capsuleshow.com SUMMER 2014 #capsuleshow @capsuleshow N10 PRE-NORMCORE Let’s Go to the Mall! SHOPPING LIST Why THE place to chill as a teen is suddenly cool again. By Diana Tsui THE MALL POST-NORMCORE THE MALL !!! DANIELLE GRECO What’s awesome about the Internet and clothing right now? It's really an amazing time for emerging designers. I feel like V Files Made Fashion, which is our crowd-sourced fashion show, is the best place to get discovered today. The people who enter are so amazingly talented and original. What do you predict will be hot for SS15 womenswear? I hope it’s along the same lines of SS15 Men’s. I am obsessed with the takeover of silk short sleeve button downs. I want women's to hit that whole 90s/ska/San Diego/silk buttons/matching silk boxer short/ white sneaks moment. LOL. Northeast Philly native Danielle Greco has got it going on. And by “it” we mean a gig as the retail manager for the white hot V FILES store and her very own cult TV show “Danielle Live,” where she shows off/celebrates/big ups/ gets weird with the store’s merch before a semi-live audience. We recently caught up with the style maven to talk clothes, gold and 90's ska fashions. Want more? Keep up with Danielle @thugsbunnny. What would you never leave your house without? I am an accessories fanatic. Right now I have 6 gold rings, 2 gold chains, a Moschino Spongebob wallet, a set of nails and of course our FW14 VFiles Sport Plus Coaches’ Jacket. How would describe your personal style/ look? My personal style was recently described as "Runaway Teen," which I loved. I'm really into wearing vintage metal T-shirts as dresses and very oversized "cozyboi" pieces. I like to pair that with a ton of gold jewelry so I guess I'm like a rocker chola. Earlier this year New York Magazine published a piece about the rise of normcore, which is best described as the “non style” of folks from the pre-blog/professional tastemaker era. You know, mall shoppers. Think white sneakers, Birkenstocks with socks, Patagonia fleeces, and logo sweatshirts from the nineties. It was visually arresting, if only because most people found it ugly. But it also touched on the cyclical nature of trends – everything you loved from 20 years ago is back. Getting your eyes to adjust to pieces you used to find totally uncool is a weird learning curve. You think back to the tragic outfits straight out of your ironic #tbt Instagrams. In my case it was black leggings with an oversized sweatshirt (complete with puffy paint) and matching hair tie. But one look at @scrunchiesofinstagram with its ever growing following, and suddenly you find yourself wanting to add a giant red bow to your top knot. Raiding the nostalgia vault doesn’t seem to be ending any time soon. Just one look at how many people share Buzzfeed’s lists can attest to that fact. What’s next? I’m hoping and praying it’ll be the JNCO jean. This time around hopefully with a slimmer leg that doesn’t fit an entire frozen turkey. Should you doubt this is all happening, a glance at the local coffee shop the other morning was like a parade of 90s-era fashion. In the span of twenty minutes, three separate women walked in. The first had long dark hair pulled up in a topknot complete with navy scrunchy. The second wore denim shortalls with a dainty septum piercing and white socks paired with athletic foam flatform sandals. To round it out, the last was in a vintage bucket hat, cropped sweater and high-waisted bootcut trousers. And what could I say? They all looked good enough to make me consider ordering a tube of Revlon’s Toast of New York for a second go. Diana Tsui is a freelance writer and market editor who has worked for New York Magazine, InStyle and more. Follow her @chupsterette. Kristen Lee Cole Creative Director & Head Buyer, tenoversix, Los Angeles We always buy in a very swift and organic manner. It always comes together fast and furious as we are seeing everything. Our buys are comprised of what we are ourselves most looking forward to wearing. I'm always pleasantly surprised by how much of the new season I NEED. I love the little creative pockets in a lot of cities- large and small. That's where I actually find inspiration and some more esoteric and eclectic takes on current fashion. GO THERE! Our designers recommend their favorite places in NY and Paris! Noriko Kasai Herbert Hofmann Jen Rispoli PARIS Founder, KAVUT, Toronto At KAVUT, we don't look for trends too much and we encourage clients to embrace their individual style. That being said, I do see our customers enjoying more unconventional classic fine jewelry, elegant but fierce, fine but bold, classy yet edgy. I definitely see more customers getting into fierce yet timeless elegant contemporary fine jewelry. People are getting tired of jewelry you