Volume XXXVII, Issue 11, December 2014 a g e fr o s s M e your ent id m the Pres Hello,friends! It is that time of year again! Gather cash, and start cooking your goodies. Our auction and potluck dinner begins at 6:30 PM Tuesday! I have seen the list of plants that we will have on the auction table and I am sure you are going to be very very happy! Dick and Dave did it again! The awards for the show tables will be given that evening and you can use it to pay for your plants. Bring along some cash, checks and friends! I’m really looking forward to this. See you all then! Be good. John Foley President OFFICERS John Foley, President Amy Eli Trautwein, Vice President Colman Rutkin, Treasurer Carol Cammarano, Co-Treasurer Sharon Jaffee, Secretary / AOS Rep Keith Lichtman, Membership Secretary NEWSLETTER Jeff Li, Editor and Photography TRUSTEES Ron Altman, D.D.S. Carol Cammarano Patrick Cammarano Gerry Cassella Roy Fox Renee Lichtman David O’Dell Kathleen Ruoti Karen Silverman Our next meeting is: Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 at 6:30 pm. We won’t have a Guest Speaker this month, because we have our year end Potluck Dinner and Auction! Be sure to bring your friends! The Staten Island Orchid Society meets on the third Tuesday of each month at 7:00 p.m. All Saints Episcopal Church, 2329 Victory Blvd. at Wooley Ave., Staten Island, NY 10314 October Show Tables Paphiopedilum Memoria Nicholas Hamann SIOS Page 2 Epidendrum porpax SIOS Page 3 Lycaste Chita Dream x Lycaste Shoalhaven ‘Miss Shonan’ 4N SIOS Page 4 LC. Blue Angel ‘Glove’ BM / JOGA SIOS Page 5 BLC. George King ‘Southern Cross’ AM/AOS SIOS Page 6 SIOS Page 7 Oncostele Wildcat ‘Bobcat’ SIOS Page 8 Cirr. Elizabeth Ann ‘Buckleberry’ FCC/AOS SIOS Page 9 Collector s ’ Items Dendrobium goldschmidtianum Reprinted from the AOS Website (http://www.aos.org/Default. aspx?id=168) Dendrobium goldschmidtianum is one of our favorite orchids because of ease of growth and the showy display it puts on every Christmas. Even better than that, it follows that December blooming with a slightly lesser one 6-8 weeks after that and can push flushes of flowers throughout the year. Flower color ranges from intense purpleviolet to soft pink. Long known as Dendrobium miyakei Schltr., the species is a member of the Pedilonum section of Dendrobium which to this grower’s mind, does not have any bad orchids. The Pedilonum section has many showy orchids in a rainbow of colors and wide range of temperature tolerences to suit any grower’s conditions. See the Orchids AtoZ section of this website for other species. Pedilonum comes from the Greek word pedilon which means slipper or shoe. This refers to the long mentum, or chinlike projection, formed by the joining of the sepals. There was much SIOS Page 10 confusion in the section, with species being known by several different names, until Dr. Elizabeth Dauncey’s 1994 thesis which corrected much of the synonmy. There are about 47 species in the section with the center of distribution being Papua New Guinea. The beautiful flowers of Dendrobium goldschmidtianum range in color from deep fuchsia to soft pink. Dendrobium goldschmidtianum is a lowland species found in a restricted range of southern Taiwan and Batan island in the northern Philippines. It reportedly has been seen growing as an epiphyte on branches of Ficus retusa. This fig tree is a popular subject for Bonsai. Plants of Dendrobium goldschmidtianum can be tall, up to 3 feet (.9m) or more, but they are space efficient horizontally. In other words, they do not take up much bench space, or more correctly, can be made to not take up much space. The Grand Champion at the 2007 Tokyo Dome show was a meticulously staked Den. goldscmidtianum that was considerably taller than the above measurement. These are orchids that typically bloom off of deciduous second-year canes, although some related species will continue flowering from old canes until they shrivel away to nothing. One of the most frequent questions I am asked is “can I cut the old canes off?”