November,
2014
201
Wine EXchangeStock Report
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NO
NEWS
&
Wine of the Month
GOOD
NEWS
CASCINA
LIUZZI
BARBERA
Pursuant
to
its
announcement
D’ASTI
Otto
2011-We
2011We
look
for
value
inthethefactlastthatnewsletter
about
allbecome
ll of the
thea little
time
time.
.
But
at
this
time
of
year
‘profiles’
it
would
be
littl
e
more
important
because
because,
,
i
if
f
it’s
a
red,
vacat
ing
these
particular
itwithhastheto varied
be something
that
is
versatile
to
play
along
premises,
brokers
at
the
foods
of
the
season.
This
year
we
Wine
Exchange
may
have
adde
d
a
few
weeks
to
the
got
particularly
lucky.
This
gregariously
fruit
driven
process.
The
good
news
Barbera
has
the
forward
demeanor
to
play
in
place
of
ispossibility
that therethatis ana move
excellent
amoxie
PiPinot
nottoNoir
with
festive
fowl
present
presentations,
ations,
but
the
date
stand
up
to
last
night’s
pizza,
all
at
a
price
will
push
into
the
mid-Q1
that
makes
it
easy
to
plug
in
any
anywhere.
where.
We
can’t
tell
time
frame.
This
still
does
you
s
stories
tories
of
our
long
history
with
Cascina
Liuzzi.
not
change
the
need
for
Heck
they
only
bought
this
estate
in
2000
and
hold
orders
to
be
promptly
started
making
wine
commercially
in
2011.
The
Liuzzi
shipped
by
years
end
and
purchased
this
farmho
farmhouse
use
located
in
Monferrato,
inwillallariselikelihood
a
scenario
where
Bar
Barbera
bera
pla
plan
nted
ted
in
sandy,
clay
soil
soils
s
does
where
we
will
not
extremely
well.
They
only
make
a
few
hundred
cases
bemore.taking
hold
orders
any
from
grapes
hand
harvested
carefully
into
small
crates.
In
the
mean
time,
the
This
i
is
s
a
DOCG
area
(the
top
status)
and
is
a
good
news
is
pretty
much
Superiore
(which
means
it
must
attain
an
alcohol
level
full
speed
ahead
through
ofofficial
12.5%sounding
and see stuff
six months
in
barrel).
Now
all
of
that
the
remainder
of
the
year,
makes
this
a
pretty
exciting
with
a
few
modifications.
As
to
the
whereabouts
of
value
for
this
kind
of
price,
but
th
that’s
at’s
not
why
we
aoffered,
new location,
one
broker
bought
it.
We
moved
on
this
on
one
e
because
it
is
one
of
“No
news
there
the
ju
juiciest
iciest
examples
we
have
tasted
all
year
and
the
yiset.satisfactory
yet.
Wh
Whenen we find
one
that
price
was
a
bonus.
The
nose
flaunts
r
red
ed
berries,
spice
and
lock
locked
ed
and
a
whiff
of
minerality.
I
In
n
the
mouth
it
is
pac
packed
ked
down,
we
will
announce
it
with
fruit
character
that
is
pure,
unadulter
unadulterated,
ated,
and
to everyone.
Why
wouldn’t
even
joyous.
We
got
i
it
t
in
the
day
before
our
Italian
we?
But
a
move
in
the
tasting
and
it
was
the
hit
if
the
show.
A
plush
plush,
,
‘alcohol
business’
is
more
outgoing
red
at
this
kind
of
price,
wh
why
y
wouldn’t
it
complicated
than
most,
and
begenerous
be?
? It plays
to
the
casual
quaffer
by
virtue
of
its
most
rental
spaces
are
too
fruit
forward
natu
re,
but
has
a
very
slight
small
or
too
expensive
for
nip
of
ripe
tannins
in
the
finish
and
streaks
of
terroir
‘t
rue’
discount’
retail.
Still
to speak of its origins. A crowd pleaser. . . 9.99 we’ll press on.”
Wine EXchange
Random Ramblings
2
HAMILTON RUSSELL CHARDONNAY Hemel-en-Aarde Valley 2013 -South Africa has never really
materialized as the next big trend, and a lot of retailers don’t even bother with the genre. Admittedly it
hasn’t been the easiest sell, but there are a few wines that have established a following. No matter what
region the wine is from, even these wines where the vines are grown right next to whales (Walker Bay is a
breeding ground for Southern Right Whales), it’s all about the juice for us. Take a quick look at the wines’
track record, and you will see that Hamilton Russell has definitely gotten the hang of their “stony, clay-rich,
shale-derived soil.” This wine’s apple, peach, lemon custard fruit and streaks of minerality come off almost
like a Puligny. Wine Spectator just gave the 2013 Hamilton Russell Hemel-en-Aarde Valley Chardonnay a
“Smart Buys” 93-point review. If that doesn’t impress you, perhaps you should take a good look at its score
history with the publication. In addition to continuously scoring 90 points or more since their ‘98 vintage,
their Chardonnay has been awarded the “Smart Buys” designation twice, the “Highly Recommended”
designation thrice, and made the annual “Top 100” list twice. Can you name another Chardonnay with
this many accolades? Plus this stacks up as quite a bargain compared to ‘real’ Burgundies. . . . .$23.99
QUINTA DO CRASTO DOURO Old Vines Reserva 2011- Crasto was the wine that introduced us to the
whole dry Douro thing some two decades ago. The whole genre has come a long way since those early days but
Crasto is still one of the notable players. If you’ll recall all of the fuss about vintage Ports early this year, you
know that 2011 was a special year in the region. The ‘drys’ are as significant as the Port and, for Crasto, this
one is another winner in a long line of successes, this one in particular an Advocate 94 and Spectator 92. Thisa
is a field blend of as many as 20-30 different varietals (things like Touriga Nacional and Tinto Roriz that they
use in Port) harvested from 70-year- old vines (when these guys say ‘old vines’ they aren’t ‘embellishing’). In
the cellar this Reserva sees 18-months in a combination of French (85%) and American (15%) oak barrels, twothirds new. This wine’s big, ripe, plummy midpalate would appeal to New World palates but there’s enough
elegance here to satisfy the euro-fans as well. Pretty likeable stuff and a good price performer as well.. . . $32.99
