ISSUE 15 November 2012 Befrienders Highland

ISSUE 15 November 2012
Newsletter of the Needlework Group of Distance Befriending
Befrienders Highland
19 Church Street, Inverness IV1 1DY
Christmas is nearly upon us –the tinsel is in the shops
and the decorations are going up! The sense of panic
buying hasn’t quite reached its peak but no doubt it will
come! Hopefully we can all avoid the silliness and enjoy
the festive season without pressure. There is still time
to hand craft a few things if you want, and to help you
along we have a few ‘easy’ Christmas makes in this
issue plus a few ideas for longer term projects.
Janet has included instructions for a lovely fabric
Christmas tree and for a Christmas tree wall hanging.
And for the knitters there is a Santa tea cosy and
Christmas stockings to get the needles clicking.
Whichever you choose to do—don’t forget to take a few
pictures and send them in for the next issue.
So whatever we all get up to this Christmas
remember to enjoy and have a peaceful and
happy time in stitches.
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Table of Contents
1.
Christmas Edition Editorial
2.
Table of Contents
3.
Tips for Sewing Buttons on Handknits
4.
Fabric Christmas Tree (to sew)
5.
Fabric Christmas Tree (to sew)
6.
Template for Fabric Christmas Tree
7.
Quick Christmas Tree Wall Hanging
8.
Easy-Peasy Santa Tea Cosy (to knit)
9.
Easy-Peasy Santa Tea Cosy (to knit)
10. Candy Cane Stocking (to knit)
11. Candy Cane Stocking (to knit)
12. Rainbow Rug (to knit)
13. Rainbow Rug (to knit)
14. Janet Reports from the Kent Quilt Show
15. Janet Reports from the Kent Quilt Show
16. Over to You...
17. Over to You...
18. Basic Crocheted Sock
19. Basic Crocheted Sock
20. Christmas Greetings and Cheer
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CHRISTMAS TREE
This Fabric Christmas Tree pattern was given to me by my first patchwork teacher
and can be used either as an ornament or as a hanging if you attach a cord to the
top.
You’ll find it easier if you start by stuffing the
top of all 6 sections at the same time,
gradually working your way down to fill each
section to the bottom (and not as I did, trying
to completely stuff one section at a time!).
If you want it to sit flat then you’ll have to be
sure not to overfill bottom sections.
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CHRISTMAS TREE INSTRUCTIONS
Materials:
2 pieces contrasting Christmas fabric (minimum 8” x 22”), Filling,
Card for template or freezer paper. (Template overleaf)
1
Draw round template 3 times on back of each fabric, adding a ¼” seam when
cutting out. Stitch together in pairs (one piece of each fabric) on pencil line,
leaving an opening of about 2” at the bottom for turning. Trim seam to 1/8”.
Turn right side out, press.
2
Place the three trees in a pile one on top of the other with the same fabrics
facing each other and sew a straight line from the top to the base.
3
Stuff firmly, stitch the opening closed. Trim with beads etc if desired.
If using freezer paper instead of template, proceed as follows
1
Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together and iron on the freezer
paper template. Stitch around close to the edge of the freezer paper, leaving an
opening of approx. 2” at bottom for turning
2
Peel the freezer paper away and if short of fabric now place it about ½” away
from the sewn tree but the other way round – i.e. the top where the base of the
first tree is and the base where the top is. Sew round as before, then move the
freezer paper template again and sew a third tree.
3
Now cut out carefully about 1/8” away from the stitched line of all the trees.
Turn right side out and press.
4
Continue as 2 and 3 in template method.
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The Quick Christmas Tree Wallhanging
This is something I’ve just made as a result of my
visit to Kent Quilt Show. I used the Suffolk puff (yoyos) at the top because I saw something similar on one
of the traders’ stalls. I’m sure you’ll remember I used them in a couple of projects last Christmas.
The snippets of fabric on the bottom tree are a quick and
fun way to use up scraps. (I think they look more like a
real Christmas tree where the branches seem to go in all
directions).
This would look good developed as a large single tree
wallhanging so I may experiment in my spare time!!!
