travel +Christchurch The Christchurch earthquakes were devastating. But with characteristic resolve – and much innovation – Cantabrians are finding artistic ways to show their resilience. “Without the pressure of the coming centuries, the built-in obsolescence of the structures is enabling the city to take risks it previously hadn’t.” Clockwise from opposite page: Gregor Kregar’s “Reflective Lullaby”; new public spaces; the Transitional Cathedral; Tony Fomison’s “No”. J the art of renewal utting into the bright blue of the Canterbury sky, the Transitional Cathedral’s sleek, angular mother-of-pearl shell is a startling sight. The Shigeru Bandesigned A-frame cathedral, with its remarkable cardboard beams and shipping container buttresses, exemplifies something of the sense of playfulness and adventure in the new Christchurch, and presents a striking change to the small stone church of St John’s that had occupied this spot before the 2011 earthquake. Once famous for being “more English than the English”, Christchurch is a place that was created by hardy settlers, who cleared plains and reclaimed swamps. That pioneering spirit is evident once again in the city as a response to the series of rapid, drastic and painful changes that have occurred in the aftermath of the city’s earthquakes. For long-term residents, there are disconcerting moments when a familiar street cannot be recognised or a loved landmark has disappeared, but alongside this is the hope and excitement that the rebuild has brought with it. With many of the heritage buildings in the city now gone, the empty spaces they have left behind are being temporarily occupied by something entirely different. Even the new cathedral’s name highlights the changes in the way Cantabrians are viewing their city. This switch to building and sites as temporary, rather than permanent, means the people of Canterbury are taking chances with the new structures and art works in their midst. Without the pressure of the coming centuries, the built-in obsolescence of the structures is enabling the city to take risks it previously hadn’t. That whatever is created is temporary seems to have inspired a new approach and the city is not shying away from utilising transitional spaces and materials. A new breed of art is taking over where previously rows of old-fashioned planter beds were interspersed with traditional bronze statues of Queen Victoria and Sir Robert Falcon Scott. Much of the central city was cordoned off until mid-2013 due to the danger caused by the instability of the buildings. The “Red Zone”, as it became known, is still a highly charged place. Facing the Transitional Cathedral is “185 Empty a i r n ewzea l a n d . co . n z KiaOra 53 +Christchurch travel Clockwise from bottom: Pete Majendie’s “185 Empty Chairs”; inside the Transitional Cathedral; Tess Sheerin’s “Giraffing Around”. Chairs”, an installation by artist Pete Majendie. Covering an empty lot, 185 chairs of every shape, size and era, from wheelchairs to bentwoods, ergonomic stools to armchairs, are painted a uniform white. They sit in neat rows as though seating an audience, representing those who died in the earthquakes. Currently situated where another demolished church used to sit, they reflect solemnly over streets near the site of the CTV buildings, where a number of earthquake victims died. Although “185 Empty Chairs” is more sombre than many of the works scattered about the city, the installations all share a feature – the unorthodox use of spaces that have only recently become vacant as Cantabrians begin to take back these parts of their geography. Running diagonally over the site of what was the Crowne Plaza, a series of large crossed arches form The Arcades Project. Ten bays of glue laminate and steel create an arcade walkway that leads the viewer’s eye from Victoria Street down towards the bridge over the Avon, leading to Victoria Square. They sit beside the strikingly blue Pallet Pavilion, a local performance venue and focal point of community passion for these temporary spaces. Partly crowd-funded, the pavilion offers the kind of communal outdoor urban space that has been missing since the Arts Centre has been unavailable. The Arcades Project is designed to be a temporary structure, one that can be relocated and reused in different ways. The open space between each bay invites a stroll, and against the boxy buildings in various states of construction and demolition that surround them, their curves suggest something organic and friendly. In autumn of 2014, Lonnie Hutchinson’s temporary work, “I Like Your Form”, will transform The Arcades Project by suspending a large eel trap, or hinaki, under the arches, running the length of the arcade. One major factor in the reclamation of the city is the Christchurch Art Gallery. “The installations share a feature – the uncommon use of spaces that have only recently become vacant as Cantabrians begin to take back these parts of their geography.” 