87 tall tales & true For a sheer lip this season, apply lipstick to the centre of the lower lip only and blend with your finger. This gives just a hint of natural colour. Only apply to top and bottom lips if you really want to appear to be wearing lipstick. tip! No more slapdash skincare. Application is key! “Always apply face products that have been warmed to body temperature in the hand for more effective absorption. Then apply face products with the flat of both hands using light pressing movements,” advises Rebecca Nicholls, head of education at Trimex. Q: I have every beauty cream, lotion and potion known to woman! Why do I need a serum? Basically, serums pack a bigger punch. Typically a higher-potency skincare formula packed with nutrients, antioxidants or moisturising ingredients, they are designed to deliver more intense results. A: Try: SK-II Signs Wrinkle Serum, $198. Thought you’d heard it all before? Think again. Emma-Charlotte Bangay picks the brains of beauty’s biggest know-it-alls. Q: A: Is it true that my scent will last longer if I use it in perfume and body cream form? Yes! By layering a scent in additional forms — such as body wash or cream — your skin will carry the perfume, without altering the smell. If you have oily skin, it is recommended that you use a corresponding shower gel, deodorant or body lotion to prepare the skin for the fragrance. If you have dry skin, using a body cream or body butter will nourish and scent skin, and prevent it from absorbing most of the fragrance. This is a particularly good idea for special occasions. Try: Chloe Perfumed Shower Gel, $55, and Crème Collection Perfumed Body Cream, $95. 88 Winter Q: There are so many beauty choices around, how do I know what’s best? Get online, girl! Before you hit the beauty counters, use the Internet to research the different cosmetic categories and find out more about any new offerings in store. Try: Juice Beauty Green Apple Extra Firming Body Moisturizer, $59. A: BEAUTY TRUE/FALSE? Blush is best applied over foundation. FALSE “It’s all about the kind of finish you want on the cheeks,” says MAC resident trainer Lisa Terizis. “Cream blush that is gel based creates a natural glow to the cheeks and can be used under foundation for that ‘glow from within’ look. Best applied with a brush, this gives a ‘soft wash’ look to cheeks.” Try: MAC Duo Fibre Brush #187, $85. tip! “I use Bepanthen — a nappy rash and antiseptic cream — on my lips and all around my smile lines at night,” says Becca Cosmetics founder Rebecca Morrice Williams. “I find that it makes my lips velvety soft and moisturised the next morning, and I never seem to have chapped or dry lips.” Q: A: How can I get dewy skin without looking too shiny? Use a foundation designed specifically for that look — preferably one with a high water content. Try: Chanel Hydramax+ Active Moisture Tinted Lotion in Sand or Bronzelit, $79. FAST FACT: Cleopatra reputedly maintained her beautiful skin by bathing in goat’s milk! Q: A: STILL-LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES MOFFATT. Can I still go in the sun if I use a whitening cream? “All of the hard work that you put into fading brown spots and making your skin tone more even can be erased with even one day of extended sun exposure without protection,” says Dr Adam Geyer, Kiehl’s international dermatologist. “This is true whether you are using at-home preparations, getting chemical peels and microdermabrasion, or having brown spots lasered off. You can still be outdoors, but rigorous precautions need to be taken.” Try: Kiehl’s Dermatologist Solutions Surface Brightening Exfoliator, $55, and Clarifying Whitening Toner, $63. Q: A: I have heard that ‘fillers’ are a popular cosmetic procedure to look younger. What are they? “A filler is just as it states — a substance that is injected into the body to fill a space,” says Dr Tobias Pincock MBBS FRACS, a member of the Australasian Academy of Facial Plastic Surgery. “As we get older, most changes in the face are due to either movement or gradual atrophy (shrinkage) of naturally occurring fat in the face. That’s what gives a baby’s plumper face its youthful appearance. When the natural fat shrinks away or moves, it leaves the skin without as much support so wrinkles form or it can give a hollowed-out skeletal appearance which people associate with age.” Filling in these areas allows a surgeon to “recreate the appearance of youth”. Fillers can also be used to enhance areas that need additional plumping such as lips or cheek bones, or to restore contour to an area of the face that’s been damaged by disease or surgery. www.sydneyfacialplastics.com.au Running late with guests at the door? Use a shower gel from your favourite