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2. chemicals industry
3. dyes and pigments

HAIR COLOURING SYSTEM
HAIR COLOURING SYSTEM
INDEX:
KEY INGREDIENTS
3
TECHNICAL MANUAL/Startpage
4
THE CLASSIFICATION METHOD
5
PRIMARY AND SECONDARY COLOURS/COLOUR WHEELS
6
EUMELANIN/PHAEOMELANIN
7
CLIENT CONSULTATION/TECHNICAL DIAGNOSIS
8
COLOUR PREPARATIONS
10
PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF REF COLOURS
12
GREY COVERAGE
15
RE-PIGMENTATION
16
COLOUR CORRECTORS
18
CORRECTOR NEUTRAL
19
BLEACHING POWDER
20
AFTERCARE
22
REF SILVER SHAMPOO
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From the time of ancient Egyptian women until today, women have always sought ways
to enhance their natural beauty. We have evolved from Henna, herbs and spices to the
combination of nature and 21st Century science to develop hair colour that performs to
the highest standards and expectations of today’s modern women.
REF Hair Colour limits the amount of chemicals used in the production of it’s products
adding natural ingredients to enhance condition, shine and durability to our colouring
system.
ALOE VERA
LOW AMMONIA
ANTI AGING
Long known for it’s
healing and moisturizing
properties, Aloe also
brings antibacterial and
soothing ingredients to
the scalp during the
process.
With less than 2%
average Ammonia
content, REF ensures
proper lift and deposit
ratios at any level of
colour choice.
Contains “Thermus
thermophilus”, an
effective, heat activated
antioxidant that protects the hair and scalp
from both UV-A and
UV-B rays.
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HAIR COLOURING SYSTEM
TECHNICAL MANUAL
4
THE CLASSIFICATION METHOD
REF Hair Colour System refers to the International numbering system:
Number before the decimal
First number after the decimal
Second number after the decimal
= Hair colour level
= Main Reflex *(tone)
= Secondary Reflex *(tone)
This is an example of the colour influence breakdown:
7.0
100% Natural Level Olive Green based colour.
7.00 100% Natural level 7 with heavier pigment load for Grey coverage.
7.3
50% Natural level 7, 50% Gold influence.
7.31 50% Natural level 7, 30% Gold influence, 20% Ash influence
7.036 70%Natural level 7, 20% Gold influence, 10 Red influence
5.66 25% Natural level 5, 75 % Red influence
* Reflex= REF interpretation of reflection
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
.0
.00
.1
.2
.3
.4
.5
.6
.7
.9
Black
Extra Dark Brown
Dark Brown
Brown
Light Brown
Dark Blonde
Blonde
Light Blonde
Very Light Blonde
Extra Light Blonde
Special High Lift
Natural
Intense natural
Ash
Pearl
Golden
Copper
Red Brown
Red
Violet
Green
To identify the type of tone the
numbering system defining the
colour level is followed by a
second number separated by a
dot.
Hair color levels
Hair colour levels are classified
using the reference scale:
(From the darkest to the lightest
shade)
5
Example 5.56
5 = Level
5 = primary tone of red/brown
6 = secondary tone of red
PRIMARY AND SECONDARY COLORS
The three primary colors are:
REF COLOUR WHEELS
The two Colour Wheels represent the basic colourimetry. The placement of the colours
helps you define the primary, secondary and tertiary colours and to identify complementary colours. For example, the colour purple and yellow are on the opposite sides
of the wheel which shows that they are each others complementary colours. Blended
in equal parts, they neutralise the reflection.
This Wheel shows the nuances that
has a higher quantity of basic brown
pigment*, for a total grey coverage.
The .00 and.003 are double pigmented
colours which gives a darker result and
is placed accordingly.
This Wheel shows the nuances that
has a higher amount of reflections and
gives a vibrant, intense colour result.
* When mixing three primary colours you obtain brown. The natural colours have a variable intensity of brown according to the level.
This is to ensure a perfect grey coverage.
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EUMELANIN
Eumelanin is large in structure and will completely dissolve during the bleaching process. It is found as the predominant pigment in people of Nordic and Asian origin. Its
blue/violet colour is a direct compliment to the orange/yellow pigment in phaeomelanin.
This explains the wide variety of naturally occurring hair colours all over the world.
Eumelanin is easy to lift during blonding processes and is the first pigments to release
when lightening. This pigment is also responsible for the level of darkness in all natural
hair colour depending upon its concentration level.
PHEOMELANIN
Pheomelanin is small in structure and never fully releases from hair. Very heavily present in African and Hispanic origin people, can not be lifted past underlying pigment of
level 7. In Caucasian people may be lifted to underlying pigment of level 9 but will leave
yellow residue. Pheomelanin is always found in any colour that is level 7 or darker but
the concentration will depend on ethnic origin. If unsure ask client and also check eyecolour for gold flecks, a sign that pheomelanin is present in high concentration. High lift
blonding with a colour application should only be a highlighting technique with this scenario. Only all over bleaching will reach the desired level of lift to achieve a desired result. In levels 3-6 our High lifts will give beautiful caramel results due to neutralizing affects.
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CLIENT CONSULTATION
Establishing desired result.
Before proceeding with technical diagnosis, a client consultation must be carried out.
This step is essentials for ensuring the success of any colour service.
The following are examples of subjects to be discussed with every client requiring colour
treatment:




