SOFTLINES TECHNICAL MANUAL 2014
SOFTLINES TECHNICAL MANUAL 2014 1|P a g e TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction 4 1 Construction Quality Standards 6 2 Children’s Safety Standards 16 3 Flammability and Chemical Regulatory Requirements 44 46 50 Canada USA 4 Care Instructions and Labeling Fur Policy Textile Labeling Care Instructions 5 Stuffed Articles and Upholstery Labeling Hudson’s Bay Company (Canada ) Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH(US) 6 Laboratory Testing Colour Approval Testing Program Packages and Prices 56 58 59 60 68 70 74 76 78 79 82 7 Garment Inspection Criteria 108 8 Mechanically Attached Fasteners 120 9 Needle Control and Metal Detection 126 10 Contact Information Appendix A Forms Test Request From Fabric submit information sheet Lab Dip/Strike-off/Embroidery/Fabric Submission Form Appendix B List of Apparel Testing Protocols 132 138 140 142 143 144 Hudson’s Bay Company ,Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH Appendix C Reference Material 150 2|P a g e 3|P a g e Introduction This manual provides details on the technical requirements for Hudson’s Bay Company banners The Hudson’s Bay, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH. This manual is for all direct import suppliers of private or captive branded softline products. The purpose of the manual is for our suppliers to understand our performance and safety standards. We are committed to providing quality merchandise that is current and exclusive for our customers. We also value our relationships with suppliers to commit to our high standard of quality assurance that ultimately will support business, reduce the number of claims, and promote sales. Copies of this manual and all other related documents can be found on Intertek (ITS) website, by using the following ID login and password: https://getprotocol.intertek.com/Hbc/default.aspx User ID: LT\bd.Hbcvendor P/W: int0235 The Product Development Process The diagram on the right gives an overview of the product development process for all private and/or captive brand products. Please ensure you have copies of the following manuals: 1. Social Compliance 2. Measurements Manual 3. Shipping & Logistics Requirements for Duty Paid Landed (DPL) Vendors for Private and Captive Branded Merchandise The duty paid landed (DPL) vendors or domestic vendors for private and captive branded merchandise, where vendors are the importers of record, it is the responsibility of the vendor to 4|P a g e ensure the merchandise conforms to the Canadian and U. S. Consumer Product Regulations and meets HBC, L & T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH private and captive brand standards. DPL vendors are required to conduct laboratory testing from nominated laboratory, Intertek Services (ITS). Private branded merchandise cannot be shipped to stores without a valid and passing ITS laboratory test report. Detailed lab testing requirements are listed in Chapter 6 of this manual. This information can also be obtained by contacting your nearest ITS laboratory location or from ITS website at the above link. 5|P a g e CHAPTER 1 Construction Quality Standards 6|P a g e 7|P a g e Garments manufactured for Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH must meet a variety of quality standards with regard to their construction. These standards are given in this section. Additional requirements can be found in the specification sheet for each style. Quality Standards for Garments Appearance, overall Notions are compatible in color, fiber, weight, and design Plaids, stripes, checks, and other designs match at seams and are balanced Fabric runs with the nap and one-way designs are cut in one direction Finished garment is pressed to give a smooth look Loose raveling and thread ends are clipped Sectional contrast colors do not show through the seam allowance Lengthwise grainline is perpendicular to the floor; crosswise grainline is parallel to floor Belts Flat, smooth, free from bulk Uniform width unless a design detail Interfacing is compatible with the fabric Closure is durable and secure Closure is smooth and does not snag garments or scratch wearer Closure is aligned with center front to prevent gaping when fastened Color does not crock or bleed onto garments Belt loops Correct number of belt loops for the style Positioning of belt loops evenly distributes the tensions around the full waist of the garment Clean-finished at the ends and securely tacked Raw edges of loops are hidden within waistband Closed with a twin-needle cover stitch Uniformly stitched, without puckering, skipped, or broken stitches Buttons Neatly and securely fastened with thread ends trimmed Size and design are correct Buttons are consistent in color Placement is accurate; distance from edge and spacing in between are uniform 8|P a g e Appropriate shank is provided to accommodate fabric Stitching starts and ends under button Colorfast, and will not fade, chip, or peel Aligned correctly with buttonholes Logos have been approved An extra button is attached to the garment Buttonholes Flat and securely stitched Even in width and length, and adequate in thread coverage Distance from edge and spacing in between is accurate Cut on grain Correct size to fit buttons without gaping Interfacing is compatible with the fabric Fabric (bound) buttonholes Lips are even in width and size Lips meet at the centre of the buttonhole Corners are squared Facing is securely attached to the buttonhole’s back Machine-made buttonholes Stitches are evenly spaced and smooth in appearance on the front and back of the buttonhole Buttonhole is cut cleanly with loose threads trimmed Interfacing is in the correct color Collars Free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched Under stitching prevents under-collar from rolling over and showing Interfacing is compatible with the fabric Shape is symmetrical on right and left, except for intentional designs Curved edges are smooth; points are sharp and flat Rolls smoothly or lays flat, according to design Properly secured inside collar points Plaids, checks, and stripes are balanced side to side 9|P a g e Cuffs Flat, smooth, and free from bulk: seams are graded, and under stitched where applicable Even in width Under cuff does not show Interfacing is compatible with the fabric construction and weight. Darts Tapered and smooth: free from pucker or bubble at the point Securely fastened at ends Symmetrical in shape, length, and spacing Pressed properly: vertical darts are pressed toward the centre, and horizontal darts are pressed down Facings Flat, smooth, and free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched, and understitched where applicable Securely tacked in place at seams and openings Facing edges are free from raveling Interfacing is compatible with fabric to maintain shape and prevent stretching Gathers Uniform, evenly distributed with no pleats forming Full, and not flattened or bulky Hems Flat and smooth, and free from pulls, ripples, puckering, and pleats, unless as an intentional design Hem fold is pressed so the hem hangs smoothly at the lower edge Hem edge is smooth, flat, and free from bulk and raveling Seams are aligned Hem edge finish does not create ridges or add bulk Even in width throughout Width is appropriate for garment style and fabrication Topstitching is straight, and consistent in size and placement Fused hems are flat and fused securely Hangs parallel to floor, unless the design dictates an uneven hem Blind-stitching is inconspicuous on the outside of garment 10 | P a g e Interfacing Compatible with the fabric: there is no significant change in hand Enhances body and longevity of garment Color and care requirements are compatible with shell fabric Free from bulk, puckers, and bubbles Not visible on inside or outside of garment Bonded properly without separation after care procedure Lapels Lie flat against body Free from bulk: seams are graded, clipped, or notched Reinforced or taped on the roll line in tailored garments Only facing is visible above the roll line Seamline is under the edge of the lapel Inner edge of facing is not visible Interfacing is compatible with the fabric Shape is symmetrical on the left and right, except for intentional designs Curved edges are smooth; points are sharp and flat Adequate ease is allowed in the fold at the hem of sleeve and sweep Lining Conceals inner construction of garment without adding excess bulk Color and care requirements are compatible with the outer fabric Fits smoothly inside garment with the seams aligned If attached at hems, the lining has a vertical pleat for ease at the centre back If free hanging, the lining is attached at the seams with thread tacks Does not hang below the garment: must be ½" shorter than sleeves and 1" shorter than skirts, pants, jacket, and coats Plackets Flat, and free from excess bulk Interfacing is compatible with the fabric Symmetrical in length and width Smooth with no gathers, ripples, or puckers at end Stripes, plaids, checks, or patterns match body 11 | P a g e Pleats and tucks Uniform in width, unless as a design detail Spacing is accurate Pressed flat, unless as a design detail On the grain of the fabric where the design allows Pockets Flat, smooth, and free from bulk Stitching is straight Placed accurately Upper corners are reinforced Patch pockets Upper corners are reinforced Square corners are mitered, and round corners are symmetrical If in pairs, patch pockets are symmetrical in size, shape, and fabric design No drill holes show through In-seam pockets Interfaced, under stitched, and lie flat when worn Inconspicuous unless intentional design Pocket Bags Uniformly stitched, without puckering, or skipped or broken stitches Secured and attached properly Welt Pockets Interfaced and lie flat when worn Ends of pockets are angled in the same direction If in pairs, symmetrical in size, shape, and fabric design Bar tacked at the ends of welt openings Flaps (if present) are a minimum of ¼" longer than welts Flaps are securely backstitched at ends Pressing Garment is smooth and free from wrinkles Garment is free from sheen and scorch marks No ridges from seams or facings 12 | P a g e Seams are pressed flat Pleats, tuck, creases are pressed as design requires Seams Securely stitched, straight, flat, and free from bulk Stitches are appropriate in size and tension for the fabric Fullness is eased smoothly Crossed seams intersect correctly Pressed in correct direction Graded or trimmed, and under stitched where required Matched to fabric designs where appropriate If finish is used, there is no added bulk or tension Crotch seam is secured from front to back and, where applicable, is pressed open Raw edges are clean-finished, and free from raveling Shoulder pads Flat, smooth, and securely tacked Covered with fabric compatible in color and weight with the garment No visible stitches on the exterior of the garment Sleeves (set-in) Fullness is evenly distributed at front and back cap Seam is smooth and even in width around cap Underarm seam is trimmed and reinforced with a backstitch Seam is pressed toward sleeve cap Smooth and free from wrinkles Snaps, hooks and eyes, and other fasteners Area is reinforced with compatible interfacing Inconspicuous from right side of garment Garment lays flat and is aligned correctly when fastened Stitching Stitch length and tension is correct for fabric Straight, and garment is free from broken, skipped, or run-on stitches Beginning and ending stitch overlap and are firmly secure Loose threads are trimmed 13 | P a g e Topstitching Straight and consistent in distance from the garment edge at all points Stitch length and tension is correct for the design and fabric Double rows of topstitching are an even distance apart Topstitching is clean, with no repaired joins Understitching Even distance from seam, and does not show on outer garment Holds seam against facing, under-collar, or cuff without wrinkles and puckers Prevents facing, under-collar, or cuff from folding to right side of garment Waistband Smooth, even width Free from bulk On grain Interfaced with compatible fusing to prevent waistband from stretching and rolling over Stitching is straight and even with consistent tension Corners are square Waistband lays flat and aligns properly when fastened Skirts or pants are eased to fit the band Elastic waistband is constructed so elastic does not roll or twist and seam cracking does not occur when the waistband is fully extended Stitched evenly when applied For tailored pants, curtained waistband is made of a fabric compatible with outer fabric Zipper Placket is smooth, flat, and free from puckering Stitching is straight and even Placket is the appropriate length and width Seams and neckline edges match Completely covered unless intended as a design feature Function well and slides easily, recommended brands are YKK, YBS, HHH Skirt and pant zippers end at the band Open-end zipper is secured at the bottom end with a backstitch or bar tack 14 | P a g e 15 | P a g e CHAPTER 2 Children’s Safety Standards 16 | P a g e 17 | P a g e This section outlines the safety standards that will govern vendors who supply children's garments to Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH banners. There is zero tolerance for deviations from these requirements regarding child safety issues. The vendor is responsible for delivering products that meet all company and regulatory standards (Health Canada in Canada, Consumer Product Safety Commission, USA), and products that do not meet these standards will not receive approval to ship. Samples sent for pre-production and production approval, as well as samples sent for bulk garment testing must be submitted with all components representative of bulk production. All orders are subject to cancellation and removal of product from the stores as a result of vendor non-compliance with children's safety standards. Refer below for Children’s safety requirements according to the type of products and styling. Outerwear Outerwear top items include, but are not restricted to; outerwear coats, snow suits, jackets, sweatshirts, vests, sweaters, and fleece pullovers Outerwear bottoms include, but are not restricted to ski pants and splash pants A. Hood/neck area on outerwear tops No drawstrings allowed for any size at the hood and neck area as they pose a potential strangulation hazard Alternative closures are to be used for hoods Button closure allowed only for sizes 7-20 18 | P a g e B. Waist/Sweep area on outerwear tops and bottoms Functional drawstrings are not allowed for sizes 0-7 at the waist and sweep area as they pose a potential vehicular dragging hazard Functional drawstrings for sizes 8-20 cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when the garment is extended to its fullest width Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull together parts of the garment to provide closure No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Continuous drawstrings must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to prevent a longer portion from being exposed 19 | P a g e C. Internal continuous draw cord on outerwear tops The internal continuous drawstring is not allowed for size 0-6 An internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop at the sweep is allowed only for sizes 7-20 The cord, ribbon, tape, or bungee must not have any loose ends to pull together parts of the garment It must be bar-tacked at the center back as well as 2” on either side of the center bar-tack The cord must be flush to the garment and exposed length cannot exceed 2” when garment is relaxed If the outerwear is reversible, an internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop is not allowed 20 | P a g e D. Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow at waist/sweep area on outerwear tops/bottoms A cord, a ribbon, or tape of any material for decorative purposes is allowed for outerwear tops, except at neck/hood area and outerwear bottoms, except at hem The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Hanging ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs 21 | P a g e Non-functional Tie Pre-tied Decorative Bow Non-functional Tie Pre-tied Decorative Bow 22 | P a g e Daywear A. Hood/neck area on daywear tops No drawstrings allowed for any size(0-20) at the hood and neck area as they pose a potential strangulation hazard For fashion scoop, crew, or boat neck tops a non-functional tie or pre-tied decorative bow is allowed The tie or bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre Tie ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for any size Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for any size Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional Tie Pre-tied Decorative Bow Non-functional Tie Pre-tied Decorative Bow Halters and shoulder straps Functional halter and shoulder strap ties allowed for sizes 8-20 Halters and shoulder straps on sizes 0-7 must be continuous or use alternative closures Example buttons, snaps, elastic, Velcro like tape or velour tape Size 8-20: The maximum length of each tie from edge of neck to the end of tie relaxed is 15’’ Bibs Bib closures should be Button, Snap or Velcro like tape with no sharp edges 23 | P a g e B. Waist area on daywear tops and bottoms Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow Pre-tied decorative bows allowed for all sizes The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the center knot Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for sizes 0-20 Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring Non-functional drawstrings allowed for all sizes Non-functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends for decorative purposes No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint Non-functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when the garment is extended to its fullest width Functional drawstring Functional drawstrings are not allowed for size 0-4 Functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 4-20 Functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when the garment is extended to its fullest width Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull together parts of the garment to provide closure No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to prevent a longer portion from being exposed 24 | P a g e Non-functional continuous bungee cord Non-functional continuous bungee cord with flush toggle is allowed only for sizes 7-20 for decorative purposes only Maximum distance between the openings is 1” with only the looped portion exposed outside of encasement Cord must be tacked on either side, cord and toggle must be flush with garment when relaxed When pulled, the loop cannot be larger than 2” in diameter INCORRECT CORRECT 25 | P a g e FLUSH TOGGLE C. Sweep area on daywear tops and bottoms Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow Pre-tied decorative bows allowed for all sizes The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the center knot Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes and cannot extend below hemline Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring Non-functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 8-20 Non-functional drawstrings not allowed on hemlines of tops which are loose fitting or below hip length and bottoms which are loose fitting or below knee length Non-functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends for decorative purposes No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint