Introductory Course
2
OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL
LAUNCHES ITS GREATEST
INNOVATION IN 26 YEARS…
PERMANENT SHINE
HAIR COLOUR
CALURA offers 82 shades and 1 clear, including vibrant
reds and coppers, as well as 5 high-lift blondes that will
meet the needs of even the most demanding colourist!
CALURA is reliable, predictable and revolutionary! Its
unique formula offers unparalleled, radiant shine!
3
EXOTHERMIC TECHNOLOGY
The CALURA exothermic system is an innovative technology that was designed to maximize dye
penetration and minimize hair damage. Each shade was formulated to generate a specific increase in
temperature to achieve desired results. The temperature increase varies from about +4°C (+7°F) to
about +11°C (+19°F ), opening the cuticle gently ensuring optimal dye penetration. As a bonus, this
heat allows a thorough penetration of the certified organic essences and keratin found in CALURA’s
unique formula. The outcome is unparalleled and radiant shine!
TEMPERATURE
+12°C
12-0/12N*
(+21°F)
+10°C
10-0/10N*
(+18°F)
+8°C
8-0/8N*
(+14°F)
+6°C
6-0/6N*
4-0/4N*
(+11°F)
+4°C
(+7°F)
+2°C
(+3°F)
10
20
30
40
50
60
PROCESSING TIME (min.)
* Shades are provided as an example only.
CALURA Exothermic Technology
Ammonia Based Colour
BENEFITS
4
- Covers 100% of grey hair, even in the case of resistant grey hair
- Allows gentle lift of up-to 5 levels
- Offers superior dye penetration for uniform results
- Offers superior penetration of organic essences and keratin for ultimate shine
- Offers superior conditioning of the hair
- Provides a pleasant temperature on the scalp when being applied
AMMONIA & PPD FREE
The era of ammonia based colour is coming to an end. The lingering unpleasant smell ammonia
produces in salons is a thing of the past. Now your salon can offer an agreeable, safe and comfortable
environment for an all around positive client experience.
CALURA offers unparalleled vibrancy and a reduction in alkaline forces thanks to its exothermic
technology.
In addition, it is completely PPD* free! PPD* is a chemical compound found in most permanent hair
colours; it can cause mild to severe allergic reactions.
*PPD = P-Phenylenediamine
BENEFITS
- Superior shine and conditioning
- Superior scalp comfort
- Pleasant fragrance and better air quality resulting in a healthier salon environment
At Oligo Professionnel we care about your health, as well as the environment.
It is for these reasons we created the AFP program. This program was created
to help you show your clients that you care by making the decision to use an
ammonia-free hair colour.
5
PURE CERTIFIED
ORGANIC ESSENCES
The purest organic essences have been carefully selected to be included in CALURA’s unique
formula. These essences have been chosen for their known benefits to the hair and scalp. They are
USDA certified ensuring that they are free of contaminants (pesticides, herbicides, solvents).
Additionally, organic agriculture farming methods were used to grow and extract these essences,
thus respecting the environment and promoting fair relationships and a good quality of life for all
involved.
CALURA contains the 4 following organic essences :
Organic Avocado Oil
Natural properties protect against free radicals
Treats the hair fiber
Properties of hydration and porosity equalizer
Organic Evening Primrose Oil
Protects the hair and scalp
Helps keep moisture inside the cortex
Organic Pomegranate Seed Oil
Antioxidant that helps distribute the pigments uniformly within the cortex
Contributes to the longevity of colour and provides ultimate shine
Organic Shea Butter
Anti-inflammatory and antibacterial
Improves shine and overall appearance of hair
Protects hair against hot styling tools and chemical treatments
6
KERATIN
Hair is constantly exposed to the aggressive elements of the environment; pollution, exposure
to sunlight, chemical treatments and mechanical manipulation are all causes of dull and dry
hair, making it more vulnerable to further damage.
