1. pets
2. dogs

C.A.R.E.’s
The Official Monthly Newsletter
of Critter Adoption & Rescue Effort, Inc.
March 2015
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Board of Directors
Sharon Becker
Lisa Baker
Trish Todd
Marlene Greenberg
Phyllis Gannon
Carol Picot
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Medical Staff
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Director
Dr. Steve Harris
Dr. Sarah Hilario
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Critter Chronicles
President’s Message
By Sharon Becker
The Development Committee hit the ground running this year, with plans for our participation in Give Day Tampa Bay on
May 5th, the second annual Cruisin’ for Critters Poker Run on May 9th, and coordinating spring dog wash events with area high
schools.
Give Day Tampa Bay is the largest online fundraising event ever held in the U.S. and is sponsored locally by The Community Foundation and Florida Next Foundation. Last year C.A.R.E. joined over 300 other Tampa Bay nonprofits in an effort to
grow philanthropy within our community. The end result - over $1.9 million dollars was raised for Tampa Bay charities! Fortythree of the donors made contributions to C.A.R.E., totaling $2,680. This year’s event promises to have even more nonprofit and
donor participation. C.A.R.E. will be hosting at least one Give Day social event, as well as an awareness campaign on all of our
Facebook pages. We hope you will consider contributing.
Please save the date of May 9th for C.A.R.E.’s Second Annual Cruisin’ for Critters Poker Run. Last year we had two sponsors, four vendors, five businesses that provided locations for the five poker run stops, 39 participants, and a net profit of a little
over $1600. We hope to do even better this year! Of course events like this would not be possible without the support of our
amazing volunteers. We will need several volunteers to help plan and advertise the event, to provide baked goods which will
be served at the final stop, as well as staff the five stops during the run. If you are interested in helping with the event, please call
C.A.R.E.’s office at (813) 645-2273 and leave a message for me.
On the Cover: Sophie
By Eileen Dunnington
Pictures by Judy Martin
Sophie is a gray tabby with a white nose and cheeks.
She came to C.A.R.E. in a trap with two other feral kittens
back in January 2010, which makes her a long-time resident.
Her estimated date of birth is sometime in October 2009,
so she was only 3 months old when she started her life at
C.A.R.E.
Sophie was a very shy cat for a long time. We started
to see a change in her when C.A.R.E. purchased the more
shelter-friendly cat furniture for the cat facility, and Sophie
lost the cubbyhole that she always took refuge in to hide
from the volunteers and visitors. It seems that this was the
start of her journey to becoming the little social butterfly she
is today. She loves to flirt with Oreo, who resides in the next
room, through the screen on the lanai, but will come back
into the room to greet visitors.
Come visit this green-eyed beauty and see how friendly
she has become! She is spayed, microchipped, and current on
her shots. She would be a great addition to your household!
is the official monthly
newsletter of
Critter Adoption &
Rescue Effort, Inc.
1528 27th Street S.E.
Ruskin, Florida 33570
813.645.2273
www.careshelter.org
and is published by:
The articles and opinions in this
newsletter are the property of
C.A.R.E., Inc. and are not endorsed by
LuBelle Publishing, Inc. or its affiliates.
C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
3
Preparing your dog or puppy for a visit
to the veterinarian
By Joanne Rice
Visiting your veterinarian is essential to keeping your dog healthy and happy, and it is an important part of being a responsible pet owner.
However, a routine checkup can sometimes be
distressing to our canine companions.
When you consider what a vet visit entails,
you can begin to appreciate why your dog may
become overwhelmed and (sometimes) hard to
control. Not only will he encounter dozens of new
smells, but he may also hear barking dogs, meowing cats and strange voices. He may be handled by
vet staff in unfamiliar ways that could add to his
apprehension.
Help your dog feel more relaxed and even enjoy his vet visits by following these tips:
• Take the dog to the vet clinic for brief visits
prior to your appointment. Introduce him to the
clinic when it’s quiet to get him used to the smells
and sounds of the new environment so it won’t
be entirely strange to him when you actually go
for the exam. Let him meet the wonderful people
who work there; have the staff give him a treat
and place him on a scale; and allow him to sniff
the exam room. A few visits like this will help him
to associate the vet clinic with a positive experience. Make sure to call your vet office ahead of
time, to ensure it is a good time for your visit.
• At home, during quiet times, you can help
your dog become comfortable with being handled for a medical exam. Gently pat him on different areas of his body while he is in a relaxed state.
