Project 1 C’9 KATERINA THEODOROU
Project 1 KATERINA THEODOROU C’9 Surfing is a surface water sport in which a person (the surfer) rides a board (the surfboard) on the crest of a wave as it carries the surfer towards the shore. Two major subdivisions within stand-up surfing are longboarding and shortboarding, reflecting differences in surfboard design including surfboard length, and riding style. In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively, associated with big wave surfing), a motorized water vehicle, such as a personal watercraft tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the surfer match a large wave's higher speed, a speed that is generally, but not exclusively a speed that a self-propelled surfer can not match. Surfing-related sports such as paddleboarding and sea kayaking do not require waves, and other derivative sports such as kitesurfing and windsurfing rely primarily on wind for power, yet all of these platforms may also be used to ride waves. Recently with the use of V-drive boats, , riding the boat wake has emerged. History Of Surfing Surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture. Surfing was first observed by Europeans at Hawaii in 1767, by the crew members of the Dolphin. Later, Lieutenant James King wrote about the art when completing the journals of Captain James Cook upon Cook's death in 1779. When Mark Twain visited Hawaii in 1866 he wrote, "In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives, of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the national pastime of surf-bathing." References to surf riding on planks and single canoe hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa, where surfing was called fa'ase'e or se'egalu (see Kramer, Samoa Islands) and Tonga Equipment Surfing can be done on various equipment, including surfboards, longboards, Stand Up Paddle boards (SUP's) , bodyboards, Boogieboards,wave skis, skimboards, kneeboards, surf mats and macca's trays. Surfboards were originally made of solid wood and were large and heavy (often up to 12 feet (3.7 m) long and 100 pounds (45 kg)). Lighter balsa wood surfboards (first made in the late 1940s and early 1950s) were a significant improvement, not only in portability, but also in increasing maneuverability. Most modern surfboards are made of polyurethane foam (PU), with one or more wooden strips or "stringers", fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin. An emerging board material is epoxy (EPS) which is stronger and lighter than traditional fiberglass. Even newer designs incorporate materials such as carbon fiber and variableflex composites. Since epoxy surfboards are lighter, they will float better than a fiberglass board of similar size, shape and thickness. This makes them easier to paddle and faster in the water. However, a common complaint of EPS boards is that they do not provide as much feedback as a traditional fiberglass board. For this reason, many advanced surfers prefer that their surfboards be made from fiberglass. Waxing a Surfboard Other equipment includes a leash (to stop the board from drifting away after a wipeout, and to prevent it from hitting other surfers), surf wax, traction pads (to keep a surfer's feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and fins (also known as skegs) which can either be permanently attached (glassed-on) or interchangeable. Sportswear designed or particularly suitable for surfing may be sold as boardwear (the term is also used in snowboarding). In warmer climates, swimsuits, surf trunks or boardshorts are worn, and occasionally rash guards; in cold water surfers can opt to wear wetsuits, boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower water temperatures. A newer introduction is a rash vest with a thin layer of titanium to provide maximum warmth without compromising mobility. There are many different surfboard sizes, shapes, and designs in use today. Modern longboards, generally 9 to 10 feet (3.0 m) in length, are reminiscent of the earliest surfboards, but now benefit from modern innovations in surfboard shaping and fin design. Competitive longboard surfers need to be competent at traditional walking maneuvers, as well as the short-radius turns normally associated with shortboard surfing. The modern shortboard began life in the late 1960s and has evolved into today's common thruster style, defined by its three fins, usually around 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m) in length. The thruster was invented by Australian shaper Simon Anderson. Midsize boards, often called funboards, provide more maneuverability than a longboard, with more floation than a shortboard. While many surfers find that funboards live up to their name, providing the best of both surfing modes, others are critical. There are also various niche styles, such as the Egg, a longboard-style short board targeted for people who want to ride a shortboard but need more paddle power. The Fish, a board which is typically shorter, flatter, and wider than a normal shortboard, often with a split tail (known as a swallow tail). The Fish often has two or four fins and is specifically designed for surfing smaller waves. For big waves there is the Gun, a long, thick board with a pointed nose and tail (known as a pin tail) specifically designed for big waves. Surfing Training Surfing is a very complete sport. It requires swimming skills, sense of balance, decision taking and constant muscle interactions. Before hitting waves, try these physical warm up fitness schemes to avoid injuries: 1. Go for a light jogging during four minutes. You body will start engines and increase your heart rate, breathing and blood circulation. 2. Swing your legs and arms. 3. Slowly try to reach your fingers to your feet. 4. Swing your leg backwards and forwards. 5. Stretch your leg muscles. 6. Rotate your head and neck. 7. Gently rotate your heel to exercise the whole foot articulation. 8. Inhale deeply and exhale vigorously a few times. 9. Make very quick and short runs back and forth. 