GUIGAL CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 2007- What, 2007? That’s right, an aged Chateauneuf from a respected
house from one of the greatest vintages for Chateauneuf, with the added bonus of bottle age. How do we do
it? We didn’t do anything but buy as much of this as we could. Guigal likes to give his Chateauneuf extended
time in barrel. Also, because he is a pretty big operation, he makes a good bit of high quality stuff. This
2007 Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape is composed of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% other
Rhône varietals. This lively, tender-edged Châteauneuf has plenty of black and red fruits mixed with Herbes
de Provence and that textbook Southern Rhône garrigue. The extended élevage has given this weighty wine
a supple, creamy mouthfeel, and allowed the nose to develop some nuance. In fact, it’s pretty hard to fault
this wine on any level. It may be an even better choice in today’s market than it was when we offered it six
months ago because there are fewer great vintage Châteauneufs available. Robert Parker calls it the “greatest
Chateauneuf made by Guigal. We say drink it, age it . . . just don’t miss it. A great holiday find. . . ..$39.99
TWO HANDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON Sexy Beast McLaren Vale 2012- A lot of folks still aren’t paying
attention to Australia, and that’s too bad. There are still a lot of serious wines coming from there and the
labels that have established themselves are well worth following. The characters at Two Hands are among
them and Australia is a great place for...Cabernet? Yes, mates, Cabernet is alive and well in Oz and offers
a tasty alternative to some of the expensive local produce from the North Coast. They are different birds
though, with the Aussie version having bold flavors but being a touch brighter, more energetic, and a little
less dense. This Spectator 93 was described as “Ripe, round and generous, with raspberry and black cherry
fruit at the core, shaded by spicy, toasty, herbal nuances. Has depth and presence, and the finish doesn’t quit.”
Throw in a little lavender and bay leaf and you’ve got a pretty good picture of this little gem. . . . . . . . $26.99
RARE WINE CO BALTIMORE RAINWATER HISTORIC SERIES MADEIRA- Every back bar should
have a fine Madeira, maybe several representing a variety of styles. It’s delicious, and it is indestructible. So
you can have a glass and have another in a month. That’s why it was the most prestigious of beverages for
our founding fathers. But for now let’s talk about this one. First, unfortunately, in the 20th century the name
“Rainwater” became bastardized--used to label inexpensive Madeiras that were too sweet and too soft to have
anything in common with the great Rainwaters of the past. Essentially ‘classic’ Rainwaters have a medium
dry base (Verdelho) and are topped off with an aged sweeter style. There a little sweet raisin and fig up front
and then it settles back into an elegant; off-dry finish. Flavorful with an acidity that keeps it light on its feet.
A delightful way to finish the day and, accurately in the importer’s words, a Madeira of ethereal body, great
finesse, delicate flavors and just a touch of sweetness. We have a number of other versions as well. . . . . .$39.99
Wine EXchange
Briefs
-in theot geeks,
-Pin
we
just
got
very Burgundian
Ridge
Hidden
Block
and
Spri
n
g
Ri
d
ge
Vi
n
eyard.
They
showed
beautifully
at
our
Pinot
event
and
really
are
‘Burgundian’
efforts.
-taking
Corlisscare isof definitely
business
withCabernet
their new2009releases,
(W
95+)
Red
2009
(WS
94).
Philippe
Melka
inThe
the house
here.
2013represent
Ken Wright
another
excellent,
,
well-delineated
vintage
so
play
early.
Watch
fortheourweekon-line
special
offer
of
Nov.
3.
-Under
Under
the
heading
of
wicked,
whacky
whites
whites,
,
we’
v
e
got
a
couple
of
wi
n
ners
from
Italy.
First
up
is
aBisiancongleVorberg
terrain from
2011Canti
Pinnota
Terl
a
no
($29.
9
9).
An
Advocate
94,
i
t
s
dense,
layered
and
quisurete wemincanerally.even explai
We’ren thenot
Quintodecimo 2013
Fi
a
no
di
($43.99).
Rare,
extracted,
mineral
driven,
steroids.it’s like Fiano on
3
IN ORDER FOR US TO STAGE THE BEST POSSIBLE EVENT AT THE BEST PRICE, WE HAVE A FEW RULES.
. .ADVANCE RESERVATIONS ARE STRONGLY SUGGESTED/ NO PERFUME OR COLOGNE PLEASE/ PRICES
QUOTED ARE FOR ADVANCE RESERVATIONS/ PRICES MAY VARY ON THE DAY OF THE EVENT/ IT’S
ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO CALL TO BE SURE THERE IS SPACE. …NO ‘SHARING’ TASTES/TICKETS, ONLY
ONE PERSON ADMITTED TO DESIGNATED TASTING AREA PER TICKET, SALES TAX WILL BE ADDED,
ENDING TIMES ARE FIRM, CANCELLATIONS MUST BE 48HR IN ADVANCE, “NO SHOWS” ARE NOT
ENTITLED TO REFUNDS AS WE VIEW RESERVATIONS LIKE TICKETS TO A SHOW OR SPORTING EVENT.
ENTIT
(G)= ‘Grande Format’ Event of 17-20 Wines, (M)=’
(M)=’Mezzo’
Mezzo’ Event of 12-16 Wines, (S)=’Small’ Event of 1-12 Wines
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 1, 2014 (G)
ESPAÑA UNA VEZ MAS
12:00-5:00
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2014 (G)
RHONE AND THE SUD: LE RODÉO FINAL
12:00-5:00
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 2014 (G)
CHAMPAGNE AGAIN
12:00-5:00
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 22, 2014 (G)
LOOTERS’ BALL: PART ONE
12:00-5:00
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 29, 2014 (G)
OVER ‘90’/UNDER $30
12:00-5:00
SATURDAY, DECEMBER 6, 2014 (G)
NE PLUS ULTRA: 95 POINTS AND UP
12:00-5:00
$79
If there is to be a last theme tasting in the building, let it be an ode to Spain.
