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2. home improvement and repair
3. roofing

Sample Plans From
Woodworking4Home
Brought To You By
PatioGazebosHQ.com
Shed Plan
Check Out Woodworking4Home for 14,000 Plans
For Almost Anything You Might Want To Build
PLEASE READ THROUGH ENTIRELY
THESE PLANS ALLOW YOU TO BUILD ON
A CONCRETE SLAB, A WOODEN FLOOR
SUPPORTED BY CONCRETE PIERS, OR A WOODEN
FLOOR SUPORTED ON SKIDS SEE OUR FREE ON
LINE CONSTRUCTION GUIDE FOR MORE DETAILS
LEFT SIDE 8’- 2”
WALL AND FLOOR
HEIGHT 8’- 8”
FRONT 10’- 2”
WALL AND FLOOR
HEIGHT 8’- 8”
RIGHT SIDE 8’- 2”
WALL AND FLOOR
HEIGHT 6’- 0”
SOME E-MAIL SOFTWARE MAY
CHANGE SCALES SLIGHTLY
BACK 10’- 2”
CONTENTS
PAGE 1 ELEVATIONS
PAGE 2 CROSS SECTION 1
PAGE 3 FLOOR PLAN
PAGE 4 CONCRETE PAD
PAGE 5 SKID FOUNDATION
PAGE 6 CROSS SECTION 2
PAGE 7 RAFTER CUTTING
PAGE 8 SPECIFICATIONS
PAGE 9 MATERIAL LIST
PLUS 2 TEMPLATES
THESE PLANS ARE FOR THE
PURCHASER’S PERSONAL USE ONLY.
© 2002 Just Sheds Inc.
All rights reserved
ELEVATIONS
SCALE
¼” = 1’- 0”
DRAWN
APRIL 2004
SIZE
10’X8’
PLAN
FREE
Page 1 of 9
3/8” PLYWOOD SHEETING
SUPPORT EDGES WITH H CLIPS
2”X 4” ROOF RAFTERS 16” O. C.
METAL CAP FLASHING
4/12” ROOF PITCH
2”X 5” FASCIA BOARD
6” VINYL FASCIA
3-TAB ASPHALT
ROOF SHINGLES
VENTED SOFFIT ALL AROUND
6” UNIFORM ROOF
OVERHANG
NOTE
FILLING THE CONCRETE
BLOCKS BELOW WILL
HELP PREVENT WATER
FROM COLLECTING
AND DAMAGING THE
BLOCK DURING THE
FREEZE THAW CYCLES
FRONT
WALL
HEIGHT
8’ - 0”
5/8” TONGUE AND
GROOVE PLYWOOD
2”X 8” FLOOR JOIST 16” O.C.
USE JOIST HANGERS AS SHOWN
USE DOUBLE JOIST UNDER
SIDE WALLS
4” VINYL SIDING
# 15 ASPHALT PAPER OVERLAPPED TO SHED WATER
7/16” ASPENITE INTERIOR SHEETING
WALL SHEETS WILL SUPPORT THE
EDGES OF CEILING SHEETS WHEN
INSTALLED AS SHOWN
2”X 4” WALL STUDS 16” O.C
7/16” ASPENITE SHEETING OVER
3-PC 2”X 8” BUILT UP BEAM
3” STEEL SADDLE ANCHOR
SIDING TO COVER
CONCRETE BY ½”
FILL ANY SPACE UNDER
BEAM OR DOUBLE JOIST
WITH MORTAR
KEEP ALL WOOD AT LEAST 6 INCHES ABOVE GRADE
8” CONCRETE BLOCK FILLED
WITH CONCRETE
OR 10”X 12”
SOLID CONCRETE PIER
25”X 25”X 6” CONCRETE
FOUNDATION INSTALLED ON
UNDISTURBED SOIL BELOW
KNOWN FROST PENETRATION
CROSS
SECTION 1
1” = 1’- 0”
SIZE
10’X8’
PLAN
FREE
Page 2 of 9
TYPICAL 25”X 25”X 6” CONCRETE FOUNDATION
8” BLOCK, 3” SADDLE ANCHOR, 3-PC 2”X 8” BUILT UP BEAM
THE TOTAL WIDTH OF THE WALL FRAMING
AND THE CONCRETE PAD OR PIER BENEATH
IS 10’- 0” PLUS THE THICKNESS OF THE SIDING
2”X 8” JOIST HELD
BY JOIST HANGER
5/8” T+G
PLYWOOD
TOTAL
DEPTH
OF
FRAMING
AND THE
CONCRETE
8’- 0”
PLUS
SIDING
R.S.O.
26 1/8”X 57 ¼”
INSTALL
25 ¼” ABOVE
FLOOR
2-PC 2”X 4”
LINTEL OVER
23 3/8”
26 1/8”
R.S.O.
34 ½”X 82 ½”
2-PC 2”X 4”
LINTEL
OVER
16”
34 1/2”
ANCHOR BOLTS
IF YOU CHOOSE TO
BUILD ON A CONCRETE
PAD PLACE 1 ANCHOR
BOLT NEAR EACH END
OF THE RIGHT AND LEFT
WALLS AND 3 EACH IN
THE BACK & FRONT
WALLS
( TOTAL OF 10 BOLTS )
Whether you need a shed for growing plants, a place for youngsters to play and
build lifelong memories or just a place for the lawn equipment; we have the plans for you.
With all our styles and sizes combined, we have over 100 plans to choose from.
Whether the shed captures the charm of New England or one that utilizes
maintenance-free materials, when you need more space
think of us and visit our web site at…
www. just-sheds.com
DOUBLE
FLOOR
JOIST
20”
FLOOR
PLAN
SCALE
½” = 1’- 0”
SIZE
10’X8’
PLAN
FREE
Page 3 of 9
Some common words and phrases used in our plans and specifications m ay be unfamiliar
to you in your area. This is because of different trade names used by different
manufacturers. Suppliers in your area will know of a similar and equivalent product.
