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• Soul-Warming Chicken Soup
• Creamy Vegetable Soups
• How to Make Hearty Bean &
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COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
Soul-Warming
Chicken Soup
This comforting classic is easy to customize—just mix and match
ingredients to make the soup you crave. B Y T O N Y R O S E N F E L D
i’m lucky to have wonderful childhood memories
of the chicken soup made by both of my Jewish
grandmothers. Once I got old enough to cook for a
living and travel a bit, I realized that lots of other
people think of chicken soup just as fondly, since it
holds a beloved place in almost every cuisine. Its
flavors and ingredients might vary, but its standing
as the most comforting of meals is universal.
The great thing about chicken soup is that once
you learn the basic method, you can flavor it however
you like. It starts with an easy, homemade broth—
just throw a chicken and some vegetables into a pot
and let them simmer. Once the chicken is cooked,
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FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012
remove it, shred the meat, and return it to the soup
later. Then, it’s simply a matter of adding your own
favorite ingredients, from spices, fresh herbs, and
vegetables to noodles, grains, and beans.
You can go traditional with classic chicken
noodle, or branch out to Tex-Mex chile-lime chicken
soup, or Asian chicken noodle soup with bok choy
and shiitake (see page 76). Or invent your own
version. No matter what flavors you choose, your
soup will make a delicious one-pot meal for a chilly
winter night. And just think—it might even create
delicious memories for the soup-eaters in your
family, too.
Start by making a simple
chicken broth, which gets
intense flavor from a long,
slow simmer.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M
71
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
chicken soup
Homemade broth serves as the base for any style of chicken soup. Once that’s made, follow the
method and customize your soup by choosing ingredients from the different categories on the
following pages. The soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Serves 6 to 8
STEP 1
make a chicken broth
This broth is made from a whole chicken. Before you start cooking, be sure to remove
the chicken’s skin—you’ll get a less fatty broth that won’t need as much skimming. If
you’re pressed for time, you could skip making your own broth, but you won’t get the
same depth of flavor. To do this, go directly to Step 2 on the opposite page and use
store-bought broth and the meat from a rotisserie chicken.
1 3-lb. chicken
2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into
1-inch pieces
2 medium celery stalks, cut into 2-inch
pieces
1 medium yellow onion (about 6 oz.),
cut into 1/2-inch wedges
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
Using a small sharp knife and your
fingers, remove the skin from the
chicken and discard it.
Rinse the chicken well and put it in
a large (at least 8-quart), heavy-duty
pot or Dutch oven. Add enough cold
water to submerge the chicken (about
5 quarts). Cover the pot, with the lid
slightly ajar. Bring to a boil over high heat
and then reduce the heat to maintain a
very gentle simmer. Cook, occasionally
skimming off any foam that accumulates on the surface, until foam no longer
rises, about 30 minutes.
Add the carrots, celery, onion, 11/2 Tbs.
salt, and 2 tsp. pepper and simmer until
the vegetables start to soften and the
chicken is completely cooked through,
about 20 minutes. Using tongs and a
slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to
a large rimmed baking sheet. Let cool
for 10 minutes; meanwhile, continue
simmering the broth, partially covered.
Using your fingers, pull the meat from
the bones and shred it into bite-size
pieces; discard any gristle or fat. Set
aside the shredded chicken while you
finish the broth.
Return the carcass to the broth and
simmer, partially covered, until the
vegetables are completely soft and the
flavor has intensified, about 30 minutes
more. If at any time the water level drops
below the solids, add water to cover and
return to a simmer.
Remove the carcass from the broth
and discard. Strain the broth through a
fine sieve set over another pot or a bowl
large enough to hold the broth. Gently
press on the solids with a large spoon to
squeeze out any remaining broth. You
will have about 3 quarts. (The broth can
be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen
for up to 3 months.)
Create your own chicken soup
using our interactive Recipe Maker
at FineCooking.com/extras.
For the clearest broth,
remove the carcass
from the pot before
straining, and pour
slowly so any sediment
remains in the bottom
of the pot.
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FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012
Photographs by Scott Phillips
No matter which aromatics
you choose, be sure to brown
them lightly to deepen their
flavor. Any spices or hardy
herbs also benefit from brief
cooking.