It’s our favorite show to do and, since it falls on the day of Mr. and Mrs.
Answerman’s 40th anniversary, all the better. We’re going to ‘bring it’
as we always do with crisp whites, a sherry or two, and a variety of reds.
There will be Rioja, Ribera, tapas, and all kinds of other tasty stuff. Esto
es vivir, cost is $25.
This aisle is poppin’ with all kinds of goodies and has been for a long while,
so it’s time to pay our respects one more time and then, of course, there
will be deals to. We’d are particularly excited about the ‘super-Suds’ from
producers like Puech Haut and there will be Rhones both great and small. So
maybe we changed our minds about no more theme tastings. After all we’re
showing up for work anyway. $25
It seems like only yesterday we said, “What better way to finish off our
anniversary month than with a little bubbly. It’s a little earlier than we
usually do one of our signature and most popular events but we wanted
to make sure we got it on the schedule early this year.” Well, guess what?
We have found enough cool, personality filled, distinctive Champagnes
to support another tasting. Once again, we are going to hone in on small
grower/producers because that’s where the excitement is to us. We could
rattle off some names (Guy Charlemagne, Ruelle-Pertois, Voirin-Jumel, De
Sousa), but we doubt that would mean a lot to most folks. Most of these
producers don’t pass out Champagne buckets in restaurants or advertise in
magazines, they just make very distinctive bubbly and that’s what counts.
Cost is $39
So begins the winding down process and what better way to kick off ‘the
season’ than with a few ‘taste and steal’ (as in crazy prices) exercises in
the comfort of Winex Uncorked. We’ll be all over the place with this one
with the intention of moving some piles out the door so we don’t have to
move them later. There will be some juicy buys from a variety of different
categories. The cost of the tasting is a modest $20 but it will be well worth
the fare even without counting in the savings on the deals.
What to do after Thanksgiving? Well how about a lineup that got 90 or better
from Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator (maybe even a few Top 100 wines),
James
mes Suckling, Burghound, Tanzer, or Decanter
Decanter, all that sell for less than $30.
There are no guarantees in life, yada yada, but if you can’t find something
exciting in this varied and approved lineup, you’re not trying. $19.
4
Wine EXchange bargains under $20
COLUMBIA
CREST
H3
CABERNET
Horse
Heaven
Hills
2012
-If
If
you
were
to
create
a
surefire
seller
from
scratch,
it
would
pretty
much
go
like
this:
Start
with
apublication
ppopular
opular (like
varietal
(
(like
like
Cabernet),
give
it
a
compelling
review
from
a
major
92
points
from
Wine
Spectator),
make
sure
it’s
at
a
price
that
can
reach
the
broadest
audience
(under
$10
would
definitely
fit
the
bill),
and
behold,
we
have
a
winner!
Today’s
feature
has
the
added
bonus
of
being
made
byA lota familiar,
trusted
source
for
value:
The
“H3”
lineup
from
Columbia
Crest.
of H3 wines have passed through these doors over the years, and the line
has
garnered
numerous
90-point
scores
on
various
wines
since
2005.
However,
this
level
of
score
for
the
2012
Columbia
Crest
H3
Cabernet
Sauvignon
(WS
92,
$9.99)
is
a
first
for
the
line,
and
proves
once
again
that
size
does
matter.
This
isanda pretty
substantial
mouthful
for
a
wine
of
this
modest
fare,
sporting
a
deep
color
plenty
of
flavor.
Purists
might
say
it
could
be
more
complex,
but
this
wine
wasn’t
maAmerican
de for contemplating
Kafka.
Rather
it
will
serve
you
well
with
classic
fare
like
beef
or
burgers.
That,
good
people,
is
the
point,
and
this
is
one
of
those
“back
up
the
trucks”
kind
of
buys..
.
.
.
.9.99
9.99
SHATTER
GRENACHE
2011-It’s
2011It’s
hard
to
know
where
to
start.
Some
folks
might
even
wonder
why
this
isn’t
in
the
‘domestic’
section
given
it
its
s
All-American
cast
cast.
.
You’ve
got
Dave
Phinney,
he
of
The
Prisoner
and
more
recently
a
spate
of
‘terroir’
driven
projects
from
various
locations
in
Europ
Europe
e
designated
with
single
letters.
Shatter
would
fall
into
the
la
latter
tter
group
intheterms
of
intent,
except
that
it
has
a
complete
name.
This
project
focuses
on
r
rugged
ugged
hills
around
Maury
in
the
Roussillon.
Shatter,
with
its
completely
stealth,
artsy
label,
is
a
collaboration
of
Phinney
with
Joel
Gott,
also
a
winemaker
of
some
repute
(as
well
as
a
champion
of
grand
burgers),
and
the
Trinch
Trinchero
ero
family
(who
make
LOTS
of
wine).
This
particular
effort
focuses
onstuf
what
is
arguably
the
premier
grape
of
the
region,
Grenache.
Grenac
he.
It’s
all
the
right
stuff,
f,
from
60-year
old
vines
planted
on
hillsides
comprised
of
black
schist.
The
name
comes
from
the
malady
‘shatter,
known
in
Fre
French
nch
as
‘coulure
’
,
where
the
weather
phenomenons
cause
the
grape
clusters
to
lose
berries.
This
help
concentrate
the
remaining
fruit.
The
resulting
wine
is
a
lavish
mouthful
of
dense
red
fruits
fruits,
,
fairly
low
acidity,
and
layers
of
flavors.
As
to
the
terroir
thing, does it remind us of famous locals like Gauby and Tribouley? Not
exac
exactly.
tly.
But
it’s
a
rich,
generous,
delicious
transitional
interpretation
that
will find many friends and it’s a pretty fine value as well that will go famously
with one of Joel’s Western Bacon Blue Ring Burgers. . . . . . . 16.99
5
Wine EXchange bargains under $20
TALMARD
MACON
VILLAGES
2013-This
2013
-This
This
little
Macon
Chardonnay
has
been
the
‘little
engine
that
coul
d’
for
a
long
time
now.
