1. sports
2. fencing

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About this catalog:
This catalog will give you information on products I offer, options and pricing.
(Pricing is subject to change without notice. ) Since I am not taking orders at this time the pricing is provided for your
reference.
Lord willing, I will be done with my current backlog of orders sometime in 2015 or 2016. In the mean time I have
started a “contact list”. If you would like to be placed on the contact list just send me an email at [email protected] .
Here’s how the contact list works: I’ll put your name down on the list with the understanding that I have no idea
when I will get to your order. It’s just a reminder to contact you when I get to your name too see if you’d still like a knife or
gear or both. When I contact you I will ask what you’d like, I’ll get you a price and current wait time and at that time you can
say yes or no thanks. You have no obligation to follow through at all with the order. At the time I contact you you may order
one or more items if you like. If you’d like more than one item but don’t want to pay for it all at one time (like the previous
example) then you can get on the contact list more than once. For example you ask to be put on the list in January and four
months later you ask to be put on for a second order. This will likely space your orders out where you don’t have one huge
order to pay for at one time.
Each knife and piece of gear will be slightly different from all others since they are handmade. I use no jigs while
making the knives so variations will always be there.
Also please note that I continue to update/change knife patterns in small ways (sometimes major ways) depending on
what my testing indicates. Please inquire before ordering, if you see a change to a certain pattern or design on the website.
About Turley Knives:
I make each knife and each piece of gear by hand here in my shop and I make each one to the best of my ability. I’ve
tested each knife or piece of gear personally and for the use they are intended for so you don’t have too. That research,
development and testing gives me the confidence to know I’m delivering to you the best product on the market for it‘s
intended purpose, so buy with confidence. You can take a look at my testing and research videos by searching Turley Knives
on youtube. Pictures (even moving ones) speak louder than words.
In addition to that, several of my knives have traveled to the combat zone with professional fighting men and I’m
glad to say that all have been pleased with how they performed.
I’ve supplied knives to Navy Seals, Green Beret, F.B.I, Air Force sere specialists, combat soldiers and Marines in line units as
well as soldiers from allied nations such as Canada and the United Kingdom. When I say Turley knives are hardwoods tested
and combat proven I’m not just whistling Dixie. That’s something I’m proud of and I believe you can be proud that your
Turley knife has seen hard use and proven itself the world over.
I always try to use the best materials available when making knives and gear. Every aspect of them is completed by
me personally.
If you’re so inclined to buy a Turley Knife or piece of Turley woodsman gear I’d be much obliged and glad to make
you one.
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Warranty information:
I guarantee that each Turley marked knife is made by my two hands (or my wife in the case of some sheaths) and that
each one is free from making defects that might cause failure. If any defect is found while used as intended, simply return the
knife to me for fixing or replacing as long as I am making knives. No matter if you are the first owner or not, the knife is
guaranteed as long as I am making knives.
Each piece of gear I make will be free of any making defect, if not return it unused for a full refund. Normal wear
and tear on soft items such as packs, chest rigs etc is not covered under this warranty.
Each knife will come with a certificate of authenticity, this will include important information that should stay with
the knife should you decide to part with it. At the bottom of the sheet it will state the intended use of that particular knife. The
uses defined as follows:
Woodsman’s knife: includes hard use such as batoning and light prying
Heavy combat knife: includes hard use such as batoning and prying
Combat knife: includes hard use such as batoning and light prying
Light use woodsman’s knife: usually termed “light use” due to the sharper tipped profile. The uses warrantied
include batoning but no prying with the tip.
Hunting knife: This knife would be built to excel at cutting and slicing meat therefore is not warrantied for batoning
or prying.
“Batoning” is assumed to be done with a wooden baton. It does not include rock, metal, a hammer or your axe or
hatchet.
“Making defects” include any blade, tip or edge breakage due to use as intended. It does not include breakage of the
handle from hitting a pommel that does not have a pommel plate. It also does not include eventual epoxy failure (if it should
happen. I‘ve never personally seen that happen.) after years of service. I will replace any epoxy failures within the first six
months of ownership at my expense not including your shipping to me.
Making defects also does not include any shrinking, cracking or expanding of natural handle materials, this is beyond my
control.
If , when you receive your new knife or piece of gear, you are not satisfied please contact me within ten days of
receiving it. I will refund your full amount for the return of the knife (or piece of gear) in unused condition.
A word about handle materials:
I can use pretty much anything you might want for a handle, whether it be micarta, g10 or stabilized woods.
Please see pages 27 through 30 for micarta and g10 options as well as other handle options.
If you do choose stabilized wood, natural wood, antler or whatever I don’t stock then you may purchase it yourself
and send it to me to put on your knife. If you do decide to send in your handle material you should do so with the
understanding that you send it at your own risk should it have internal voids, external voids or be damaged during
construction of the knife making the material unusable. I hope you understand I can not afford to replace expensive handle
material that I did not choose to put on the knife myself. If it were up to me every full tang knife would have micarta or g10
and every hidden tang would have leather, micarta or g10. All of which I will replace at my own cost if damaged during
construction.
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Grind information
All of the grinds described are convex:
All comparisons are assumed to be equal in the below examples. I.e. grinds are compared assuming the steel, thickness and
pattern of the knife are the same. The only difference being the grind.
½ height grind:
Advantages:
Has more strength at the edge and point than a full height grind or varied grind. The tip is plenty strong for drilling. It’s also a
far, far better slicer than the ¼ height grind. But still not great.
Disadvantages:
It’s sort of in the middle of everything. Not great at any one task but not bad either. I would say that I believe it’s the toughest
of the practical grinds and that’s it’s best asset. Practical meaning useful as a knife, unlike the ¼ height grind.
Full height grind
Advantages:
This grind is an amazing slicer. The best choice for a skinning/game knife bar none. It takes a scary sharp edge so easily that
it’s a great grind to learn convex sharpening with. Combining it’s geometry and thinness at the edge, the full height is the
epitome of wicked sharp. The full height in most cases is what I consider the best overall grind for a do it all belt knife. It is
perfectly tough enough at the edge even in thinner 1/8” stock for even hard use.
(This is the grind that I almost always use on my personal knives)
Disadvantages:
Depending on the profile of the knife a full height grind can have a weak tip. That weakness becomes greater when you get
thinner stock. But with a little common sense drilling with the tip is no problem at all. And if you never pry with it it should
do just fine also in thinner stock and narrow (pointy tip) patterns.
After years of using full height grind knives in the woods I can honestly say that is the only weakness I know of.