STEP 2
cook the
aromatics
Basic aromatics serve as the flavor foundation for your soup. If you like, you can
also add extra aromatics, selecting ones
that complement the flavors of the soup
you’re making.
1½ Tbs. olive oil or canola oil
Basic Aromatics
Choose up to three, for up to 4 cups total
Onion, shallot, or leek,
cut into ¼-inch dice
or finely chopped
Fresh chiles
( jalapeño, Anaheim,
poblano, Thai bird;
1 or 2), cut into
thin disks
Lemongrass
(1 or 2 stalks), trimmed,
cut into 4-inch pieces,
and smashed with the
side of a chef’s knife
Celery,
cut into ½-inch dice
Fennel,
cut into ¼-inch dice
Ginger
(2-inch knob),
peeled and
thinly sliced
Garlic
(1 or 2 medium cloves),
minced
Spices and Hardy Herbs (optional)
Choose one or two
STEP 3
Food styling by Mariana Velasquez
Choose up to three
Carrot,
cut into ¼-inch dice
Kosher salt
Wash and thoroughly dry the broth pot.
Heat the oil in the pot over medium-high
heat until shimmering hot. Add your
choice of basic aromatics, extra aromatics, if using, and ½ Tbs. salt. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until the vegetables
are softened and lightly browned in
places, 4 to 6 minutes. Add your choice
of spices or hardy herbs, if using, and
cook, stirring, until they become fragrant, about 30 seconds.
Extra Aromatics (optional)
simmer
Add 3 quarts of the broth and bring to a
boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are completely
tender and the aromatics have infused
the broth, 20 to 30 minutes. Fish out and
discard any large aromatics or spices.
Bay leaves
(1 or 2)
Chili powder
(up to 2 tsp.)
Ground coriander
(up to 1 tsp.)
Cinnamon stick
(1, about 3 inches)
Ground cumin
(up to 2 tsp.)
Dried chipotle chile
(1)
Fresh thyme
(up to 2 tsp. chopped)
Fresh rosemary
(up to 2 tsp. chopped)
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COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 4
add starches and vegetables
Stir in the reserved shredded chicken and your choice of starches and vegetables.
Simmer, stirring occasionally, until all are tender and the flavors meld, 5 to 10 minutes.
Starches
Choose one or two
Potatoes
(red or yellow), peeled,
cut into 1/2-inch dice, and
cooked until barely
tender (up to 4 cups)
Noodles
(egg, udon, soba,
ramen), cooked until
barely tender and rinsed
(up to 5 cups)
Tiny pastas
Canned beans
(ditalini, acini de pepe, orzo), (cannellini, black, kidney,
cooked until barely tender
pinto, garbanzo),
(up to 4 cups)
rinsed well (up to 3 cups)
Rice
(long-grain white or
brown), cooked until
barely tender
(up to 3 cups)
Grains
(barley, farro, bulgur,
hominy), cooked until
barely tender
(up to 3 cups)
Vegetables
Choose one or two
Starches (except for canned
beans) need to be pre-cooked,
or they’ll absorb too much
broth. Cook them until barely
tender, since they’ll continue
to simmer in the soup.
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FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012
Spinach
(up to 10 oz.), stemmed
if large, and cut into
2-inch pieces
Napa cabbage,
cored, cut into 1½-inch
pieces (up to 6 cups)
Escarole,
cored, cut into 1-inch
pieces (up to 9 cups)
Swiss chard
(up to ¾ lb.), stemmed
and cut into ½-inch
pieces
Baby bok choy
(up to ½ lb.), thinly sliced
Mushrooms
(shiitake, oyster;
up to 8 oz.), stemmed if
necessary and thinly sliced
Corn kernels,
fresh or thawed frozen
(up to 1½ cups)
Peas,
fresh or thawed frozen
(up to 1½ cups)
Canned diced tomatoes,
drained (up to 1½ cups)
Fo r s o u r c e s , s e e W h e r e t o B u y I t
STEP 5
finish the soup
Stir in your choice of finishes, adding a little at a time and adjusting the flavor as you go.
Season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle into bowls and garnish, if you like, before serving.
Finishes
Garnishes (optional)
Choose up to four
Choose up to two
Lemon or lime juice
(1 Tbs. at a time,
up to 4 Tbs.)
Soy sauce
(1 Tbs. at a time,
up to 3 Tbs.)
