ISSN 1392–1320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDŽIAGOTYRA). Vol. 17, No. 3. 2011 Pilling Resistance of Knitted Fabrics Gita BUSILIENĖ ∗, Kęstutis LEKECKAS, Virginijus URBELIS Department of Clothing and Polymer Products Tecnology, Kaunas University of Technology, Studentų 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania Received 02 November 2010; accepted 02 July 2011 Knitted fabrics with different quantity of elastane, conspicuous by high viscosity and elasticity, having one of the most important performance properties – resistance to pilling are often used in the production of high quality sportswear. During technological process imitating operating conditions, the behaviour of knitted fabrics may be changed by different industrial softeners from 12 % to 20 % of active substance, for example fatty acid condensate (Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion (Tubingal SMF). The aim of this investigation is to define the influence of fibrous composition and chemical softeners to the propensity of fuzzing and pilling of plain and plated jersey pattern knitted fabrics. The results of investigations showed that fibrous composition and thickness of materials (up to 6 %) and washing as well as softening (from 33 % to 67 %) change the resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling. Keywords: textile, knitted fabrics, pilling, chemical softening. INTRODUCTION∗ MATERIALS AND METHODS Products of knitted fabric are characterized as being elastic, resilient, soft, they have good draping properties, and cling well to body to inhibit movement. However, during exploitation, pills form on the surface of the knitted fabric, remaining on the surface of the product and worsening its exterior. The process of formation of pills consists of three stages [1]: due to mechanical impact to the surface of rasped products, firstly, the tips of several fibres of fibre are pulled out creating a fuzzy surface. Later, broken fibres grip to felt tips and forms separate, gradually growing pills. Fibres holding these pills are griped strongly, later however, due to the further mechanical impact (attrition, washing and other) they may rub away and fall off. The resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling depends on the density of fabric, i.e. when the length of knitted fabric loop decreases and the surface density increases, the resistance to pilling grows [2, 3]. When analysing the influence of weave to propensity of pilling and fuzzing of knitted fabrics, it was defined that rib knitted fabrics were resistant to pilling most of all, interlock knitted fabrics are less resistant, and plain weave knitted fabrics are tend to pilling more [2 – 6]. It was defined in previous works that the twist, fuzzing, quantity of fibers, cross-section structure of knitted fabric change resistance to pilling: when the twist of yarn is bigger, the fuzzing of fabric then decreases [7 – 8]. Properly selected formation way of yarn, fabric weave and facing can improve the quality of knitted fabric [9]. Washing intensity the process of pilling [10] which varies depending on chemical softeners used during washing [11], however, their influence to above-mentioned process is not fully investigated. The aim of the work was to define the influence of fibrous composition and chemical softeners on of fuzzing and pilling of knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics of different fibrous composition made of natural (cotton), artificial (reclaimed bamboo, viscose) and synthetic (polyester, polyamide) fibre were analysed in the present work (Table 1). The structure of the investigated objects was reseached referring the standards as follows: defining of the fiber content – LST EN ISO 1833; measuring of the density – LST EN ISO 14971:2006; defining of the loop length – LST EN 14970:2006; measuring of the surface density – LST EN 12127:1999; measuring of the thickness – LST EN ISO 5084:2000. The change of the thickness ∆δ was defined using the thickness gauge SCMIDT DPT 60 DIGITAL, the precise class 0.01 mm: δ1, when p1 = 1 kPa; δ2, when p2 = 5 kPa. The surface density and thickness of plain and plated jersey pattern knitted fabrics chosen for the investigation are similar, respectively from 202 g/m2 to 222 g/m2 and from 0.56 mm to 0.79 mm. Some fabrics have different quantity of elastane (EL), and this enable to determine its impact to pilling of knitted fabrics. To evaluate the influence of washing and chemical softeners to propensity of fuzzing and pilling of knitted fabrics, the washing procedure of a specimens (40 cm × 50 cm) was performed, according to the standard ISO 6330:2000 [12]. After the