com.
Erarta
QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.
Marina Gisich Gallery
QC-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com.
Novy musey
QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.
S.P.A.S Gallery
QC-2, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru.
ROSPHOTO
QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.
August - September 2014
55
What to see
PARKS
St. Petersburg is home to many parks and gardens in
which you can while away an afternoon. They are romantic and beautiful, whether dipped in sunlight or
blanketed in snow. The Summer Garden is the oldest,
dating back to the 18th Century, and was designed by
Peter the Great. A lot of the parks are home to cafes
and other facilities for visitors. Yelagin Park, located on
Yelagin Island, is one of the most popular parks in the
city, and often hosts various events throughout the
year. The parks are great places to get away from the
chaos of the city and enjoy nature.
Tavrichesky Garden
QF-3, MChernyshevskaya, www.tavrsad.com.
Open 24hrs.
Yelagin Park
QMKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 430 09 11,
www.elaginpark.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 23:00.
Yusupovsky garden
QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 50, MSennaya pl. Open 24hrs.
BE MY happy guest
This is a new project to give foreign visitors a truly Russian experience to explore the culture and the friendship of the real Russia. Be My Guest arranges home
stays for tourists, so you can enjoy a home made meal,
spend the evening chatting to your hosts, perhaps
even learn how to cook borsch, make Russian pancakes
or home made pelmeni. Be My Guest opens up Russian’s homes and Russian’s hearts to you. Discover local
traditions, local superstitions and try to discover the secret of the Russian soul. The project also offers a range
of unusual cultural programmes that help you understand the domestic side of Russian life and lets you
discover what it is like to live like a Russian. Put politics
aside and discover this homely world. www.facebook.
com/BeMyHappyGuest, tel. (+7) 981 168 07 42
56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
What to see
Tours around
Old Soviet Stuff TourS
Central Landing-Stage Pier with Lions
One of the joys of St. Petersburg is the chance to go boating
along the canals and rivers. You really get a different perspective of the city from the water and the reflections of
the coloured sky and palaces are enchanting. At the central
landing-stage Pier with Lions they offer regular water water
trips every hour along the Neva River, the Gulf of Finland,
the city`s canals and even to the fountains of Peterhof. They
have tours with audioguides in different languages, special
jazz tours, BBQ evenings, a bar and a VIP lounge. Boat tours
will depart daily from mid-April.QD-2, Admiralteiskaya
nab. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 320 08 77, www.
boattrip.ru. Admission: tickets for adults range from 400
- 1,000Rbl. Online booking and discount for children,
students and return tickets. PAUEK
If you want to see a completely different side of St. Petersburg there are some new initiatives which aim to show you
the fascinating sights beyond St. Petersburg. One of those
is WOW Russia Tours which offers tours in a classic Soviet
Volga. We decided to check their signature tour; the Old
Soviet Stuff Tour.
The tour is a rough history of the communistic era with
some iconic buildings as an example. From the place where
the revolution started all the way up to the Soviet 70s. It
wasn’t a boring history lesson but a combination of interesting stories and anecdotes instead. The tour contains a
Lenin pointing at things, a futuristic looking building which
could be starring in any science fiction movie ,a slowly decaying communistic factory and some other surprises just
around the corner.
We visited all the sites with a classic Soviet GAZ Volga 24.
Called a ‘Soviet Mercedes’ this 1979 Volga 24 is pretty big
and supposed to have 125 horsepower but we think some
horses left the engine over the years . We liked the 70’s
interior with its fancy fake wood dashboard and mustard
yellow seats. Nothing makes you feel more in Russia then a
noisy, slightly uncomfortable, old piece of Soviet engineering pride. The drive should already be a part of the adventure and with this Volga that certainly was the case!
WOW Russia Tours was set up by Jonathan who left Holland
by car all the way to the south of Russia, before he settled
in St. Petersburg. He’s been in love with the country since
his first visit and wants to share this with his guests. Except
for tours in his Volga car, Jonathan will also offer other excursions during the season. Something involving Russian
country-life, how to cleanse yourself from your sins and
dirt and we even heard the word Kalashnikov somewhere
during our trip. Top all this off with a small shot of vodka
and explore Russia as you have never seen it before. As says
their slogan! Have fun! QTel. (+7) 965 786 26 48, www.
wowrussiatours.com. Tours are possible everyday.