Have some fun experimenting!
from Janet
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Easy Peasy SANTA TEA COSY
This delightful Santa tea cosy knitting pattern is
just what’s needed to keep the teapot warm this
winter. Santa is a jolly fellow and he will cheer
up any Christmas Tea time. From Sally
To make the Santa Claus tea cosy you will need...
5.5 mm, UK size 5 or US size 9 knitting needles,
4.00 mm, UK size 8 or US size 6 Knitting needles,
50g Red Double knitting wool,
25g white double knitting wool,
25g black double knitting wool,
25g Yellow double knitting wool,
25g Peach double knitting wool,
1 balls of Patons Whisper or Lana Grossa knitting wool
white, (for hair and beard)
1 white pom-pom and Stuffing.
Divide the Red ball of wool into two balls so that the yarn can be used as double thickness but knitted up as a single strand.
The Back
Using size 5.5mm knitting needles and double thickness white yarn cast on 28 stitches and work 4
rows in straight garter stitch (Knit each row)
Change to Red wool & work 22 rows of Stocking Stitch (one row knit, one row purl) **
Leave the stitches on a spare needle until later. The Front Work as given for the back to **
Shaping the top...Using Red wool as a double yarn proceed to knit across the tea cosy front and
then tea cosy back as Follows...
Shaping the top Row 1: *K5, K2 tog* repeat to end
Next and every alternate row Purl.
Row 3: *K4, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Row 5: *K3, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Row 7: *K2, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Row 9: *K1, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Row 11: *K2 tog* repeat to end.
Thread the end of the yarn through the remaining stitches and through the loop of the yarn itself
and draw up the knitting tightly and Finish off.
With the front and back right sides together, sew about 9.5cm from the finishing off point down the
side seam towards the cast on edge.
At the bottom of each side seam, sew about 3cm upwards. The holes are left for the teapot handle
and spout.
Santa's Head
Using size 4.00mm needles and peach wool cast on 8 stitches.
Row 1: Inc in every stitch
Next and every alternate row Purl
Row 3: *K1, inc in next stitch* to end
Row 5: *K2, inc in next stitch* to end
Row 7: *K3, inc in next stitch* to end
Row 9: *K4, inc in next stitch* to end
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: K18 in hair wool, K12 peach, K18 hair wool
Row 12: K18 hair, P12 peach, K18 hair
Row 13: P18 hair, K12 peach, P18 hair
Row 14: K18 hair, P12 peach, K18 hair
Repeat the last two rows 4 more times.
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Decrease Head
Row 1: *K4, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Next and every alternate row Purl.
Row 3: *K3, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Row 5: *K2, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Row 7: *K1, K2 tog* repeat to end.
Row 9: *K2 tog* repeat to end.
Thread the end of the yarn through the remaining stitches and through the loop of the yarn itself
and draw up the knitting tightly and Finish off. With right sides facing sew row ends together, turn,
stuff and sew the head to the body with the head seam at the back.
Santa's nose
With single thread and size 4.00mm needles cast on 10 stitches and sticking stitch 4 rows.
Next row: K2 tog to end Thread the end of the yarn through the remaining stitches and through
the loop of the yarn itself and draw up the knitting tightly and Finish off. Sew row ends together,
lightly stuff and sew into position on Santa's face.
Santa's Beard
Using size 4.00mm needles and Hair wool cast on 15 stitches and
work 8 rows in stocking stitch.
Row 9: K2 tog, K11, K2 tog
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: K2 tog, K9, K2 tog
Row 12: P2 tog, P7, P2 tog
Row 13: K2 tog, K5, K2 tog
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: K2 tog, K3, K2 tog
Row 16: K2 tog, K1, K2 tog
Row 17: Purl
Row 18: K1, K2 tog
Row 19: K2 tog Finish off Sew beard into place on Santa's face beneath his nose.
Embroider on eyes and using hair wool, sew on some eyebrows.
Santa's Hat
Using size 4.00mm needles and white wool cast on 58 stitches and work 4 rows in garter stitch.
Change to single strand red wool and continue...