Non-functional drawstrings for any size cannot exceed 3” in length outside the encasement when the garment is extended to its fullest width Alternative closures example buttons, snaps, encased elastic or Velcro like tape may be used at sweep area on daywear tops and bottoms 26 | P a g e Non-functional continuous bungee cord Non-functional continuous bungee cord with flush toggle is allowed only for sizes 7-20 For decorative purposes only Maximum distance between the openings is 1” with only the looped portion exposed outside of encasement Cord must be tacked on either side, cord and toggle must be flush with garment when relaxed When pulled, the loop cannot be larger than 2” in diameter Non-functional bungee cord with safety loop Non-functional bungee cord with safety loop is allowed only for sizes 7-20 For decorative purposes only Maximum length of total exposed bungee is 2” relaxed Cord must be tacked on either side, cord and toggle must be flush with garment when relaxed NON- FUNCTIONAL BUNGEE CORD WITH SAFETY TAB (7-18) OPTION B OPTION A Side Seam Side Seam Bungee Cord (must be flush to garment) Length of Bungee Cord cannot be longer than 2” in distance Bungee Cord (must be flush to garment) Safety Loop Toggle Eyelet (Buttonholes can also be used) Length of Bungee Cord cannot be longer than 2” in distance Safety Loop Toggle Eyelet ( Buttonholes can also be used) N.B. Must have at least 1/2” extension into seam Bungee Cord must be bar-tacked onto exterior of casement at Center Back N.B. Must have at least 1/2” extenstion past bar-tack Bungee Cord must be bar-tacked onto exterior of casement at Center Back 27 | P a g e D. Internal continuous draw cord on daywear tops An internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop at the sweep is allowed only for sizes 4-20 The cord, ribbon, tape, or bungee must not have any loose ends to pull together parts of the garment It must be bar-tacked at the centre back as well as 2” on either side of the centre bar-tack The cord must be flush to the garment and exposed length cannot exceed 2” when garment is relaxed If the daywear is reversible, an internal functional continuous drawstring cord with safety loop is not allowed Internal Functional Continuous Drawstring Cord with Safety Loop Centre` Bac k Seam Side Seam Length of Bungee Cord c annot be longer than 2” in distanc e Bungee Cord (m ust be flush to ga rm ent) Safety Loop Toggle 2” on either side of c entre Bar-tac k Bungee Cord m ust be wrapped through and through and tac ked at c entre bac k seam Eyelet ( Buttonholes c an also be used) 1 1/2” Lining or poly twill fabric m ust be 1 1/2” wide. E. Functional Roll Tabs Functional roll tabs are allowed at sweep area of daywear bottoms all sizes When hem is unrolled, tab length must be shorter than or equal to hem Roll tabs may be attached with buttons, snaps, elastic or Velcro like tape Alternative to roll tab is a bungee loop fixed to inner leg and attaching to button on outer leg for sizes 2-18 only Diameter of bungee loop cannot exceed .75” relaxed or 1.5” when pulled Bungee roll cuff option for sizes 2-20 28 | P a g e F. Sweep area on infant’s gowns Drawstrings at the hemline of infant’s gowns sizes 0-24mo are not permitted Alternative finishing for hemlines includes zigzag stitching, encased elastic or overlocked elastic G. Sashes Sashes are allowed at waist area of daywear tops all sizes Sashes are to be attached only at side seams and cannot exceed the following maximum length for each tie Size 0-3x 4-7 7-20 Maximum Length 18” 25” 30” H. Belts Belt closures include, but are not restricted to self-ties, buckles, clips, D-rings or interlocking rings (note: all rings must be seamless) Metal tips are allowed for sizes 4-20 Hanging ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments Metals must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all government regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing Free floating belts Functional free floating belts allowed only for sizes 4-20 Functional free floating belts are defined as a belt separate from garment and of any material with two loose ends to cinch a garment at the waist area 29 | P a g e Non-functional belts Non-functional belts allowed for all sizes Non-functional belts are defined as a non-stretch belt attached to garment with two loose ends for decorative purposes at the waist area Non-functional belts cannot encircle more than half of garment circumference and cannot be continuous Above restrictions do not apply if belt is fully stitched to garment along all edges Elasticized non-functional belts Elasticized non-functional belts are allowed at front waist only for all sizes Continuous portions of belt must be fully stitched to garment along all edges Hanging end of belt cannot exceed 2” relaxed when belt is closed FRONTVIEW Non-Functional Belt: Front View BACK VIEW Elastic/web at back waistband must be secured with a single needle stitch all around Swimwear A. Girls swimwear Functional ties Functional ties are not allowed at neck area for all sizes Non-functional ties Non-functional ties allowed at waist area for sizes 4-20 Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs 30 | P a g e Tie must be lock stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint Tie ends must not exceed 3” after tying NON-FUNCTIONAL TIES Applied decorative bow or pre-tied decorative bow Pre-tied decorative bows allowed for all sizes The bow must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at each side of the center knot Bow loops cannot exceed the maximum length of 1” for sizes 0-7 and 1.25” for sizes 8-20 Bow ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs INCORRECT CORRECT 31 | P a g e B. Boys swimwear Functional drawstring Functional drawstrings allowed only for sizes 4-20 Drawstring must be internal for sizes 4-7 Functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends to pull together parts of the garment to provide closure No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint or side seams to prevent a longer portion from being exposed Functional drawstring ends cannot exceed maximum 3” outside the encasement when the garment is fully stretched Non-functional drawstring Non-functional drawstrings allowed at waist area for sizes 2-20 Non-functional drawstring ends cannot exceed maximum 3” outside the encasement when the garment is fully stretched Non-functional drawstrings are defined as a cord, ribbon or tape with two loose ends for decorative purposes No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Non-functional drawstring must be stitched or bar-tacked at the midpoint Pre-tied decorative knot A cord, a ribbon, or tape of any material for decorative purposes is allowed for swimwear The knot must be lock stitched (a minimum of 5 stitches) or bar-tacked at the centre Hanging ends cannot exceed the maximum length of 3” for all sizes Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped 32 | P a g e Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Alternative closures i.e. buttons, snaps, elastic or Velcro like tape may be used at waist area on swimwear 33 | P a g e Sleepwear Refer to Health Canada for all sleepwear guidelines for Canada and the CPSC for the USA. Accessories A. Hats and Caps Hats and caps may be secured with chinstraps or ties following the below restrictions Continuous chinstraps must be elasticized and snug fitting All Tie ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments. Acceptable end finishes include self fold back, heat seal and plastic tipped Finishing of ends must not result in sharp edges. When plastic tipping is used the tips must withstand a pull-force of at least 21 lbs Ties cannot exceed the following Size Maximum Length with ear flaps Maximum Length without ear flaps 0-24mo 2-20 6” 8” 10” 12” Ends may be secured width Velcro like tape providing there are no sharp edges Metal eyelets/grommets are not allowed on hats and caps 34 | P a g e B. Mittens No continuous mitten straps are allowed for sizes 0-7 Mittens may be fastened to sleeve opening using clips, snaps or Velcro like tape C. Booties No ties or draw cords are allowed D. Snaps and fasteners All children's wear garments in all sizes with snap fasteners must be tested for safety and quality according to the regulatory standards All snap fasteners must be made of plastic, brass or non-ferrous metal Fasteners must be obtained from a recommended supplier or meet all regulatory requirements, and pass mandatory testing. Refer to Mechanically Attached Fasteners section in this manual for more details on technical and safety requirements for fasteners Snap attachment method Snaps must not be applied over seams, stitching lines, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness Incorrect Correct S napsfall onthe seamsof 2 facings Incorrect Correct Snaps must not have sharp edges or uncovered prongs that can injure or cut the wearer or damage the fabric The correct snap size must be used for the particular thickness of fabric The bottom of the post must be flat 35 | P a g e The cap and the post must be curled properly The two staples must be completely curled The cap or button must not turn easily Reused snaps are not permitted Snaps for outerwear and bottom weight fabric must be spring-loaded. Due to the nature of some material (i.e. PVC) a plastic disc backing may be required to meet company strength standards Machine attachment Snaps must be applied by recommended machines or following below The dies are made to specifically fit the machine and technicians evaluate the setting of the snaps The factory checks the adjustment of the machine twice daily No poorly set snaps are found in random inspections by QA The machine is pneumatic or electric press. No manually operated hand/foot press or electric flywheel type presses are permitted Snap attachment quality check No gaps can exist between the snap and fabric, as the fabric can slip away from the fastener. Gaps occur if prongs are too long or fabric is too thin Fabric must be reinforced with compatible fusing to provide a stable foundation for the snap Snaps must be set through fabric with a minimum of two plies. For lighter weight fabrics, at least three plies are required Snaps must be applied with correct pressure. This is checked by; o Security of fastener – it must not be loose and must not come off easily when pulled by hand o Pressure of attachment – if a fingernail can get under fastener the pressure may be too little, if fabric appears damaged the pressure may be too much E. Metal shank buttons Shank buttons allowed for sizes 0-20 Swivel shanks allowed for sizes 7-20 Metals must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing F. Eyelets/Grommets Metal eyelets or grommets allowed for sizes 4-20 only, must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing 36 | P a g e Metal eyelets or grommets are not permitted when exposed to skin through regular wear of garment Eyelets cannot be plastic Alternatives such as stitched eyelets or buttonholes may be used for sizes 0-3x G. Hasps/sliders Wire diameter must be a minimum of 12 gauges Must be seamless Sharp or pointed ends are not permitted Hasp/slider attachment method Insert the strap into the buckle/slider, pass up over the slider center bar and out of the buckle/slider Loop the strap around through the hasp Bring the strap back around the slider center bar Clean finish the strap end and ensure 1” depth Slider must be seamless 1” Depth 37 | P a g e Findings and Notions A. Hanger loops Mobilon hanger loops are the only permissible loops for children's wear Hanger loops are restricted to the following maximum lengths Size 0-24mo 2-3 4-7 8-20 Maximum Length 5” 6” 7” 8” B. Small parts Small parts are not allowed for sizes 0-3x Small parts must be accompanied by a choking hazard hangtag for sizes 4-7 Small parts are defined as anything that detaches from the garment when subjected to the relevant test and can be totally enclosed in a small parts cylinder under force of not more than 1 lb once detached. The requirement of small parts for choking hazard applies to all decorative and functional items. If the decorative or functional item fails attachment strength (HBC 004) or appearance after laundering requirement, it will then be tested as a small part. If it fits entirely within the small parts cylinder in any orientation, then the item must fail. For L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH additional testing required is Torque: 4 in-lbs (Not applicable to buttons). For details on small parts cylinder see of the Canadian Consumer Product Safety Act, (formerly Schedule VIII, of the Canadian Hazardous Products (Toys) Regulation (HPA)), or ASTM F 963 or 16CFR 1500 &1501 the Consumer Product Safety Commission, CPSC, USA. Items which may become small parts if not properly attached include, but are not restricted to; Metal zipper pulls D-rings Buckles Sequins Buttons Snaps Velcro Non-textile appliqué Bow Rosettes Flowers Items which are small parts and are not allowed on sizes 0-3 include, but are not restricted to; Plastic zipper tabs Rhinestones 38 | P a g e Beads Eyelets Rivets Press Studs Non-textile appliqué Non-textile Appliqués A part composed entirely of soft textile is exempt from small parts restrictions Bows, rosettes, textile appliqués and pompoms are not exempt from small parts restrictions Bows, rosettes, appliqués and pompoms that fit in a small parts cylinder but do not have an accessible edge of 1/8” will be subjected to five launderings in lieu of pull test Pompoms Textile pompoms used on sizes 0-6x must be tested to the ASTM F963-96a standard or 16CFR 1500 &1501 Pompom will not be accepted if it becomes loose at less than the required tension and when detached fits through the small ball gauge under its own weight Pompoms cannot be glued on Decorative trims Soft decorative components (i.e. bows, rosettes, appliqués) that do not fit in a small parts cylinder will be subjected to five launderings (on six garments) and visually assessed in lieu of pull test Bows or rosettes must be bar-tacked or stitched with a minimum of five stitches Appliqués must be stitched and not glued on No rhinestones or press studs are allowed for sizes 0-3x Sequins are permitted on sizes 0-3x only if applied following the Safe Sequin Application Guideline Beads, rhinestones, sequins and press studs will be subjected 5 washes and visually assessed for 6 garments Bows, rosettes, and appliqués must withstand pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds Beads Beads are not permitted on sizes 0-3x Glass or wooden beads are not permitted for sizes 4-7 Natural materials (i.e. horn, pearl, coconut) are not permitted for sizes 4-20 Components cannot be glued on for sizes 4-20 39 | P a g e Safe Sequin Application Guideline Single Sequin Application Each sequin must be machine embroidered with 6 stitches, 2 ply good quality threads each stitch Each start and stop must be secured and locked Sequin size must be 5mm to 7mm Sequins must be flat, cannot be faceted Spaced sequins must be sewn individually or connected with 10-12 SPI lockstitch. No thread floats are allowed. Stitching must not break when pulled with reasonable force Sequin application must be covered with knitted fusible interfacing on reverse side of garment. Interfacing must have rounded corners or have edges secured in seams Grouped/Chained Sequin Application Each sequin must be machine embroidered with 4 stitches, 2 ply good quality threads each stitch Each start and stop must be secured and locked Sequin size must be 5mm to 7mm Sequins must be flat, cannot be faceted Sequin application must be covered with knitted fusible interfacing on reverse side of garment. Interfacing must have rounded corners or have edges secured in seams Sewing thread Monofilament thread must not be used on construction seams Monofilament thread is permitted for artwork application only under the following restrictions Artwork must be fully fused or faced – to prevent skin irritation as well as potential unraveling Thread loops of 1” or longer are not permitted Thread must be applied with lockstitch machine Buttons Decorative and functional buttons must withstand pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds Buttons smaller than 15 ligne should be of 2-hole configuration. Buttons 15 ligne or larger should be of 4-hole configuration. Buttons that crack, chip or break are not permitted Buttons must be machine stitched secured and locked Covered buttons only allowed for sizes 7-20 and must be tested to HBC-004 Test Method 15lbs for 15secs. Novelty/fancy buttons allowed for all sizes with the following restrictions 40 | P a g e Components cannot be glued on No two-piece rimmed buttons with outer rings No buttons with metal staples or hooks No buttons made of natural materials (i.e. horn, pearl, coconut) No top dyed buttons Maximum shank backing part thickness must be 2mm Metal sew-through buttonholes must be manufactured as part of the mold. Drill holes are not permitted Meta l rings or components glued onto button NOT ALLOWED Zippers Zippers must be ordered from a recommended supplier (see Chapter 1) or meet all regulatory requirements, and pass mandatory company testing Metal components must be brass or non-ferrous, meet all regulatory requirements and pass mandatory company testing Refer to Chapter 4 for Zippers with surface coatings. Pull tabs No bungee or elastic cord allowed Ends must be free of knots, toggles and other decorative or functional attachments Tab cannot exceed 1” in length beyond bartack Other acceptable pulls include, but are not restricted to filled soft textile, molded plastic and pompoms Plastic pull tabs are not allowed on sizes 0-3x Pull tabs must withstand HBC-004—Pull test of 15 lbs of pressure for 15 seconds Pull tabs continued 41 | P a g e Finishing A. Flame retardant finishes on fabrics Flame retardant finishes are not permitted for any banner ie. HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH. B. Stone washing If actual stones are used all pockets must be stitched closed Stitching must be applied using the smallest number of SPI technically possible (no more than 56) Machine must be set to loosest tension possible Thread should be cotton and a different shade than fabric, but not contrasting Hangtag should be included to inform consumer of stone wash procedure and instruct to remove basting stitches from pockets C. Sharp edges/sharp points-Use and abuse All parts that are hard or stiff (i.e. metal parts, buttons, appliqués, Velcro like fasteners) must not have any sharp edges, burrs or points Hook and loop tape must have rounded corners No needles or parts of needles can be left in garment. A needle detector and needle control system must be used in factory No metal pins, wires, or staples may be used in any part of the production process for bundling, tacking or securing components No mechanical hazards or safety hazards Any graspable component or decorative item in clothing shall not present any other mechanical hazards such as pinching, scissoring, bruising, lacerating, crushing, breaking or amputating All styles for HBC which are also to be sold in Lord & Taylor , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH stores shall be reviewed by lab against the requirements of CPSIA Requirements supplemental protocol to determine if additional testing or labeling is required. 