Mimic how the vet will examine the dog – touch
around his eyes and ears, gently hold his feet and
toes (which also helps alleviate his fear of nail
clipping), lift his lips and touch his teeth, gently
move his legs, etc. Take your time with this kind
of touch, and do it often so that it becomes an
agreeable experience for your dog, both at home
and at the vet.
• Some dogs never go anywhere in the car
except to the vet. Thus, a dog may begin to associate a car ride with visiting the vet and may begin
to worry the moment you put him in the car. To
prevent this anxiety, do some practice drives. Take
him somewhere fun, so he learns that a ride in the
car can end in a pleasurable destination.
• Exercise your dog before the vet visit. A
tired dog is more relaxed and easier to manage.
• Throughout the visit, stay relaxed and unconcerned. Your dog can sense your feelings, and
you need to remain calm so he can feel calm. Remember, your dog looks to you for his safety and
security.
• Keep your pet on a short leash while in
the waiting area, and maintain control of him
throughout your visit to avoid any stress, injury or
altercations with other pets. If he shows any signs
of aggression toward dogs or humans, be sure to
have him muzzled for everyone’s safety.
• If you have a small dog, take him into the
clinic in his carrier. He’ll feel more comfortable
being in his familiar space, with his blanket, toys,
etc.
• After the vet visit, take your dog somewhere fun to play and to reward him.
Your veterinarian and clinic staff will appreciate you taking the time to ensure your dog is
calm and comfortable during his visit.
Joanne Rice is a dog behavioral therapist and master trainer with Bark Busters Home Dog Training.
Bark Busters’ natural training system leverages the
same communications methods – body language
and voice control – that dogs follow as part of their
instinctive pack mentality. All training takes place
in the home where the problems generally occur.
In every market where Bark Busters is established,
a majority of veterinarians familiar with the technique recommend the company’s services. For
more information, call 813-240-6848 or visit www.
barkbusters.com.
Pudgy Pets
By Michelle Ferrera, DVM
We don’t care what your dog looks like in a
bathing suit, but we do want them to be healthy.
It has been estimated that 30-40 percent of pet
dogs and cats are overweight in the United
States. This is a result of excess calorie intake
and inadequate exercise, but other contributing
factors like breed, age, sterilization, hormonal
disorders, and medication side effects can play
a role.
What is considered ideal body condition?
The ribs should be easily felt, but not seen. There
should be a visible taper at the waist when
viewed from the top and the side. The base of
the tail should feel smooth with a thin layer of
fat over the bones.
Excess body weight takes a toll on your
pet‘s health. Earlier onset of arthritis with associated lameness, diabetes mellitus, skin problems,
heart and respiratory difficulty, and blood lipid
disorders are just a few of the problems associated with excess weight. These conditions will
shorten your pet’s healthy life span, and medical
intervention to treat these conditions results in
more frequent veterinary care and increased expense.
If you are uncertain if your pet is overweight,
or are not sure how to go about implementing a
weight loss program, please consult your veterinarian. Cats can develop life-threatening hepatic
lipidosis, a fatal liver condition, if placed on an
aggressive calorie-restricted diet. Your veterinarian can help you calculate the optimal weight
and calorie intake for your pet, help you choose
an appropriate diet and treats, and set a timetable for realistic weight loss for your pet.
Dr. Michelle Ferrera graduated from Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine in 1993. She
has practiced at Boyette Animal Hospital since
2003 where she provides medical and surgical care
for dogs, cats, birds, reptiles and small mammals.
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C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
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C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
5
Tales From The Bark Side: The Doorbell Game, Part One
By Terri Latronica, APDT, CPDT-KA
This will be a two-part article designed to
teach your dog proper manners at the front door.
If your dog barks at the doorbell, this game will resolve that issue. If your dog jumps on your guests,
it will teach the dog to go to a location, away from
the door, so the dog cannot jump on the guests
as they enter your home.
Getting started
Before you begin, decide what you would
like your dog to do when the doorbell rings. If
your dog has a history of barking at the sound of
the doorbell and jumping on guests as they arrive,
your goal will be twofold. You will teach your dog
to remain quiet when the doorbell rings and you
will also teach your dog to go to a different location to prevent him from jumping on your guests
when they arrive.
To teach “Quiet,” first you will get a doorbell kit that has the chime box and the button
ringer. You will not mount either. You will place
the box somewhere near your front door, out of
sight, on a table or bookshelf. You will keep the
little button near your favorite chair. At any time
you want to train, you will make sure you have
treats and a clicker available. Now just press the
button! When the dog barks, you will say “Quiet,
Come, Cookie.” Once your dog realizes that you
have a treat and he/she will be rewarded for quiet
behavior, the dog will come to you and stop barking in order to receive his/her reward. This doesn’t
happen overnight and you need to be persistent.
