Hybrid AB Water dispersible UVA filter Hybrid AB Core: Chemical For UV protection UV Filters(30%) Shell: PMMA Bead(70%) 1) For Sensorial Modification 2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase Hybrid AB Hybrid S Hybrid EHT Composition PMMA 70% * Avobenzone 30% Composition PMMA 70% ** BEMT 30% Composition PMMA 70% *** EHT 30% Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection UVA+UVB UVB Protection *Avobenzone: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM) **BEMT: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ***EHT: Ethyl Hexyl Triazone Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 1 BMDBM(=Avobenzone) UVA filter is a great but has Problems too Problems (1) Poor Solubility Avobenzone • • • • INCI: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM) Oil soluble UVA filter Avobenzone was patented in 1973 and was approved in the EU in 1978. It was approved by the FDA in 1988. Its use is approved worldwide Avobenzone is sensitive to the properties of the solvent, being relatively stable in polar protic solvents and unstable in nonpolar environments (3) Poor Compatibility Dimethicone 0 3 Cyclomethicone 0 50 Mineral oil 1 50 Isostearyl Isosterate 3 50 Octylpalmitate 3 50 Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 7 50 Isopropyl Myristate 9 50 PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate 5 50 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 11 50 Octyldodecanol 13 50 Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate 26 50 The amount of BMDBM decreases weakening of the UVA protection Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2. BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatings (4) Crystallization BMDBM is susceptible to crystallization that results in loss of product aesthetics, sun protection, appearance, stability (2) Poor Photo-stablility Avobenzone degrades quickly in the sun. Researchers have reported a 36% reduction in UVA absorption by avobenzone after only 15 minutes of exposure. In vitro studies have shown a 50% loss in UVA blockage for different sunscreen formulations, confirming the photodegradation of avobenzone. However, BMDBM is globally approved INCI Name Trade Name USA Japan EU BMDBM Parsol 1789 3 10 5 Australia 5 Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 2 6 Big Things about Hybrid AB Hybrid AB Composition PMMA 70% * Avobenzone 30% Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Big Thing #1 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula UVA filter in water phase Most UV filters are either oils or need to be dissolved in polar emollients. The results are highly loaded oil phases, which lead to the most common limitations in Sun Care formulations - Reduced cosmetic elegance - Lower flexibility to modify the sensory properties of formulations - Suboptimal performance due to the use of filters mainly in one formulation phase Hybrid PMMA, water dispersible, can be incorporated in the water phase Hybrid PMMA Bead The use of Hybrid PMMA allows a balanced incorporation of UV filters in the water and oil phase. Therefore, a more homogeneous distribution of the UV filters on skin can be achieved which often result in a boosting effect Through incorporation into water phase, Hybrid PMMA offers increased formulation flexibility. Lower UV filter concentration is needed in the oil phase to achieve highest contribution to SPF and UVA-PF Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 5 Big Thing #2 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula PA+++ system Product Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Approval Status (max%) Remark EU JP US AUS DHHB* 4% 10 10 - 10 Not approved in US Expensive BEMT** 4% 10 3 - 10 Not approved in US Expensive Avobenzone 3.5% 5 10 3 5 Globally approved Zinc Oxide (40nm) 17% 25 100 25 20 <100nm ZnO is not listed as UV Filter in EU BMDBM *DHHB % needed for PA+++ To achieve PA+++, Avobenzone 3.5% in oil phase Possible option? **BEMT bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 7 Difficult to use Avobenzone 3.5% in oil phase. The reasons are… W/Si Not possible As avobenzone is not soluble to silicone oils, usage of even small amount of avobenzone together with silicone oils causes sever formula instability O/W Not recommended to put 3.5% of Avobenzone into internal oil phase as it greatly restricts formulation freedom in oil phase W/O Putting 3.5% in external oil phase is possible… Concerns about photostability & solubility of Avobenzone requires use of Octocrylene and other heavy oils So the feel is very oily and unpleasant So…Hybrid AB in water phase! Global PA+++ solution O/W #1-1 #1-2 #2-1 #2-2 #3-1 #3-2 #4-1 #4-2 BMDBM (=avobenzone) 3 1.2 3 1.2 1.7 3.5 - - Octocrylene 1 1 1 1.0 1.0 1 - - benzophenone-3 - - 3 3 - - - - 4 5 - - - 3.5 - - 8.0 8.0 9.2 Oil Phase BEMT Water Phase HYBRID AB - 6 Amount of BMDBM 3 =1.2+6%* 30% 3 In vivo PFA 7.0 7.0 7.2 3 - 6 6 3 3.5 8.0 8.0 =1.2+6%* =1.7+6%* 30% 30% Recommendation from SUNJIN Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 9 Global PA+++ solution Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 10 Chemical Filter Only SPF50 PA+++ Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 11 PA+++ solution for USA Max approval % of avobenzone in USA is 3% as compared to 5% or more in other countries From the formula right, BMDBM 1.2% + Hybrid AB 6% = 1.2% + 6%*30% = 1.2% + 1.8% = 3.0% BMDBM 3% is not enough to achieve PA+++ So that’s why BPS-3 is used to achieve PA+++ No mineral filters used to meet FDA regulation Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 12 Big Thing #3 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula 3. Ultra Light Texture Good Spread & Feel due to silica shell 5um PMMA Bead With BMDBM Hybrid AB is Spherical. You can feel only external PMMA Bead Ultra Light Texture No need to use emollients to solubilize BMDBM Solubility ratio Dimethicone 0 3 Cyclomethicone 0 50 Mineral oil 1 50 Isostearyl Isosterate 3 50 Octylpalmitate 3 50 Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 