42 | P a g e 43 | P a g e CHAPTER 3 Flammability and Chemical Regulatory Requirements 44 | P a g e 45 | P a g e This section outlines the flammability and chemical, regulatory requirements of Canada Consumer Product Safety act (CCPSA) previously known as the Hazardous Product Act, (HPA) and United States of America’s Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). It also includes additional requirements specific to Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH . The Flammability section includes regulatory requirements of sleepwear and non sleepwear, fabrics, apparel and accessories. The chemical requirements cover prohibited and regulated chemicals which are harmful for the user if applied in excess. More details on these two areas are available on Health Canada and CPSC, (USA) websites. Vendors are encouraged to refer to these sites regularly for updates and ensure all regulatory requirements are followed. Canadian Textile Flammability Regulations (SOR/2011-22) as per CCPSA previously known as the Hazardous Product act (HPA) All consumer textiles other than children's sleepwear must not have a flame spread time of: 3.5 seconds or less - where the product does not have a raised fiber surface. Four (4) seconds or less - where the product has a raised fiber surface exhibits inhibition or fusion of its base fibers. Test method CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO.27.5-2008. CCPSA- Children’s Sleepwear Regulations (SOR/2011-15) Children's sleepwear (up to and including size 14X) has two separate sets of requirements depending upon the style or design of the sleepwear: Tight fitting sleepwear (including polo pajamas and sleepers, sleepwear for infants up to 7 kg, and sleepwear for hospital use) must not have a flame spread time of 7.0 seconds or less using the test method CAN/CGSB 4.2 NO.27.5-2008. (Reference: CCPSA ,previously called as Hazardous Product Act - Schedule I, Part I, Item 5) Loose fitting sleepwear (including nightgowns, nightshirts, dressing gowns, housecoats, robes, pajamas, and baby-doll Panama) must have: bathrobes, 1. An average char length for five specimens that does not exceed 178 mm 2. Not more than one individual specimen with a char length equal to the full length of the specimen (254 mm) (Reference: CCPSA previously called as Hazardous Product Act - Schedule I, Part II, item 40) Vendor Responsibility The vendor must: Ensure that the fabric used meets the flammability requirements. Ensure that fabric for children's sleepwear meets the strictest applicable standards. Ensure that the style of children's sleepwear he or she is producing meets the requirements set out in the CCPSA 46 | P a g e Co-operate with any product recalls or withdrawals from the marketplace of noncompliant goods. Flame retardants are not allowed. Health Canada Measurement Guidelines Maximum dimensional criteria for polo pajamas (MM) Sizes Chest Circumference (twice A-B) Seat Circumference (twice C-D) Thigh Circumference (twice G-H) Ankle Circumference (twice E-F) Wrist Length of Circum the Top ference (K-L) (twice I-J) 0 to 2 3 to 4 5 to 6X 7 to 10 12 to 14X 740 780 830 900 980 725 725 795 850 980 410 435 470 530 590 310 320 330 350 370 285 290 295 305 315 400 450 525 590 650 Maximum dimensional criteria for sleepers (MM) Sizes 0 to 2 3 to 4 5 to 6X 7 to 10 12 to 14X Chest Circumference (twice AB) 740 780 830 910 1000 Seat Circumference (twice CD) 725 725 795 920 1040 Thigh Circumference (twice GH) 410 435 470 530 590 Ankle Circumference (twice EF) 310 320 330 350 370 Wrist Circumference (twice I-J) 285 290 295 305 315 Health Canada Government regulations on ponchos Subject to flammability regulations in respect to either 45 or 90 degrees (45 degrees is regulatory for normal apparel and the 90 degrees for children’s sleepwear or loose fitting garments). Fringes should be: max 1.5’’ for sizes 0-24, max 2.5’’ for sizes 2-6x and max 3’’ for sizes 7-14. All decorative non-functional items must follow the children’s safety standards in Chapter two and governmental regulatory requirements. If they are in the sleepwear department it is a Mixed-Style Sleepwear or joined together in the sleepwear dept. it is a Modified Sleeper, both would be tested at 90 degrees, in line with the Hazardous Products Act. 47 | P a g e Common Sleepwear Silhouettes: Cuffed polo PJ Set Footed polo PJ set Gowns Robes Robes Lounge Se Lounge set 48 | P a g e Canadian regulations on Chemical Hazards Lead content Follow Health Canada's total lead content in surface coating of children's PVC products and on other children articles and accessories. Total lead must not exceed 90ppm. HBC vendors must adhere to CCPSA standard. Applicable items include children's raincoats, painted t-shirts, bib backings, zippers, dyed to-match buttons, and snaps, kid’s accessories and footwear. Consumer Products Containing Lead (Contact with Mouth) Regulations Limit: 90 mg/kg total lead or less in any accessible part. Accessible part – Any part of a consumer product containing lead that may be touched, licked, mouthed or swallowed in the course of reasonably foreseeable use. Products Covered Items for all ages, other than kitchen utensils, that are brought into contact with the user’s mouth in the course of normal use. Examples: Baby bottle nipples, soothers, baby bibs; beverage straws, drinking spouts, other drinking aids; mouth pieces of musical instruments; sports mouthpieces. Items intended for use in play or learning by children under three years of age. Examples: Children’s crayons, children’s paints, toys for children under three years. Formaldehyde Formaldehyde may cause an allergic reaction when it comes into contact with skin. Formaldehyde content on infants' clothing - sizes 0-6X for The Bay - should be less than 75 mg/kg (ppm). For all other sizes it should be less than 200 mg/kg (ppm). Phthalates Phthalates are a family of chemicals commonly used to make vinyl plastic, otherwise known as polyvinyl chloride or PVC, soft and flexible. Studies suggest that certain phthalates are hazardous to reproduction and development and may cause health effects such as liver and kidney failure in young children when products are sucked or chewed for extended periods. Phthalate restrictions are as follows: DEHP, DBP, BBP restrictions apply to vinyl in toys for children under 14 years of age and childcare articles for children under 4 years of age; DINP, DIDP, DNOP restrictions apply to vinyl components that can be placed in the mouth of a child under four years of age in toys for children and childcare articles. Limit: 1000 mg/kg per restricted phthalate. 49 | P a g e US Flammability Regulations as per Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) is charged with protecting the American public from unreasonable risks of injury or death from thousands of types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. As such all suppliers and manufacturers producing private branded merchandise for Lord & Taylor are required to adhere to the CPSC‘s requirements. US General Flammability Requirements All fabrics must meet the CPSC‘s flammability standards by ensuring all fabrics have been tested for flammability. The requirements are detailed in the LABORATORY TEST MANUAL FOR 16 CFR Part 1610: Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles. For a copy of this manual please click here. http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/testapparel.pdf Fabric complies if designated class 1 for plain surface and class 1 or 2 for raised surface, failed if designated class 3(rapid and intense burning). Children’s sleepwear flammability standards To protect children from burns, these rules require that children’s sleepwear must be flame resistant and self-extinguish if a flame from a candle, match, lighter or a similar item causes it to catch fire. The rules cover all children’s sleepwear above size 9 months and up to size 14 and require that: (1) the fabric and garments must pass 16CFR part 1615.4 or 16CFR part 1616.6 flammability tests; or (2) be "tight fitting" as defined by specified dimensions. Infant sleepwear sized for 9 months or younger is exempt from rules because studies have shown that infants in this range lack mobility, which significantly reduces the risk of injury from clothing burns Requirements to be considered for infant sleepwear (sizes 0 through 9 months): Sleepwear is sized 9 months or smaller; If a one-piece garment, does not exceed 64.8 centimeters (25.75 inches) in length; if a two-piece garment, has no piece exceeding 40 centimeters (15.75 inches) in length; Complies with all applicable requirements of the Standard for the Flammability Clothing Textiles (16 CFR part 1610) and the Standard for the Flammability Vinyl Plastic Film (16 CFR part 1611); Bears a label stating the size of the garment, expressed in terms of months of age. For example, “0 to 3 mos.” or “9 mos.” If the label is not visible to the consumer when the garment is offered for sale at retail, the same information must appear legibly on the package of the garment. Requirements to be considered a tight fitting sleepwear (9 mos-14 years): (1) Sized for 9 months and up to 14 years: (a)Size 2 through 6X mean the sizes defined as 6 through 6X in Department of Commerce Voluntary Product Standard, previously identified as Commercial Standard, CS 151– 50 | P a g e 50 “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Apparel for Infants, Babies, Toddlers, and Children.”; (b) Sizes 7 through 14 means the sizes defined as 7 through 14 in Department of Commerce Voluntary Product Standards PS 54–72 and PS 36–70, previously identified as Commercial Standards, CS 153–48, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Girls' Apparel” and CS 155–50, “Body Measurements for the Sizing of Boys' Apparel”, respectively. (2) does not exceed the max dimensions for the chest, waist, seat, upper arm, thigh, wrist, or ankle listed In 16 C.F.R. PART 1615 and 16 C.F.R. PART 1616; Snug fitting Sleepwear maximum dimensions (3) Have no fabric ornament or trim, such as lace or ribbon, which extends more than ¼ inch(6 mm) from the point at which it is attached to the garment; (4) Have sleeves that taper from the shoulders to the ends of the sleeves; (5) Have pant legs that taper from the thighs to the ends of the pant legs; (6) For 1-piece - taper from the chest down to the waist and from the seat up to the waist; (7) For 2-piece: (a) Have an upper piece that tapers from the chest to the bottom of the piece, (b) If the upper piece has fastenings, have the lowest fastening located within 6 inches of the bottom of the piece, and (c) Have a lower piece that tapers from the seat to the top of the piece; 51 | P a g e (8) Bears a label stating the size of the garment; for example “Size 7.” If the label is not visible to the consumer when the garment is offered for sale at retail, the garment size must appear legibly on the package of the garment. (9) bear a hang tag alerting buyers that the garments are not flame-resistant and should be worn snug fitting because loose-fitting garments are more likely to catch fire; (10) complies with all applicable requirements of the Standard for the Flammability Clothing Textiles (16 CFR part 1610)( comply if designated class 1 for plain surface and class 2 for raised surface, failed if designated class 3-rapid and intense burning) and the Standard for the Flammability Vinyl Plastic Film (16 CFR part 1611) (The rate of burning shall not exceed 1.2 in./sec as judged by the average of five determinations lengthwise and five determinations transverse to the direction of processing). (10.1) 16 CFR part 1610 fabric exemptions (fabric complies requirements) if: Plain surface fabrics weight is 88.2 g/m2 (2.6 oz/yd2) or greater, OR Plain or raised surface fabrics made entirely from or combinations of acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, or wool. (10.2) 16 CFR part 1610 Standard exceptions: (a) Interlinings, provided they are sold for the purpose of covered or unexposed interlinings (b) Hats, provided they not a covering for the neck, face, or shoulders when worn by an individuals (c) Gloves, provided longer than 14 inches and/or attached to a garment Footwear that doesn’t consist of hosiery in whole or part or does not form an integral part of another garment (11) Bear a label “Wear snug fitting, Not flame resistant” All types children’s sleepwear requirements (sizes 0-14): (1) Each article of children's sleepwear must have a permanent label with instructions on how to take care of the garment to protect it from chemicals or other treatments that can reduce its flame resistance; If care instruction appears on label reverse side-“CARE INSTRUCTION ON REVERSE should appear on label outside. If sleepwear item was tested after 1 wash, “WASH BEFORE WEARING” must be labeled. (2) Children's sleepwear must have a permanent label with 0.5 inch heigh and 0.75 inch wide min dimensions with a unit identification (number, letter, date, or combination thereof) so manufacturers can track the garment's associated fabric and garment production lots in the event of a recall; 52 | P a g e (3) Manufacturers and importers must maintain written records as specified in the regulations; For additional information regarding fabric, prototype seam and trim, production garment seam testing and further details please refer: 16 C.F.R. PART 1610—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CLOTHING TEXTILES http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.68.html PART 1611—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF VINYL PLASTIC FILM http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/16-2.0.1.4.69.html 16 C.F.R. PART 1616—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CHILDREN'S SLEEPWEAR: SIZES 7 THROUGH 14 (FF 5–74) http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/162.0.1.4.71.html 16 C.F.R. PART 1615—STANDARD FOR THE FLAMMABILITY OF CHILDREN'S SLEEPWEAR: SIZES 0 THROUGH 6X (FF 3–71) http://law.justia.com/cfr/title16/162.0.1.4.70.html US, CPSC regulations on Chemical Hazards Lead: Lead in surface Coating,16 CFR1303 It includes but not limited to painted snaps, and scrapable graphics Requirement – Max allowed 90 ppm, Manufacturers guarantee Lead in substrate, EPA 3050b Requirement –Max allowe-100 ppm Exceptions –inaccessible component parts and components listed in 16 CFR1500.91 (D) & (E) Phthalates-US Product Consumer Safety Improvement Act 2008 Any childcare article including clothing for children less than 12 years of age restrict the following: Concentration of more than .01% DEHP, DBP, BBP Any toys placed in a child’s mouth and childcare article that should not contain below phthalates with the concentrations of more than 0.1% DINP, DIDP, DNIP Formaldehyde-JIS-1041 Requirements: Children < 75 ppm , Adult <300 ppm Direct or indirect contact with the skin. Also supplier’s guarantee is required. 53 | P a g e Colorfastness to Saliva--64 LFGB B82.10-1 Requirement - Solution no 1 only, AATCC grey scale 4 Wash and corrosion durability At development stage only, all metal parts included Use all standard solutions plus exposure to saliva Requirement-No Corrosion, oxidation or discoloration is allowed Nickel Metal accessories for layette, infants, toddlers, kids products must be nickel free. Exception-Small metal items (snaps, small buttons etc) with low amount of nickel may pass the metal detector test and such items can be used provided they do not come I contact with the skin for prolonged time. California Proposition 65 – Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986 Proposition 65, the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986, was enacted as a ballot initiative in November 1986. The Proposition was intended by its authors to protect California citizens and the State’s drinking water sources from chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm, and to inform citizens about exposure to such chemicals. For more information, please refer to http://www.oehha.ca.gov/prop65.html Additional requirements for CPSC, USA Tracking Label for Children’s products Products for Children 12 years of age or under require a tracking label. The tracking label must contain information that will enable the manufacturer to ascertain the location and date of production of the product and cohort information (including the batch, run number, or other identifying characteristic) and any other information determined by the manufacturer to facilitate ascertaining the specific source of the product by reference to those marks. According to section 103 of CPSIA, tracking label must contain information that will enable the ultimate purchaser to ascertain the manufacturer or private labeler, location and date of production of the product, and cohort information (including the batch, run number, or other identifying characteristic). For more information refer to link, http://www.cpsc.gov/ABOUT/Cpsia/faq/103faq.html or contact your nearest ITS lab. Appendix C contains reference material for setting up a tracking label. Conformity Certificate The US law requires that each import (and domestic manufacturer) shipment be "accompanied" by the required certificate. Certificate must include all applicable CPSC rules, standards, bans, or regulations. Under the Commission's rule at for products manufactured overseas, the certificate must be issued by the importer. For products produced domestically, the certificate must be issued by the U.S. manufacturer. The importer or U.S. manufacturer is required to "furnish" the certificate to its distributors and retailers. The Commission's rule states that this requirement is satisfied if the importer or U.S. manufacturer provides its distributors and retailers a reasonable means to access the certificate. Please see the following link for more information or contact your nearest Intertek lab. 54 | P a g e http://www.cpsc.gov/businfo/frnotices/fr09/certification.pdf Note-The information about regulatory requirements for Canada and USA are being provided for reference only. It is vendor’s responsibility to ensure that they frequently check and comply with all updated regulations and requirements depending on the type of product and styling. 