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Module 7: Masks and Scrubs
In this module we’re going to look at how to make a variety of different face masks and face scrubs. Some of these will be ‘fresh’ i.e. you make them to use immediately. Others will have a longer shelf life and can be made in batches to be stored.
We’ll look at exfolia@ng ingredients for facial skincare such as jojoba beads, bamboo powder, ground rice and ground almonds.
We’ll also learn how to make two different types of face masks -­‐ clay masks and gel masks.
There are many types of cosme@c clays which make superb face masks. These are great at cleansing and detoxifying the skin. Gel masks are a wonderful alterna@ve, they are more of a facial treat than a cleansing or detoxifying treatment. They are great for people with dry, sensi@ve or mature skin or for people who don’t enjoy the @ghtening sensa@on of clay masks when they set.
How to use: Face masks are applied to the skin and then leH on for 10 -­‐ 15 minutes to work their magic before being rinsed off. You can follow with a toner and moisturiser if you wish. They are generally used as treatments once or twice a week.
Ingredients
Clays
Green Clay: Cleansing, detoxifying, toning and draws out impuri@es. Green clay is suitable for normal, neglected, oily skin and acne.
Rhassoul Clay: Light brown clay with wonderful exfolia@ng, cleansing and detoxifying proper@es. It draws out excess oils and impuri@es from deep within the skin. Rhassoul is also highly nourishing for the skin thanks to its high mineral content and has an@-­‐ inflammatory and an@sep@c quali@es.
©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
White Cosme9c Clay (Kaolin Clay): One of the most commonly available and versa@le cosme@c clays it has a high mineral content, gentle nature and absorbent proper@es. Ideal for sensi@ve, dry and mature skin types.
Fullers Earth: Deeply cleansing it's used in masks to help absorb oils and prevent acne. Mix in equal amounts with Kaolin Clay or clay of your choice.
Pink Clay: A mild clay, rich in minerals. Great for gently cleansing and detoxifying sensi@ve skin.
Raw Cocoa Powder: The highest known source of an@oxidants. An@oxidants are wonderful for your skin because they absorb free radicals, which cause cell and @ssue damage as well as lead to premature aging. Raw chocolate powder can be added to clay face masks for a wonderful chocolate aroma.
Exfolia9ng agents
Ground rice -­‐ good in fresh face treatments (doesn’t keep very well). An excellent exfoliator for the face when applied with gentle circular mo@ons. Can be bought inexpensively from most supermarkets.
Ground almonds -­‐ similar to ground rice, good in fresh face treatments (doesn’t keep very well). An excellent exfoliator for the face when applied with gentle circular mo@ons.
Jojoba beads -­‐ these are made from jojoba oil and are smooth grains useful for exfolia@ng. They can be added to creams, lo@ons, gels and face masks to add an exfolia@ng func@on. Bamboo powder -­‐ made from bamboo, this is an exfolia@ng powder which you can add to creams, lo@ons, gels, and face masks for an exfolia@ng ac@on. Deep Cleansing Clay Face Masks
Clays are rich in minerals. They are great for deeply cleansing the skin as the draw out toxins. They also help tone the skin. These face masks can also be used as cleanser if you massage onto the skin in circular mo@ons (avoiding eye area) and then rinse off before they have set.
They are two methods for making clay face masks:
1) Mix the dry clay(s) together and store as a dry product. When you wish to use mix 1-­‐2 teaspoons of clay with 1-­‐2 teaspoons of water, milk or a herbal infusion. The benefits is that the product can be made without the need for preserva@ves and can be mixed up as needed.
2) Mix the clay with water to form a paste and store in a jar. You will need to use a preserva@ve if you decide to make the mask this way and intend to keep it for more than a couple of days. The benefit of this method is that you can add other ingredients such as base oils or aloe vera and that the mask is ready to use.
©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
Clay Mask Recipes
Detoxifying Face Mask (an example of making and storing dry)
For normal, oily and combina/on skin. Rosemary oil is a wonderful an/sep/c oil and green clay deeply detoxifying. Use once a week.