Varied grind
Advantages:
The low grind height near the ricasso area is very much like the ¼ to ½ height ground scandi knives. Meaning it’s super
strong and it’s perfect for those coming over from a Scandi knife background. This is an advantage in a woods knife as much
of the notching and shaving work is done right in this spot. It gives Scandi users a similar feel to what they are used to in that
low height area and it gives them better cutting ability toward the tip than they are accustomed to with the standard scandi
grind. The tip with it’s full height characteristics excels at slicing when shaving off extra wood or slicing potatoes and the like.
Disadvantages:
The tip is not very strong when used with certain patterns of knives. It has the same characteristics as full height grind talked
about earlier.
You also loose slicing ability when using the middle of the knife and the area in front of the plunge line because they are of
low height.
Reverse varied grind +$40.00 on larger knives. No charge on knives under six inches, available for order but not
recommend for that size.
Advantages:
The idea of the grind is that for large chopping knives it gives you lots of strength toward the tip where most of the chopping
will be done. The part of the edge near the handle rarely gets used with large choppers.
With a near full height grind in this spot it is possible to use it for finer work like shaving feathers for a fire making or for
using as a draw knife. This grind makes a chopper twice as useful without sacrificing chopping ability.
Disadvantages:
You don’t get the extreme cutting ability or “bite” at the tip that some like. As with most everything in knife making it’s a
trade off. For the benefit of increased toughness you sacrifice some of the deep cutting ability at the tip.
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Selecting a knife for your needs
A few general “rules” to consider, as stated earlier everything in knife making (as in life) is a trade off. When
strength increases cutting ability decreases, when edge holding increases edge toughness decreases etc.
Generally speaking, the wider the knife and the taller the grind then the weaker the tip will be. This is due to natural
taper (called distal taper) that occurs when hand grinding a knife. It depends on the pattern of course, blunter tips obviously
won’t be as likely to be weak. But if you choose a wide (tall) knife profile , a sharp point profile, thin steel and a high grind it
will be an amazing slicer but will have an extremely weak tip. Imagine a large pointed tip kitchen knife.
Conversely, if you choose a blunter nosed pattern with a low grind and thicker steel it will be tougher than nails but be a
pretty horrible slicer. Imagine a sharpened pry bar.
Somewhere between these to extremes is probably where most people want to be.
Thickness of steel has very little to do with edge strength which is the assumption of many people. My 1/8” o-1 knives with
full height grinds are just as tough at the edge as a ¼ height grind with 3/16” steel when used for woods work. Where the
difference matters in thickness is in prying ability. Not so much that one will break before the other (assuming the both have
the same heat treat) but because of loss of prying ability due to flex. Thinner steel will likely flex more than thicker steel
which will cause a loss of some prying energy. So thicker steel , in my opinion, is just for rigidity when used for prying and
for weight in a chopping knife if so desired.
As always, if you have any questions whatsoever please don’t hesitate to ask. I’d love to answer them if I can so that
I can get you just the right knife for your needs or wants.
Odds and ends
I generally use o-1 and 5160 steels. The type of steel I use will be determined by the knife you choose and the tasks you
intend it to perform.
The only stainless I offer is 154cm and it’s only available in knives with blades 6” and under.
Sheaths made by me are not available at this time, the wait list is just too long to justify taking the time to make them
right now. This is likely to change once I complete the wait list. I will probably offer sheaths made by me at that time.
Jre sheaths are available for purchase from me, please inquire as to which models I have sheaths for at the time of making.
Thank you kindly for your interest in Turley knives and Woodsman gear. I hope to work with you on some future
project, Lord willing.
God bless,
Iz
Israel Turley
Romans 10:9
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Model # 1 Gasconade River woodsman’s knife
Base Price: $220.00 - includes a micarta handle
Blade Length: @ 4 1/4"
Thickness: 1/8" to 1/4"
Handle Length: @ 4 1/4"
Grind: Convex of your choice
Tang: Full
The model 1 is the fruit of lessons learned projects in the woods. As my wife knows all too well, if I'm not in the shop I'm
probably in the woods so this design was inevitable for me.
It features a very severe drop point that falls to just below the center of the blade. This serves three purposes, it
allows for easier drilling with the tip, allows for an easier time gutting and allows you to
split wood with the tip edge.
In order to get this massive drop and still have a straight cutting edge I had to compensate by lowering the rest of
the knife. It's actually a very comfortable knife to use because of the drop.
This knife and the Green river are pretty much the culmination of my own woods experience and
reflect best how I use a knife. You’ll see this design element in almost all of my knives.
The knife on the left features a full height grind, heat treat scale left on the flats of the blade,
Black g10 handle scales, stainless steel sandwich spacers, black g10 tang spacers, stainless steel
Pins and an optional steel pommel plate.
The knife on the right features a full height grind, heat treat scales left on the flats, maroon linen micarta scales, 1/8”
natural canvas micarta spacers and 1/8” brown g10 pins.
Options available: Pretty much anything. A hidden tang version is also available.
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Model # 2 Missouri River
Base price: $330.00 with micarta handle and any grind besides the reverse varied convex. It is an extra option.
Blade Length: @ 8 1/2"
Thickness: 3/16" to 1/4"
Handle Length: @ 4 3/4"
Grind: Convex of your choice
Tang: Full
The Missouri is for all you big knife fans out there. It's what I would classify as a large knife or small chopper.
The design elements for the big muddy come from The Gasconade Bushcraft knife in that it has a huge sweep downward
toward the tip.
Combined with the downward sweep of the handle the Missouri is a chopping beast. The edge as you'll notice has been
dropped down with the point to keep it straight for ease of sharpening instead of making it a re-curve.
The balance point is forward of the front of the scales for more chopping power and less fatigue for the user. The Missouri is
good for batoning larger sections of wood and busting up firewood for a cold night.
The knife on the left is shown with a reverse varied convex grind, heat treat scale left on the flats,
Earth/coyote brown g10 handle scales, brass pins and brass lanyard.
The knife on the right is shown with a half height grind, stabilized buckeye burl scales, 1/8” maroon micarta spacers
and 1/8” brown g10 pins.
Options available: Pretty much anything. A hidden tang version is also available. If you
choose to send in handle material for this model please ask for measurements first. This knife
has a larger handle and not all handle materials will fit it.
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Model # 3 Mississippi River
Base price: $270.00 with micarta handle
Blade length: @ 6 1/2"
Handle length: @ 4 3/4"
Thickness available: 3/16” to ¼”
The Model 3 started out life in an unusual way, at least it was unusual for me. A generous friend of mine asked if I'd
like a piece of 5160 that he had laying around, I said "sure, I'll use it". He told me that it was already in the shape of a knife
blank and to do with it what I liked. When it got here it had a big
finger guard, a very straight blade and a funky lanyard hole at the pommel.