fragrance range to layer your fragrance and leave a lingering scent in your bathroom long after you’ve left it! Try: Narciso Rodriguez Essence Scented Shower Gel, $69. BIN YOUR BEAUTY BUYS WHEN: • M ascara becomes dry and clumpy and application is difficult. “Think 3–6 months only!” says Lancôme’s national make-up expert, Michael Brown. • L ipstick is no longer smooth “or looks like it’s been run over by a truck!” says Brown. “Surely that is not hygienic, right?” • F oundation discolours or smells strange. “Or the product has separated because of lack of use.” Q: A: What is the difference between Vitamin A, C and E in skincare? Choosing the right vitamins depends on your skin type and concerns, says Monodermà trainer Danielle Sinclair. “Vitamin A is perfect in treating fine lines, sun damage, acne and skin in need of a boost. Vitamin C will give you a luminous glow, is great for pigmentation and radiance boosting. And Vitamin E soothes and calms irritated or sensitive skin and is very healing.” Try: Monodermà C10, $80. Winter 89 FAST FACT: One of the latest buzz words in beauty ingredients is vegetal collagen. This protein solution is obtained by fermenting soybeans under sterile conditions and is the wonder ingredient in Bakel’s Collagen Firming Formula. The makers claim it will help skin maintain suppleness, as well as helping to calm and hydrate the skin. Try: Bakel Collagen Firming Formula, $190. Place a tiny bit of olive oil on the inside of a cut open shiitake mushroom and place under your eyes for an instant eye lift. tip! To test if your skin is too sensitive for a make-up brush, try the bristles against your skin before buying. The bristles should feel soft, not scratchy or rough, advises Bobbi Brown, make-up artist and founder of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. If you prefer to apply make-up with the fingertips, “the heat from your hands warms the product, allowing it to spread and blend more easily.“ Q: A: How can I wear neon colour without looking like Boy George circa 1982? Pair neon coloured eyeliner with neutral tones to create a subtle intensity along the lash line. Prefer to make lips your focus? Mix a bright lipstick with a clear gloss to create a soft yet vibrant look. This is a big trend for the autumn season. Try: MAC lipstick in Show Orchid, $35. WAX ON. WAX OFF. If you’ve smudged your mascara, don’t rub at it! Let it dry and brush it off with a cotton bud. Mascara is made from lots of different waxes and a film that, when dry, is easy to remove from skin. Q: A: TRUE/FALSE? top 3 Q: A: How much perfume is the perfect amount? “A fragrance should not impose too strongly on one’s neighbours in the office, train, beach, restaurant or bedroom,” says Françoise Donche, the brand ’nose’ at Givenchy. Treat it like a diet with everything in moderation, she advises. “Limit the spraying to a minimum — two for example — or try the hair-spraying approach. It is discreet and intimate.” make-up artist tricks 1 If your skin’s looking better than usual you need less foundation, says make-up artist Elsa Morgan. Mix half what you’d normally use with a moisturiser or even an illuminating lotion. 2 Most bronzers have too much red in them to look truly natural for contouring; instead, contour with foundation a shade darker than usual. 3 Illuminating concealers are fabulous for brightening shadow areas such as under the eye and around the nose. For blemishes and broken capillaries, stick to classic concealers that camouflage flaws. 90 Winter Using an EDP of one scent and a cream of another causes sensory overload? TRUE The EDP will always overpower the body cream so if you invest in a beautiful fragrance it is always best to wear it with its own complementary products. When there are too many scents competing, the result is a recipe for a headache! Are in-salon chemical peels safer than at-home products? “Chemical peels are popular for anyone who wants to improve the clarity, radiance and texture of their skin. While most acid peels performed by dermatologists are safe and very effective, they can cause irritation, make the skin sun sensitive and are expensive,” says Alison McBurnie, Clinique’s national education manager. “With Turnaround Radiance Peel, you can achieve results comparable to a low level (30 per cent) chemical peel without leaving your bathroom.” McBurnie says that with weekly use, this system will help leave skin radiant, minimise the look of pores and soften the appearance of fine lines. Try: Clinique Turnaround Radiance Peel, $110. tip! Too flat out for a facial? “Giving yourself a weekly exfoliation and mask treatment will keep the skin looking healthy and glowing, in between your facial treatments,” recommends Lauren Murcia