87
tall tales
& true
For a sheer lip this
season, apply lipstick
to the centre of the
lower lip only and
blend with your finger.
This gives just a hint of natural colour. Only
apply to top and bottom lips if you really
want to appear to be wearing lipstick.
tip!
No more slapdash skincare.
Application is key!
“Always apply face products that have been
warmed to body temperature in the hand for
more effective absorption. Then apply face
products with the flat of both hands using
light pressing movements,” advises Rebecca
Nicholls, head of education at Trimex. Q:
I have every beauty
cream, lotion and
potion known to woman!
Why do I need a serum?
Basically, serums
pack a bigger punch.
Typically a higher-potency
skincare formula packed
with nutrients, antioxidants
or moisturising ingredients,
they are designed to deliver
more intense results.
A:
Try: SK-II Signs
Wrinkle Serum,
$198.
Thought you’d heard it all before? Think again.
Emma-Charlotte Bangay picks the brains of
beauty’s biggest know-it-alls.
Q:
A:
Is it true that my scent will last
longer if I use it in perfume and
body cream form?
Yes! By layering a scent in additional
forms — such as body wash or
cream — your skin will carry the perfume,
without altering the smell. If you have oily
skin, it is recommended that you use a
corresponding shower gel, deodorant or
body lotion to prepare the skin for the
fragrance. If you have dry skin, using
a body cream or body butter will
nourish and scent skin, and prevent
it from absorbing most of the
fragrance. This is a particularly
good idea for special occasions.
Try: Chloe Perfumed Shower
Gel, $55, and Crème Collection
Perfumed Body Cream, $95.
88
Winter
Q:
There are so
many beauty
choices around, how
do I know what’s best?
Get online, girl!
Before you hit
the beauty counters, use
the Internet to research
the different cosmetic
categories and find out
more about any new
offerings in store.
Try: Juice Beauty Green
Apple Extra Firming
Body Moisturizer, $59.
A:
BEAUTY
TRUE/FALSE?
Blush is best applied over foundation.
FALSE “It’s all about the kind of finish
you want on the cheeks,” says MAC
resident trainer Lisa Terizis. “Cream blush
that is gel based creates a natural glow
to the cheeks and can be used under
foundation for that ‘glow from within’
look. Best applied with a brush, this gives
a ‘soft wash’ look to cheeks.”
Try: MAC Duo Fibre Brush #187, $85.
tip!
“I use Bepanthen — a nappy rash and
antiseptic cream — on my lips and all
around my smile lines at night,” says
Becca Cosmetics founder Rebecca Morrice
Williams. “I find that it makes my lips velvety
soft and moisturised the next morning, and I
never seem to have chapped or dry lips.”
Q:
A:
How can I get dewy skin without
looking too shiny?
Use a foundation designed specifically
for that look — preferably one with a
high water content.
Try: Chanel Hydramax+ Active Moisture
Tinted Lotion in Sand or Bronzelit, $79.
FAST FACT:
Cleopatra reputedly maintained her
beautiful skin by bathing in goat’s milk!
Q:
A:
STILL-LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES MOFFATT.
Can I still go in the sun if I use a
whitening cream?
“All of the hard work that you
put into fading brown spots and
making your skin tone more even can be
erased with even one day of extended
sun exposure without protection,” says
Dr Adam Geyer, Kiehl’s international
dermatologist. “This is true whether you
are using at-home preparations, getting
chemical peels and microdermabrasion, or
having brown spots lasered off. You can
still be outdoors, but rigorous precautions
need to be taken.”
Try: Kiehl’s Dermatologist Solutions
Surface Brightening Exfoliator, $55, and
Clarifying Whitening Toner, $63.
Q:
A:
I have heard that ‘fillers’ are a
popular cosmetic procedure to
look younger. What are they?
“A filler is just as it states — a
substance that is injected into
the body to fill a space,” says Dr Tobias
Pincock MBBS FRACS, a member of the
Australasian Academy of Facial Plastic
Surgery. “As we get older, most changes
in the face are due to either movement
or gradual atrophy (shrinkage) of naturally
occurring fat in the face. That’s what
gives a baby’s plumper face its youthful
appearance. When the natural fat shrinks
away or moves, it leaves the skin
without as much support so wrinkles
form or it can give a hollowed-out skeletal
appearance which people associate with
age.” Filling in these areas allows a surgeon
to “recreate the appearance of youth”.
Fillers can also be used to enhance areas
that need additional plumping such as lips
or cheek bones, or to restore contour to an
area of the face that’s been damaged by
disease or surgery.
www.sydneyfacialplastics.com.au
Running
late with
guests at
the door?