So I drew my template on the pattern and made it my own. I dropped the point considerably, did away with the "guard"
and the squared pommel. What came out was the Mississippi.
When I completed it I originally thought I'd only make it the one time but I had enough interest in the knife that I made it
part of the regular line.
As for purpose: The Model 3 fits in between the Green river and the Missouri in size. It works well for people who like bigger
knives for their main woods knife.
**Newer version on the right above. Slight design change has been applied.**
The knife on the left is shown with a ¾ height grind, caramel linen micarta scales, thin black spacers, 3/16” brass pins and a
lanyard.
The knife on the right is shown with a varied grind, black g10 scales, 3/16” stainless steel pins and a lanyard.
Options available: Pretty much anything. A hidden tang version is also available.
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Model # 4 Green River woodsman’s knife
Base price with pommel plate and micarta handle: $330.00 Base price without pommel plate and micarta
handle: $220.00
Blade length: @ 4 3/4"
Handle length: @ 4 1/8"
Thickness available: 5/32” through 3/16”
The Green River is a special knife to me, it's the culmination of my woods time up to this point in my life. It is born
out of the Gasconade, a knife that is very close to my idea of what a woodsman's knife should be. After using the Gasconade
heavily for a while there were a few small adjustments that I thought could be made to make the knife that much better. That's
where the Green River comes in.
Through hard woods use of the Gasconade I came to the conclusion that some might like a slightly longer blade for busting
through bigger sections of wood. The biggest upgrade though comes in the form of a standard pommel plate. I'm too hard on
my knives and often times I beat the pommel area with a large stick in order to drive the tip into wood to split it down to small
sections. I've already cracked the micarta scales on another knife doing this and my Gasconade's handle is separating due to
the abuse. The pommel plate
on the Green River takes care of that problem entirely.
This knife, being that it is my idea of what a hard woods knife should be, will have limited options available. There are
certain things that it will always come with and certain things that it will never come with. I've poured a lot of dirt time and
sweat into this design and I'm pleased with it and the Gasconade more than just about any other knives I've done. I'm
extremely happy with it and I think you will be , too.
For more specifics on why the general shape is the way it is you can check out the write up on
the Model 1 Gasconade.
Just about everything on these two knives is there for a reason which comes from actually using what I make and using it
often.
The knife on the left is shown with a varied convex grind, black g10 scales, orange g10 sandwich spacers, stainless
steel pins and a steel pommel plate.
The knife on the right is shown with a near full height convex grind, black g10 scales, 1/8” maroon micarta spacers,
stainless steel pins and steel pommel plate.
Options available include pretty much anything except a ¼ height grind is not available on the Model 4. The Green river
comes standard with a pommel plate but can be ordered without one. Hidden tang
Version also available.
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Model # 5 Z-sere S.E.R.E. Specialist knife
Base price with micarta handle and without the reverse varied grind: $475.00
Blade length @ 11 1/4" including finger cutout
Handle length @ 5 1/4"
Thickness and material available: ¼” 5160 spring steel
The Generation one Z-sere was for a time the official U.S. Air Force Sere specialist graduation knife.
The z-sere has been a couple years in the making and it is inspired by a man named Paul Zinsmeister.
Mr. Zinsmeister was an Air Force survival instructor and custom knife maker before his untimely death.
I first heard of Paul through my friend Terry Barney who was an instructor at the same time Paul was.
Terry had one of Paul’s big bolo knives that he specialized in and I became enamored with that knife.
It is one of the finest crafted large knives I've ever seen, Paul Zinsmeister was a master knife maker,
his knives are extremely difficult to come by and command a healthy price (rightfully so) when they do
pop up for sale. So the next best thing for me to do was to make one since I couldn't find one to buy.
That's where the z-sere was born.
The generation one z-sere looked pretty close in design to Paul's pattern.
Making the generation one knife was a lesson to me in just how skilled a knife maker Paul was.
This style knife isn't easy to grind, at least for me it isn't. So combined with the difficulty of making
them and the difficulty for the customer to sharpen this blade shape I modified it to the pattern you see
in the pictures above. That is the z-sere generation 2 pattern.
It's just a good a chopper as the generation 1 but it's easier to sharpen and easier for me to make without pulling my
hair out. If you're a big knife fan you won't be disappointed with this one. This is a knife with lots of history behind it and it is
my way of trying to carry on a man's work who was taken from us before he could really shine in the knife world.
Options available: Pretty much anything. If you choose to send in handle material for this model please ask for
measurements first. This knife has a larger handle and most natural handle materials won‘t fit it.
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Model # 6 Brush Creek bushcraft knife
Base price: $220.00 with a micarta handle
Blade length: @ 4 1/8"
Handle length: 4"
Grind: Convex of your choice
Thickness available: 1/8” through ¼”
The Brush creek is similar to the Dogwood in that I wanted a sort of utility knife, one that was good not
only at wood work but also good as a hunting knife.
It incorporates the severe drop point and all it's benefits combined with a wider blade with some belly up
front for gutting and skinning. If the Dogwood creek is 60% hunting knife and 40% woods knife (which it is) then the Brush
creek is a more balanced 50% hunting knife and 50% woods knife.
With the gutting task in mind (reaching into the body cavity full of blood) I made the handle more secure
by giving the Brush creek a wider blade that forms a sort of guard. That keeps your hand from slipping up as easily when the
knife is bloody. This is a great all around, do it all sort of pattern.
The knife on the left is shown with a varied convex grind, heat treat scale left on the flats, black canvas
Micarta scales and stainless steel pins.
Options available: Pretty much anything. A hidden tang version is available.
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Model # 7 Moniteau Creek Bushcraft knife
Base price: $330.00 depending on handle options
Blade length @ 5"
Handle length @ 4 1/4"
Hidden tang
Grind: Convex of your choice
Thickness available: 1/8” through ¼” depending on handle options
The model 7 is in my opinion a good all around utility knife. It's got the characteristic drop point of most
of my knives which is good for gutting and drilling a hearth board. It also has a nice wide blade that gives
it some belly that it wouldn't normally have due to the severe drop in the blade. In 3/16” stock with
a full height grind this thing would be a scary sharp laser beam of a knife and tough too boot.
If you're looking for a heavy duty hidden tang in the right combination of options, this knife is it.
Knife above shown with a varied convex grind, natural micarta reduced guard, dark brown micarta
center piece and a natural micarta pommel.
Options available: Pretty much whatever you can think up to stack on a handle, if I can use it I will.