55 | P a g e CHAPTER 4 Care Instructions and Labeling 56 | P a g e 57 | P a g e The vendor is responsible for labeling and packaging for softlines products. The regulations and guidelines for label and package use are very detailed, so it is important that the vendor read this section carefully. It outlines Regulatory and mandated labeling and packaging guidelines and provides reference material on care instructions. The nominated label suppliers for HBC and L&T are SML, Avery Denison, Cadica and Nexgen. Avery Denison is nominated supplier for Saks Fifth Avenue and for Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH, International Trimming and Labels (ITL) is a nominated supplier. Fur Policy and labeling for HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH Any products that contain real or faux fur (no matter how small the quantity) must be properly labeled on all items, and show the fur’s country of origin. Any advertisements must also have the disclosure “fur products labeled to show country of origin of imported furs”, see below for examples for real fur. Products that have faux fur must be labelled as faux fur or fake fur. Apparel and Accessories with Faux Fur or Fake Fur in any amount must follow fiber content textile labeling and ensure to call out that it is Faux fur or Fake fur on the label. It is company policy that we do not purchase items that may contain fur from the "asiatic raccoon" also referred to as the "raccoon dog", or dog and cat fur. Items with real fur trim must be supplied from legitimate factories/suppliers with proper documentation to confirm legitimacy. Canada and the U.S. have legislation in place for health and safety procedures in abattoirs and fur farms to ensure fur has been removed in a humane manner. All accessories or apparel items that have fur or fur trim will require documentation confirming origin of species and source country. Any suppliers who have engaged in fraudulent practices of exporting fur or mislabeling origin of species will be penalized and goods will not be accepted. Additionally the label for Real Fur should disclose; If the fur is pointed, printed, dyed, bleached, or artificially colored. If none of these treatments applies, the fur should be labeled as “natural.”, followed by the animal name. If the fur product is composed in whole or substantial part (more than 10 percent of surface area) of pieces such as paws, tails, sides, flanks, gills, ears ,throats, heads, scraps or waste fur. If the fur is used or damaged. The textile or wool content of any part of the content. For example a wool coat with fur trim, the label must disclose the wool content as required by Wool Act and Rules The content of fur coat lining must be disclosed if lining provides added warmth. If the lining serves only structural purposes, its fiber does not have to be disclosed. Examples of Real Fur Country of Origin labeling: Rabbit fur from China Fourrure de lapin de Chine Rabbit fur trimming from China Garniture en fourrure de lapin de Chine Rabbit fur pompom from China Pompon en fourrure de lapin de Chine 58 | P a g e HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH textile labeling requirements Under federal requirements, manufacturers, retailers, importers, and distributors are required to abide by the following regulations concerning labels: The country of origin must be displayed on a permanent label, see Appendix C for examples. The type of fibers contained in the fabric must be displayed by generic name (e.g. cotton, nylon, rayon, etc.). Each fiber present in the amount of five (5) per cent or more of the garment must be declared as a percentage of the total fiber weight of the article. These percentages must be listed in descending order. Sectional disclosure is required for items having sections or parts differing in fiber content; for example, if the body and sleeve have different fiber content, then each section’s content must be declared on the label. All labels must display the correct CA identification number: CA #00234 for The Bay products All labels must display the correct RN identification number: RN #123455 for L&T and RN#92087 for SAKS products . Garment labels must be permanently attached and be able to withstand 10 cleanings or the useful life of the article, whichever is less. The label, the care, and any additional written information must remain legible for this length of time. Non-permanent labels are acceptable on items such as undergarments, gloves, and headwear. Care Label must be sewn in permanently and must comply with regulations. If label is not visible through packaging, care must be repeated on packaging. For Saks Fifth Avenue, care labeling symbols are used .Refer below for more details at the end of this chapter. Additional requirements for Canada Label must be both in English and French of equal size in letters no smaller than 1.6 mm. French is required on all product labeling and packaging and anything that is written in English must also be in French. The French inscriptions cannot be smaller than those in English language and must be flawless. HBC further requires that care instruction labels should be taffeta ribbon or woven. Paper labels are not permitted. Label placement For label placement please, refer to applicable textile labeling requirements for country of origin and Brand Label Kits or Contact Buyer for requirements. Care Instructions Vendors may find the care instructions and care codes on the following pages. This can also be provided on the Packaging & Labeling/Trim Detail sheets of the Technical Specification Packs. To determine the proper care instructions at the time of laboratory testing, please use the proposed/recommended care mentioned in charts below and then refer to testing report for confirmation or laboratory suggested care. 59 | P a g e Recommended care instructions with codes by end use and fabrics/yarns: WOVENS PRODUCT Tops & Bottoms FIBER CONTENT CARE Cotton, Nylon, Polyester, Acetate and blends with them Silk and silk blends, wool and wool blends, Rayon, Viscose & Modal Linen and Linen Blends 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a (Cotton, Linen) OR 62/62a (Other Fibers), 87/87a 4/4a, 34/34a, 43/43a, 62/62a OR 81/81a Tops & Bottoms with Beads, Sequins, Glitter, Foil prints &/or Delicate fabrics All fibers Denim Cotton, Cotton Blends and Stretch Denims Blazer, Jackets lined/unlined Outerwear All fibers All fibers with/without coating/laminating/film, except wool Wool 4/4a, 34/34a, 44/44a or 41/41a 61/61a , 87/87a Delicate fabrics: 4/4a or 5/5a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 68/68a, 70/70a, 81/81a With Embellishments: 5/5a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 41/41a, 62/62a, 67/67a 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a 4/4a, or 108/108a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 65/65a, 87/87a 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 65/65a, 82/82a 81/81a Sleepwear & Robes 100% Cotton/Blends including brushed & Terry 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a Sleepwear & Robes All synthetic fibers including brushed and terry 4/4a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a Sleepwear & Robes Silks, Wool, Merino & Cashmere 5/5a, 105/105a, 34/34a, 43/43a 87/87a Leather Garments Lined and unlined 85/85a KNITS PRODUCT FIBER CONTENT CARE Dresses, Jackets/Blazersunlined, pants, shorts, rompers, jumpsuits, overalls, skirts, Sleepwear & Robes Tops and T-shirts Cotton, linen, nylon, Rayon, polyester and blends with these fibers, 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a, 84/84a (applicable to linen only) all fibers except Linen and linen blends Knitted tops/Tees and bottoms Linen and Linen Blends 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a (cottons) or62/62a other fiber 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 61/61a or 84/84a Jog Suits, Sweatshirts, Pants, Shorts and Jackets- Velour, microfleece, polar or jersey Fleece; 100% cotton, 100% Synthetic and cotton/polyester, cotton/nylon and cotton/spandex blends including Brushed and Pile fabrics Silk, Wool, Merino, Cashmere & and Modal Sleepwear/lounge & Robes 3/3a, 11/11a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a, 4/4a, 114/114a, 34/34a 41/41a, 62/62a 60 | P a g e SWEATERS FIBER CONTENT PRODUCT CARE For styles with button or zippers, please, see care library below for additional care options Basic Sweater knits Cotton, Acrylic, Polyester and blend with these 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 62/62a, 87/87a Cashmere 5/5a, 105/105a, 113/113a, 34/34a, 52/52a, 68/68a, 87/87a 5/5a, 105/105a, 34/34a, 43/43a,47/47a, 68/68a, 87/87a 4/4a, 35/35a, 43/43a, 62/62a, 87/87a Wool, Merino, Lamb’s wool, Silk. Delicate or embellished All fibers 83/83a Dry Clean Only—Can only be used when care by another method will damage the goods. 86/86a: if using Professional Dry Clean only—then label must state the specific chemical and processing that can be used. ACCESSORIES AND SWIM PRODUCT FIBER CONTENT CARE Mittens, Gloves, Leg Warmers, Scarves and Shawls (Knitted or woven) Mittens, Gloves, Leg Warmers, Scarves and Shawls (knitted or woven) Acrylic, Cotton, Polyester and blends 4/4a, 114/114a, 35/35a, 44/44a Wool and wool blends 5/5a, 34/34a, 43/43, 47/47a, 62/62a 87/87a Fancy Headwear Wool felt and other 81/81a Woven or Knit Caps and Hats and straw hats All fibers except wool 4/4a, 35/35a, 41/41a, 62/62a Socks & tights basic constructions All fibers 11/11a, 114/114a, 3/3a, 35/35a, 44/44a Socks & Tights-Delicate knitted Stitch Construction All fibers 114/114a, 3/3a, 35/35a, 41/41a, or 43/43a Woven and Knit Swimwear and Exercise Leotards Woven and Knit Swimwear and Exercise Leotards All fiber -- basic designs 4/4a, 35/35a, 44/44a, 41/41a All fiber—with embellishments such as foil print or rhinestones All fibers 11/11a, 5/5a, 35/35a, 41/41a All fibers 5/5a, 35/35a, 41/41a or 43/43a All fibers. 4/4a, 114/114a, 35/35a, 41/41a Woven or Knit Briefs, Panties, Undershirts and Camisoles Bra Underwire &/OR Padded Bra Seamed soft Cup 3/3a, 35/35a/44/44a, 63/63a 61 | P a g e General Care Instructions with Codes: Care Code English French Washing / Lavage 1/1a Laver à la machine à l'eau chaude au cycle normal 5/5a 6/6a Machine wash in hot water at a normal setting Machine wash in warm water at a normal setting Machine wash in warm water at a gentle setting Machine wash in cool water at a gentle setting Hand wash in cool water Do not wash 7/7a Wash separately Laver séparément 8/8a Wash before wear Laver avant de porter 9/9a Wash colours separately Laver les couleurs séparément 10/10a Wash dark colours separately Laver les couleurs foncées séparément 11/11a Wash inside out Laver à l'envers 12/12a Surface clean with damp cloth or sponge Nettoyer la surface avec un linge ou une éponge humide 13/13a 14/14a Do not wring Wash with gentle soap - no detergent Ne pas essorer Laver avec un savon doux - pas de détergent 15/15a Machine wash in cold water at a normal setting Laver à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle normal 16/16a Wash with buttons fastened Boutonner avant de laver 17/17a 18/18a Wash with zipper fastened Hand wash separately, in cold water Fermer la glissière avant de laver Laver à la main séparément à l’eau froide 2/2a 3/3a 4/4a 19/19a 20/20a 21/21a 22/22a 23/23a 24/24a 25/25a Remove from washer promptly Wash with like colours Do not use liquid fabric softener Close all fasteners before washing Do not store wet Do not allow to sit in washer or dryer Machine wash separately in cool water at gentle setting, removing promptly 26/26a Do not use fabric softener 27/27a Remove belt before wash 28/28a Remove decoration before washing 101/101a Remove Fur Trim before washing Laver à la machine à l'eau tiède au cycle normal Laver à la machine à l'eau tiède au cycle délicat Laver à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle délicat Laver à la main à l'eau froide Ne pas laver Retirer rapidement de la laveuse Laver avec des couleurs semblables Ne pas utiliser d'assouplissant liquide Fermer toutes les attaches avant de laver Sécher avant de ranger Retirer immédiatement de la laveuse ou de la sécheuse Laver séparément à la machine à l'eau froide au cycle délicat; retirer rapidement Ne pas utiliser d'assouplissant Enlever la ceinture avant de laver Enlever la garniture avant de laver Enlever la garniture en fourrure avant de laver 62 | P a g e Care Code English French Washing Continue / Lavage (suite) 102/102a 103/103a 104/104a 105/105a 106/106a 107/107a 108/108a 109/109a 110/110a 111/111a 112/112a 113/113a 114/114a 115/115a Remove fake fur trim before washing Remove pouch before washing Wash Bright colours separately Do not twist or wring Spot Clean only Machine wash hot with like colours at normal setting Machine wash in warm water with like colours at gentle setting Machine wash cold with like colours at gentle setting Hand wash hot Hand wash warm Enlever la garniture en similifourrure avant de laver Enlever la poche avant de laver Laver les couleurs vives séparément Ne pas tordre ni essorer Nettoyer les taches seulement Laver à la machine à l’eau chaude avec des couleurs semblables au cycle normal Laver à la machine à l’eau tiède avec des couleurs semblables au cycle délicat Laver à la machine à l’eau froide avec des couleurs semblables au cycle délicat Laver à la main à l'eau chaude Laver à la main à l'eau tiède remove promptly with mild detergent Wash in mesh bag Remove collar before washing retirer rapidement avec un détergent doux Laver dans un sac en filet Retirer le col avant de laver 116/116a Close all hooks before washing Attacher toutes les agrafes avant de laver 117/117a To protect zipper pull, wash in a mesh bag Laver dans un filet pour protéger la tirette Bleaching / Blanchiment 31/31a Use chlorine bleach as directed 32/32a 33/33a Do not use chlorine based bleach Use non-chlorine bleach only Utiliser un agent de blanchiment chloré suivant les indications Ne pas utiliser d’agent de blanchiment chloré Utiliser seulement un agent de blanchiment non chloré 34/34a 35/35a Do not bleach Only non-chlorine bleach when needed Ne pas javelliser Utiliser un agent de blanchiment non chloré au besoin Drying / Séchage 40/40a 41/41a 42/42a 43/43a Tumble dry at medium to high temperature Hang to dry Drip dry Dry flat Sécher par culbutage à température moyenne ou élevée Suspendre pour sécher Sécher par égouttement Sécher à plat 44/44a Tumble dry at low temperature Sécher par culbutage à basse température 63 | P a g e Care Code English French Drying continued / Séchage (suite) 45/45a Tumble dry – remove promptly Sécher par culbutage – retirer rapidement 46/46a Block to dry Maintain original size and shape while drying Hang to dry away from sunlight Line dry while twisted Mettre sur forme pour sécher Maintenir la forme et la grandeur d’origine pendant le séchage Sécher par culbutage à température basse ou moyenne Suspendre à l’abri du soleil pour sécher Maintenir tordu et suspendre pour sécher 52/52a Do not tumble dry Reshape and lay flat to dry Ne pas sécher par culbutage Remettre en forme et sécher à plat 53/53a with tennis balls avec des balles de tennis 54/54a 55/55a Tumble dry Tumble dry high Sécher par culbutage Sécher par culbutage à température élevée 56/56a Tumble dry medium Sécher par culbutage à température moyenne 47/47a 48/48a 49/49a 50/50a 51/51a Tumble dry low to medium temperature Ironing / Repassage 60/60a 61/61a 62/62a 63/63a 64/64a 65/65a 66/66a 67/67a 68/68a Iron at high setting Iron at medium setting Iron at low setting Do not iron Repasser à température élevée Repasser à température moyenne Repasser à basse température Ne pas repasser Permanent press Iron on reverse side Dampen garment before ironing Do not iron motif Sans repassage Repasser à l’envers Humecter le vêtement avant de le repasser Ne pas repasser le motif Iron at low temperature on reverse Repasser à l’envers à basse température 70/70a Do not iron decoration Ne pas repasser la garniture 71/71a Do not iron print Ne pas repasser l’imprimé 72/72a Cool Iron as needed Represser à basse température au besoin 73/73a 74/74a To maintain crease effect do not iron Steam iron if necessary Ne pas repasser pour préserver l'effet froissé Repasser avec un fer à vapeur au besoin 75/75a Cool Iron reverse side Repasser à l’envers à basse température 76/76a Do not iron label Ne pas repasser l’étiquette Dry Cleaning / Nettoyage à sec 80/80a Dry clean Nettoyer à sec 81/81a 82/82a 83/83a 84/84a Dry clean with caution Do not dry clean Nettoyer à sec avec précaution Ne pas nettoyer à sec Dry clean only Can be dry-cleaned Nettoyer à sec seulement Peut être nettoyé à sec 64 | P a g e Care Code English French Dry Cleaning continued / Nettoyage à sec (suite) 85/85a 86/86a Professionally leather clean only Nettoyeur professionnel pour cuir seulement Professional dry clean only 862/862a Short Cycle 863/863a Low Heat Nettoyage à sec professionnel seulement 864/864a No Steam 87/87a or dry clean Sans vapeur 88/88a 89/89a Cover toggle sets with foil prior to cleaning Close all fasteners before dry cleaning. Cycle court Basse température ou nettoyer à sec Couvrir les bûchettes avec de l’aluminium avant de nettoyer Fermer toutes les attaches avant de nettoyer à sec. For further information regarding textile labeling for Canada, and English and French translation of Fibre names, please visit the Textile Labelling Act at the Competition Bureau of Canada at: http://www.competitionbureau.gc.ca/internet/index.cfm?itemID=1333&lg=e For further information regarding textile labeling for US, please visit the Federal Trade Commission Textile and Wool Act at: Lord &Taylor http://business.ftc.gov/documents/bus21-threading-your-way-through-labelingrequirements-under-textile-and-wool-acts 65 | P a g e Care Labeling symbols for Saks Fifth Avenue only ISO Symbols 66 | P a g e 67 | P a g e CHAPTER 5 Stuffed Articles and Upholstery Labeling 68 | P a g e 69 | P a g e Canada and the United States each have different requirements for stuffed articles labeling for apparel. Thus we have separated the requirements below. Apparel shipping to both countries must follow the more stringent requirements. Stuffed Articles requirements in Canada The Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation is administered at the provincial level in Ontario, Manitoba, and Québec. It is intended to protect the public from use of unclean filling materials. Items such as insulated outerwear, quilted shirts, bedding, and any product that contains hidden fill are covered by the legislation. Those wishing to manufacture stuffed articles for sale in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec must register with the appropriate government offices and fasten disclosure labels to their products. Note that registration must occur at the factory level: importers, distributors and agents are not eligible for registration. Since government inspection of our stores occurs on a regular basis, it is essential that all products be in compliance, using the correct label. Products found not to be in compliance will be removed from sale. The following section provides information on the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation and the obligations it places on vendors. This information is important for the vendor to remember when negotiating costs before orders are placed. The complete Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Regulation of Ontario is available online at www.tssa.org Registration & Fees Registration for the Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Act is mandatory for manufacturers whose products will be sold in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec, but it is limited to the factory level. Importers, distributors, agents, and retailers are not eligible to register. Manufacturers located in one of the above provinces must register in that province. Manufacturers not located in one of these provinces must register in all three. Since registration applies to the factory of production, the address used for registration must agree with the country of origin. For example, if the factory is in Indonesia, the trading company in Hong Kong must not be the vendor of record for the registration. Registration application forms are available from the provincial government offices Contact information provided in this chapter and it is the vendor's responsibility to register directly with each of the provincial offices. Hbc is not equipped to handle the paperwork, and a fee will be charged if it becomes necessary. The total fee for registering with all three provinces is about $1200.00 (CAN). Registration fees must be renewed annually. In order to keep his or her current registration number, the registrant must file the renewal application prior to the registration's expiry date. If the renewal application is not filed in time, the registration number will lapse and a new number be assigned, which can cause problems during an inspection. 