of Lauren Murcia Skin, Body & Soul. BEAUTY Q: How can my man get the best out of his moisturiser? Debbie D’Aquino, vice president of global product development at Clinique, shares some skin preparation pointers for your man: A: • U se shaving cream, gel or foam. Without it, your razor will drag, rather than glide across the skin. The more it drags, the harder you will press, and the more razor burn, bumps, in-grown hairs and cuts you will be likely to experience. Q: A: Where is the best place to spritz my scent? Rather than spritzing randomly, aim for the different pulse points on your body. In effect, they provide a little ’nest’ for drops of scent, and the warmth of the skin assists with both diffusing the fragrance and helping it last longer. Prime positions include the back of the neck, back of the ears, inside the décolletage, back of the knees and the inside of the ankles. Try: Badgley Mischka Couture, $170 (100ml EDP). • D on’t lazy shave. To get the perfect shave you must add hot water. When hair absorbs hot water, it becomes softer and easier to cut. Q: A: Can I use the one make-up brush for eyes and cheeks? “Brushes are designed for a specific part of the face, so it’s best to use different brushes for your eyes and cheeks,” says make-up artist Bobbi Brown. “The small, fluffy bristles of an eye shadow brush pick up just the right amount of eye shadow for your lid, while the wide, rounded shape of a blush brush applies the perfect amount of powder blush onto the apples of the cheeks, for a seamless and natural finish.“ Try: Bobbi Brown Blush Brush, $90. Always test foundation along the jawline and forehead — not the back of the hand — to match the best shade. • M oisturise. Shaving removes surface layers of the skin so hours after a shave, your skin will feel drier due to the disruption of the skin’s barrier. Try: Clinique Skin Supplies for Men Age Defense Hydrator SPF15, $75. DID YOU KNOW? Cellulite is less about weight than it is about lifestyle. Poor diet, stress, drinking, smoking and lack of exercise all progressively encourage the advance of cellulite and sagging skin. Q: A: My skin is so fresh after exercise. How can I recreate this? This vitality in the skin is a result of pumping circulation and blood flow close to the surface. The bad news is that this can't be bottled, but Clarins Younger Longer Balm may have a similar effect by acting on micro circulation and nerve ending networks, says Rebecca Nicholls, head of education at Trimex. “By optimising the activity of cells, it enables the whole skin system to function better.” Try: Clarins Younger Longer Balm, $142. > Give good lash by choosing your mascara wisely, advises Michael Brown, national make-up expert at Lancôme. “The actual brush of the mascara has a lot to do with the result you are after. The fatter or wider apart the bristles on the brush, the more volume your lash will get as a result.“ Conversely, thinner and closer set bristles deliver more length. Try: Lancôme Hypnôse Original in Noir, $52. Winter 91 Q: The seasons are changing, and so is my skin! Do I need to switch up my skincare every time the weather changes? The best investment is a multipurpose cream that is suitable for all skin types and designed to strengthen and nourish skin in any climate. Try: Dior Capture XP Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Serum, $193, and Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Radiance Enhancer, $210. tip! A: “Using a foundation brush uses less product than if you blend in with your fingers,” advises Dominique Papadopoulous, the Paris-based make-up training coordinator for Chanel. ”And if you apply your moisturiser with the brush first and then apply your foundation with the same brush, it allows the foundation to be more malleable across the skin, achieving a more polished finish.” Q: A: Is my shower gel strong enough for my boyfriend’s skin? Men’s skin has a tendency to be thicker and oilier, says Matthew Teri, vice president of corporate product development for the Estée Lauder Companies. “Cleansing and purifying the skin is critical to removing dirt and sebum from lodging and clogging pores, and keeping skin healthy looking,” says Teri. So for best results, use a product that’s designed for men. Try: Lab Series Active Body Wash, $35. “Concealer follows foundation,” says make-up artist Elsa Morgan. “Blending foundation over concealer will blend away the coverage, so it’s best to apply foundation first, then carefully apply concealer. Be sure to do so in pressing motions without dragging or rubbing, and then apply powder to set.” DID YOU KNOW? Skincare in capsule form offers the exact dosage required and ensures that any potent ingredients remain at their full