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Model # 8 Burris Fork woods knife
Base price: $220.00 with a micarta handle
Blade length @ 4 1/4"
Handle length @ 4 1/4"
Full tang
Thickness available: 1/8” through ¼”
The Burris fork is kind of an answer to a lighter more nimble knife that has a more traditional look of some
of the old hunting knife patterns. I combined the profile of the old hunters with my sort of signature severe
drop point design. It's a neat little knife to use and is a wicked cutter when it has a full height grind.
The handle is a little bit narrower than most of the other models so this one is more suited to those of us who have smaller
hands.
The knife above is shown with a ¾ height convex grind, heat treat scale left on the flats, black
g10 scales, yellow sandwich spacers, black g10 tang spacers, stainless steel pins and an optional
yellow g10 pommel plate.
Options available: Pretty much anything. A hidden tang version is also available.
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Model # 9 Arghandab River last ditch knife
Base price: $200.00 with a micarta handle
Blade length @ 3 1/8"
Overall length @ 6 5/8"
Full tang
Thickness available: 1/8” through 3/16”
The Model 9 Arghandab River is what came of a request for a last ditch knife by a friend of mine.
He's a Green Beret with third group whose had multiple tours in the combat zone. He wanted a small
version of the Gasconade River to have on him at all times in case he had to ditch the rest of his
gear while evading the enemy.
In honor of him and what he does for our country I let him name the knife. He chose the name Arghandab
river due to the fact that he operated in and around the river during one of his tours in Afghanistan.
I'm proud to offer this knife due to the history behind it and the personal connection it has.
Plus it's pretty dang useful and good looking if I do say so myself.
P.S. This is a neck knife sized knife.
The knife on the left is shown with a 3/4 convex grind, heat treat scale left on the flats, caramel linen
micarta scales, 1/8" natural canvas micarta spacers and 1/8" brown g10 pins.
The knife on the right is shown with a varied convex grind, stabilized spalted maple burl scales and 1/8” carbon fiber
pins.
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Model # 10 Haw Creek chisel knife
Base price: $330.00 with a micarta handle
Blade length: @ 4 1/2"
Handle length: @ 4 1/4"
Full tang
Thickness available: 5/32” through ¼”
I'm sure it's obvious that the Haw Creek takes it's influence from Japanese blades. I watched a video of a Japanese gentleman
who was carving a sculpture using what looked like a meat cleaver that had a sharpened chisel like point. He was a master
with it and it struck a cord in me watching him use it so well. I'm no carver that's for sure but I have used a chisel quite a bit in
my life for various wood working and carpentry projects I've done. I saw immediately how handy something with a sharp flat
"tip"
would be in the woods. I could imagine how nice it would be to use to make square joints for shelters and camp furniture , for
notching for traps and friction fire boards etc. So I made one and the Haw Creek is what it looks like.
It differs from a true chisel in that the front edge is double sided where as a chisel is single sided. I didn't see any need to limit
the knife to a one sided grind as I don't need that much control and accuracy with my cuts in the woods. This knife isn't what
you'd call a game or camp knife since it' has no tip. It would be pretty horrible at gutting and skinning. But paired with a
smaller neck sized knife that would be used for gutting and skinning the Haw creek could be one invaluable tool in the woods.
I really enjoyed using this knife and want to make another one for myself soon.
The Haw creek comes standard with a pommel plate and is unavailable without one. A hidden tang
version is available.
The above knife is shown with Caramel linen micarta scales, dark brown canvas micarta pommel plate, stainless steel
pins.
Due to the nature of the knife this is the only grind it is available with. Handle options are pretty
much unlimited however. Future models will likely have an integrated lower guard.
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Model # 11 Moon Creek
Base price: $220.00 with a micarta handle
Blade length: @ 4"
Handle length: @ 4"
Full tang
Thickness available: 1/8” through ¼”
The Moon Creek was an experiment to see just how far I could push the drop of a knife pattern.
I kept the blade similar to the drop of most of the other models but gave the handle a lot more drop than anything I've ever
done before. After using it some I figured out a few things. It is really comfortable to use, probably the most comfortable
handle I've ever used.
The blade works well but not any better or worse than knives in the Gasconade family. A pommel plate on this knife is a bad
idea, I found that out after I made the prototype with one on it. The handle has too much drop in the pommel area to make the
pommel plate an effective striking surface. You're striking on an
angle instead of a flat spot. The last thing I learned is that if the knife were dropped anymore than this it would probably lose
most of it's usefulness, there's no reason to go any farther. This is the stopping point in my mind.
My conclusion: Extremely comfortable knife to use for those of us with smaller hands. Does every woods task you need it to
for a knife without a pommel plate.
The knife above is shown with a varied convex grind, heat treat scale left on the flats, dark brown
Canvas micarta scales, 1/8” natural canvas micarta spacers and brass pins.
Options available: Pretty much anything as far as handles and grind are concerned. The options
not available are a pommel plate and no hidden tang version.
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Model # 12 Kunar River light knife
Base price: $220.00 with a micarta handle
Blade length: @ 3 7/8"
Handle length: @ 4 1/2"
Available in 1/8" thick stock only
Full tang
The Kunar river came about once again from my buddy with 3rd group. He was in the higher elevations
on his last deployment and needed a light (higher elevation equals less oxygen) yet tough knife and
so I came up with the model 12. The Kunar comes standard in 1/8" stock with a full height grind , lanyard tubes for pins and
no pommel plate to keep it as light as possible. The blade has the severe drop characteristics of my designs and you can check
out the reasons for that if you read the information on the Model 1 Gasconade river.
It also has the bull nose tip for strength which is still enough tip to use for drilling divots and gutting game.
The true light combat version has thin carbon fiber scales which are not available at this time but you can get it with
standard thickness scales and in whatever handle material you like. It's still a light knife even with heavier scale material on it.
This knife is as good at woodcraft tasks as it is at combat duty.
The Kunar River runs through the area where my friend was for most of his last deployment in Afghanistan. With no
pommel plate you have to get used to working around the problems that presents if you're used to using one. You can check
out the on the Turley Knives youtube channel to see a few techniques and to see just how tough 1/8" o-1 can be even in a full
height grind.
The knife above is shown with a full height convex grind, heat treat scale left on the flats, carbon
fiber scales and stainless steel lanyard tubes for pins.
Options available: Pretty much only handle material is an option on this one. It’s made specifically to
be light so the thickness and grind are not changeable. Carbon fiber scales are not an option at this time.
