Download Report

WHEN I FIRST BEGAN TO CUT HAIR,
I WAS TAUGHT THAT HAIRSTYLISTS DO
NOT USE CLIPPERS TO CUT MEN'S HAIR
SHORT. I NEEDED TO LEARN HOW TO
SCISSOR OVER-COMB!
That has stayed with me throughout my career. I mean, I was a professional hairstylist!
I am glad that I have stuck to that fundamental principal in the work that I do but I was conflicted
when I saw a move towards barbered hair in the styles that I saw… and liked. And so began the
need to change my attitude, or lose my clients to that other profession, barbering. It took me a
while to warm up to the idea, it took me longer to show a clipper cut on-stage, and even longer
to share it with you, globally, in print. What were my peers going to say?
What does that tell you about our industry? It was ingrained into my very being – I DO NOT
do clipper cuts. Well, here it is, my first collection showcasing a clipper cut. Yes, I changed
my attitude and so can you. My first cut of this collection is dedicated to all those hairstylists
still hanging on to the attitude that professional hairstylists do not do clipper cuts. I will say
however that the only reason that the clipper has come out for me is to cut hair to the skin.
The rest is scissor over comb as that for me is still the best finish I can give my clients.
I believe that one must learn the craft in order to be the best they can be – don’t replace you
or your skill with a tool. Use the tool to enhance your work.
I hope you enjoy the look and the collection. Here is Rugged and Refined.
INSPIRATION
SHAPE
Behind the looks
RUGGED
TBASICE STYLE
X TU R E
PROFESSIONAL
FU NDAMENTALS
REFINED
INSPIRATION
RUGGED AND REFINED ARE TWO WORDS INTERTWINED
IN MEN’S STYLE. SENSCIENCE PROFORMANCE
HAIR ARTISTIC DIRECTOR LANCE BLANCHETTE WAS
INSPIRED TO CAPTURE THIS ATTITUDE IN HIS LATEST
COLLECTION, BOTH IN THE EXECUTION OF THE WORK
AND IN STYLING EACH LOOK.
As we slowly climb out of the latest economic challenges, versatility in one’s look remains
paramount. Barbershops continue to grow in popularity, as clean-ups between full service
appointments and getting more for your money are still on people’s minds. But no one wants
to compromise on style.
Understanding this, Blanchette looked to the runways for inspiration. He found it in versatile,
ready to wear fashion with a commitment to style from Dolce and Gabbana and Missoni. In
the words of Angela Missoni, creative director for Missoni, before Milan Fashion Week: “He’s
an urban man who has a double life, who escapes from the city to find the perfect wave.
Instead of going jogging, they go surfing. It’s cool.”
For Blanchette, it was as much an attitude as it was a look.
LOOK 1 - LUC
Quadrant one – short perimeter
01 Before.
02 Section the hair as shown.
Use this sectioning pattern as
the shape that will build the sides
and back of the head. Everything
below the sectioning are
quadrants one and two.
03 Following the section pattern,
remove excess hair with your
cutting comb and clippers.
04 Use your clippers (in the
shortest setting – no guard)
and cut away the hair up to the
temple (quadrant one). Follow
the sectioning pattern to the
nape being careful to leave length
for quadrant two, as shown in
subsequent images.
Quadrant two – mid length sides and back
06 Blend out any solid lines using
clippers on mid depth no guard.
6
10 Clipper quadrant one.
11 Scissor over comb
quadrant two.
08 Side one finished.
05 Scissor over comb quadrant
two to the desired length using
your cutting comb from the front
hairline to the nape - being careful
to pay attention to the sectioning
pattern and shadows that are
created.
Repeat side two
09 Repeat on the second side.
07 Fine tune scissor over comb
using your barber comb.
Quadrant three - back
12 Finished quadrants one
and two.
13 Separate the back of the head
from the top just above the ears.
Part the back of the head from
the crown to the nape. Take the
first section at the center back
and cut a square shape from the
crown to the nape. Pay attention
to the length as it should be
complimentary to the lengths in
the first two quadrants.
14 Overdirect subsequent
sections to the last guideline
until you run out of hair.
15 Crosscheck. You should have
a square shape.
16 Repeat on both sides of
quadrant three.
7
Beard
Quadrant four – top and front
17 Use the square, top section of
quadrant three as your guideline
for the top/front.
18 Continue to cut a square
shape moving towards the
front hairline.
19 Crosscheck.
21 Fine-tune.
22 Fine-tune the back by
pointcutting the disconnection
of quadrant three.