The
2013
isinsistent
a fine effort
with
fresh
citrus
and
pear
fruit
played
against
the
subtle-butminerality
of
the
terroir.
This
famil
family
y
estate
is
located
in
the
village
of
Chardonnay
(yes,
there
is
such
a
place)
and
has
been
producing
its
own
wine
since
the
mid-70s.
Part
of
their
success
is
due
to
their
conscienti
conscientious
ous
farming
and
attention
to
detail.
But
valuer
plays
an
important
part
in
the
process
as
well
and part of that is that it is directly imported and sold as opposed to having an
additional
marketing
arm
that
adds
cost.
For
that
reason
not
as
many
people
may
know
Talmard,
but
but,
,
price-wise,
it’s
probably
better
that
way.
A
clean,
honest,
versatile,
interesting
wine
for
a
reasonable
price?
Imagine.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.9.99
9.99
BAUMARD
SAVENNIERES
2010
-Baumard
Baumard
will
always
becompelling,
special here
because
the
winery
(and
their
diverse
assortment
of
styles
from
minerally
dry
whites
to
zingy
desserts)
provided
us
with
one
of
those
“Aha!”
moments
many
years
ago.
We
credit
them
directly
for
opening
our
eyes
to
the
world
of
Loire
wines.
Dry
Chenin
Blancs
are
particularly
tricky,
but
in
exceptional
years
like
2010,
they
can
be
alarmingly
good.
We’ve
been
waiting
for
these
dry
versions
of
Baumards
to
come
along
since
we
starting
tasting
from
the
vintage
a
couple
of
years
ago.
The
2010
Baumard
Savennieres
ispeara classic
rendition.
The
nose
shows
chalky
minerality
vying
for
attention
with
and
honeyed
notes.
In
the
mouth,
there
is
pear,
quince,
saline
notes,
and
again,
insistent
minerality.
The
trick
is
to
have
both
zip
and
enough
flesh,
and
this
one
succeeds
beautifully.
These
age
in
the
intermediate
term,
and
the
wines
relax
to
develop
some
earthy
nuance.
This
is
a
pure,
unfettered,
bright
wine
with
a
Spectator
91
that
sells
for
under
$20.
.
.
.
.
.
17.99
LAFAGE
NOVELLUM
CHARDONNAY
2013-It
2013It
seems
as
if
Jean
Jean-Marc
-Marc
has
some
kind
of
magic
‘touch’
these
days...everything
hemighttouches
gets
90
poi
points
nts
or
better.
Now
admittedly
there
will
be
those
who
not take the 92-point score on this $10 Chardonnay at face value. We
didn’t
until
we
tasted
it.
But
let
us
assure
that
this
is
the
best
version
of
this
wine
we’ve
ha
had.
d.
There’s
on
unctuousness
to
this
Chardonnay
that
is
rare
for this price point and a pretty glycerin-rich, almost New World palate feel
that
sits
atop
just
the
right
amount
of
bright
acidity.
This
surprising
(the
review
used
the
term
‘serious’)
wine
is
aged
three
months
(on
Viognier
lees)
in
a
combination
of
Burgundy
barrels
and
stainless
steel
.
Great
aromatics
aromatics,
,
pear,
peach,
pistachio, and floral notes, this is quite the eye opener. ‘...a crazy value. . .9.99
Wine EXchange
6
PAGO DE LOS CAPELLANES RIBERA DEL DUERO
Crianza 2010-Pago
Pago de los Capellanes has about as long a history here. We
bought the first vintage to come to the U.S. more than a decade ago when it was presented to
us by a tiny, new Spanish wine importer called Antalva. When you’ve been doing this as long
as we have, you run across wines that clearly play at another level. That’s how we felt when
we first tasted these Ribera del Dueros. Impressive terroir, ample and fleshy on the palate
. . . this was a Spanish wine that could play to both “New World” and “Old World” audiences
alike. In our minds, the 2010 Pago de los Capellanes Ribera del Duero Crianza is the
best example of this wine we can recall. The notes from both International Wine Cellar and
Wine Spectator are surprisingly consistent in their enthusiasm for this 2010 bottling
bottling,,
but we are a little didisappointed
sappointed with the num
numerical
erical score
scoress (not that dual 91s is bad). Keep
in mind, however, that both reviews were rendered in late 2013 (almost a year ago), so we
can’t imagine how wound up the wine was back then since it is still big and somewhat coiled
now. Read the words, ““Glass-staining ruby. Deeply pitched dark berry and incense
scents are enlivened by cracked pepper and smoky minerals. Rich and fresh on the palate,
offering sweet blackberry and cherry compote flavors complicated by vanilla, mocha and
candied rose. Showing its oak today, which is no surprise given its youth. Finishes sweet,
spicy and long, with a touch of smokiness.” This is a blockbuster wine for us that rivals
the breakout 2001 vintage, and will ultimately be even better. You’d be hard-pressed to
find something more expressive and compelling at this kind of price. If we scored things
at all, this one would have gotten a higher mark from us. A serious effort. . . .28.99
.28.99
LUZON VERDE JUMILLA 20132013-Luzon
Luzon was an early stop on a trip
to Spain some years ago. We remember three things vividly. The terrain looks a lot like the
dessert area outside of Palm Springs. The two towns we went through look
lookeded kind of like sets for
a ‘spaghetti western’. They made some
some pretty serious wines fforor not a lot of money. Luzon was one of
the early Jumillas in the Spanish invasion of the mid-90s. Luzon Verde
Verde is a relatively new bottling
of 100% Monastrell
Monastrell (Mourvedre) that is farmed under organic principles and, in fact, calls
calls itself
organic. For a lot of folks that alone is a big deal. But it isn’t for us unless we like the wine. This
organic.
one is the best of both worlds. Plump, easy drinking red and black fruits, the kind of ripeness this
varietal achieves few other places, and a pretty spectacular price. The name of the wine is Luzon
Verde, or Green Luzon. But they
they referring there to the wines environmentally friendly
upbringing, not
not to some underripe character
character in the wine. It’s a juicy value. . . .7.99
.7.99
DUQUESA VERDEJO 20132013-This
This is the second time we have offered
this surprising little Verdejo from Rueda. Fresh
Fresh,, bright melon, quince and lime flavors
flavors,,
surprising texture and weight, and a lively palate feel, you wouldn’
wouldn’tt guess from tasting
it that it only cost eight buck
bucks.s. For whatever reason, you also likely wouldn’t guess
this was made by Rioja stalwart Bodegas Lan as it doesn’t look like any of their other
stuff. A delicious quaff, very versatile with food, we like this 2013 a lot. . .7.99
7
Wine EXchange
JValley
JOSEPH
OSEPH2012PHELPS
CABERNET
SAUVIGNON
Napa
2012-T
The
T
he
2012
Joseph
Phelps
Napa
Valley
Cabernet
Sauvignon
was
just
released.