Use a shower gel
from your favourite
fragrance range
to layer your
fragrance and leave
a lingering scent in
your bathroom long
after you’ve left it!
Try: Narciso
Rodriguez
Essence Scented
Shower Gel, $69.
BIN YOUR BEAUTY
BUYS WHEN:
• M
ascara becomes dry and clumpy
and application is difficult. “Think 3–6
months only!” says Lancôme’s national
make-up expert, Michael Brown.
• L
ipstick is no longer smooth “or looks
like it’s been run over by a truck!”
says Brown. “Surely that is not
hygienic, right?”
• F
oundation discolours or smells
strange. “Or the product has
separated because of lack of use.”
Q:
A:
What is the difference between
Vitamin A, C and E in skincare?
Choosing the right vitamins depends
on your skin type and concerns, says
Monodermà trainer Danielle Sinclair. “Vitamin
A is perfect in treating fine lines, sun
damage, acne and skin in need of a boost.
Vitamin C will give you a luminous glow, is
great for pigmentation and radiance boosting.
And Vitamin E soothes and calms irritated or
sensitive skin and is very healing.”
Try: Monodermà C10, $80.
Winter 89
FAST
FACT:
One of the latest
buzz words in beauty
ingredients is vegetal
collagen. This protein
solution is obtained
by fermenting
soybeans under sterile
conditions and is the
wonder ingredient
in Bakel’s Collagen
Firming Formula. The
makers claim it will
help skin maintain
suppleness, as well
as helping to calm and
hydrate the skin.
Try: Bakel Collagen
Firming Formula, $190.
Place a tiny bit of olive
oil on the inside of
a cut open shiitake
mushroom and place
under your eyes for an
instant eye lift.
tip!
To test if your skin is too sensitive
for a make-up brush, try the bristles
against your skin before buying.
The bristles should feel soft, not scratchy
or rough, advises Bobbi Brown, make-up
artist and founder of Bobbi Brown
Cosmetics. If you prefer to apply make-up
with the fingertips, “the heat from your
hands warms the product, allowing it to
spread and blend more easily.“
Q:
A:
How can I wear neon colour
without looking like Boy George
circa 1982?
Pair neon coloured eyeliner with
neutral tones to create a subtle
intensity along the lash line. Prefer to
make lips your focus? Mix a bright lipstick
with a clear gloss to create a soft yet
vibrant look. This is a big trend for the
autumn season.
Try: MAC lipstick in Show Orchid, $35.
WAX ON. WAX OFF. If you’ve smudged your mascara, don’t rub at it! Let
it dry and brush it off with a cotton bud. Mascara is made from lots of
different waxes and a film that, when dry, is easy to remove from skin.
Q:
A:
TRUE/FALSE?
top 3
Q:
A:
How much perfume is the
perfect amount?
“A fragrance should not impose
too strongly on one’s neighbours
in the office, train, beach, restaurant or
bedroom,” says Françoise Donche, the
brand ’nose’ at Givenchy. Treat it like a diet
with everything in moderation, she advises.
“Limit the spraying to a minimum — two
for example — or try the hair-spraying
approach. It is discreet and intimate.”
make-up artist tricks
1
If your skin’s looking better than
usual you need less foundation, says
make-up artist Elsa Morgan. Mix half what
you’d normally use with a moisturiser or
even an illuminating lotion.
2
Most bronzers have too much
red in them to look truly natural
for contouring; instead, contour with
foundation a shade darker than usual.
3
Illuminating concealers are fabulous
for brightening shadow areas such
as under the eye and around the nose. For
blemishes and broken capillaries, stick to
classic concealers that camouflage flaws.
90
Winter
Using an EDP of one scent and a cream
of another causes sensory overload? TRUE The EDP will always overpower the
body cream so if you invest in a beautiful
fragrance it is always best to wear it with
its own complementary products. When
there are too many scents competing,
the result is a recipe for a headache!
Are in-salon chemical
peels safer than
at-home products?
“Chemical peels are
popular for anyone who
wants to improve the clarity, radiance
and texture of their skin. While most acid
peels performed by dermatologists are
safe and very effective, they can cause
irritation, make the skin sun sensitive and
are expensive,” says Alison McBurnie,
Clinique’s national education manager. “With
Turnaround Radiance Peel, you can achieve
results comparable to a low level (30 per
cent) chemical peel without leaving your
bathroom.” McBurnie says that with weekly
use, this system will help leave skin radiant,
minimise the look of pores and soften the
appearance of fine lines.
Try: Clinique Turnaround Radiance Peel, $110.
tip!
Too flat out for a facial? “Giving yourself
a weekly exfoliation and mask treatment
will keep the skin looking healthy and
glowing, in between your facial treatments,”
recommends Lauren Murcia of Lauren
Murcia Skin, Body & Soul.