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Model # 13 TimberJack
Base price: $330.00 with a micarta handle
Blade length: @ 4 1/8"
Handle length: 4 ½“"
Grind: Convex of your choice
Thickness available: 1/8” through ¼”
The Timberjack is a model #6 blade with a handle shape inspired by the Randall commando style and the Leuku
Sami knife. I thought the handle style looked comfortable and seemed like it
would give the user and good grip on the knife. It does both pretty good. This knife is not available
without a pommel plate.
The knife above is shown with a 3/4 height convex grind, Wenge scales, 1/8" Padauk spacers,
brass pommel plate, brass lanyard tubes with copper pin inserts. This pin setup is not available for
order.
Options available: Pretty much any handle material as long as I can make it with the pommel
plate.
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Model # 14 Thunderbolt Jet pilot survival knife
Base price with nickel silver guard, saw teeth spine and stacked leather handle $310.00
(standard with saw back spine, available without teeth upon request. No price reduction)
*Will always have red, white and blue spacers. No exceptions.*
Blade length @ 4 5/8”
Handle length @ 4 ½”
Grind: Convex of your choice
Thickness available: only 3/16” at this time
This knife is based off of the Jet pilot survival knife that Marble’s designed for the Bureau of
Aeronautics, Department of the Navy beginning in 1953. At least that’s when talks and the designing
of the knife began. Unfortunately after designing the knife and agreeing to reveal their manufacturing
process to others for use Marble’s was exempt from bidding on the making of the knife for the
Navy. The government had decided to only allow smaller companies too bid and Camillus won
the contract.
As with some of my other knives this one takes it’s inspiration from the past. I try to put my own spin
on projects like this so that it is a homage instead of a direct copy. I also try to incorporate what I think
is useful in the design and drop what I feel isn’t. With that in mind the handle of the Model 14 is
A pretty close copy of the original but the blade is totally different. It is a Model 4 Green river blade
That is mated to the handle. I figure I like this blade style better than the traditional straight back
clip point design so that’s what I put on it.
Pilot rescue and survival is something that means a lot too me and I wanted to honor those who put
their lives on the line to make that happen.
Knife above shown with nickel silver guard, stacked leather handle, no saw teeth.
Options available: Saw teeth is standard but can be requested without them. Wood, Micarta or g10 can be used in
place of stacked leather as long as material is available in the correct dimensions.
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Model # 15 Air Assault Survival knife
Base price with saw teeth spine and stainless steel, knurled hollow handle $350.00
(standard with saw back spine, available without teeth upon request. No price reduction)
Blade length *available with any model blade six inches and under*
Handle length @ 5”
Grind: Convex of your choice
Thickness available: only 3/16” at this time
The Air Assault takes it’s inspiration from the Randall knives model 18 attack. The Randall
knife was a joint design between Captain George Ingraham, Bo Randall and Gary Randall. Captain
Ingraham was a Ch-21c helicopter pilot serving in the Vietnam war at the time of his request for
the knife. Every thing about the knife was, at least in Captain Ingraham’s assessment, was geared
for helicopter pilots and crew members needs. I’ve tried to stay faithful to those designs while
still incorporating my own design.
I highly respect our rotary wing pilots and crew members who risk their lives to supply, insert
and evacuate our combat troops, so this knife is dedicated to them. It features a stainless steel
knurled hollow handle for items of your choosing, be it medication, water purification tabs etc.
It comes with a gold paracord wrap because that’s the way the Bo Randall did his lanyards for a while and who
am I to change what a legend did?
Don’t let people tell you that all hollow handle survival knives are weak like the ones they remember
that were sold in chain stores in the 1980’s. This is not that kind of knife, I guarantee it to be
absolutely tough enough for anything you can throw at it in the woods.
The knife is named in honor of all helicopter borne assault troops as well as the pilots and
Crew members. God bless them and keep them safe.
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Model # 16 Recondo Bolo
Base price : $350.00
Blade length @ 11 1/2”
Handle length @ 5 ¼“”
Grind: half height convex (this knife has no grind choice option) future knives will not have a completely black blade
Thickness available: only 3/16” at this time
Spacer note: The model 16 always comes with thin red, yellow and black spacers. This cannot be changed.
I use a machete/bolo pretty often, all spring, summer and into the fall a bit. I find it one of the
handiest designs there is for how I camp. In all that use however I noticed that I very rarely used the tip of
a big knife for anything. I decided to make a machete that I could use to dig with if I had
forgotten my shovel, if I was in a hurry or for small quick work. I remembered seeing a U.S.M.C.
round tip bolo that was used during ww2 and thought I’d make a version of that with my design
influence thrown in. What I drew out looked almost exactly like the knife pictured above.
A few days later I stumbled onto an eBay auction for what looked almost exactly like the knife
I had drawn out just a few days before. I’d never seen one before that point and I liked what I saw a lot.
The knife in the auction was a C.I.S.O. ( counterinsurgency support office) supplied S.O.G.
(studies and observation group) bolo that was used by American Special Forces soldiers while
running recon missions in Laos and Cambodia. Then and there I knew this was the knife I wanted to make
so that I could do my small part to honor those veterans who did such a difficult, dangerous and vital job
during the Vietnam war.
In honor of 5th Special Forces group I have named this knife the Recondo bolo. 5th group
hosted the Recondo (Recon and Commando) school and trained members from all services in the
skill of reconnaissance and commando tactics in Nha Trang Vietnam from 1966 to 1970.
This bolo also comes with only one style of spacers which are the flash colors of 5th group during
the Vietnam war.
The tip and back of the knife are left nearly dead soft for toughness while the edge is full
hardness. The knife is meant to be used to do light digging with and inevitably it will hit rocks. With
that in mind I left the tip soft so that it would bend rather than chip. I’d rather have the edge bend so
I can beat it back straight instead of chip and have to grind it out.
This is the knife I will use around camp and tromping through the woods. I hope you like it as much
as I do.
Options available: Only handle material and pin type.
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Model #17 All American Victory Knife
Base price $400.00
Blade length: @ 6 1/8"
Handle length: @ 4 1/2"
Thickness available: 3/16"
*Will always have red, white and blue spacers. No exceptions.*
This is the All American Victory knife, so named to honor all those Americans who gave their time, energy and lives to
liberate the oppressed during World War two.
The All American is a blend of three knife designs. The first is the Randall model 1 all purpose fighter. That knife was pretty
much born during ww2 and with it the Randall legend was as well. As I'm sure you know, Randall knives has held my respect
for many years and is a great influence on the knives I make at times. Therefore it was a natural thing for me to want to honor
the model 1 all purpose fighter that so many American combat men carried during the war. This is why the knife has the
characteristic Randall finger cut out (choil) at the spine and edge.
