GB VISIT SUSAK traditional costume from susak/gornje selo donje selo/vineyards chapel/cemetery Susak is a unique island in the Adriatic Sea, both by its genesis and appearance. The ancient winds deposited thick layers of fine yellowish sand onto the limestone plate and since time immemorial people planted reeds around their fields. The roots of the reeds, in search for water, penetrate deep into the soil and preserve it from erosion. The island occurred very early on 4 the nautical charts, first under the Roman name Sansacus or Sansegus, which probably derives from “sampsychon” (Greek - marjoram), which resulted in the Croatian name of Susak. First mention of the island in written sources dates back to the middle of the 9th century, when the Saracen and Venetian armies clashed in the waters near the island. The largest population of Susak was recorded after the 2nd World War. In the sixties of the last century, mass emigration to the USA depleted the population. It is estimated that today in America there are 2,500 Susakers, mainly in the state of New Jersey. From 1985 onwards, «Immigrants’ Day» is celebrated on Susak the last day of July. The first settlement, whose beginnings date back to Roman times, was built on the fertile plateau and is called Gornje selo (“the upper village”), while Donje selo (“the lower village”) is located in the harbour and was built at a later date, during the largest boom of the grape growing in the late 19th century. Because of its isolation, Susak has preserved its archaic speech (protected as a part of the cultural heritage) and the specific customs and colourful costumes. 5 Lighthouse on Garba, 1876 CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS The lighthouse was built on the highest point of the island of Susak, the top Garba (98 m), in the area where the hill fort stood in prehistoric times, and later an important observation place, and one of the largest and most important lighthouses in the area. At the time of the first tourism expansion in the late 19th and early 20th century it served as a lookout, and tickets could be bought in the harbour of Mali Lošinj. Gornje Selo - Donje Selo Stairs (Spjaža) Settlement in the port was named Donje selo, while the older was called Gornje selo. In 1906, in order to facilitate communication between the settlements, the stairs were constructed. During the 30’s of the 20th century a part of the port was gritted and pier with a dock for larger ships was built. During the 20th century Gornje selo, besides the church, retained only housing function. All other important functions were located in Donje selo 7 (local administration, school, post office, shop, fish canning factory, port). Interestingly, INA (oil company) erected 46 m tall tower in 1968 in search for oil on Spjaža, but nothing was found. Roman settlement Gornje Selo, Puntina The island of Susak was known to the Antique period mariners, but studied written sources do not provide information about the existence of settlements in this period. Most likely that some minor settlement or a residential-economic complex existed in the Roman times on the island due to the extremely fertile soil suitable for growing vines and other cultures and the possibility of fishing. In favour of this theory testify finds of architectural plastic from that time: Antique period stone crown, which is now built in as spolia in the northern wall of the church in Gornje selo; a fragment of an Antique column shaft, an Antique architectural fragment embedded in house number 476, and part of the Antique inscription built in threshold of the 8 door of the abandoned Benedictine abbey. Besides that, numerous fragments of Roman glass and pottery were found in a landslide at the western foot of the steep regions of the settlement. The existence of an Antique architecture was also recorded at the site Puntini. A tombstone inscription by Sextus Julius Niger testifies of the first immigrants . It was discovered in the 18th century as spolia built into the walls of some plain Susak house, but today this monument is lost. Fish canning factory Donje Selo, 1939-1964 The sea around the island of Susak is well known as the best fishing waters for anchovies in the whole Kvarner region. Before the rise of viticulture, the residents of Susak were mostly fishermen, and at the beginning of