Chapter 8: Woven Fabrics and Their
Properties
y Dates back 9,000 years ago in the Middle
East
y Most common method of forming fabric
y Fabric is also called:
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Cloth
Material
Piece goods
Goods
Components of Woven Constructions
Warp
y Weft (filling)
y Bias
y Face
y Back
y Selvage
y Grain
y
Properties of Fabric
y
Warp
◦ Set of yarns that run lenghtwise on a piece of woven
fabric
◦ Parallel to selvedge (ends)
y
Fill (weft)
◦ yarns that run horizontally across the width of a piece
of woven fabric
◦ Perpendicular to the warp yarns
y
Bias
◦ A line or cut across a fabric that is not at right angles
to the side of a fabric
Fabric Face and Back, Top and Bottom
y
y
y
Face – front side of fabric
Back – back side of fabric
Top (up position)
◦ Some fabrics are noticeably different when viewed
from the top and bottom
◦ Corduroy, velvet, velveteen, fleece
y
Bottom (down position)
Characteristics of Fabric Face
y
FABRIC FACE:
◦ Usually smoother and more lustrous
◦ If printed, the print is usually clearer and brighter
◦ When aesthetics finishes are applied, the finish is
more pronounced on the face
◦ In stain and twill weaves, the floats of the weave are
on the face
◦ In fancy weaves, the desing may be clear on the front
but not the back
Characteristics of Fabric Back
y
FABRIC BACK:
◦ Knots and imperfections are usually on the back
◦ If printed, the print is less distinct and duller
◦ Tentering marks are usually more noticeable on the
back.
(tentering is used to straighten the grain of the fabric)
Characteristics of Warp
y
Warp:
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Run parallel to selveges
Usually thinner yarn
Stronger
Have more twist
Greater in numbers
Straighter and more parallel
If filament and staple yarns used in fabric, the warp is
usually the filament yarn.
Characteristics of Weft / Fill
y
Weft / Fill:
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90 degrees / perpendicular to the selvege
Bulkier
Weaker
Less twist
Unbalanced
If filament and staple yarns used in fabric, staple is
usually used in the weft / fill.
Thread Count and Balanced Fabric
y
Thread Count
◦ # of yarns in 1 square inch
◦ Used to determine quality
◦ Higher yarns per inch = higher quality fabric
y
Balanced Fabric
◦ Has the same # of yarns in the warp / filling (weft)
◦ Tends to be more durable
◦ Sheeting is an example of a balanced weave
Characteristics of Woven Fabrics
y
Grain
◦ Refers to the relationship between the warp +
fill/weft.
◦ Perfect perpendicular = on grain / grain perfect
Selvage – we will get to in few slides
y Very little stretch
y
◦ Major difference between woven and knitted
fabrics
Parts of a loom
Warp beam
y Harness
y Heddles
y Shed
y Shuttle
y Reed/dents
y Beating
y Cloth roll
y
Parts of a loom
y
Warp beam
◦ Cylinder where warp yarns are wound
y
y
y
Harness
◦ Holds heddles in place – usually more than one
Heddles
◦ Wire or cord with eyelets that hold warp yarns
in place
Shed
◦ Where the filling yarn is inserted
Parts of a loom
y
Shuttle
◦ Holds the filling yarn
◦ This is thrown thru the shed
y
Reed/dents
◦ Comblike device that pushes filling yarns into place
y
Beating
◦ To beat the filling yarn with the reed into the
completed cloth
y
Cloth roll
◦ Cloth that has been woven rolls up into a cylinder
Conventional Shuttle Looms Vs. Shuttleless
Looms
y
Two main types of looms:
◦ Shuttle looms
x Noisy, only insert about 200 picks per minute
◦ Shuttless looms
x Quieter and much faster
◦ 4 kinds of shuttleless looms:
x
x
x
x
Air-jet looms*
Projectile looms
Rapier looms*
Water-jet looms
4 Kinds of Shuttleless Looms (pg 124-125)
y
Air-jet loom
◦ A jet of air propels the filling yarn across the shed
y
Projectile loom
◦ A gripper carries the filling yarn across the shed
y
Rapier loom
◦ A rapier (rod or tape) carries the filling yarn across
the shed
y
Water-jet loom
◦ A high-pressure jet of water carries the filling yarn
across the shed
Selvages + Other Looms (pg 125)
y
Circular loom
Double-width loom
Multiphase loom
Triaxial loom
y
Selvages
y
y
y
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Runs parallel to the warp yarns
Forms the lengthwise edges of the woven fabric
In shuttleless looms – fringes on both sides
See figure 8.5 pg 125
Variables in Woven Construction
y
A great deal of variety may be created by
manipulating the following:
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Fiber content
Yarn type and twist
Fabric count
Coloration
Finishes
Basic Weaves
y
Plain or tabby
◦ Simplest
◦ Most commonly used
◦ weft goes over one warp and then under one warp.