Pick up point and time are flexible. Admission from
2,000Rbl per person.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
August - September 2014
City Tour Bus
Tracing a route around
the city’s most popular
spots such as St. Isaac’s
Square, Avrora, Peter
and Paul Fortress, these
unique in Russia hopon, hop-off red doubledeckers are a great way
to see a lot in just a short
time. The route takes just
over two hours to complete and there are audio
guides that narrate the
most fascinating facts and legends about St. Petersburg
and its heroes in one of 11 languages, including Japanese,
Chinese, Swedish, Finnish and Dutch. An added advantage
is that the ticket is valid for a whole day, so you can plan
your own city visit as you like, taking your own time for
visiting museums, taking photos, lunch or even a beer
on an embankment.QD-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 718 47 69/(+7) 961 800 07 55, www.
citytourspb.ru. Start from Ostrovsky sq., departure
every 30-60 min from 09:00 till 19:00. Adults 500Rbl,
students 400Rbl, children under 12 years old 200Rbl.
Tickets can be bought on the bus. PUN
Peter’s Walking Tours
A diverse choice of tours and personalised routes, add in
some extremely informative and downright friendly guides
makes going on a Peter’s Walking Tours one of the best
choices you can make while visiting St. Petersburg. Guides
are extremely informative about architecture and history,
as well as modern Russian society and with their ‘alternative’ routes, they can show you how to escape the tourist
traps and reveal the real city. By the end of your tour you
feel inspired and educated. They also have bike tours. For
more information and full timetable check out the website.
QTel. (+7) 812 943 12 29, www.peterswalk.com. Walking
tours are held daily until the end of October. Walking
tour 650Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
57
What to see
What to see
St. Petersburg‘s
Historical Outskirts
Opening Times
and Tickets
Oranienbaum
QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33, www.oranienbaum.org.
Park open daily 09:00 - 20:00. Palaces open 10:30 18:00, closed Mon. Park admission 200Rbl. Palaces
250 - 550Rbl, all inclusive ticket 550Rbl.
Pavlovsk
QTel. (+7) 812 452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.
ru. Park open daily 10:00 - 20:00. Palace open 10:00
- 17:00. Closed first Mon of the month. Admission to
park 80 - 150Rbl. Admission to palace 250 - 450Rbl.
Peterhof
QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.
ru. Park open daily 09:00 - 19:00. Palaces open
10:30 - 18:00, Great Palace open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat
10:30 - 21:00. Great Palace closed on Mondays and
last Tue of the month. Admission to lower park
adults 500Rbl and students 250Rbl. The upper park
is free. Admission Great Palace adults 500Rbl. and
students 300Rbl. Tour booking office (+7) 812 450
58 06.
Pushkin
QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Catherine
Park open 09:00 - 21:00. Catherine’s Palace open
12:00 - 14:00 and 16:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 14:00
and 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the
month. Admission: Park 60 - 120Rbl, Catherine Palace 200 - 400Rbl, audioguide 150Rbl.
Strelna
QTel. (+7) 812 438 53 60, www.konstantinpalace.
ru. Open 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Call before you
visit the palace, to make sure it’s not closed for an
official function. Admission 200 - 300Rbl. Excursion
in English 3,000Rbl (1,5 hour up to 15 people, each
participant has to pay individual admission 300Rbl.)
58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Konstantinovsky Palace
Once known as Putin’s Palace, this palace is now one of the
official Presidential residences. Historically speaking, the
Palace’s original owners were the Romanovs; however, after the 1917 Revolution, it fell into disrepair. Nowadays the
public can enjoy the immaculate lawns. Inside the palace
are spectacular views over the gulf and sumptuous meeting rooms with huge sparkling chandeliers. There is also a
display of Russian paintings, decorative and applied arts
from 18th to 20th century as well as a unique collection of
fine wines. Note you must show your passport when you
enter (this is also an official government building).