The keratin included in CALURA’s formula is solely derived from a protein contained in wool
from New Zealand. This keratin, of the highest quality, protects the hair’s own natural keratin
as well as provides antioxidants that protect it from environmental elements.
The result is healthy, shiny and strong hair.
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COLOUR WHEEL
Mixing ratio 1:1
Pure Blondes 1:2
0/N
3/G
08/NB
34/GK
2/I
1/A
BROWN
BROWN
8/B
8/B
4/K
7/M
44/KK
54/RK
16/AV
6/V
45/KR
56/RV
55/RR
Note: 32 /GI yellow blue violet base
tonesbase
0/N GREEN
08/NB GREEN/BROWN
1- ABLUE
2/IBLUE/VIOLET
3/GYELLOW
32/GIYELLOW/BLUE/VIOLET
34/GKYELLOW/ORANGE
4/KORANGE
44/KKORANGE/ORANGE
45/KRORANGE/RED
54/RK RED/ORANGE
55/RRRED/RED
56/RVRED/VIOLET
- 6/ VVIOLET
7/MRED/VIOLET/BROWN
8/BBROWN
16/AVBLUE/VIOLET (ONLY IN PURE BLONDE SERIES)
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CODING SYSTEM
CALURA offers a dual coding system to facilitate colour identification. Letters or numbers
can be used based on your preference
1.Level of shade
2.Primary tone of shade
3.Secondary tone of shade
6-56/6RV
1
2 3
1 2 3
NATURAL UNDERLYING PIGMENTS
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GREY COVERAGE
CALURA offers a choice of 4 grey coverage series. With its unique technology, CALURA allows for 100%
grey coverage, even on resistant grey hair, in an ammonia-free environment. Each series was formulated to
meet a specific need and achieve a unique result. These shades can be used alone, mixed with each other or
with a fashion shade.
0/N
08/NB
8/B
34/GK
Intermix when toning down intensity is desired. Will achieve cool results.
Intermix to maintain intensity. Will achieve neutral cool results.
Intermix to achieve maximum depth and rich result. Will achieve warm results
Intermix with any warm shade to achieve maximum vibrancy. Will achieve warmest results
Fashion shades do not cover grey hair and must be mixed with a shade of similar level from any of the 4 grey
coverage series. The mixing proportions are as follows:
25% grey hair = 75% fashion shade + 25% grey coverage shade
50% grey hair or more = 50% fashion shade + 50% grey coverage shade
OTHER POINTS TO CONSIDER
- For optimal coverage, do not use a shade with a level
lighter than an 8.
- The minimum processing time is 35-45 minutes.
- For resistant grey hair, use a 30 volume.
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CALURA DEVELOPERS
The CALURA developers have been formulated to ensure perfect stability,
ideal consistency and reliable, predictable results. They should be used as
follows:
10 volume (3%)
Tone
20 volume (6%)
Tone-on-tone deposit or darker
Lift 1 to 2 levels
Grey coverage
30 volume (9%)
Lift 3 levels
Grey coverage for resistant grey hair
40 volume (12%)
Lift 4-5 levels
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PROCESSING TIMES
RESULTS
PROCESSING TIME
DEVELOPER
Tone
3-10 minutes
10 vol. (3%)
Tone-on-tone or darker*
30 minutes
20 vol. (6%)
Grey coverage
35-45 minutes
20 vol. (6%)
1 level of lift
35 minutes
20 vol. (6%)
2 levels of lift
40 minutes
20 vol. (6%)
3 levels of lift
45 minutes
30 vol. (9%)
4 levels of lift
50 minutes
40 vol. (12%)
5 levels of lift
60 minutes
40 vol. (12%)
*For 44/KK and 55/RR series, processing time is 40 minutes.
