1. food and drink
2. barbecues and grilling

* • * Morning News • Wednesday, May 21,1997- l i e
ACCINT/OUTDOOR COOWHQ SEASON
Backyard bliss: How to pair grilled food and dry table wines
The Btkimore Sun
Walk through any suburban neiffaborbood at dinner time on any wefknad
evening this time of year. Hoist your honker
to the skies and smell the burning charcoal
and dripping, burning fat
No doubt about it, it* grilling season.
Following the annual migration of food
preparation to the outdoors is the perennial
question: How shall these delicacies be
washed down?
There is much to be said for that noble
beverage beer on such occasions — especially as June gives way to July and August
And lemonade, the homemade variety with
little bits of fresh-squeezed lemon floating
in it, has undeniable charms.
' But no beverage on the planet so perfectly complements dinner as a well-matched,
dry table wine.
Meats that come hot to the table from
charcoal and gas grills have an affinity for
certain types of wine. These wines are not
the most famous or popular varietals.
Cabernet sauvigaon, merlot and chardounay
art wonderful gripe varieties that yield
delicious wines, but they have no properties
that make them especially well-suited to
serve with grilled foods.
The types of wines I nominate as Grilled
Food All-Stars Include whites, reds and the
often-scorned pink wines.
Among white wines, sauvignon blanes
stand out as an especially fine matchup
with grilled fish and shellfish, with the
exception of tuna steaks. Sauvignon blanes
have a unique smoky quality that seems to
marry with the smoky flavors imparted by
the pill. Usually, these wines have more
lively acidity than chardonnay — a virtue as
the weather warms up.
Sauvignon blanes come from many
sources'. France has the classic sauvignon
blanc-based wines of Sancerre and PouillyFiune in the Loire, as well as a host of new
offerings from the south of the country.
Chile, Australia, New Zealand and
Washington state are producing excellent
versions — often at very attractive prices.
I continue to be most impressed by the
Look before you cook:
Books for the griller
The Associated Press
There are several new cookbooks
for both the novice and the veteran
griller.
- • Michael McLaughlin discovered
the pleasures of grilling on a tiny
U&achi tucked into the fireplace of
GSTBrooklyn, N.Y., apartment His
new cookbook, "All on the Grill"
(HarperCollins, $22.50) contains 170
recipes for a complete meal, from
starters to desserts.
In the introduction he writes,
properly exploited, the grill is a
broiler, a stove-top burner, an oven
and the single best way of getting
flavor, color and texture into the
most kinds of food with the least
amount of fuss and fat I know of."
' H i s cookbook features grill
menus that include appetizers,
main dishes, sauces, vegetables and
breads. An example: Deviled Game
Hens, Tangy Cherry Tomato and
Grilled Zucchini Salad, Grilled
Sweet Potato Wedges, Iced Tea and
Lemon Sherbet with Fresh
Strawberries.
r Whenever possible, recipes are
designed to let the reader know
what steps can be done ahead.
• Chris Schlesinger and John
WUloughby, authors of the awardwinning "The Thrill of the Grill,"
Have a new cookbook, "License to
Grill" (William Morrow, $27.50).
"Schlesinger and Willoughby have
added several new, lighter dimensions to their grilling canon, with
more grilled vegetables, more
seafood, more pasta and more grillable fruit.
p i n addition to explaining grilling
basics — and providing 200 sizzling
recipes for entrees, high-heat dishes, side dishes, beverages and
desserts — the authors have dedicated a chapter to Hobo Pack
Cookery (otherwise known as Boy
Scout cooking), with recipes like
Eggplant and Tomato Hobo Pack
with Lemon and Garlic and Sausage
Hobo Pack with Onions, Peppers
and Green Grapes.
The Hobo Pack recipes include
directions for wrapping the food in
aluminum foil for cooking directly
ejHkhe coals. Suggested accompaniments for the traditional ground
beef and vegetables Hobo Pack are
feS'more, soda and a peanut butter
cup for dessert
-. e"Hot Barbecue" (Ten Speed
Press, $17«5) is the fburtli installment in Hugh Carpenter and Teri
Sandisonfc "Hot" series. Each
recjpe provides instructions tor barM n , smoking, broiling or roast- .
&'so the reader can choose a
Method appropriate for the time of
the year and the amount of time
available for preparing the dish.
; Illustrated with fall-color pho-
tographs, "Hot Barbecue" includes
recipes for $hriiip with Herb
Butter, Spicy Szechwan Chicken,
Southern Pulled Pork, Balsamic-Soy
Rack of Lamb and Southwest
Burgers.
• George Hirsch, public television's popular outdoor chef, wants
backyard grillers to "Know Your
Fire" (G.P. Putnam's Sons, $23.95).
Written with Marie Bianco, his new
cookbook has shopping tips, techniques of seasoning and grilling,
preparation tips and over 175 original recipes.