toss after a season. The beauty of jewelry is that you live with it, gain memories with it and it becomes a part of you. Line Dry Empire Diner is a classic New York landmark (featured in the opening scene of Woody Allen’s Manhattan), and also my husband’s refuge on many a late night. Recently it has re-opened as a sophisticated diner. I love that they still serve classic diner food, but with a high-end touch. Everything I’ve eaten there has been amazingly delicious. Jessica Kelley NEW YORK Katie King Brooklyn Tailors We are based in Williamsburg, so we really enjoy our neighborhood joints: oysters and drinks at Marlow and Sons, burgers at Diner and everything at Saltie! Vy Nguyen Lolli Swim I love going to EATALY in NYC. It’s such a fun foodie playground. Chelsea Market is amazing to get lost in. I love Brooklyn Bowl, too! Great music, bowling and they have those tasty Blue Ribbon Chicken Wings! Boo Choi CNKOH Main St. Park in Dumbo. You can see the gorgeous scenery of Lower Manhattan, especially with sunset. Cast & Combed I love spending the morning chasing the horizon down endless city blocks, doing some midday hunting at The Brooklyn Flea, caffeinating at Stumptown and then getting a glorious dinner at Dimes. Britt Howard Portland Garment Factory House Line In NY, I love wandering the Lehmann Maupin Gallery. I have always found an interesting, unique show when I visit. I always go for wine with my brother at The Ten Bells. Lovely Day in Nolita is a sweet spot too and I love the wall paper there! In Williamsburg I like St. Mazie, go in the basement and the bathrooms because they are quite special! Buyer/Creative Director, Voo Berlin Designers are doing a great job right now. We see a lot of emerging young brands who’ve got their own style and also get the balance between showpieces and accessible styles. This season I’m looking for more sandals, more lux-sports, more comfortable styles and monochrome outfits! CMMN Sweden, Libertine Libertine and Acne Studios are very exciting! I’m a huge fan of Berlin style right now. Berliners combine high fashion with classics and sportswear in a way that I haven’t seen elsewhere. Alissia Melka-Teichroew byAMT x Mimot Studio One of my favourite places there to have Moroccan tea is Café de la Mosquée de Paris, which is right next to Le Jardin des Plantes and always beautiful as well. StEphanie D'heygere Been by D'heygere Anahi is a small, charming Argentinean restaurant with the best meat in town. Jen Rispoli Line Dry In Paris, I love Chez Janou. The homemade chocolate mousse served straight from the mixing bowl is divine. Diana SaldaNa Royal Caballito For some greenery, my favorite is the Luxembourg Gardens. It hasn’t changed a bit since Brassai photographed it! Dehillerin, a 200-year-old professional kitchenware shop by Les Halles, has kept its decoration as it was. It’s a monument in itself, with its floor to ceiling cooking utensils it has the most amazing copper bowls to admire! Alexandra Risch Jr. Trendsetter/Fashion forecaster, Galeries Lafayette I am actually looking for some street & sporty looks: on the first hand, an emergent trend totally in black, with a little touch of white, that takes its inspirations from sportswear (large t-shirts, jersey shorts, jogging pants) but in a modern way. It’s a strong trend that I like to call “Dark street,” and that I’ve currently seen during different shows. On the second hand, the way that designers use technical and sporty fabrics to create new silhouettes. I also like the emergence of all the “acid pastel” colors in womenswear: wearing bright colors definitely launches the new summer season! Malorie Urbanovitch Malorie Urbanovitch The Palais de Tokyo is my favorite gallery in Paris. They have a beautiful terrace in the back with great coffee. I bought a pair of vintage YSL sunglasses in the gift shop a few years ago that I'll never forgive myself for losing! NEW BRANDS AT CAPSULE SPRING/SUMMER 2015 1 2 3 4 11 12 13 5 6 9 10 15 16 18 7 8 1. byAMT x Mimot Studio See them in: New York byAMT features American-made totes and bags that highlight excellent design and affordability. Don’t miss their top-notch beach totes and cool planters. 2. Outdoor Voices See them in: Las Vegas, New York Outdoor Voices brings an artful aesthetic-driven perspective to active wear and approaches the outdoor lifestyle with moderation, ease and humor. 3. Mudlark & Co See them in: Paris Born and manufactured in England, Mudlark make beautifully crafted leather sandals built to last and delight. 4. Been by D'heygere See them in: Paris The Belgian collection designed by Margiela designer Stéphanie D'Heygere offers witty, hyper-realistic prints on leggings, tees and swimwear. 