Peterhof Palace and Park
Accurately referred to as the ‘Russian Versailles’, Peterhof is one of Russia’s number one tourist attractions. It
is particularly spectacular from late-May to mid-October,
when the 147 fountains are turned on, but even so it is
well worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great
Palace was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that
followed each wanted to make their own mark, adding
another palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal
point of the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace and from
there the park spreads out to the left and right along the
coastline with trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble
sculptures and other impressive stuff. Other museums
worth visiting within the grounds include the Hermitage
Palace, the Marly Palace and Monplaisir, the little house
where Peter the Great used to organise parties for his
closest (and rowdiest) friends.
wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis. There are numerous development plans in progress in Oranienbaum, also known as
Lomonosov. You can have a cheap Russian dinner in a cafe
near the administration building, the only place in the park
where you can buy food or drinks.
Pavlovsk
Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to
describe Pavlovsk. Only 27km from the big city, it feels like
a world away. The small town hosts the fascinating Pavlovsk Palace, encompassed by a huge 1,500 acre park. Tall
trees, winding streams and endless paths scattered with
classical statues and flanked by benches make for many
a secluded spot. If you have active children who need a
place to blow off some steam, pack a picnic and make an
afternoon of it. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with its
magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes. The
country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful
architecture and captivating history. Certainly not as grand
as Peterhof, but much less touristy, Pavlovsk is a great
place to get away from it all.
Oranienbaum
Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isn’t quite as popular among
tourists as other similar palaces, but it’s nonetheless a
lovely place for a picnic or for a walk through peaceful gardens and pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of
Peter the Great’s best friends, started building the estate
and its Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of
her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with
baroque outside and rococo within. Menshikov’s Grand
Palace hasn’t changed a great deal over the centuries and
it’s one of the few palaces on the outskirts of the city that
Pushkin
Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of
St. Petersburg’s most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe
Selo or the ‘Royal Village’ was renamed Pushkin following
the communist revolution in honour of one of its other
well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin. In
2010 the town celebrated its 300th birthday and following intense restoration works Pushkin’s many treasures are
sparkling. Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park
filled with quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress and the sparkling Amber room of Catherine’s Palace
to the quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent
their final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks
and the literary school museum where the poet Alexander
Pushkin studied.
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Getting There
Pushkin – Pavlovsk
Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of
St. Petersburg.
By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station:
for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or
take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299.
From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186,
for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286.
By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train
station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo.
From there you can walk to Catherine’s Palace (20min)
or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382.
For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to
Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or
marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from
Kupchino metro/train station.
Strelna – Peterhof – Oranienbaum
Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg
on the Finnish gulf. Oranienbaum is located 40km west
of St. Petersburg and Strelna is located six kilometres
east of Peterhof (about halfway between St. Petersburg
proper and Peterhof ).
By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take
marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a.
You can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky
train station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka
404. From Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka
343, 639b. From Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka
103(K224). Don’t forget to warn the driver (or passengers) that you want to exit next to the fountains (ask for
Fontany or Dvorets (fountains or palace)).
For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.
By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy
Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe,
Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof,
take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver
that you want to exit next to the fountains.
For Strelna get off at the Strelna station. For Oranienbaum get off at the Oranienbaum station.
To Peterhof you can also take the Meteor speedboat from Admiralteiskaya nab. 2. See more: www.
peterhof-express.ru. The hydrofoil comes directly to
the Lower park of Peterhof.
August - September 2014
59
Where to stay
Where to stay
Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a
month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables
you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection
of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique
mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these
hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate
the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much
as the high flying business executive who is looking for a
quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and
cultural programmes.
5 Stars
Angleterre Hotel
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193
rooms.
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380
20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms.
Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg
QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms.
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
St. Petersburg
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.
183 rooms.
Golden Garden Hotel
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms.
Grand Hotel Europe
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
Hotel Astoria
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.
197 rooms.
Radisson Royal Hotel
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164
rooms.
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.
Taleon Imperial Hotel
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.
W St. Petersburg
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel
QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via
Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50
00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms.
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Vasilievsky
QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru.
214 rooms.
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport
the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport
terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms.
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms.
Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota
metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel.
(+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms.
Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo
QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms.