23 Fine-tuning the hair line.
8
20 Fine tune by point-cutting into
the perimeter.
01 Fine tuning the length.
02 Fine-tuning the shape using
a razor.
03 Continue.
04 Continue.
9
THE FIRST LOOK IS A CONTINUATION OF WHAT HAS BEEN
SEEN IN MEN’S STYLE OVER THE LAST COUPLE OF YEARS
AND IS MEANT AS A TURNING POINT IN BRINGING SKILLS
OFTEN RESERVED FOR THE BARBERS OF YESTERDAY
INTO THE HANDS OF HAIRDRESSERS TODAY.
THE FUNDAMENTALS OF CLIPPER CUTTING AND STRONG
LINES ARE BROUGHT TOGETHER TO GIVE VERSATILITY
AND STYLE FOR THE MAN OF TOMORROW. INSPIRED BY
DOLCE & GABANNA’S CLEAN, CRISP LINES, REMINISCENT
OF THE DARK SIDE OF ITS FASHION TREND.
10
STYLE 1
STYLE 2
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Massage Reform Styling Crème into the hair. Blow dry the
hair using a Denman brush or your fingers to give a loose, relaxed finish to the
hair. Fine tune the look with Shape Hard Wax to add a bit more shine. Warm a
very small amount of wax in your hands and apply sparingly to give the hair both
a matte and shiny finish.
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Mix Design Styling Gel and Reform Styling Creme in your
hands. Massage into the hair and blow-dry with a Denman brush. Start with the
sides to smooth them into position. Move to the top to build the shape, staying
clear of the disconnected sides. Finish the sides with a very small amount of
Shape Hard Wax for the right amount of shine. Remember to soften the wax in
your hands first.
STYLE 3
STYLE 4
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Apply Design Styling Gel to the hair and blow-dry with a
Denman brush. Start with the sides to smooth them into position. Move to the
top to build the shape, staying clear of the disconnected sides.
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Warm Shape Hard Wax in your hands and apply to the hair.
Blow-dry with a Denman brush, starting with the sides to smooth them into
position. Move to the top to build the shape, staying clear of the disconnected
sides. Assess the finish and apply more Shape Hard Wax if required. Let the
hair cool down to lock the style into place.
LOOK 2 - NOLAN
01 Before.
02 Section the hair as shown.
03 Starting above the ear, take
the first section and cut the hair
to the desired length and angle.
For thick hair, layer a bit more; for
curly hair, leave a bit more length.
04 Using a stationary guideline,
over-direct each section to the
first guideline.
05 Over-direct all the hair from
the front hairline to the first
guideline.
06 Working towards the back,
over-direct each section to the
first guideline above the ear until
you reach the middle back of the
head or until you run out of hair.
07 Be careful when working
below the ear. Pay attention and
follow your guideline to keep a
square shape.
08 Repeat on the opposite side.
09 Repeat on the opposite side.
10 Repeat on the opposite side.
11 Begin in the center back of
the head.
12 Take the first section in
the center back from crown
to nape and cut the hair to the
predetermined length and angles.
13 Using a stationary guideline,
over-direct each section to the
first guideline. Over-direct until
you reach the back of the ear or
until you run out of hair. Repeat
on the other side of the back of
the head.
14 Using the back corner as a
guideline for the top of the hair,
cut the first guideline of the top.
15 Over-direct each section to
the last section. Be careful not
to cut into the sides. For a more
carefree style, use a stationary
section.
16 Move towards the front hairline continuing to over-direct to
the last section.
Personalization
17 Continue to over-direct to the
last section.
16
18 Free-hand cut the fringe to
give a relaxed, ready to wear
style.
19 Point cut to fine tune the
perimeter if desired.
Personalization
20 Point cut the perimeter if
desired.
17
“HE’S AN URBAN MAN WHO HAS A DOUBLE LIFE, WHO
ESCAPES FROM THE CITY TO FIND THE PERFECT WAVE.
INSTEAD OF GOING JOGGING, THEY GO SURFING. IT’S
COOL.” THESE ARE THE WORDS OF ANGELA MISSONI,
CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR MISSONI, BEFORE MILAN
FASHION WEEK AND THE INSPIRATION OF THIS LOOK.
STRONG MASCULINE LINES WERE USED TO CREATE A
LOOK THAT LIVES IN THE MOMENT AND STYLES WITH
EASE, IF HE WANTS TO STYLE IT! VERSATILITY IN LIFE
AND LIFE LIVED IN PURSUIT OF PERSONAL BESTS –
DEFINED BY YOUR STYLE.