14 17 5. DORIS Q See them in: New York Cutting edge, structural silhouettes adorned with eye popping digital prints feature heavily in Doris Q’s latest SS15 collection. 6. N/A/M See them in: New York In addition to being designer Kiyeon Nam’s last name, the acronym stands for the three most important elements in the collection: Nature, Art, and Music. Don’t miss their ottoman mesh dress. 7. Brooklyn Tailors 9. Percy Lau Studio 13. Cast & Combed 10. SKINWARE 14. Foley and Keane See them in: Paris Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design alum Percy Lau has built up her own philosophy: instead of designing jewelry, she calls her works re-creations based on nature. See them in: New York Designed in Japan and made with Swiss organic cottons, Skinware is super cute lingerie and easy loungewear made from 100% organic cottons and botanical dyes. See them in: New York Cast & Combed is a resin jewelry line excited by light and shape, weight and weightlessness, color and form. Created & designed by Jessica Kelley in Los Angeles, California. See them in: New York Foley & Keane is a progressive Australian based label with a classic yet modern sensibility. It is distinguished by a global & eclectic aesthetic directly derived from the person style of American Designer Devon Keane. See them in: New York Traditional hand-tailoring with an accessible, modern American aesthetic. Don’t miss the over dyed linen popover shirt-dress that has been screen printed and then washed for a subtle sun-faded print effect. 11. Lolli Swim See them in: New York Made in Southern California, this sun soaked brand offers fun, flirty, feminine swimwear styles. Check out their high-waisted color block swimmie set, new for SS15. 15. PINC by Ana Tichy 8. Cleobella 12. Line Dry 16. W by WenJun See them in: New York Inspired by the beautiful tiles, hand tooled metal lamps and Berber rugs found while wandering through the street markets of Marrakesh, Cleobella’s latest collection is a must see. See them in: New York Sophistication meets versatility with Line Dry’s latest. Check out the Marcella, a boyfriend tunic shirt with geometric piecing that can be worn as a dress, shirt, or beach cover-up. See them in: Paris Pinc By Ana Tichy’s main inspiration comes from the feeling of lying under a fig tree on a hot summer afternoon next to the Mediterranean Sea. See them in: Paris In this collection, candy grows on trees in a series of amazing prints on high quality Japanese fabrics. The key silhouette in the SS15 collection are the geometrical shaped sleeves and bare midriffs. 17. Carnet du Style See them in: New York Inspired by men's tailoring, Carnet du Style offers edgy looks that maintain a polished, feminine sophistication. 18. Pfeiffer See them in: New York Pfeiffer is a three part collective drawn together by a shared love of style and the urge to break away from the predictable. Luxe, slinky trophy pieces are the core of the brand’s vision. 19. Royal Caballito See them in: New York The collections by Royal Caballito are made with the utmost care using only high quality natural fabrics. Each piece is produced in small artisan workshops in Spain with the aspiration to remain sustainable and timeless. 19 KALEN HOLLOMON: THE INTERVIEW FOLLOW @theprimaryessentials One of my all time favorite shops, on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn. A mix of gorgeous home goods and inspiration. @bfgf Super cool designer who does embroidery and textiles. I have one of their blankets on my couch always. “Even taking the time and making something just for Instagram, it seemed so self-indulgent and kind of bullshit.” @clamlab My favorite ceramicist in New York. @jessicadimmock Super badass globe trotting photojournalist. Brooklyn-based ceramicist Helen Levi (@helen_levi) is an Instagram darling. With over 40K followers, she’s used the medium to build her business, make new friends, and connect with her clients worldwide in a unfiltered (haha), personal way. She also knows a ton of awesome ‘grammers worth your follow right now. Here are her recommendations. Connect and be delighted. @barrett_h I never get sick of my friend Barrett on my feed. Gorgeous color everytime. @oldfashioned Ceramicist extraordinaire who also has the best captions. @individualmedleystore My West Coast home/store. Their feed is so dreamy and their male model of choice is identical to Ryan Gosling. @yossyarefi The ONLY food based feed I follow and use recipes from. @fvonf Best inspirational blog, euro style. @drewinnis Super talented photographer and filmmaker who gets the moody image but never overdoes it. BY MINYA QUIRK Kalen Hollomon’s Instagram work is so compelling that suddenly the often repetitive and snoozy social media image feed feels brand new. The New York city-based artist posts daily doses of his singular vision, in the