FOR MORE
CROSS
SECTION
DETAILS
SEE PAGE 2
BACK
WALL
HEIGHT
5’- 4”
1500 P.S.I. 4” CONCRETE PAD
( 9”X 9” MIN. UNDER WALLS )
ON GRAVEL COMPACTED TO SUIT
REMOVE ALL SOD AND FIBROUS
MATERIALS DOWN TO
UNDISTURBED SOIL
½” ANCHOR BOLT
PLACED AS PER
PAGE 3
SIDING TO COVER
CONCRETE BY ½”
KEEP ALL WOOD
AT LEAST 6”
ABOVE GRADE
9”
9”
12”
Choosing to build your shed on a concrete pad will change the appearance.
Compared to the wooden-floor version shown on page 1, the version shown
here uses about 8 inches of siding less than the other.
CONCRETE
PAD
1” = 1’- 0”
SIZE
10’X8’
We appreciate and
Thank you for all
Your referrals
PLAN
FREE
Page 4 of 9
NOTE
WHEN THE REQUIRED 7/16”
WALL SHEETING IS
INSTALLED OVER THE JOIST
FRAMING IT WILL BECOME
THE SIZE AS SHOWN ON THE
FLOOR PLAN
MAKE THE TOTAL DEPTH
OF FLOOR JOIST FRAMING
7 ’-11 1/8”
TYPICAL 2X6 FLOOR JOIST
INSTALL 16” O.C.
NAILED TO EACH 6X6 SKID AND
TO THE HEADER JOIST AT EACH
END USING 3, 3 ½” NAILS AS
OUTLINED IN THE
SPECIFICATIONS ITEMS
12, 13 AND 16.
BEFORE INSTALLING THE
PLYWOOD MOVE A SKID
BACKWARDS OR FORWARDS
SO THAT THE FRAME IS
COMPLETELY SQUARE
MAKE THE
TOTAL
WIDTH OF
FLOOR
JOIST
FRAMING
9 ’-11 1/8”
TYPICAL 2X6
HEADER JOIST
TYPICAL 6”X6” WOODEN
PRESSURE TREATED SKID
LAID ON LEVEL COMPACTED
GRAVEL BED
(SEE CROSS SECTION 2)
CUT SKID 3” SHORTER THAN
JOIST FRAMING. INSTALL
1 ½” IN AT THE SKIDS’ END
AND 6” IN FROM IT’S SIDE
2X6 SOLID
BRIDGING
STAGGER FOR
EASIER NAILING
TYPICAL
DOUBLE 2X6
FLOOR JOIST
AT EACH END
SKID
FOUNDATION
SCALE
3/8” = 1’- 0”
SIZE
10’X8’
PLAN
FREE
Page 5 of 9
KEEP ALL UNTREATED WOOD AT
LEAST 6 INCHES ABOVE GRADE
THE ROOF RAFTER ENDS MUST REST ON
THE WALLS THAT HAVE THE 6” X 6” SKID 6”
AWAY. NOT ON THE WALL WITH THE
DOUBLE FLOOR JOISTS UNDER THEM
2”X 4” WALL STUDS 16” O.C
7/16” ASPENITE SHEETING OVER
TYPICAL 2X6 FLOOR JOIST
5/8” PLYWOOD OVER
HORIZONTAL OR VERTICAL VINYL
SIDING AS SHOWN ON PAGE 1
TYPICAL 6”X6” WOODEN
PRESSURE TREATED SKID
LAID ON LEVEL COMPACTED
GRAVEL BED 6” IN FROM WALL
MINIMUM 6” X 18” LEVEL COMPACTED
GRAVEL BED. REMOVE ALL SOD AND
FIBROUS MATERIALS DOWN TO
UNDISTURBED SOIL
CHOOSE FROM OVER 100 PLANS. VISIT OUR WEB SITES.
www.just-sheds.com AND www.designer-shed-plans.com
TYPICAL GRADE.
GRADE SO THAT ALL WATER
DRAINS AWAY FROM SHED.
CROSS
SECTION 2
SCALE
1” = 1’- 0”
SIZE
10’X8’
PLAN
FREE
Page 6 of 9
CUT 7 RAFTERS EACH OF THEM 112 ½” LONG
THEN CUT THE BIRDS MOUTH AND
THE 19 ° ANGLES AT EACH END AS SHOWN
(19 º IS THE ANGLE USED FOR A 4/12 ROOF PITCH)
TYPICAL 2”X 5”
FASCIA BOARD FOR
THE FRONT, BACK
AND BOTH SIDES
19° ANGLE
TYPICAL
4 ½”
FRONT
AND
BACK
BIRDS MOUTH
CAREFULLY CUT OUT
4” FOR THE TOP OF THE
SUPPORTING WALLS AND
THEN CUT DOWN FOR THE SIDE
TYPICAL 2”X 4”
SUPPORTING WALL
WITH 7/16” ASPENITE
SHEETING
NOTE
WHEN CUTTING RAFTERS IT IS BEST
TO CUT 1 FIRST AND THEN PLACE IT ON
THE WALLS TO BE SURE IT FITS PROPERLY
THEN USE IT AS A TEMPLATE TO CUT THE
REMAINING RAFTERS NEEDED
RAFTER
CUTTING
LAYOUT
SCALE
3” = 1’- 0”
SIZE
10’X8’
PLAN
FREE
Page 7 of 9
THE START-UP
Once you have your plans and know where you are going to place your new shed contact your local public utilities. They
will inform you about any pipes or cables that are buried in the ground in the area where you want to build. This is usually a
free service. It can help avoid costly disruptions in the event that you cause damage to their lines.
2. Know or find out exactly where your property lines are.
3. Contact your local building department and inquire about the required distance needed for side and rear yard set backs if
any and about any building permits that you may require.
4. It’s a good building practice to take the material list that comes with our plans to your local supplier and review the in stock
availability of the materials needed.
FOUNDATIONS
5. If you choose to build your shed using a foundation that is a concrete pier style (rather than a slab-on-grade) then the
height of the pier above grade should not be any higher than 3 times the smallest width of the pier.
6. They should also be placed so they will resist any soil or water pressure that acts a gainst them such as that which may
take place when building on the side of a steep hill.