Nevsky Forum
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 69, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333
02 22, www.nevskyforum.com. 29 rooms.
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre
QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky
St. Petersburg
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
406 73 10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269
rooms.
Park Inn by Radisson Pribaltiyskaya
QA-3, Ul. Korablestroiteley 14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7)
812 329 26 26, www.parkinn.com. 1200 rooms.
Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya
and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms.
Radisson Sonya Hotel
QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg.
173 rooms .
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky
QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms.
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden
QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut,
tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms.
Vedensky Hotel
QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS 37, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812
332 42 22, www.alrosa-hotels.ru/hotels/st-petersburg/.
158 rooms.
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August - September 2014
4 Stars
U menya zabronirovan nomer I have a reservation
60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
61
Where to stay
Where to stay
Ask the Concierge
Interview with Natalia Moshkina, Head
Concierge of Belmond
Grand Hotel Europe
Please tell us something about yourself.
My name is Natalia Moshkina. I was born in Saint
Petersburg. I studied at the
State University of Art and
Culture and graduated specialising in Spanish language. I have always been interested
in humanities, languages and arts, which all influenced my
future career choice. I speak three foreign languages: Spanish, English and Italian. I am proud to say that I have worked
at Belmond Grand Hotel Europe for eight years now; I started as a Junior Concierge, and now I’ve risen to the position
of Head Concierge where I’m lucky enough to work with a
wonderful team.
Tell us why St. Petersburg is the most beautiful city
in the world. Because it’s full of culture, full of colours, and
always different but so native and beloved. We St. Petersburg citizens have a calm, relaxed and reflective attitude. I
like to travel a lot, and it’s when I come home from a trip that
I feel an especially strong love for my city. What I find most
impressive is catching views of breath-taking sunsets walking along the embankments and avenues when the city is
at its most picturesque. I enjoy the harmony of my city.
3 Stars
tel. (+7) 812 337 24 34, www.stonyisland.com. 50
rooms.
Vesta
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 92, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
272 13 22, www.vesta-hotel.ru. 16 rooms.
3 Mosta Hotel
QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 3A, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
332 34 70, www.3mosta.com. 26 rooms.
Amaranta Admiralteyskaya Hotel
QC-3, Ul. A. Bloka 8, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 495 44
65, www.amaranta.ru. 54 rooms.
Andersen Hotel
QC-1, Ul. Chapygina 4, bldg. A, MPetrogradskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 740 51 40, www.andersenhotel.ru. 140 rooms.
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg
QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.
Cronwell Inn Stremyannaya
QE-3, Stremyannaya ul. 18, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 406 04 50, www.stremyannaya-hotel.com. 49
rooms.
Herzen House
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms.
Hotel Vera
QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 25/16, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 702 61 90, www.hotelvera.ru. 70 rooms.
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.
Stony Island Hotel
QC-1, Kamennoostrovsky pr. 45, MPetrogradskaya,
Cubahostel
QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 921 71 15, www.cubahostel.ru. 15 rooms.
Simple Hostel
QD-3, Gorokhovaya ul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 385 25 28, www.simplehostel.com. 7 rooms.
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August - September 2014
Mini-hotels
5th Corner Hotel
QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 13, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
380 81 81, www.5ugol.ru. 52 rooms.
AlexanderPlatz
QE-4, Voronezhskaya ul. 53, MObvodny kan., tel. (+7)
812 490 48 10, www.eurasia-hotel.ru. 35 rooms.
Art-hotel Rachmaninov
QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
97 78, www.hotelrachmaninov.com. 24 rooms.
Domik v Kolomne
QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 174 bldg. A, MSadovaya,
tel. (+7) 812 710 83 51, www.colomnahotel.ru. 9 rooms.
Hostels
What is your most memorable experience while
working in hotels? Definitely the day when I saw the
Spanish Royal Family during their stay at Belmond Grand
Hotel Europe - my childhood dream had come true, which I
never imagined would happen in real life!
What can we expect from the Grand Hotel Europe
in August & September? In August our hotel’s restaurant
Caviar Bar, the only caviar restaurant in St. Petersburg, will
offer guests a wide and unique selection of Caviar: 11 sorts
of black and red caviar, as well as exclusive albino sturgeon
golden caviar – famous for its rare and delicate flavour.