Using the swatches in the colour chart as a visual to confirm what the client wants
as a final result, is a good means of clarifying language and connecting it to visual
experience, what idea does the client have of the final result?
Determine whether the result can be achieved
(given the existing colour level condition of the hair)
Check whether the client intends to keep the colour for some time.
Carry out a preliminary sensitive test.
TECHNICAL DIGANOSIS
Technical diagnosis of the hair’s condition is fundamental for the success of any colour
treatment. A good diagnosis will provide all the information required for a good colour
treatment.
1.
Hair Type:
Coarse ( choose 1/2 level darker)
Medium ( use your target or desired target shade)
Fine ( choose one level lighter)
2.
Natural hair colour level and tone:
And the level and tone of any existing colour.
(Use the REF Colour Chart as your reference/guide)
3.
Percentage of grey hair.
Choose the most suitable oxidizing cream developer and REF Colour to obtain an
even final colour.
Identify the most suitable processing time (accounting for the room temperature)
4.
The level and tone of your desired colour/target shade:
(Use the shade selection guide and the REF Colour Chart as your reference/guide
to accurately determine the level and tone)
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TECHNICAL DATA SHEET
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COLOUR PREPARATIONS
All colour systems are designed to accomplish four major principles of colour results:




Grey coverage
Lightening
Darkening
Tonality change
REF HAIR COLOURING CREAM




Covers up to 100% grey
Lightening up to 4 levels with proper formulation
Dedicated Developers to ensure maximum desired results
30 minute processing time, 40 for resistant hair and up to 50 minuteds for highlift
blondes
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MIXING RATIO

The mixing ratio is 1 part colour cream to 1,5 parts developer

Example: 50gr of REF colour (1/2 tube) + 75gr developer.

For special high lift colours the mixing ratio is one part colour cream to 2,5 parts
developer.

Example: 30gr of special high lift colours + 75gr of developer

The mixture obtained changes colour after a few minutes. The apparent colour of
the cream, for example purple for copper tones, will not affect the final colour.

The composition of the colorants also allows you to see exactly where the colour
has been applied.
MIXING RATIOS
REF COLOUR CREAM
REF DEVELOPER
100 gr
150gr
75gr
112gr
50gr
75gr
20gr
30gr
For every 10gr of REF Colour Cream mix with 15gr REF Developer
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PREPARATION AND APPLICATION OF REF COLORS

REF colours are a soft, fluid cream easily dispensed from the tube.

On mixing with the developer, it transform into a gel cream, releasing colouring and
conditioning substances into the hair

It should be mixed in a plastic bowl, bottle or shaker, mixing thoroughly to obtain a
smooth cream. Don’t use metal objects (bowl, brush, whisk) in the mixing process.

The use of electric scales is recommended to guarantee a correct and easy-torepeat formulation and mixing ratio, ensuring that the client will always have the
same perfect colour.
REF Cream Developer:
REF colours are designed to work with REF. dedicated
Developers available in 10, 20, 30 and 40 volume. Choice
of developer will depend upon amount of lift or deposit
required for required process.

10 Volume / 3%: Level on level colour, darker colouring or toning. 10 Volume delivers 100% deposit
and up to 1 level of lift.

20 Volume / 6%: Grey coverage, and up to 2 levels
of lightening. 20 volume delivers 80% deposit and
up to 2 Levels of lift.

30 Volume / 9%: High lift blonding or lifting action.
30 Volume delivers 60% deposit and up to 3 Levels
of lift.

40 Volume / 12%: Ultra high lift blonding, maximum
lifting action. 40 Volume delivers 40% deposit and
up to 4 levels of lift.
All developers may be mixed in equal ratios to achieve
between volumes, e.g. 30 ml of 20 vol + 30 ml of 30 vol =
25 vol.
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APPLICATION

Apply to unwashed dry hair under normal circumstances. If hair is exceptionally
dirty, hair may be washed and towel dried before application.