7. When building on a concrete pad (slab-on-grade) place anchor bolts no further than 7’-0” apart.
8. All concrete should be at least 1500 P.S.I. in strength. It should be reinforced with wire mesh or re-bar when these plans
require or in areas where soil conditions are poor or where earthquakes can occur. Your local building department can
advise you on this in your area.
9. Place a moisture barrier (polyethylene plastic sheet; it can be purchased in big rolls or you can use scraps of such plastic if
you like) between all concrete and wood or treat that wood with wood preservative.
10. Grade around the shed so that all water drains away from the building to protect it and the contents from water damage.
WOOD FRAMING
11. Where termites are known to exist, wood that they can reach should be treated with a recommended chemical that is toxic
to termites.
12. The long nails can be 3 1/2” common or 3 1/4”spiral “Ardox“, but must be long enough so that not less than ½ their length
penetrates into the second member.
13. Nails should be staggered so as to minimize splitting the wood and kept well in from the edges.
14. Use 2” nails to nail all sheeting, spaced 5 7/8” O.C. along the edges of the sheets a nd 11 ½” O.C. in-between.
15. Nail structural members as specifically stated on the plans and generally as required in item # 16 of the specifications.
16. Nail framing members using 3 ¼” spiral nails so that not less than 2 nails are used for the ends of each w all stud, ceiling
joist, each side and at the end of every lintel. Toe nail rafters to the ridge pole if there is one and to the top of the walls
using 3 nails at the end of each rafter. Nail the top 2X4 sill plate and/or the walls to the floor joist at 23” O.C. Nail the
double studs at openings and in the corners with nails placed 23” O.C. Use 2 nails wherever the 2X5 fascia boards meet
the ends of the rafters. Fill all nail holes with nails in the saddle anchors and joist hangers. The double floor joist a nd the
pieces of built up wood beams shall be nailed together with a double row of nails not more than 18” apart.
17. Use only tongue and grove plywood subflooring or support the edges of the sheets with solid backing underneath.
18. Install all floor and roof sheeting at right angles to the rafters and floor joists.
ATTIC VENTILATION, ROOFING AND SIDING
19 The proper attic ventilation should be obtained by using only vented soffit and the roof vents as called for on the plans.
20 Roofing and siding should be installed in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions, including the
recommended starter strips and all recommended trim.
WINDOWS AND DOORS
21 Using windows and doors other than those called for will not affect the building provided they are the same size, function
in the same way and they should have the same appearance and be of equal quality.
22 Quality caulking should be applied around all openings so as to prevent water from coming into your new shed.
OPTIONS
23 Owners choosing to add options to their sheds such as heating, plumbing and an electrical service should consult area
trades people regarding their needs.
GENERAL
24 In spite of these plans, specifications and or advice and construction guides provided by Just Sheds Inc. it becomes by
building, the owner’s sole responsibility to apply for all required permits, to build so that it is in accordance with all required
skill, standards and in a safe and skillful manner that suits the intended purpose in that area.
1.
Please Always work safely
© 2002 Just Sheds Inc.
All rights reserved
SPECIFICATIONS
PLAN
FREE
Page 8 of 9
No.
QUAN
SIZE
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
2
8
4
6
11
14
3
9
6” X 6” X 10’
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
20
9
4
9
4
24
110
11
1
1
1
12
12 lbs
12 lbs
9 lbs
300
36
4
30
40
22
44
44
6
270
2”X 6”X 16’
3”X 3”
2”X 8”X 10’
2”X 8”X 8’
2”X 8”
4’X 8’ X 5/8”
2”X 4”X 16’
2”X 4”X 14’
4’X 8’X 7/16”
2”X 5”X 12’
2”X 4”X 10’
4’X 8’X 3/8”
3/8”
Sq. ft.
Linear ft.
4’X 8’X 7/16”
3 1/4”
2”
1 1/4”
Sq. ft.
Linear ft.
¾”X 3”X 10’
Linear ft.
Linear ft.
Sq. ft.
Linear ft.
Linear ft.
Linear ft.
Sq. ft.
DESCRIPTION AND USE
NOTES
Cedar or pressure treated wood (USE ONLY FOR SKID FOUNDATION)
Solid bridging, floor and header joists (USE ONLY FOR SKID FOUNDATION)
Steel saddle anchors (or 10 anchor bolts if concrete pad is used)
3-pc built up beam at the front and back
Single and double floor joist as shown on the plans
Single joist hangers (install before plyw ood)
Tongue and groove plywood
When cut will give 1 bottom and 2 top plates for all walls plus misc. needs
1,2,3
1,2,7,3
1,2,7,3
2,7,3
7
7
1,3
When cut will give the needed studs of various lengths
Aspenite wall sheeting
Fascia boards all around
Roof rafters
Spruce plywood roof sheeting
H clips or use scrap wood to support roof sheeting edges
Asphalt roof shingles (includes starter strip)
Metal cap flashing
Andersen window “ NARROLINE” # 2046
Therma-tru door # CS210 (outswing is another option)
Locking door knob (check with door supplier regarding size, set back e tc.)
Aspenite sheeting for interior walls and ceiling
Ardox or spiral framing nails
Ardox or spiral framing nails
Roofing nails; use for shingles, asphalt paper, vinyl siding and trim
# 15 asphalt paper
Vinyl siding starter strip
Vinyl siding outside corner post
J channel
F channel (wall mounted to hold soffit material)
Vented soffit
Under sill trim; use under window and on the top edge of the vinyl fascia
6” vinyl fascia
Vinyl door and window cap
Double 4” vinyl siding
Misc. caulking and paint for the door
1,3,5
3,4
6
6
5
5
5
Pride will result when adding labor to the above.
NOTE: PLEASE READ ALL NOTES AND SPECIFICATIONS BEFORE ORDERING ANY MATERIALS OR BUILDING
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
When cut in two or to the required size one piece will yield the needed amount.
Cedar or pressure treated wood is recommended. Use cut end treatment if treated wood is used.
Grade numbers 1 and 2 spruce is the specified lumber for this project.
