Best Burgers around the State T R AV E LI N ’ LO U I S I A N A PAU L A. G R E E N B E RG It is Friday night in the French Quarter, and it has been raining nonstop since about 9 a.m. At 8 p.m., a group of determined carnivores is gathered on the corner of Burgundy Street and Esplanade Avenue having what one of them calls a sing-in. The group is working hard to belt out that old ’70s tune, Raindrops Keep Fallin’ on My Head. The sight of 30 adults singing in the rain on a New Orleans street corner is irresistible, but if you lived there, you would understand. These folks are waiting for a table to enjoy the best hamburger in the city. Port of Call restaurant has occupied this corner since John F. Kennedy was president. In those days, nobody talked much about cholesterol counts or limiting red meat intake. These days, even though the masses are enlightened about clogged arteries, crowds continue to gather on this corner. They’re all waiting for a seat inside, where most of them will not require a menu. The order is always the same: burger and baked potato. Still, why wait up to an hour — in the rain — for a seat at Port of Call’s table? “Because the hamburgers here are something I can count on,” says Marcy Carter, a New Orleans native who has been patronizing Port of Call for two decades. Marcy is speaking loudly now, because the crowd has segued into a shaky version of Singin’ in the Rain. “Seriously, where else in America would a bunch of grownups hang out on a street corner, getting soaked, just so they can have a hamburger?” Carter asked. “I just wish they’d serve Monsoons out here on the sidewalk.” Carter is referring to Neptune’s Monsoon, the huge, diesel-strength cocktail Port of Call made famous decades ago. The recipe is a secret, but it tastes very much like a Hurricane, so be good to yourself and never drink more than one. After all, you want to be in full control of your faculties when you finally take your first bite of Port of Call’s perfect, juicy burger. Red Meat: A Love Affair Sweet Potato Oven Fries From The New Holly Clegg Trim & Terrific Cookbook (Running Press, 2006) Do not refrigerate sweet potatoes unless they have been cooked. Store in a cool, dry location. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS. 4 medium to large sweet potatoes 1/4 cup olive oil Salt, to taste Parsley, for garnish Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut the sweet potatoes lengthwise into 1/2-inch thick strips and toss with olive oil. Arrange the potatoes on a nonstick baking sheet, coated with nonstick cooking spray. Bake the potatoes for 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown on the bottom. Turn the potatoes over and bake for 15 to 20 more minutes, or until golden brown all over. Sprinkle with salt, add parsley for color, and serve. PAIR WITH: Piesporter Goldtropfchen Spätlese by Schmitt-Sohne. A little fruit will go well with this. So, how long has this love affair with the burger been going on? There are varying tales about the juicy beginnings of hamburgers, but the most commonly accepted tale has everything to do with Louis’ Lunch, a multigenerational culinary love nest in New Haven, Connecticut. According to the Louis’ Lunch Web site, the beginning of the American hamburger was humble: One day in the year 1900, a man dashed into a small New Haven luncheonette and asked for a quick meal that he could eat on the run. Louis Lassen, the establishment’s owner, hurriedly sandwiched a broiled beef patty between two slices of bread and sent the customer on his way, so the story goes, with America’s first hamburger. Guinness Gravy Enoch’s Irish Pub Monroe, LA This gravy can be served on any meat, but is also great on potatoes and traditional Irish dishes like Shepherd’s Pie. It can be easily increased. 