potential until they land on your skin. TRUE/FALSE? tip! Go for three-in-one solutions when you can. Apply lipstick at your desk or on the run by using one with a mirror attached and keep lips soft with a formula that moisturises. Try: Guerlain Rouge G in Ginger, $68. Celebrities really do develop and wear their own scents. TRUE Word has it that Sarah Jessica Parker attended meetings with perfumers armed with a selection of scents that she likes. Jennifer Lopez works with colour swatches while Victoria Beckham works on all the scents in the Beckham stable. “She is incredibly hands on,” says a Coty fragrances insider. Apply concealer to highlight, not hide, tired eyes. Cult favourite YSL Touche Eclat Radiant Touch works to bring light, luminosity and radiance to the eye area and other parts of the face. Apply three to four brush strokes under each eye and then blend with fingertips. Also apply on the eyelid and just under the brows for a highlighting lift. Try: Yves Saint Laurent Touche Eclat Radiant Touch, $72. 92 Winter Q: A: Are organic and biodynamic skincare the same thing? No. “The key difference is that organic is about nutrition and plant health, with a major focus on sustainable farming practices,” explains Florian Wolf, head of research and development for Jurlique. “Biodynamic focuses on creating a nutrient-rich, self-sustaining farm in perpetuity through plant preparations and farming according to the moon and planetary cycles.” Try: Jurlique Biodynamic Beauty Serum, $85. Winter comes with wet weather and dry skin. More indoor heating and less outdoor activity can lead to parched complexions. Counteract the effects through your diet by drinking pure water and by eating leafy green vegetables and fruit to maintain the fatty acids in your body. BEAUTY Q: A: Forget crow’s feet, I’ve got a turkey neck! What can I do? Apply a firming serum in light, upward strokes to work against gravity. “The skin that is starting to go a little south will tighten up and look years younger,” says Dr Jason Rubin, medical director of Belli Skin Care. Try: Belli Body Firming Serum, $65. > WE LOVE THESE TRENDS FOR WINTER… Farewell the dewy look and perfect a matte finish. Skin is clean and flawless with bronzer on the backburner, as porcelain complexions dominate. Striking jewel tones are right for eyes, teamed with nearly nude lips. Try: Revlon Matte Eye Shadow in Venetian Blue, $19.95. FAST FACT: The skin around the eyes is thinner and more fragile and contains fewer oil glands than the rest of the face, making it especially vulnerable to ageing. Wine shades on lips add romantic luxury. This lip look is best teamed with a subtle eye as the lips command attention. Try: Revlon Crème Gloss in (from left) Pink Cami, Strike a Rose or Patent Leather Pink, $23.95. SLOW DOWN! Go slowly when applying your mascara to get a more consistent amount of product onto your lash, meaning less clumping. If your lashes are sticking together, you have probably applied too much or used too many small, fast strokes. Q: A: My mother told me never to use soap on my face. Why is this? Many soaps are too harsh for the fragile skin on the face because of their chemical-based ingredients. If you do like to lather up, go for one that is handmade using ingredients like goat’s milk and olive oil. The pH level of goat’s milk is very similar to human skin and is therefore gentle and nourishing. Try: Billie Goat Soap in Rose Geranium, $8.95. tip! Keep your facial maintenance monthly. ”Anything under three weeks is too often and will overstimulate and overexfoliate. The only exception is when you have a skin concern that is being actively treated by your therapist,” advises Lauren Murcia of Lauren Murcia Skin, Body & Soul. Let your scent linger longer by spraying it into your hair. Hair is so porous that it holds scent sensationally well! But beware: overspritzing can be damaging, so save it for special occasions. Try: Narciso Rodriguez For Her Hair Mist, $78. TRUE/FALSE? Teeth age as quickly as the rest of you. TRUE says dental surgeon Nick Hocking. “Wear or ‘TSL’ (tooth surface loss) is the biggest ageing issue for teeth,” he says. Avoid it by minimising acid — caused by reflux, lemons or frequent soft drink consumption — in the mouth, and by brushing gently. Aggressive brushing or abrasive toothpastes can cause sensitivity, abrasion lesions or grooves on the side necks of the teeth, as well as possible yellowing of the necks. tip! Keep cosmetics in the closet. Always store your products away from direct sunlight, especially skincare and foundation, which can have active ingredients. A cool, dry place — like your bathroom cupboard — is best. Winter 93
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