The second knife is the E.G.W. knife that was popular among combat servicemen during the war. Made by E.G. Waterman of
New York this knife featured hidden tang handles that were held on by a ring at the pommel. An American classic if you ask
me.
The third design element comes from my characteristic drop on the knives I make. I try to make each knife that is
influenced from other sources a unique design and by incorporating what I feel is useful in a knife I think I achieve that. I
don't like directly copying someone's work even if it is near perfect in my eyes.
I sincerely feel this is a decent all around knife for woods work and to be used as a combat utility knife. It isn't ideal
for all things or any one thing but overall it will do a fine job.
God bless our veterans, troops, those who answered the call and those who gave all. You're the best of us and I thank
you for the freedom you gave me and my family
Options available: Pretty much anything that is available on other hidden tangs. I.e. stacked leather, wood, etc.
**slight design change coming soon. Please see website for any updates**
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Model # 18 Raider Machete
Base price : $350.00
Blade length @ 9 1/2”
Handle length @ 5 1/8”
Grind: ½ height convex with false top edge (this knife has no grind choice option)
Thickness available: only ¼ “ and 3/16” at this time
Anybody who is into knives and knife collecting knows what the Marine Raider (or Gung ho) knife is, the model 17
is my version. It is pretty close to the original in basic design except I made it a drop point instead of a clip point and I did
away with the guard. Other wise (except for changing the handle shape) the Model 17 is essentially the same pattern as the old
Collins knives.
You probably noticed that this knife is called the Raider machete and not the Raider bowie. That, of course is
intentional. I wanted to honor both the Marine Raiders who so successfully used this knife and honor the U.S. Army Air Force
pilots who used this knife before the raiders themselves. Hence the machete part of the name because that is what Collins
made it to be. The original intent was not as a fighting knife but a bail out survival knife issued to pilots in the early part of the
war. And by most accounts this is also what the Raiders used their bowies for. Same knife, different name but used in the
same way.
The only difference was that the Raiders depended on their knives almost daily while behind enemy lines where as a pilot may
never (thankfully) have the chance to use his when it counted most.
In my opinion, those who say that a big knife is for a novice, someone who doesn’t know what they are doing in the
woods, should study the Marine Raider knife and it’s actual use by those men who made it famous. From all accounts I have
read it was used mostly as a survival tool, not a fighting knife and they used it well. Everything from cutting poles for
stretchers to clearing fire lanes and from building shelters to building split wood fires.
From John Wukovits’ book American Commando comes an interesting quote. Former Marine Raider Jesse Vanlandingham
states “I had to find a dead tree that I could cut through the outer part, that was wet, and get some dry wood out of the center
of the tree. I had a pretty good fire going right next to a tall tree shelter.” Granted, he doesn’t say he used his Raider knife but
I’m guessing that’s likely what he had with him and what he used. I’ve read more than one report of how useful and handy the
Raiders thought these knives were. That’s good enough for me.
Knife above features a varied convex grind (not available for order) o.d. green canvas micarta scales, 3/16” copper
pins.
Options available: Only handle material and pin type.
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Model # 19 Paramarine knife
Base price : $310.00
Blade length @ 3 ¾“”
Handle length @ 4 1/8”
Choice of brass or nickel silver guard
Grind: Varied, half height or full height convex
Thickness available: 1/8” (half height grind or full height only) 5/32” and 3/16”
The Paramarines were a little known outfit who were active during the early part of WW2. Although they never
made a combat jump they were well trained and elite. You may know the name of one famous Paramarine, Ira Hayes. Hayes
was one of the Marines who posed for the second photo of the flag raising on Iwo Jima.
The Model 18 is my version of the Paramarine (or parachutist) knife made by Western for the Paramarines. The
model W31 as it was known, was made specifically for the Marine paratroopers.
It had about a 4 ¼” blade and was made of thin 3/32” stock and if you’re lucky enough to find one today you’ll likely pay a
pretty penny for it.
My version has the signature drop of the overall blade that I usually like and it is a full tang where as the original was
Western’s famous split full tang. I also shortened the blade since I wanted a more compact version. There’s also an influence
from the Randall fireman’s special knife here. I really like that knife, especially the guard on the full tang which makes it fun
and very safe to use while not getting in the way.
This is a fun and handy little knife, pretty great for any woodsman tasks that you’d use a belt knife for.
Knife shown features a varied convex grind, nickel silver guard, red linen micarta scales and 3/16” stainless steel pins.
Options available: Choice of nickel silver or brass guard. And pretty much any other option except no pommel plate and only
a half or full height grind on 1/8” stock. In any other stock thickness the varied grind is available.
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Model # 20 Dogface knife
Base price : $310.00
Blade length @ 4 5/8”
Handle length @ 4 1/8” to 4 ¼”
Choice of brass or nickel silver guard and pommel
Grind: Varied, half height or full height convex
Thickness available: 1/8” (half height grind or full height only) 5/32” and 3/16”
Dogface: A self imposed term used by combat soldiers, especially during world war two. Combat soldiers wear dog tags, slept
in pup tents and dug foxholes. Add to that the fact that they were ordered around like dogs and have a life most people
wouldn’t give to their family pets today and you can see how the term was derived. Only if you’ve ever done it (in war or
peace time. Although war makes it much, much worse) can you fully understand just how much it truly is a dog’s life,
sometimes less than a dog’s life. And the amazing thing is that in today’s Army these fine men do it voluntarily. God bless
each and every one.
The dogface is a mix of two knives. The base design is from the Gasconade river with influence from the classic jet
pilot’s knife. If , like me, you enjoy the original j.p.k. I think you’ll be pleased with the mix of my style of bushcraft knife with
the old classic.
The particular knife shown above features Randall style saw teeth and a theater style handle. The Dogface is
available with any style handle from stacked leather to micarta to stag. Comes standard with no saw teeth. A full tang version
is available also with a base price of $220.00
Options available: Pretty much anything
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Model # 21 Boonie Knife
Base price : $220.00
Blade length @ 4 1/2”
Handle length @ 4 ½”
Grind: Varied, half height, half height with false top edge, half height with sharp top edge or full height convex
Thickness available: 1/8” (varied grind not available on 1/8“) 5/32” ,3/16” and ¼”
Boonies: Remote area, Boondocks. Used by L.R.R.P.s and other specialized combat troops in Vietnam to refer to hostile,
rural areas of operation. Also called Indian country.
For those of you that remember the Dogwood Creek knife the new Boonie knife will look familiar. It is the Dogwood
with more edge drop than before, more of a clip point and the slight spine hump that the early Randall model 15’s had. The
handle is very similar to the old Dogwood but slightly longer.
