Project 1
KATERINA THEODOROU
C’9
 Surfing
is a surface water sport in which a
person (the surfer) rides a board (the
surfboard) on the crest of a wave as it
carries the surfer towards the shore.
 Two major subdivisions within stand-up
surfing are longboarding and
shortboarding, reflecting differences in
surfboard design including surfboard
length, and riding style.
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In tow-in surfing (most often, but not exclusively,
associated with big wave surfing), a motorized
water vehicle, such as a personal watercraft
tows the surfer into the wave front, helping the
surfer match a large wave's higher speed, a
speed that is generally, but not exclusively a
speed that a self-propelled surfer can not match.
 Surfing-related sports such as paddleboarding
and sea kayaking do not require waves, and
other derivative sports such as kitesurfing and
windsurfing rely primarily on wind for power, yet
all of these platforms may also be used to ride
waves.
 Recently with the use of V-drive boats, , riding
the boat wake has emerged.
History Of Surfing
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Surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture.
Surfing was first observed by Europeans at Hawaii in
1767, by the crew members of the Dolphin. Later,
Lieutenant James King wrote about the art when
completing the journals of Captain James Cook upon
Cook's death in 1779. When Mark Twain visited Hawaii
in 1866 he wrote,
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"In one place we came upon a large company of naked natives,
of both sexes and all ages, amusing themselves with the
national pastime of surf-bathing."
References to surf riding on planks and single canoe
hulls are also verified for pre-contact Samoa, where
surfing was called fa'ase'e or se'egalu (see Kramer,
Samoa Islands) and Tonga
Equipment
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Surfing can be done on various equipment,
including surfboards, longboards, Stand Up
Paddle boards (SUP's) , bodyboards,
Boogieboards,wave skis, skimboards,
kneeboards, surf mats and macca's trays.
 Surfboards were originally made of solid wood
and were large and heavy (often up to 12 feet
(3.7 m) long and 100 pounds (45 kg)). Lighter
balsa wood surfboards (first made in the late
1940s and early 1950s) were a significant
improvement, not only in portability, but also in
increasing maneuverability.
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Most modern surfboards are made of polyurethane foam
(PU), with one or more wooden strips or "stringers",
fiberglass cloth, and polyester resin. An emerging board
material is epoxy (EPS) which is stronger and lighter
than traditional fiberglass. Even newer designs
incorporate materials such as carbon fiber and variableflex composites.
Since epoxy surfboards are lighter, they will float better
than a fiberglass board of similar size, shape and
thickness. This makes them easier to paddle and faster
in the water. However, a common complaint of EPS
boards is that they do not provide as much feedback as
a traditional fiberglass board. For this reason, many
advanced surfers prefer that their surfboards be made
from fiberglass.
Waxing a Surfboard
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Other equipment includes a leash (to stop the board
from drifting away after a wipeout, and to prevent it from
hitting other surfers), surf wax, traction pads (to keep a
surfer's feet from slipping off the deck of the board), and
fins (also known as skegs) which can either be
permanently attached (glassed-on) or interchangeable.
Sportswear designed or particularly suitable for surfing
may be sold as boardwear (the term is also used in
snowboarding). In warmer climates, swimsuits, surf
trunks or boardshorts are worn, and occasionally rash
guards; in cold water surfers can opt to wear wetsuits,
boots, hoods, and gloves to protect them against lower
water temperatures. A newer introduction is a rash vest
with a thin layer of titanium to provide maximum warmth
without compromising mobility.
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There are many different surfboard sizes, shapes, and
designs in use today. Modern longboards, generally 9 to
10 feet (3.0 m) in length, are reminiscent of the earliest
surfboards, but now benefit from modern innovations in
surfboard shaping and fin design. Competitive longboard
surfers need to be competent at traditional walking
maneuvers, as well as the short-radius turns normally
associated with shortboard surfing.
The modern shortboard began life in the late 1960s and
has evolved into today's common thruster style, defined
by its three fins, usually around 6 to 7 feet (1.8 to 2.1 m)
in length. The thruster was invented by Australian shaper
Simon Anderson.