Sesame oil
(½ tsp. at a time,
up to 1 Tbs.)
Crisp tortilla strips
(small handful
per serving)
Crisp bacon,
crumbled (about 1 Tbs.
per serving)
Vinegar
(red or white wine,
sherry, cider, rice; 1 tsp. at
a time, up to 2 Tbs.)
Heavy cream
(2 Tbs. at a time,
up to 1/2 cup)
Fish sauce
(1 tsp. at a time,
up to 2 Tbs.)
Scallions,
thinly sliced (about
1 Tbs. per serving)
Parmigiano-Reggiano,
freshly grated
(about 1 Tbs. per serving)
Delicate fresh herbs
(basil, cilantro, tarragon,
parsley, dill, chives, mint),
thinly sliced or chopped
(up to 1/4 cup total)
Hot sauce
(like Tabasco or
Sriracha; ½ tsp.
at a time, up to 2 tsp.)
Sugar/brown sugar
(1 tsp. at a time,
up to 2 Tbs.)
Classic Chicken Noodle Soup
Aromatics: carrot,
onion, leek
Herb: thyme
Starch: egg noodles
Vegetable: peas
Finishes: lemon
juice, parsley
It’s a good idea to
include either vinegar
or lemon or lime juice in
your choice of finishes—
their acid adds brightness and enhances the
flavor of any soup.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M
75
Chicken soup can take almost any
direction—these are a few of my favorites.
Tex-Mex Chile-Lime
Chicken Soup
Aromatics: onion,
garlic, jalapeño
Spices: chili powder,
cumin
Starch: hominy
Vegetables: corn,
tomatoes
Finishes: cilantro,
lime juice
Garnish: tortilla strips
Chicken and Rice
Soup with Spinach,
Lemon, and Dill
Aromatics: onion,
carrot, celery
Herb: bay leaf
Starch: white rice
Vegetable: spinach
Finishes: dill, lemon
juice
Garnish: scallions
Chicken Soup
with White Beans,
Farro, and Escarole
Aromatics: fennel, leek
Herb: rosemary
Starches: cannellini
beans, farro
Vegetable: escarole
Finish: red wine vinegar
Garnish: Parmigiano
Chicken Soup
with Barley,
Mushrooms,
and Greens
Aromatics: onion,
celery
Herb: thyme
Starch: barley
Vegetables: Swiss
chard, shiitake and
oyster mushrooms
Finish: sherry vinegar
Garnish: Parmigiano
Chicken Noodle
Soup with Baby Bok
Choy and Shiitake
Aromatics: carrot,
ginger, Thai bird chiles
Starch: ramen noodles
Vegetables: baby bok
choy, shiitake mushrooms
Finishes: soy sauce,
sesame oil, white
vinegar, brown sugar
Garnish: scallions
Chicken Corn
Chowder
Aromatics: onion,
chiles
Herb: thyme
Starch: potatoes
Vegetable: corn
Finish: heavy cream
Garnishes: scallions,
bacon
Tony Rosenfeld is a Fine Cooking contributing editor. He is the author of
150 Things to Make with Roast Chicken (And 50 Ways to Roast It) and
Sear, Sauce, and Serve: Mastering High-Heat, High-Flavor Cooking.
76
FINE COOKING • DEC 2011/JAN 2012
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
One simple method,
endless variations.
BY SUSIE MIDDLE TON
MAKING SOUP is the
best kind of kitchen alchemy:
You start with a few humble
ingredients and wind up with a gem.
That’s why I love making these puréed
vegetable soups; the components and
technique are simple, but the result is a
silky, delicious soup that’s refined enough
for any elegant first course. • The technique is straightforward. First, cook some
aromatics (like carrots, onion, celery, garlic,
and leeks) to start building the soup’s flavor
base. Next, add your favorite vegetable plus
some liquid and simmer until tender. Finally, just
purée everything in a blender. You won’t believe
how easy it is to make something so lovely.
Creamy Vegetable Soups
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FINE COOKING • FEB/MAR 2009
Photographs by Scott Phillips
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M
63
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 1
choose your ingredients
Read the method from start to finish and then choose and prep your ingredients.
All soups serve 8 as a starter.