This is part of the bigger picture. We are breaking
it down into smaller pieces so it is easier to train.
Once you have this piece fully trained you are going to move on to the next step.
You will start by going to the door and jiggling the door handle. If your dog rushes past
you to the door, you will take your hand off the
handle. Take a couple of steps away from the door
and wait for the dog to move back. You will reward ANY backward movement by the dog no
matter how small it is. Now begin to wait at the
door. The dog should begin to take a step or two
back. When this happens, toss a treat on the floor,
away from the door. You will continue in this
manner until the dog no longer charges the door
when you jiggle the handle, but waits expectantly
for the treat.
You want to say “Quiet” if your dog is barking and reward for the dog being quiet once he/
she stops, or if the dog was quiet initially. Repeat
slowly walking to the door, jiggling the handle
and waiting for the dog to back up. Again you will
reward the dog for moving away from the door.
At this point you now have a decision to make.
What would you like the dog to do BEFORE you
C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
open the door? You might want to send him/her
to another room, to a crate, or to go outside for
simplicity or safety reasons. If your dog just barks,
or pushes you out of the way to greet your guests,
you might be able to train a "sit" or "down" after
the doorbell rings. Your final decision should be
one based on safety and realistic expectations. It
wouldn't be reasonable to ask a dog that escapes,
or has a history of nipping or becoming aggressive
when people come in, to sit or lie down as "scary"
strangers parade past; however, that would be a
wonderful goal for a dog that is overly friendly.
Training should always be done in a quiet environment. Make sure you have at least 10-15 minutes
of uninterrupted time whenever you practice so
that your dog is not distracted. Take your time,
practice a few times each day, and remember that
it could take several days or even a week or two
before you obtain the desired results.
Repeat the exercise 8-10 times, walking to
the door from different areas in your home (as if
someone had just rung the doorbell) and reward
the dog for any movement away from the door.
Be sure to tell your dog, "All done," or another release word, after each successful movement away
from the door.
Problem solver: When he/she sees you
touch the doorknob, your dog may be super
excited if he/she thinks someone is at the door
or he/she is going for a walk. If your dog pushes
toward the door or jumps on you, gently step between him/her and the door, using your body to
block his/her movement. Step forward into his/
her space, if necessary, to urge him/her to back
up. Remain calm so your dog will relax. Do not
make eye contact or talk, as this often gets dogs
more excited. Calmly, walk a few steps away from
the door. Drop a few treats slightly away from the
door in order to show him/her that “good things”
happen AWAY from the door.
Adding the cue and movement away from
the door
To teach your dog what to do after the
doorbell rings, practice this next stage in several
different steps. What you are teaching is that
when you approach the door after the bell rings,
a verbal cue will direct your dog to do something
else—go to another room, go outside, or "sit" /
"down" at a pre-determined location. The goal of
the foundation stage was to teach your dog to
have some manners, be quiet, as well as how to
give you some space at the door. Once you have
achieved that step, you can start to add the verbal cue, which tells your dog there is something
you want him/her to do when the doorbell rings.
However, you are still not ringing the bell just
yet. If you use a verbal cue such as "one minute
please," you can both inform your guests that you
will be right with them, taking the pressure off
you to hurry and answer the door, and use the
phrase as a direction cue to your dog to move
away from the door and toward the area where
you want him/her to go and wait before greeting
the guests.
Plant the seed that the best rewards come after movement away from the door.
Use the average-value treats as you begin
to add movement away from the door, clicking
and treating for the initial movement. Switch to
the high-value treats once you get your dog to
the area where he/she will be confined, or where
you want him/her to remain waiting in a "sit" or
"down." Plant the seed that the best rewards come
AFTER movement away from the door. Once you
have walked to the door, touched the doorknob,
and announced the "one minute please" cue, turn
and move away from the door, encouraging your
dog to move with you. Say something like "with
me" or "let's go" as you pat your leg or gently clap
your hands. The goal is to get 4-5 steps away from
the door and then click and treat several times
where you stop, using the best treats. Where you
stop could be the final destination for dogs that
will be located in a "sit" or "down" or an intermediate stop for those dogs that will need to be confined.
Confining your dog
For dogs that need to be confined, practice
getting farther and farther away from the door
as you progress, until you reach the area where
you will confine him/her. When you are ready to
practice confining your dog, keep in mind that
you may need to go all the way into the area with
him/her the first few times so that he/she doesn't
think you are "tricking" him/her into getting
locked outside or in another room. This is where
the high-value treats will come in.