70 | P a g e Labels All upholstered and stuffed articles offered for sale in Ontario, Manitoba, or Québec must bear a label in an approved format. The following information applies to Ontario; the vendor should contact the appropriate provincial government office for details on labels in Manitoba or Québec. Labels can be produced by any printer and must adhere to the following guidelines. Some examples of appropriate labels are mentioned below for reference: Registration number: Vendors located in one of the three above provinces must put the registration number from that province on the label. Other vendors can use any of the three registration numbers on the label (preferably the Ontario number), or they can use all three. The inspectors have the capability of cross-checking all the numbers when examining products in the store. Content: The vendor must indicate the fill content in this section. It is essential that the specific content and percentage are given here (e.g., "100 per cent polyethylene foam" rather than "foam fill"). Consult Fill Content Definitions on TSSA website, or contact the appropriate provincial government office for further details. If there is any doubt about the correct declaration for a filling, a sample should be submitted to the provincial office for a ruling. Size: The label must be one of the approved sizes as per the given examples. Detailed information on label sizes may be obtained by contacting the appropriate provincial government office. Label material: The label must be of a permanent material and must be able to withstand cleaning. Paper or stickers are not acceptable. Label placement: Labels must be securely fastened to the article in a conspicuous location. Packaged goods must have the labels clearly visible in order that they may be read without opening the package or removing the contents. Newly registered manufacturers should submit a sample copy of their labels to the appropriate provincial government office for approval. 71 | P a g e Joint Federal-Provincial Labels Federal laws require a fiber content statement for all textile components in bed pillows, comforters, sleeping bags and quilted garments. These statements may be given on the bottom of provincial labels under the heading "Federal Requirement," or on a separate label. Inspections All upholstered and stuffed articles are subject to audit inspections by provincial government staff at any time, from the manufacturing stage to the retail level. Such inspections may include routine representative sampling. 72 | P a g e Contact Information: Ontario Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Program Technical Standards & Safety Authority 14th Floor Centre Tower 3300 Bloor Street West Toronto, ON M8X 2X4 Registration Service Toll Free : 1-877-682-8772 Tel: (416) 734-3408 Fax: (416) 231-9601 Email : [email protected] Peta-Gaye Willis General Information and Label Approval Tel: (416) 734-3461 Fax: (416) 231-9162 Email : [email protected] For questions about registration and labeling requirements in: Manitoba Manitoba Consumers' Bureau 302-258 Portage Avenue Winnipeg, Manitoba R3C 0B6 Québec Gouvernement du Québec Ministère de l'Industrie, du Commerce De la Science et de la Technologie Direction des activités commerciales Et des opérations Québec Industrie et Commerce 380, rue Saint-Antoine Ouest, 4e étage, Montréal, QC H2Y 3X7 Ms. Kristine McKay Tel: (204) 945-6368 Fax: (204) 945-0728 Email : [email protected] Danielle Leger Tel: (514) 499-2176 Fax: (514) 864-9276 Email : [email protected] For inquirers relating to Federal textile labeling requirements: Industry Canada Fair Business Practices Branch 17th floor, phase 1, Place du Portage 50 Victoria Street Hull, QC, K1A 0C9 Tel: 819-997-4282 Toll Free: 1-800-348-5358 Fax: 819-997-0324 www.cb-bc.gc.ca 73 | P a g e Stuffed Articles Requirements for USA All filling material must be new and free of contaminates such as splinters, metal chip. All labeling must follow the Federal Trade Commissions' Textile and Wool Act and Rules and/or the International Feather and Down Bureau labeling. Law Label Filled clothing such as vests and coats and jackets, for most states at present do not require the complex Law Tag label that is needed for bedding and upholstered products except for the state of Utah. However, these garments must have a sewn-in label that complies with the Federal Trade Commission’s apparel labeling, were the filling is declared. If linings, interlinings, fillings, or paddings are incorporated into a garment for warmth (including metallic-coated textile linings and linings or fillings that contain any amount of wool), their fiber content must be disclosed as a sectional disclosure. For example: Covering: 100% Rayon Filling: 100% Cotton Even if the outer fabric and the lining or interlinings are made of the same material, the fiber content should be disclosed separately. Shell: 100% Polyester Interlining: 100% Polyester If the lining, interlining, filling, or padding is the only textile portion of the product, (with the outer part made of a non-textile material such as rubber, vinyl, fur, or leather), the fiber content of the lining, interlining, filling, or padding must be disclosed if it is incorporated into the product for warmth. Down Filled Labeling Any product labeled as "DOWN" must contain a minimum of 75% down and plumules. Manufacturers must disclose the minimum percentage of down in a product. Down products normally contain small amounts of other components. If these other components exceed the following MAXIMUMS, the percentages of each must be listed on the label. Quill Feathers are not permitted. 74 | P a g e FILL TYPE Down Fiber Feather Fiber Chopped, Damaged & Crushed Feathers Land fowl Feathers Residue MAXIMUM % 10% 10% 2% 2% 2% ALL NEW MATERIAL consisting of Feather and Down blended products containing 5% and 49% down, should be labeled as below Keeping in mind that Feather and Down normally contain small amounts of other components. If these other components exceed following MAXIMUMS, the percentage of each listed on the label. Quill Feathers are not FILL TYPE Down Fiber Feather Fiber Chopped, Damaged & Crushed Feathers Land fowl Feathers Residue FEATHERS AND DOWN (95%Duck Feathers, 5%Down) CONTENTS STERILIZED between example. products the must be permitted. MAXIMUM % 10% 10% 7% 5% 2% For inquirers relating to Federal Textile Labelling requirements visit the Federal Trade Commission website. 75 | P a g e CHAPTER 6 Laboratory Testing 76 | P a g e 77 | P a g e Color Approval and Laboratory Testing This section provides technical details about color approval and testing requirements for HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH suppliers for softlines merchandise. Color Approvals prior to testing For visual color matching by using a light box: HBC, L&T ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH requires that matching must be conducted with at least three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white fluorescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no visible shade difference between all three light sources. Note: The vendor must use ‘Branded’ dyes and chemicals for a better color match. The spectrophotometer reading should be done by the dye house that will produce the bulk fabric. Here is the acceptable value guide the dye house should follow. Acceptable Value Guide CMC DE<0.80 Approved 0.80< CMC DE < 1.20 Approved, pending a visual assessment by the Product Development Manager CMC DE > 1.20 Rejected: do not submit; re-dip and test again Exceptions In cases of color dips that “flare” or are “difficult,” such as fluorescent shades, up to three (3) submissions may be sent for approval. No spectrophotometer reading is required for “heather” or “mélange” shades, small prints, satins, and jacquards, pile fabrics like polar fleece, looped terry, or velour. These fabrics cannot be successfully measured by a spectrophotometer. The visual color matching by using a light box must be conducted with at least three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and incandescent “A”. There should be no visible shade difference between all three light sources. Strike-offs, patterns, embroideries, and fabrics All strike-offs, patterns, and embroideries must be approved .Bulk fabric samples for all fabrics must also be approved prior to testing. The swatch size of a submitted strike-off should allow for at least one repeat. For co-ordinate sets, (e.g., a solid top and printed bottom), the vendor must send solid color dips and strike-offs at the same time. Patterns The patterns for sweaters (e.g., crochet designs, cable designs, etc.) should be large enough to allow for visual assessment. For yarn-dyed garments, the vendor must first submit all desk looms or knit downs of every pattern and colorway for review and final approval. 78 | P a g e Embroideries Embroideries should be sent on the correct ground color fabric to be assessed properly. Fabrics The vendor must send bulk fabric swatches in the correct hand feel, weight, and construction. The swatches must measure at least 8" x 11". The bulk fabric approval is only final once the testing meets HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH requirements. Notions, trims, and accessories The vendor must submit all notions, trims, and accessories that will be used for production together for approval on the Notions, Trims, and Accessories Sheet. The form must be filled out completely with all relevant information. It is vendor’s responsibility to ensure all trims and accessories used in making of garments must be compatible to overall garment and meet the HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH requirements. Testing Program for HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH Laboratory testing is a key mile stone at pre-production stage. Intertek Testing Services (ITS) is nominated agency to conduct 3rd party laboratory testing. Testing is vendor/mill paid. Vendors are required to make their fabric mills aware of HBC fabric standards and fabric mills are to ensure that the fabric meets the standards before shipping the bulk fabric to garment maker. Please refer to Laboratory Test Request Form (TRF) in appendices to be submitted along with required fabric / garment sample to ITS lab. Please fill the details of fabric and/or garment in the required section of TRF and submit to ITS lab along with style and trim detail sheet from tech packs. Fabric and garment samples submitted will be tested to proposed care instructions from Chapter 4 or as per care information provided in the tech. pack. For testing results that are passing to the proposed care, the Vendor will use those care instructions for bulk production of labeling. For testing that fails the proposed care instructions, there will be a dialogue to determine an alternative customer & product friendly care. The vendor may be requested to retest the new care instructions. In cases were the same fabrication is used for multiple styles with different delivery dates, styles with first deliveries will be submitted for full fabric and garment testing, and styles with subsequent deliveries will be tested to garment test packages only. For HBC and L&T styles with multiple fabrics, all fabric samples will be tested for fabric test parameters. The garment will be tested for testing parameters applicable for garment. For Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH, fabric and garment are tested together at the pre-production stage. Vendor to resolve any quality issues before bulk production if there is a failed test report from the Intertek lab. Vendor is to re-submit the samples to Intertek Lab, to conduct re-testing for failed 79 | P a g e parameters. Vendor will reference the original failed report number on the re-testing Test Request Form (TRF). After lab testing on fabric and garment is passed and Pre-production sample is approved as per requirements, vendor may proceed for bulk garment production. It is imperative that a pass lab test reports are available before starting of garment production. Inspection and Shipment process and policies continue as per the current practice. Sample Submission: Fabric Stage Bulk fabric must be as per HBC and L&T contracted fiber content, fabric construction and finishes. For each submission of bulk fabric to be tested, a full width of minimum 3 meter long sample is required for the darkest colour way. Additional colours are submitted in 1 meter full width. For all private and captive brands under all banners all colour ways need to be tested. For knit and woven fabric containing spandex an additional meter of full width in the darkest color is required. Where a style is colour blocked the fabric is to be tested to colour blocked testing performance, with each colour in equal proportion being sewn together and submitted with the bulk fabrics submission and the TRF must be checked off for colour blocked style. Special functional and performance finishes i.e. wrinkle resist and water repellency etc., must be declared on the TRF for lab to apply additional tests as applicable. Garment Stage Adult’s Styles: 2-3 Garment pieces in fit size and 4 Garments for sweaters testing packages 1-2 Additional garments may be required if Optional testing is to be conducted for special claims. Children’s Styles: 3 garments per styles without Components in fit size and 5 garments for sweater without components are required to be submitted with lab. 6-garments for styles with components in fit size and for styles with more than one print design submit one additional garment for testing on scrapable surfaces. Children sleepwear may require additional sample as per sizing Tables from the Children’s Sleepwear Flammability Requirement Guidelines in this manual. Garment samples must be made in bulk fabric, and all actual production trims and accessories. Testing procedure for Bulk Fabric and Pre-production garments The responsibilities outlined below are divided by stake holder and are to be carried out at different development and production stages. : 80 | P a g e Vendor’s Responsibilities: Vendor is to provide a correctly completed Test Request Form (TRF) and it must accompany all sample submissions to the designated laboratory for both fabric piece goods testing and preproduction garment testing. Vendor is responsible for the quality and performance of trims. Pre-production testing is required before actual production begins. Garments must incorporate actual production fabric and trims. Vendor to ensure that every garment supplied must have a correct care label sewn-in. Vendors provide the required number of samples (as mentioned above) to the nearest Intertek lab at the earliest possible stage with completed TRF, Tech pack cover sheet and trims sheet. Insufficient sample size and incomplete TRF may delay lab testing. Lab’s Responsibilities: • Fast Turnaround Time and conducts tests in accordance with HBC test protocols and regulatory requirements as applicable • At the conclusion of testing, ensure the test is rated overall as “Pass or Fail” • Conduct accurate and reliable tests • Promptly sends test results to Agents and Vendors and upload the test results onto the ITS Datalink • At time of fabric testing, the proposed care instruction is drawn from the Care Label Instructions in Chapter 4 and ITS should ensure that the care on the TRF matches. Intertek should advise on the care instructions’ suitability from test results. • Intertek is to retain the tested specimen on behalf of HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH as per specified retention timelines. • For Garments, if vendor needs to contact local Intertek office, and requests the sample to be returned to the vendor at vendor’s expense. Intertek will with notification to QA team and return the ½ failed samples to Li & Fung/Vendor. Li & Fung’s Responsibilities: • Li & Fung must clearly communicate and present appropriate fabric standard to the fabric suppliers/garment cutters and get their agreement to adhere to the standard before confirming the order. • At time of fabric testing, the proposed care instruction is drawn from the Care Label Instructions (Chapter 4) and the tech pack, and L&F should ensure that they are advised to Intertek on the TRF. Intertek should advise on the care instructions’ suitability from test results. Testing frequency for repeat orders For repeat or automatic replenishment garments, bulk fabric and garment will be tested as follows: If the same colours and fabrication are used within a year, the original lab test will serve as a standing document. 81 | P a g e If the automatic replenishment runs for more than one (1) year, the vendor will provide a new test. If there is a new finish or colour, new colorfastness tests will be required. If there is a change in the country of origin or fabric supplier, a new test will be required. Testing Packages and Prices Bulk Woven Tops (prices in USD) Bulk Woven Tops Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $175.00 $175.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification (at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Tear Strength Seam Slippage Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Tests for Woven Tops, see additional tests price list Colorfastness to Burnt Gas (Rayon and Acetate only – 1 cycle) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only) 82 | P a g e Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 Bulk Woven Bottoms (prices in USD) Bulk Woven Bottoms Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $175.00 $175.00 $410.00 $410.00 $410.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) # Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Leather Thickness Tensile / Bursting Strength Tear Strength Seam Slippage Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Tests at additional charges see additional tests price list Colorfastness to Burnt Gas (Rayon and Acetate only – 1 cycle) 83 | P a g e Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only) Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02& K01 for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 Bulk Fabric Outerwear (prices in USD) Bulk Woven Outerwear Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $175.00 $175.00 $380.00 $380.00 $380.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test package includes the following: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Fiber Identification * Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) # Care label verification (at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength 84 | P a g e • • • • Tear Strength Seam Slippage Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Tests at additional charges see additional tests price list *Fiber Identification of film and/or coating where applicable Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only) Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) Water Repellent, Spray test (all coated) Water Resistance, Rain test (when claimed) Water Proof (claimed only) fabric in fabric testing, seams in garment testing For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 K01 for Kids and K02 for adults PVC or PVC/PU Coated or Laminated Lightweight Jackets Asia Turkey USA Canada EU Adult Garment without lining $107.00 $107.00 $202.00 $202.00 $202.00 Adult Garment with lining $137.00 $137.00 $232.00 $232.00 $232.00 Children’s Garment without lining and without components $107.00 $107.00 $202.00 $202.00 $202.00 Children’s Garments without lining and with components $137.00 $137.00 $232.00 $232.00 $232.00 Children’s Garments with lining and with components $255.00 $255.00 $255.00 $255.00 $255.00 Total Lead Content of PVC or Applied Surface Coatings (for Children’s Garments ) $24.00 $24.00 $43.00 $43.00 $43.00 (prices in USD) *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 85 | P a g e Bulk Woven Intimate Apparel (prices in USD) Intimate Apparel Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $165.00 $165.