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia
are obliged to register within seven
working days (this excludes weekends
and public holidays). Remember your
hotel is obliged to register you as staying
in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register
you make sure you complain - the registrations is their responsibility, not yours!
62 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
63
Shopping
Shopping
Russian souvenirs
RAKETA WATCHES
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just
talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are
looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we
recommend you consider buying some of the following:
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but
also the only watch factory in the whole country.
With the help of Swiss
engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in
2009. There are now approximately 60 workers,
(originally there were around 6000), still using the
factory’s original buildings. The factory purchased
modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011,
which improved the watch quality; although a range
of Soviet machines indispensible to the watchmaking process are still in use. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions.
In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an eagle, a
symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic
War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi
Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. www.raketa.com
Platok
A perfect present for any female friend or relative.
These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can
either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being
worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma
look even cuter than usual by being worn around the
head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable
type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The
real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so
delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled
through a woman’s wedding ring.
Birch wood crafts
The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice
that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It
then comes as no surprise that Russians have been
experts at producing items carved out of the bark of
their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly
popular as they are said to be very good for your hair.
Khokhloma
This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates
back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in
your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you
have space for more you can find almost anything with
khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco
sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic
team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.
Vodka and Caviar
They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and
crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka
brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most
expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set
you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market.
Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than
not it is fake and/or illegal.
64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Moskovsky Department
Store
The Moskovsky Department Store is a large mall located on Moskovsky prospect, one of the city’s main
roads as you approach St. Petersburg from the airport. The shopping centre is located on both sides
of the road with departments for men, women and
children. With a total area of 10.5 square kilometers
there should be something for everyone and as the
shops are open 24 hours you can get what you need
no matter how early or how late. The shopping centre supplies top foreign and Russian brands.QMoskovsky pr. 207, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 373
44 55, www.moskovsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Bookshops
Bukvoed
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06
01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW
Dom Knigy
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23
55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK
Gallery Mikhailov
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A
Lomonosov Porcelain Factory
QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
Nevsky Souvenir Shop
QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya
ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.
nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Pavloposadskie Platki Shop
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963
329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
Souvenirs Fair
QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A
Shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54
08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QD-2,
Bol.
Konyushennaya
ul.
21-23,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW
GALERIA QD-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya,
tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK
Nevsky Centre
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52
57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00. AK
Vladimirsky Passage
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
ALKW
Eliseevsky Store
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66
66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Stockmann Delicatessen
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 60 00, www.stockmann.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Built in 1909 the building's architecture mixes modernist and art nouveau influences popular at the turn
of century, inside however the influences are much
more cutting edge. Five floors of designer shopping
promise shoppers a world of luxury goodies from the
likes of YSL, Chanel, Versace, Alexander Wang, Gucci,
Marc Jacobs and many more. On the top floor there is
a restaurant for fashionistas who need to take a break
and for the discerning VIP shopper personal stylist
services will also be available.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AKW
Galeria
The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and
a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway Station,
Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful new
building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s everything
you would expect from your modern shopping mall
and more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St.
Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis,
Mexx and French Connection to some Russian designer
clothes as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food
court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some very good
restaurants. When with children, head to the top floor
where there is a huge entertainment area for the young
and young-at-heart.QD-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.
ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK
Vintage and Second-hand
Chocolate Museum
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A
Banya Concept Store
QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60, MObnodny kanal,
tel. (+7) 812 457 19 48, www.banyaconcept.com. Open
12:00 - 22:00.
Shop Salon Off
QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 60, MObvodny kanal,
tel. (+7) 812 929 92 03, www.offoffoff.ru. Open 12:00 22:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
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Gifts and Souvenirs
DLT Department store
August - September 2014
65
Expat & Lifestyle
Expat & Lifestyle
In this section we seek to highlight various organisations
one can join, expat cultural institutions, religious services,
and other items of interest that make your expat experience in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly
well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and
we recommend taking advantage of these connections. If
you would like your expat group to be featured here, just
drop us a line at [email protected].
russian for expats
Lapsha – Лапша
In Russian it means ‘noodles’, and you can easily find this
word on the menu of a restaurant. Then it’s up to you to
see if you feel like trying the ‘Russian spaghetti’ or not.