Standard with the grind shown above (half height with false top edge) but also available with a sharp top edge or any
other grind I offer in this size knife.
Knife above features an optional skull embedded in the handle scales, not standard with this model.
Options available: pretty much anything including a hidden tang version
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Model # 22 Wood Wisp
Base price : $310.00
Blade length @ 4 1/8”
Handle length @ 4 5/8”
Choice of brass or nickel silver guard
Grind: No option. Comes with only the grind shown above
Thickness available: 5/32” and 3/16”
I made the wood wisp for all of you that like a narrower blade, especially in the tip area. I don’t prefer knives with
exceptionally pointy tips so I have avoided making something like this for a while. I find the tips (no matter how well heat
treated) that come to an acute point are prone to break, especially with a high grind and thin steel. To counter that problem I
grind this model thicker at the tip than most but still thin enough to cut well. You can see in the picture above that the edge
has a beefier secondary at the tip. This is because the grind is thicker on the whole front of the knife.
Even still, this knife is not made for prying an twisting g wood apart like most of my other knives are. It is made for
hard use yes (like batoning) but no more than light prying should be done with it if you want to keep the tip intact. If that’s a
concern then please look at the numerous other models I offer that have much tougher tips.
The Wood Wisp is made for those of you that like to make tight turns with the tip of the knife while carving wood.
Options available: This knife only comes with the one grind shown above. Other than that pretty much anything else is
available.
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Options available
Some handle material examples:
Micarta: A manmade handle material made of resins and fabric or paper. Extremely tough. This
or G1 are in my opinion the best choice for a hard use knife.
Colors available: I keep on hand standard colors in Micarta. These are usually always available
for any size knife.
O.d. Green canvas micarta
Natural canvas (varies in color)
O.d green linen (smoother appearance than the o.d. canvas)
Caramel linen
I can get other colors as well such as Maroon, red linen, forest green etc but I don’t stock them normally.
So If you’d like something else please let me know or send it to me to put on the knife .
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G10 handle material +$10.00: G10 is similar to micarta but instead of fabric laminated it is
fiberglass that is laminated with resins. Extremely tough and slightly heavier than micarta.
Available in a wider variety of colors than micarta generally speaking.
Black
Jade ghost green
I also stock o.d. green g10 which is a truer color to o.d. than the micartas are.
Just about any color under the son is made in g10. If you’d like something different than the above
just let me know. I can order it or you can order it and have it sent to me.
Pin material
At this time I have several pin materials and colors available to choose from.
In addition to standard stainless steel and brass pins in 1/8” and 3/16” I have the following pins:
Pictured left to right: ¼” yellow delrin, ¼” white g10, ¼” red delrin, ¼ black micarta, ¼” blue delrin,
¼” jade g10, ¼” brown g10, 1/8” jade g10, 1/8” black carbon fiber and 1/8” brown g10
All colored pins are a +$20.00 option
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Spacer options:
Thin spacers +$15.00 several colors available. (black shown)
1/8” spacers + $20.00 Several colors available (orange shown)
Sandwich spacers + $25.00 Several colors available (white shown) Note the spacer nearest
the tang (tang spacer) is green. Any color combination is available, just let me know what color tang
spacer you want when you tell me what color sandwich spacer you would like.
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Hidden tang handle options
There are many materials available for hidden tang handles. From leather to bark to wood
to micarta and g10 etc. I can do most any of these but please note that spacers might be needed for
construction reasons. We can go over all of that when you decide to order.
Guards and pommels are available in brass, nickel silver, micarta and g10. Stag pommels are also available.
As for spacers, pretty much any of the spacer and handle material above will work as spacers for a hidden tang. The knife
shown below has a stacked leather handle with stainless steel and red spacers.
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Other options
Pommel plates on full tangs +$150.00: Standard on Model 4 Green River, Model 10 Haw creek and the model 13
Timberjack (included in base price) but available on many other patterns. Can be made from Steel, brass, micarta or g10.
Micarta and g10 both hold up well to continued hard use. Pommel plates are made to be struck with a wooden baton or stick
not with metal or rock.
Standard triangular aw teeth +$50.00 on knives under six inches, +$70.00 on knives six inches and over.
Randall style teeth (with a top grind) +$50.00 on knives under six inches, +$70.00 knives six inches and over.
Pyramid style saw teeth +$70.00 on knives under six inches, not available on knives six inches and over
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Saw teeth available on most models. Please inquire. A word about saw teeth. There are many misconceptions and
prejudices out there concerning saw teeth. The misconceptions seem to be that they are worthless for cutting wood and/or that
they are made for sawing through aircraft skin. I can attest that no knife I’ve seen with saw
Teeth, including mine, will saw through a stick of wood like a true saw will. Saws have set teeth and create a gap (curf) for the
rest of the blade to pass through without binding. It’s hard to do that on a knife spine.
But I can tell you that the saw teeth in my experience are not useless like many have claimed. They can be used to score wood
like you would do with a saw to split wood, score bone to break it evenly, scrape bark, cut notches on a bow drill hearth etc.
They are not necessary for any of these tasks for sure but they
are not a hindrance either. Why put them on then if they aren’t essential? Because I love the look (you may too) and I can
always find a use for them. At the very least they can be viewed a lot like file work (a truly
“useless” decoration) on the spine of a knife. But if you like file work then you should by all means
get it on your knife, the same goes for saw teeth. I leave enough room near the handle material that
doesn’t have saw teeth so you can still strike a metal match in that area.
As for being good for cutting out of aircraft I can’t say, I’ve never tested it personally since I
don’t have any old aircraft laying around.
F.y.I. I have found that the Randall style teeth are the worst for cutting wood (best looking in my opinion though)
and the triangular and pyramid style are pretty similar for wood use. If you want the best possible wood saw that I offer then
please order either the triangular or pyramid style teeth with a full height grind. The full height grind allows the blade to pass
through the saw kerf better than any other grind although it still is not a replacement for a true wood saw.
Reverse varied grind +$40.00: This is the only grind that is an upgrade in cost because it’s hard
to do and it’s always on a big blade that takes a lot more grinding
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The combat option
The combat option is an upgradeable option on any knife I offer in a full tang. Base price for the combat option is
$330.00
It includes, top grind (false or sharp) half height convex grind, standard red white and blue spacers, combat log etch
on the off side and pommel plate. It also comes with special canister packaging similar to this.
Spacer colors also available for allied nation flag colors.
- Duracoat flats- This is another possibility. Duracoat in a color to match the handle scale material on the flats of the knife.
Extra cost, please inquire.