Go all the way into the confinement area or
all the way outside with your dog (another reason you need to tell your guests, "one minute
please!"), and then have a click-and-treat party
with the high-value rewards! Add lots of praise
and fun talk. You really want your dog to think
this is the most wonderful game in the world so
that when you do add the doorbell, it is no big
deal and your dog will start to head toward the
confinement area as soon as they hear the doorbell. You can also do a food party, by tossing lots
of food around as you leave. Much later, when
all training has been completed, you can offer a
continued on page 7
6
stuffed Kong, or a wonderful chew treat for your
dog to work on as you leave him/her in the confinement area. If you are working with more than
one dog, only do this if you know that the dogs
won't fight over these treats.
Using a "sit" / "down" location
If you are going to work on a "sit" or "down," your
dog should already know that behavior. If your
dog doesn’t know how to maintain a “sit stay” or
“down stay” you will need to teach it to him/her
at this point. You should have a mat or rug several
steps away from the door so that your dog can be
sent to that area. The mat acts as a visual cue for
your dog and makes it much easier for him/her to
find his/her spot each time. It also prevents your
dog from sliding if the area has a slippery surface.
Direct your dog to the mat or rug after the "one
minute please" cue and ask for the "sit" or "down."
Begin to walk away slowly so that you can observe your dog as you move toward the door to
open it. The goal is to be able to return to the
door as your dog remains on the mat. Increase
the distance between you and your dog in small
steps, taking one step away and then coming
right back to click and treat him/her. Next, try
two steps, quickly moving back again to click and
treat. Continue to add more steps until your dog
will remain on the mat or rug and you can get all
the way to the door. As you work on increasing
the distance, take breaks and then resume your
training by going to the door from different areas
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in the house. Continue at this level until you can
get all the way back to the door with your dog
remaining on his/her mat or rug.
Next month we will begin with opening the
door. By then you should have accomplished all
the steps we have outlined this month.
Good Luck and Happy Training!
Terri Latronica is the owner, operator of Tender
Touch Training, one of the Tampa Bay’s most successful dog training schools, with over 30 years of
training experience. The Tender Touch way focuses
on positive reinforcement, giving you and your dog
a rewarding and happy learning experience. For
additional information or class schedules, call Boyette Animal Hospital at 813-671-3400.
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C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
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Spotlight On ...
Jeffrey is a newcomer to C.A.R.E. He is
a black Maine Coon who was relinquished
due to new allergies in his previous home.
He is four years old and a shy guy, but with
the loving care and socialization he is receiving at C.A.R.E. he is sure to be an outgoing critter in no time! He is very sweet and
loves to be petted. His eyes are huge round
orbs of gold, and really stand out against
his long black hair. Come visit this gorgeous
little guy!
Marietta
is a small, young calico
mommy to seven C.A.R.E. kittens. The
little family arrived at C.A.R.E. together
and had a rough start, but now are doing
much better thanks to the loving care
they have received. Marietta has done
a great job raising her kittens and is now
ready to move on to her forever home.
She has been spayed and microchipped,
and is current on her shots. Come see
this cute, friendly, playful little girl. You
are sure to fall in love with her!
Jenny is a black and white female, and
the only offspring of Nellie still at C.A.R.E.
As the sole female of the litter, she is also
the shiest, but she has a sweet personality
and gets along fabulously with her roommates at the shelter. Given some time and
attention, she is sure to become a lap cat
like her brothers Dory and Lenny. Come get
to know this sweet little girl. She has been
spayed and microchipped, and is current
on her shots.
Tammi is a seven to eight year old Lab/Rottweiler/Terrier mix with a deep chocolate coat and a calm and quiet disposition. Her favorite activity is
sitting beside the volunteers in one of the play yards, being petted while watching the squirrels scrambling around in the trees surrounding the yards.
On warm days, she also LOVES to wade in the doggie pool. She can be a handful on a leash, but is smart and capable of proper behavior with the
right guidance and leadership. Although she was found as a stray prior to being brought to C.A.R.E., we feel certain she was once a family dog, as she is
potty trained, capable of going several hours in the kennel with no accidents. While she enjoys the love and attention of the volunteers, she dreams of
a forever family, preferably one where she is the only dog in a home with a fenced yard. Tammi is spayed, micorchipped, current on her shots. She is in
process of heartworm treatment and medication will be included as part of her adoption fee. Tammi would love to have you stop by and spend time
with her!