form of collaged works and cut out images morphed with his iPhone surroundings. The results are oft imitated but never duplicated. Hollomon completed an Instagram project for Vogue for the A/W 15 show season that exhibited his forced perspective prowess, utilizing runway images and archival imagery from the fashion bible remixed into his every day surroundings. That exposure and a flurry of other fashioncentric projects have earned him more than 50k Instagram followers, which include admirers like fellow artists, art directors, models and fashion folk who can’t get enough of Hollomon’s visual commentary on object, desire, commodity, sex and so much more. If you’re not following him, do so immediately: @kalen_hollomon. Hollomon created some beautiful pieces for Capsule’s SS15 season and will produce interactive installations at Capsule’s New York Men’s and Las Vegas editions. Here, he answers a few questions about romance and process: What kind of art were you making pre-NY? When I was in LA, I was doing larger stuff, larger oil paintings and sculptures. When I moved here I started to do more photography and collage. Ok, so let’s talk about a couple of the terms that define your art. Shadows. Secrets. Um, what else… romance, spontaneity. Romance. Period. What kinds of images resonate with you, when you’re approaching collage? I’m really visual. I’m looking for a connection. Something that speaks to me. Like when you make eye contact with someone and you get this connection. That goes back to the romance of it. I like older stuff and mixing it with new stuff. Contradictions. Something bizarre with something more normal. Something sexual against a really sanitized image. How did you start this iPhone photography collage work? I took a cut out of the bottom half of a man, lying down naked. And I put it on a friend at the park, a girl. And then I was also drawing things on business cards and taking pictures. It was just that I didn’t have content or materials really, to make whatever I wanted at home. So I should just use whatever’s out in the world to make a collage, an image. That was three years ago. Pre-Instagram. So now you just walk around with little people cut out in your bag? I carry cut outs with me, I always have a couple, or a razorblade. I go outside and I look for the right opportunity. It usually comes into my life, the right person…I try to find a way to make the image interact with the person or the background, rather than just place it. Which of the guerilla style KH Instagram posts is your favorite? There’s one where I put a Celine shirt on a guy on the train. I like the woman holding the baby. There’s one of my friend Jade looking over her shoulder all sexy with a hairyman’s butt. That one was staged and I thought it was good. The ones with handbags. But people love the butts. THE NEW WE ARE THE MARKET FOLLOW US Kalen's Favorite Instagram FEEDS: Daniel Arnold instagram.com/arnold_daniel @arnold_daniel James Ferrell instagram.com/she_skin @she_skin Yuki James instagram.com/yukijames @yukijames Mae Elvis Kaufman instagram.com/maeelvis @maeelvis Doug Rickard instagram.com/dougrickard @dougrickard We started We Are the Market as an industry blog way back before #menswear was a thing, before the explosion of fashion as we know it existed online. Yes, it was 2006. Practically a lifetime ago in Internet Years. Now, we’ve redesigned the site, and we’d love to invite you to present your news, stories and products to the world via our new content network. latest lookbook shoot; We Are The Market rounds it all up and presents it to the world under one banner. We Are the Market 2.0 is all about news – ours and yours. We’ve created a platform where every designer in our community as well as our favorite retailers and industry insiders can post their own content on the We Are The Market portal. From just-hitthe-shelf products in-store to collaborations, to personal projects or a behind the scenes report from the To become a contributor and start sharing your news with our friends, email us at: [email protected] www.wearethemarket.com #capsuleshow @capsuleshow facebook.com/capsuleshow Visit We Are the Market regularly to keep up with all the happenings in the Capsule community. And check out our updated Global Shopping Guide and Showroom Listings. Public Relations, Creative Services, Content Creation, Digital Marketing, Brand Consulting, Representation. bpmw-agency.com BPMW 80 8th Ave #202 New York, NY 10011 Basketball City 299 South St (at Montgomery St), 10002 Paris Women’s Sept 26-28 Tapis Rouge 67 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010 Register to attend at capsuleshow.com Artwork by Kalen Hollomon S S 1 5 New York Women’s Sept 12-14
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