Knit 4 rows in stocking stitch
Next row: *K2 tog, K6* to last two stitches, K2 Work 3 rows
Next row: *K2 tog, K5* to last stitch, K1 Work 3 rows
Next row: *K2 tog, K4* to last stitch, K1 Work 3 rows
Next row: *K2 tog, K3* to last stitch, K1 Work 3 rows
Next row: *K2 tog, K2* to last stitch, K1 Work 3 rows
Next row: *K2 tog, K1* to last stitch, K1 Work 3 rows
Next row: *K2 tog* to last stitch, K1
Work 3 rows
Next row: *K2 tog* to end
Thread the end of the yarn through the remaining stitches and through
the loop of the yarn itself and draw up the knitting tightly and Finish off. Sew row ends together and
sew a pom-pom to the hat tip.
Coat Fronts
With Size 4.00mm needles and white knitting wool cast on 42 stitches and work 4 rows garter stitch,
cast off. Stitch up the centre front of Santa's tummy.
Belt
With Size 5.5mm needles and double black knitting wool cast on 30 stitches, knit one row and cast
off. Make two belts. Stitch one across the centre back of the tea cosy.
Buckle
With size 4.00mm needles and double Yellow wool cast on 5 stitches and knit 2 rows.
Next Row: K2, bring yarn forward and over needle K2 tog, K1
Work 2 more rows Garter stitch and cast off.
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Knitted Candy Cane Stockings
These Christmas striped stockings are quick and easy to knit and since
they are stretchy, they can hold more presents and goodies from Santa than a mere sock! Make a few in different sizes and colours for all
of the children in the family from 1 to 99 years old!!
ABBREVIATIONS
beg – beginning; dec – decrease; inc – increase; K – knit;
K2tog – knit two stitches together; pm – place marker; rem –
remaining; rep – repeat; st(s) – stitch(es); tog – together;
YO – yarn over
SIZE
Small: Approximately 3 ½ in (9 cm) wide (across top) x 7 in (18 cm) long (from
top edge to base of heel)
Large: Approximately 5 in (12.5 cm) wide (across top) x 10 in (25 cm) long
(from top edge to base of heel)
MATERIALS
#4 Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Patons Canadiana Yarn, 100% Acrylic):
Main Colour (MC) - Small: 1 oz/28 gr, Large: 2 oz/56 gr
Contrast Colour (CC) – Small: 1 oz/28 gr, Large: 2 oz/56 gr
Knitting Needles, size 10 (5.75 mm)
Yarn Needle
3 – Stitch Holders
4 – Stitch Markers
GAUGE
In Garter St (knit each row), 11 sts = 3 in / 7.5 cm; 8 rows = 1 in / 2.5 cm
DIRECTIONS
Directions are given for a size Small. Changes for size Large are in parentheses ( ).
TOP
Note: Top section is worked on the bias
With MC, cast on one st.
Row 1: (right side): Knit in front and back of st (inc made) (2 sts).
Row 2: Inc in first st, K1 (3 sts).
Row 3: Inc in first st, knit rem sts (4 sts). Drop MC (do not cut – colour is carried up side of work);
join CC.
Rows 4 & 5: With CC, rep Row 3 twice (6 sts). Twist colours at edge of work by bringing dropped
colour to front of work and then up and over colour being used, and drop colour at back of work (colour
twisted). NOTE: Twist colours in this manner on each stripe between 2nd and 3rd rows.
Rows 6 & 7: Continuing with CC, rep Row 3 twice (8 sts); 2 stripes now completed. Change to MC
(drop CC and pick up MC behind colour just used). Alternating colours every four rows, rep Row 3 until
there are 28 (52) stitches and a total of 4 (7) MC and 3 (6) CC stripes. Change to CC.
Next Row: With CC, K2tog (dec made), knit rem sts – 27 (51) sts.
Next Row: Inc in first st, knit rem sts – 28 (52) sts.
Rep previous two rows one time. Change to MC.
Changing colour every four rows, rep these four rows until a total of 10 (16) stripes. Change to MC.
Next Row: K2tog (dec made), knit rem sts – 27 (51) sts.