Among his recipes: Margarita
Sttrimp, Stuffed and Rolled
Flounder, Roasted Vegetable
Medley and Stuffed Portobello
Mushrooms.
e Try the "Steak Lover's
Cookbook" by William Rice
(Workman Publishing, $13.96). Rice,
a food journalist for over 30 years,
has filled his cookbook with 00
recipes for steak, and 50 more
recipes for sides, starters and
desserts.
This cookbook highlights the
Best-Ever recipe for each type of
cut, plus dozens of tempting alternatives. Featured are recipes for PanBroiled Pqrterhouse with ShallotLemon Butter, The True Steak au
Poivre and Wine-Broiled Sirloin.
Rice has also included recipes for
steak fries, onion rings and
Mississippi Mud Pie.
• "The Steaklover's Companion:
170 Savory Recipes from America's
Greatest Chefs" by Frederick J.
Simon (HarperCollins, $20). Simon
is the fourth-generation owner of
Omaha Steaks, a purveyor and marketer of premium steaks. Included
are recipes and side dishes from
chefs Paul Prudhomme, Susanna
Foo, Roy Yamaguchi and Jimmy
Schmidt
e "Healthy Cooking for people
who dont have time to Cook" by
Jeanne Jones (Rodale Press, $27SB).
Jones is known for her "Cook It
Light" column and more than two
dozen cookbooks. This latest cookbook includes 200 recipes that can
be prepared in about 15 minutes.
e "Steven Raichlen's High-Flavor
Low-Fat Desserts" by Steven
Raichlen (Viking, $15.95). With
recipes for cakes, pies and cheesecake; pastries and crepes;
meringues and souffles; fruit
desserts and much more. Raichlen
is the author of more than a doten
cookbooks including "High-Flavor,
Low-Fat Cooking" and "High Flavor,
Low-Fat Vegetarian Cooking."
variety and the quality of the sauvignon
Manes betag produced in Cali/ornia-~
many of them under the name ftune blanc.
More and more, California vintners are
taking new directions with sauvignon blanc
Instead of just trying to ape French styles.
We're seeing more sauvisjion blanes fermented in the barrel or blended with
Semillon, as is done with the best white
Bordeaux.
The result is fuller wines that can stand
up better to the flavors of grilled food. That
is why I prefer a full-bodied California
sauvignon blanc from a producer such as
Matanm Creek to a Sancerre with grilled
salmon or swordfish.
Other, lesser-known white wines that
deserve consideration with grilled foods
include dry California or Washington
Chenin blanc, bone-dry Alsace Muscat and
some California Viogniers and Marsannes.
For grilled chicken, as with other grilled
poultry, almost invariably. I choose a red.
The kind of red will vary based on the marinade or sauce.
With a basic Provence-style marinade
(olive oil; lemon juice and herbs), chicken
will match well with a lifhter red from the .
south of France, a Beaujolais-VUlsges or an
inexpensive pinot noir. A more tangy, spicy
marinade would suggest a light-style red
xlnfandel (not one ofthose Sonoma County
blockbusters), a Chianti or a Cotes-duRhone. Add some raspberries to the marinade and you might want to choose a more
concentrated Beaujolais from Morgon or
Moulin-a-Vent
If you like to drench your grilled chicken
in barbecue sauce, you'll need a more hefty,
coarse red to standup to the flavors. An
Australian Shiraz or a California field
blend such as Cline's Cotes d'Oakley would
probably work as well as anything that isn't
beer.
Grilled tuna steaks are red meat from the
sea. They positively demand a red — one
that is neither too heavy nor too light For
me, the grape variety that strikes just the
right note is "mourvedre" — an increasingly
popular grape among California vintners.
My first choice, however, is a moderately
well-aged Bandol, a mourvedre-based wine
T-bone Steak With Umt y
Gallic and Oregano Mofo
Chef Robert MeGrath, chef de
cuisine at Windows on the
Green in Scottsdale, Ariz., created the following reiipe for Tbone steak; a perfect dish for
backyard grilling.
Windows on the Green is The
Phoenician resort's Southwestinspired restaurant MeGrath,
who attended the Cordon Bleu
in Paris and the Culinary
Institute of America in Hyde
Park, N.Y., likes to use flavors
that sharply contrast with each
other, yet go well together.
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For the mojo: Whisk all of the
ingredients together. Marinate
the steak in the mojo for two
hours prior to grilling.
For the garnish: Saute the
chopped yellow onion, garlic
and habanero in the butter until
just tender. Add the macaroni,
jack cheese and poblano puree.
Mix thoroughly and season to
taste.
Grill the steak to the desired
temperature and spoon a little
of the mojo over it Grill the
green onions. Serve the steak on
the macaroni with the green
onions on top of the steak.
Makes 4 servings.