2”X 5” lumber is recommended because it suits the 6” vinyl fascia best.
Consider ordering a few more of these items or others as it is common to
use more because of working style, waste or mistakes.
Always confirm the size of the unit and the rough stud opening (R.S.O.)
from the supplier before ordering or building.
Delete these items and 18 sq. ft. from no. 33 if you choose to build your shed on a concrete pad.
Not knowing your site or soil conditions prevents us from estimating any of your concrete needs.
It is the owner’s responsibility to apply for all required permits and to
build with the necessary skill and in accordance with all required standards.
MATERIAL
LIST
SIZE
10’X8’
PLAN
FREE
Page 9 of 9
# 1 CUT PAPER TEMPLATE ALONG
THIS LINE TO GET THE ANGLES
MENTIONED ON THE RAFTER
CUTTING LAYOUT PAGE
(BOTTOM END)
NOTE
UNSTAPLE IF ATTACHED
ROTATE ¼ TURN TO THE LEFT
TO GET A HELPFUL AND SIMILAR
VIEW AS SHOWN ON THE
RAFTER CUTTING LAYOUT
PAGE.
FOLLOW THE
STEP-BY-STEP
INSTRUCTIONS
BY NUMBER
# 2 CUT PAPER TEMPLATE ALONG
THESE 3 SOLID LINES TO GET THE
BIRDS MOUTH MENTIONED ON THE
RAFTER CUTTING LAYOUT PAGE
# 3 FOLD ALONG THIS LINE
THEN LAY IT ON THE RAFTER’S
EDGE AND MARK THE BIRDS
MOUTH AND THE BOTTOM
CUTTING ANGLE.
USE TEMPLATE 2 OF 2 FOR
THE TOP OF THE RAFTER.
USE THIS CUT RAFTER AND/
OR RAFTERS AS A TEMPLATE
TO MARK AND THEN CUT ALL
THE OTHERS
LEGEND
RAFTER
CUTTING
TEMPLATE
SCALE
ACTUAL
SIZE
PLAN
FREE
TEMPLATE 1 OF 2
TYPICAL RAFTER SEE
RAFTER CUTTING
LAYOUT PAGE
# 1 CUT PAPER TEMPLATE ALONG
THIS LINE TO GET THE ANGLES
MENTIONED ON THE RAFTER
CUTTING LAYOUT PAGE
(TOP END)
NOTE
UNSTAPLE IF ATTACHED
ROTATE ¼ TURN TO THE RIGHT
TO GET A HELPFUL AND SIMILAR
VIEW AS SHOWN ON THE
RAFTER CUTTING LAYOUT
PAGE.
TYPICAL RAFTER SEE
RAFTER CUTTING
LAYOUT PAGE
FOLLOW THE
STEP-BY-STEP
INSTRUCTIONS
BY NUMBER
# 3 FOLD ALONG THIS LINE
THEN LAY IT ON THE RAFTER’S
EDGE AND MARK THE BIRDS
MOUTH AND THE TOP CUTTING
ANGLE AT THE LENGTH
MENTIONED ON THE RAFTER
CUTTING LAYOUT PAGE USE
TEMPLATE 1 OF 2 FOR THE
BOTTOM OF THE RAFTER.
# 2 CUT PAPER
TEMPLATE ALONG
THESE 3 SOLID LINES
TO GET THE BIRDS
MOUTH MENTIONED ON
THE RAFTER CUTTING
LAYOUT PAGE
USE THIS CUT RAFTER AND/
OR RAFTERS AS A TEMPLATE
TO MARK AND THEN CUT ALL
THE OTHERS
LEGEND
RAFTER
CUTTING
TEMPLATE
SCALE
ACTUAL
SIZE
PLAN
FREE
TEMPLATE 2 OF 2
MATERIAL LIST
Bunk Bed Plan
Check Out Woodworking4Home for 14,000 Plans
For Almost Anything You Might Want To Build
65
BUNK BEDS
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
305
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
306
For the head and foot boards
Size
Qty.
Legs
3 1/4" x 3 5/8" x 78"
1
Leg cap strips
3/16" x 3 1/4" x 78"
8
Long panels
3/8" x 9 7/8" x 24 1/2"
6
Short panels
3/8" x 9 7/8" x 17 5/8"
6
1 1/8" x 2 3/4" x 24"
4
1 1/8" x 2 3/4" x 30 3/4"
4
1 1/8" x 2 3/4" x 17"
4
1 1/8" x 2 3/4" x 23 3/4"
4
Narrow rails
1 1/8" x 2 3/4" x 33"
4
Wide rails
1 1/8" x 4 1/4" x 33"
4
Short floating tenons—hardwood
3/8" x 1" x 2 1/4"
16
Stile floating tenons—hardwood
3/8" x 1" x 1 3/4"
16
Long floating tenons—hardwood
3/8" x 1" x 3 3/4"
16
Bullnose cap strips
1 1/8" x 2 3/8" x 38 3/8"
8
Dowels
3/8" dia. x 1 1/2" fluted
40
Side rails
1 5/16" x 6 7/8" x 76 3/4"
4
Side rail support strips
1 1/8" x 1 3/4" x 76 3/4"
4
Support rail screws
#14 x 2" round head, brass
24
Support boards
1 1/8" x 3 15/16" x 40 7/8"
40
3/8" dia. x 5"*
8
hardwood, 1" dia. domed caps
8
Ladder sides
1 1/4" x 4 3/8" x 61 1/2"
2
Main ladder steps
1 1/8" x 5 1/8" x 16 1/2"
5
Safety rails
1 1/8" x 4 1/8" x 78 3/4"
4
Long ladder screws and cup washers
#10 x 3 1/2"
2
Short ladder screws and cup washers
#10 x 2 1/4"
2
3/8" dia. x 1 1/2" fluted
2
Long top stiles
Long bottom stiles
Short top stiles
Short bottom stiles
For the mattress support assembly
Bed bolts
Bed bolt caps
For the ladder and safety rails
Dowels
Start With The Panels
Since construction-grade wood needs time to dry while you’re building, I’ll lead you through
the preparation of parts in stages. Moving from one group of parts to another as you work
allows wood to cup and twist (as it inevitably will) while you still have the opportunity to do
something about it.