BEAUTY
Q:
How can
my man get
the best out of his
moisturiser?
Debbie
D’Aquino, vice
president of global
product development
at Clinique,
shares some skin
preparation pointers
for your man:
A:
• U
se shaving
cream, gel or
foam. Without it,
your razor will drag,
rather than glide
across the skin.
The more it drags, the harder you will
press, and the more razor burn, bumps,
in-grown hairs and cuts you will be likely
to experience.
Q:
A:
Where is the best place to spritz
my scent?
Rather than spritzing randomly, aim
for the different pulse points on
your body. In effect, they provide a little
’nest’ for drops of scent, and the warmth
of the skin assists with both diffusing the
fragrance and helping it last longer. Prime
positions include the back of the neck, back
of the ears, inside the décolletage, back of
the knees and the inside of the ankles.
Try: Badgley Mischka Couture, $170
(100ml EDP).
• D
on’t lazy shave. To get the perfect
shave you must add hot water. When hair
absorbs hot water, it becomes softer and
easier to cut.
Q:
A:
Can I use the one make-up brush
for eyes and cheeks?
“Brushes are designed for a specific
part of the face, so it’s best to use
different brushes for your eyes and cheeks,”
says make-up artist Bobbi Brown. “The
small, fluffy bristles of an eye shadow brush
pick up just the right amount of eye shadow
for your lid, while the wide, rounded shape of
a blush brush applies the perfect amount of
powder blush onto the apples of the cheeks,
for a seamless and natural finish.“
Try: Bobbi Brown Blush Brush, $90.
Always test
foundation along
the jawline and
forehead — not
the back of the
hand — to match
the best shade.
• M
oisturise. Shaving removes surface
layers of the skin so hours after a shave,
your skin will feel drier due to the
disruption of the skin’s barrier.
Try: Clinique Skin Supplies for Men Age
Defense Hydrator SPF15, $75.
DID YOU KNOW?
Cellulite is less about weight than it is about lifestyle. Poor diet, stress, drinking,
smoking and lack of exercise all progressively encourage the advance of cellulite and sagging skin.
Q:
A:
My skin is so fresh
after exercise.
How can I recreate this?
This vitality in the
skin is a result of
pumping circulation and
blood flow close to the
surface. The bad news is
that this can't be bottled,
but Clarins Younger Longer
Balm may have a similar
effect by acting on micro
circulation and nerve ending
networks, says Rebecca
Nicholls, head of education
at Trimex. “By optimising
the activity of cells,
it enables the
whole skin system
to function better.”
Try: Clarins
Younger Longer
Balm, $142.
>
Give good lash
by choosing your
mascara wisely,
advises Michael
Brown, national
make-up expert at
Lancôme.
“The actual brush of the mascara has a
lot to do with the result you are after. The
fatter or wider apart the bristles on the
brush, the more volume your lash will get
as a result.“ Conversely, thinner and closer
set bristles deliver more length.
Try: Lancôme Hypnôse Original
in Noir, $52.
Winter 91
Q:
The seasons are
changing, and so is my
skin! Do I need to switch up
my skincare every time the
weather changes?
The best investment is
a multipurpose cream
that is suitable for all skin types
and designed to strengthen and
nourish skin in any climate. Try: Dior Capture XP Ultimate
Wrinkle Restoring Serum,
$193, and Capture Totale
Multi-Perfection Radiance
Enhancer, $210.
tip!
A:
“Using a foundation brush uses less
product than if you blend in with your
fingers,” advises Dominique Papadopoulous,
the Paris-based make-up training coordinator
for Chanel. ”And if you apply your moisturiser
with the brush first and then apply your
foundation with the same brush, it allows the
foundation to be more malleable across the
skin, achieving a more polished finish.”
Q:
A:
Is my shower gel strong enough
for my boyfriend’s skin?
Men’s skin has a tendency to be
thicker and oilier, says Matthew
Teri, vice president of corporate product
development for the Estée Lauder
Companies. “Cleansing and purifying the skin
is critical to removing dirt and sebum from
lodging and clogging pores, and keeping skin
healthy looking,” says Teri. So for best results,
use a product that’s designed for men.
Try: Lab Series Active Body Wash, $35.
“Concealer follows
foundation,”
says make-up artist
Elsa Morgan.
“Blending foundation over concealer will
blend away the coverage, so it’s best to
apply foundation first, then carefully apply
concealer. Be sure to do so in pressing
motions without dragging or rubbing, and
then apply powder to set.”
DID YOU KNOW?
Skincare in capsule form offers the exact dosage required and ensures that any
potent ingredients remain at their full potential until they land on your skin.
TRUE/FALSE?
tip!