STEP 2
cook the aromatics
In a 4- to 5-quart saucepan or Dutch oven, heat the cooking fat over
medium-low heat. When hot, add the 11/4 cups aromatics and a pinch
of kosher salt. Stir well, cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the aromatics are softened, 8 to 10 minutes.
Stir in 1 tsp. kosher salt, as well as an optional spice, if using.
Aromatics
Choose any combi­
nation of 2 to 5 from
the list below for a
total of 11/4 cups.
•Onions, cut into
medium dice
•Leeks, thinly sliced
and washed
Cooking Fat
•Shallots, finely
Use 1 or a combination
for a total of 2 Tbs.
•Carrots, peeled,
•Unsalted butter
•Extra-virgin olive oil
•Vegetable oil
chopped
halved or quartered
lengthwise, and
thinly sliced
Celery, halved
lengthwise and
thinly sliced (no
more than 1/4 cup)
Fresh ginger, minced
(no more than 1 Tbs.)
Garlic, minced (no
more than 2 tsp.)
•
•
•
Spices (optional)
These soups are delicious
without any embellishment,
but you can add a spice to
give your soup a global twist.
Choose 1 of the following.
•Curry powder, 11/2 tsp.
•Crushed fennel seed,
Good
to Know
•Mustard seed, 2 tsp.
•Saffron threads,
1 tsp.
•Garam masala, 1 tsp.
•Ground cumin plus ground
coriander, 2 tsp. total
big pinch, lightly crushed
and mixed with some of
the liquid
Smoked paprika, 1/2 to 1 tsp.
•
Build and save your own creamy soup recipes
with our interactive feature at FineCooking.com.
64
FINE COOKING • FEB/MAR 2009
Aromatic vegeta­
bles become the
flavor foundation
of your soup. The
best blend of aro­
matics starts with
garlic and includes
some onions,
leeks, or shallots.
From there, move
on to your other
choices, select­
ing those that are
most complemen­
tary to your main
vegetable.
TOMATO-FENNEL
SOUP WITH ORANGE
Choose these:
•Onions, shallots, carrots,
celery, garlic
•Crushed fennel seeds
•Tomatoes
•Vegetable broth, orange juice
•Heavy cream, rice vinegar,
croutons
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M
65
CARROT-GINGER SOUP
Choose these:
•Leeks, onions, celery, garlic, ginger
•Carrots
•Vegetable broth, orange juice
•Yogurt, lime, chives
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MONTH/MONTH 2009
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
STEP 3
simmer the vegetables
Add your choice of vegetables and liquids, stir well, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook, uncovered, stirring
occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender and the soup is full-flavored, 7 to 20 minutes, depending on the vegetable.
Vegetables
Choose 1 or more of the following for a total weight of 11/2 lb.
prepped vegetables.
•Asparagus, bottom of stems
trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch
pieces
Broccoli, bottom of stems
trimmed, florets coarsely
chopped, stems sliced very
thinly
Butternut squash, peeled,
seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch
dice
Carrots, peeled, cut in half or
quartered lengthwise if thick,
and sliced 1/4 inch thick
•
•
•Cauliflower, trimmed, cored,
and coarsely chopped
•Mushrooms (combination
of cremini or baby bella and
white button), halved and
thinly sliced
Canned whole tomatoes
(two 28-oz. cans) drained and
coarsely chopped or crushed
•
•
Liquids
Broth makes up the body of the soup, while liquids
like wine and juice add extra flavor.
Choose 1 of the
following for a total
of 5 cups liquid.
•Lower-salt chicken
broth, 21/2 cups, plus
21/2 cups water
Vegetable broth,
preferably homemade
(see FineCooking.com
for a recipe), 5 cups
•
Choose 1 of the
following (3 Tbs.).
•White wine
•Dry vermouth
•Dry sherry
•Apple cider
•Orange juice
How Much Do I Buy?
When shopping for your
main vegetable, you’ll
need to buy extra to
account for the weight
you lose when you trim.
To yield 11/2 lb. trimmed
vegetables, start with:
•21/4 lb. asparagus
•13/4 lb. broccoli
•2 lb. butternut squash
•13/4 lb. carrots
•2 lb. cauliflower
•11/2 lb. mushrooms
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M
67
COOKING WITHOUT RECIPES
Storing
Soups
STEP 4
purée
Take the pan off the heat and let the soup cool for
5 minutes. Working in batches, purée the soup in a
blender (see Test Kitchen, page 83, for safety tips).