The panels are a prominent part of the bed, so choose and combine grain patterns with
care. This is where artistry comes in. Since the finished panels are about 3/8" thick, you can
easily get two panel parts by splitting 1 1/2" lumber down the middle, on edge. This leaves
lots of extra wood for jointing and planing operations. If you don’t have a bandsaw, rip the
panel parts no wider than 4", then slice them in half, on edge, in two passes across your
tablesaw. Splitting thick stock like this naturally reveals striking book-matched grain patterns
on matching parts. This is good stuff, so make the most of it.
Next, spend time at the workbench arranging panel parts so they look their best. Mark
the location of neighbouring pieces, then set them aside to dry for at least three or four days
before jointing and edge gluing. Thin, newly split pieces like these tend to cup as they dry,
so you’ll want to let that happen before jointing. I designed the completed panels to be less
Variations of the tudor rose are all over than 12" wide so they could be milled in any benchtop thickness planer after lamination. Set
my house. Although the spruce is
the panel parts aside for now.
strong, it proved difficult to slice
cleanly. Consider white pine or
Copyright 2004
basswood for carving
Martian Auctions
307
Bags And Bags Of Shavings
Most of the bunk bed parts are 1 1/8" thick, meaning you’ll have to spend hours working with your planer to mill the 1 1/2"-thick
boards down to size. You’ll save time if you rough-cut all stiles, rails, bullnose cap strips, side rail support strips, support boards,
safety rails and ladder parts to width first, instead of running uncut lumber through your planer, and then cutting these parts. Joint
and plane components to 1/8" thicker than final size, then let them sit for a week with a fan blowing on the stickered pile before
milling to final thickness. Keep the parts in separate groups so you can work on each kind in turn.
Laminate The Legs
The bunk bed legs are thick and long, making them the most troublesome part of the project.
The plans show how each leg has five parts: three hefty internal layers, capped by two face
strips that hide the lamination lines.
Divide the 12 leg layers you cut earlier into four groups: three pieces for each leg. The idea
is to arrange the layers so the outer face of each leg looks best. Mark relative layer locations,
then joint and plane leg layers to 1 1/4"-thick and glue them together. A few wooden hand
screws tightened across the edges of the layers will do wonders to align the parts as the main
clamps draw them together. This saves lots of jointing later.
While the leg layers are drying, cut the leg cap strips slightly wider than listed and plane to
final 3/16" thickness. When the legs are ready to come out of the clamps, joint and plane them
to final size. Glue the cap strips over the sides showing the lamination lines, using as many
clamps as needed for gap-free joints. Plane the excess edging flush with the legs, sand and
rout a chamfer along all edges. The plans show how the joint line between leg and leg cap
disappears if you cut so its edge lands on the joint line.
Head and footboard panels are
made of planks sawn in half on
edge, so there’s lots of
bookmatched grain pattern. Use
wood with growth rings
perpendicular to the panel face
Back To The Panels
Joint one face of each panel member, then joint an edge, before ripping each piece to wider-than-final width and jointing this sawn
edge. Keep all panel parts grouped, as you arranged them earlier for best appearance, while dry-fitting the panel parts. When
everything looks good, edge-glue the panels, scraping off excess glue after a few hours when it’s half-hard.
As the panels are drying, joint and plane the rails and stiles to final size, then trim to length. The plans show how the edges of
these parts require grooves to house the panel edges. These grooves also admit floating hardwood tenons that join the panel
frames. This is why the panel grooves extend around the ends of the rails. A wing-cutter router bit in a table-mounted router is the
best tool for cutting these grooves. Take one pass from each side of the rail and stile parts so the grooves are centred. Aim for a
3/8"- to 7/16"-wide groove, then plane and trim your floating tenons for a snug fit.
Dry-fit all stiles, rails and floating tenons under clamp pressure to check for tight joints,
then measure the inside dimensions of the frame (to the bottom of the grooves) to
determine the ideal panel size. Make the panels 1/16" smaller than these measurements
and plane the panels to fit nicely within the grooves. Dry-fit the stiles, rails and panels,
then assemble the frame permanently with glue. Give everything a day or two to dry, then
joint the outside edges of the frame parts to level and square them.
Mill the bullnose cap strips on a table-mounted router, then fasten them to the top and
bottom edges of the assembled panel frames using 3/8" fluted dowels. With all the parts of
this project that needed dowelling, I invested in a self-centering drilling jig to help me bore
accurate dowel holes in the panel edges and the ends of the side rails—all parts too large
to be bored on my drill press. It worked wonderfully. When the cap strips are glued to the
panel frames, run the edge of the assembly over the jointer again, taking a light cut to
level the sides for a tight fit with the legs. Install 3/8"-fluted dowels across the leg-to-panel
joints, dry-fit under clamping pressure, then join the legs and panel frames permanently.
Cleaning glue squeeze-out from the corner where the legs meet the panel frames would
be difficult without help. I used Waxilit, a glue resist that looks like skin cream. Smear
The corner of the underside of the top
some across the dry-fitted joints—when the joint is reassembled with glue the product
bunk, showing mattress support boards, prevents the squeeze-out from bonding to the surface wood. The hardened glue pops off
mattress support strip and the bottom of
with a chisel.
the headboard where it joins the leg
Refine The Legs And Safety Rails
The plans show how each leg needs counterbored holes for the bed bolts, and two mortises to house the safety rails for the top
bunk. Drilling the holes is easy (just don’t do it before you’ve read further), though the mortises demand explanation. I made mine
using a router and flush-trimming bit, guided by the shop-made plywood jig. This creates four identical round-cornered mortises in
the legs that need
to be squared
hand with
a chisel. Use these mortises as a guide to plane, rip and joint the safety
rails you
Copyright
2004 by
Martian
Auctions
308
rough-cut earlier, so they fit into the mortises sweetly. Complete the rails by sanding, trimming to final length and routing quirk beads
on all four edges. These extend to within 1 1/4" of the end of each safety rail.