C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
10
Alumni Updates
The dog and cat residents of C.A.R.E. dream of the day when they find a forever
home and get the chance for a life with their new family. Once placed in a home, we
like to hear from our adoptive families or the pets themselves about their family life
together or about what brings them the most joy. We publish these success stories and
their photos on the website and in the Critter Chronicles, and they are also used at outreach events. Besides enchanting our readers and bringing joy to the many volunteers
that cared for the rescues prior to their adoptions, these stories help the public see the
rewards of adopting pets from a shelter. If you would like to submit an update on a
C.A.R.E. rescue, please send the pictures and update to [email protected]. Be sure
to include contact information so that we can follow-up with you, if necessary.
Lucie ... formerly “Ivy”
Concetta, who is now Cheetah, is fitting in very well. She
hid for the first week, but is now everywhere. She loves grabbing her toy mouse and bringing it into our bed wanting me
throw it. She retrieves very well! She also likes playing games
on the iPad. ~ The Murphys
Hi, We just got home from camping and Desi and his big brother TJ loved posing and have bonded so well!
They run around the house and share the back of the couch when not in bed with me at night! Just had to share
picture of Desi and his "sister" Kodie! He just loves being close to everyone! And for Kodie to have Desi this close
is remarkable! ~ Thanks, Trish
Hi, We decided to change Cari’s name to Nandi soon after adopting her. She's doing well (minus the fact that
she acquired Demodex shortly after leaving C.A.R.E., ruh roh). She just finished her Ivermectyn and is taking antibiotics, and should be fine. She is full of energy and a great addition to the household. I have attached a picture,
as well as a video of her trying to get our friends' grumpy old dog to play! I don't have many, as I just recently got
a new phone, but I plan to take many more soon. ~ Sean Davis
Using Social Media
Please take the time to “Like” our pages and share our animals. The more
exposure they get the better their chances at finding forever homes!
C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
11
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C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
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13
Thank you to our Community Partners !
Local businesses where you can find a donation box or pick up Critter Chronicles.
Also listed are donors and advertisers. Please support them, as they support C.A.R.E.
H&R Block, Penny Smith
Incognito Lounge
Janus Home Services
John Moore’s Abbey Floor & Design
Joia Fabulous Pizza & Martini Lounge
Kathy’s Dog Grooming
Log Cabin Produce Stand
LuBelle Publishing, Inc.
Mail Box Store (Ruskin)
Mixon & Hubbell Law Offices
Murray’s Lawn Service
Oops A Daisy
Overstock Dog Food
Parklane Jewelry
Paws On The Go
Pawsitive Pet Photography
A Country Cat House
Adogable
All About Paws Pet Services
Anne’s Estate Sales
Apollo Meats
Apollo Rental Center
Around the World Animals
Bark Busters
Bella’s Pupcakes & Treats
Boggs Jewelry
Boyette Animal Hospital
Bri’s Eye Photography
Camp Bow Wow
Crossroads Ace Hardware
Doggie Entertainment
Dog Gone Holistic
Dog House & More
4 Boys Bait & Tackle
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C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
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14
Why Don’t Dogs Like Us Messing with
Their Feet?
By Linda Cole
All dogs need to have their nails trimmed
from time to time, even if they don’t like it. Some
breeds also need to have the hair between their
toes and paw pads trimmed to give them traction and prevent slipping. My dogs love to shake
hands and are used to me handling their feet. Yet
the minute nail clippers or scissors appear, it’s obvious this isn’t an activity they agree with. So why
will a dog bug you to shake hands, but then pull
his paw away when you hold on to it so you can
cut nails or trim hair?
Consider the importance we place on our
feet and hands. Feet give us mobility when we
want to move around or need to flee from danger. Hands are communication tools – how many
of you can talk without using your hands? It’s
much easier to take care of ourselves, stay clean,
eat, protect ourselves and perform other tasks
that would be difficult to do without hands.
To dogs, their feet are every bit as important
to their survival. Feet are used to chase down
prey, run away from danger, protect themselves,
dig holes to flush out prey, find cooler soil in the
summer or stay warmer in the winter, bury food
to prevent other animals from stealing it and investigate things. Dogs also use their feet to com-
municate.
Glands on their paw pads leave a scent trail
they can follow home, and scratching the ground
with their back feet after elimination spreads their
scent over a larger area. The scratch marks leave a
visual sign to other canines passing by. It’s natural
for dogs to instinctively protect their paws because if one or more were injured, it puts them
at a disadvantage. Today, most dogs don’t have
to worry about surviving in the wild, but their ancestors did and being apprehensive about having
their feet messed with is in their DNA.