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) # Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Tear Strength Seam Slippage Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Tests at additional charges see additional tests price list Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 86 | P a g e Bulk Woven Suiting (prices in USD) Bulk Woven Suiting Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $165.00 $165.00 $410.00 $410.00 $410.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric) # Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Tear Strength Seam Slippage Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Tests at additional charges see additional tests price list Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) SA Rating - after 5X laundering (Required For No Iron, Wrinkle Free/Resist, and Easy Care Products Only) No Iron (NI) Wrinkle Free & Resist/Easy Care Soil Release-after 5x laundering (Required for Soil Release Fabrics Only) Stain Resistant/Repellent After 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 87 | P a g e Woven Fabrics-Additional Color Testing (prices in USD) Additional Color Testing Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $52.00 $52.00 $145.00 $145.00 $145.00 Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list See Additional Tests price list Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)* Colorfastness to Burnt Gas (Rayon and Acetate only – 1 cycle) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada (the Bay styles combined with L&T/SAKS) refer addendum K01 for Kids and K02 for adults Bulk Knit Tops (prices in USD) Bulk Knit Tops Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $175.00 $175.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care Label Verification ( Review at No Additional Charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) 88 | P a g e Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 Bulk Knit Bottoms (prices in USD) Bulk Knit Bottoms Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $175.00 $175.00 $410.00 $410.00 $410.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care Label Verification ( Review at No Additional Charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m2., oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) 89 | P a g e Attachment strength (Children’s only) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 Bulk Knit Intimate Apparel (prices in USD) Bulk Knit Intimate Apparel Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $165.00 $165.00 $385.00 $385.00 $385.00 Bulk Fabric for HBC and L&T Bulk Garment and Fabric for Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care Label Verification (No Additional Charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Fabric Weight (g/m2, oz./yd.2) Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional test for Intimate Apparel, see additional tests price list Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) Pile Retention (corduroy, velvet, velveteen only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only) 90 | P a g e Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Attachment strength (Children’s only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 Knit Fabrics- Additional Colorway (prices in USD) Additional Colorway Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $52.00 $52.00 $145.00 $145.00 $145.00 The additional color way test package includes the following: Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Optional Additional Color Test, see additional tests price list Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)* Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swimwear only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Colorfastness to Sea Water (swimwear only) Stretch & Recovery (5% spandex or greater) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surfaces only) For additional requirement of Testing Flammability for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults * Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. 91 | P a g e The following test packages are for Pre-Production stage Garments with additional fabric yardage. Product Testing Leather and Suede (prices in USD) Leather & Suede Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $230.00 $230.00 $506.00 $506.00 $506.00 This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification (Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Dry-cleaning or Professional leather clean Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness to Profession Leather Cleaning Leather Thickness Seam Slippage Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength , Seam Strength of Binding pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Adhesion of Finish Blocking of Finish Optional Testing for Leather/Suede, see additional tests price list Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Resistance to Corrosion Attachment strength (Children’s only) Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method 92 | P a g e Sweaters (prices in USD) Asia Turkey USA Canada EU Sweaters $165.00 $165.00 $365.00 $365.00 $365.00 This testing package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification ( Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Tensile / Bursting Strength Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength, Seam Strength of Binding Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. Per dozen) Pile Retention (velvet, velveteen only) Formaldehyde Content pH of fabric (acid washed/bleached garments) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Resistance to Corrosion Attachment strength (Children’s only) Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults Product Testing - Cashmere (Adult and Children’s Items) Asia (prices in USD) Fabric Test Per Lot AATCC 20 / 20a $119.00 Fabric Test By Color AATCC 8, 132, 15, and ASTM D3512 $64.00 Garment Test By Style AATCC 158 / 179, 158 and ASTM D3786 $61.50 Garment Test Per Lot 16 CFR 1610 / 1615 and 1616 $30.50 Package Price for whole protocol - Asia $220.00 93 | P a g e *Sampling Size: For fabric test, 3 yards of fabric in full width direction is needed. 1 yard of fabric in full width is required for each additional color way. For Garment, 3 pieces of finished garments are needed. *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. *Pricing available upon request, and location capability. For additional Testing package for Canada (refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults Garment Test Package 1(Garment stage Testing for HBC and L&T Vendors) Actual pre-production garment including all actual trims (prices in USD) Adults Woven & Knits Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $75.00 $75.00 $237.00 $237.00 $237.00 This test package includes the following: Dimensional Stability and Appearance in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Garment Skew Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Optional Test Component operability For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-01 and K02 for adults *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method. The package includes testing of additional Canadian regulatory requirements: Label Review Labeling – Packaging Fiber Content Label CA No. or Dealer Identity Country of Origin The Language of Inscription (mandatory in Quebec) Labeling of Pre-Packaged Consumer Textile Articles Care Label Stuffed Articles (if applicable) 94 | P a g e FLAMMABILITY Flammability – General Wearing Apparel (Not sleepwear) Asia Turkey USA Canada EU Adults Woven & Knits additional tests for Canada (K02) Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610 for the 1st fabric. $55 $55 $105 $105 $105 Special price for individual test Flammability Test $38 $38 $75 $75 $75 Turkey USA Canada EU (prices in USD) Garment Test Package 2 Actual pre-production garment including all actual trims (prices in USD) Asia Children’s Garments either Knit or Woven $85.00 $85.00 $250.00 $250.00 $250.00 Safety Tests $105.00 $105.00 $237.00 $237.00 $237.00 The Children’s Garments Test package includes the following: Dimensional Stability and Appearance in: Laundering or Dry-cleaning Garment Skew Seam Strength / Seam Bursting Strength Flammability (sleepwear only)* Children’s Garment will require safety review where designs have components The Children’s Safety Test package includes the following: Drawstrings Sharp Points / Sharp Edges (Children’s only) Small Parts (Buttons and attachments) Formaldehyde Content Lead/ Heavy Metal Content ☼ Optional test Additional Canadian testing requirements for Kids wear styles see J-02, J-03 & K01 The package includes testing of additional Canadian regulatory requirements: Label Review Labeling – Packaging Fiber Content Label CA No. or Dealer Identity Country of Origin The Language of Inscription (mandatory in Quebec) Labeling of Pre-Packaged Consumer Textile Articles Care Label Stuffed Articles (if applicable) 95 | P a g e Garment Size SAFETY Drawstrings on Children’s Upper Outerwear FLAMMABILITY Flammability – General Wearing Apparel (Not sleepwear) Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting Sleepwear) Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight fitting sleepwear) ANALYTICAL ☼Total Lead in paint or similar surface coating for children’s products (＜14 yrs) ☼Total Lead in baby bibs or similar products that are brought into contact with the user's mouth in the course of normal use Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $70 $70 $105 $105 $105 Special price for individual test Drawstrings $33 $33 $64 $64 $64 Flammability- General Wearing Apparel $38 $38 $75 $75 $75 Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting) $38 $38 $94 $94 $94 Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight fitting sleepwear) - After 1 Wash Total Lead $57 $57 $109 $109 $109 $24 $24 $56 $56 $56 $38.00 $38.00 $206.00 $206.00 $206.00 (prices in USD) Woven & Knits additional testing for Canada (K01) Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610 for the 1st fabric. Tight Fitting Sleepwear Please Note: Flame retardant finishes are not permitted on any Hudson’s Bay Company, Lord & Taylor or SAKS merchandise without prior approval from Global Sourcing. Children’s Sleepwear Testing: Additional samples and tech pack should be submitted to Intertek for children’s sleepwear flammability testing and garment review as follows: a) Tight Fitting Sleepwear: 1 prototype garment in each size (infants up to 7 kg, polo pajamas, sleepers, etc) + Spec. Pack b) Loose Fitting Sleepwear: 2 prototype garments from bulk fabric and production quality seams in size 14X or largest size in the range for size ranges 0 to 6 (includes night gowns, nightshirts, bath robes, pajamas, baby doll pajamas in sizes up to and including 14X) + spec. pack. 96 | P a g e Accessories-Ties, Scarves, Gloves, Socks (prices in USD) Accessories - Ties, Scarves, Gloves, Socks Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $145.00 $145.00 $305.00 $305.00 $305.00 This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification (Label Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list • • • • • • • • • • Formaldehyde Content (Children’s only) Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Resistance to Corrosion Attachment strength (Children’s only) Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. per dozen) Sock Fit Test [Sock only] Abrasion Resistance [Socks only] For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum K01 & J-02 for Kids and K02 for adults # Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method Required Sample Sizes: Scarves: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way. Mittens: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way. Gloves: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way. Socks: 3 pairs in darkest color way. Tights/Pantyhose: 3 pairs in darkest color way. Children’s Accessory Items with attached components: 6 garments required + one yard of fabric in darkest color way. 97 | P a g e Accessories-Hats and Caps (prices in USD) Accessories- Hats & Caps Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $180.00 $180.00 $375.00 $375.00 $375.00 This test package includes the following: Fiber Identification* Flammability (Non-exempt fabric)# Care label verification (Review at no additional charge) Dimensional Stability in: Laundering, Dry-cleaning or Professional leather clean Appearance Rating Colorfastness to Accelerated Laundering Colorfastness to Dry-cleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration [except ties] Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Light Tensile / Bursting Strength Pilling Resistance-30 minutes Attachment strength (Children’s only) Optional Test at additional charges, see additional tests price list Lead Content (scrapeable surface coatings only) Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Resistance to Corrosion Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) Colorfastness to Water (Contrast color) Fabric Weight (g/m sq., oz./yd.2) / Total Weight (lbs. Per dozen) For additional Testing package for Canada refer addendum J-02 & K01 for Kids and K02 for adults * Additional charge required for Children’s sleepwear 16 CFR 1615/1616 *Fiber content test includes 2 Fiber blend by chemical method. Additional charge for additional Fiber and by microscopic method Required Sample Sizes: Hats: 3 garments + one yard of fabric in darkest color way. Children’s Accessory Items with attached components: 6 garments required + one yard of fabric in darkest color way. Straw hat: no laundering performed 98 | P a g e Accessories-Handbags, Backpacks, Totes, Duffle bags Asia (prices in USD) Handbags, Backpacks, Totes, Duffle Bags (HL&A #01) $195.00 This test package includes the following: Overall Dimensions Length x Width x Height Fabric weight Total weight Number of Compartments (Main, External and Interior Pockets and other features) Labeling review Flammability (CCPSA Textile Flammability Regulation) Lead in Coating (children’s product) Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness to Light Material Defect Resistance To Corrosion (Metal Components Resistance To Flexing: (Vinyl) Strength Properties (Loading Capacity, Handle and Strap Strength) Strength and Operability for Closures (all snaps, zippers and buttons) Additional Tests at additional charges, • Colorfastness to Water (Contrast Colourblocked products) Total Lead in PVC Vinyl (Children Only) Heavy Metal (Canada) (Children items, for coating and painting) Small Parts Sharp Edges & Points Additional Tests for USA requirements at additional charges Flammability 16 CFR 1500.44 Tracking label for children’s products Lead in accessible components CA Prop 65 Formaldehyde Emissions Required sample size: 5 full samples for basic package test 99 | P a g e Accessories-Belts Asia (prices in USD) $130.00 BELTS (HL&A # 03) Tests included in package • Attachement Strength (Buckle) • Stitch Reinforcement Strength • Hole Pullout Strength • Fabric Strength • Colorfastness to Crocking • Colorfastness to Perspiration • Resistance to Corrosion (Metal Components) • Labeling review Additional tests if applicable with additional testing cost • Heavy Metal Content Testing in Surface Coating Material (For Children products only—CCPSA) • Flammability of textile products US regulatory tests if applicable, at additional costs Sharp Points / Edges (children’s product) • • • • • • • • Small Parts (children’s product) CA Prop 65 (Mandatory in state California) Lead Content of Paints or Similar Surface Coating (children’s product) Lead Content of Accessible Component (children’s product) Toxics in Packaging Flammability 16 CFR 1610 Flammability of Vinyl Plastic Film 16 CFR1611 Tracking label for children’s products. Required Sample size: 4 Belts per style In a set of same fabrication only one item will be tested with the full test package, in the darkest colorway. Additional colorway will be tested under additional test package Accessories -Wallet and Small leather goods (prices in USD) Wallet and Small Leather goods (HL&A#5) Asia $240.00 Tests included in package • • • • • • • • • • • Colourfastness to Crocking (for shell and lining) Colourfastness to Perspiration for shell Colourfastness to Light for Shell (for light color) Resistance to Corrosion for Metal Components (if applicable) Durability of Hooks and Loops Fastener (if applicable) Flexing Resistance for Shell Abrasion Resistance for Shell Tensile Strength for Shell Seam Strength (for functional) Attachment Strength Labeling Review 100 | P a g e US regulatory tests if applicable, at additional costs • • • • Lead Content of Paints or Similar Surface Coating Toxic Elements in Packaging Components CA Prop 65 (mandatory in state California) Formaldehyde Emissions (California, USA, Document Review) Additional test if applicable and requested with additional testing cost • • • Children’s Product review. Includes; Small Parts, Sharp Points, Sharp Edges Lead in Coating (children’s product) Colourfastness to Perspiration Sample size: • • Finished product: 4 pieces, plus a swatch of Shell fabric or material- 4×A4, and a swatch of Lining fabric or material: 1×A4 For coatings 0.5 g of coating colour Accessories- Umbrella prices in USD) Umbrella (HL & A # 06) Asia Turkey USA Canada EU $245.00 $00.00 $00.00 $00.00 $00.00 Testing conducted as part of testing package • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Fibre Content Textile Flammability Sharp Points / Edges Workmanship Defects Attachment Strength (Handle) Operability Spring Force At Handle Attachment Strength (Wire Tip) Seam Strength Seam Slippage Colorfastness to Crocking Water Repellency Water Resistance Corrosion Resistance (metal component) Additional US regulatory test with additional testing cost • • • • • • • Sharp Points / Edges (children’s product) Small Parts (children’s product) Lead in Coating (children’s product) Lead Content of Accessible Component (children’s product) Flammability of Solids (children’s product) CA Prop 65 (mandatory in state California) Formaldehyde Emissions (California) (Document Review) 101 | P a g e Required Sample size: 3 samples plus 1 yard x full width of fabric for basic package test. 0.5 g per packaging material or valid document 0.5 g of coating Accessories-Clutches, Small purses, Cosmetic bags and Makeup cases Asia (prices in USD) Clutches, Small purses, Cosmetic Bags and Make-up cases (HL & A # 07) $216.00 Testing conducted as part of testing package • Overall Length (cm.)x width(cm)x Height(cm) • Number of Compartmens (Main, Interior, External, & other features) • Flammability (SOR/2011-22) • Material Defect • Resistance To Corrosion (Metal Components) • Resistance To Flexing: (Vinyl) • Handle / Strap Strength • Fabric/Material Tensile strength • Seam strength • Tear strength • Attachment Strength • Snapping / Unsnapping Force • Button Attachment Strength • Zipper Performance testing, Operability, Crosswise strength, Puller attachment strength. • Colorfastness to Light • Colorfastness to Crocking • Labeling review Additional tests if applicable with additional costs • • • • • Total Lead in paint or similar surface coating for children’s products (＜14 yrs) Flammability Sharp Points / Sharp Edges Small Parts Colourfastness to Perspiration US regulatory test with additional testing cost • • • • • • CA Prop 65 (Mandatory in state California) Lead in Coating Lead Content of Accessible Component (children’s product) Toxics in Packaging Flammability of Solids (children’s product) Sharp Points /Small parts / Edges (children’s product) 102 | P a g e Accessories -Jewelry (prices in USD) Jewelry (jewelry # 04) Asia $110.00 Testing conducted /as part of testing package • Claim Verifications • Use Labeling • Instructions • Workmanship • Defects • Sharp Points / Edges • Dimensions (L x W x H) • Weight • Functionality • Tensile Strength • Clasp Tensile Strength • Impact Resistance • Labeling review Additional test if applicable with additional testing cost • Upholstered and Stuffed Articles Label • Stretch & Recovery (Elastic items only) • Flammability of Textile Fibre • Corrosion Resistance (Metal components) • Colorfastness to Crocking (textile & leather) • Colorfastness to Perspiration (textile & leather) • Nickel Release (products with hypo allergenic claims) • Band Tensile Strength (silicone rubber type products) US regulatory test with additional testing cost • Jewelry Label Claims (If applicable) • Leather Good Labeling (if applicable) • Lead Content in Jewelry (Mandatory in state California) • CA Prop 65 (mandatory in state California) • Formaldehyde Emissions (California) (Document Review) Sample size: 4 samples for basic package test. Sample to be submitted with final packaging and instruction manual. 