But if a Russian woman (or man!) tells you: “что ты мне
лапшу на уши вешаешь?!” (literally, ‘stop hanging spaghetti on my ears!’), then it’s a whole different story. It
means that you have overstepped your courting abilities,
and that your date is reproaching you for fooling him/
her with untruthful and exaggerated compliments. The
origin of this expression is much disputed. An interesting explanation calls into question the Italians, who are
as famous for their delicious spaghetti, as well as for their
reputation of impenitent Don Juans.
Liden & Denz
Liden & Denz is one of St Petersburg’s oldest language
schools, having opened in 1992. Now they have expanded
into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor (though the
original centre off Ligovsky pr. also remains opens). Russian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though
individual tuition is also available. Classrooms are bright
and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There
are computers with internet access for student use, plus
wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3,
Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07
88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
internations
InterNations is the biggest global networking site for
expats of various nationalities and their family members
with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide.
Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Petersburg too.
By becoming a member you gain access to the online
social network were you can connect with other expats,
browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats
and interact with people who may have the same interests. Most importantly of course InterNations also host
monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events at
www.internations.org.
66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
Cultural Centres
and Libraries
British Book Centre
QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova),
MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britaniaspb.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sun.
Danish Cultural Institute
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik
QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00.
Finnish Institute
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign Literature Library
QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00,
closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00,
closed Sun.
Goethe Institute
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15
- 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed
Sun.
Institut Francais
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Istituto Italiano di Cultura
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00
- 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Japan Center
QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
The Netherlands Institute
QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
clinics
American Medical Clinic and Hospital
QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky 78, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812
740 20 90, www.amclinic.com. Open 24hrs.
Euromed Medical Center
QF-2, Suvorovsky pr. 60, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 327 03 01, www.euromed.ru. Open 24hrs.
Scandinavia clinic
QE-3, Liteiny pr. 55A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
600 77 77, www.avaclinic.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Expat Contacts
Dutch Club St. Petersburg
Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com.
English Communication Club
Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru.
Fryday
Qwww.fryday.net.
International Women’s Club
Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held
once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are
organised daily.
Religious Services
Catholic Church of St. Catherine
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Evangelical Lutheran Church of St.
Katarina (Swedish church)
QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/
Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/.
Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Grand Choral Synagogue
of St. Petersburg
QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for
visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00.
Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 18:00.
Derzhavin Institute
The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one
wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven
classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows.
There’s also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term,
long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at
all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses
for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of
8 students per group. The staff speak many different
languages and have experience in teaching at both
Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise
accommodation, excursions and other social activities
for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor,
MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19
26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes
till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
The Expat Experience
Please tell us something about yourself? Hello! My name
is James Wheeler and
I have been coming
to Russia for almost
8 years. I have mainly
travelled to St. Petersburg but I have also
visited Moscow, Samara and Yaroslavl.
How did you end up in Russia? I was invited for a
holiday after finishing university and as most students
take a gap-year between studies or finding a job I decided to accept the invitation to Visit Russia.
I knew nothing at all about Russia but like most young
people was enthusiastic about seeing the world and
meeting new people. I was initially invited for three
months but after 7 years of traveling here I have become a huge fan of St. Petersburg, the Russians and
the Slavic hospitality. I’m still wrangling with holodets
though - ha ha! (holodets - is usually beef in cold jelly
served with a shot of vodka. It can be delicious. It can
also be very rubbery)
What would you recommend first time visitors to
St. Petersburg? Try the holodets! But serioulsy - immmerse yourself in the culture and meet the locals. It is
said time & again that once you impart the icy exterior
of a Russian there is endless warm & welcome just beneath the surface.
My favourite places to visit would be the Peter & Paul
Fortress, Elagin island and the surrounding waterways
and boat clubs. St. Isaacs Cathedral, the Church of St.
Nicholas, & Kazan Cathedral are also very impressive.