Side Rails, Support Strips And Support Boards
These parts connect the head and foot boards, and support the two twin-size mattresses that
the bed is made for. Mill and trim these parts to final size, then rout quirk beads on all four
edges of the side rails, on one edge of the support strips, and along one edge of the support
boards. The plans show the details, though you’re free to use whatever profile you like.
Before you go further, think about mattress size. Although there are supposed to be
standard sizes out there, the variation from brand to brand can be considerable. It’s safest to
have your mattresses on hand, then measure them and adjust side rail hole locations in the
legs, and the side rail lengths, to suit. The dimensions and locations I used are for mattresses
that are slightly larger than printed mattress specs.
Drill holes in the legs and side rails for the bed bolts now, then glue and screw the mattress
support strips to the inside edge of the side rails. If I had to build my beds over, I’d raise the
support strips 1" higher than where I put them. That’s what’s shown in the plans. Without an
exceptionally thick mattress, the side rails press into your legs as you roll out of bed. Raising
the mattresses with the higher support strip location solves the problem .
Chamfer the top front edge of the
ladder steps for better resistance to
wear. A sharp chisel makes quick
work of angling the outer corners of
each step
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
309
Storage Shed Plan
Check Out Woodworking4Home for 14,000 Plans
For Almost Anything You Might Want To Build
2400 x 3000 (8ft x 10ft)
Storage Shed Plans
Page 1: Introduction and Contents
This detailed shed plan-set is in both Standard and metric dimensions. It is built on
skids, meaning that there are no footings or foundations and that the finished shed
is able to be moved. The side cladding is board and batten and the roof cladding is
corrugated roofing iron over plywood sheathing.
Simply go to any page listed below. The plans in the 'Plans' page can be enlarged
by clicking on, the step by step instructions also have drawings and any words or
terms used in the plan-set are explained in the 'Glossary of Terms'.
Stock sizes are nominal sizes(see glossary)
Excludes hardware such as nails and other fixing or fastening
components.
Stock Size/ Material
Used For
Amount
100x100 (4x4) Natural decayresistant lumber or treated for inground applications
Skids
6m (20ft)
150x50 (2x6) Natural decayresistant lumber or treated for inground applications
Floor Joists
26m (86ft)
20 (3/4") plywood 2400x1200 (4'x8')
sheets
Flooring
3 of
100x50(2x4) Framing Lumber
Plates; Studs; Cripple Studs; Trimmer
Studs; Headers; Noggings; Blockings;
Beam supports; Rafters
175m (575ft)
12 (1/2") plywood 2400x1200 (4'x8')
sheets
Roof Sheathing
4 of
75x50 (2x3)
Roof Purlins
20m (60ft)
150x25 (1x6) Natural decayresistant lumber or treated for
exterior use.
Barge Board and Fascia Board
14m (46ft)
Roof Underlay
Vapor and Wind Barrier
10sq M
(108sq ft)
Corrugated Roofing Iron
Roof Cladding
10sq M
(108sq ft)
Ridge Capping
Covers the apex of the roof
6.3m (21ft)
Barge Flashing
Covers the gable ends of the roof
6.5m (22ft)
Cladding Underlay
Vapor and Wind Barrier
28sq m
(300sq ft)
200x25 (1x8) Natural decayresistant lumber or treated for
exterior use
Vertical Cladding Boards
130m (426ft)
75x25 (1x3) Natural decay-resistant
lumber or treated for exterior use
Vertical Cladding Battens
150m (492ft)
760 (30") Pre-Hung Door
See NOTE 1 below
1 of
1200 (4ft) wide x 600 (2ft) high
complete window
See NOTE 2 below
1 of
Door.
Any size door can be used. Just make the trim size in the
frame (rough opening) accordingly, noting that it should be at
least 10mm (3/8") wider and 10mm (3/8") higher than the
overall size of the complete pre-hung door (which includes
door, jambs and sill).
Window.
The trim size in the frame (rough opening) should be at least
10mm (3/8") wider and 10mm (3/8") higher than the overall
size of the complete window (box size).
1.
The Floor
Cut the Floor Frame members (skids and
joists) from the 'Materials List' to the
measurements shown in the 'Skid and
Joist Outlay' plan. On level ground, make
up the Floor Frame, also as per the 'Skid
and Joist Outlay' plan.
Cover the floor with 20mm (3/4) inch
plywood, nailing a maximum of 200 (8")
apart on all joists.
Alternative flooring can be used such as
20mm (3/4") thick boards, or other
suitable sheet.
2.
The Wall Frames
Cut the Wall Frame members from the
'Materials List' to the measurements as
shown in the 'Wall Frame and Stud
Placement' and Cross Section Plans. Cut
the longest members first.
Make the Wall Frames up on even
ground, referring to the 'Wall Frame and
Stud Placement' Plan which shows the
placement of the studs from a bird's eyeview. In this particular plan, the Studs are
spaced at 600 [2ft] crs or o.c.(which
means "at centers" or "on center"). This
means the Studs are spaced apart 600
(2ft) from the center of one Stud, to the
center of the adjoining Stud (where
possible).
Studs spaced at 600 [2ft] crs/o.c. are also
placed appropriately to accommodate
standard width 1200 [4ft] Cladding or
Lining, either exterior and interior.
At the end of this document there is a
detailed account on how to make Wall
Frames.
3.
Wall Frame Nogging
Fix four rows of Noggings, evenly spaced
between all the Studs. This is best done
while the Wall Frame is still laid on the
ground. The Noggings give the exterior
vertical Boards something substantial to
be nailed to.
4.
Lift and Fix the Wall Frames in Place
Nail the Wall Frames together at the
corners so the outside edges of the
corner Studs are flush.
Ensure the Bottom Plate is straight and
that the outside edge is flush with the
edge of the floor and then nail in place.
Make the walls plumb (vertical) and
temporarily brace on the inside of the
walls.
5.
The Roof Beam
Cut and fix the two Beam Supports on top
of (and in the middle of) the front and rear
Wall Frame Top Plates. The Roof Beam
can then be cut to length and fixed in
place on top of the two Beam Supports.
