T HE CUISINE OF IRAQ AND OTHER M IDDLE E ASTERN RECIPES Safa Abdulla Toma Sabria Farid Toma (Bibi) T ABLE OF C ONTENTS About the Authors Introduction About this Book and Middle Eastern Cooking Ingredient Descriptions Ingredient Cross-Reference Index APPETIZERS, SALADS, CONDIMENTS, SPICES & FIRST COURSES Baba Ghanouge Egg rolls (1)(Boorek) Egg rolls (2) (Shamboorek) Stuffed Potato Patties (Potato Chop) Potato Chop in a Pan White Bean Salad Greek Salad Yogurt & Cucumber Dip (Tzadziki) Hot-Pepper Paste (Harissa Paste) Bread & Cucumber Salad (Fattoosh) Falafel Himmus Bitahini Mini Meat Pizzas (Laham Be-Ajeen) Flat Breakfast Sausage (Bastirma) Tabuli Preserved Lemons Pickled Vegetables (Torshi) Pickled Eggplant Pickled Turnip Vegetable Chutney (1) Vegetable Chutney (2) Muhamar Middle Eastern Spice (Boharat) Ras El Hanout Spice RICE & GRAINS ENTRÉES Basic Cooked Rice Rice with Saffron, Almonds, & Raisins Couscous Rice & Cabbage Mujaddara Rice for Stuffing Parda Pilaf (Parda Pilaw) Rice with Fideo Pasta (Timman Be-Shaaria) Rice with Fava Beans Beriani Chicken Turnover (Maklooba) Fish Turnover (Imtabbak) Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolma) Leg of Lamb (Koozy) Lemon Chicken with Bulgur SAUCES, TAGINES, BISQUES & OTHER MAIN ENTRÉES Chicken with Ginger & Garbanzo Beans Chicken with Eggs, Lemons, & Olives Casablanca Turnip Stew Stuffed Zucchini (Koosa) Chicken Curry Chicken Bastilla Chicken Tagine Moroccan Duck with Tagine Stuffed Eggplant (Sheikh Mehshee) Maldhoom Eggplant Imsakaa Eggplant Madfoonah Oven-Barbecued Fish with Traditional Stuffing Fish Curry Tagine of Fish (1) Tagine of Fish (2) Fish Stuffed with Eggs, Onions, & Preserved Lemons Shish Kabob Kibba (Kibbi) Traditional Kibba Mousel Pan Kibba Small Kibba Small Kibba with Eggplant Kibbi Niyee Cream of Rice Kibba (Kibba Hamidh) Cream of Rice Kibba with Garbanzo Beans Meatloaf with Bulgur (Arough Muslawia) Meat Patties (Kufta) Wheat Stew (Hareesah) Red Lentil Soup (Adas Soup) Harira Soup Meatball Stew (Ras Asfoor) Mrouziya Stew Okra Stew (Bamia) Patcha Stuffed Tripe (Keebayat) Pot Roast Stew (Daube) Shebzy Handmade Sausage with Garbanzo Beans (Bumbar) Garbanzo Beans Casserole (Tishreeb Himmus) Fava Beans Casserole (Tishreeb Bajilla) DESSERTS Stuffed Flaky Cookies (Klaichah) Baklava Zardah Bil Haleeb Rice Pudding Um Ali Sesame Cookies (Semsemia) Turkish Coffee Mint Tea A BOUT THE A UTHORS S abria Farid Toma, mother of three and grandmother of five, was born in Iraq in 1926. Her father was a schoolteacher by profession and an artist, carpenter, and writer by hobby. Being a schoolteacher in that part of the world meant many transfers between villages and towns for him and his family and Sabria spent her childhood in several cities. During her teenage years and adult life, Sabria finally settled in Basrah, Iraq, which is situated in the southernmost part of Iraq and is its second largest city. It was in Basrah that Sabria met her husband, the father of their three children, the late Dr. Yousif Abdulla. Sabria was as talented as her father. A high school English teacher by profession, she enjoyed painting, sewing and, most of all, cooking. Sabria cooked for her family for over 50 years. During these years, she cooked traditional dishes, creating and developing variations of her own. These variations not only improved the taste and texture of the food but also reduced the fat and cholesterol content. In 1977, Sabria and her family migrated to the United States of America, settling in California. In the US, Sabria had to adjust to a new lifestyle; a different culture and she had to adapt her cooking habits and techniques to this new culture. The variety of new and unfamiliar cooking tools, ingredients, spices, and other factors made this transformation even more challenging. As a result, Sabria adapted her recipes to the methods and ingredients that were readily available in the area, and in the process was able to simplify the preparation of many previously complex traditional dishes. As time passed, Sabria’s three children married and left the home. Her husband passed away in 1993. She kept a strong bond with all of her children and grandchildren and the family would assemble every Friday in Sabria’s house (with a few cousins, aunts, and other relatives as well) to enjoy a traditionally cooked meal. In the year 2000, Sabria was introduced to the world of computers. Using a Macintosh SE30 (moth-balled by one of her sons) then an iMac, she learned to use the word processor, joined a writing class by mail, and started to write stories about her past. She received two certificates in ‘Writing to Sell Fiction.’ Painting was Sabria’s other passion; over 30 oil paintings adorned her house, most of which reflected events, sites, and people from her past. For years, Sabria and one of her sons, Safa, worked on publishing a cookbook that contained the wonderful recipes she prepared for her family. They wanted to do this to preserve the cooking tradition for many generations to come. It took a phenomenal effort to compile all the recipes and translate the ingredients used from the traditional portions of pinches and heaps into recognized measures of teaspoons, tablespoons, and cups. After the recipes were entered into the computer, every single one had to undergo the painstaking task of editing and tweaking to be as complete as possible. As the Internet and the World Wide Web became popular, it was obvious that putting the book online would reach a larger distribution base. This book is an abbreviated version of the full copy available for sale on Amazon’s Kindle®. In the Kindle® version, you’ll find all of the recipes listed in the Table of Contents, above. Sabria passed away in December of 2003. She will live in us forever. Safa would like to hear from you. He wants to know if you have something in common, or if you have a word of encouragement, support, or constructive criticism about this cookbook, or related topics. Please feel free to send an e-mail message to [email protected]. Please understand that Safa cannot reply to all messages. I NTRODUCTION I t pleases me to introduce you to the tasty and joyful experience of Middle Eastern cooking. The history, location, and fertility of the land of Mesopotamia (currently Iraq) encouraged the creation of a tremendous variety of dishes. Some are distinctive to that region while others are imported from all around the area and parts of Europe. After five decades of cooking for her family, my mother, Sabria Farid Toma, has opened up her cooking to you. Some recipes have been handed down unchanged for generations; others have been changed over the years to suit our health-conscious times. For example, I eliminate frying whenever possible, use vegetable oil instead of saturated fats, and incorporate leaner meats. My mother and I have cooked these authentic foods in the US for over 20 years now and we spent several years compiling and documenting these recipes to be able to share them with our relatives, countrymen, and all cooks who love Middle Eastern cuisine. We don’t use any out-ofthe-ordinary ingredients; everything can be obtained at supermarkets, local import stores, healthfood stores or Middle Eastern food stores. Middle Eastern dishes are delightfully aromatic and full of flavor and texture. The spices used in each dish add a distinctive taste that can be matched by no other. Each dish is a symphony of goodness: protein, fiber, vitamins, and taste. Go ahead – cook a Middle Eastern meal. Enjoy yourself, excite your senses, and do it in good health. Unlike most other cookbooks, this one encourages you to modify the recipes to suit your taste: Increase or reduce the seasoning to your taste, eliminate an ingredient if you do not like it or add more if you do. Most recipes in this book are minor variations of age-old recipes that have been artfully modified to suit the modern taste. So go ahead, experiment and create your own local variation and share it with pride. Also, I want you to share your ideas about this book with me. Please e-mail your comments, ideas, results of recipes, proposed corrections, or whatever you think is appropriate to info@CuisineOfIraqcom. Thanks. Safa Abdulla Toma A BOUT THIS B OOK AND M IDDLE E ASTERN C OOKING I n order to make this book easy to read and use, I have included the following unique features. Please read them and become familiar with them, as they will help make your experience with this book a joyful one. List of Ingredients: At the beginning of every recipe you will find the list of ingredients used. The ingredients in the list are arranged in the same order that they are used in the recipe. You will sometimes find an ingredient listed twice because it is required to be used in two different steps in the preparation, so follow the instructions, and add each ingredient as it appears and is required. In addition to the list of ingredients, you may find a descriptive paragraph that refers to similar recipes or provides additional information. Recipe Instructions: The recipe instructions have been broken down into paragraphs in which you will find certain words that have been highlighted in either bold or italics. Bold: The ingredients are printed in bold as they appear in the body of the recipe. For example: “Slice eggplants lengthwise into 1⁄4-inch-thick slices.” You will notice that the ingredient appears in bold only the first time it is mentioned (unless it is used twice). Italics: The time required for cooking is italicized. For example: “Cook covered for 30 minutes.” These features allow you to simply glance at the recipe and find the variable in question. Most ingredients used in the recipes of this book are common and available in ordinary supermarkets. However, a few are not so common and can only be found in places such as health-food stores and Middle Eastern (including East Indian) stores. In the Ingredients Description and Cross-Reference Index section, you can find a list of these ingredients, some descriptions of them, and ideas for places to find them. I NGREDIENT D ESCRIPTIONS M ost ingredients used in the recipes of this book are common and available in ordinary supermarkets, however, a few can be found only in places such as