Application is quicker, more accurate and more economical thanks to the special
cream-gel cosmetic formula designed to make the product adhere to the cuticle
allowing the brush to slide down the whole length of the hair shaft.
Hair colour level
Mixing Ratio
REF Cream
Developer
Processing time
Same level or darker
1:11/2
10 vol.(3%)
30 min
1-2 steps lighter or grey
coverage
1:11/2
20 vol. (6%)
30-45 min
3 steps lighter
1:11/2
30 vol (9%)
30-35 min
4 steps lighter
1:11/2
40 vol (12%)
35-40 min
4-5 steps with special
high lifts
1:21/2
40 vol. (12%)/30 vol (9%)
45-50 min
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APPLICATION
VIRGIN HAIR APPLICATION (lightening)

A preliminary sensitivity test is recommended.


The use of scales is recommended for greater accuracy and perfect reformulation.
Apply to dry, unwashed hair.
Step 1

Apply the defined colour mixture to the lengths and ends, processing time 20
minutes.
Step 2

Prepare the desired mixture again and apply it to the roots, processing time 20-25
minutes.

Total processing time 40-45 minutes.
RE-TOUCH OR RE-GROWTH (coloured hair)
Step 1

Apply part of the chosen mixture to the re-growth; the processing time must be
appropriate for the diagnosis carried out (5-15 minutes)
Step 2

Distribute the remain of the product on the lengths and ends.

Complete the processing time.

Total processing time 30-40 minutes.

This type of application refreshes the colour throughout the mid lengths and ends
leaving the hair soft and shiny.

N.B. if the re-growth is more that 5 cm follow the instructions for the first application.
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GREY COVERAGE
REF colours have been formulated for level to level results on 70% grey hair
Desired result:
Use:
For a percentage of less than 50% it’s best to use a
lighter shade. For example: to obtain a 7 use a 8.
From 50% to 70% apply shade on shade for example;
To obtain a 7 use a 7.
Over 70% white hair, use a darker shade, for example;
to obtain a 7 use a 6.
X.00 (Intense naturals) contains more pigments and is designed to provide better grey
coverage on resistant hair that has over 50% white.
PRE– PIGMENTING RESISTANT AREAS
White hair around the hairline and temples can be more resistant to cover. In these instances pre—pigmenting these areas will prove to enhance coverage and desired results.
ALWAYS PRE– PIGMENT WITH A COLOUR TWO LEVELS LIGHTER THAN DESIRED LEVEL,
WITH GOLD INFLUENCE.
Example: Pre-pigment front section with 8.3

Natural hair colour dark blonde(6)

Front section of grey hair 80-100%

Desired result dark blonde golden (6.3)
Process:
Step 1—Pre-pigmentation

Apply the pure colour cream, (app. 5-20gr) to the area with the highest concentration of grey hair.
Step 2—Coloring


Apply the chosen colour (6.3) mixed with developer at 20 vol directly on top of the
pre-pigmentation.
In this case pre-pigmentation gives grey hair a quantity of coloured pigments that
will then be completed by the normal application of colour resulting in perfect coverage of grey hair.
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RE-PIGMENTATION
When hair is lightened, underlying pigments are removed to create blonde tones. This
technique involves replacing the missing underlying pigments that support the colour at
the level to which you wish to colour.

Warm tones must always be used to replenish the underlying missing tone (colours
with Golden .3, Copper .4 or Red .6 tones)
WHEN TO RE-PIGMENT?
The technique of re-pigmentation is used when you wish to:



Darken previously coloured or highlighted hair by two or more levels.
RE-colour highly stressed hair.
(for example excessively lightened with highlights or de-colourized).
Hair with these characteristics will only absorb cool tones due to molecular size of
colour.
Replacing missing warm pigments ensures proper tonality of finished colourization.
HOW TO RE-PIGMENT?


Previously lightened hair lacks warm pigments.
These tones must be restored to ensure that the color is absorbed evenly and
therefore preventing it from taking on dull tones or too much ash (choose the REF
color in a golden tone (x.3), copper (x.4) or golden copper (x.34)). This colour
should always be one that is two levels lighter (than desired result) with warm
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EXAMPLE RE-PIGMENTATION
The proper colour for each level must be achieved by combining the following colours
for the appropriate levels:
LEVEL
MIXTURE
1-3
1 part 4.3 + 2 parts 6.4
4
1 part 6.3 + 1 part 6.4
5
2 parts 7.43 + 1 part 8.3
6
2 parts 8.3 + 1 part 7.43
7
2 parts 9.3 + 1 part 9.43
8
1 part 10.0 + 1 part 9.3
9
2 parts 10.0 + 1 part 9.3

All of these formulas should be applied with equal parts 10 volume developer and
equal parts water. Example: 30 gr colour + 30 gr 10 vol + 30 gr water