the 19th century some 384 individuals were indicated as fishermen. Anchovies were caught by trawl-nets (trata). Until 1940 the Susak fishermen owned 12 to 15 trata for anchovies, and the last vanished in 1963. Susak had 22 fishermen’s pošte (fishing positions) for which lots were regularly drawn, when there were several fishing parties going for fishing under the lights. Fishing party on one boat-purse seiner numbered up to 24 people, which could annually catch between 20 and 30, even up to 40 cars of anchovies. Until the end of the 19th century the fish was caught using the glavnje light (fire on the grid in front of the bow of the lightboat) or several glavnje. Fishing was very difficult, using only oars and sails. The first fishing motor was acquired by the residents of Susak in 1929. Anchovies were caught from April to September, needle fish in November and December, and minnows from January to the end of March. Occasionally, zagonica net was used for catching dentex and salema. The company “Igino Mazzola” from Murano near Venice built a fish processing factory on Susak in 1939. In 1940 it employed around 150 workers with a daily processing capacity of 4 tons. Although damaged by Allied bombing, the factory continued to operate until 1964 when it was shut down because of diminish- ment of the fishing fleet. The factory building was demolished in 1982, and a shop (Market) was built in its place, while the administration building has been preserved to this day. The Susak families still salt the anchovies as part of the traditional diet. Communal house Donje Selo, 1952 Building of a Communal house, which was the main gathering place and centre of social life for residents of Susak, was built in 1952 and ten years later it remained virtually empty because of mass emigration to the United States. The Emigrants club was opened in 1988 in the same building besides post office and infirmary. Although the emigration of island’s population “in search for a better life” was common since the end of the 19th century, the “exodus” of Susak in the 50’s and 60’s of the 20th century is a peculiar phenomenon for several reasons. Specifically, a series of laws concerning “agrarian reform” adopted 9 by former (Yugoslav) authorities made the Susak viticulture and wine production unprofitable and unsustainable. As a consequence, the residents of Susak collectively emigrated, and vast majority went to the city of Hoboken, New Jersey, while the population of Susak declined from 1760 as registered in 1945 to 320 mostly elderly residents in 1971. It is estimated that today in the U.S. reside around 2500 people originating from Susak, while on the island of Susak resides around 200 people! Emigrants 10 in New Jersey are gathered around the church of St. Ann in Hoboken, and the church of St. John the Baptist in Fairview. They also established their own societies (St. Nicholas Society of Sansego, Susak Klapa, etc.), and since 1985 at the end of July they celebrate Immigrants’ Day, when many “Amerikoni” come to Susak in increasing numbers, and during the summer months renovate houses of their grandparents and ornate them in a distinctive style that combines the local features with American influences. Parish church of St. Nicholas, (12th century), 1770 Church of St. Nicholas in today’s form was built in 1770 by the first Susak pastor Jerolim Simčić, but its origin is much older and goes back to the Middle Ages as evidenced by stone lunette with the relief of the cross, which is built as spolia into the church façade. A large Romanesque crucifix and a wooden statue of St. Nicholas are preserved of the older church inventory. After a thorough renovation of the church in 1964, a new altarpiece painted by the academic painter Bruno Bulić, depicting St. Nicholas kneeling by the Virgin Mary with Child and praying the intercession for Susak and boat on the stormy sea, was set onto the main marble Baroque altar. 18 meters high bell tower was erected in the 18th century next to the church. All stone material for the purpose of construction of the parochial complex was shipped from Istria, because there was no stone on the whole island. 