Wipe the pan clean and put the soup back in the pan.
STEP 5
finish
Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper and
add your choice of dairy, if using, and acid; start
with 1/2 tsp. lemon or lime juice or vinegar, and add
up to 11/2 tsp. as needed. Ladle into 8 soup bowls and
sprinkle a garnish over each serving, if using.
Acid
A bit of citrus juice or a dash
of vinegar will give your soup an
additional touch of brightness
and bring out the vegetable flavor.
Choose 1 of the following (up to
11/2 tsp.).
•Fresh lemon or lime juice
•Vinegar, such as red or white
wine vinegar, cider vinegar,
sherry vinegar, balsamic vinegar,
or rice vinegar
Most of these
soups are best
eaten within a day,
as the vegetables
tend to separate
from the liquids.
Carrot, butternut
squash, and
tomato soups can
last up to 2 days
in the refrigerator
and up to a month
in the freezer; if
frozen, reheat
slowly and whisk
if separated.
Dairy (optional)
If you like, you can finish your
soup with some dairy (though
some vegetables, especially
cauliflower, carrots, and butter­
nut squash, make such silky
purées on their own that I
sometimes leave the dairy out
completely). While cream is
nice, I often prefer the results
I get with whole yogurt or
buttermilk, since their slightly
tangy flavor brightens the
soup. Choose 1 of the
following (1/4 cup).
•Heavy cream
•Buttermilk
•Thick whole yogurt,
Garnishes (optional)
Add a finishing touch for extra
flavor and texture. Choose 1 of
the following.
•Crumbled cooked bacon or
pancetta, 2 tsp. per serving
•Chopped fresh herbs
(basil, chives, cilantro, mint, or
parsley), 1 to 2 tsp. per serving
Homemade croutons,
1 to 2 Tbs. per serving (see
recipe at FineCooking.com)
Nuts (almonds, peanuts, pecans, pine nuts,
or walnuts), toasted and finely chopped, 1 tsp. per serving
Flavored oil (your choice of nut, spiced, sesame, or truffle oil),
1/2 tsp. per serving
•
•
•
preferably Greek
More Soups to Make
Mix and match
ingredients
for a delicious
soup your way.
Here are two
more ideas
we like.
ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH
LEEKS AND MUSTARD SEED
BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP WITH
GARAM MASALA, YOGURT, AND LIME
Choose these:
Choose these:
•leeks, garlic
•mustard seed
•asparagus
•chicken broth, white wine
•cream, lemon juice, croutons
•leeks, shallots, celery, garlic
•garam masala
•butternut squash
•vegetable broth, apple cider
•yogurt, lime juice, cilantro
Susie Middleton is Fine Cooking’s editor at large.
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FINE COOKING • FEB/MAR 2009
BROCCOLI SOUP WITH BACON
Choose these:
•Onions, leeks, garlic
•Broccoli
•Chicken broth, white wine or vermouth
•Cream, lemon juice, bacon
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M
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cooking without recipes
How to
Make
Hearty Bean &
Vegetable Soups
by
M olly S tevens
E
very fall my soup pot gets a workout.
But of all the soups and stews I concoct
to keep my friends and family warm,
everyone’s favorites are the hearty
bean and vegetable soups. Endlessly
variable, this winning combination delivers delicious, nourishing soups that please
almost any appetite. And happily for me,
they’re easy on the cook, too. The straightforward method on pp. 75–77 shows you
how to make a satisfying bean soup using
ingredients you like. Beans’ gentle, earthy
character makes them a perfect backdrop
for a range of flavors, from bold and spicy
to rich and mellow. So by simply varying the
ingredients, you can create a winter’s worth
of comforting soups.
Another reason to add bean and vegetable soups to your repertoire is convenience.
Make a big pot on the weekend (they take
some time, but it’s mostly unattended simmering), then refrigerate the leftovers and
reheat them for easy meals throughout the
week. Like many slow-cooked dishes, these
soups taste even better the next day or the
day after that. And you can easily freeze
them for longer storage.
Learn the best method for making
deeply flavored winter soups with
your choice of ingredients
The best soups start with dried beans
Certainly canned beans speed up the process, but this is one of those instances
where the extra step of starting with dried
beans makes a big difference. First of all,
they yield better flavor and texture: Freshly
cooked beans are plumper, creamier, and
truer to their natural flavor than canned.