RINSING INSTRUCTIONS
Once colour has finished processing:
1 - Add lukewarm water and emulsify
2- Rinse throughly and gently until water runs clear
3 - Shampoo with Alcove Hydrating Shampoo
4 - Condition with Alcove Hydrating Conditioner
5 - Apply Alcove Cuticle Sealer, leave on for 5 min and rinse.
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CREATIVE AND CORRECTIVE SERIES
- Offers 2 drabbers and 4 intensifiers
- Must be included in formula
- Use up to 25% of formula
INTENSIFIERS
This series was designed to offer stylists unlimited creative possibilities. Formulated with
oxidative dyes only (except for 0-33 that also contains direct dyes) the CALURA
Intensifiers offer ultimate vibrancy and effective tonal control.
- 0-33 gold base: adds gold tonality and warmth to any fashion shade
- 0-44 copper base: adds copper tonality to fashion shades level 5 or lighter
- 0-55 red base: adds red vibrancy to any copper, red or violet fashion shades
- 0-66 violet base: adds violet vibrancy to any red or violet fashion shades
DRABBERS
The CALURA drabbers are an excellent tool for effective tonal control. The table below
should be used as a guideline only. Please note that all hair is different and results may
vary depending on hair quality, resistance of underlying pigment and processing time.
LEVEL
DRABBER
% OF FORMULA
QUANTITY (g or oz)*
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
N/A
0-11
0-11
0-11
0-11
0-11
0-16
0-16
0-16
0-16
25%
25%
20%
20%
15%
25%
20%
15%
15%
15 g/0.5 oz.
15 g/0.5 oz.
12 g/0.4 oz.
12 g/0.4 oz.
9 g/0.3 oz.
15 g/0.5 oz.
12 g/0.4 oz.
9 g/0.3 oz.
9 g/0.3 oz.
*Proportions are based on a formula containing 60 g/ 2 oz. of colour.
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PRE-FILL FORMULAS
Pre-filling is a method of replacing warm pigments missing from hair, due to over processing or
environmental factors.
WHEN TO PRE-FILL HAIR:
1. Colouring hair darker by 2 or more levels
2. Extreme colour loss (colour faded by 2 levels or more)
3. Always pre-fill the hair one level lighter than the target shade
DESIRED
LEVEL
CALURA PRE-FILL FORMULAS
DEVELOPER
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
9-3/9G
1/4 9-34/9GK + 3/4 9-3/9G
1/4 8-34/8GK + 3/4 8-3/8G
1/4 7-45/7KR + 3/4 7-3/7G
1/4 6-45/6KR + 3/4 6-3/6G
5-7/5M
4-7/4M
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
Processing pre-fill formulas:
1 - Apply appropriate pre-filling formula
2 - Process formula for 15 minutes
3 - Shampoo with Alcove Hydrating Shampoo
4 - Dry hair
5 - Proceed with final colour formula using 20 vol.
6 - Process final colour for 30 min
7 - Shampoo with Alcove Hydrating Shampoo
8 - Condition with Alcove Hydrating Conditioner
9 - Apply Alcove Cuticle Sealer for 3-5 min
Note: In a time constraint, remove excess colour and apply target shade using a 20 volume. However,
applying colour on clean, dry hair always provides longer-lasting colour.
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INTENSE SHADES
CALURA offers 2 intense series: -44/KK and -55/RR. These series were formulated to offer
maximum vibrancy, superior shine and longer lasting results.
• Processing time for these shades are
- 40 minutes if no grey hair
- 45 minutes on grey hair
• Mix with a shade from a grey coverage series
• It is recommended to pre-fill pre-lightened hair
PRE-FILLING FORMULAS FOR INTENSE SHADES
TARGET SHADE
FILLING SHADE
DEVELOPER
PROCESSING TIME
5-44/ 5KK
6-44/6KK
7-44/7KK
5-55/5RR
6-55/6RR
7-55/7RR
6-45/6KR
7-45/7KR
3/4 7-45/7KR + 1/4 Clear
6-54/6RK
7-54/7RK
3/4 7-54/7RK + 1/4 Clear
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
10 vol (3%)
15 min
15 min
15 min
15 min
15 min
15 min
Processing pre-fill formulas:
1 - Apply appropriate pre-fill formula
2 - Process formula for 15 minutes
3 - Shampoo with Alcove Hydrating Shampoo
4 - Dry hair
5 - Proceed with final colour formula with 20 vol.
