London’s Midtown
By acclaimed London historian Jerry White
Area map
and Midtown’s
history guide
@inmidtownbuzz
GoToMidtown
Go explore on a FREE Guided Walk
Discover Midtown on foot under the expert guidance of the
impressively well-informed Aly Mir! With over 100 different
routes under his belt, he’ll introduce you to everything from
the haunts of highwaymen to the places where Jimi Hendrix,
The Beatles and the Sex Pistols ambushed pop history.
Walks last around an hour and, for most, there’s no need to book.
They start from the information kiosk outside Holborn tube
station or from the inmidtown shop in New Oxford Street.
Pick up a programme from either place or go online to
mid.bz/towalk, make your choice and simply turn up.
So Midtown has it all: myth,
murder and riot; learning and
literature; and shops, squares and
streets revealing a fascinating
history from the end of the
seventeenth century to the
present day. There can be few more
appealing parts of London than this.
inmidtown.org/discovermidtown
What a history! This central London district
encapsulates in one small area the huge diversity of
London’s story. Midtown – the historic central areas of
Bloomsbury, Holborn and St Giles – has been at one
time or another London’s leading criminal district, a
centre of riot and turbulence, home to medicine and
the law, the capital’s great
intellectual quarter and a
seedbed of multicultural
London before the
idea found a name.
Sometimes it has
been many of these
things at once.
Midtown is a cluster of
suburbs. The most venerable is
St Giles in the Fields, an ancient country village sufficiently far
from the City to host a leper hospital from the early twelfth
century. Despite becoming a parish with a fine church rebuilt in
the eighteenth century, its reputation as an area associated with
outcasts continued as it remained populated with beggars and
the very poor, even after its absorption into London. By 1800
St Giles was known as ‘The Rookery’, a desperately poor
and violent place. Rats’ Castle, one of the biggest and most
ramshackle of the district’s many lodging houses, was to be
found in Dyott Street (1), where it is said that more murders
have taken place than in any other street in London.
A ‘St Giles Bowl’ was the last drink taken by men and women
on their way to be hanged, ceremonially presented to them
at one of the pubs near the church, latterly at one called the
Angel Inn. It’s possible that the phrase, ‘One for the Road’
was a saying that was coined here. Small surprise that this
area was at the heart of the Gordon Riots in 1780, with the
firing of Langdale’s Brewery in the High Street and the sacking
of Lord Mansfield’s house in Bloomsbury Square. The district
was eventually tamed with the clearance of part of ‘The Rookery’
for New Oxford Street in the 1840s and the spread of industrial
premises squeezing out the remaining poor by around 1880.
There were other spin-offs that have helped
Midtown cement its place in the history and
social traditions of London. First, the university
brought intellectuals from all over the world
to study or teach in the area. Surprisingly early
in the history of multicultural London, the
University Hall of Residence in Gordon Square
was home to people of many different
nationalities, all reported to be staying there
and attending courses at University College
and elsewhere in the 1880s. When Mahatma
Gandhi came to London to study law between
1888 and 1891 he ate at the Holborn
Restaurant, where Sainsbury’s now
stands opposite Holborn tube station (2).
Secondly, the district’s congenial appeal to bookish people
helped attract some of the nation’s most celebrated writers
to make a home there. Greatest of all was Charles Dickens.
He lived as a young married man in unfashionable Doughty
Street (3), where number 48 remains as a museum to
him, and on becoming famous he moved to the better-off
west area of Midtown to live in part of a grand house in
Tavistock Square. The district was later immortalised by the
‘Bloomsbury Group’ of writers centring on Virginia and
Leonard Woolf, who followed in Dickens’s footsteps to
live in Tavistock Square from 1919. Virginia had moved
into 46 Gordon Square with her siblings in 1904 with
the great economist John Maynard Keynes occupying
the same house from 1916 after they left.
Midtown’s newer suburbs were far more respectable. The old
lawyers’ chambers at Lincoln’s Inn (4), Gray’s Inn (5) and
elsewhere had long bred an association between Holborn and
‘the gentlemen of the long robe’. When London began to develop
to the north of the City in the eighteenth century it was the lawyers
who first occupied Queen Square (6), Red Lion Square (7),
Bedford Square (8), Bloomsbury Square (9), Russell Square (10)
and others: some of this legacy can be seen in the University
of Law in Store Street. Lawyers were joined by medical men
who made their own lasting heritage, most visible in the British
Medical Association headquarters in Tavistock Square
and in a cluster of hospitals, among them Great Ormond
Street Hospital for Children. This last was founded in 1851
and remains a world-renowned children’s hospital.
The connection between the great scholarly professions of law
and medicine was an important step towards the establishment
of Bloomsbury as London’s intellectual quarter. Around the same
time that the London suburbs began to grow, another culturally
important Midtown institution began to develop: in 1755 a
great mansion, Montagu House, was acquired to house the
first collections of what was soon to become the British Museum.
The old house was demolished and replaced in 1852 by Robert
Smirke’s present building, housing among its global collections
one of the world’s greatest libraries. It was in its celebrated
round Reading Room that Karl Marx researched his influential
critique of capitalism.
The British Museum and its collections made Bloomsbury the
natural place to root a university in the capital. The shameful lack
of a university in London had been felt for many generations
before the well-known lawyer Henry Brougham began a movement
to found one in 1825. It led to the opening of what is now
University College London three years later. Over a century
later Charles Holden’s Senate House provided London
University with its headquarters in Art Deco Portland stone.
Birkbeck College, London’s evening university which was
established in 1823, moved nearby in the 1950s, with much of
the western area of Midtown now dominated by the university,
its colleges, schools and institutes. The many bookshops are still
to be found nearby, serving the huge numbers of students and
scholars that have clustered here for generations.
Inevitably, Midtown suffered from bomb damage during the
two world wars. In September 1915 a Zeppelin raid hit
Red Lion Street (11), where the Dolphin public house and a
nearby bank were damaged. The Dolphin (still there today)
proudly showed off its clock, which stopped at 10.49 never
to go again, for a generation to come. Red Lion Street and
much around it was damaged again in the Blitz of 1940–41,
with the Holborn Empire music hall on High Holborn (12)
a victim on the terrible night of 11–12 May 1941.
Other musical legacies in Midtown’s
history include the Delane Lea music
recording studio, which once stood
on Kingsway opposite Holborn tube
station where you can now find
Boots (13). Many musical legends
recorded there including The Beatles,
The Rolling Stones, The Who and
The Jimi Hendrix Experience.
Besides all this, the area has become
the stuff of legend. Queen Elizabeth
is said to have danced around the
cherry tree outside the forerunner of
today’s Old Mitre pub in Ely Place (14);
the famous highwayman Dick Turpin
reputedly used the White
Hart Pub on Drury Lane;
and the exhumed corpse
of Oliver Cromwell,
who had been dead
for two years, along
with the bodies of
two other regicides,
John Bradshaw and
Sir Henry Ireton, were
reported to have been kept
in the yard of the Red Lion Pub on
Red Lion Street before being dragged to
Tyburn Gallows where they were hanged
and beheaded in January 1661. There is
still a pub nearby with a similar name.
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