Dried beans also retain their shape better
and are less apt to turn mushy. Another advantage of cooking your own beans is that
you end up with a rich-tasting bean broth
that goes right back into the soup.
www.finecooking.com
Minestrone
October/November 2007
73
Soak the beans first. This allows them to
soften gently and plump up, shortening the
cooking time and helping the beans cook
evenly. Although many recipes call for soaking beans overnight, four hours is plenty. I
often soak the beans in the morning of the
day I plan to make soup.
Next, cook the beans alone. Give the beans
a quick rinse, put them in a large pot with a
garlic clove and bay leaf for extra flavor, and
simmer gently in enough water to cover. I’ve
found that it’s best to add salt about threequarters of the way through simmering. This
is not so early as to slow down the cooking
(which salt is known to do), but not too late
to season the beans effectively. Instead of
adding vegetables to the simmering beans,
I prefer to cook the beans separately and
add them to the soup later. If you cook them
together, it’s easy for the vegetables to overcook before the beans are ready.
Choose any vegetables
and seasonings you like
It’s always a good idea to think of flavor affinities before you start assembling ingredients.
If you’re leaning toward Mediterranean, you
might select fennel, rosemary, and garlic,
while a Latin American-inspired soup could
include cumin, coriander, and chiles (see
some of my favorite combinations at right).
I also like to keep things seasonal, relying
on the hearty vegetables available in fall and
winter, such as cabbage, parsnips, carrots,
and cauliflower.
No matter what type of soup I make,
I find that a bit of cured or seasoned pork
(such as bacon, pancetta, or sausage), while
not absolutely necessary, adds depth and an
irresistibly savory edge to the soup. I cook
it in a little olive oil to create a flavor base.
Then I remove it, set it aside to add back
later, and add the aromatics followed by the
vegetables and broth.
Finish with a flourish. After you’ve added
the beans back to the soup pot and let every­
thing simmer together, you have a final
opportunity to personalize and add flavor to
your soup. Stir in some lemon juice, vinegar,
or hot sauce for a splash of acidity or heat.
For a burst of freshness and color, toss in a
handful of chopped herbs. And if you like,
finish each serving with a drizzle of good
olive oil or flavored oil, a handful of croutons, or even a sprinkling of grated cheese.
74
F i n e C oo k i n g
French farmers’ soup
Classic combinations
Try one of these traditional combos or create your own hearty soup
following the steps starting on the next page.
MEXICAN BLACK BEAN SOUP
Beans: black beans
Meat: chorizo or bacon
Aromatics: onion and celery
Seasonings: garlic, jalapeño, cumin,
and coriander
Vegetables: carrots and tomatoes
Finishing touches: lime juice and
fresh cilantro
MIDDLE-EASTERN CHICKPEA SOUP
Beans: chickpeas
Meat: omit
Aromatics: onions and celery
Seasonings: garlic, cumin, coriander,
and red pepper flakes
Vegetables: potatoes, cauliflower,
and carrots
Finishing touches: lemon juice,
parsley, and a drizzle of chile oil
FRENCH FARMERS’ SOUP
Beans: flageolets or baby lima beans
Meat: bacon
Aromatics: shallots and leeks
Seasonings: thyme
Vegetables: carrots, celery root, and turnips
Finishing touches: white-wine or
Champagne vinegar, parsley, and
croutons
CABBAGE AND WHITE BEAN SOUP
Beans: cannellini, great northern,
or navy beans
Meat: fresh Italian sausage
Aromatics: onion and celery
Seasonings: rosemary and garlic
Vegetables: cabbage and potatoes
Finishing touches: parsley
MINESTRONE
Beans: cranberry beans
Meat: pancetta
Aromatics: onion and celery
Seasonings: garlic, rosemary, thyme, red
pepper flakes, and tomato paste
Vegetables: chard or escarole, fennel,
and tomatoes
Finishing touches: basil, grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a drizzle
of olive oil
Photos: Scott Phillips
Six steps to a hearty bean & vegetable soup
Yields 9 to 10 cups; serves six.
What you’ll need
Read carefully through all the steps and
then choose and assemble the ingredients
for each step before you start cooking.