11 „Veli Buoh“– romanesque crucifix, 12th century 12 A large painted Romanesque crucifix (height: 433 cm, width: 220 cm), among the local population known as “Veli Buoh” or “Veli Križ” (“Large Cross”), allegedly floated to Susak from Italy on 3rd May, which is celebrated for centuries and is marked by the procession from the parish church of St. Nicholas to a place called Kel Križa above the Pot Tarnak Bay where the crucifix was originally found. It is possible that the ship carrying the crucifix shipwrecked near Susak and that it was thrown on the coast by the sea. According to another legend, the residents of Susak reduced the entrance to the church in order to prevent the removal of the crucifix by the wish of some bishop from Osor, but it has no foothold in reality. The crucifix was made in the 12th century and in a typically Romanesque manner displays the crucified Christ alive with eyes wide open and showing no signs of suffering, a Christ who reigns from the cross and wins over death. During the restoration in 1964 it was determined that all the parts of the crucifix, except arms and legs to the knees, are original. Cemetery and chapel of our Lady of Sorrows - Gornje Selo The first Susak cemetery was located near the parish church of St. Nicholas (Cimatorij), but due to the rapid development of the settlement, a new cemetery was constructed around 1818 (today’s cemetery at Merine). Cemetery chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows was built in the early 20th century. Considering that there are no common trees and that the view spreads onto the newly renovated vineyards and the open sea, the cemetery possesses an unusually bright and clear effect. Chapel of Our Lady of Annunciation on Art, around 1930 Considering that the residents of Susak very often could not perform their vows to the Virgin Mary in the votive chapel of Our Lady of Annunciation in Čikat due to bad weather, during the 30’s of the 20th century they constructed a votive chapel of the same name on a position from which the Lošinj Annunziata is best seen, on the Art site. 13 COSTUMES Customs of a female traditional dress on the island of Susak are very well preserved, with several different variants associated with specific age and certain occasions. Older variant of the Susak costumes, so called “by Susak“ style (po susacku) is characterised by white linen shirt (kosula) closed around the neck, waistcoat (bust) which tightens and accentuates the waist, and bravaruol (scarf) that descends down the chest to the waist. From the waist down the body is covered by kamizot crni (black) or lasćavi (shiny), a short skirt richly frilled and composed of as many as 7 woven halves (pola) of the fabric sewn along the edges, and then puckered into wider or narrower folds made of finished cotton material. The lower kamizot is made of the same cut as the upper one, only in white. The bottom skirt is called sukna skarlata and it is of much narrower cut, red in colour and richly adorned with lace and colourful ribbons. During the dance, the two topmost kamizot are elevated and 14 sukna skarlata comes to the fore. The underpants (mudande) are decorated with lace. The feet are covered by knitted woollen kalcete (socks), sometimes red and parti-coloured socks or slippers (carape, papuce or pute) made of cloth. The style of combing is also unique. The hair is parted in two identical sections while two frontal twisted strands (rici) are left hanging by the face. The rest of the hair is flatly braided onto the head in form of a cake, so called kokum, while square patterned scarf (facuol), usually red or in darker colours, is set over the head. Slightly modified and denuded variant of costumes po susacku, can still be seen on a few elderly ladies on the island. Another, newer variant is called “by Lošinj“ style (po losinsku), and as the name itself suggests, it was influenced by the Lošinj fashion from the late 18th century. This style was practiced by young girls during the festive occasions and in the most luxurious form it has been preserved in a wedding equipment of a bride. It consists of a pink silk blouse (zabajka), richly decorated with colourful ribbons, lace, metallic threads and glass balls on the chest, upper back and sleeves. Kamizot na faldice is also pink, with apron (tarvijerslica) made of pink silk with wide borders decorated in the same way as the bust/sleeves of zabajka worn over it. Underneath, three underskirts, very starched (inkolane) and reinforced with a wide wheel in the lower