Alternating colours every four rows rep this row until on st remains. You should have a total of 17 (29)
stripes. Last stripe will have 3 rows instead of 4 rows. Top section is now complete. Cut CC; continue
with MC.
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Next Row: K2tog (dec made), knit rem sts – 27 (51) sts.
Alternating colours every four rows rep this row until on st remains. You should have a total of 17
(29) stripes. Last stripe will have 3 rows instead of 4 rows. Top section is now complete. Cut CC;
continue with MC.
BEGIN FOOT PORTION AND HOLES FOR CORD
With wrong side facing, use needle with one st on it and pick up 21 (37) sts along long edge
(approximately every other row) for a total of 22 (38) sts.
Cord Row: K2tog, * YO, K2tog; rep from * across – 21 (37) sts (each YO counts as one st).
Next Row: Inc in first st, * K3, inc in next st; rep from * across – 27 (47) sts. Cut MC; join CC and
work instep as follows.
INSTEP
Row 1: With CC, K18 (31). Place remaining 9 (16) sts on stitch holder.
Row 2: K9 (15). Place remaining 9 (16) sts on a stitch holder.
Rows 3 & 4: Knit across 9 (15) center sts. At the end of Row 4, drop CC; join MC. Alternating
colours every 4 rows, knit even on center 9 (15) sts for 20 (28) more rows. At the end of Row 24
(32), you should have 6 (8) stripes. Cut both colours and place center stitches on stitch holder.
FOOT
Row 1: With right side of work facing, move 9 (16) sts in CC from stitch holder to right needle. Join
CC and pick up 11 (15) sts along right edge of instep, place 9 (15) center stitches onto left needle
and knit, pick up 11 (15) sts along left edge of instep, place last 9 (16) sts on left needle and then
knit. – 49 (77) sts.
NOTE: Stitches may be tight on needle, but will loosen up as subsequent rows are worked.
Rows 2 through 4: Knit. Drop CC at end of Row 4; join MC.
Rows 5 through 12: Knit 4 rows with MC; change to CC and knit 4 more rows. At end of Row 12,
you will have 3 stripes – 2 CC and 1 MC. Cut CC; continue with MC for heel and toe shaping.
HEEL AND TOE SHAPING
Row 1: K4 (7), K 2tog, pm; K12 (20), pm, K2tog, K9 (15), pm; K12 (20), pm, K2tog, K4 (7) – 45
(73) sts. On the following rows, slip markers from right to left needle as they present themselves.
Next Row: K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog; K to next marker, K2tog; K to 2 sts before next marker,
K2tog; K to next marker, K2tog; K to end of row – 41 (69) sts. Rep this row until 33 (49) sts remain.
Next Row: K2tog, K12 (20); K2tog; K1, K2tog; K12 (20), K2tog) – 29 (45) sts.
Bind off all sts in knit. Finish off, leaving approximately 24" sewing length. Sew sole and back seam.
Weave in all ends.
LOOP
CO 16 sts. BO all sts leaving approximately 8" tail. Sew ends together to form loop. Sew loop to back
of stocking. Weave in ends.
Cord (Approximately 20 in / 50cm (32 in / 80cm when stretched gently)
CO 90 (130) sts. BO all sts. Weave in ends. Beg at centre front and weave cord through holes and
then tie in bow.
A simple but effective alternative for non-knitters...
cut material or felt in shape of a stocking. Sew edges.
Cut out ‘Christmassy’ images such as stars or snow flakes or
Christmas trees. Glue shapes on to the material. Sew a hoop
of material to the top edge to hang up the stocking.