washing, specimens were rinsed in baths with two different softeners: fatty acid condensate (Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion (Tubingal SMF). The composition of washing agent and softeners as well as the recipe are submitted in Table 2. The scheme of procedure of knitted fabrics washing and softening using two different softeners is submitted in Figure 1. The propensity to pill and fuzz of dry (control) and washed as well as softened knitted fabrics was defined following modified Martindale method (standard ISO 12945-2:2000) [13]. Before the investigation all specimens were held in standard conditioned conditions (φ = 65 % ±2 %, T = 20 °C ±2 °C) according to the requirements of standard ISO 139:2005 [14]. ∗ Corresponding author Tel.: +370-620-88113; fax: +370-37-353989. E-mail address: [email protected] (G. Busilienė) 297 Table 1. Characteristics of investigated knitted fabrics Density Fabric symbol Composition Pattern Course dir. Pc, dm–1 Wale dir. Pw, dm–1 Loop length, mm Surface density, g/m2 Thickness δ1, mm Thickness change ∆δ, % 95 % PES, 5 % EL 245 150 2.76 202 0.56 - M2 90 % PES, 10 % EL 250 155 2.88 211 0.63 3.2 M3 87 % PES, 13 % EL M4 95 % PA, 5 % EL M5 90 % PA, 10 % EL M6 95 % Viskose, 5 % EL M7 92 % Viscose, 8 % EL M8 88 % Viscose, 12 % EL M9 M10 Plain and plated jersey M1 340 200 2.48 219 0.59 3.4 245 175 2.80 214 0.57 1.8 205 155 3.10 205 0.70 5.7 215 155 2.83 206 0.79 8.9 230 160 2.81 208 0.62 9.7 310 175 2.62 210 0.59 11.9 95 % Cotton, 5 % EL 265 160 2.75 222 0.77 3.9 95 % Bamboo, 5 % EL 215 170 2.53 215 0.56 3.6 Table 2. Chemical character (structure) and recipe proposals of washing agent and softener‘s Washing agent/ /softener title Character Chemical character Appearance Ionic Character BEICLEAN RG-N Low-foaming washing and emulsifying agent Modified fatty alcohol ethoxylates Colourless liquid Nonionic BEIMPLEX NWS Detergency booster for Professional textile care Polycarboxylates, phosphates Clear, pale yellow liquid Anionic TUBINGAL 5051 Hydrophylic softener concentrate, soluble in cold water Fatty condensation product Light yellow liquid TUBINGAL SMF Softener and additive for the final finish of textiles, preferably used for padding mangle applications Functional polysiloxanes, micro-emulsified acid Washing agent: BEICLEAN RG-N and addition BEIPLEX NWS Duration: 31 min. Temperature: 40 °C Cycle.: 5 ml/kg (dry laundry): 10 ml BEICLEAN RG-N and 5 ml BEIMPLEX NWS (both mixing approx 30 °C of water), value pH ~ 7 Cationic ml/l: 120 ml softener/ /880 ml of soft water (approx. 40 °C), value pH = 4.5 Nonionic g/l: 1 g of softener/0.,5 g of acetic acid (100 %) or 3 g of acetic acid (9 %) (approx 40 °C of water), value pH = 5.5 partially cover the surface of specimen; 2 – significant fuzzing on the surface and (or) significant pilling. Pills of different size and density cover a large part of the surface of specimen; 1 – particularly significant fuzzing on the surface and (or) significant pilling. Pills of different size and density cover all the surface of specimen. During the experiment, using standard photos, specimens were evaluated after every 1000 rotation cycle giving the following grades: grade 5 – surface did not change; 4 – insignificant fuzzing on the surface and (or) partially formed pills; 3 – medium fuzzing on the surface and (or) medium pilling. Pills of different size and density Washed in automatic washing machine Transparent, colourless liquid Recipe Proposals Marking Rinsed in a bath Centrifuging Softener‘s: TUBINGAL 5051 (fatty acid condensation product) TUBINGAL SMF (functional polysiloxanes, micro-emulsified) Duration: 20 min. Temperature: 40 °C Duration: 10 min. Spin speed/rpm.: 600 Cycle.: 5 Fig. 1. Scheme of the knitted fabrics washing and softening procedure 298 Drying in horizontal pozition Duration: t > 10 h fabrics M1 – M3, they scrubbed only the polyester layer, that‘s on the top, while the lower level, knitted with the elastane fiber, remained not touched. Therefore elastane fiber, depending on its quantity in the fabric more or less pulls, makes a more thick the polyester top layer [5]. Knitted fabrics M4 and M5 are from polyamide fibres, however their resistance to pilling is different, pilling of knitted fabric M4 (5 % EL) is evaluated by grade 4 after the achievement of 14000 revolutions, while fabric M5 (10 % EL) – grade 1 just after 5000 revolutions. Fabric M4 differs from fabric M5 by special method of facing which changes the resistance of the fabric surface to mechanical influence. It is suggested, that resistance to the pilling of the fabrics M4 and M5 differs significantly because of the fiber content and structure differences: M4 is made from