Midsize boards, often called funboards, provide more
maneuverability than a longboard, with more floation
than a shortboard. While many surfers find that
funboards live up to their name, providing the best of
both surfing modes, others are critical.
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There are also various niche styles, such as the
Egg, a longboard-style short board targeted for
people who want to ride a shortboard but need
more paddle power. The Fish, a board which is
typically shorter, flatter, and wider than a normal
shortboard, often with a split tail (known as a
swallow tail). The Fish often has two or four fins
and is specifically designed for surfing smaller
waves. For big waves there is the Gun, a long,
thick board with a pointed nose and tail (known
as a pin tail) specifically designed for big waves.
Surfing Training
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Surfing is a very complete sport. It requires swimming skills, sense
of balance, decision taking and constant muscle interactions.
Before hitting waves, try these physical warm up fitness
schemes to avoid injuries:
1. Go for a light jogging during four minutes. You body will start
engines and increase your heart rate, breathing and blood
circulation.
2. Swing your legs and arms.
3. Slowly try to reach your fingers to your feet.
4. Swing your leg backwards and forwards.
5. Stretch your leg muscles.
6. Rotate your head and neck.
7. Gently rotate your heel to exercise the whole foot articulation.
8. Inhale deeply and exhale vigorously a few times.
9. Make very quick and short runs back and forth.
10. Elevate your arms and join the palm of your hand above your
head, as higher as you can.
Famous Surfing Locations
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Mavericks ( California )
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4-frames image that shows the famous break of
Mavericks
Maverick's or Mavericks is a world-famous surfing
location in Northern California. It is located
approximately one-half mile (0.8 km) from shore in Pillar
Point Harbor, just north of Half Moon Bay at the village of
Princeton-By-The-Sea. After a strong winter storm in the
northern Pacific Ocean, waves can routinely crest at
over 25 feet (8m) and top out at over 50 feet (15m). The
break is caused by an unusually-shaped underwater
rock formation.
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Pipeline ( Oahu, Hawaii )
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Pipeline is a surf reef break located in Hawaii,
off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's
North Shore. The spot is notorious and famous
for its huge waves breaking in shallow water just
above its sharp and cavernous reef, forming
large, hollow and thick curls of water that surfers
can ride inside of. There are three reefs at
Pipeline in progressively deeper water further
out to sea that activate at various power levels
applied by ocean swells.
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Teahupo’o ( Tahiti )
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Teahupo’o (pronounced cho-po) is a world-renowned surfing
location off the south-west of the island of Tahiti, French Polynesia,
southern Pacific Ocean. It is known for its heavy, glassy waves,
often reaching 2 to 3 m (7 to 10 ft) and higher. It is the site of the
annual Billabong Pro Tahiti surf competition, part of the World
Championship Tour (WCT) of the ASP World Tour professional
surfing circuit.
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Zicatela Beach ( Mexican Pipeline )
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Zicatela is a beach located in the town of . Nicknamed the "Mexican
Pipeline" due to the similar power and shape of the Banzai Pipeline
on the North Shore of Oahu, the wave that breaks on Zicatela Beach
draws an international crowd of surfers, bodyboarders and their
entourages. Mid to late summer is low season for tourists, but a
prime time for waves and international tournaments. A number of
international competitions such as the , and the MexPipe Challenge
have taken place.
Surfers and Surf Culture
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Surfers represent a diverse culture based on riding the
waves. Some people practice surfing as a recreational
activity while others make it the central focus of their
lives. Within the United States, surfing culture is most
dominant in California, Florida and Hawaii. Some
historical markers of the culture included the woodie, the
station wagon used to carry surfers' boards, as well as
boardshorts, the long swim shorts typically worn while
surfing.
Surfers can be classified into 3 catorgries:
Professional(Pro), Average and Kook. A professional
surfer is someone who is very good at it and is usually
paid. An average surfer is anyone who enjoys the sport
of surfing and can stand up and turn. A kook is someone
who drops in on you(cuts you off or snakes you) or is just
a terrible surfer. As long as kooks don't get in the way of
anyone and practice they become average.