Definitely take a boat trip. I would recommend starting
from Anichkov Bridge on Nevsky Prospekt, it’s the one
with the exquisite but rebellious horses. Take the excursion which goes into the city, under bridges through
winding, narrow canals, then finally breaking out onto
the grand Neva.
Why Dickens? Dickens pubs attempt to meld the Russians desire for table service with a traditional pub atmosphere. We started 9 years ago and have expanded
to 4 pubs in the city centre, each unique but all serving fresh varied beers the traditional British way. Beer
enthusiasts will not be disappointed with our forty
taps dispensing cold-room chilled beers in styles from
around the world. We look forward to seeing you!
Skolko stoit? – How much is it?
August - September 2014
67
Maps
Business
Accountants and
Lawyers
Acsour
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Avenir Group
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Deloitte Touche CIS
QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center
Gustaf, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06,
www.deloitte.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. PW
EMG (Accountants & Consultants)
QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, office 69,
MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia.
com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Ernst and Young (Accountants & Consultants)
QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. Open 08:30 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
KPMG
QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Mannheimer Swartling
QD-2, Ul. Mal. Konyushennaya 1/3A, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se.
Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Moore Stephens International
QE-1, Bolshoy Sampsonievsky pr. 4/6A, business centre
Monblan, off. 204, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 332 28 51,
www.moorestephens.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners
QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 640 60 10, www.pgplaw.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
PriceWaterhouseCoopers
QD-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326
69 69, www.pwc.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Business Association for North-Western
Russia
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Advertise on this map!
Call:
(+7) 812 448 88 65
68 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
August - September 2014
69
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Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St.
Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery.
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Find our review on page 38
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Mariinsky Theatre
The home of Russian ballet and opera since the 1860s,
the Mariinsky Theatre, is a cultural leader and one of the
most illustrious and beautiful theatres in the world.
Find our review on page 40
156
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Street register
Moscow
1-28-ya liniya
B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.
C-3
Rubinshteina ul.
E-3
Admiralteisky pr.
D-3
E-2
Ryleeva ul.
E-2
Kovensky per.
Alexandra Nevskogo most
F-3
Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.
F-2
Sadovaya ul.
E-2,3
Angliskaya nab.
C-3
Kronverkskaya nab.
D-2
Sampsonievsky most
D-1
E-2
Anichkov most
E-3
Kronversky pr.
D-1
Sapyorny per.
Arsenalnaya nab.
E-2
Kutuzova nab.
D-2/E-2
Shpalernaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Bakunina pr.
F-3
Lermontovsky pr.
C-3/C-4
Shvedsky per.
D-2
Baskov per.
E-2
Letny sad
D-2
Sinopskaya nab.
F-3
Belinskogo ul.
E-2
Leitenanta Shmidta nab.
C-3
Smolnaya nab.
F-2
Birzhevaya liniya
C-2
Ligovsky pr.
E-3/E-4
Solyanoy per.
E-2
Blagoveshchensky most
C-2
Liteiny most
E-2
Sotsialisticheskaya ul.
E-3
Blokhina ul.
C-2
Liteiny pr.
E-2/E-3
Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.
E-3/F-2,3
Bol. Konyushennaya ul.
D-2
Lomonosova ul.
D-3/E-3
Spassky per.
D-3
Bol. Morskaya ul.
C-3/D-3
Makarova nab.
C-2
Sredniy pr. (V0)
B-2,3/C-2
Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.
D-3
Mal. Konyushennaya ul.
D-2
Starorusskaya ul.
F-3
Bolsheokhtinsky most
F-2
Mal. Morskaya ul.
D-3
Stolyarny per.
D-3
Bolshoy pr. (PS)
C-1,2
Mal. Posadskaya
D-1
Stremyannaya ul.
E-3
Bolshoy pr. (VO)
B-3/C-2
Mal. Sadovaya
E-3
Suvorovsky pr.
F-2,3
Chernyshevskogo pr.
E-2
Maly pr. (PS)
C-1
Sverdlovskaya nab.
F-1,2
Chkalovsky pr.
C-1
Maly pr. (VO)
B-1
Tavricheskaya ul.
F-2
Degtyarnaya ul.
F-3
Manezhnaya pl.