STYLE 1
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Apply Design Styling Gel to the hair. Roughly blow dry the
hair using a Denman brush or your fingers dependent on the hair’s texture. Flat
iron the hair to give the hair a smoother, straighter finish. Fine tune the hair with
Construct Molding Paste for a matte finish.
18
19
STYLE 2
STYLE 3
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Mix Reform Styling Crème and Design Styling Gel in your
hands and massage into the hair. Dry the hair using your dryer and a diffuser.
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Mix Shape Hard Wax and Design Styling Gel in your hands
and massage into the hair. Dry the hair using your dryer and your hands to give
it a loose, carefree feeling. Fine tune the hair with another small amount of
Shape Hard Wax.
20
21
LOOK 3 - RIO
22
01 Before.
02 Assess the hair and section
the hair as shown, from the front
hair line to mid way between
the occipital and the crown
dependent on the natural fall
of the hair.
03 Opposite side.
04 Section the hair starting
at the front of the hairline and
position yourself to cut large
chunks out of the hair.
05 Remove large chunks out of
the hair section by section.
06 Take a new section, being
careful to “not use“ the previous
guideline. Continue to take out
large chunks being consistently
inconsistent with the position and
the depth that you cut them.
07 Continue to work around the
head in the same manner until you
finish the back sides.
08 Reposition yourself to cut the
first guideline on the top of the
head. This will be taken at the
back of the head where the top
meets the sides. This area will be
cut with a solid line.
09 Cut a solid square shape.
10 Overdirect each section to
the last section as you travel
towards the front hairline.
11 Crosscheck the top.
It should be a clear crisp line.
Also crosscheck the sides, looking
for a loosely connected external
shape. It should be consistently
square but carefree.
12 Finish the hairline using
your razor.
Option: For a rougher, looser
style, travel with your guideline
until you reach the top of the ear
– reassess and overdirect to a
stationary guide.
23
RIO INSPIRED THE RUGGED IN THIS COLLECTION A CASUAL STYLISH LOOK, CAREFREE OF PRETENSE AND
CONTROL. THE LOOK IS INSPIRED BY READY TO WEAR
STYLE AND THE RUNWAYS OF D&G. AS YSL ONCE SAID,
“FASHION COMES AND GOES BUT STYLE IS FOREVER!”
YOU KNOW WHAT LOOKS BEST AND EMBRACING THAT
STYLE WILL GO A LONG WAY.
24
25
STYLE 1
STYLE 2
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Massage Reform Styling Crème into the hair. Blow dry the
hair using a Denman brush to give a loose, relaxed finish to the hair. Fine tune
the hair to add texture using Construct Molding Paste for a matte finish or a
small amount of Shape Hard Wax for a bit more shine.
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Apply Design Styling Gel to the hair. Roughly blow dry the
hair using a Denman brush or your fingers dependent on the hair’s texture. Flat
iron the hair to give the hair a smoother, straighter finish. Fine tune the hair
with Construct Molding Paste for a matte finish.
26
27
STYLE 3
STYLE 4
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Mix Reform Styling Crème and Design Styling Gel in your
hands and massage into the hair. Dry the hair using your dryer and a diffuser.
FOR A BIT MORE SHINE ON TEXTURED HAIR FOR MEN
28
Shampoo the hair with Energy Revitalizing Shampoo and apply Actif Mist
Nourishing Spray. Mix Shape Hard Wax and Design Styling Gel in your hands
and massage into the hair. Dry the hair using your dryer and a diffuser. Fine
tune the hair with another small amount of Shape Hard Wax.
29
TOOLS OF THE TRADE
• COMBS
Barber Comb
Cutting Comb
Clipper Comb
Wide Tooth Comb
• SHEARS
• CLIPPERS
• RAZOR
(with or without guard – dependent on skills and laws in your area)
•BLOW DRYER
INSPIRATION
•TALCUM POWDER
Regular Clipper with adjustable
blade trimmer
•DENMAN AND
MASON PEARSON BRUSH
• MASCULINE CUTTING CAPE
•CLIPS
• NECK BRUSH
“Once again, I look forward to seeing you
make this collection your own. Post your
work at @PROformanceHAIR on Instagram
and Twitter and I can follow your work!”
NOTES:
Proformancehaircare.com
Proformance by ©Senscience Intl., Dist. Division ZII, Darien, CT 06820
HAIR: Lance Blanchette PHOTO: Justin Brimacombe Printed in Canada 02405