2 tbsp green clay or 1tbsp fullers earth and 1tbsp kaolin
2 drops rosemary essen@al oil
Measure the clay into a bowl. Drop the essen@al oils onto the clay and mix in well. Store the dry mask in a tub or jar un@l needed.
Hot Chocolate Face Mask
A divine smelling cleansing facial treat!
2 tablespoons clay
1 heaped teaspoon raw chocolate powder
1 drop orange or mandarine essen@al oil (op@onal)
Measure the clay and chocolate powder into a bowl. Drop the essen@al oils onto the clay and mix in well. Store the dry mask in a tub or jar un@l needed.
Gentle Cleansing Mask (an example of mixing and storing a paste)
A gentle cleansing treatment for sensi/ve skin
50g rhassoul, kaolin or pink clay (or a mixture)
45ml spring water (or a flower water or herbal infusion such as chamomile)
5ml peach or apricot kernal oil (or oil of your choice)
5 drops geranium essen@al oil
5 drops lavender essen@al oil
20 drops of preserva@ve (or as manufacturers instruc@ons)
1. Pour the water into a bowl, add the preserva@ve.
©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
2. Sprinkle over the clay and leave for a few minutes to allow the clay to absorb the water. 3.When the clay has sunk into the water, s@r the mixture well. Add the essen@al oils and peach kernal oil, mix together well. You may find you need to adjust the consistency of the mask by adding a li`le more clay or water.
4. Spoon into a jar. ©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
Lavender cleansing mask
Gently detoxifying mask with the relaxing fragrance of lavender
50g clay of your choice
45ml spring water
5ml aloe vera
10 drops lavender essen@al oil
20 drops of preserva@ve (or as manufacturers instruc@ons)
Pour the water into a bowl, add the preserva@ve. Sprinkle over the clay and leave for a few minutes to allow the clay to absorb the water. When the clay has sunk into the water, s@r the mixture well. Add the essen@al oils and aloe vera, mix together well. You may find you need to adjust the consistency of the mask by adding a li`le more clay or water. Spoon into a jar. Luxurious Honey Mask
Honey is a wonderful ingredient for face masks. It’s soothing, an/sep/c and moisturising. It’s a humectant which means its draws water to the skin making this mask hydra/ng.
50g clay of your choice
45ml spring water
5ml runny honey
4 drops ylang ylang essen@al oil
6 drops bergamot FCF essen@al oil
20 drops of preserva@ve (or as manufacturers instruc@ons)
Pour the water into a bowl, add the preserva@ve. Sprinkle over the clay and leave for a few minutes to allow the clay to absorb the water. When the clay has sunk into the water, s@r the mixture well. Add the essen@al oils and honey, mix together well. You may find you need to adjust the consistency of the mask by adding a li`le more clay or water. Spoon into a jar.
Deep cleansing Mask
This mask uses the deep cleansing ac/on of fullers earth and the an/bacterial proper/es of orange and rosemary.
40g green clay
10g fullers earth
45ml spring water
5ml runny honey
4 drops rosemary essen@al oil
4 drops orange essen@al oil
20 drops of preserva@ve (or as manufacturers instruc@ons)
©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
Soothing Gel Face Masks
They are soothing facial treatments rather than deeply cleansing and detoxifying treatments. They don’t set firm like the clay mask do. Best applied when you are relaxing in the bath to avoid too much mess! These masks are made in the same way as the gels described in Module 5. The gel base is mixed with other op@onal beneficial ingredients such as essen@al oil, base oils or a small amount of clay.
Gel Mask Recipes
Luxurious Rose Gel Mask
Especially for rose lovers! The combina@on of rose flower water, rosehip oil and geranium oil makes a rejuvena@ng facial treat with a wonderful aroma.
95 ml rose flower water
1g xanthan gum (I used 2 x a ‘pinch’ measuring spoon)
5ml / 1 tsp rosehip oil
10 drops Geranium essen@al oil
20 drops preserva@ve (or as manufacturers instruc@ons)
Step 1: Warm the rose water by standing it a jug of freshly boiled water. Add the xanthan gum and using a small hand held blender (also known as a milk frother) mix well. Try to avoid the mixture gegng too frothy but you do want to blend in any lumps of xanthan gum.