6 - Process final colour for 40 min
7 - Shampoo with Alcove Hydrating Shampoo
8 - Condition with Alcove Hydrating Conditioner
9 - Apply Alcove Cuticle Sealer for 3-5 min
Note: In a time constraint, remove excess colour and apply target shade using a 20 volume. However,
applying colour on clean dry hair always provides longer-lasting colour.
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PURE BLONDE SERIES
MIXING RATIO 1:2
- the PURE BLONDE series shades should be mixed with a 30 or 40 volume developer only.
- to be used on levels 6 and higher; when applying these shades on darker levels, expect warmer results.
- processing time is up to 60 min.
- do not apply on pre-lightened hair.
- apply generously for optimal lift.
- the PURE BLONDE shades are not target shades, they should be used for maximum lift and tonal control.
- for extra toning, add up to 25% of 0-16 drabber.
- for white hair:
- for less than 50% white hair, any PURE BLONDE shade can be used
- for 50% or more white hair, it is recommended to use shade 12-0/12N alone or intermixed with any PURE BLONDE shade
RECOMMENDED APPLICATION
12-1/12A
6 Natural
CB
7 Natural
A
8 Natural
12-2/12B
WB
CB
A
12-16/12AV
WB
CB
A
WB
CB
12-6/6V
N.B. Fine textured hair regrowth
To avoid cool tones, only apply colour during the last 30
minutes. Alternatively, mix 12-0/12N with your desired shade
for the complete processing time.
WB = Warm Beige, CB = Cool Beige, A= Ash
TONERS
TONING PRE-LIGHTENED HAIR
Toning pre-lightened hair is a step that is performed after lightening hair to either neutralize undesired warmth,
deposit a hue or both.
Always tone with a 10 vol. developer. Processing time is 3-10 minutes.
1- Always pre-lighten to desired target level
2- Apply toner on damp hair. Doing so allows for better control
3- Pre-lightened hair is very porous. Supervise process as toner may work quickly
4- To reduce speed of toner add clear to formula
5- If lightening result is platinum choose neutral or warmer tone
6- Do not shampoo hair after toner. Rinse toner and apply Alcove Cuticle Sealer, let process for 5 minutes and rinse
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TONALITY
TARGET SHADE
RESULTS & RECOMMENDATIONS
Cool / Iridescent
7-2/7I
Iridescent Blonde
8-2/8I
Level 7: For a less iridescent result,
add 50% 7-3/7G
Level 8 & 9 : For a beige champagne result,
add 1/4 9-34/9GK
9-2/9I
Beige
8-32/8GI
9-32/9GI
10-32/10GI
Cool Beige
1/2 10-32/10GI + 1/2 10-8/10B
Warm beige
3/4 9-32/9GI + 1/4 9-3/9G
Neutral
10-8/10B
1/2 9-32/9GI + 1/2 9-8/9B
For a warmer shade: add 1/4 to 1/2 of the
formula of gold series (3/G)
Natural beige
Caramels
3/4 8-08/8NB + 1/4 8-34/8GK
3/4 9-08/9NB + 1/4 9-34/9GK
Subtle caramel
Warm Caramels
7-8/7B
8-8/8B
9-8/9B
Deep warm caramel
Intense Caramel
3/4 9-8/9B + 1/4 9-34/9GK
Very warm caramel
3/4 8-8/8B + 1/4 9-34/9GK
Very Intense Caramel
1/2 9-8/9B + 1/2 9-34/9GK
Intense warm caramel
1/2 8-8/8B + 1/2 8-34/8GK
Warm/Golden
9-3/9G
Warm golden
Cinnamon
7-34/9GK
Warm cinnamon
8-34/9GK
9-34/9GK
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BLACKLIGHT LIGHTENING SYSTEM
Blacklight High
Performance Ionic
Lightener
Blacklight Powder
Blacklight Cream
Blacklight Cream
Ammonia-Free
BLACKLIGHT LIGHTENERS
COMPARISON CHART