health-food stores and Middle Eastern (including East Indian) stores. Below is a list of these ingredients, some descriptions of them, and where to find them. The name in parentheses following the English name is the Arabic pronunciation. Bulgur (Birghil): Also known as cracked wheat. Bulgur comes in three sizes: Course, medium, and fine. The fine variety is used in this book as the ingredient for recipes such as Tabuli and Kibba. Bulgur is sold in bulk at health-food stores and specialty Middle Eastern stores. The large-size grain variety of bulgur is sold in boxes in the grains or cereal isles of some supermarkets. Cardamom (Hale): This spice is a common ingredient in recipes from the Middle East and Eastern Europe. Whole cardamom seeds are available in Middle Eastern stores. Due to an increase in its popularity, ground cardamom is now available in the spice section of some supermarkets. Curry (Karry): This spice is a ground mixture of many different spices. Therefore, different brands will taste different. A few years ago I discovered curry paste at the local Middle Eastern Store and I highly recommend the paste variety over the powder. Curry is now available in most supermarkets and it is also available in specialty and Middle Eastern stores. However, the variety you find in the Middle Eastern stores may be spicier and stronger tasting than the supermarket variety. Fava Beans (Bajilla): This bean variety can be found in health-food and Middle Eastern stores in a dehydrated or canned form. Fresh fava beans can sometimes be found in supermarkets during the spring season. Filo Pastry: These thin sheets of dough are mostly used to make the famous dessert Baklava. They are available in boxes in most supermarkets or Middle Eastern stores. Middle Eastern Spice (Boharat): This popular spice is made from blending and grinding several common spices. It is not available in stores, however, the recipe to blend this spice is included under the recipe Middle Eastern Spice in this book. Oman Lemon (Noomy Basrah): A variety of the lime family, this plant is unique to the Middle East region. It looks like a small, brown, dehydrated lime and has a strong, tangy aroma. It can be found in Middle Eastern stores under a variety of names, such as Basrah lemon or Oman lemon. Sometimes you find them in plastic bags without a label! Pita Bread: This variety of bread has become very popular in the US. Middle Eastern people eat them with meals as well as using them for sandwiches. They are available in supermarkets, health-food stores, and Middle Eastern stores. Ras El Hanout: This popular Moroccan spice is made by blending and grinding several common spices. It is not available in stores, however, the recipe to blend this spice is included under the recipe Ras El Hanout Spice in this book. Rose Water (My Warid): This is aromatic water that contains the extract of certain species of roses. It is available in Middle Eastern stores in small bottles. Saffron (Zaafaran): Saffron is the deep-orange, aromatic, dried stigmas of a purple-flowered crocus. It is used to color and flavor foods such as rice. Saffron is very expensive and is therefore sold in small quantities. It can be found in most health-food and Middle Eastern stores and in some supermarkets. Tahini (Rashi): This tan-colored substance, made from sesame seeds, is thick in consistency. The seeds are first toasted and then ground. Because no emulsifiers are used, the Tahini will separate with time. This is normal so just stir before using. Its most popular use is in the Himmus Bitahini and Baba Ghanouge dishes. It can be found in health-food stores, Middle Eastern stores, and some supermarkets. Tamarind (Tamir Hind): This tangy tropical fruit is available in fruit packs or paste. The paste is easier to use because most of the fruit skins have been removed, and therefore it dissolves easily in water. Tamarind is available in health-food stores and Middle Eastern stores. I NGREDIENT C ROSS -R EFERENCE I NDEX This is an alphabetized cross-reference index between the Arabic names of some ingredients and their English names as they appear in this book. Arabic Name Bajilla Birghil Boharat Darseen Filfil ahmar Filfil hiloo Habbat hilwa Habbat soda Hale Himmus Jose boa Kammoon Karry Kizbarah Kurkum Maadanose My warid Naanaa Noomy basrah Rashi Simmak Tamir hind Zaafaran Zaatar English Name Fava beans Bulgur Middle Eastern Spice Cinnamon Cayenne pepper Paprika Aniseed Black caraway Cardamom Garbanzo beans Nutmeg Cumin Curry Coriander Turmeric Parsley Rose water Mint Oman lemon Tahini Sumac Tamarind Saffron Thyme English Name Aniseed Black caraway Bulgur Cardamom Cayenne pepper Cinnamon Coriander Cumin Curry Fava beans Garbanzo beans Middle Eastern Spice Mint Nutmeg Oman lemon Paprika Parsley Rose water Saffron Sumac Tahini Tamarind Thyme Turmeric Arabic Name Habbat hilwa Habbat soda Birghil Hale Filfil ahmar Darseen Kizbarah Kammoon Karry Bajilla Himmus Boharat Naanaa Jose Boa Noomy basrah Filfil hiloo Maadanose My warid Zaafaran Simmak Rashi Tamir hind Zaatar Kurkum
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