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 bunch green onions, finely chopped 2 to 3 stalks celery, finely chopped 1 (10-ounce) can mushroom stems and pieces 1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and diced 1 pound beef debris or shredded roast beef 1 teaspoon thyme, more or less to taste 1 teaspoon oregano, more or less to taste 1 teaspoon basil, more or less to taste 1 teaspoon garlic powder, more or less to taste 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, more or less to taste 1 teaspoon black pepper, more or less to taste 1 (16-ounce) can Guinness Irish Stout 1 quart water 1 to 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 beef bouillon cube 1 teaspoon cornstarch Salt, to taste Others trace the hamburger back to Hamburg, Germany. Still others reference a late 19th-century fair in Hamburg, New York, or the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis, Missouri, which also claims to be the birthplace of the ice cream cone and the hot dog. In fact, so many countries lay claim to the birth of the hamburger that we may never know, but perhaps it does not matter. Of greater importance is that we Louisianans are unabashed meat lovers. Ribs, steaks, chops — you name it, we cook it and consume it, guilt-free. But the hamburger is a staple of our diet, and every town in Louisiana lays claim to the “world’s best burger.” Corner joints like Port of Call abound statewide. By 9 p.m. on the sidewalk outside Port of Call, where the swelling, salivating crowd is by now line-dancing and warbling a version of Achy Breaky Heart, Carter and company finally get a table. “No menus required,” says Carter, who is being gently pushed inside by her boyfriend. “He’s a little grumpy,” she says. “He needs food. Bring on the burgers, please.” Indeed. Chances are, throughout Louisiana on that Friday evening, hundreds of pounds of ground meat are being consumed. In Monroe, those mountains of beef are probably best consumed at Enoch’s Irish Pub, which accurately bills itself as “An Irish Pub with a Louisiana Attitude.” So, how does that play out? Menu items have names like the Eddie Collins Burger, the Galway Mist Mushroom Burger and the Blarney Stone Blue Cheese Burger. “Our burgers are all named after towns, provinces or counties in Ireland,” says owner Enoch Doyle Jeter. “But what separates our burgers — what really makes us original — is the Guinness gravy we serve with all of our sandwiches. It’s a beef broth gravy that is made with Guinness Stout, brown sugar, beef broth and about 20 other spices. But we adapt it to Louisiana taste by throwing in a little bit of cayenne.” Enoch’s also distinguishes itself with its newest burger, the Big Arse Burger, a giant (three-pound) sandwich on French bread with mushrooms, jalapeño peppers, cheese, grilled onions, mayo, mustard, pickles and of course, Guinness gravy. “Guinness gravy is addictive,” Jeter says. At Port of Call, the order is always the same: burger and a baked potato. Stir in Guinness, water and brown sugar. Increase heat and bring to a boil. Add bouillon cube and onion tops. Stir in cornstarch to thicken. Taste for salt and serve. PAIR WITH: Match the Irish sauce with Jameson Irish Whiskey on the rocks. 24 Louisiana Cookin’ August 2007 Photo courtesy of Enoch’s Irish Pub. In a sauce pot, heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Add green onion (green parts only — reserve onion tops), celery, mushrooms with their juice, bell pepper, beef debris, thyme, oregano, basil, garlic powder, and cayenne and black peppers. Sauté until vegetables soften. Does Size Matter? So, does size matter when it comes to burgers? According to one popular burger haunt in Baton Rouge, the answer is decidedly “yes.” Cheeburger Cheeburger, arguably the capital city’s highest-traffic burger stop, lives by the simple motto, “Big is Better.” Picture it: 20 ounces of premium black angus beef, with a choice of almost 30 toppings. Consider chopped garlic, banana peppers, horseradish sauce, onion rings, guacamole and chopped black olives — for starters. Then choose from eight varieties of cheese. Of course not everyone agrees — there is the whole contingent in Baton Rouge that is loyal to George’s, the only restaurant in town confident enough to bill itself as “The Baton Rouge Restaurant.” George’s is to Baton Rouge what Port of Call is to New Orleans — familiar, beloved and consistently delicious. In addition to a fabulous gumbo, the big draw at George’s is the Doug’s Special, a 13-ounce hamburger steak with bacon, onions, ham and cheese. Couple that with the house jalapeño cheese fries, and finish with a generously portioned slice of Mama’s Pecan Pie, and the George’s experience is complete. Size may vary, but savory is forever. In Madisonville, Frank’s Marina Grille offers the Mighty River burger, each individually hand pressed and smothered with sautéed mushrooms and onions and then topped with bacon, cheddar and Swiss cheese. And it all comes in at a mere nine ounces. Somehow, it all tastes so much better with