. You don’t need to if they are still firm. Leave them be, they just may bloom again! Although growth occurs all year, the main flush begins in the spring and continues through summer. New canes emerge upright and stay erect until the weight of the leaves begins to give them a lax attitude. Once the leaves drop in the fall the canes will display a nice arching effect. We like to keep plants tied upright until we see bud development. This keeps them confined to a space efficient footprint. When we untie them for flowering the plants become a nicely arched full plant. The following culture suggestions are based on our experience growing plants in South Florida. Our warm and breezy outdoor growing conditions are perfect for optimum growth. These recommendations also apply to northern temperate growers but you will likely see less vigorous results. Den. goldschmidtianum can be grown like vandas or catasetums. Give them plenty of light, water and nutrients when in active growth, which is spring through fall. If you are growing orchids in a cool, low-light northern greenhouse or windowsill you will want to moderate this regimen a bit because growth will be lessened by your conditions. If you can summer plants outdoors then by all means, do so. Small plants, 5-6 live canes under 12” tall, can be Given the right culture, plants grow quickly to specimen size and put on quite a show. SIOS Page 11 grown in plastic pots of your favorite potting mix. Keep plants in a bright spot and keep them evenly moist until autumn. Fertilze once a week while in growth. When temperatures begin to cool in the autumn, for us here in Florida that is around Thanksgiving but will probably be earlier in the northern tier of states, start to hold back water. Do not give plants any water unless canes begin to look excessively shriveled. When you feel them they should be firm. Give plants water only if the canes begin to really shrivel. DO NOT give plants any fertilizer at this time. In mid winter buds should appear. After they are halfway developed you may resume watering but just enough to keep the media barely damp. In other words, plants are not in growth in the winter so their water needs are less. Just give them enough water to mitigate the stress of flower production. Resume normal watering in the spring when tepmeratures begin to warm and days lengthen. If you have the right conditions and end up with a large 20-cane plant after a few years you may want to discard the conventional wisdom regarding underpotting dendrobiums. We grow this and related species in 6-10 inch baskets of sphagnum moss and find that the root system can fill a basket and “eat” the moss in a year or so. A vigorous plant of Dendrobium goldschmidtianum can produce and extensive system of fine roots in a SIOS Page 12 very short time if given the right growing conditions. If you long for this species but feel your conditions may be too cool, too shady or too small, consider other species in the Pedilonum and closely related Calyptrochilum and Calcarifera sections of Dendrobium. There are many excellent cooler growing and miniature orchids such as Dendrobium alaticaulinum, Den. dichaeoides, Den. fulgidum, Den. lawesii, and the beautiful Den. victoria-reginae. Be sure to see the April issue of Orchids magazine for a survey of the Pedilonum section of Dendrobium. References: • Cootes, Jim. 2001. The Orchids of the Philippines. Timber Press. • Lavarack, B, Harris W., Stocker, G. 2000. Dendrobium and its Relatives. Timber Press. Article by Greg Allikas, February 2009. November Showtable Tallies Greenhouse Ronald Altman = 6 Colman Rutkin = 21 Lights Eugene Skorodinsky = 8 Window Roy and Gertrude Fox = 29 The Orchidist s ’ Infirmary Botrytis By Susan Jones Reprinted from the AOS Website (http://www.aos.org/Default. aspx?id=119) A fungal disease affecting many different types of herbaceous and woody plants, botrytis strikes during cool, damp weather in areas where air circulation is poor. On orchids, the disease, caused by Botrytis cinerea, causes unsightly brown spotting of blooms. The fungus most often affects Phalaenopsis and Cattleyas, but may be found in a wide range of orchid genera. Older flowers are highly susceptible to infection. Life Cycle The fungus winters primarily on dead and dying plant material, and begins producing and dispersing spores during cool, damp weather in the spring or autumn. Damp conditions, rapidly rising humidity or disturbing infected plants may release spores into the surrounding growing area. Spores can be distributed by wind, rain or any mechanical action. Temperatures in the mid 60’s to low 70’s F (18–23 C), and wet plant surfaces or ambient humidity of at least 92 percent, are ideal conditions. The fungus can proliferate very quickly, infecting healthy plant tissue in as little as 14 hours. Symptoms Black rot moves quickly through a plant and can decimate an orchid collection if not treated. Botrytis