This mixture can be applied to all decolourized hair at the same time and processed for 20 minutes. Rinsed thoroughly and towel dried. Apply chosen REF. colour with 10 vol Developer.
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COLOUR CORRECTORS
LEVEL
Corrector calculated
for 50 g
12
Silver only max 15g
10
1.0gr
9
2.0gr
8
3.0gr
7
4.0gr
6
5.0gr
5
6.0gr
4
7.0gr
3
8.0gr
2
9.0gr
Colour Correction or adding intensity.
REF colour corrector are pure colour tones,
used to add extra tonal intensity to any REF
colour or correct the tone. The lighter the base
shade, the less mix is required
E.g.;

Desired result: 7.46 with more red
pigments. Mix 50gr 7.46 + 4,0 gr Red
corrector + 81gr 10 vol(3% Peroxide).

Desired result: Special high lift pearl ash.
To obtain a cooler result, mix 50 gr 12.21
+ 5-15gr silver corrector depending on
start level) + 130-140gr 40vol/12%
PURE APPLICATION
1

To intensify strands or sections of the
hair, REF colour corrector can be used
purely with cream developer to give exceptional, brilliant color results. (apply to
pre-bleached hair)

Mix 1 part REF colour corrector to 1:5
parts cream developer
10.0gr
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CORRECTOR NEUTRAL
This colouring product allows colour stylist to obtain highly satisfying results.

Used in 20% amounts of the formula neutral will lighten any colour by one level,
leaving the colour clearer and more brilliant.

Example: 40gr 7.43 +10gr Neutral corrector + 75gr developer cream 10 vol or 20
vol .
Result: a lighter and more luminous copper/golden blonde.


Mix neutral with 30-40 vol developer cream. A lightening cream is obtained that
can be applied to both natural and coloured hair and is useful for obtaining mild
lightening or very natural looking high lights. Expect 2 to 3 levels of lift depending
upon application used.

This mixture may be used over the colour application to achieve a beautiful natural
highlighted effect.

Used in special cases it can resolve various problems related to colour evenness.

Example: client with 70% of grey hair at the front and 20% at the back. By applying, for example a 7.0, a lighter colour will be obtained at the front and a darker one
at the back.

Solution: apply a 7.0 to the part with the highest concentration of grey hair, add
10gr of neutral and 15gr of developer to the remaining mixture and apply it to the
part with the lowest concentration of grey hair.

Result: a more even colour will be obtained.
19
REF BLEACHING POWDER
REF Bleaching Powder is a high performance, dust free, blue pigment powder,
suitable for all professional lightening techniques.

Use decolourizer for full head application or any highlighting techniques.

Mixing ratio: 1:2 ( 1 part Bleaching Powder to 2 parts developer 10,20,30 or 40 vol

Choose the volume of developer according to the level of lift you wish to achieve.

20 volume is the highest developer recommended for use directly on the scalp.

Development time is between 20-50 minutes, depending on the hair color, level of
lift, hair condition, technique, strength of developer and the quantity of developer
used.

Ensure to constantly check the progress of the lifting at regular intervals (5 minutes)

When the target of lift is achieved, rinse off thoroughly with warm water and gently
shampoo the hair.
20
REF BLEACHING POWDER

Do not apply to the scalp if there are any cuts, abrasions or signs of irritation.

Should be mixed in a non-metallic bowl with REF Cream Developer

Do not use wire whisk to mix powder and developer.

Do not mix the product in a confined space.

To protect the scalp at full head application, apply the bleach to unwashed hair,
this provides protection through the scalps natural sebum.

At full head application begin the application where the hair is darkest and apply at
the hairline and nape area last.

REF Bleaching Powder can be used for decolourization, mix 1 Part powder to 2
parts Cream Developer 10 or 20 vol.

Application should begin 3 cm off scalp and proceed to midshaft and ends. Once
processed, scalp application should be applied checking every 5 minutes. Rinse off
thoroughly with warm water and gently shampoo the hair.
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REF SILVER SHAMPOO/343

Is a creamy shampoo with violet and blue
pigments designed to neutralize unwanted
yellow or brassy tones from lightened,
natural or sun bleached hair.

Adds a hint of silver to grey hair, removing
yellow tones that can develop from protein
keratinizing.

Use in damp hair and leave up to 5
minutes, rinse well.

Can be used twice a week.

Finish off with Colour Conditioner.
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AFTERCARE

After the development time, emulsify and rinse the colour
off with warm water.

Shampoo hair with REF colour shampoo until all color is
washed out.

Treat hair with REF colour conditioner or
colour treatment for optimal colour care.
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HairCare of Sweden AB, Östermalmstorg 5,
114 42 Stockholm/SWEDEN
www.referencehaircare.com
[email protected]
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