the spectacular riverfront views. The Power of Tradition In Louisiana, food is often the centerpiece of cultural and family tradition. Nowhere is this more evident than at the Southside Bakery in Lafayette. Since 1953, Southside Bakery has been a household name in Lafayette. That was the year the first 3-D movie came out, the first James Bond novel debuted, and the big food news that year was First Lady Mamie Eisenhower’s famed Million Dollar Fudge. But in Lafayette, the Guilbeaux family quietly opened a family business that would eventually become famous for its kolachke (Polish pastry filled with meats, sausages and cheeses). These days, Southside Bakery is as well known for its burgers as it is for its sweets. “My parents started the bakery and it has been a family business ever since,” says Sammy Guilbeaux, owner. “I’m the father of five children and my wife and I work here at the bakery with all of our children. My 27-year-old twin boys are known as the ‘Fabulous Bakery Boys.’” Ask Sammy Guilbeaux what makes his burgers stand out and he will credit his own seasoning mix. “I’m a simple kind of guy and the seasonings have no flavors in them that are foreign to the Louisiana taste,” he says. “I use red and black pepper, salt — nothing fancy, but it is a great mix. I’m not a cook — I’m a baker, but I came up with this recipe.” Tradition, however, does not have to equal inflexible. Guilbeaux has just switched to all-organic beef and flour. “We’re trying to be the healthiest bakery in the area. No antibiotics — no hormones. We’re also going to be a trans-fatfree bakery. We’re going in to all non-hydrogenated products. My children are the future of this place, and I think that’s where the market is going.” Buttermilk Onion Rings From Emeril’s Delmonico (William Morrow Publishers, 2005) MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS. 1 cup buttermilk 1/4 cup hot sauce 3 tablespoons Emeril’s Original Essence or Creole Seasoning, in all 2 large yellow onions, cut into 1/2-inch thick rings Vegetable oil, for frying 2 cups all-purpose flour Whisk together the buttermilk, hot sauce and 2 teaspoons of the Essence in a large bowl. Add the onion rings and press to coat evenly with the buttermilk mixture. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Heat enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a medium pot to 360°F. Combine the flour with 2 tablespoons of the Essence in a shallow bowl. Dredge the onions in the seasoned flour, tossing to coat each ring evenly, and shake off any excess flour. Carefully add the onions to the hot oil, in batches, and fry until golden brown, turning with a spider or longhandled slotted spoon to cook evenly and prevent sticking, about 3 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels and season with the remaining teaspoon Essence. Serve hot. PAIR WITH: Mont-Redon Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc to accompany this as an appetizer or side. Louisiana Cookin’ August 2007 25 Zippy Coleslaw From 500 Fat Free Recipes (Villard Books, 1994) This recipe also has two variations below. MAKES 4 SERVINGS. 5 cups grated white cabbage 1 cup grated green bell pepper 1 cup grated carrot 1/3 cup plain nonfat yogurt 2 tablespoons skim milk 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon white pepper Place cabbage, green pepper and carrot in mixing bowl. Combine yogurt, skim milk, horseradish, garlic and white pepper. Toss the cabbage mixture with the yogurt mixture. Elsewhere, everything old is new again with the reopening of the locally beloved Camellia Grill in New Orleans. First opened seven years before Southside Bakery and just on the heels of World War II, Camellia Grill became famous for its wrap-around counter, chili cheese fries, fried apple pie and phenomenal hamburgers. The standard night of partying in New Orleans almost always ended with a stop at Camellia Grill, where patrons watched line cooks fry up their burgers. After Hurricane Katrina, Camellia Grill was shuttered for 19 months, until new owner Hicham Khodr (who also owns Table One in the Garden District) brought it back to life. Will the waiters become the urban legends they once were? Will the famed Camellia Grill T-shirt still be framed on the wall and sold on premises? Time will tell, but what seems assured is the rebirth of the renowned burgers and buttery buns. The word on the street is that Camellia Grill will be as