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LURE BABY™
“Junior,” “Standard” and “Custom”
Personal Drag Lure Coursing Machines
OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL
Congratulations on your new Lure Baby! You have
purchased the highest quality drag machine on the market and it will give you and your dog years of fun. This
manual covers all three Lure Baby machines and will assist you in taking care of your equipment.
Custom
Standard
Junior
www.wickedcoursing.com
619-741-9940
All information and drawings in this manual are protected by Copyright. Patent
Pending 2007-2014. Lure Baby and Wicked Coursing are registered trademarks™. All rights reserved.
OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Pg.
SECTION I:
3
4-5
6
7-8
9
10-11
12
13
13-14
14-15
16
17-20
Contents
General Maintenance Tips
The Components (battery, motor, spool)
The Leveler
Pulleys & Lures,
Line and Swivels
Working with tangles and line breaks
Re-spooling the line
Disassembly, Warranty
Operation
Safety Considerations
Angles
Field Tips & Attaching the Lure
SECTION II:
21-26
Sample Course Layouts & Instructions
27
Contact Information
As always, if you have any questions at all, to order
more pulleys or to find out about our reversible machines, or
other updates, please call Pat at Wicked Coursing.
The phone number is 619-741-9940 PST. We
route the phone to my home office when no one’s at the
shop so please don’t call in the middle of the night or very
early in the morning! Between the hours of 9:00 a.m. and
6:00 p.m. will work just fine. You can reach me by email,
too, at [email protected].
http://wickedcoursing.com
Exceptional Portable Lure Coursing
Equipment for You and Your Dog
Each consumer is responsible for determining the suitability of these
products for their individual situation. Consumer accepts all responsibility
by purchasing and using these products.
2
27
Please remember that the sharper the angle, the
more difficult it will be for your dog to make that turn. You
really don’t want to crash your dog or have her come in with
broken or dislocated knees, toes, or worse! So, the best
way to avoid all of that is:
You’ll notice that the angles are a little sharper than
90° and the distance between pulleys is shorter than the
180’ we normally recommend. I’ve put in some approximate measurements that you can use. They total 316
yards so it’s close to how you’ll really set up this field. This
is an ADVANCED course layout that should NOT be used
until you have plenty of experience laying out and using the
other two courses in this manual.
SECTION I
Congratulations on your Lure Baby™! This precision
machine has been shipped to you with packing pieces
that must be removed prior to running, so please CAREFULLY remove all paper, cardboard and/or foam inside
the case. Please note that the quick-release battery connections have been left disconnected and taped down
for shipping. Simply remove the tape, plug them together (Fig.1 below) and you’ll be ready to run!
Fig.1 Properly connected and with all
packing materials
removed
(1) Make sure there is plenty of room for the dog to
overshoot the turn;
(2) Keep the lure in front of the dog at an even pace
in the straightaways and then speed it up into the
turn. If you race the lure around the turn, your
dog will see the turn coming in advance and will
be able to adjust her run accordingly. Especially
with a very fast dog, if you don’t get the lure
around the pulley far enough in advance, your
dog will overshoot the turn and could run into
something or twist a toe trying to follow the lure.
(3) Remember that if your dog is really fast, you’ll
want to give the lure a bit of a head start, say
about 60’ (L1).
This course will get your dog in great shape and increase her coordination and stamina. Remember, a dog
that has worked hard and is tired is a happy dog!
26
GENERAL MAINTENANCE TIPS
Whichever model you’ve purchased, your machine is
very easy to care for and will provide you with years of fun if
you take care of it. Here’s how:
1. NEVER run the line over the top of edge the case - it must
go through the grommet and/or leveler (depending on model)
2. Do not get water inside the case
a. If you’re going to run the line through dewey grass,
place a sponge in front of the grommet and run the line
through it. Make a vertical cut halfway through the sponge so
the line runs through the cut and the sponge will soak up the
water before it can enter the case.
3. Never run the lure and swivel all the way into the case, as
you will break the swivel and damage the leveler components. Step on the line if it’s coming in too fast
4. Always disconnect the battery when your machine is not
on the field
5. If you need to clean the inside of your machine, use a
computer keyboard blower
6. Never drop your machine; store it in a cool dry location
3
THE BATTERY.