103 | P a g e Additional Tests and Individual Test Price List The below list includes test for specialty performance claims and general performance. (prices in USD) USA, Canada, EU Asia, India, Turkey, Mexico and the Dominican Republic J03 (Including Flammability test 16 CFR 1610 for the 1st fabric $210 $95 Drawstring/Ties review $64 $33 Flammability of Vinyl Film $75 $65 Cost: On quote Cost: On quote Additional Colorway Colorfastness Testing With Original Submit Additional Colourway Colourfastness Testing as a Separate Submit $50.00 $35.00 $71.00 $57.0 Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water (swim) $45.00 $20.00 Colorfastness to Sea Water (swim) $45.00 $14.00 Colorfastness to Perspiration $45.00 $13.00 Colorfastness to light $50.00 $20.00 Color Block Polyester and Blends. $45.00 $17.00 a) colorfastness to water (contrast $32.00 $11.00 b) colorfastness to washing $45.00 $17.00 Colorfastness to burnt gas fumes (bras): whites and pastels only $60.00 $40.00 Fiber Content – microscopic such as wool/cashmere $233.00 ($86.00 for each additional) $71.00 Single Fiber CA Prop 65: Applicable Section from Intertek Protocol for CA Prop. 65 a) dye transfer in storage Color Block Styles $143.00 (2 wool fibers) $100.00 (2 natural cellulosic blends) 104 | P a g e (prices in USD) USA, Canada, EU Asia, India, Turkey, Mexico and the Dominican Republic Chemical Identification 3rd and subsequent fibers/fiber $55.00 $22.00 Flammability (USA) non-exempt fabric $75.00 $30.00 Flammability Canada all apparel wearing textiles $75.00 $38.00 Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Tight Fitting) $94.00 $38.00 Children’s Sleepwear Flammability (Other than tight fitting sleepwear) - After 1 Wash $109.00 $57.00 Fabric weight (g/m2, oz/yd2 or Total weight of lb/doz) $35.00 $11.00 Pilling (random tumble) $59.00 $15.00 Seams Slippage $47.00 $36.00 Abrasion Resistance Martindales (ASTM D4966-98) $71.00 $57.00 Pile Retention Taber (ASTM D4685) $60.00 $19.00 Accelerator (AATCC 93) $59.00 $12.00 Stretch & Recovery ASTM D3107 (Wovens) / ASTM D2594 (Knits) /STM D4964 (Knit Swim & Active Wear, Intimates & Apparel) Durable Press Appearance (AATCC 143) and Surface Appearance (AATCC 124) 3 Washes 5 Washes $75.00 $29.00 $43.00 (fabric/garment) $66.00 (fabric/garment) $19.00 (fabric) $29.00 (garment) $46.00 (fabric) $54.00 (garment) $15.00 $11.00 $ 75.00 $ 90.00 $ 63.00 $ 75.00 Soil Release: Oily Stain (AATCC 130) (original and after 5 washes) $ 65.00 $ 44.00 Oil Repellency (AATCC 118)Original & after 5X Wash $ 112.00 $ 86.00 Stain Resistant/Repellent (AATCC 118 or 193) Original and after 10x Laundering (Required for stain resistant/repellent fabrics including Teflon and nano-care) $ 290.00 $ 100.00 Appearance after washing for Two piece set ( in same color / fabric with no appliqué, embroidery, lining etc) Appearance after laundering on 2nd piece Durability of Flocking a) fabric b) garment 105 | P a g e (prices in USD) USA, Canada, EU Water Repellency – Spray Test (AATCC 22) (original and after 5 washes) Water Repellency – Spray Test (AATCC 22) (original and after 3 washes) Resistance to Corrosion Nickel content of metal (Quantitative) Soluble Heavy Metals Content (Children’s Only) Formaldehyde a) Spot Test b) AATCC 112 c) JIS L 1041 Asia, India, Turkey, Mexico and the Dominican Republic $ 115.00 $ 59.00 $ 50.00 $ 12.00 $ 100.00 $ 225.00 $ 150.00 $ 40.00 $ 130.00 $ 53.00 $ 38.00 $ 119.00 $ 115.00 $ 13.00 $ 41.00 $ 41.00 Children’s Mechanical Safety Review Component Attachment Test for Children’s Garments (6 garments required) HBC004 $ 30.00 $ 100.00 $ 24.00 $ 72.00 Attachment strength (Children’s only) 16 CFR 1500.51-53 (USA) /6 readings Sharp Point Sharp Edge (Children’s only) Total Lead Content a) Applied Surface Coatings (Canada) b) Applied Surfaces Coatings (USA) c) PVC Materials Phthalates (DEHP & DINP) in PVC Materials $ 50.00 $ 20.00 $ 75.00 $ 30.00 $43.00 $43.00 $45.00 $300.00 $43.00 $43.00 $24.00 $147.00 $75.00 $50.00 $60.00 $40.00 Decoration Attachment to Laundering: 5 Launderings of Children’s Garments with Rhinestones (6 garments required) 5 Launderings of Adult Bulk Garments with Rhinestones (3 garments required) (Novelty) Attachment Strength – Novelty Trim & Decoration on Bras Feather and Down Analysis a) Content Analysis b) Fill Power c) Turbidity d) Oxygen Number e) Fat & Oil f) Odor g) Downproofness $55.00 $12.00 $115.00 $50.00 $30.00 $30.00 $75.00 $30.00 $75.00 $108.00 $28.00 $38.00 $28.00 $58.00 $48.00 $48.00 Total Net Fill Weight (Polyester or Down Fill) $50.00 $28.00 Antimicrobial $150.00 $103.00 106 | P a g e (prices in USD) USA, Canada, EU Asia, India, Turkey, Mexico and the Dominican Republic Moisture Management a) absorbency b) Wicking c) Moisture Vapor Transmission $50.00 $60.00 $85.00 $18.00 $24.00 $47.00 Windproof $70.00 $53.00 Anti-static Water Resistant (AATCC 35) $75.00 $125.00 $72.00 $45.00 Waterproof (AATCC 127) $65.00 $29.00 Sock Fit Test [Sock only] (L&T/SAKS) $120.00 $45.00 Abrasion Resistance Socks (ASTM 3886) $150.00 $57.00 Unbreakable Button Claim a) Button centre strength Initial 5 buttons of same type. Each additional set of 5 $55.00 $30.00 $28.00 $19.00 b) Button Impact Strength Initial 10 buttons of same type. $30.00 $55.00 $13.00 $28.00 Each additional set of 5 UV (includes 20 washes & 100 hours of light) $26.00 $950.00 $13.00 $400.00 Resistance to Snagging (swim/exercise only) a) face b) face & back Bonding Strength (includes 5 launderings) $45.00 $60.00 $125.00 $33.00 $41.00 $63.00 $50.00 $35.00 $200.00 $28.00 $18.00 $140.00 $45.00 $18.00 White Fabrics a) phenolic yellowing b) pH Fade Resistance:(Dimensional Change is measured after 3 washes & Shade Change/Staining are evaluated after 3 & 10 washes.) When required, this test is performed in conjunction with Dimensional Change Care label verification (Existing Care Label Review at no additional charge) Retest Minimum Report Charge Rush Service (3 working days) Local Price $50.00 50% surcharge 25% Discount from Local Price $30.00 40% surcharge 107 | P a g e CHAPTER 7 Garment Inspection Criteria 108 | P a g e 109 | P a g e In order to schedule an inspection, the vendor must submit an inspection Request Form to the HBC, L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH nominated inspection agency about 7 to 8 days prior to inspection date. Inspection form must be completed in all respect and submitted along with a copy of the Purchase Order (PO). The inspection process policy is as follows: 1. Only nominated agency or agent will conduct third party pre-shipment inspection for softlines commodities. 2. Vendors are responsible for paying fees associated with the inspections. 3. Inspector will check records for vendors approved social compliance status and passed lab test reports prior to inspection 4. Once the inspection takes place, the inspection agency will produce an Inspection Report and grade the shipment as either 'pass' or 'fail.' If the shipment passes, the inspection agent will issue a Certificate of Inspection. 5. If the grade is 'fail,' the shipment will be rejected. Rejection does not necessarily mean cancellation: a vendor/factory may request a subsequent inspection after taking remedial action to correct the problems identified. 6. For inspections using nominated third party agency, refer to chapter 10 –Contact List of Intertek Inspection services. Inspection Standards The inspection standard used by HBC, L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH is International Sampling and Inspection by Attribute Method ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993. It is the most widely used industry sampling plan and includes sampling sizes and the criteria for accepting or rejecting the shipment Lot Size Sample Size Maximum Number Defective Units Allowed 2.5 151-280 32 2 281-500 50 3 501-1,200 80 5 1,201-3,200 125 7 3,201-10,000 200 10 10,001-35,000 315 14 35,001-150,00 500 21 Acceptable quality level: Acceptable quality level (AQL) defines the number of defective units that result in an inspection either passing or failing. The AQL adopted by HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH is 2.5 for major and minor defects. No distinction will be made between products with one or many defects: each defective product is only counted once. However, zero critical defects will be accepted (Refer to defect classifications on next page.) Sampling Plan: Single Sampling 110 | P a g e The shipment is accepted or rejected on the basis of one sampling and no additional sampling will be allowed. No further inspections will be conducted unless corrective actions have been taken as instructed. Sample size: Normal Inspection Level II Sample size is the number of products in the sampling specified by the sampling plan. Normal Inspection Level II, under ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993, is the sampling plan. Defect classifications A defect is defined as any flaw (major or minor) that is likely to result in customer dissatisfaction, reduce the usability of the item for its intended purposes, make the item less saleable, or is a departure from established standards or specifications of the purchase order. A critical defect is one which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using the product, or a defect that violates legal regulations and the policy is “Zero tolerance” for critical defects. Inspection criteria: The following is the list of defects to which garment inspections will be conducted. These standard terms should be used in all communications. A product found with any of these defects will be classified as “defective.” Defects in workmanship are classified as “major or minor”. Major Defect – renders the garment unacceptable, affecting the saleability, durability or appearance to the point where a customer return is justified. Minor Defect – does not render the garment unacceptable to the point of justifying a customer return. A minor defect does, however, indicate substandard workmanship and highlights area in need of improvement. Product conformity (check against approved Sample and Specification) 1. Overall appearance 2. Size/Capacity/weight 3. Does not satisfactorily complete testing 4. Garment Shape Fabric defects 1. Any holes, broken yarn, drop stitches, broken ends, runs, mis-weaves, mis-draws or mispicks 2. Slubs, knots, snags or pulled yarn 3. Noticeable/significant oil spots, soil or other stains 4. Mis-prints, broken pattern, poor print registration, colour migration, colour out, uneven printing or smear 5. Noticeable dye spots or streaks 6. Shading or dye lot deviation within garment 7. Bowed or biased fabric exceeding requirement 8. Conspicuous pilling, corrugation or roll-up creases 9. Fabric weight more than five (5) per cent below contracted weight 10. Visible float length on Jacquards 111 | P a g e 11. 12. Colored fly; mixed fillings or foreign yarns weaved or knitted into fabric Visible creases or lines resulted from needle lines, permanent press, compactor creases, barre or light/heavy ends Cleanness defects 1. Spots or stains, or those that when removed leave a “ring” or other surface marks 2. Hanging threads or loose thread clusters that are not removed from both the inside and the right side of the garment 3. Mildew or odor within packages 4. Insects or foreign bodies found in packages 5. Failure to air garment adequately prior to packing Laundry/treatment defects 1. Wash, treatment or finishes that do not conform to specification 2. Hand feel either harsh or flimsy, differing from standard 3. Bleached spots, streak marks or uneven treatment 4. Pilling or uneven sand or stone blasting 5. Strong chemical or bleach odor from poor rinses 6. Colour or shade variation resulting from laundry batches 7. Bruises, fraying or raw edges resulting from heavy sand or stone washes Pressing defects 1. Burn or scorch marks 2. Shine marks or glazes on right side of garment 3. Press marks resulting from the use of clamps or other holding devices 4. Un-pressed and poor pressing objectively affecting seam and hanger appeal 5. Front/back creases distinctly uneven in length or improperly placed, deviating from specification Stitching defects 1. Stitch type or construction technique other than specified 2. Stitches per inch differing from specification 3. Insecure ends of stitching, poor back or latch tacked 4. Untidy or poor mending stitch, joins or repairs 5. Skipped stitches or broken or insecure stitch that may ravel 6. Floating stitch resulting from poor tension 7. Run-offs in top-stitching 8. Distortion and excessive cluster of thread locked in stitches 9. Raw edges showing when they should be covered 10. Poor thread match 11. Incorrect thread size or thread type 12. Needle cuts resulting from blunt needles or incorrect needle type/size 13. Needle chew or dog feed abrasion frays 112 | P a g e Seam defects 1. Incorrect seam construction 2. Seam finishes that are not back-tacked or are insecurely tacked 3. Tight thread tension causing thread to break under stress 4. Loose thread tension causing seams to grin 5. Seams those are conspicuously twisted, roped or pleated 6. Excessive puckering 7. Measurements out of tolerance due to stitch margin variation or excessive allowance into seam 8. Stretched seam caused by poor handling 9. Eased seam where uneven lengths are forced into seaming 10. Open seam 11. Raw edges caught outside seam 12. Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching Collar/lapel/cuff setting defects 1. Excessive fullness or twisting between top and under collar 2. Distinctively ill-shaped or non-conformity to specification 3. Uneven or unbalanced right to left collar 4. Uneven length between collar points 5. Poor top-stitching or uneven, crooked, or run-off edge or top stitch 6. Unbalanced or poorly set collar 7. Loose thread, or lint trapped between top and under collar 8. Incompatible interlining 9. Poor fusing, budding or strike through adhesive 10. Misplaced buttons or buttonholes 11. Twisting, or ropy cord, pipe or bind Front/back bodice defects 1. Uneven front opening/placket length 2. Poor front opening closure resulting from thread tension or pulling from facing 3. Fullness between opening and facing 4. Facing hanging from inside of garment 5. Misplaced buttons or buttonholes, or poor alignment of button and buttonholes 6. Misplaced pockets 7. Uneven, or high/low pocket placements 8. Uneven dart length 9. Misplaced dart 10. Poor tapering of dart 11. “Dimpled” dart or insecure or poor end off at dart 12. Uneven waistband height 13. Uneven distribution of gathering or shirring 113 | P a g e Hem defects 1. Uneven hem 2. Ropy or twisted hem 3. Length of lining in excess of shell or otherwise 4. Open hem - raw edges or skipped/broken stitch 5. Tight thread tension that causes thread breakage when stretched 6. Puckered, ‘heavy bite’ or grim stitches on right side of garment Sleeve setting and armhole defects 1. Pleating or poor setting at the crown of sleeve 2. Twisted arm or poor sleeve setting 3. Visible stay stitch along seam of armhole setting 4. Excessive puckering at under-arm and seams 5. Under-arm misaligned with side seam 6. Twisting of lining inside of sleeve 7. Uneven, twisted or poorly stitched hem or sleeve opening 8. Poor setting, twisting, fullness or pulling at facing of sleeve opening Interlinings 1. Strike through – adhesive melts through to face fabric 2. Rippling – corrugation of fabric or fusing 3. Bubbling – areas of unfused interlining/fabric 4. Delaminating – fusing peel away from fabric 5. Incorrect colour Buttonhole defects 1. Incorrect buttonhole size for button 2. Ragged or raw edges caused by blunt blades at buttonhole 3. Misplaced, uneven or poorly spaced buttonholes 4. Poor match or incorrect thread colour 5. Incorrect thread size 6. Skip stitch or poor locking of buttonhole stitches 7. Untrimmed thread ends 8. Poor stitch density 9. Distorted buttonhole or without interlining or strengthener 10. Button/Stud and buttonhole not aligning 11. Uncut Buttonhole/keyhole 12. Button/Stud place upside down Zipper defects 1. Any malfunctioning or sub-standard quality, deviating from specification (e.g. wrong size, coils, elements, or locks and anti-locks, weak stops or retainers or wrong finishes) 2. Poor colour match to body or tape, or differing from approved standard 114 | P a g e 3. 4. 5. Poor setting where part of the component may be caught in slider or stretched, wavy setting or poor closure that may obstructs proper functioning and operability Oxidization or discolored elements Invisible zipper showing due to improper stitching Embellishment 1. Different to Approved Artwork or Sample 2. Crooked or misaligned to Sample over 1cm 3. Shape distortion 4. Missing or Omitted from garment against Spec Component and trim defects 1. Unapproved components or trim added or substituted (bindings, inter-linings, braids, etc.) 2. Missing component or trim from specification (bartacks, zippers, snap fasteners, eyelets, rivets, hook and eyes, Velcro tapes, belt and belt-loops, darts, pockets, etc.) 3. Buttons, components, or trims that are damaged, cracked, chipped, discolored, malfunctioning or do not conform to specification 4. Components or trims insecurely fastened or crooked 5. Misplaced or poor setting of trims and components 6. Exposed drill holes, chalked marks or any other form of marking 7. Poor colour match of trims and components, shade deviation exceeding shade bar or deviating from specification 8. Poorly shaped darts or pockets that are not uniform or deviate from specification 9. Incorrect size or dimension of components or trims Packaging defects 1. Incorrect poly bag material 2. Wrong poly bag size 3. Missing or incorrect poly bag prints or suffocation warming 4. Missing or incorrect number of tapes or seals 5. Missing or incorrect hang tags 6. Missing or incorrect price ticket 7. Missing or incorrect SKU number 8. Missing or incorrect size 9. Incorrect assortment, pre-packs or master pack 10. Incorrect hanger 11. Incorrect, poor or untidy folding method 12. Incorrect carton marks 13. Incorrect carton dimension or weight (under or exceeding specification) 14. Poor or weak packaging or carton material 15. Incorrect or poor carton seal 16. Missing Plastic Bag Warning 115 | P a g e All plastic bags with an opening in excess of 18cm (7”) in diameter must have the following warning in English and French: WARNING: KEEP THIS BAG AWAY FROM BABIES AND CHILDREN. DO NOT USE IN CRIBS, BEDS, CARRIAGES OR PLAYPENS. THE THIN FILM MAY CLING TO NOSE AND MOUTH AND PREVENT BREATHING. THIS IS NOT A TOY ATTENTION : GARDER CE SAC HORS DE LA PORTÉE DES BÉBÉS ET DES ENFANTS. NE PAS LE PLACER DANS UN BERCEAU, UN LIT D’ENFANT, UNE POUSSETTE OU UN PARC. LA MINCE PELLICULE PEUT ADHÉRER AU NEZ ET À LA BOUCHE DE FAÇON À EMPÊCHER LA RESPIRATION. CET ARTICLE N’EST PAS UN JOUET. Incorrect label information 1. Missing or incorrect CA # (The Bay: 00234) RN# (123455) for Lord & Taylor and #92087 for SAKS. 2. Missing or incorrect country of origin 3. Missing stuffed article act label (new material only) for fiber-filled garments. For Lord & Taylor missing Law Label or Down & feather Law Tag Label. 