The paw pad is thick and consists of fat and
tissue, acting like shock absorbers to protect joints
and bones. It provides insulation against harsh
continued on page 18
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March 21st • 9:00 am – 3:00 pm
Sun City Center Fun Fest
Central Campus,
North Pebble Beach Boulevard
March 21st • 10:00 am – 3:00 pm
Family Salsa Festival
Good Samaritan Mission
14920 Balm Wimauma Road
C.A.R.E.’s Food Shed
KIWI’s Quotes
A cat is a puzzle for which there is no solution.
~ Hazel Nicholson
There is no psychiatrist in the world like a puppy licking
your face. ~ Ben Williams
advertising in critter chronicles
is both affordable and easy!
March 14th • 9:00 am – 1:00 pm
Did you know that C.A.R.E. has a Food Shed?
Canned and dry dog and cat food donated by
community members gives C.A.R.E. the ability
to provide assistance to individuals in the community who are going through difficult times
and struggling to provide for their pets. If you are
interested in donating food to those in need, it
would be greatly appreciated.
Help Wanted
Tree of Life Coordinator
for more information, please contact us.
[email protected]
exceptional. niche. publications.
Please contact our Volunteer Coordinator at
[email protected] or 815-645-2273
863.874.0084
Need help locating pet friendly apartments? Check out www.myapartmentmap.com/apartments/fl/
C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
15
How YOU can make a difference in the lives of the cats and dogs:
There are a number of ways you can help us raise the funds we need to ensure a sound financial future for
C.A.R.E. You don’t even have to live locally to help us!
• Become a C.A.R.E. Volunteer
• Sign up for a C.A.R.E. Membership (form provided below), make a one-time donation, or set up an automatic
monthly donation. You can support C.A.R.E. with as little as $10 a month!
• Join C.A.R.E.’s Legacy Circle or leave a donation to C.A.R.E. in your Will
• Find out if your employer offers a Matching Gift Program or paid days off for charitable volunteer work
• Make a donation specifically for medical care or supplies for the animals
• Donate goods and services or items from our Wish List or Dream List
• Donate unused gifts of all kinds or gift cards that C.A.R.E. can use for Silent Auctions and Door Prizes at our
fundraising events
• Permanently honor or memorialize a special person or pet on our Tree of Life
• Advertise your business by purchasing an ad in the Critter Chronicles
• Support C.A.R.E.’s Community Partners and the businesses that advertise in the Critter Chronicles
• Be a C.A.R.E. Ambassador – help spread word about C.A.R.E.’s mission, achievements and community value;
and encourage your friends and neighbors to become a C.A.R.E. members or to donate
If you find you have some loose
change, C.A.R.E. is always in need of
the following items:
Towels
Canned Dog and Cat food
Rawhide bones
Toys for dogs and cats
Hard and Soft treats
for dogs and cats
Tidy Cat Scoopable litter
Yesterday’s News Cat litter
Tree of Life
Imagine yourself, your furry loved one, or even your business permanently
memorialized in our community as a supporter of animal welfare. C.A.R.E. launched a
capital fundraising project in 2011 designed to help raise the funds necessary to continue our mission for years to come, while providing a unique opportunity to recognize supporting citizens and community business leaders. In the fourteen years since
our inception, C.A.R.E. has provided medical care, temporary housing, rehabilitation,
and new homes for thousands of dogs and cats. We have also performed thousands
of spay and neuter surgeries for our rescues and low-income county residents to aid in reducing the homeless animal population in the South Shore region. The Tree of Life will be the permanent memorial at our animal shelter
to celebrate our animals and our supporters. The tree trunk design allows for the “growth” of the tree, through the
sale and mounting of engraved leaves and foundation stones. Though C.A.R.E. is financially solvent, we are entirely
funded and reliant on the generous donations of supporters. Our goal is to establish annuitized investments that will
provide C.A.R.E. future income to aid operating costs during periods of economic downturn and reduced donations,
and to combat rising veterinary and medication costs.
Quick release collars
Leashes
Laundry detergent
Dish soap
Refills for Hand Soap dispenser
13 gallon Trash bags
Postage stamps
Printer ink cartridges
(HP901 and Canon 128)
Pet Store gift cards
Office Supply gift cards
To find out more information about ways to support the rescues of C.A.R.E., contact our office 813-645-2273 or check
out our website www.careshelter.org
Become a member of CARE today !
Critter
Adoption
& Rescue
Effort,
Inc. Inc.