E-3
Chaikovskogo ul.
E-2
Dekabristov ul.
C-3/D-3
Marata ul.
E-3
Teatralnaya pl.
C-3
Dostoevskogo ul.
E-3
Marsovo pole
D-2
Troitsky most
D-2
Dumskaya ul.
D-3
Mayakovskogo ul.
E-2/E-3
Tuchkov most
C-2
Dvortsovaya nab.
D-2
Mendeleevskaya liniya
C-2
Tverskaya ul.
F-2
Efimova ul.
D-3
Mikhailovskaya ul.
D-3
Universitetskaya nab.
C-2,3
Furshtatskaya ul.
E-2
Millionnaya ul.
D-2
Vladimirsky pr.
E-3
Galernaya ul.
C-3
Moskovsky pr.
D-3/D-4
Vosstaniya ul.
E-2,3
Glinki ul.
C-3
Moiky reky nab.
C-3/D-2,3
Vosstaniya pl.
E-3
Goncharnaya ul.
E-3
Muchnoy per.
D-3
Voznesensky pr.
D-3
Gorokhovaya ul.
D-3
Mytninskaya nab.
С-2/D-2
Zagorodny pr.
D-3,4/E-3
Grafsky per.
E-3
Nekrasova ul.
E-2
Zhukovskogo ul.
E-3
Griboedova kan. nab.
C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.
D-3/E-3/F-3
Grivtsova per.
D-3
Ostrovskogo pl.
E-3
Inzhenernaya ul.
E-3
Pestelya ul.
E-2
Abbreviations
Isaakievskaya pl.
D-3
Petrovskaya nab.
D-2
Ul. – Ulitsa
Iskusstv pl.
D-3
Pirogovskaya nab.
E-1/E-2
Pr. – Prospekt
Italyanskaya ul.
D-3/D-4
Pochtamtskaya ul.
C-3
Pl. – Ploshchad
Kadetskaya liniya
C-2
Poltavskaya ul.
F-3
Bul. – Bulvar
Kamennoostrovsky pr.
D-1
Pushkinskaya ul.
E-3
Per. – Pereulok
Karavannaya ul.
E-3
Radishcheva ul.
E-2/E-3
Kan. – Kanal
Kazanskaya ul.
D-3
Razyezzhaya ul.
E-3
Nab. – Naberezhnaya
Kirochnaya ul.
E-2/F-2
Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.
C-3,4/D-3
Bol. – Bolshaya
Kolokolnaya ul.
E-3
Robespyera nab.
E-2
Mal. – Malaya
72 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com
Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business
capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious
from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this
mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife
reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent history and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted,
the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.
Churches
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon
13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English
for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking
required call (+7) 495 637 28 47).
Novodevichy Monastery
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499
246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
Pokrovsky Monastery
QE-3, Ul. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7)
495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 20:00. Admission free.
Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.
GULAG History Museum
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00
- 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission
150Rbl.
State Central Museum of Contemporary
Russian History
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67
24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
getting there
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day
from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not
making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can
also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train,
which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you
there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to
Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at
one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress
train which brings you right to the centre.
Luxury Trains to
Moscow
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
capital it is worth considering taking a private train.
The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every
night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience.
After being shown to your cabin you will find your
beds have already been made up with real duvets
rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are
spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can
call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed
and they will come to you! If you want to wake up
in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the
money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For
reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at
www.megapolis-te.ru
August - September 2014
73
Moscow
The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300
- 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition.
Tretyakov Gallery
QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100
- 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU
Aeroexpress Trains
Modern Art Centres
Moscow Multimedia Art Museum (MMAM)
QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl.
Moscow Museum of Modern Art
(MMOMA)
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495
694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu
13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission from 150Rbl.
The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains
run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and
Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress
ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel
agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow,
or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of
sales outlets can be found on the company’s website,
where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.
aeroexpress.ru.
Download their free mobile app and you will be able to
purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone
with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at
the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly
from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).
74 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket
hotels
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com.
hhhhh
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow.
hhhhh
Lotte Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh
Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5,
MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.
sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh
Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention
Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh
Ivan Hostel
QC-2, Petrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com