8 oz. (11⁄4 cups) your choice of dried
beans
1 medium clove garlic
1 bay leaf
3 ⁄4 tsp. kosher salt; more as needed
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted
butter
1⁄4 lb. bacon, pancetta, or sausage
(optional)
11⁄ 2 cups your choice of aromatics
4 tsp. your choice of spices and herbs
or other seasonings
1 Tbs. tomato paste (optional)
3 cups your choice of vegetables
5 to 6 cups homemade or store-bought
low-salt chicken broth or homemade
vegetable broth
Freshly ground black pepper
Your choice of finishing ingredients
(see step 6)
1 Soak the beans
Sort through your beans, discarding any
little stones or clumps of dirt, and then give
them a quick rinse. Transfer to a large bowl,
add enough cold water to cover the beans
by 3 inches, and soak for 4 to 12 hours.
Dried bean
choices
2 Cook the beans
Drain and rinse the beans and transfer them to
a 3- or 4-qt. saucepan. Add 1 medium
garlic clove (smashed and peeled), 1 bay leaf,
and 6 cups of cold water. Partially cover to
limit evaporation and simmer gently, stirring
every 20 to 30 minutes, until the beans are
tender and almost creamy inside, without
being mealy or mushy (see below for approximate cooking times). The beans’ cooking time
will vary depending on how long they’ve
Choose one (11⁄4 cups; 8 oz.)
Baby lima beans
Black beans (turtle beans)
Cannellini
Chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
Cranberry beans (borlotti or
Roman beans)
Flageolets
Great northern beans
Quick-soak beans
Don’t have at least four hours
to soak beans? You can
quick-soak them. In a saucepan, add enough cold water
to cover the beans by 2 inches,
bring quickly to a boil, remove
from the heat, and let soak for
one hour. The results tend to
be less consistent than those
you’d get from a cold-water
soak, but it’s a good trick in
a pinch.
Kidney beans (red, pink, or white)
Navy beans
Pinto beans
Yellow-eye beans
Substituting
canned beans
If you don’t have time to soak
and cook the beans, you can
use canned beans, though
the flavor of your soup won’t
be as rich. You’ll need two
15-ounce cans to make the
3 cups cooked beans needed
(you may have leftover beans).
Rinse and drain before using.
soaked and how old they are. The older the
beans, the longer they take to cook. But the
longer you soak them, the shorter the cooking
time. So the safest way to determine when the
beans are done is to taste them as they cook.
Season with 3⁄4 tsp. kosher salt when the
beans are about three-quarters done. If at
any time the liquid doesn’t cover the beans,
add 1 cup fresh water.
Drain the beans, reserving the cooking
liquid, and discard the bay leaf (the garlic
clove can stay). If you cook the beans in
advance, refrigerate the beans and the cooking liquid separately until you make the soup
(you can cook the beans one day ahead).
BEAN COOKING TIMES
(Times are approximate.)
Baby lima, flageolet, yellow-eye:
3⁄4 to 1 hour
Black, cannellini, cranberry, great
northern, kidney, navy, pinto:
1 to 11⁄ 2 hours
Chickpeas: 11⁄4 to 2 hours
www.finecooking.com
October/November 2007
75
3 Create the flavor foundation
Add the meat
and the meat begins to brown, 5 to
8 minutes. Pour the meat and fat into
a small strainer set over a bowl, and
set the meat aside. Spoon 2 Tbs. of
fat back into the pot, and return it to
medium heat. If you’re not using any
meat, skip to the aromatics.
(optional; see choices below)
Add aromatics
This important step consists of three
consecutive sub-steps that create
the soup’s flavor base.
Heat 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil or
unsalted butter in a 4- to 5-qt. soup
pot or Dutch oven over medium heat.
To give the soup a more savory, meaty
flavor add some bacon (or pancetta)
or fresh (or smoked) sausage. Cook,
stirring often, until the fat is rendered
(see choices below)
Stir in your choice of seasonings
and cook until fragrant, 1 minute.
Add your choice of aromatics and
season with a pinch of kosher salt
and freshly ground black pepper.
Aromatic
choices
Choose one (1⁄4 lb.)