This
isn’t
your
father’s
Phelps
Cabernet
as
they
switched
their
Cab
program
a
couple
of
vintages
ago,
and
are
now
using
entirely
estate-grown
fruit
for
their
Napa
Valley
bottling.
We
tasted
this
side-by-side
with
their
flagship
wine,
the
2011
Insignia
(current
release).
At
less
than
one-third
of
the
price
of
Insignia,
the
2012
Cab
easily
held
its
own
(in
fact,
it
was
more
impressive).
For
the
statisticians
out
there,
t
he
2012
is
91%
Cabernet
Sauvignon,
6%
Merlot,
1%
Petit
Verdot,
1%
Malbec
and
1%French,
Cabernet
Franc
that
sees
eighteen
months
in
40%
new
oak
barrels
(50%
50%
American)
and
60%
two-year-old
French
and
American
oak
barrels.
Antonio
Galloni
says
of
this,
“
“A
A
beautiful,
layered
wine,
the
2012
Cabernet
Sauvignon
wraps
around
the
palate
with
gorgeous
depth.
Radiant,
expressive
and
nuanced,
the
2012
captures
the
essence
of
the
year
in
its
generous,
inviting
personality.
Soft,
silky
tannins
frame
the
voluptuous
finish.
”
He
put
a
91-93
barrel
score
on
this
one
that
we
sus
suspect
pect
will
be
the
first
of
many.
You
fans
of
Joseph
Phelps
will
definitely
want
to
stock
up
onMAISON
this one asL’ENVOYE
this is the bestPINOT
regular CabNOIR
they’veTwo
had inMessengers
years. . . 59.99
59.99
Willamette
2012-You
2012You
have
probably
heard
the
buzz
by
now
about
how
good
the
2012
vintage
is
for
Oregon
Pinot
Noirs,
and
quite
frankly,
we
cannot
think
of
a
better
vintage
to
introduce
a
remarkable
new
Pinot
Noir
from
the
Northwest.
Before
we
get
to
the
wines,
there
is
a
captivating
story
which
impressed
us
and
the
media
as
well.
To
say
the
least,
the
cast
is
very
colorful,
as
well
as
accomplished.
Some
of
the
key
players
in
this
new
project
are
Mark
Tarlov
(a
co-founder
of
Evening
Land),
Becky
Wasserman
(an
American-born,
Burgundy-importing
legend),
and
Gavin
Speight
(the
Wine
and
Marketing
Director
of
Australian
importer,
Old
Bridge
Cellars).
The
onsite
winemaker
is
Mike
D.
Etzel,
who
is
the
son
of
Mike
G.
Etzel
(part
owner
ofAdvocate).
Beaux Freres
along
with
a
wine
writer
named
Robert
Parker
for
The
Wine
Apparently
that
kind
of
Pinot
star
power
wasn’t
enough,
so
they
enlisted
consulting
winemaker
Louis-Michel
Liger-Belair
(owner/winemaker
atBurgundy
Domaine du
Comte
Liger-Belair
in
Vosne-Romanée,
and
studied
under
legend
Henri
Jayer).
‘Messengers’
is
a
great
ambassador
for
the
brand.
There’s
plenty
of
layered,
sweet,
expressive
cherry
and
currant
fruit
that
has
both
density
and
lift.
Yet
the
wine
is
light
on
its
feet
at
every
point.
With
a
Wine
Spectator
92
and
International
Wine
Cellar
91,
the
wine’s
vigor,
purity,
and confectionery ripe flavors will definitely make a lot of friends. . . . 24.99
8
Wine EXchange
IL
MOLINO
DI
GRACE
CHIANTI
CLASSICO
2010It
has
been
quite
a
good
time
for
Chianti
of
late.
In
fact
we
look
a
little
like
the
Chianti
Exchange.
We
shouldn’t
have
to
pratter
on
about
the
2010
vintage
inexample.
Tuscany
at
this
point.
It
has
been
quite
a
ride.
Here
is
another
distinctive
The
2010
Il
Molino
di
Grace
Chianti
Classico
is
made
entirely
from
Sangiovese
(100%),
sourced
from
30-year-old
vines.
The
native
galestro
soil
(marl
and
limestone)
is
definitely
in
play
here,
giving
the
wine
that
special
minerality
found
in
the
Chianti
Classico
terroir.
The
wine
sees
11
months
in
steel
vats,
Slavonian
oak
casks,
and
2nd-use
French
tonneaux.
Decanter
Magazine
gave
it
95
points
points,
,
which
made
us
a
little
skeptical.
It
seems
like
there
has
been
a
little
‘inflation’
lately
with
respect
to
scores.
As
always,
we
had
to
taste
the
wine
for
ourselves.
This
Chianti
unfolds
to
textbook
notes
ofherbs.
cherries,
plums,
and
strawberries
mixed
with
spice
box,
tobacco,
and
wild
It
really
began
to
bloom
after
30
minutes,
almost
in
a
manner
similar
to
asurrounded
classic Rioja,
where
a
sweet
core
of
plum
and
dark
fruits
come
to
the
fore
by
herbs
and
spice.
This
is
a
gorgeous
little
Chianti
you
can
almost
drink
alone.