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The L.R.R.P Hat
L.r.r.p. (pronounced Lurp) stands for Long Range Reconnaissance patrol. L.r.r.ps were some of the most
professional soldiers of the Vietnam era, running recon and ambush missions in the enemy’s back yard. Highly respected,
highly trained and highly motivated the L.r.r.p.s were the eyes and ears of their parent units, sniffing out the enemy where he
lived. I have high respect for those men and this is why I named the hat in their honor.
Some recon teams would sew an orange signal panel inside the crown of their boonie hats so that incoming gunships
and evac choppers could distinguish them from enemy soldiers.
I love boonie hats so this was something that I was bound to do at some point. I make these from various materials
depending on the customer’s needs and preferences. Each one features a fairly stiff brim, reversible orange crown for air
rescue signaling (signaling is something that is underrated in many woodsman’s kits in my opinion) and an adjustable chin
strap. The light versions are made of 200 denier cordura or pack cloth while the heavier version would be made of canvas.
The pack cloth version offers more water repellency than the canvas does but it is not water proof since the seems have not
been sealed. Being a summer hat I didn’t want to seal the seams so it would breath better, hopefully keeping your head cooler.
I can get several different kinds of camouflage pack cloth some of which are, multicam, tiger stripe, digital,
woodland and advisor. I can also make them in solid colors of pack cloth including but not limited to o.d. green and coyote
brown. In the canvas I can make them from natural canvas, o.d. green, tan and brown. Be advised that available materials
change with the wind so some of the colors listed above may or may not be had at the time you order. I’m sure I can also get
other camouflages patterns if you have something else in mind.
I will be taking orders on these in the future once I have the knife wait list complete.
The L.r.r.p. hat is now available from Lucky 1-2. I don't know if they are taking orders or if so how many but they are
currently making the hats..
Give me a holler if you would like their contact info to order one.
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Flash / Thunder molle axe carrier
Price: $55.00
Specs: All are different depending on color but most share some common materials for construction.
Some of which are: 1000 denier nylon, fastex buckles and triple stitched pals webbing.
I made the axe carrier to fit a niche of my own. I used to use just a single loop of paracord ran through the pals
webbing on my pack to carry my axe. That is until I bent over one day to pick something up off the ground.
You can probably guess what happened, the axe came flying out the top since there was nothing but the loop holding it.
That's how and why the axe carrier was born. It has a hood with fastex buckles to keep the axe snug when you bend over or if
your pack becomes inverted for whatever reason. The axe isn't going anywhere.
Fully molle compatible, all you need is some attachments like annex clips or malice clips.
The "kit" (if you want to call it that) comes with the axe carrier you see above and a color matching piece of paracord and
cord lock for those of you who might not have a compression strap near the bottom of your pack.
The axe carrier is named in honor of the American D-day invasion forces. One of the challenge and passwords they
used was “Flash/Thunder” to determine who was friend and who was enemy.
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The Mckinney bushcraft pack
Like many of the things I make I designed the Mckinney bushcraft pack based on how I like to go to the woods. It’s
features are directly influenced by how I carry a load and what I carry when I go camping or backpacking.
The features include:
-2628 cubic inch total capacity (about 3328 cubic inches with cinch collar)
-Side pockets 6x3x10 to accommodate a nalgene or guyout 38 oz. plus small cook kit and/or cup
-1" cinch horizontal straps with buckles on the outside of the side pockets
-9" cinch collar with draw string and cord lock giving about 700 c.i. extra to the main pack
-three rows of pals webbing under the hood on the front of the pack
-three rows of pals webbing inside the pack on the back wall
-secondary hook and loop closures on all outside pockets
-Will hook up to Alice frame with extra Alice hook up kit
-all exterior pockets are pass through for axe handles, shovel handles, saw bags etc
-internal frame sheet pocket
-internal padded frame sheet
-loops attached to back wall of pack for attaching the Miller chest rig
-three rows of pals webbing above each side pocket for attaching axes, shovels, saw bags etc
-three rows of pals webbing on top of the lid for attaching top pack, med kit etc
-detachable 36" cinch straps on bottom for sleeping pad, sleeping bag, etc
-6x6x3 front pass through tarp pocket
- constructed of 400d to 1000d cordura (depending on color you pick) using fastex buckles.
-colors available vary but in general o.d. green and coyote are always available. Also available (depending on supply) in
many, many other colors and camouflage patterns. Please let me know what color or camo you’d like and I’ll see if I can get
it.
-pack above is in Advisor camouflage (limited availability)
Price $325.00 for most colors and camo patterns.
Please go to www.turleyknives.com for more extensive information and videos on how the pack works and packs up.
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Miller chest rig
Once again, the Miller chest rig comes from my experience in the woods. I wanted something to wear that I could keep on me
when I took off my pack in camp. Something that held essential items should I want to go for a short hike without my pack or
in the event I was separated from my pack. I also wanted to be able to hook it to my pack to use as a cinch system, something
to tighten the pack to my body and make it less likely to flop around. Similar to a waist belt but more versatile and the chest
rig really cinches the pack to your body unlike any belt I’ve ever used.
The features include (going by the picture above)
A: 6x6x3 tarp pocket. Holds a M.E.S.T. tarp or ultra light 10x10
B: pals rows for pocket, holster etc attachment
C: Two pockets designed to hold the Army decontamination boxes which I use as a fire kit. But it will also hold similar sized
kits of any kind or two altoid tins. I use one pocket for my fire kit and one pocket to hold two altoid sized tins that hold a
personal survival kit and a sharpening kit
D. Behind the tarp pocket is a large internal map pocket or concealed carry pocket. There is also one on the opposite side.
-The rig will also hold a belt knife as pictured for easy access, similar to a neck knife but without he flopping around.
-The back is a panel with internal map/document pocket and covered with external pals rows to hook up a water bladder, axe
or similar.
-The back is removable to allow the chest rig to hook into the Mckinney pack and the Alamo scout pack
-Center opening instead of the tradition side or back open for easier on and off. It unbuckles like a vest.
-All external pockets have primary fastex closures and secondary hook and loop fasteners
- Features 36” adjustable straps on the sides to insure a one size fits all fit. Excess can be cut off or rolled up in a web
dominator.
-Shoulders straps have 24” of web front and back to allow the user to wear it at any height desired
-I can do these in all configurations and sizes and in many single colors or camouflage patterns.
Base price $125.00 for standard model.
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Pictured above is a variation of the Miller chest rig. More pals and the lower pockets are not on this model. This is just one of
the many variations available.
Show above is a smaller chest rig with a Flash /Thunder axe carrier hooked to the back panel.
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The C-9 Anorak
Coming soon
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The Alamo Scout pack
Coming soon.