Characteristics of Plain Weave
Smooth surface
y Wears well
y Ravels less
y Wrinkles more
y Less absorbent
y
Plain Weave Structure
Common Plain Weave Fabrics
Swatches #45 - #57
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
Batiste
Calico
Challis
Chambray
Chintz
Cretonne
Duck
Gingham
Muslin
Organdy
Organza
Percale
Print Cloth
Voile
Plain Weave Variations
y
Ribbed
◦ Unbalanced weave
◦ Noticeable lines on surface
y
Basket
◦ Two or more filling yarns interlaced with two
or more warp yarns
y
Seersucker
◦ Slack-tension weaving
More info on each on following slides
Ribbed Weave Characteristics
Special effect created either in the warp
or the weft
y Rib may be very pronounced or not very
y Unbalanced weave
y Wears more quickly
y More likely to exhibit yarn slippage
y
Rib Fabrics
Swatches #58 - #63
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
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y
Bengaline – rib very pronounced
Bedford cord
Broadcloth – rib not very noticeable
Dimity - rib easily visible
Grossgrain - rib very pronounced
Faille – rib easily visible
Ottoman – rib very pronounced
Poplin – sister to broadcloth
Rep
Shantung
Taffeta - rib not very noticeable
Dimity
25
Grosgrain ribbon
26
Ottoman upholstery
27
Basket Weave Structure
2x2 basket weave
29
Basket Weave Construction
Loosely woven
y Identified by the number of yarns that are
interlaced
y
◦ 2 x 2 basket weave
◦ 4 x 4 basket weave
◦ 3 x 2 basket weave
y
Variation is the half basket weave
◦ 2 x 1 half basket weave
Basket Weave Characteristics
y
Appearance
◦ Reversible unless the finish or print makes one side the face
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
Fray easily
Snag
Stretch
Due to loose construction, more flexible
Wears more quickly
Yarn slippage
Tendency to shrink when washed
Difficult to sew
Basket Weave Fabric
Swatches #64 - 67
Sailcloth
y Canvas
y Duck
y Hopsacking
y Monk’s cloth
y Oxford cloth
y
◦ 2 x 1 half basket
Monk's cloth
33
Twill Weaves
y
Twill
◦ Creates diagonal lines on surface of fabric
◦ Wales – lines created by weave
◦ Float – a yarn that crosses over more than
one yarn at a time
y
Fabric Appearance
◦ Reclining diagonal line
◦ Regular diagonal line
◦ Steep diagonal line
Twill Weave Appearance continued
Right hand twill
y Left hand twill
y Broken twill
y Even or regular twill
y Uneven twill
y Warp face
y Weft face
y
Uneven Twill Drafts
Twill Weave Structure
Twill Characteristics
y
Yarns are compacted close together
◦ Strong, durable construction
Hides soil lodged between diagonal lines
y Reversible
y
◦ Except that twill line changes direction
Common Twill Fabrics
Swatches #68 - #72
y
y
y
y
y
y
y
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Chino
Denim
Drill
Foulard or surah
Gabardine
Herringbone twill
Houndstooth check
Jean
Serge
Houndstooth worsted wool
42
Herringbone woolen
43
Satin Weave
y
Refers both to fabric name and weave
structures
y
Satin
◦ Weft or fill travels over four or more warp
yarns
y
Fabric Appearance
◦ Satin – warp faced
◦ Sateen – weft faced
Fabric Characteristics
Yarn floats
y Parallel floats so no diagonal line
y As few interlacings as possible
y Lustrous fabric
y
Satin Weave Drafts
Satin weave, 4/1–face
47
Common Fabric Names
Swatches #73 - #76
Satin
y Sateen
y Crepe back satin
y
Special Weaves
y
Dobby Weave
◦ Small, repeated geometric patterns
y
Leno Weave
◦ Pairs of warp yarn twisted around filling yarns
y
Jacquard Weave
◦ Intricately patterned
More info on each in the upcoming slides
Dobby Weaves
y