it has always been, and if you think the lines outside Port of Call are long, wait until you see New Orleanians line up for Camellia Grill. Consider the role burgers have played in the American experience. Everything seems to be accompanied by burgers, from first dates, to power lunches, to benchmark celebrations. As the burger goes, so goes the culture. Paul A. Greenberg is a Louisiana writer whose work has appeared in regional and national publications and Web sites, including People magazine, the Dallas Morning News, The Times-Picayune and America Online. Visit Paul’s Web site: www.GreenbergWrites.com. H O N O R A B LE M E N T I O N S : Yo Mama’s — New Orleans Diner’s choice: The Burger Romanoff with sour cream and caviar (61 different tequilas, as well) Burger Tyme — Lafayette Diner’s choice: The Cajun Blaze Morvant’s Bar & Grill — Youngsville Diner’s choice: Cajun Burger Papa & Company Grille & Sandwich Shop — Shreveport Diner’s choice: Huge burgers and buns baked on site. Tell us about your favorite burger joint! Email [email protected] 26 Louisiana Cookin’ August 2007 ALSO TRY: For a slaw with a mustard-flavored dressing, place cabbage, bell pepper and carrot in a mixing bowl. Add 1 grated onion. Toss with a dressing of 4 tablespoons nonfat mayonnaise, 3 tablespoons nonfat yogurt, 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon sugar and 2 teaspoons celery seed. Thin dressing with skim milk, if necessary. OR: Place cabbage, green bell pepper and carrot in mixing bowl. Toss with a dressing of 1/2 cup nonfat sour cream, 1/4 cup plain nonfat yogurt, 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard and 1/4 teaspoon paprika. PAIR WITH: Sam Adams Lager will fit this snappy dish. Bonnie’s Better Burger Bonnie Guilliot New Orleans, LA This is our editor’s recipe for hamburgers good enough to be served as a steak. MAKES 8 SERVINGS. 1 1/2 pounds ground sirloin 1 1/2 pounds ground chuck 1/2 onion, very finely diced 1 tablespoon minced garlic Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning, to taste 1 to 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon Crystal hot sauce Place all ingredients in a large glass mixing bowl. Using your hands, gently combine and form into patties. Grill or fry to desired doneness and dress with whatever you like. See “Tips & Techniques” on page 28 for more tips on making a better burger. PAIR WITH: A burger this tasty begs for a top class Champagne: Perrier Jouët Grand Brut. Grilling on Southern Hardwoods Coming Soon to — Since 1985 • Monthly Wine Dinners • Live Piano Thurs., Fri. & Sat. Evenings • Seasonal Menu • Award Winning Wine List • Bar Remains Open Throughout the Day 900 Camp St. New Orleans, LA 70130 337-981-0108 • www.CharleyGs.com 3809 Ambassador Caffery Parkway • Lafayette, LA 70503 www.SouthernFood.org TOURISM INFO Louisiana Office of Tourism 225.342.8100 or 800.765.6492 LouisianaTravel.com Baton Rouge Area Convention & Visitors Bureau 225.383.1825 or 800.LARouge VisitBatonRouge.com Lafayette Convention & Visitors Commission 337.232.3737 or 800.346.1958 LafayetteTravel.com New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau 800.672.6124 NewOrleansCVB.com Monroe-West Monroe Convention & Visitors Bureau 318.387.5691 or 800.843.1872 Monroe-WestMonroe.org New Orleans Tourism 504.524.4784 or 866.380.5233 NewOrleansOnline.com FEATURED BUSINESSES Burger Tyme 502 Degeyter Road Breaux Bridge, LA 70517 337.332.3675 Camellia Grill 626 S. Carrollton Ave. New Orleans, LA 70118 504.866.9573 Cheeburger Cheeburger 6725 Siegen Lane Baton Rouge, LA 70809 225.296.0395 Cheeburger.com Enoch’s Irish Pub & Cafe 507 Louisville Ave. Monroe, LA 71201 318.388.3662 EnochsIrishPub.com Frank’s Marina Grille 100 Marina Del Ray Blvd. Madisonville, LA 70447 985.792.4000 FranksMarinaGrille.com George’s — the Original 2943 Perkins Road Baton Rouge, LA 70809 225.296.0395 GeorgesBR.com Morvant’s Bar & Grill 200 Lafayette St. Youngsville, LA 70592 337.856.7469 Papa & Company Grille & Sandwich Shop 545 E. Washington St. Shreveport, LA 71104 318.869.2635 Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave. New Orleans, LA 70116 504.523.0120 PortOfCallNewOrleans.com St. Tammany Parish Tourist & Convention Commission 985.892.0520 or 800.634.9443 NewOrleansNorthshore.com Southside Bakery 2801 Johnston St. Lafayette, LA 70503 337.233.8636 SouthsideBakery.com Yo Mama’s 727 Saint Peter St. New Orleans, LA 70116 504.522.1125