Cut four end rafters as per the 'Rafter
Detail' drawing and fix in place. Plumb
and temporarily brace.
6.
7.
The Roof Rafters
Cut the remaining eight intermediate
rafters (see 'Rafter Detail' drawing) and fix
in place, four each side. Spacings are
shown in 'The Roof Plan'.
Roof Noggings
Measure and cut four rows of Noggings
that will fit between the Rafters. Place the
rows each side of the Side Wall's top
plates (see Picture). This is so the
exterior Boards and Battens will have a
straight edge at the top to butt into.
The same applies to any likely interior
lining, should you choose to use it.
8.
Roof Sheathing
Cover the floor with 12mm (1/2) inch
plywood, nailing a maximum of 200 (8")
apart on all Rafters. Run the sheets from
the Roof Beam to the ends of the Rafters.
The sheets will need trimming.
All joins running parallel with the Rafters,
must be on a Rafter. Any necessary join
running parallel with the Roof Beam, must
be under a Purlin.
9.
The Purlins
Nail three rows of Purlins to each plane
(side) of the roof, overhanging each side
of the gables by 25mm (1") or the
thickness of the exterior vertical Boards.
Fix the top row about 75 (3") down from
the apex (this measurement will depend
upon the width of the Ridge Capping, as
the Ridge Capping is fixed to the top
purlin), the bottom row vertically flush with
the end of the Rafter and another row in
the middle.
Nail the ends of the Roof Sheathing (from
the underside) to the bottom purlins.
10.
Fascia, Barge and Roof Underlay
Nail the Barge Board to the end of the Purlins up along each rake of
the gable and flush with the top of the Purlins.
Join the Barge Boards at the apex (vertical cut) and cut the other
(lower) end vertically, 175mm (6") past the rafter (lower) ends.
Cut and fix the fascia Board in between the Barge Boards and to the
Rafter ends. The top edge of the Fascia Board should be flush with
the top of the bottom Purlin.
Cover the roof with a self-supporting Underlay prior to the
Corrugated Roofing Iron going on.
11.
The Roof
Fix the Roofing Iron to the Purlins with appropriate roofing nails/screws
Fix to the top and bottom Purlins at every second corrugation and fix to
the intermediate Purlins at every 3rd or 4th corrugation. Fix through the
high side of the corrugation.
Overhang the roofing approx 65 (2 1/2") past the Fascia Board or 50
(2") past the back of the gutter.
12.
Ridge Capping and Barge Flashing
Standard Ridge Capping is about
130 (5") each side of the apex, but
can vary and any size can be made
to order. Have the Ridge Flashing in
mind when positioning the top Purlin.
Fix to the Purlin at every second
corrugation.
The Barge Flashing goes under the
Ridge Capping at the top. Fix to each
purlin (through two corrugations) and
also to the barge board.
13.
14.
Cladding Underlay
A Cladding Underlay should envelop
the exterior walls prior to the cladding
being fixed.
Exterior Vertical Boards
Commence fixing the Boards to the
Wall Frames, beginning from one
corner. Cut the Boards long enough
so that they will touch the underside
of the Rafter at the top and run at
least 50mm (2") below the floor.
Nail the Boards to the Noggings with
nails approximately 75mm (3") apart
(including the nail that will be going
through the Batten). Leave a gap
between each board.
15.
The Battens
Fix the Battens 75x25 (1x3) over
each join. Preferably, the battens
should have a groove each side of
the join to stop water being drawn up
by capillary action.
Nail on the center line of the Batten,
through the gap between the Boards
and into the Noggings. Overlap on
corners (see picture).
16.
Done!
Install the Door, install the Window
and you're done!
Glossary of terms used in this plan
ACTUAL SIZE: The finished
(dressed) size as opposed to
the nominal size of a piece of
wood.
BARGE BOARD: Exterior
visible flat trim board that
follows the rake of the roof.
BATTENS: Narrow board
used to cover cladding joins or
used for decorative purposes.
BEAM: A supporting member.
BIRD'S MOUTH: The notch in
a rafter that rests on the top
plate of a wall.
BOARD: A piece of sawn, or
dressed timber of greater
width than thickness. Usually
19 (3/4") to 38 (1 1/2") thick
and 75 (3") or more wide.
BOTTOM PLATE: Wall plate,
sole plate; The bottom
horizontal framing member of
the wall.
BRACE: To make rigid.
BUILDING LINE: The outline
of a building.
CENTERS: Crs; O.C; Term
used for spacing; The
measurement of spacing for
studs, rafters, and joists in a
building from the center of one
member to the center of the
next.
CLADDING UNDERLAY: A
building paper that envelops
the exterior walls or roof frame
prior to the cladding being
fixed. Reduces air movement
and helps avoid the risk of
water ingress.
CLADDING: The exterior
surface of a building.
CLEAT: A short horizontal
member that ties opposing
rafters together immediately
below the ridge board.
CRIPPLE STUD: Short studs
placed between the header /
lintel and a top plate or
between a sill and bottom
plate.
CRS: See CENTERS.
DIMENSIONS: Any of the
three linear measurements,
length, breadth and depth.
DRESSED: Relating to timber;
Planed; Smooth; even
surface; gauged.
DWANG: Nogging; A short
piece of timber set between
two studs, joists, rafters or
purlins to keep them rigid.
ELEVATION: Side view of a
building.
FASCIA: Exterior horizontal
visible flat front trim board that
caps the rafter tail ends.
FLASHING: Any piece of material,
usually metal or plastic, installed to
prevent water from penetrating the
structure.
FLUSH: Being even with.
GABLE: The roof ends and walls that
form an inverted "V".
GAUGED: See DRESSED.
HEADER: Lintel; A beam placed
perpendicular to wall studs above
doors, windows or other openings, to
carry the weight of structural loads.
LINTEL: Header; A beam placed
perpendicular to wall studs above
doors, windows or other openings to
carry the weight of structural loads.
LONGITUDINAL: Running the length
of the building.
LUMBER: Any of the framing wood.