Can’t
fault
the
Brits
on
this
one!
Simply
put,
this
is
a
lot
ofpurchase,
wine fordropping
the money!theWeprice
werebyableone-third
to move onfrom
this its
one original
and negotiate
a
special
release
cost.
This
is
one
of
those
no-brainer
deals
for
you
Chianti
lovers.
You
have
a
killer
Chianti
Classico
with
all
the
stuffing
from
the
heralded
2010
vintage
for
under
$15!
Case
buy,
anyone?.
..
.
.
14.99
COLLAZZI
ROSSO
TOSCANA
LIBERTA
2011We
found
this
wine
kind
of
by
accident.
Just
goes
to
show
you
wine
can
be
a
game
of
inches.
It
started
back
when
we
were
tasted
on
this
wine’s
b
bigger
igger
sibling
aeffort
vintageit is.back.WeIt’s
hard
to
tell
sometimes
from
just
looking
at
a
bottle
what
level
of
had
never
seen
the
Collazzi
wines
before
and
really
got
knocked
out
by
the
‘Collazi’
2010
bottling.
Not
being
at
all
familiar
with
the
line
we
ran
across
a
review
for
the
Collaz
Collazzi
zi
Liberta
and
wondered
why
the
price
listed
was
so
much
less
than
we
had
paid.
The
supplier
was
new
to
the
line
as
well,
so
there
was
awelittle
confusion
before
we
figured
out
that
Liberta
was
a
different
wine.
Because
were
so
impressed
with
the
Collazzi
“Collaz
“Collazzi’
zi’
we
decided
the
junior
ver
version
sion
was
definitely
worth
exploring,
if
only
based
on
the
‘serious
producers
make
good
little
wines
too.’
Lo
and
behold,
this
delicious
blend
of
‘55%
Merlot,
30%
Syrah
and
15%
Sangiovese
all
from
estate
fruit,
is
a
polished,
surprisingly
classy
bottle
for
the
price.
Think
of
th
this
is
like
you
would
a
good
rosso
di
Montalcino
from
a
an
n
accomplished
house,
except
that
i
it
t
has
a
darker
fruit
component.
A
James
Suckling
91, he calls it a ‘fun blend’. It definitely plays above it’s station. . .16.99
9
Wine EXchange
SAN
FABIANO
CALCINAIA
CHIANTI
CLASSICO
Cellole
R
Riserva
iserva
2007
-The
The
2007
San
Fabiano
Calcinaia
Cellole
Chianti
Classic
Riserva
is
one
of
the
more
hedonistic
Chiantis
we
have
tasted
in
a2007
while. There’s
no
doubt
the
quality
is
due
to
the
riper,
somewhat
American-esque
vintage,
and
the
extra
time
in
the
bottle.
One
can
certainly
understand
why
above
from
James
Suckling
called
Cellole,
“one
of
my
favorite
Chianti
Classicos”,
and
we
would
add
an
exclamation
mark
to
his
quote
for
this
2007
vintage.
This
wine
still
sports
a
dark,
nearly
opaque
color,
with
a
surprisingly
fleshy
mouth
feel
for
a
Chianti.
It
boasts
layered,
sweet
fruits
punctuated
by
notes
of
balsamico,
wild
herbs,
and
savory
oak
notes.
This
is
a
full-bodied
Chianti
with
an
almost
New
World
feel,
yet
the
nuances
are
distinctly
Tuscan.
While
some
families
here
in
Tuscany
have
been
involved
for
several
generations,
San
Fabiano
Calcinaia’s
owner
Guido
Serio
is
a
relative
newcomer,
having
only
started
in
1983.
They
are
clearly
doing
the
right
things,
however,
refurbishing
vineyards,
building
a
barrel
room,
and
retaining
Carlo
Ferrini
as
a
consultant.
Their
wines
have
also
had
a
fine
string
of
reviews
over
the
last
decade,
and
this
2007
Cellole
scored
93
points
from
James
Suckling,
which
is
an
upgrade
from
his
91-point
score
two
years
earlier
when
he
was
with
Wine
Spectator.
It
gets
an
enthusiastic
“thumbs
up”
from
us
as
an
engaging
Chianti
that’s
in
a
perfect
drinking
place
now.
This
is
a
blend
of
95%
Sangiovese
and
5%
Merlot
that
sees
18-20
months
in
new
and
once
used
oak.
Thanks
to
a
special
purchase,
we’re
bringing
it
to
you
at
the
best
price
in
the
country
country,
,
at
half
off
from
the
original
$44
release
price
price.
.
In
addition
to
being
both
delicious
and
a
deal,
it
isBASCIANO
also one of the few wines
you
can
buy
that
is
actually
ready
to
drink..
.
.
21.99
CHIANTI
Rufina
Riserva
2010This
i
is
s
th
the
e
more
substantial
sibling
to
the
back
page
wine
and
another
compelling
effort
from
the
201
2010
0
vintage.
Like
most
‘riservas’,
this
wine
is
only
made
in
better
vintages
via
lot
selection
and
2010
is
definitely
that
that.
.
A
blend
of
93%
Sangiovese
and
7%
Colorino,
the
winery
holds
this
wi
wine
ne
30
months
before
release.
This
modernmodern-styled
styled
Chianti
sees
fourteen
months
in
a
combination
of
half
new
and
half
‘onceused
’
French
oak,
after
which
it
rests
in
bottle.
Like
it’s
sibling,
the
Basciano
Riserva
2010
ha
has
s
a
very
fresh
fresh,
,
slippery
palate
of
blue
and
dark red frfruits
uits with a hint of vanilla. There’s a cool insistent streak
ofthegravelly
minerality
underneath
consistent
with
the
Rufina
region
and
finish
is
deceptively
long.
The
price
and
performance
for
a
‘riserva’
bottling are impressive though Chianti traditionalists might find this
one a touch too fruit driven. Hey what’s wrong with fruit?. . . .17.99
Wine EXchange
---Terms & Conditions (small print)
All prices are net, subject to stock, on 750 bottles unless otherwise indicated,
and good through 11/30/14, or until subordinated by a subsequent issue.