Choose at least two and up
to four in any combination,
for a total of 11⁄ 2 cups
Celery: chopped
Seasoning choices
HERBS & OTHER SEASONINGS
Choose up to three for
a total of 1 Tbs., unless
otherwise noted:
Bulk pancetta: cut into
small dice
Leeks: chopped
Onions: chopped
Dried herbes de
Provence (no more
than 3⁄4 tsp.)
Fresh Italian sausage or
fresh chorizo: out of its
casing and crumbled
Shallots: chopped
Fresh chiles: minced
Smoked or cured sausage
(such as andouille,
chorizo, or kielbasa):
cut into 1⁄ 2-inch pieces
76
Add seasonings
(see choices below)
Meat choices
(optional)
Bacon or thinly sliced
pancetta: cut into
1⁄ 2-inch pieces
Cook, stirring frequently, until they
begin to soften but not brown,
4 to 6 minutes.
F i n e C oo k i n g
By simply varying
the ingredients,
you can create a
winter’s worth of
comforting soups.
Fresh garlic: minced
Tomato paste
Some of the pink and red beans
can turn a muddy shade when
cooked, but you can add 1 Tbs.
tomato paste along with the
seasonings (at right) to deepen
the shade and make it more
appealing. Tomato paste also
adds a concentrated sweetness
welcome in any bean soup, not
just those made with dark beans.
Fresh ginger: minced
Fresh marjoram: chopped
Fresh rosemary: chopped
Fresh sage: chopped
Fresh thyme: chopped
SPICES
Choose up to three for
a total of 1 tsp., unless
otherwise noted:
Crushed red pepper
flakes (no more
than 1⁄4 tsp.)
Ground coriander
Ground cumin
Ground fennel seed
Hot or sweet paprika
(smoked or plain)
4
Add vegetables
& broth
5
Add beans
& more liquid
Add the vegetables, stirring to incorporate with the seasonings and aromatics,
and then add 2 cups of the broth, partially
cover, and simmer until the vegetables are
just barely tender, 10 to 20 minutes.
Add the beans and then add 3 cups of
chicken or vegetable broth and 1 cup of the
reserved bean-cooking liquid. If you have
less than 1 cup bean liquid left from cooking
the beans or if you’re adding the juice from
canned tomatoes, adjust the broth for a total
of 4 cups liquid.
Return the cooked meat to the pot, if
using. Stir to combine and simmer, partially
covered, for 10 minutes to meld the flavors.
Vegetable choices
Choose up to three for a total
of 3 cups
Canned diced tomatoes: drained
(save the juice to add to the broth)
Carrots: peeled and cut into
1⁄4-inch-thick half moons
Cauliflower: cut into 1⁄ 2-inch florets
Celery root: peeled and cut into
1⁄ 2-inch dice
Escarole: coarsely chopped
Fennel: coarsely chopped
Green cabbage: thinly sliced
Parsnips: peeled and cut into
1⁄ 2-inch dice
Red or white potatoes: peeled
and cut into 1⁄ 2-inch dice
Swiss chard: stems chopped and
leaves sliced
Turnips: peeled and cut into
1⁄ 2-inch dice
6 Give the soup a finishing touch
Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Finish your
soup with an acid, if it needs brightening, a sprinkle of fresh herbs, and a
final topping once the soup is ladled into bowls. You may want to reserve
some of the herbs to sprinkle on top of each serving as well. The soup will
keep in the fridge for three or four days, tightly covered. Or you can freeze
it for up to three months. (If making ahead, wait to add the finishing touches
until ready to serve.)
Finishing choices (optional)
ACIDS (optional)
Choose one (1 to 2 tsp.):
Fresh lemon or lime juice
Hot sauce: just a splash
Broth choices
Red-wine, white-wine, sherry,
or Champagne vinegar
Choose one (5 to 6 cups, added
in two steps)
FRESH HERBS
Choose up to two for
a total of 1⁄ 3 cup:
Homemade or store-bought
low-salt chicken broth
Basil: chopped
Homemade vegetable broth
Cilantro: chopped
TOPPINGS
A drizzle of good-quality
olive oil, toasted sesame
oil, chile oil, or herb-infused
oil per serving
A small handful of croutons
per serving
1 Tbs. freshly grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano
per serving
Chives: thinly sliced
Parsley: chopped
Molly Stevens, a contributing editor to Fine Cooking, is an award-winning
cookbook author and cooking teacher. ◆
www.finecooking.com
October/November 2007
77
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