BLACKLIGHT BLACKLIGHT
EXTRA BLONDE COOL TONED
BLONDE
BLACKLIGHT
AMMONIAFREE
CREAM
Ammonia
Yes
Yes
Yes
No
Lipid content
Low
Low
High
Medium
Mixing ratio on scalp
1:2
1:1.5
1:1
1:1
Speed
Very fast
Faster
Fast
Moderate
Levels of lift on natural hair
Up to 9
Up to 8
Up to 7
Up to 3
Best results on natural levels
1 and lighter
1 and lighter
1 and lighter
3 and lighter
Up to 8
Up to 7
Up to 6
Up to 3
Level 3 and lighter
Level 5 and lighter
Yes*
Yes
Levels of lift on colour treated hair
Best results on colour treated hair
Application on porous hair
Level 1 and lighter Level 1 and lighter
Yes*
Yes*
Recommended for fine hair
Yes*
Yes*
Yes*
Yes
Processing under heat
No
No
No
No
No
Yes, with cool
pigments and dyes
Yes, with cool
pigments
Yes, with cool
pigments
Contains pigments
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
Contains dyes
No
Yes
No
No
Yes
Yes
Yes
5 vol. to 40 vol.
5 vol. to 40 vol.
5 vol. to 40 vol.
Tones in single step
Decolourizing
Recommended developers
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BLACKLIGHT
ORIGINAL
CREAM
Yes
5 vol. to 30 vol.
Note: The high concentration of lipids in Blacklight Cream help to protect the skin and scalp.
For optimum lift with added hair and scalp protection, use equal parts of Blacklight Powder
and Blacklight Original Cream.
DECOLOURIZATION FORMULA
LEVELS OF
LIFT
Cleansing- 1/2
to 1 level
1 oz Blacklight POWDER + 2 oz warm
water
to eliminate a light undesirable tone
1 level of lift
1 oz Blacklight POWDER + 2 oz 10 vol.
developer + 1 oz Blacklight Nourishing
shampoo
to eliminate a more dominant undesirable tone.
this formula can lift up-to 1 level
2 or more levels
1 oz Blacklight POWDER + 2 oz 20 vol.
developer.
to remove darker, more dominant undesirable
shades
1 - Process decolourizing formula to desired level
2 - Shampoo with Blacklight Nourishing Shampoo
3 - Condition with Blacklight Nourishing Conditioner
It is not necessary to always tone the hair after decolourization. If needed, choose a cool shade to
neutralize any warmth left from lightening.
After decolourization the hair is generally porous, therefore choose a shade 1 level lighter than
the target shade. Always do a strand test first to determine processing time.
BLACKLIGHT CARE
Highlighting and bleaching treatments not only strip pigments from the hair but also amino acids. For that reason
highlighted and bleached hair is often dry, brittle, limp, unmanageable and very porous. The Blacklight solution is a
sulfate-free system that infuses amino acids back into the hair, resulting in healthier, smoother and more manageable
hair. Its unique formula moisturizes, repairs and smooths hair as well as increase colour retention.
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ALCOVE PRODUCTS
Each Alcove product features Oligo Professionnel’s exclusive Microcapsules Technology. This
revolutionary system comprised of 6 specific Microcapsules, infuses your hair with precisely the
nutrients it needs—no more, no less.
As the hair is dried, either naturally or with a hair dryer, the microcapsules disintegrate and
release a dosed selection of essential nutrients. Thanks to Alcove’s customized revitalization,
hydration and protection process, the result is beautiful, soft and healthier hair.