Go for three-in-one solutions when
you can. Apply lipstick at your desk or
on the run by using one with a mirror
attached and keep lips soft with a formula
that moisturises.
Try: Guerlain Rouge
G in Ginger, $68.
Celebrities really do develop and wear
their own scents.
TRUE Word has it that Sarah Jessica
Parker attended meetings with perfumers
armed with a selection of scents that she
likes. Jennifer Lopez works with colour
swatches while Victoria Beckham works
on all the scents in the Beckham stable.
“She is incredibly hands on,” says a Coty
fragrances insider.
Apply concealer
to highlight, not
hide, tired eyes.
Cult favourite YSL Touche Eclat
Radiant Touch works to bring
light, luminosity and radiance
to the eye area and other parts
of the face. Apply three to four
brush strokes under each eye
and then blend with fingertips.
Also apply on the eyelid and
just under the brows for a
highlighting lift.
Try: Yves Saint Laurent Touche
Eclat Radiant Touch, $72.
92
Winter
Q:
A:
Are organic and
biodynamic skincare
the same thing?
No. “The key difference
is that organic is about
nutrition and plant health, with
a major focus on sustainable
farming practices,” explains
Florian Wolf, head of research
and development for Jurlique.
“Biodynamic focuses on
creating a nutrient-rich,
self-sustaining farm in
perpetuity through plant
preparations and farming
according to the moon
and planetary cycles.”
Try: Jurlique Biodynamic
Beauty Serum, $85.
Winter comes with wet
weather and dry skin.
More indoor heating and less outdoor
activity can lead to parched complexions.
Counteract the effects through your diet
by drinking pure water and by eating leafy
green vegetables and fruit to maintain the
fatty acids in your body.
BEAUTY
Q:
A:
Forget crow’s feet,
I’ve got a turkey
neck! What can I do?
Apply a firming
serum in light,
upward strokes to work
against gravity. “The skin
that is starting to go a little
south will tighten up and
look years younger,” says
Dr Jason Rubin, medical
director of Belli Skin Care.
Try: Belli Body Firming
Serum, $65.
>
WE LOVE
THESE
TRENDS FOR
WINTER…
Farewell the dewy look and perfect a
matte finish.
Skin is clean and flawless with bronzer on
the backburner, as porcelain complexions
dominate.
Striking jewel tones are right for eyes,
teamed with nearly nude lips.
Try: Revlon Matte Eye Shadow in Venetian
Blue, $19.95.
FAST FACT:
The skin around the eyes is thinner
and more fragile and contains fewer oil
glands than the rest of the face, making
it especially vulnerable to ageing.
Wine shades on lips add romantic
luxury. This lip look is best teamed with a
subtle eye as the lips command attention.
Try: Revlon Crème Gloss in (from left)
Pink Cami, Strike a Rose or Patent Leather
Pink, $23.95.
SLOW DOWN! Go slowly when applying your mascara to get a more consistent amount of
product onto your lash, meaning less clumping. If your lashes are sticking together, you have
probably applied too much or used too many small, fast strokes.
Q:
A:
My mother told me never to use
soap on my face. Why is this?
Many soaps are too harsh for the
fragile skin on the face because
of their chemical-based ingredients. If
you do like to lather up, go for one that is
handmade using ingredients like goat’s
milk and olive oil. The pH level of goat’s
milk is very similar to human skin and is
therefore gentle and nourishing.
Try: Billie Goat Soap in
Rose Geranium, $8.95.
tip!
Keep your facial maintenance monthly.
”Anything under three weeks is too
often and will overstimulate and
overexfoliate. The only exception is
when you have a skin concern that
is being actively treated by your
therapist,” advises Lauren Murcia of
Lauren Murcia Skin, Body & Soul.
Let your scent linger
longer by spraying it
into your hair.
Hair is so porous that it holds scent
sensationally well! But beware: overspritzing can be damaging, so save it for
special occasions.
Try: Narciso Rodriguez For Her
Hair Mist, $78.
TRUE/FALSE?
Teeth age as quickly as the rest of you.
TRUE says dental surgeon Nick Hocking.
“Wear or ‘TSL’ (tooth surface loss) is the
biggest ageing issue for teeth,” he says.
Avoid it by minimising acid — caused
by reflux, lemons or frequent soft drink
consumption — in the mouth, and by
brushing gently. Aggressive brushing
or abrasive toothpastes can cause
sensitivity, abrasion lesions or grooves
on the side necks of the teeth, as well as
possible yellowing of the necks.
tip!
Keep cosmetics in the closet. Always store
your products away from direct sunlight,
especially skincare and foundation, which can
have active ingredients. A cool, dry place —
like your bathroom cupboard — is best.
Winter 93