Dobby attachment added to 16-harness
(or more) looms
◦ Dobby loom
y
Patterns may have long floats, if so:
◦ Snagging
◦ Poor abrasion resistance
Dobby Weave Fabrics
Swatches #77 - #81
y
Birds-eye
◦ long floats create a small diamond pattern with a dot
in the center
◦ Also called diaper cloth
y
Huck
◦ Pebbly surface; used for toweling
y
Pique
◦ Surface pattern; Waffle effect or cord effect
y
Shirting madras
◦ Small geometric design in a striped pattern
y
Waffle weave
◦ Dobby-weave fabric with honeycomb effect
Madras
Leno Weaves
Swatches #90 - #91
Pairs of warp yarns are twisted around
filling yarns
y Doup (leno) harness added to a dobby
loom
y Adds stability to open weave fabrics
y Usually used in conjunction with other
weaves to improve appearance of fabric
y
Leno Weave Structure
Leno weave marquisette
55
Jacquard Weaves
y
y
y
y
y
Invented in 1801 by Joseph-Marie Jacquard
Originally used punch cards to control each
individual thread
Individual thread control means ability to weave
pictures
Today, most jacquard looms are air-jet looms
Fabrics may have long floats, subject to:
◦ Snagging
◦ Abrasion
◦ May be less durable
Jacquard Weave Fabrics
Swatches #84 - #87
y
Brocade
◦ Evening wear, draperies and upholstery
y
Brocatelle
◦ Draperies and upholstery
y
Damask
◦ Table linens, furnishings and apparel
y
Tapestry
◦ Upholstery, handbags and wall hangings
y
Wilton Rugs
◦ Cut pile rugs
Tapestry
58
Extra Yarn Weaves
Extra warp or filling yarns create designs
resembling embroidery
y Three methods of incorporating extra
yarns into cloth
y
◦ Spot weaving
◦ Swivel weaving
◦ Lappet weaving
Spot Weaving
Swatches #82 & #83
y
Extra filling yarns
◦ Design on fabric face
◦ Long floats on fabric back
y
Sometimes the floats on the back of the
fabric are trimmed and used as the front
Clipped spot–face
61
Swivel Weaving
More durable than spot weaves
y Special attachments holds tiny shuttles
with filling yarns
y Design yarns wrapped around warp yarns
several times
y
Lappet Weaving
Extra warp yarns used to create a zigzag
design
y Seldom seen in US except as imported
Swiss braids
y
Woven-Pile Weaves
Swatches #92 - #95
y
Created with three sets of yarns
◦ Warp ground yarns
◦ Filling ground yarns
◦ Pile yarns
x Either extra filling or extra warp yarns
y
Two fabrics types possible
◦ Cut-pile fabrics
◦ Uncut-pile fabrics
Characteristics of Woven-Pile Fabrics
y
Durability dependent on:
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y
Fiber used in the ground fabric
Interlacing of the pile
Density of the pile
Height of the pile
Direction of pile important
◦ Pile of each piece must face the same
direction
Four Methods for Creating Pile Weaves
y
Wire Method: velvet, frise (frieze)
y
Filling-Pile Method: corduroy, velveteen
y
Double-cloth Method: velvet, velour, plush,
panne velvet, crushed velvet
y
Slack-tension or Terry Weave Method:
terry cloth
Interwoven Fabrics
y
Woven from three or more sets of yarn
◦ Double cloth
◦ Double weave
◦ Double faced
Double Cloth, Double Weaves and Double
Faced
y
Double Cloth – swatch #88
◦ Melton
◦ Kersey
y
Double Weaves (pocket cloth)
◦ Matelasse
y
Double Faced
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Appear the same on both sides
Some blankets
Double-faced satin
Double-faced coat interlinings
True double cloth–
layers separated
69
Momie Weaves
y
y
y
Appearance of small dots
Dobby loom construction
May be a satin weave variation
◦ Bark cloth
x Interior use
◦ Granite cloth – swatch #79
x Apparel and interior
◦ Moss crepe
x apparel
◦ Sand crepe