Critter
Adoption
& Rescue
Effort,
1528 27th St SE Ruskin, FL 33570
813---645---2273
www.careshelter.org
Name:
Date: ___________
Address:
City:
ST:
Zip:
Email:
□ $35 --- Basic Membership (includes car magnet)
□ $50 --- Premium Member (includes car magnet + t---shirt)
***Premium Members, please select a shirt size: □ S □ M □ L □ XL □ XXL
Please send my Critter Chronicles Newsletter via: □ Email
□ Check #
□ Regular mail
(please make checks payable to CARE)
□ Visa □ Mastercard □Discover CC #:
Exp. Date
/
Signature:
st
Note - The annual membership period is January 1st through December 31 of each calendar year. For any memberships initiated during
the fourth quarter (October 1 – December 31), the new member also receives their membership for that quarter free.
C.A.R.E. is a 501(c)(3) organization (59-3678003) registered with the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, Registration No. CH-14526. A COPY
OF THE OFFICIAL REGISTRATION AND FINANCIAL INFORMATION MAY BE OBTAINED FROM THE DIVISION OF CONSUMER SERVICES BY CALLING TOLL-FREE
(800-435-7352) WITHIN THE STATE. REGISTRATION DOES NOT IMPLY ENDORSEMENT, APPROVAL, OR RECOMMENDATION BY THE STATE. The inclusion of Advertisements in this newsletter shall not constitute an endorsement of the Advertiser of the Advertiser’s product or service by C.A.R.E., Inc. or by LuBelle Publishing, Inc.
C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
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C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
17
How to Read the Body Language of Cats
We've discussed the body language of dogs
many times. Responsible dog owners know how
important it is to learn to “read” the various signals
of their canine companion, and to act accordingly. Not much is said about the body language
of cats, but understanding a feline’s nonverbal
communication is equally important – especially
if you don’t want to be bitten or scratched. A cat’s
body language can also tell you things about their
health and how they feel.
I've heard people say that their cat “just attacked them without warning.” While this may be
true in some cases, I’m convinced that most of
the time the cat gave ample warning it wanted to
be left alone. However, if you aren't familiar with
the body language of cats, you can easily misread
their nonverbal signals, which might make it seem
like your normally friendly cat suddenly went psycho on you.
Although a cat may hiss and growl when it
wants you to stop petting them and leave them
alone, they may also use tail twitching. This can
be confusing to those who think a cat’s swishing
tail is similar to the wagging tail of a happy dog.
It is the exact opposite; moreover, you can use
the speed of the twitching tail to gauge just how
ticked off the cat is with your behavior. If they are
only mildly annoyed, their tail will swish slowly
back and forth, like a pendulum. As they get
more irritated with you, the speed and ferocity of
their tail movement increases until it is eventually thrashing like an out-of-control whip. If it has
progressed to this “whip” stage, a wise human will
immediately leave the cat alone, because a bite or
scratch is imminent.
To further complicate matters, a cat will
sometimes use slow tail twitching to signal that
they’re feeling playful. Thus, it can be difficult for
even the most astute cat whisperer to distinguish
between the annoyed slow twitch and the playful
slow twitch. One difference worth noting is that
the “I’m ready to play” tail twitch typically occurs
when the cat is not in contact with you, such as
when they are lying on their side or sitting on the
floor, away from you.
Cats also use their tail to communicate other emotions. When a
cat’s tail is standing straight up,
it means they are happy to see
you, they feel safe, and all is well
in their world. When their tail is
upright and quivering, they are ecstatic. A puffed up tail that resembles
a bottle brush indicates a fearful, defensive and emotionally
charged cat. It’s usually accompanied by an arched back and
fur that’s standing up – the mes-
C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chroni-
cles
sage here is “I want to appear much bigger than
I actually am.” Cats will also assume this posture
when preparing to “play fight” with another cat.
They will face each other and “puff up” before one
launches himself sideways onto the other, signaling the start of their roughhousing.
Cats show possessiveness with flattened
ears, laid-back whiskers, a lowered tail and slightly
crouched body position. You’ll see this posture
when your cat or kitten has a toy (especially one
with feathers or fur, which resembles prey) and
you try to take it away from them. Cats display interest in something by tilting their ears forward to
hear better, directing their whiskers forward, and
widening their eyes.
Staring directly at a cat is interpreted as aggression. And if they stare straight at you or another cat, this is meant as a challenge. A cat who
exhibits a “bug eyed” look is frightened. Cats also
communicate with their eyes by blinking, which
is said to be a form of greeting and an indication
that they like you. There is a “blinking experiment” you can try with your cat, wherein you sit
with them when they are relaxed and then slowly
open and close your eyes. Many times, the cat will
do it along with you. When I heard about this, my
initial reaction was “Yeah, right.” But I tried it with
my cats and was surprised to learn that they actually will blink back at me. Of course, felines being
the independent creatures they are, they don’t do
it all of the time.