1.The Lure Baby Junior contains an 5Ah sealed 12-volt
battery: you should get 4 hours run time on one charge.
2. The Lure Baby Standard contains an 18Ah sealed 12volt battery should provide 70+ runs on one charge.
3. The Lure Baby Custom contains a 12-volt, 350CCA rechargeable battery that will provide about 1 hour run time
unless you have it on a charger and plugged into an outlet.
COURSE LAYOUT NO. 3 - ADVANCED
P
150’
75’
P
P
P
CHARGING THE BATTERY.
Both the Lure Baby Junior and the Standard have a
DC charge port built into the case for easy charging; both
come with the correct charger. The Lure Baby Custom has
a much bigger battery that requires an automotive charger
so we do not supply that. You should charge the battery
when it starts to lag; use only the recommended battery
charger that comes with your machine. You can plug the
charger into the DC port located on the front of the machine
(Fig. 2), the other end into a wall socket, and leave it overnight without harming the battery, as it has a float mechanism that will not allow the battery to be overcharged. Plug it
in and leave it; it’ll be ready to run when you are!
100’
150’
P
100’
150’
75’
P
P
150’
Slow down
here
L1
Stop
here
Fig. 2
DC power
port located
on the outside
of the case
Drawing not to scale
THE MOTOR.
Depending on which model Lure Baby™ you have,
the motor is either a 3,800rpm, 1/7thhp permanent magnet
power plant with a top speed of about 35-40mph (Lure Baby
Junior and Standard), or a 6,000rpm, 2.5hp motor with a top
speed of about 50mph (Lure Baby Custom). Both motors
are designed for cool running and long life.
4
Start
Lure Baby
Finish
This layout is much more complex and takes 7 pulleys
instead of 4, but it’s worth it from your dog’s point of view.
You can order more pulleys from us at any time. We use a
variation of this when we do lure coursing events and use a
reversible machine.
25
Layout No. 2 will probably require two people, at least
until you know your dog will run over to the lure (which will be
nearly 1,000 feet away) and then chase it back as you run it.
Two people are easier, though, because the second person
will walk the dog back to the start point and take the line with
her, setting it on the pulleys as she goes.
Once again, the caveat about keeping sufficient space
on the curves/corners applies: when you’re setting up your
field, be aware of everything your dog could possibly run into.
The dog will keep running no matter what is in the way, so it
is up to you to create a safe course. Fences, trees, rocks,
dirt patches (running through hard dirt can result in slipped
pads – very painful!), posts, trash cans, squirrel holes or
even people will all become one with the course as far as
your dog is concerned.
So, again:
(1) Keep at least 50’ of clearance around your course
in all directions, more if you have the room.
(2) Make sure there’s nothing in or around the path of
your dog that could cause an injury such as gopher and squirrel holes, trees, posts, rocks, twigs
& branches, fences, etc. Remember, they’ll run
wide and on both sides of the line.
(3) Keep your turns at 90 degrees or less.
(4) Watch out for people walking through your course.
They won’t necessarily see the line, even though it
it’s white, so if you’re running at a park or the
beach, make sure the people around you know
what you’re doing.
(5) Keep the lure ahead of the dog by 10-30 feet, depending on the dog. Again, you’ll have to play this
by ear since each dog has different physiology,
stamina, and abilities. Some dogs want that lure
right in front of them; some dogs need it out a
ways and moving fast. You’ll just have to play with
it and see what your dog’s needs are.
24
THE SPOOL.
All Lure Babies™ are fitted with a custom spool designed especially for this application. All have a 2” diameter
barrel with a steel shaft that connects to the motor at one
end, and is seated in a needle bearing at the other.
Lure Baby
Standard and Custom
Spool
Lure Baby Junior
Lure Baby Juniors have yellow plastic flanges and both the
Customs and Standards have red flanges. The needle bearing is pre-lubricated and should not need maintenance, however you should try to keep dirt out of it. The shaft is kept in
place by a collar on the outside of the
bearing to prevent the shaft from
changing position or being forced out.
THE STRING.
Your Lure Baby comes with 250# braided Dacron line
already on the spool. The amount of line on the spool depends on which model machine you have:
• LB Junior:
• LB Standard:
• LB Custom:
500 ft
1,000 ft
2,000 ft
NOTE:
The Lure Baby™ is fitted with machine screws and nuts that
may loosen over time. Please check them periodically and
tighten as needed. Please do not over-torque.