Although this rarely happens we have to say that prices are subject to
change without notice. This list cancels all previous lists but is viewed
by us as a demonstration list only.
only We may refuse to accept any order
for any reason at our sole discretion. We reserve the right to correct
pricing errors and limit quantities both online and in store. Sometimes
vintages change without warning. This publication is copyrighted by
Wine Exchange (c). All rights reserved. This publication may not be
copied in whole or in part without the written consent of Wine Exchange.
Copyright infringement is a criminal offense and all infringers will be
prosecuted both civilly and criminally to the fullest extent of the law. All
stated arrival dates are best estimates. Wines may be sold and delivered
only to persons at least twenty-one (21) years of age. By placing an
order, you represent yourself to be at least 21 years old, and that the
person receiving the delivered wine will also be at least 21 years old,
and that you have read, understand, and accept all of the disclaimers
herein. When your wine is delivered, the person accepting will be
required to show identification proving said individual is of legal age
(21). Should failure to show ID cause merchandise to be returned, all
return shipping costs are the responsibility of the buyer. All wines
are sold in California. Title passes to the buyer in California. We
make no representation as to the rights of anyone to import wines
to any state outside of California. The buyer is solely responsible
for the shipment of wines. By placing an order, you authorize
Wine Exchange to act on your behalf to engage a common carrier
to deliver your wine to you. It takes 5-10 working days for wine to
move across country by ground shipment from the time of pickup. If
you wish anything other than standard ground transport, you must
specify at time of order. We reserve the right to determine the propriety
of shipping instructions and may refuse to transport product if we deem
it unsafe or inappropriate. On older vintages, we make every effort to
secure wines in top condition. We do not accept questionable goods. On
wines 5 years old or more, it is the industry standard that such wines are
purchased caveat emptor, or at buyer's own risk in case of a problem. We
assume no liability for weather damage. We make every effort to insure
the best conditions for shipping wine, but cannot insure against changes
in weather. Unless SPECIFICALLY DECLINED, all orders will have
insurance charges added. The charge is $.50 per $100 and covers
breakage or loss. WEATHER DAMAGE IS NOT COVERED BY
THIS INSURANCE! Wine Exchange will cover the insurance for the
first $42 of bottle price. All “hold” orders will be charged a fee to help
defray additional storage and handling costs. In the case where wines
are short, lost, or broken, we are responsible for only the sale price of the
bottle. We will only ‘hold’ orders due to extreme weather conditions only;
we are unable to accept ‘hold’ orders for convenience’s sake alone. Any
‘hold’ orders held longer than six months are subject to additional
fees or sale at our discretion, and our maximum liability on the bottle
price in all cases is limited to no more than the original transaction
price in cash or credit. ‘Pickup’ orders must be picked up within
six weeks if the date of the order. We may assess storage fees in any
amount for ‘pickup’ orders not picked up by that deadline, or we may
cancel the order entirely at our sole discretion; restocking fees will
apply. Changes or cancellations of ‘hold’, ‘pre-arrival’ and pickup
orders are subject to a minimum restocking/cancellation fee of $25,
or 10% of the order, at our discretion. All orders are subject to our
acceptance, and acceptance of an order is in no way a guarantee that
a particular product is available. We have minimums on ‘pre-arrivals’,
‘hold’, and ‘pickup’ orders of 6 bottles or $200 as a rule, and in some
cases more. ALL ORDERS PICKED UP AT OUR LOCATION ARE
SUBJECT TO SALES TAX-NO EXCEPTIONS! If Winex failed to
add sales taxes when the order was placed, Winex reserves the right to
correct and collect any sales taxes due.
10
Value Bubbly
Yes, it’s great to talk about rare and expensive
Champagnes, maybe even pontificate on a
horizontal tasting of Grande Marques. We actually
get more of a kick finding totally satisfying and
intriguing bubblies like the grower Champagnes
we talked about on the next page. But there are far
more occasions, particularly during the season,
where you’re going to entertain a larger group of
folks that don’t necessarily take the whole wine
thing as seriously as you do. Maybe you just
want to crank out some mimosas but want to use
something you wouldn’t mind drinking by itself.
We get that, and we look just as hard for those
kinds of wine. So here are some suggestions for
those application...
AIMERY NV BRUT CREMANT DE LIMOUX
We are always looking for good, well priced
bubbly, and during the holiday season such things
are particularly handy. Sharp package, clean, sleek,
tasty bubbly and a price that’s easy to swallow, we
are quite pleased with this Cremant de Limoux
called Aimery. Limoux, in the south of France,
claims to have been making bubbly before Dom
Perignon and this sparking brut composed of 70%
Chardonnay, 20% Chenin Blanc, 5% Pinot Noir,
and 5% Mauzac has fine bubbles, clean fruit and
freshness. This compares very favorably to the
Louis Bouillot Cremant we have been selling for
years, and it a tad less expensive thanks to a recent
price increase for those wines.. . . . . . . . . . $12.99
FLOR NV PROSECCO-Prosecco has come a
long way in the marketplace since we started selling
it about ten years ago. Like a lot of categories there
is a lot of mediocre, commercial tasting stuff out
there and a few really good ones that in our minds
keep the category viable. Over the years we have
found some favorites that are here most of the time
like Nino Franco Rustico, Drusian, and, in a little
sweeter style, Bartolotti. We taste new ones all the
time but rarely add anything. This year was rare
as we added two. The Flor is the house Prosecco
served in renowned Chef Mario Batali’s restaurants.
He and partners Joe Bastianich and Lidia Bastianich
created this delicate and fruity Prosecco to serve in
restaurants like the revered Del Posto in New York.