A confident and content cat will hold their
head high and assume an upright posture. A cat
who lowers her head and turns it sideways to
avoid eye contact indicates lack of interest or passiveness. When a cat feels relaxed in her surroundings, she will lie on her side or back and show you
her belly. Unless the cat trusts you completely,
they won’t assume this posture in your presence.
Learning how to read the body language of
your cat can tell you a great deal about how they
are feeling. Their tail, ears, eyes, whiskers and legs
are all trying to communicate with you – don’t
you want to know what they are saying?
Why Don’t Dogs Like Us
Messing with Their Feet?
continued from page 15
weather conditions, helps with endurance and is
rough to provide traction when walking, making
quick turns and sprinting. Dogs that spend more
time on rough surfaces have tougher and less
sensitive paw pads than those that spend more
time on smoother surfaces. However, even dogs
with tough pads can burn their paw pads in the
summertime when walking on hot surfaces like
pavement and metal.
Toenails give the feet stability and maneuverability when running and walking. The top of
the foot is made up of sensitive nerve endings,
tendons, ligaments and connective tissue. If you
watch your dog’s feet when he’s walking, you can
see how the toenails seem to grip as he walks.
When you consider the importance dogs
place on their feet, you can understand why they
are protective of them and uncomfortable when
we try to clip their nails or trim hair between the
pads. Trying to force a dog to sit still during a pedicure can send the wrong message to your pet,
and make it feel like you are attacking them.
It’s necessary, though, to handle a dog’s feet
to inspect them after a walk or hike to remove
burrs, small rocks or twigs that may have become
lodged between the pads or toes. A dog’s feet
need to be cleaned during the winter months to
remove ice melt and deicers used on sidewalks
and streets. Sometimes you need to check them
for dryness that can cause the pads to crack, and
small cuts that can cause discomfort or become
infected if left untreated. And then there’s the ritual of trimming the toenails. It can be frustrating
when your touchy dog jerks his paw back just as
you get the nail lined up in the clipper.
When you’re losing the battle, take a deep
breath, sit back and consider how important a
dog’s feet are to them. They pull their feet back
because instinct tells them to protect their paws.
Sometimes a biscuit can help ease anxiety, but
understanding why holding their paw makes
them uneasy is a good reason to be patient, calm
and gentle. If you can’t do everything in one sitting, there’s nothing wrong with trimming one or
two nails each day until the job is done.
If you have problems trimming your dog’s
nails, an easy solution is to walk him on hard surfaces like a sidewalk or pavement because the
rough texture helps to wear the nails down naturally as the dog walks. Dogs may not like us messing with their feet, but sometimes we have to, for
their sake.
Reprinted with permission of CANIDAE®
All Natural Pet Foods
18
Cat Chat
Otis has switched locations! He
moved from his regular sleeping location to across the room. When I asked
him why, he meowed that he just
wanted a different view on life. . .
Mona told me that she is get-
ting a little bored sitting on the
perch to keep Kody company, and
would love to find a change of
scenery that a forever home would
provide. She meowed that she has
done her job raising her family and
is ready to move on. . .
Leo says he is feeling a little spunkier now that the weather is a little cooler.
He says he can enjoy the lanai even more now that his little old heart isn’t
pumping so hard. Even though he isn’t supposed to play due to his heart
condition, he told me that he really likes attention and really, REALLY likes
treats!
Alley confided that she really misses her pal Silver. She is very happy that
Silver found her forever home, but admitted she is a little jealous and hopes
her time comes soon. . .
By Eileen Dunnington • Pictures by Judy Martin
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C.A.R.E.’s Critter Chronicles
19
PRSRT STD
US POSTAGE
PAID
TAMPA FL
PERMIT 1741
1528 27th Street S.E. F Ruskin, FL 33570
C.A.R.E. has a three-acre shelter located in Ruskin and is an all
volunteer effort. We rely on the generosity of public donations
to continue our work. We have adopted over 2000 animals and
have spayed and neutered over 4000 in our discount clinic. We
are unique in the sheltering world as our animals do not spend
their time at C.A.R.E. living in cages. Dogs are outside during the
day and cats live in three open bays. We encourage visits and offer
tours to local groups.
Dr. Bob Encinosa
Dr. Steve Harris
Dr. Sarah Hilario
2604 College Ave. E. • Ruskin S.R. 674, 1/2 mile west of I-75 813-641-0090 Monday - Friday 8-5 • Saturday 8-2