10. Elevate your arms and join the palm of your hand above your head, as higher as you can. Famous Surfing Locations Mavericks ( California ) 4-frames image that shows the famous break of Mavericks Maverick's or Mavericks is a world-famous surfing location in Northern California. It is located approximately one-half mile (0.8 km) from shore in Pillar Point Harbor, just north of Half Moon Bay at the village of Princeton-By-The-Sea. After a strong winter storm in the northern Pacific Ocean, waves can routinely crest at over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 50 feet (15m). The break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater rock formation. Pipeline ( Oahu, Hawaii ) Pipeline is a surf reef break located in Hawaii, off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. The spot is notorious and famous for its huge waves breaking in shallow water just above its sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow and thick curls of water that surfers can ride inside of. There are three reefs at Pipeline in progressively deeper water further out to sea that activate at various power levels applied by ocean swells. Teahupo’o ( Tahiti ) Teahupo’o (pronounced cho-po) is a world-renowned surfing location off the south-west of the island of Tahiti, French Polynesia, southern Pacific Ocean. It is known for its heavy, glassy waves, often reaching 2 to 3 m (7 to 10 ft) and higher. It is the site of the annual Billabong Pro Tahiti surf competition, part of the World Championship Tour (WCT) of the ASP World Tour professional surfing circuit. Zicatela Beach ( Mexican Pipeline ) Zicatela is a beach located in the town of . Nicknamed the "Mexican Pipeline" due to the similar power and shape of the Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu, the wave that breaks on Zicatela Beach draws an international crowd of surfers, bodyboarders and their entourages. Mid to late summer is low season for tourists, but a prime time for waves and international tournaments. A number of international competitions such as the , and the MexPipe Challenge have taken place. Surfers and Surf Culture Surfers represent a diverse culture based on riding the waves. Some people practice surfing as a recreational activity while others make it the central focus of their lives. Within the United States, surfing culture is most dominant in California, Florida and Hawaii. Some historical markers of the culture included the woodie, the station wagon used to carry surfers' boards, as well as boardshorts, the long swim shorts typically worn while surfing. Surfers can be classified into 3 catorgries: Professional(Pro), Average and Kook. A professional surfer is someone who is very good at it and is usually paid. An average surfer is anyone who enjoys the sport of surfing and can stand up and turn. A kook is someone who drops in on you(cuts you off or snakes you) or is just a terrible surfer. As long as kooks don't get in the way of anyone and practice they become average. The sport of surfing now represents a multibillion dollar industry especially in clothing and fashion markets. Some people make a career out of surfing by receiving corporate sponsorships. When the waves were flat, surfers persevered with sidewalk surfing, which is now called skateboarding. Sidewalk surfing has a similar feel to surfing and requires only a paved road or sidewalk. To create the feel of the wave, surfers even sneak into empty backyard swimming pools to ride in, known as pool skating. International Stars Mick Fanning Stephanie Gilmore Harley Ingleby Jennifer Smith Maxime Huscenot Laura Enever Joel Parkinson Silvana Lima Dane Reynolds Rosanne Hodge Kekoa Bacalso Coco Ho Dan Ross Kieren Perrow Layne Beachley Kelly Slater and others Dangers Drowning Surfing, like all water sports, carries the inherent danger of drowning. Although the board assists a surfer in staying buoyant, it cannot be relied on for floation, as it can be separated from the user.[8] The leash, which is attached at the ankle or knee, keeps the surfer connected to the board for convenience but does not prevent drowning. The established rule is that if the surfer cannot handle the water conditions without his or her board then he or she should not go in. Some drownings have occurred as a result of leashes tangling with reefs, holding the surfer underwater. In very large waves such as Waimea or Mavericks, a leash may be undesirable, because the water can drag the board for long distances, holding the surfer underneath the wave. Collisions A surfer exiting a closeout Under the wrong set of conditions, anything that a surfer's body can come in contact with is potentially a danger, including sand bars, rocks, reefs, surfboards, and other surfers.[9] Collisions with these objects can sometimes cause unconsciousness, or even death. Many surfers jump off bridges, buildings, wharves and other structures to reach the surf. If the timing is wrong they can either damage themselves or their equipment, or both.[10] A large number of injuries, up to 66%,[11] are caused by collision with a surfboard (nose or fins). Fins can cause deep lacerations and cuts, as well as bruising. While these injuries can be minor, they can open the skin to infection from the sea; groups like Surfers Against Sewage campaign for cleaner waters to reduce the risk of infections. Falling off a surfboard, colliding with others, or hurting oneself whilst surfing is commonly referred to as a wipeout. Marine life Sea life can sometimes cause injuries and even fatalities. Animals such as sharks,[12] stingrays, seals and jellyfish can sometimes present a danger.[13] Rip Currents Riptides endanger both experienced and inexperienced surfers. Rip currents are water channels that flow away from shore. Since these currents lurk in seemingly calm waters, tired or inexperienced swimmers or surfers can easily be swept away.[14] Seabed The Seabed can pose dangers for the surfers. If a surfer is to fall while riding a wave, the wave will then toss him around, usually downwards. Whether it'd be a reef break or beach break, plenty of surfers have been seriously injured or even died because of the great collision with the bottom of the sea. Seabeds can get very shallow, especially, on beach breaks, during low tide. Take Cyclops in Western Australia for example. This is one of the biggest and thickest reef breaks in the world, with waves measuring up to 10 metres high. Yet, the reef below is only about 2 metres deep. I decided to present surfing because in my opinion, surfing is one of the best extreme sports! It contains everything I want, like danger, challenge, and it is very enjoyable... I believe, without these characteristics there is no interest in a sport! Although, there are many dangers in surfing, I like it very much because I love risks and I want to face many challenges. I think that surfing and surfing tests help me learn how to cope with the difficulties and challenges of any uncomfortable situation as life is full of not easy moments. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough time to involve with more sports even though I know that practicing in sports benefits our health. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Equipment http://www.surfertoday.com/surf-training http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Famous_surf ing_locations http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Surfers_and _surf_culture http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/3022-surfingstars-honoured-at-the-gold-coast-conventioncentre http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Dangers
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