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RAINBOW RUG
Materials: selection of DK yarn
Cast on 25 sts using No. 7 needles
Knit 6 rows garter st
1st
k10, k2tog, m1, k1, m1, k2tog, K10
2nd and every alternate row All K
3rd
5th
k9, k2tog, m1, k3, m1, k2tog, k9
k7, k2tog, m1, k1, m1, k2tog, k1) twice, k6
7th
k6, k2tog, m1, k3, m1, k3tog, m1, k3, m1, k2tog, k6
9th
k4 (k2tog, m1, k1, m1, k2tog, k1) 3 times, k3
11th k3, k2tog, m1 (k3, m1, k3tog, m1) twice, k3, m1, k2tog, k3
13th k4 (m1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, m1, k1) 3 times, k3
15th k5 (m1, k3tog, m1, k3) 3 times, k2
17th k7 (m1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, m1, k1) twice, k6
19th k8 (m1, k3tog, m1, k3) twice, k5
21st k10, m1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, m1, k10
23rd k11, m1, k3tog, m1, k11
Work 6 rows garter st
This will produce 1 finished square. To knit continuous strip in different colours knit 1
extra row before joining in the next colour. Knit to desired length. You might wish to
check when knitting several rows that you do not have 2 strips with same colour next to
each other.
The rug strips were joined with Cross stitch in a contrasting colour yarn. In this picture
dark navy blue was used, then across the width between the colour squares the same
yarn was threaded so it looked like patchwork squares. It was finished with a simple
crochet edging all around .
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Janet Reports from the Kent Quilt Show
As most of you will already know patchwork & quilting are my passion (my husband
says obsession) so when I was visiting daughter & family in October I was able to
indulge myself and daughter with a visit to Kent Quilt Show. What a feast for the eyes!
Where to begin? We decided to look at the exhibited quilts and hangings first, mostly
grouped in categories with name of quilt teachers/pupils or expert quilters. I’ve tried to
include a selection reflecting some of the more memorable exhibits.
There were some incredible quilt hangings in a Japanese section with a handsome
waistcoat by Reiko Domon being the star.
A selection under the title ‘Glimpses of Britain’
led by Gail Lawther included her ‘My Home, My
Heart, My Country’ together with some of these
themed hangings interpreted by her pupils.
I couldn’t resist the ‘Something Borrowed, Something
Blue’ quilt hanging from one of the Cabot Quilters (this
was their theme) which should appeal to embroiderers as
well as quilters.
Elsewhere the ‘Strawberries and Cream’ exhibit had us
drooling, it looked good enough to eat.
There were exhibits from one of the new younger quilters,
Hilary Beattie, under the theme ’Favourite
Things’ which were very intricate and delicate
such as these daisies and other similar flower
hangings, as well as many featuring people
and dogs in fine black piecing.
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The four individual flower appliqué
hangings were the result of a class
using the ‘S’ scroll taught by
Sheena Norquay, a well known
Scottish quilter. A separate
adjoining section covered various
stages in Sheena’s own progress
since she started quilting several
years ago with this beautiful
pictorial quilt being a real eye
catcher.
I couldn’t resist including this
Christmas one of dogs under
the mistletoe.
And of course this more
traditional Christmas hanging
rounds up my somewhat
shortened tour round the
show.
After a quick lunch it was time to
walk round the traders’ stalls trying
to decide what to buy (always more
difficult knowing what NOT to buy!)
I came away with fabric, buttons,
sari ribbons and must-have
gadgets, ideas buzzing round in my
head, so when I saw this Cat poem
embroidery I just had to take a
photo and think about making it for
my cat-mad husband when I have
nothing else to do!
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Over to you…
Rosie has been recovering from her
hip replacement operation but looks
like that hasn’t stopped her knitting
projects! Great to hear from you
Rosie!
At last I finished a knitted bag for my daughter. A
first attempt and it included a bit of recycling!
I used a designer mans shirt from a charity shop to line it as I
didn’t want it to stretch. I hand sewed it together though I do
have a machine! The strap was made from a webbing belt that I
bought at the same charity shop and hand sewed it too. The
wool I used was super chunky wool and it was quick to knit up.
The sewing was a labour of love and was my first and last!
The sock monkey was my first go and used an old
odd pair of socks. I thought that the stuffing was
the hard part! He looks a bit sausage- like! (ha ha).
I called it Sparky as he looks like a match!!! I think
I will leave stuffed toys to the experts from now on!
The hats were in 2 different
sizes using aran wool.
One flower is knitted using
a button to secure in the
middle, the other is larger
using flower loom.