5
THE LEVELER.
Both the Lure Baby Custom and the Standard are fitted with a leveler mechanism that keeps the line coming onto
the spool evenly. This prevents tangles and backlash.
COURSE LAYOUT NO. 2
Start
P
P
The Lure Baby Junior does not have a leveler and the operator needs to push the line every few seconds with his/her
foot in order to prevent tangles.
On the Custom and Standard, the string must be run through
the leveler from the top of the spool down toward the back,
then through the eye at the end of the leveler arm and out
the front grommet.
P
Case
P
Spool barrel
(where string
goes)
Slow down
here
Stop
here
Leveler
arm
Grommet hole
String guide
Leveler eye
string guide
If you have any questions, please call or email us and we’ll
walk you through it.
6
Finish
This layout looks simple but it can be hard on your dog if the
turns are too close together, so your 180-feet-between-pulleys rule applies here, too.
23
COURSE LAYOUT NO. 1
P
P
Slow
down
here
P
THE PULLEYS.
Your new pulleys are designed for smooth running:
machined composite bodies with sealed stainless ball bearings that need no maintenance. Using them is easy – simply
press them into soft ground or grass and string your line
along the indentation in the pulley body. DO NOT WRAP
THE LINE AROUND THE PULLEY BODY. Doing so may
destroy the pulleys, damage your machine, and will void
your warranty. Also, do not use a hammer of any kind.
The pulleys should not be forced into the ground hard
enough to prevent them from spinning. If the pulleys can’t
spin, the line may damage them.
Finish
here
Lure Baby
Start
L2
P
L1
Because the Lure Baby™ is a drag lure machine (that
is, it only goes one way), you will be able to start your dog
and run her in a variety of ways.
The 4 pulleys (P) that come with the Lure Baby™ can
be set in the field either in a pattern or in a straight line. This
diagram shows a circular-type pattern. This pattern allows
you the flexibility of starting your dog yourself – no need for
anyone to help you. Just stand between the Lure Baby™
and the start point and hold onto your dog. Once you’ve
removed your dog’s collar and lead, you’re ready to run.
Depending on how fast your dog is, you may have to
give the Lure Baby™ a head start of up to 60 feet or more
by starting the machine and releasing your dog when the
lure gets to L2. Slower dogs can be released just after starting your machine (L1).
22
The 7” steel pulley
shafts connect to the body
with a steel coupler; Loctite®
has been used on the threads
to prevent loosening.
Because you’ll be using these pulleys in all types
of conditions, cleaning the pulleys after use will
keep them in good working order. Simply wipe
off with a clean damp cloth; water may also be
used to remove any accumulated dirt on the
shaft but should not be poured inside the body
or in the bearings.
Indoor pulleys are available through our
web store. They feature the same machined
bodies but are mounted to a suction base for us
on hard surfaces such as floors and walls. The
indoor pulleys can be used with all drag lures.
7
THE LURES.
You can use a few different things but we recommend
using one white plastic grocery bag for the lure (be sure to
slice open the handles before your dog chases it). You
MUST use a swivel to attach the lure or the line will twist
and you’ll never untangle it. (your Lure Baby comes with
two). See page 9 for instructions.
If you want to try using a piece of cloth, sheepskin, or
animal fur, don’t use the pulleys (they’re only designed for a
plastic bag); just make the course a straight-away. The Lure
Baby Custom is the only machine with a strong enough motor to use anything except a plastic bag, but just remember
that you want it to simulate live prey as it races across the
field so don’t make it too heavy. The heavier the lure, the
slower the machine.
8
SECTION II
SAMPLE COURSE LAYOUTS
On the following pages you’ll find three sample
courses that you can try with your dog.
Once you become more experienced and have more
confidence in doing this you can make up different courses
but when you’re just starting, I recommend keeping it simple
to avoid injuries to both your dog(s) and to you.
21
One last thing: please remember to slow down the
lure well before your dog gets to the finish. If you don’t, either she’ll crash into the machine or you, or the lure and
swivel will enter the case and crash into the leveler, damaging it. Typically, slowing it just after the last turn is a good
idea and then you can bring the dog in at a reasonable
speed and stop the lure before it goes into the machine case.