polyamide 6,6 (7.8 tex from tow fibers) and elastane (2.2 tex.), and M5 – from polyamide (16.9 tex) and elastane (4.4 tex). The fabric M5 is more thicker with a lower density than fabric M4. When sampling during scrabbling the surface contacts more close to the device top part. The loops of the fabric M5, characterised by less density and bigger loop length, are easier going out with faster fuzzing as well breaking and is less influenced and less resistance to pilling [2, 3]. The fabric M4 is more resistant to pilling than M5, because of its pattern, plain and plated jersey pattern, when elastane is inserted into the each line of knitted fabric, the elastane fiber is not scrabbled directly. The pattern of the fabric M4 is plain and plated jersey pattern, when elastane is inserted into the each second line of the knitted fabric. Knitted fabric M5 from polyamide fibres is similar to knitted fabrics (M6 and M8) from viscose fibres by its resistance to pilling because permissible pilling grade 3 was achieved from 2000 to 3000 of revolutions, and grade 1 – after 5000 revolutions. Fabric M3 from cotton fibres is of similar resistance to pilling (grade 3 was achieved after 2000 revolutions), however it was evaluated by pilling grade 1 after 6000 revolutions. The Martindale abrasion device forces the directing plate of specimen’s holder to draw the figure of Lissajous. The movement of Lissajous is changing from the circle till the gradually narrowing ellipse, and finally becomes line, from which again the ellipse is formatting obliquely in the opposite direction up to the picture repeates. The pilling revolution is considered each rotation, and 16 rotations is considered as Lissajous figure. When defining grade 1 of pilling of each fabric corresponding the number of revolution (P), the experiment was repeated with two times less the number of revolutions (TP). This allowed to verification of the results within the range of insignificant pilling and to prepare specimens for further investigation. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION To define the propensity of fabrics to fuzz and pill, the results of investigation of control (P and TP) and washed (Figure 1) knitted fabrics (Table 1) as well as softened in different softeners (Table 2) were compared. Knitted fabrics from PES fibres M1 and M2 have the greatest resistance to fuzzing and pilling: their propensity to fuzz and pill to grade 1 was not determined even after 14000 revolutions (Figure 2). Knitted fabric M3 (87 % PES and 13 % EL) is of a very high quality and resistant, after only 14000 revolutions it was evaluated by grade 1, while the maximum recommended number of revolutions in the standard is 7000. Knitted fabrics M1 – M3 resistance to propensity of fuzzing and pilling is determined by the structure of yarn – it is composed influenced by fiber content [3]: M1 – composed from PES fibers (16.7 tex) and elastane (2.2 tex), M2 – composed from PES fibers (16.7 tex, 96 filaments) and elastane (4.4 tex), M3 – composed from PES fibers (11 tex, 164 filaments) and elastane (4.4 tex). The exclusiveness of all three fabrics was also determined by the pattern - plain and plated jersey pattern. The elastane is inserted into the each line of the knitted fabric, for other investigated fabrics, into each second line. Thus, during the pilling investigation of the 15000 1 14000 13000 Number of revolutions 12000 11000 10000 9000 8000 7000 4 6000 4 4 5000 1 1 4000 1 1 1 3000 1 2000 1000 0 M1 M2 M3 M4 M5 M6 M7 M8 M9 M 10 Tested knitted fabrics Fig. 2. Investigation (P) results change of knitted fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling (on five grades of pilling from 5 – 5/4; – 4; – 4/3; – 3; –3/2; – 2; – 2/1; –1 to 1): – 5; 299 M8 M7 8 6 M6 M5 4 r = 0.681 2000 4000 6000 r = 0.984 6 4 r = 0.948 2 0 M4 M1 0 VI, EL 8 M2 M3 M9 M 10 2 12 10 Δδ, % Δδ, % 12 10 8000 10000 12000 14000 PES, EL 3 9 6 15 12 Amount of elastane, % Number of revolutions a b Fig. 3. Relationship between the change of thickness of knitted fabrics Δδ and number of rotations (a) corresponding maximum pilling grade and quantity of elastane in fabric (b) When the quantity of elastane increases in the composition of knitted fabrics, the change of thickness ∆δ increases (Fig. 3, b) [5], and the resistance to pilling decreases (Fig. 2). For example, when the quantity of elastane of knitted fabrics M1, M2, M3 changes respectively 5 %, 10 % and 13 %, it changes the thickness – 0 %, 3.2 % and 3.4 %. First insignificant changes of the surface of fabric M1 were observed after 6000 rotations (grade 4), M2 fabric just after 1000 rotations was evaluated between grade 5 and 4, and evaluated by grade 4 