part, are worn. Sukna rakamana is present as well, and it is also of narrower cut and more richly decorated than in the po susacku style. Mudande with lace are present again as the undermost layer of clothing. Feet are covered by pink kalcete and leather shoes (postoli). Brides are wearing wedding crown, jirlanda or vijel, on their heads. Last wedding in the traditional zabajka on Susak was recorded in the 1980’s! Although Susak costumes are well known for exceptionally short skirts - miniskirts, the fact is that the costumes shortened during the 20’s of the 20th century under the influence of bourgeois fashion. Until then, the female kamizot reached until to the middle of the calf. 15 at Baldarka Bo k Mesto k sa 30 min Su ica l Va la ko Ni v. S 91 at 15 min 10 min 40 min ka Nasuzanski V. Draga Potam 500 m 1000 m ak ibo k Si Zal Pu Tijesni 20 min 15 min a nt 20 min 5 min 30 min SUSAK Por NATURAL ATTRACTIONS Grabrovica va dr a ga Ar LEGEND: Footpaths Start point Panoramic view Walking time Peak Church, chapel FOOTPATHS Technical characteristics: Highest point: Garba hill (98 m) Total length of the paths: about 8 km Walking time: marked on the map for each section Terrain: sand Suitable for: walking 18 Immigrants’ Day EVENTS It takes place on the island of Susak on the last Sunday of the month of July, when Susak-born people who now live all over the world (mostly in Hoboken, New Jersey, USA) come to their homeland. During the entire day, plenty of sports and recreational activities are available. DAY OF THE CROSSES, THIRD SUNDAY IN JULY “Veli buoh” and all other crosses are carried in the procession from the church to the shore to bless the sea. The procession then reaches the well which is also blessed in prayers, and then continues to the church square. Twelve men dressed in traditional costumes carry the cross. 21 BEACHES/SWIMMING SPJAŽA Bok Beautiful sandy beach located in Donje selo, in the vicinity of the port. This is a perfect beach for families with children due to shallow waters and sandy coastline. Here you can rent sunbeds, pedal boats, and the beach is great for different water activities such as the famous „picigin“, water volleyball and football. Bok Beach is a beautiful sandy beach and a true paradise for anyone who enjoys the sea and swimming. Here you can bask in the shallow waters and fine warm sand. The beneficial effect of the sand, sea, and sun was recognised in early 20th century when the Bok Beach was declared a bathing resort (Seebad Sansego). The spas and sanatoriums of Lošinj used to include the healing powers of sun, air, and sandy baths, as well as grape therapy on Susak as a part of their health programmes. Due to shallow waters and sandy coastline, the Bok Beach is ideal for families with children. There is barely any shade or significant vegetation on the beach. The location of the beach is about 15 minutes on foot from Donje and Gornje selo. The warm shallow waters and gentle hot sand are still considered beneficial for women suffering from infertility. 23 SUSAK PORT AND BOK BERTH: Susak 396 M: + 385 95 849 36 64 E: [email protected] W: luka-susak.com BEACHES/PORTS Services: mooring, water, electricity Bok Berth: 30 buoy BEACHES Bok Bay and Dragočaj Sansego T: +385 1 231 75 57 M: +385 98 82 82 74 E: [email protected] Renting: sunbeds, natural material parasols, pedal boats, internet, amenities 25 ISLAND SPECIALITIES / LOCAL CUISINE KONOBA ANKORA Susak 13 M: +385 99 838 89 09 Local specialities: island lamb, brodeto Capacity: Indoor: 20 seats Terrace: 60 seats 27 KONOBA BARBARA Susak 603 T: +385 51 239 128 M: +385 98 90 35 479 E: [email protected] W: apartmani.barbara-susak.org Island specialities: Susak calamari, Roasted island lamb in Susak manner, Asparagus soup (seasonal only), Seasonal salad with broad beans from Susak, Salty sardines with arugula in Susak manner Indoor: 30 seats / Terrace: 40 seats KONOBA VERA Susak 67 T: +385 51 239 012 M: +385 98 906 70 56 Island specialities: Susak calamari risotto Capacity: Indoor: 24 seats Terrace: 80 seats 28 PIZZERIA – PATISSERIE SUSAK Susak 59 M: +385 98 168 66 72 E: [email protected] Island specialities: Susak Pizza, Susak Salad. Susak Icecream Cup, Susak Cake Terrace: 130 seats Fast food Palma Susak 127 M: +385 99 66 39 434 E: [email protected] Island specialities: Susak octopus salad, Eggs and