Flor is a delicate, fragrant, and fresh sparkler full of
citrus and stone fruit flavors, with fine bubbles and
creamy mousse with little almond bite. Those who
know us also know the whole celebrity thing means
nothing to us if we don’t like the juice. But it does
‘play in Peoria’, does give the wine some buzz for
gatherings, and the simple, clean package adorned
with a single fleur presents nicely.... . . . . . .$12.99
Wine EXchange
Bubbly
11
DE SOUSA CUVEE 3A GRAND CRU NV EXTRA BRUT CHAMPAGNE-The Cuvée 3 A refers
to the three grand cru villages where the grapes come from (50% Chardonnay from Avize that is aged in
oak, 25% Pinot Noir from Ay and 25% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, both aged in tank). 100% Malolactic
Fermentation. 3 years en tirage. 3 gram dosage. This is a complex wine with aromas of mango and red
berries, candied citrus fruit and toast. All this is enriched by the butteriness of brioche and deep tones of
nougat and licorice. The mouthfeel is dense, seamless, creamy and refined. De Sousa works most of his land
with a horse and plow, passing through most vineyards five or six times a year. Treatments of the vine are
biodynamic, using various herb teas and oils to strengthen the plant’s resistance and help combat disease.
This is a small family producer with a distinct toasty/earthy style that we only discovered last year. . . . $48.99
RUELLE PERTOIS 2007 GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNE- From the villages
of Oiry, Chouilly and Cramant. 6 years on its lees before being disgorged in April 2014. 6.5 gram
dosage. Nose shows orange marmalade, lemon pith and lemon custard. A bit more developed than
the Cuvée de Reserve, with a touch of almond and a leesy/yeasty note. Good concentration of flavor
and good length. Refined bubbles, fresh ‘biscuit’ character, very elegant, this succeeds both as a
refined bubbly and a fine value in vintage dated Champagne from Grand Cru grapes. . . . . . . $39.99
PAUL DETHUNE NV BRUT CHAMPAGNE- We had this wine on the floor before but never really got
behind it. That’s why this came as a surprise recently when one of our purveyors brought in a sample of
both the Brut and the Cuvee A L’Ancienne. The surprise was that, last time around, most of us didn’t realize
just how good this bubbly was. It kind of showed up without fanfare with a bunch of other stuff and few of
the staff even knew what it was. So it sat. Now we have a much more vivid picture about how expressive
and complete Dethune is. As is often the case with the grower/producers of Champagne, the story is all
there. The family’s history in Champagne goes back to the 1600’s, the current proprietor has spent his life
tending the vineyards, the farming practices are sustainable and organic etc. For whatever reason, the juice
didn’t impress on that first pass out of the gate either. However, the second time around we experienced a
whole different wine. With a majority of Pinot Noir in the blend, the aromas gravitate towards creamy
peach and bright cherry while the palate has a fine mousse and rich texture. A pretty remarkable example
of the Grand Cru wines of Ambonnay and a go-to for quality Champagne under the $40 mark, the blend is
70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay of which 30% to 50% is reserve wine. Very elegant. . . . . . . .$37.99
GUY CHARLEMAGNE 2009 CUVEE CHARLEMAGNE GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS
CHAMPAGNE-We’ve been fans of Guy Charlemagne for a long time and his well priced, well made
Champagnes from Mesnil-Sur-Oger. Their problem has been consistency, though certainly NOT with the
bubbles but with their distribution. When we can get it we do, but this vintage bottling is the first we have
seen in some time. This cuvée comes from the Côte des Blancs villages of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger and
is only made in exceptional vintages. Harvested from the property’s best plots, this pure Chardonnay is vinified
in thermo-regulated stainless-steel. The wines went through 100% malolactic fermentation. Matured 4 years
in underground chalk cellars, this vintage shows extreme finesse and is bottled with a 6 gram dosage. We’re
going to go with the importer’s noted here because they are spot on, “From its straw yellow color come fine and
steady bubbles. It exhibits a complex nose where dried fruit (raisins and figs) mixed with candied fruit (oranges,
pineapple) that lead into a finish that is not only long but also reminiscent of slightly spicy blond tobacco.” A very
sexy bubbly that has a creaminess that makes it almost seem like there is some Pinot in it (there isn’t).. . . $48.99
CHARLES MIGNON NV BRUT GRANDE RESERVE CHAMPAGNE -This family owned Epernay house
was new to the lineup last year, but we poured it in our Champagne event in September and it jogged our memory
as to how much we liked this. The blend for the Grande Reserve is 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay.
The Pinot takes the lead role in the flavor profile with a musky dried strawberry character and a mouth filling
attack. This one has a full bodied core of fruit with a brioche character accented with notes of citrus. Fine
bead and a relatively broader, more authoritative, slightly drier palate. This wine gets overlooked in this middle
price range because it is relatively unknown with a simple package, and there are a lot really intriguing things
you can buy under the $40 mark. But it definitely delivers attention for what it delivers in the glass and when
you compare it to most of the more widely distributed, ‘branded’ Champagnes out there that cost as much,
it’s no contest. This broader shouldered bubbly also seems more suited to heartier fare than a lot of Champagnes.. . $45.99
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Feature Presentation
BASCIANO CHIANTI Rufina 2012Yes it’s front and back Italians this time around. There
no agenda, nor post-Columbus Day program. Some of you
mayy remember way back in January we said that Italy
would be one of the hot categories this year, and it has
proven to be pretty sensational. Unlike the Liuzzi on the
front page, a new pro
producer
ducer from a purveyor that is also new
in this market,
market, Basciano has been a proven performer for a
long time. What’s their secret? It’s fairly simple. They
produce high quality,
quality, modern styled Chianti from excellent
terroir in the Rufina district, typically know for ititss more
mineral marked wines. What Renzo Masi has always
been able to do iiss ratchet up the fruit compo
component
nent and give
his wines a cool polish and boisterous red and black fruit
flavors. They do this with even their ‘basic model’, and
sell it for a great price. What’s not to like? Chianti has
many stylistic faces, but Basciano has always gone for the
‘lowest common denominator’ by making something that is
outgoing and easy to drink, almost ‘slippery’ as the Aussies
might say. What’s impressive is that he can consistently
produce and appealing wine at this kind of price, but that
doesn’t taste ‘made’. His 2012,
2012, like a lot of Southern
European reds in this vintage, has a front loaded, sweet
fruit component that will win
win friends in the New World
as well as the keeping the old guard happy. . . 9.99