If you can’t stop the line/lure in time, stop pushing the “go”
button and step on the line before any damage occurs.
You can let your dog catch the lure - in fact, we encourage it - but don’t let them drag it away, since it’s still attached to the machine. Also, be aware that your dog is a
predator and is in high gear by the end of the course. Any
dog standing nearby the lure or attempting to crowd or otherwise interfere with your dog as s/he’s going for the take may
get more than s/he bargained for and you may end up at the
emergency clinic. To prevent any incidents, you might want
to have an extra lure handy to let her have - and destroy instead. Shake it at her and throw it down away from the line
and away from other dogs. Fortunately, most dogs are easily diverted so the switch shouldn’t be too hard!
THE LINE AND SWIVELS:
Each Lure Baby comes with its spool loaded with
250# braided Dacron® : the Junior has 500’, the Standard
has 1,000’ and the Custom has 2,000’. This line is very
sturdy and will not break under normal circumstances.
Causes for breakage include:
• Running your line through dirt;
• Setting your pulleys improperly;
• Creating unnecessary tension on the line (NO
tension is necessary - creating it can damage
your machine!)
The following pictorial shows step-by-step how to attach a swivel to the line:
1
4
7
2
3
5
6
thru the
grommet
If for some reason your line does break, or if you have to cut
it and patch it by tying two pieces together, just follow the
instructions on the following page.
20
NOTE: never run the line into the case or crash it into the
leveler. Doing so will damage the leveler arm and will void
your warranty.
9
IF THE LINE TANGLES ON THE SPOOL.
Because the Lure Baby Junior does not have a leveler to keep the line spooling evenly, you may at some point
experience a backlash and tangle. The Standard and Custom do not typically have any tangles unless the leveler has
been damaged.
If you get a tangle, having another person available
on the field really comes in handy because one person can
work on the line and the other can walk it out while you’re
fixing it, but you can do it all yourself (you’ll walk a lot!). The
thing to remember is THIS IS NOT A KNOT: it is a series of
loops folded over and on top of each other. Here’s how to
clear it:
(2) Don’t make your turns too sharp. No dog can turn
on a dime and the sharper the turn, the more likely
an injury will occur. So, keep your turns less than or
equal to 90 degrees.
1. Do NOT pull on the end of the line - you’ll only make it
worse and it will not come apart.
(4) Speed up going into the turns. Turns can be very
challenging. Speed, breed, size and weight of the
dog all factor into how good your course design is. If
you’re having a Chihuahua fun day, you’ll make a
much different course than if you’ve invited the
Kelpie Club or the AmStaff Club out. The turns will
be your weakest (and potentially most dangerous)
link, so remember the limits of the dogs you’re running.
2. Follow the line where it enters the tangle, then push apart
the loops of line that are laying over it. As the line loosens,
pull it out but don’t tighten it.
3. Keep unraveling the tangle until you get past all the loops,
then walk your line out the rest of the way.
IF THE LINE BREAKS
If your dog catches the lure the line will most likely not
break, as the line is extremely strong. If it does, you can just
tie the broken ends together (see previous section on knots),
but if you tie a knot at the tip of each end before tying the
ends of the line together, you’ll get a better result because
the two ends will not slip apart as easily. Here’s how to do it
properly:
1. Tie a
knot in
each end
of the broken string.
2. Lay
the two
ends together...
10
(3) Keep the lure ahead of the dog by 10-30 feet, depending on the dog. This one you’ll just have to play
by ear. Each dog is different in speed, sight, and
attention span. Some dogs want that lure right in
front of them; some dogs need it out a ways and
moving fast. You’ll just have to play with it and see
what your dog needs are.
So, the best way to cue your coursers is to speed
up into the turn to let the dog know it’s coming, then
slow down once past the pulley so the dog can
then keep up. Remember, 10-30 feet ahead is
where you want that lure. You only need to speed
up enough to keep the dog safe – that will be different with every dog.
For much more detailed information on how to run dogs on
the field, please consult our Field Training Manual for Domestic Dogs, available on our web store: http://
www.shop.wickedcoursing.com/FIELD-TRAINING-MANUALFOR-DOMESTIC-DOGS-FTM-D.htm
19
and tie them both in one knot at the same time.
2. Thread the lure onto the swivel like a safety pin.
(line shown is only 30#)
Thread it again for strength, then close the clip.