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The sport of surfing now represents a multibillion dollar industry especially in clothing and
fashion markets. Some people make a career
out of surfing by receiving corporate
sponsorships.
 When the waves were flat, surfers persevered
with sidewalk surfing, which is now called
skateboarding. Sidewalk surfing has a similar
feel to surfing and requires only a paved road or
sidewalk. To create the feel of the wave, surfers
even sneak into empty backyard swimming
pools to ride in, known as pool skating.
International Stars
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Mick Fanning
Stephanie Gilmore
Harley Ingleby
Jennifer Smith
Maxime Huscenot
Laura Enever
Joel Parkinson
Silvana Lima
Dane Reynolds
Rosanne Hodge
Kekoa Bacalso
Coco Ho
Dan Ross
Kieren Perrow
Layne Beachley
Kelly Slater and others
Dangers
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Drowning
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Surfing, like all water sports, carries the inherent danger of
drowning. Although the board assists a surfer in staying buoyant, it
cannot be relied on for floation, as it can be separated from the
user.[8] The leash, which is attached at the ankle or knee, keeps the
surfer connected to the board for convenience but does not prevent
drowning. The established rule is that if the surfer cannot handle the
water conditions without his or her board then he or she should not
go in.
Some drownings have occurred as a result of leashes tangling with
reefs, holding the surfer underwater. In very large waves such as
Waimea or Mavericks, a leash may be undesirable, because the
water can drag the board for long distances, holding the surfer
underneath the wave.
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Collisions
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A surfer exiting a closeout
Under the wrong set of conditions, anything that a surfer's body can
come in contact with is potentially a danger, including sand bars,
rocks, reefs, surfboards, and other surfers.[9] Collisions with these
objects can sometimes cause unconsciousness, or even death.
Many surfers jump off bridges, buildings, wharves and other
structures to reach the surf. If the timing is wrong they can either
damage themselves or their equipment, or both.[10]
A large number of injuries, up to 66%,[11] are caused by collision
with a surfboard (nose or fins). Fins can cause deep lacerations and
cuts, as well as bruising. While these injuries can be minor, they can
open the skin to infection from the sea; groups like Surfers Against
Sewage campaign for cleaner waters to reduce the risk of infections.
Falling off a surfboard, colliding with others, or hurting oneself whilst
surfing is commonly referred to as a wipeout.
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Marine life
Sea life can sometimes cause injuries and even fatalities. Animals
such as sharks,[12] stingrays, seals and jellyfish can sometimes
present a danger.[13]
Rip Currents
Riptides endanger both experienced and inexperienced surfers. Rip
currents are water channels that flow away from shore. Since these
currents lurk in seemingly calm waters, tired or inexperienced
swimmers or surfers can easily be swept away.[14]
Seabed
The Seabed can pose dangers for the surfers. If a surfer is to fall
while riding a wave, the wave will then toss him around, usually
downwards. Whether it'd be a reef break or beach break, plenty of
surfers have been seriously injured or even died because of the
great collision with the bottom of the sea. Seabeds can get very
shallow, especially, on beach breaks, during low tide. Take Cyclops
in Western Australia for example. This is one of the biggest and
thickest reef breaks in the world, with waves measuring up to 10
metres high. Yet, the reef below is only about 2 metres deep.
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I decided to present surfing because in my opinion,
surfing is one of the best extreme sports! It contains
everything I want, like danger, challenge, and it is very
enjoyable... I believe, without these characteristics there
is no interest in a sport! Although, there are many
dangers in surfing, I like it very much because I love
risks and I want to face many challenges. I think that
surfing and surfing tests help me learn how to cope with
the difficulties and challenges of any uncomfortable
situation as life is full of not easy moments.
Unfortunately, I don’t have enough time to involve with
more sports even though I know that practicing in sports
benefits our health.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Equipment
http://www.surfertoday.com/surf-training
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Famous_surf
ing_locations
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Surfers_and
_surf_culture
 http://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/3022-surfingstars-honoured-at-the-gold-coast-conventioncentre
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surfing#Dangers