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A Christmas Bauble from Fiona
Fiona came across this idea and wondered would any WISH-ers fancy making it up to
see how it turns out. It certainly is a crafty wee idea! Send us your photos if you take
up the challenge!
What you need
Snap open clear plastic bauble-4” diameter
Glass bauble-2” diameter
Christmas items or personal items
Glitter/small beads/white sticky
Pen/textured paper/ribbon/hole punch
What you do
1.
2.
3.
Inside larger bauble arrange the smaller bauble and the Christmas items or
personal items. Secure items with white sticky.
Sprinkle in half teaspoon of glitter and beads then carefully close larger bauble.
With gold pen, write special Christmas message on piece of paper or card.
More Quilts from the Kent Quilt Show
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Basic Crocheted Socks
(a pattern sent from Sue)
These crocheted socks are a great opportunity to practice
your crochet skills!
Size
Women's S (M)
Sample shown: 10" long x 8.5" around ball of foot (25 cm x
21.5 cm)
Materials
• Lion Brand Lion Wool (www.lionbrand.com/yarns/
lionWool.html) 100% wool (3 oz/85 g, 158 yd/144 m ball):
2 balls #113 Scarlet, or colour of your choice
• Crochet hooks sizes G-6 and H-8 (4 and 5 mm) [sizes H-8
and I-9 (5 and 5.5 mm)], or size to obtain gauge
• large-eyed, blunt needle
Gauge
For S: 5 single crochet = 1" (2.5 cm) with size H-8 (5 mm) hook.
For M: 4 single crochet = 1" (2.5 cm) with size I-9 (5.5 mm) hook.
Be sure to check your gauge.
Notes
These socks are easy to make in one flat piece. When finished, they will resemble
Turkish knitted socks, with the heel appearing to stick out when folded. On the foot,
however, they fit exactly as a commercial sock.
The leg can be made longer by crocheting the leg section an inch or two (2.5 – 5
cm) longer. The length of the foot can also be increased, ensuring that the top and
bottom of the foot are the same length.
Ribbing
With smaller hook, chain 11.
Row 1: Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, single crochet in each chain across,
turn – 10 single crochet.
Row 2: Chain 1, working in back loops only, single crochet in each single crochet
across, turn – 10 single crochet.
Repeat Row 2 for 40 more rows. Do not turn. Working along side of ribbing, work 1
single crochet in each row, turn – 40 single crochet.
Leg
With larger hook, work back and forth in single crochet, working through both loops,
on 40 stitches until piece measures 7" (18 cm) from beginning of sock. Cut yarn.
Top of foot
Row 1: With right side facing and larger hook, join yarn in 11th stitch from edge,
chain 1, single crochet in same stitch, single crochet in each of next 19 single crochet, turn.
Row 2: Chain 1, single crochet in each single crochet across. Turn – 20 single crochet.
Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 6" (15 cm) above joining or desired length, allowing 2" (5 cm) for toe, ending on wrong side. Note: The heel will add another
2" (5 cm). Measure foot and subtract 4" (10 cm) total for heel and toe to determine
desired length.
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Top of toe
*Row 1: Chain 1, decrease 1 single crochet in next 2 single crochet, single crochet
across to within last 2 single crochet, decrease 1 stitch in next 2 single crochet, turn.
Row 2: Chain 1, work even in single crochet, turn.
Repeat last two rows until 10 single crochet remain, ending with Row 2.
Bottom of toe
Row 1: Chain 1, 2 single crochet in first single crochet, single crochet across to last
single crochet, 2 single crochet in last single crochet, turn.
Bottom of foot
Work even on 20 single crochet until piece measures 6" (15 cm) or same length as
straight portion of foot.
Heel
Repeat from * to * as for toe shaping. Fasten off.
Finishing
Sew back leg seam. Fold sock in middle of the toe and sew both sides of foot. Fold
the heel in half, as with toe, and sew sides. Position the heel piece so that centre of
heel is in line with leg seam, and sew
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Get those articles and photos rolling in!
The deadline for submissions for the next WISH newsletter is
5th February 2013
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