asparagus, Salads Capacity: 100 seats 29 LOCAL PRODUCTS OPG (FAMILY FARM) AntOn Tarabokija Susak 183 T: +385 51 239 079 M: +385 99 687 16 12; +385 98 963 16 00 E: [email protected] Offer: Wine, grapes, figs, tomatoes, potato, and broad beans 31 Sveta Katarina Bakery Susak 406 M: +385 95 547 42 00 E: [email protected] Offer: Making and sale of pastries; Sansegus pizza with island oregano, pašamete (local name for a type of cracker bread) Trgovina 307 Groceries Susak 354 T: +385 51 239 044 M: + 385 98 779 98 77 E: [email protected] Local products: Souvenirs, postcards from the island 32 VALA SHOP Susak bb T: +385 51 239 119 M: +385 91 395 66 77 + 385 91 543 43 50 E: [email protected] Local products: souvenirs from the island of Susak Sansego T: +385 1 231 75 57 M: +385 98 82 82 74 E: [email protected] Souvenirs: flute from Susak, Susak dolls, Hourglass; Map of the island of Susak, Reed fishing rod Point of sale: stand in Dragočaj Bay 33 Small & Friendly Hotel & restaurant SMALL & FRIENDLY HOTEL AND RESTAURANT ACCOMMODATION Susak bb Open: April - October T: +385 51 239 036 M: +385 91 984 00 67 E: [email protected] The first hotel on the island, Sansegus Hotel offers a pleasant, relaxing ambiance and everything you need for your holiday. Every room in our hotel tells its own story and awaits you to become a part of it. In our restaurant you can enjoy island and Adriatic specialities and taste a carefully chosen selection of Croatian wine. Some of our specialities include: • Fennel soup from Susak • Calamari with polenta in Susak manner • Stew with home-made gnocchi 35 • Grilled lamb marinated in island herbs • Šurlice (pasta) with sauce made from local tomatoes and wild oregano • Turkey fillet in Adriatic shrimp sauce with puree made from homegrown broccoli • Asparagus in many ways (seasonal) • Ravioli with prosciutto and sage sauce • Duck from Srakane al forno (ovenbaked) • Beefsteak with cheese from the island of Pag • Home-made bread with olive oil and herbs Offer: Accommodation and catering, local specialities, wine-tasting bar, souvenir shop, organising team building and other events, bike rental, and other travel services. 36 Susak – Sansego *** Susak 550 / 55a / 612 D/ 612 L /622 House Dinka / House Jovanica / House Dumica /House Tonuca For 6 / 4 / 6 / 6 / 6 / 6 people Distance to the sea: 500 m Open: April - November TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes (up to 10 kg) T: +385 40 562 749 E: [email protected] W: susak.si Bušić Ribarić Barbara *** Susak 601 Studio apartment *** for 2 people Room *** for 2 people Distance to the sea: 500 m Open: April - October TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes T: +385 51 239 128 M: +385 98 903 54 79 E: [email protected] W: apartmani.barbara-susak.org 37 CvetkOvić Katica ** Susak 272 Room for 4 people Distance to the sea: 50 m Open: 1 June - 30 September TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes M: +385 95 833 66 99 E: katica.cvetković@me.com Grgac Krešo*** Susak 220 4 apartments – each for up to 4 people Distance to the sea: 60 m Open: 15 May - 15 September TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes M: +385 91 176 22 16 E: [email protected] W: apartmani-grgac-susak.com 38 Hekrvi LidIja *** Susak 293 2 apartments for 4 people 1 apartment for 3 people Distance to the sea: 100 m Open: all year TV: no Internet: no Pets: no T: +385 51 239 045 M: +385 98 193 98 94 E: [email protected] W: susak-apartmani.com Kecerin Biserka *** Susak 623 For 4 people Distance to the sea: 300 m Open: May - October TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes M: +385 91 463 75 38 +385 91 506 95 05 E: [email protected] W: susakhouse.eu 39 Krvavica Zlatan Susak 252 House for 4+1 people Distance to the sea: 50 m Open: all year TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes T: +385 51 239 084 M: +385 99 252 6397 E: [email protected] Markovčić Kostelac Maja **** Susak 292 Accommodation for 4 people +2 Distance to the sea: 100 m Open: May - October TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes T: +385 1 298 9054 / +385 51 239 036 M: +385 99 211 12 16 / +385 97 739 7617 E: [email protected] W: gdjenamore.com 40 Matijašec Biljana Susak 137 2 apartments for 3 people 1 apartment for 2 people Distance to the sea: 200 m Open: June - September TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: no T:+385 51 239 028 M: +385 98 911 96 61 E: [email protected] W: otoksusak.com Picinić AntOn *** Susak 108 House for 6 people Distance to the sea: 100 m Open: 1 July – 30 September TV: no Internet: no Pets: yes T: +385 51 239 005 M: +385 98 779 887 E: [email protected] 41 Picinić Dinko *** Susak 212 Apartment “Spijaža“*** for 3 people Distance to the sea: 20 m Open: 1 May - 1 October TV: no Internet: yes Pets: yes M: +385 98 919 71 42 E: [email protected] Rudić Maria *** Susak 99 Apartment for 8 people Distance to the sea: 20 m Open: 01. 