Note: Large poblano chilies
are toasted directly on gas or
electric burners and turned
with metal tongs. They are toasted until well blackened all over,
then placed in a plastic bag or
bowl covered with a kitchen
towel to "sweat" so their skins
will loosen in the steam they
emit
food in glass or crockery dishes
or in heavy-duty resealable plastic bags.
e If you plan to use part of the
marinade as a table sauce,
reserve and set it aside at the
beginning of the recipe before
adding the poultry, meat or
seafood. Marinades that have
been in contact with raw meat,
poultry or seafood must be
boiled for at least one minute
before using as a table sauce or
a grilling sauce that will be
applied during the last five minutes of cooking time. Dont
attempt to save and reuse a
marinade.
e Marinating times: Delicate
seafood such as flounder or scallops, 15 minutes; stronger
seafood such as tuna, shrimp
and salmon, 30 minutes; skinless, boneless chicken breasts or
turkey cutlets, up to 3 hours;
skin-on chicken parts, 3 to 24
hours; whole chickens or turkey
breast, 4 to 24 hours; beefsteaks,
pork or lamb chops, 3 to 24
hours; beef or pork roast, boneless leg of lamb, 3 to 24 hours.
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Chili Spiced Steak Wraps are a
delicious main dish; perfect for a
backyard meal. The beef flank
steak used in this dish is grilled
or broiled, then wrapped in flour
tortillas. The recipe is from
Melanie Barnard, author of
"Marinades" (HarperPerennial,
$10).
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In large, shallow nonaluminum
baking dish or plastic bag, combine all ingredients except steak
and tortillas. Add steak; turn to
coat Cover, or close bag, and
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marinate in the refrigerator,
turning occasionally, 3 to 24
hours. Remove steak from marinade, reserving marinade.
Grill or broil steak, turning
once, until done.
Meanwhile, in small saucepan,
bring reserved marinade to a
boil; boil 1 minute. To serve, thinly slice steak and serve in warm
^
flour tortillas with boiled marinade and, if desired, grilled red
and green bell pepper rings.
Makes 6 servings.
Recipe from: Wish-Bone
For a free marinating and
grilling cookbook, send your
name and complete address to: ..
Wish-Bone Year-Round
Marinating and Grilling Recipes,
P.O. Box 1100, Grand Rapids, MN.
55745-1100.
.7
Chocolate Chip Cookie Bars
Chocolate Chip Cookie Bars
are a crowd-pleasing dessert
Tote them to a Memorial Day
picnic or serve at a summer
•backyard barbecue. This delicious dessert is easy to make and
easy to transport tb ypur favorite
picnic site.
soda and salt
In a large bowl, beat butter,
granulated sugar, brown sugar
and vanilla on medium speed of
electric mixer until creamy. Add
eggs; beat well. Gradually add
flour mixture, beating well. Stir
in chocolate chips and nuts, if
using. Spread batter evenly in
greased 15H- by 10K- by 1-inch jellyroll pan. Bake 20 to 22 minutes
or until cookies begin to pull
away from sides of pan. Makes 48
bars.
Nutrition facts per serving: 120
cai. (50 calories from fat), 6 g
total fat 3.5 mg saturated fat 20
mg chol., 90 mg sodium, 9 mg calcium, 16 g total carbo., 1 g pro.
Recipe from: Hershey's Cocoa.
Heat oven to 375 degrees F.
Stir together flour, cocoa, baking
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from Provence. In the absence of mourve- ^
die, a fine middle-weight pinot noir from sM
producer such as California's Salntsbury iiM
a wonderful consolation.
With a grilled steak or lamb, a big part oA,
the decision involves where the (bod is
,'
eaten. If it's consumed on the porch in SBdegree weather, you might want to serve a -.
cool Beaujolais or pinot noir. If you bring iCJ
inside to an air-conditioned room, there's rto
reason not to serve a big red of your choice.
My choice is Chateauneuf-du-Pape,
because it tends to have an herbal quality *'
that blends well with the smoky flavors from*
the grill.
In matching grilled food with wine, it is *.
also wise not to overlook that which is pint'!
More fine rose wines are on the market . "
today than ever before, and the best are
_
exceptional hot-weather wines that provide
a delicious match with grilled salmon, scsd'1
lops or spicy shrimp.
".\
Especially noteworthy are some of the ""
roses based on Rhone-style grapes from 'J{
such producers as Cline, McDowell and "'
Joseph Phelps.
Making Marinades
eThe word "marinade" is
derived from the Latin or Italian
"marinara" meaning "of the
sea." Like seawater, the original
marinades were briny solutions
meant to tenderize, preserve
and flavor foods. Today, refrigeration and high product quality
have eliminated the tenderizing
and preserving needs, but marinating continues to be the most
effective way to add flavor and
character to food.
e A liquid marinade is composed of an acid, an oil and
some seasoning: The acid, which
allows the marinade to permeate the food, might be vinegar,
citrus juice, tomatoes or wine.
The oil acts both as a protector
for the surface of the food and as
a carrier for the seasonings. The
seasonings are often whole or
ground spices, fresh or dried
herbs. This combination of acid,
seasonings and oil can be a
homemade concoction that is
whisked together, or simply use
a bottled Italian dressing.
e Because acids react with
metal, be sure to marinate your
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