3. Pull on each side of the repaired line to tighten
the knot and test it. Your line is now ready to
use again.
Okay, now for the layout. This is a fun sport, folks, so
please keep in mind the limits of your dog’s physical abilities.
Here are a couple of guidelines that apply to all the layouts:
(1)
You’ll want to keep your pulleys about 180
feet apart. This will give you a good-sized
course and ensure the safety of your dog in the
turns.
18
11
FIELD TIPS AND ATTACHING THE LURE
RE-SPOOLING THE LINE
If you have to take all the line off the spool without
laying a course, you’ll need to respool it. Here are the instructions:
1. No matter which Lure Baby you have, it’s easier to place
the machine on the floor and run the line onto the spool from
the open top of the case. On the Standard and Custom, that
means bypassing the leveler completely.
2. Place the spool of string on an upright (dowel or other rigid
post) that is attached to and will not come out of your bench
or vise. If you run it out sideways, the spool will be pulled off
the dowel and can hit you with some force.
NOTE: Because the Custom is very powerful and the switch
is very sensitive, there’s a risk of getting cut or having the
string yank out of your hand, so please make sure the spool
is not at risk of coming loose, and GO SLOWLY!!
3. The main thing to remember when spooling line is to
WEAR A HEAVY LEATHER GLOVE on the hand holding the
line.
4. Hold the hand switch in one hand and the line in the other
– WEARING YOUR LEATHER GLOVES – outside of the
case, and depress the switch gently. Keep enough tension
on the line to keep the line snug on the reel. Move the line
back and forth by hand so it spools evenly. Do not spool the
line too loosely or it will ball up when you run it on the field.
5. If you have a Standard or Custom, once all the line is on
the spool, run the line down from the top of the spool, then
through the leveler eye, across the case bottom and out the
front of the case through the grommet.
The thing to remember about laying out a field is:
make sure you have enough room for the dog to run wide.
Depending on the sharpness of the turn, your dog may not
be able to follow the line exactly, especially if she’s very fast.
You’ll want to make sure there is enough room on the outside of the line so that the dog will not run into anything. 50
feet is probably enough room.
A few words on the lure are in order here: A white
plastic grocery bag or small trash bag (white) works best, but
you can use fur or an animal tail (not my preference unless
the animal was already dead for another reason...), or even
a piece of very lightweight cloth. Whatever you use, it must
be light enough to flutter and dance when the line is pulling it
in; we’re simulating prey, don’t forget!
You can attach the lure either before you start laying
out the line or once you’re done, but it’s easier if you do it
before. Once you’ve reached the end of the layout, simply
lay the lure and string down where you want to start your
dog and you’re done.
Again, you MUST use a swivel to attach the lure
because without it the line spins with the lure and will
get very twisted and make it unusable.
The following pages pictures illustrate the correct way
to thread the lure using a swivel:
6. If you have a Junior, just run the line under the bar and out
through the opening in the front of the case.
1. Lure, line and Swivel with the line knotted above the loop
so the swivel can move but won’t slip off.
12
17
ANGLES
Dogs, like rabbits, can’t turn on a dime and any turn
greater than 90° can end in an injury for the dog. If you’re
running Greyhounds or Whippets, this is especially true so
keep your angles open. You want most, if not all, of your
angles to be less than 90° - such as between 25° and 90°
(see the angles below). The object of the game is to have
the dogs chase the lure while running smoothly, not to get
hurt.
25°
SAFE
45°
60°
90°
SAFE
SAFE
SAFE
120°
150°
UNSAFE UNSAFE
180°
MAYBE
The only exception to this rule is when you’re using a
complete 180° turnaround. Including a 180° turn in a course
can actually show a good dog’s talent to his or her best advantage. In the wild, rabbits sometimes successfully use this
tactic during pursuit. This maneuver causes the dogs to run
past the turn and none of them can cut the field, allowing the
faster dogs to maintain their lead. This type of turn should
only be attempted by an experienced lure operator.