MEMBER: Piece of timber that is part
of a frame or structure.
NAIL PLATE: Gang nail plate; Metal
plate with rows of sharp points that
are hammered into butt-jointed
timber to secure the join.
NOGGING: Dwang; A short piece of
timber set between two studs, joists,
rafters or purlins to keep them rigid.
NOMINAL SIZE: The rough-sawn
size of a piece of lumber. Before the
lumber is planed or dressed. The
nominal size is usually greater than
the actual dimension. e.g. 100x50 (2
x 4) actually equals 90x45 (1 1/2" x 3
1/2").
O.C.: On center; (See CENTERS)
ON CENTER (O.C.) Crs, centers.
The term used to define the
measured spacing between studs,
joists, rafters, etc. O.C.
measurements are taken from the
center of one member to the center
of the adjoining member.
PARALLEL: Being of equal distance
from each other at all points.
PLATE: The top or bottom horizontal
framing member of the wall
PLUMB: Vertical; Upright.
PLYWOOD: A piece of wood made
of three or more layers of wood
veneer laminated together with glue.
PURLIN: Timber used to support
roofing sheets. Usually fixed on top
of rafters.
RAFTER: Parallel members of a roof
that support battens/purlins and
roofing materials.
RECTANGLE: Four-sided figure with
four right angles.
ROOFING IRON: Corrugated metal
sheet used to clad roof.
ROOFING UNDERLAY: A building
paper that covers roof frame prior to
the cladding being fixed. Reduces air
movement and helps avoid the risk of
water ingress.
ROUGH OPENING: Trim size; The
framed-in opening, slightly larger than
the actual window/door, that replaces
wall studs to support the structure and
accommodate a window/door.
SAWN: Rough sawn; Not gauged,
planed or dressed.
SHEATHING: A material used as a
backing to cladding.
SIDING: Cladding; Exterior wall
cladding.
SILL: Framing member that forms the
bottom edge of the window opening or
external door.
SKID: A solid piece of timber that fits
under a building in place of a footings
or foundation making the building able
to be moved.
SOLE PLATE: wall plate, bottom
plate; The bottom horizontal framing
member of the wall.
STUD: A 100x50 (2x4) vertical
framing member used to construct
walls.
TOP PLATE: The top horizontal
framing member of the wall.
TRIMMER: Under stud; Framing
member that is cut to fit between the
bottom PLATE and the HEADER.
UNDERLAY: A building paper that
envelops the exterior walls or roof
frame prior to the cladding being fixed.
Reduces air movement and helps
avoid the risk of water ingress.
UNDER STUD: TRIMMER; Framing
member that is cut to fit between the
bottom PLATE and the HEADER.
VERTICAL: See PLUMB.
WALL CLADDING: The exterior
surface of a wall.
WALL PLATE: wall plate, sole plate
plate; The bottom horizontal framing
member of the wall.
How to make a Wall Frame
Wall Framing Page one
Relevant to lightweight single story buildings, garages, sleep-outs, sheds etc.
1.
Identifying the members:
Wall Framing, excepting headers, is usually of 100x50 (2x4) stock, for perimeter or bearing
walls. Internal non-load bearing walls can be of 75x50 (3x2) stock.
Partly cut underside of Bottom Plate at each side of doorway before standing the wall frame
up. This is to enable the Bottom Plate in the doorway to be cut out (from the top side) when
the Wall Frame has been squared, straightened and fixed in place.
BLOCKING: Short nogging. Block to separate two studs.
BOTTOM PLATE: Wall plate, sole plate; The bottom horizontal framing member of the wall
CRIPPLE STUD: Short studs placed between the header / lintel and a top plate or between a
sill and bottom plate.
HEADER: Lintel; A beam placed perpendicular to wall studs above doors, windows or other
openings, to carry the weight of structural loads. The Header is usually two 50 (2") thick
pieces of lumber nailed together to form one 100 (4") thick piece. The width of the Header
depends on the required span.
NOGGING: Dwang; A short piece of timber set between two studs, joists, rafters or purlins to
keep them rigid.
ROUGH OPENING: Trim size; The framed-in opening, slightly larger than the actual
window/door, that replaces wall studs to support the structure and accommodate a
window/door.
STUD: A 100x50 (2x4) vertical framing member used to construct walls.
TOP PLATE: The top horizontal framing member of the wall.
TRIMMER: Under stud; Framing member that is cut to fit between the bottom PLATE and the
HEADER
.
2.
Marking the Top and Bottom Plates for Studs:
First of all, cut all the Wall Plates in place, top and bottom and place on the floor or surface where
they are intended to go, just to make sure that they all fit according to plan.
Take the top and bottom Wall Plates of one wall, temporary nail or clamp together and place on a
couple of saw stools for marking Stud and Trimmer Stud positions.
The overlapping Wall Frame has a double Stud at the overlap end separated by blocking pieces that
are usually the same thickness as the Studs.
3.
Placing and fixing the Studs:
Lay and fix the Studs in place between the Top and Bottom Plates. If the Studs are not straight, lay
with the bow upwards.
The length of the Stud should be the required ceiling height less the thickness of the Top and Bottom
Plates as well as the thickness of the ceiling lining as well as a bit to play with, say 10mm (3/8").
4.
Placing and fixing the Noggings:
Fix the Noggings and Blocking in place between the Studs. At least one row of Noggings can help
minimize twisting and warping.
5.
6.
Placing and fixing the Trimmer Studs and Headers:
Lay and fix the Trimmer Studs and Headers in place. The Header is usually two 50 (2") thick pieces of
lumber nailed together to form one 100 (4") thick piece. The width of the Header depends on the
required span.
The width and height of the Trim size (Rough opening) should be slightly larger than the actual
window or door finished frame size, by at least 10mm (3/8") .
Placing and fixing the Cripple Studs:
Just the Cripple Studs to go, which are the short Studs between the Header / Lintel and a Top Plate
or between the sill and Bottom Plate.
The Wall Frame is now ready to be squared and lifted into place. The Wall Frame is square when the
Wall Plates are straight and the distance between the opposing diagonals are equal.
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