ALCÔVE SHAMPOOS AND CONDITIONERS ARE ALL
SULFATE, SALT AND PARABEN FREE
Protection Microcapsule
-
Formulated to leave moisture levels perfectly balanced when used daily
-
Contains flaxseed extract and soy protein
Hydrating Microcapsule
-
Formulated to replenish hair in need of deep hydration and weightless conditioning
-
Contains sunflower seed oil and acai berry extract
Repair Microcapsule
-
Formulated to restore strength and elasticity for hair in need of internal repair
-
Contains flaxseed extract and avocado oil
Nourishing and Protection Microcapsule
-
Formulated to provide internal strength and cuticle reinforcement
-
Contains flaxseed extract and sunflower seed oil
Shine and Conditioning Microcapsule
-
Formulated to smooth and seal the cuticle locking in color or curls and provide
unprecedented shine
-
Contains avocado oil and olive oil
UV Defense Microcapsule
-
Formulated to offer maximum UV filter protection
-
Contains benzophenone-3 (UV filter) and vitamin E (antioxidant)
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DAILY HYDRATING SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER
- Recommended for natural and colour treated hair
- Enriched with a Protection Microcapsule
- Promote healthier hair and ensures longer
lasting color
HYDRATING SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER
- Recommended for colour treated hair
- Enriched with a Hydrating Microcapsule
- Promote healthier hair and ensures longer
lasting color
- Replenish hair in need of deep hydration and weightless conditioning
REPAIR SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER
- Recommended for colour treated hair,
- Enriched with a Repair Microcapsule
- Promote healthier hair and ensures longer
lasting color
- Restore strength and elasticity for hair in
need of internal repair
CUTICLE SEALER
- Enriched with a Shine and Conditioning
Microcapsule
- Acidifier that smooths and seals the cuticle
and locks in color and curls
- Reduces hair swelling caused by chemical
services, such as coloring, lightening,
straightening and perming
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MOLDING PASTE
ALCOVE STYLING
CURL ACTIVATOR
- Enriched a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Defines and separates curls while adding volume, texture and shine
- Frizz-free formula ideal to support soft
and casual waves
-Effective in high humidity environments.
FINISHING SPRAY
- Formulated with a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Holds and maintains a finished
style while adding shine
FIRM HOLD GEL
- Enriched with a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Resistant to high humidity
- Recommended for extreme
styling and defined texture
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- Enriched with a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Matte finish paste
- Provides pliable definition and texture
THERMAL SPRAY
- Formulated with a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Prevents damage from blow dryers
and irons
- Humidity resistant
- Increases body and enhances shine
MEDIUM HOLD GEL
- Enriched with a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Resistant to high humidity
- For defined texture
VOLUMIZING FOAM
- Formulated with a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Ideal for fine to medium hair
- Provides feather-light volume and enhances shine
- Provides protection against humidity and frizzing for all day support
SMOOTHING LOTION
- Enriched with a UV Defense Microcapsule
- Smooths curls, tames frizz and controls waves for an exceptional straight style
- Humidity-resistant formula to ensure long lasting smoothness
ALCOVE CARE
LEAVE-IN TREATMENT
SERUM
- Enriched with a Shine and Conditioning Microcapsule
- Creates instant shine and long term conditioning without leaving residues
- Oil-based formula with a unique quality of instant absorption
- Enriched with a Nourishing and Protection Microcapsule
- Fortifies the damaged areas of hair and helps reduce breakage
- Helps provide internal strength and cuticle reinforcement leaving hair healthy-looking, manageable and shiny
RESTRUCTURING MASK
- Enriched with a Repair Microcapsule
- Designed to hydrate and repair damaged hair
- With continued use, it revitalizes hair, restoring shine and manageability
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Questions ?
1.877.837.6426
www.oligoprofessionnel.com