54 airnewzealand.co.nz KiaOra a i r n ewzea l a n d . co . n z KiaOra 55 +Christchurch travel “The work both mimics the many cranes in the central city, and draws the viewer’s attention to the missing tall buildings.” Its mission has been to turn the inner city into a gallery and it won the Award for Exhibition Excellence at the New Zealand Museum Awards in 2013, despite its current lack of a dedicated exhibition space. The Outer Spaces project comprises numerous works, and its 10th anniversary programme “Populate” was designed to, in the words of director Jenny Harper “bring the people back in”. The gallery identifies itself as “crucial to the heart of the city”, and even without a physical base, it returns a sense of life to central Christchurch. The works in the Outer Spaces programme are whimsical and fun, and encourage a new perspective on the spaces they occupy. Harper talks about how negotiating the use of these spaces has been difficult. Staff have had to tread the fine line between working with land owners and still delivering a dynamic display. Although not every site the gallery would like to use has managed to walk this line, where it has, something spectacular has happened. One such place is the very top of the old High Street Post Office building on the corner of Tuam and High streets. Rising from the art deco roofline, Ronnie van Hout’s sculptural self-portrait, “Comin’ Down” presents a 3.5m-tall man in a rumpled suit and sneakers, his right arm, strangely elongated, raised, pointing skyward. Not immediately noticeable, the work both mimics the many cranes in the central city, and draws the viewer’s attention to the missing tall buildings. The Gallery has a focus on bringing faces to the city, and almost immediately below “Comin’ Down” is an enormous copy of Tony Fomison’s “No”. On the nowexposed side of a terraced building, “No” is a dark and thoughtful image that confronts the viewer with a man’s face and his hand, held palm out, as he casts his eyes away. Described by the gallery as “unexpected company”, the work has had its own unexpected visitor. Spray-painted on the lower portion in jagged white lettering, the tagger whose mark was covered by the piece has suggested to the city that it should “Save your s*** art for the gallery”. Initially the gallery’s impulse was to remove this, but Harper enjoyed both the tagger’s humour and the authentic response it provided. Other street artists such as Tess Sheerin are transforming blank walls into Clockwise from opposite: Ronnie van Hout’s “Comin’ Down”; Cafe Woohoo is tucked into the Pallet Pavillion; Smash Palace. 56 a i r n ewzea l a n d . co . n z KiaOra 57 +Christchurch The Arcades Project, looking towards Victoria Square. do travel Explore the famous High Street of Christchurch, unrecognisable since the Earthquake. The High Street Story app is downloadable to smart phone or tablet, and offers a way to simultaneously view the street as it was and currently is. historic.org.nz Be guided through the central city with Christchurch Rebuild Tours. This tour replaces the Red Zone Tour as the city moves into a new phase of its existence. With a focus on the future of the city, the tour also includes many of the city’s transitional projects such as the Re:Start Mall and Gap Filler. redbus.co.nz eat Exemplifying temporary architecture, Smash Palace sits proudly in a skin of scaffolding and containment wrap on the corner of Bealey Avenue and Victoria Street. Currently decorated in graffiti as part of the Rise exhibition, a celebration of street art, Smash Palace is an excellent place to find an early-evening beer and burger, all the while sitting in repurposed buses and garage space. thesmashpalace.co.nz Possibly one of the best-known temporary spaces in Christchurch, the Pallet Pavilion (palletpavilion.com) sits on the site of the old Crowne Plaza Hotel, using some of its concrete foundation as an anchor for the steel poles that hold up the towering walls of blue wooden pallets. On the interior, hundreds of plants spring from the walls, and the Pavilion is a focus for a number of food caravans which come and go. Operating out of a little, but well thought out, caravan, Cafe Woohoo is a permanent place to locate a good cup of coffee. facebook.com/CafeWooHoo beacons of hope. She has created two murals in the city, “The Hope Bear” and “Giraffing Around”. She sees her works as part of the new Christchurch and has described the way she hopes that her art will enable the community to “reconnect with the central city again”. Elsewhere, at one still-unusable entrance to the gallery building, two large, cheerful and relentlessly shiny garden gnomes beam out from their spot above the pavement. These gnomes, Gregor Kregar’s “Reflective Lullaby”, with their traditional purpose of protecting the garden, seem a perfect piece of art for the Garden City. Their conventionality is now cloaked in something unexpected and wonderfully surprising, like much of what is occurring throughout the city. Christchurch is not a place to succumb easily. Having shown its stoicism in the aftermath of the quakes, the city is now demonstrating another admirable side of itself. Vibrant, innovative and fun: Christchurch is full of surprises, both for locals and visitors. STORY Laura Borrowdale Photographs David Straight 58 airnewzealand.co.nz KiaOra Contact christchurchnz.com Air New Zealand offers nonstop flights to Christchurch from across the domestic network. Christchurch
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