Step 2: Allow the gel to cool, add the rosehip oil, essen@al oils and preserva@ve and mix well. Pour into a jar or bo`le. ©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
Soothing Calendula, Aloe & Lavender Mask
Great for soothing sensi/ve skin or sunburn
90 ml calendula infusion
1g xanthan gum (I used 2 x a ‘pinch’ measuring spoon)
10ml/ 2 tsp aloe vera
10 drops Lavender essen@al oil
20 drops preserva@ve (or as manufacturers instruc@ons)
Follow the steps described above.
Acne soother Great for soothing skin affected by acne. Calendula is an/bacterial and an/-­‐inflammatory and contains amazing skin healing proper/es. Jojoba oil balances sebum and Lavender is an all round amazing healing and soothing oil.
90 ml calendula infusion
1g xanthan gum (I used 2 x a ‘pinch’ measuring spoon)
5ml / 1 tsp jojoba oil
10 drops Lavender essen@al oil
20 drops preserva@ve (or as manufacturers instruc@ons)
Facial Scrubs & Exfoliators
There are several ways to make face scrubs:
1) Exfolia@ng clay scrubs -­‐ these are made in the same way as the clay masks described above with the addi@on of a exfolia@ng agent such as jojoba beads or bamboo powder.
2) Exfolia@ng Lo@ons -­‐ these are made in the same way as a cream or lo@on with the addi@on of a exfolia@ng agent such as jojoba beads or bamboo powder.
Clay scrubs
Add 1 tsp of either bamboo powder or jojoba beads to any of the clay face mask recipes above. If using the dry method you could also use ground rice or ground almond.
To use: Smooth onto the face, avoiding the delicate eye area, rubbing gently in circular mo@ons and then remove with a muslin cloth or damp co`on wool pads.
Exfolia9ng Lo9on
For this I am borrowing Deep Cleansing Lo/on recipe we used in the Module 6: Creams and Lo/ons. To make this into an exfolia/ng treatment an exfolia/ng agent such as jojoba beads are added once the lo/on is cool. The use of rosemary and tea tree makes this an an/bacterial, deep cleansing treatment.
©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
Oil phase
10ml castor oil
12ml apricot kernal or sunflower oil
5g emulsifying wax
Water Phase
65ml tea tree or rosemary hydrolat (or spring water)
2.5ml (1/2 tsp) glycerine
Cooling phase
5ml aloe vera 0.5ml Vitamin E
10 drops lavender essen@al oil
5 drops rosemary essen@al oil
3g / 1 tsp exfolia@ng ingredient (jojoba beads, bamboo powder)
To make: Please follow the instruc@ons found in Module 6: Creams and Lo@ons. Store in a pump dispenser for easy use.
To use: Smooth onto the face, avoiding the delicate eye area, rubbing gently in circular mo@ons and then remove with a muslin cloth or damp co`on wool pads.
Gentle Exfolia9ng Lo9on
Similar to the recipe above but using lavender and mandarin essen/al oils. These are gently an/sep/c and an/bacterial. I like using this combina/on in the evening as its also a relaxing, calming blend.
Oil phase
7ml castor oil
15ml apricot kernal or sunflower oil
5g emulsifying wax
Water Phase
70ml boiled spring water
2.5ml glycerine
Cooling phase
0.5ml Vitamin E
20 drops of preserva@ve
5 drops lavender (op@onal)
5 drops mandarin (op@onal)
3g/ 1tsp exfolia@ng ingredient (jojoba beads, bamboo powder)
To make: Please follow the instruc@ons found in Module 6: Creams and Lo@ons. Store in a pump dispenser for easy use.
To use: Smooth onto the face, avoiding the delicate eye area, rubbing gently in circular mo@ons and then remove with a muslin cloth or damp co`on wool pads.
©Gail Francombe 2013 www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com