manifests as small, brown necrotic spots on orchid flowers. Those spots may increase in size and number as the infection progresses, and may be surrounded SIOS Page 13 by a pale pink margin. In severe infections, the spots can coalesce, and gray, webbed fungal growth (mycelium) may become visible. Prevention The best form of control for botrytis is prevention, which involves sanitation, air circulation and careful watering. Sanitation Inspect the growing area for conditions favorable to botrytis. As this pathogen thrives and winters over on dead and dying plant material, remove any plant debris, spent or fallen flowers and leaves from the growing area to reduce the possibility of spreading the fungus. Some growers recommend removing and disposing of all affected flowers to help prevent the spread of the fungus, and even burning or burying of affected plant tissue. the humidity during cool, damp weather will help eliminate any excess moisture on plant tissue, thus minimizing the chances of infection. In most areas, orchids grown outdoors already have the necessary air movement in their environment. Watering When watering, avoid wetting the plant and its flowers, if possible. Water that remains on petals or leaves after a rain or watering encourages fungal growth. Watering early in the day helps ensure that the plant and its flowers will be dry by nightfall. Never allow blooms or foliage to remain wet overnight. Companion plants may host a variety of pests and diseases that also affect orchids, including botrytis. Inspect any companion plants in the growing area for signs of the fungus. Some plants susceptible to botrytis Circulation Keep plenty of fresh air moving through the growing area and around plants at all times. A stagnant, damp environment with inadequate air circulation promotes the growth of botrytis. Good air circulation is a necessity to prevent fungal infections year round, but most especially when plants are in bloom. Increasing the ambient temperature and air movement and decreasing SIOS Page 14 Black rot is easily spread by splashing water. include African violets, amaryllis, Amazon lily, azaleas, begonias, cacti, caladium, calla lily, camellias, castor beans, chrysanthemums, cinerarias, coleus, cornflowers, dahlias, dracaenas, dusty millers, ferns, fig, fuchsias, gardenias, gloxinias, heliotrope, passion flower and poinsettias. Finally, isolate any new plants for a minimum of two weeks before admitting them to your growing area and into your orchid collection. During the isolation period, keep a close eye on the new acquisition for signs of any pest or disease that could be spread to other plants. Control Once the botrytis spotting occurs, there is no removing it — only preventing future occurrences. A fungicide such as thiphanate methyl, iprodione, vinclozolin or Physan can be applied as needed to prevent further outbreaks. Since the infection primarily affects flower petals, many growers do not recommend the use of fungicides. As with any chemical, always use it in strict compliance with the manufacturer’s instructions. References • Fortner, Linda. September, 1998. Caring For Orchids Part Two: Air Movement and Quality. Suite 101.com: The Orchid Garden Web site. (http://www. • • • • suite101.com/article.cfm/orchid_ gardening/9829) Orchid Growing — Pests and Diseases: Petal Blight. Web site. (http://www.geocities. com/orchidgrowing/Pests_and_ Diseases.html) Schuster, James, Extension Educator, Horticulture, and reviewed by Bruce Palsrud, Extension Specialist, Pesticide Applicator Training, Department of Crop Sciences, University of Illinois at Urbana- Champaign. Grey Mold (Botrytis). Web site (http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/ focus/ graymold.html) Simone, Gary W., PhD, and Harry C. Burnett, PhD. Diseases Caused by Bacteria and Fungi: Flower Blights In Orchid Pests and Diseases. Florida: American Orchid Society, 1995, pp. 69–70. 2003. Orchids (Orchidaceae) Plant Pest Problems — Diseases Caused by Fungi: Petal blight, Botrytis cinerea. Plant Pest Handbook, Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station Web site. (http:// www.caes.state.ct.us/ PlantPestHandbookFiles/ pphO/ pphorch.html) Susan Jones was the editor of Awards Quarterly and assistant editor of Orchids. Reprinted from the November 2002 issue of Orchids, The Bulletin of the American Orchid Society. Copyright American Orchid Society, www.aos.org. SIOS Page 15
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