after 3000 rotations. Figure 2 shows how the resistance to pilling of knitted fabric M3 differs comparing it with M1 and M2. The influence of washing (after 5 cycles) and softening using two different softeners (fatty acid condensate and silicone micro emulsion softener) to propensity of knitted fabrics fuzzing and pilling, it was defined that the procedure of washing and softening increases the propensity of knitted fabrics to pilling (Fig. 4) [10, 11]: the propensity of pilling of M3, M5 – M10 knitted fabrics increases from 33 % to 67 %. Washing and processing using chemical softeners do not have substantial influence to the propensity of pilling of knitted fabrics M1, M2 and M4. Subjective pilling evaluation method applied in the investigation did not allow to define substantial differences between the results of a specimens influenced by different The propensity to fuzz and pill of fabrics M7 (from viscose fibres) and M10 (from reclaimed bamboo fibres) is undesirably large: after just 1000 revolutions, specimens were evaluated by grade 3, and after 3000 revolutions – by grade 1. The obtained results showed that the resistance of fabrics which differ by its main fibrous composition (EL 5 %) to propensity of pilling is different. Specimens of fabrics from PES and PA fibres were evaluated by grade 4 only after 14000 revolutions, while fabrics from viscose (M6) and cotton (M9) fibres achieved pilling grade 4 after just 1000 revolutions. The worst result was in fabrics of reclaimed bamboo fibres (M10) which achieved pilling grade 3 after just 1000 revolutions. The influence of fabric softness to their resistance to pilling, it was defined that when a change of fabric thickness increases (Δδ), their resistance to pilling decreases (Fig. 3, a) [3, 4, 7]. The exception is the results of investigation of knitted fabrics M9 and M10 which are determined by fibrous composition of the fabric. The influence of change of thickness to pilling of fabrics strongly correlates (r = 0.984) when comparing the results of knitted fabrics from PES and PA fibres. Strong linear dependence (r = 0.903) between change of thickness and resistance to pilling was obtained comparing the results of fabrics from PES and viscose fibres. Number of revolution 14000 12000 4 3 4 4 4/3 3 1 3/2 4 4 4/3 10000 8000 6000 1 4000 1 2000 1 0 M1 M2 M3 M4 1 1 M5 1 1 1 M6 1 1 M7 1 1 1 M8 1 1 M9 1 1 1 1 M 10 Tested knitted fabrics Fig. 4. The results of investigation of maximum propensity of pilling and fuzzing of knitted fabrics (P): – control specimens; washed and softened using fatty acid condensate; – washed and softened using silicone micro emulsion softener 300 – Number of revolutions 7000 6000 4/3 4/3 5000 4000 3000 4 2000 3 1000 3 0 M3 3 4/3 M5 3 3 3 3 M6 3 3 3 3 M7 M8 3 3 M9 3 3/2 3 3 M10 Tested knitted fabrics Fig. 5. The results of investigation of permissible propensity of knitted fabrics to fuzz and pill (TP), when the number of cycles is decreased halfway: – control specimens; – washed and softened using fatty acid condensate; – washed and softened using silicone micro emulsion softener 3. softeners. The exception is the results of knitted fabrics M3, M8 and M9 which showed that specimens softened by fatty acid condensate are more resistant to pilling than a specimen softened by silicone micro emulsion softener. After the performance of additional experiment, when the number of rotations is twice less than all knitted fabrics, it was defined that the influence of washing and softening to pilling of knitted fabrics remains tendentious (Figure 5). When applying the number of rotations which was twice less than all investigated fabrics, the lower evaluation of resistance to pilling is up to grade 3 and it confirms that fabrics can be exploitable further. 4. 5. 6. CONCLUSIONS Knitted fabrics from PES fibres have the greatest resistance to pilling as their resistance is influenced by fibre structure and facing. Investigated knitted fabrics from viscose and reclaimed bamboo fibres have the lowest resistance to pilling. Knitted fabrics from reclaimed bamboo fibre distinguished by quickest pilling process: just after 1000 revolutions it was evaluated by pilling grade 3. When the change ∆δ of knitted fabric thickness increases up to 9.7 % the resistance to pilling decreases up to 64 %. It defined a stronger linear dependence between the quantity of elastane in investigated knitted fabrics and thickness change Δδ confirms that the quantity of abovementioned fibre has influence to pilling. The procedure of washing and softening worsened the resistance to pilling of investigated knitted fabrics from 33 % to 67 %. 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