7 50 Isopropyl Myristate 9 50 PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate 5 50 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 11 50 Octyldodecanol 13 50 frequently used as a texture additive, and therefore lend the formula Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate 26 50 a soft-touch effect Most chemical filters are very oily and leave behind an unpleasant, sometimes sticky feel on the skin Hybrid PMMA has the excellent skin feel of PMMA bead which is Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 14 Big Thing #4 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Theoretical Explanation Photo-degradation of Avobenzone can be blocked as Avobenzone is 5um PMMA Bead With BMDBM immobilized or located inside solid PMMA matrix where avobenzone is segregated or protected from other UV filters or any other kinds of potentially reactive chemicals Thus Hybrid PMMA system is very novel and innovative way to improve photo-stability of avobenzone ‘Hybrid PMMA bead containing chemical Sunscreen filters’ Sung-HO Lee, SUNJIN Chemical IFSCC 2008 Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 16 Photo-stability Test protocol Colipa Method Irradiation 10MED Proposed protocol for determination of photostability Part I: cosmetic UV filters PMMA Plate 5cm2 Layer 1.3mg/cm2 30min drying Analsis of solution: HPLC Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 17 Photostability Test Result 3.0 2.95 10 MED 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.95 2.7 10 MED 2.1 10 MED 10 MED Hybrid AB BMDBM 10% 0% Hybrid AB BMDBM 0% 3% Hybrid AB BMDBM 0% 3% Hybrid AB BMDBM 0% 0% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 0% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 0% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 2.4% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 0% BEMT 0% BEMT 0% BEMT 0% BEMT 3% Initial Net BMDBM = 3% Photo-stable Initial Net BMDBM = 3% Initial Net BMDBM = 3% Initial Net BMDBM = 0% Net BEMT = 3% Photo-stable Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 18 Big Thing #5 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Improved photo-stability 4. Ultra Light Texture 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Minimized Skin Irritancy Test Results #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 Distilled Water 10.0 - - - - - - - - Isohexadecane - 10.0 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 SUNPMMA-S - - 1.00 - - - 0.62 0.62 0.62 OMC - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 - 0.31 Avobenzone - - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 0.07 Hybrid ABOMC - - - - - 1.00 - - - Irritation Score 0 1 2 5 3 1 3 2 3 #11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #7 #8 #9 Distilled Water 10.0 - - - - - - - - Alkyl Benzoate - 10.0 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 SUNPMMA-S - - 1.00 - - - 0.62 0.62 0.62 OMC - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 - 0.31 Avobenzone - - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 0.07 Hybrid ABOMC - - - - - 1.00 - - - Irritation Score 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 3 4 The encapsulation of UV filters inside PMMA bead reduces dermal uptake, thereby reducing the potential for irritation Minimized Skin Irritation Dermal response: Test Condition: Sample size: Study Design: Application time: Dosage: 5 subjects(Korean) Patch test 72hr 25㎕ 0 = No evidence of irritation 1 = Minimal erythema, 2 = Readily visible erythema, 3 = Erythema and papules 4 = Definite edema 5 = Erythema, edema, and papules 6 = Vesicular eruption 7 = strong reaction spreading “The 500-Da rule for skin penetration is: 1)virtually all common contact allergens are under 500-Da, larger molecules are not known as contact sensitizers…they can not penetrate and thus cannot act as allergens in man” Avobenzone Mw: 310.4 OMC Mw: 290 Octocrylene Mw: 361 Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 20 Big Thing #6 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Improved photo-stability 4. Ultra Light Texture 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Example 1: Mousse Foundation with UVA protection SJF-0806-Mousse Foundation-ver2.0 Evaluation No. Trade Name INCI % SPF 50 1 SUNTITAN-AS Titanium dioxide & Triethoxycaprylyl silane PA ++(5.0) 2 SUNSERI-AS Sericite & Triethoxy caprylyl silane 5.00 SPF/UVA 3 SUNMICA-AS Mica & Triethoxycaprylyl silane 2.00 Critical Wavelength 4 SUNSIL-130HSC Silica & Methicone 5.00 5 SUNSIL Tin50 Silica & Titanium dioxide 3.50 6 Hybrid Talc(DM) Talc & MBBT & Dimethicone 5.00 7 Hybrid AB 5.00 8 SUNIOR-AS 9 SUNIOY-AS 10 SUNIOB-AS PMMA & Avobenzone Iron oxide Red & Triethoxycaprylyl silane Iron oxide Yellow & Triethoxycaprylyl silane Iron oxide Black & Triethoxycaprylyl silane 11 SALACOS 99 Isononyl isononanoate 10.00 12 DC200-10CS Dimethicone 5.00 13 SQUALANE Squalane 3.00 14 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00 15 L.P Liquid Paraffin 6.00 16 NOMKORT HKG Glyceryl Behenate / Elcosadioate 4.00 17 JOJOBA OIL Jojoba oil 1.00 18 VIT.E ACETATE Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20 19 PARSOL MCX Ethylhexyl Methxycinnamate 2.00 20 GRAPE SEED OIL Grape Seed Oil C 21 KSG 16 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer 30.00 D 22 FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.08 White Index A Sensory Index Most chemical UV filters are not very silicone-compatible. How to incorporate siliconeincompatible UV filters into silicone phase? B 7.00 0.42 0.84 0.05 Have you ever seen any mousse foundation with UV protection property? Difficult to see in the market, right? You can incorporate Hybrid PMMA into silicone gel phase very easily by simple mixing 3.00 Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 22 More Examples: Formulation Tip Hybrid AB provides UVA protection from water phase 5% of Hybrid AB can go up to PA++ Examples Sun Protect Gel, go page 142 Sun Spray, go page 139 Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 23
© Copyright 2024