The worst case scenario of including greater than 90°
angles in a course is to follow them with a short straightaway
and then another turn. This setup is what you’ll see in track
races – you’ll also see hind leg stress fractures. Putting a
100 yard straightaway between turns will eliminate this hazard by giving the dogs sufficient time to recover. When running Greyhounds, because of their high muscle-to-bone
ratio, once committed to the turn the upper leg rotates while
the foot is anchored for traction. The resulting torsion will
result in the long bones of the leg breaking, sometimes in a
spiral fashion, almost always severely. Such injuries can
also occur to the front legs, depending on which way s/he’s
running and what surface s/he’s running on.
16
DISASSEMBLY:
You should not disassemble your Lure Baby™ for any
reason, and doing so may seriously damage the machine
and void the warranty. If you experience problems or need
assistance, please call us before you do anything.
WARRANTY
The Lure Baby Junior and Standard machines and
their components are warranted by Wicked Coursing for 30
days against manufacturer defects. This includes the pulleys.
The Lure Baby Custom is warranted for 90 days on
the machine and its components (pulleys are covered for 30
days); the battery is warranted by the manufacturer for 1
year.
OPERATION
Once on the field, put your dog(s) in their crate (in the
shade) and open up the Lure Baby™.
1. If you have a Standard or Custom, open the small lid
and extend the hand switch cable. Do not step on the
switch...
2. On Standards and Customs, make sure the end of line
is run from the top of the spool down through the leveler eye
at the bottom back of the case, then continue the line across
the bottom to the front of the case and pull it through the
grommet and out. On Juniors, run the line under the keeper
bar and out the front opening.
3. Using your swivel, attach the lure to the end of the line.
Then take the end of the line, pulleys and lure, and start
walking out your course
13
.
4. One at a time, set the pulleys where you want them and
lay the line around them as you go. Please refer to the angle
chart on page 16.
5. Drop the line & lure about 40-60 feet from the machine
(you’ll start your dog right at the machine).
6. Leave the case top open*; remove your dog from the
crate.
7. Connect the battery cables. Flip the power master power
switch on; the leveler will come on automatically and run the
entire time the machine is on (Standard and Custom only).
Hold onto your dog with one hand and have the hand switch
in the other, and TALLEY HO!!
SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
*NOTE: All Lure Babies are designed to run with the LID
OPEN ONLY - NOT CLOSED OR LATCHED. You should
close the lid when there’s a dog around so they don’t
stick their noses on the battery or on anything moving,
but please do not close and latch the lid while you’re
running this machine. Doing so will cause irreparable
damage that you’ll have to send it back to us to repair or
replace.
There are a few simple guidelines to this game that
you’ll want to remember. First, try to keep approximately
180 feet between the pulleys. Second, don’t make your
turns too sharp - refer to the Angle Guide on the next page.
Last, there are 3 basic rules that will keep your experience
fun:
14
The No. 1 rule is: SAFETY 1ST! Crate your dog while
you’re setting up! This will save your sanity. Letting your
dog run free while you’re laying out the line is the absolute
surest way to create a situation where the dog is tangled,
you and/or your dog gets injured, everyone involved gets
frustrated, and nobody has fun. If you have a collapsible
soft crate, those are the best because they’re light weight
and easy to carry to the field. You can easily walk your dog,
carry a soft crate and the Lure Baby™ at the same time.
The other part of this is the people around you need
to be safe, too, so before you hit that switch shout out
“HOLD YOUR HOUNDS!” That will get people’s attention
and give them a chance to hold onto their dogs and prevent
injuries. If you don’t, you’re likely to have a free-for-all out on
the field.
The No. 2 rule is: BE PREPARED. Even experienced
people get hurt and I’d rather you had fun, so please: make
sure you have a good first aid kit on the field, keep an eye
on what’s on and around the field, make sure people know
when you’re getting ready to run, and be prepared for anything.
The No. 3 rule is: KEEP IT SIMPLE! It takes practice
to lay out a course that is fun for your dog and easy for you
to set up and run, so don’t try the advanced courses until
you’ve got some field time and experience. Once you’ve
become comfortable with the equipment and your dog’s own
style of running, then you can get creative.
A WORD ABOUT PUPPIES.
Please do not run puppies under 4 months of age,
and don’t take them through tight turns until they’re a year
old. They might look like adults but their joints can’t take it
and they’ll have serious and permanent injuries. Call Pat if
you have questions.
NOTE: We do not recommend children using this equipment
unless accompanied by an adult. Kids don’t always have
enough life experience to understand consequences so, to
be safe, just go out there with them.
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