05.-30. 10. TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: no T: +385 51 239 099 N: +385 98 947 5304 E: [email protected] 42 SARŠON DANICA *** Susak 301 Apartment for 2 people Distance to the sea: 20 m Open: 1 May - 31 October TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes T: +385 51 239 150 ; +385 51 218 139 M: +385 91 588 3747 E: [email protected] Tarabokija Anton ** / *** Susak 427 **, 430 ***, 155 *** 427 for 3 people / 430 for 4 people / 155 for 4 + 1 people Distance to the sea: 150 m TV: no / no / yes Internet: no Pets: no Open: 1 May - 31 October House no. 155 open all year T: +385 51 239 079 M: +385 99 687 16 12 / +385 98 963 16 00 E: [email protected] 43 Tarabokija Gaudenzija *** Susak 389*** 2 apt for 2 people (total for 4 people) Susak 390*** 1 apartment for 3 people 1 apartment for 4 people 2 double rooms with total of 4 beds T: +385 51 239 045 M: +385 98 193 98 94 E: [email protected] W: susak-apartmani.com Vidović Dragan ** / *** Susak 378 A ** Apartment for 3 people *** Room for 2 people Distance to the sea: 500 m Open: 1 June - 1 October TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: no T:+385 51 239 009 Totić Slobodan *** *Kvarner Family: hospitality with a guarantee Would you like to get a first-hand experience of the authentic life on Kvarner and have an ideal holiday in private accommodation? Are you interested in fishermen’s stories, old captains’ stories or tales of people from Kvarner, small towns or owners of isolated houses where you can live in touch with the nature? Would you like to try local specialties, pick vegetables from your hosts’ gardens and season them with home-made olive oil and give a toast with excellent local wine? 44 Susak 147 Apartment for 3 people Distance to the sea: 100 m Open: 1 May - 30 September TV: yes Internet: yes Pets: yes T: +385 51 239 012 45 INFO BASIC INFORMATION USEFUL INFORMATION Main settlement: Susak, the island of Susak (Town of Mali Lošinj area) Area: 3.77 km2 Coastline: 12,921 km Inhabitants: 151 Doctor / infirmary: Susak bb Opening hours: January – December, 9 am - 11 am T: + 385 51 239 003 Traffic The area of the island of Susak is a pedestrian zone. There are no cars on the island, except tractors, emergency vehicles, motorcycles, and bicycles. The roads are either dirt or concrete lanes for pedestrians. The old town of Susak is built of stone or tile for water permeability. Any kind of traffic is forbidden, as well as leaving bicycles and motorbikes on beaches, promenades, and green surfaces. Pharmacy: not available Water supply Water supply of the island is provided by boats – water carriers. Arrival Susak can be reached by boat from Mali Lošinj and by catamaran from Rijeka and Mali Lošinj. There are no cars on the island of Susak and the surrounding islands of the archipelago. The main means of transport are tractors and wheelbarrows. TIC Tourist Information Centre Susak is located in the Communal house and operates in the summer months. Here you can register your stay and find more information about the island. Post office: Susak bb t: +385 51 239 118 Cash withdrawal and currency exchange. Bank: not available ATM: not available Exchange office: at the post office Bicycle or motorbike rental: not available Internet: in most bars and restaurants 47 Town of Mali Losinj Tourism Office Riva lošinjskih kapetana 29 / HR – 51550 MALI LOŠINJ, Croatia Tel: +385 51 231 884, Tel: +385 51 231 547 / Fax: +385 51 233 373 E-mail: [email protected] www.tz-malilosinj.hr IMPRESSUM: Publisher: | TZG Malog Lošinja; for the publisher: | Đurđica Šimičić; photographs: | Marko Vrdoljak, Sandro Tariba, Dean Miculinić, Robert Kalčić, Borka Širola, Lada Sega arhiva TZGMl design and production: | WANDA x wanda-dsgn.hr
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