4. Label not in English and French 5. English and French wording in the same font size 6. Incorrect care/wash instruction 7. Misspelled care/wash instruction 8. Missing label or label not legible 9. Missing care label, or fiber content does not add up to 100 per cent Pre-Production Inspection The vendor should ensure that all materials and components are inspected before production starts to verify that their function and appearance meet the requirements. Performing a pre-production inspection will help avoid problems during production. Steps to be completed before Production Before production can begin, the vendor must ensure that the following steps have all been completed: All spec packages with standardized style numbers have been received. The fit sample and spec details have been approved by the Technologist, Global Sourcing. Lab dips have been approved. Strike-offs and embroidery have been approved. Bulk fabrics have been approved. Notions, trims, and accessories have been approved. Bulk fabric lab tests have been approved by designated testing agency. Any photo/ad samples requested have been sent. 116 | P a g e The pre-production sample has been approved by the Technologist. Labels, hang tags, and hangers are ready to be ordered. During-process Inspection The factory should have a during-process (DUPRO) inspection system in place that will identify and correct deficiencies prior to the completion of manufacturing. The DUPRO inspection is to be conducted during the early stages of production when the final product is first coming off the production line. Its purpose is both to ensure conformance to Purchase Order requirements and to confirm that any deficiencies noted in the pre-production inspection have been corrected. All defects or deviations from the contracted terms should then be corrected. HBC, L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH recommend that facilities adopt an acceptable quality level (AQL) of 2.5 for DUPRO inspections. AQL defines the number of defective units that result in an inspection either passing or failing, and a level of 2.5 would correspond to the following standard: The vendor should not make any distinction between major and minor defects, but no critical defects (defects which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using the product as well as defects that violate legal regulations) are acceptable. There is a zero tolerance policy toward critical defects Pre-shipment Inspection Pre-shipment inspection (PSI) is employed to ensure that products are not shipped unless all quality requirements have been met. PSI usually takes place at the time of packing (when at least 100 per cent of the shipment is produced and 80 per cent is packed) in accordance with International Sampling and Inspection by Attribute Method ANSI/ASQC Z1.4-1993 (formerly known as MIL-STD-105E). The inspected units, selected at random, will be closely examined by the nominated inspection agency that will inspect against specifications and control samples, in respect to the following criteria: Aesthetic Appearance Colours/Printing Workmanship Labeling Functional Aspects Safety Aspects Specifications Inspection by nominated agency and inspection fee For non Li and Fung, HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH direct import purchase orders, the third party nominated agency (ITS) will conduct pre-shipment inspection, vendor will pay the inspection related fees. The nominated third party inspection 117 | P a g e agencies will submit a quote before an inspection. All quotes are based on preferential rates offered to vendors. Inspection fees range from $145 to $220 plus incidentals where applicable. ITS local inspection office can provide a more detailed quote. Contact information can be found at the end of this chapter. China Hong Kong – Inspection agency – Intertek Services (ITS) Zone 1 - US$145 (including travelling) per man day (closer to ITS offices – which covers about 3 hours road transportation. Zone 2 – US$220 (including travelling) per man day (far off locations- more than 3 hours road journey trip from ITS nearest office) only airfare will be charged separately if applicable. Asia - (Excluding China and Hong Kong) – Inspection agency – Intertek Services ( ITS) -US$ 200 per man-day inspection plus travelling. -No travelling cost if factory is within range of 30 km of ITS local office area. -Additional actual travelling cost, if more that 30 km from nearest ITS office and out of pocket expenses for inspectors. North America and Europe Inspection agency – Intertek Services (ITS) US$ 550 per man-day inspection plus travelling (As per instructions to ITS has a target to complete the inspection in one man-day however if an inspection needs more than one man-day depending upon size of the shipment quantities and factory location, ITS will get a pre-approval from HBC or L&T or Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH to extend the inspection. ITS will provide inspection cost quotation to the vendor prior to conducting the inspection.) Inspection Report & Inspection Certificate (IC) When a final inspection is completed the inspection agency will release an Inspection Report. The report will have a pass, fail or pending status. The inspection agency will issue an Inspection Certificate (IC) for a “Pass” report. “Failed” and “Pending” reports are reviewed by the Technical team who will decide on a further action. A decision can be made to cancel, re-inspect and/or accept the order and issue the Inspection certificate(IC) to the vendor. 118 | P a g e Example of Inspection Form 1 2 Appendix J: ITS Inspection Certificate Format INSPECTION CERTIFICATE 3 4 MANUFACTURERS/ : SUPPLIERS NUMBER : DATE : 5 QUANTITY AND DESCRIPTION : OF MERCHANDISE 6 SHIPMENT : INSPECTION : CONCLUSION : 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 A routine inspection (insert: Report Number) has been carried out on the above mentioned goods on the basis of random samples taken out after production and compared against a standard.********** **************************************************************** That the goods inspected comply with the buyer specification ***************************************************************** PREPARED AND CHECKED BY : FOR INTERTEK TESTING SERVICES HK LTD. - LABTEST ____________________________ GENERAL MANAGER INSPECTION DIVISION Routine Inspection of goods by Buyers prior to shipment shall not constitude a waiver of Sellers’ responsibility which continues until the ultimate acceptance of the goods by the oversea consignees or their clients and it is agreed that no time limit is set for the presentation of claims, if any, to Sellers. 119 | P a g e CHAPTER 8 Mechanically Attached Fasteners 120 | P a g e 121 | P a g e This section outlines required procedures and safety standards for Hudson’s Bay Company , Lord & Taylor ,L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH softlines vendors working with mechanically attached fasteners. These procedures and standards cover all garments for all genders, and apply to all vendors and recommended suppliers. Since every contingency or eventuality cannot be anticipated, and certain local circumstances or conditions may exist of which we have no knowledge, vendors should take appropriate additional precautions in their own internal controls and policies. All defects in the attachment of mechanical fasteners are classified as critical (Pre-shipment Inspection for more information), and when detected automatically result in the rejection of the shipment in which they are found. There is a “Zero tolerance” policy for critical defects, and will therefore not tolerate any deviation from the standards and guidelines outlined in this section. Products that do not meet the requirements set out in this section will not receive approval to ship, and we will only deal with vendors who are in full compliance and who can demonstrate that control systems are in place and operational. Recommended Suppliers The following is a list of recommended suppliers of snap fasteners, buttons, rivets, eyelets, and any other mechanically attached hardware components. Vendors may only use fasteners from one of these suppliers. • YKK Group (www.ykk.com) and its subsidiaries Universal Fasteners(USA, www.ykk-ufi.com), Stocko Fasteners (Germany, www.stocko-ykk.de), and Newmax (Japan, www.ykk.co.jp), where officially represented. • Scovill Fasteners (www.scovill.com) and its officially appointed agencies worldwide, including Acotex Far East (www.acotex.com). • Prym (www.prym.com/en/html/c01.asp), and its subsidiaries, including Schaeffer, where officially represented. Snap requirements All snaps (including stud, post, socket, and cap) must be metal. However, plastic caps for snaps are allowed as long as they meet the strength requirements, as are plastic snap tapes from the recommended suppliers. Furthermore, it is mandated that all infant and children's wear must be passed through a conveyor style metal detector prior to shipment to permit detection of broken needle chips, pins, staples, and other ferromagnetic objects. All fasteners and eyelets on infant and children's wear must therefore be non-ferrous to allow garments containing them to pass through without causing an alarm. Please refer to Needle Control and Metal Detection section, for more information. 122 | P a g e Pull testing The vendor must monitor the snap attachment strength of the components being applied to children's garments a minimum of twice per eight-hour shift - once in the morning and once in the afternoon. The vendor must document all results The snap attachment strength should be tested on mock garments, with fasteners attached as per the production method. A minimum of eight (8) attachment (male and female) strength measurements must be taken during each inspection. The measurements should be averaged like for pinch setting testing. If the pull test records a failure, trained personnel must stop production on the attachment machine in question immediately, and isolate all bundles manufactured on that machine since the last recorded pull test. Factory personnel should recheck all procedures. If the machine is faulty and the problem cannot be corrected internally, the recommended supplier's technician must be contacted to evaluate the problem. The supplier's technician will recommend a plan of corrective action. Trouble-shooting will be case-by-case, and will depend on the cause of the pull test failure. After the recommended supplier's technician has checked and verified all aspects of the machine, the vendor must take the SPS again and conduct another pull test. Prior to resuming production, 100 per cent of the garments in the isolated bundles must be evaluated for the problem identified by the supplier's technician. Required bulk garment testing All styles for children's wear must be tested for safety. The vendor is responsible for submitting six (6) garments per style chosen randomly from bulk production to the approved laboratory for independent testing and verification that they meet safety specifications. All fasteners (both male and female studs, where applicable) on the six (6) garments submitted will be tested regardless of how many are contained on each garment. The HBC-004 Test Method will be used to determine the attachment strength of mechanically attached hardware components Hardware components are required to withstand the following force applied over five (5) seconds and then maintained for 15 seconds: Ring prong snaps, eyelets, and tack rivets: 15.0 lbs. minimum 123 | P a g e Ring prong snap fasteners, and tack rivets Factories attaching fasteners to infant's and children's wear are required to have the following onsite testing equipment. A Chatillon, Imada, or SafQ snap tester 124 | P a g e 125 | P a g e CHAPTER 9 Needle Control and Metal Detection 126 | P a g e 127 | P a g e HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH require that vendors manufacture all garments in a controlled environment and thoroughly check them to ensure that they are 100 per cent safe. This section sets out mandated requirements involving needle control and metal detection, but it remains the responsibility of each Vendor to ensure that only safe product reaches the stores. HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH will deal only with vendors who are in full compliance with the requirements set out in this section and who can demonstrate that control systems are in place and operational, and will cease trading with vendors who cannot establish through internal records that proper care and attention is being taken. Key points • A needle control system is mandatory for machine needles, hand-stitched work, and tagging gun needles • A control system is also necessary for sharp tools. • All children’s garments must be passed through a conveyer-style metal detector. Factory should have the following forms in place to monitor a needle control policy. Please see example of a form for Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles. Required Forms • Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles • Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product • Needle Control Record for Hand-stitched Work • Needle Control Record for Tagging Gun Needles • Sharp Tools Control Record • Metal Detection Record • Metal Detector Testing Record Needle control A needle control system must be in place for all hand and machine-sewing operations, including offline embroidery rooms and other stand-alone sewing areas (e.g., sample rooms) and tagging (Kimble) gun needles.. Only one supervisor or mechanic in each sewing line should be given responsibility for needle control. This person will hereafter be called 'the needle supervisor.' Sewing machine operators must not be allowed to possess spare needles. All needles other than those fitted in machines are to be kept in a locked needle cupboard or drawer with only the needle supervisor having access. All used needles must be replaced and collected by the needle supervisor and placed in a sealed container for disposal. If a needle breaks, the sewing Machine operator must summon the needle supervisor. The supervisor must then ensure that the sewing machine operator has all the pieces of the broken needle in his or her possession. 128 | P a g e The needle supervisor must affix all pieces of the broken needle to the Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles with clear adhesive tape and record the incident before issuing a replacement. (with the broken pieces below) must be kept in the locked cupboard or drawer where the needles are kept. This will ensure that broken pieces are not lost and will protect the integrity of the records. If all the pieces of a needle cannot be accounted for, the entire product in the area of the machine that suffered the broken needle must be removed to a separate area for examination. Here a handheld metal detector would be invaluable for determining the location of the missing piece or pieces. If the missing needle piece or pieces cannot be found, all products at the location where the breakage occurred must be destroyed. This must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product and cross-referenced in the Needle Control Record for Sewing Machine Needles). Record should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the ex-factory shipping date, since they may be needed in the case of an investigation. The needle supervisor must keep these records in his or her office, or lock them in a secure drawer or cupboard. The factory must keep all records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log must be available upon request. Sharp tools (e.g. knives and scissors) Only one supervisor should be given responsibility for managing sharp tools. All sharp tools must be kept in a locked cupboard or drawer which only the supervisor can access. The supervisor must record the total number of sharp tools on line, all of which must be tied to work benches. Workers must request new blades and/or sharp tools from the supervisor. If a sharp tool breaks, the worker must summon the supervisor. The supervisor must then ensure that the worker has all the pieces of the broken tool in his or her possession. The supervisor must affix all pieces of the broken tool to the Sharp Tools Control Record (similar to Needle control form with clear adhesive tape and record the incident before issuing a replacement. Form with the broken pieces attached, must be kept in the locked cupboard or drawer where the needles are kept. This will ensure that broken pieces are not lost and will protect the integrity of the records. If all the pieces of a sharp tool cannot be accounted for, the entire product in the area where the tool was being operated must be removed to a separate area for examination. Here a hand-held metal detector would be invaluable for determining the location of the missing piece or pieces. If the missing tool piece or pieces cannot be found, all products at the location where the breakage occurred must be destroyed. This must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product and cross-referenced in the Sharp Tools Control Record. Record should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the ex-factory shipping date, since they may be needed in the case of an investigation. The supervisor must keep these records in his or her office, or lock them in a secure drawer or cupboard. 129 | P a g e The factory must keep all records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log must be available upon request from HBC or Lord & Taylor or L&T,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH . Metal detection It is required that all apparel and products for infants, toddlers, and children (including all other soft textile items such as stuffed toys or dolls, bedding, blankets, etc.) be passed through metal detection equipment. For adult apparel, vendors are exempt from performing the following detection procedure; however, vendors must conduct their own internal quality checks on all products. To allow the metal detection equipment to function, all snaps and other metal components used in products for children must be non-ferrous and nickel free. The detection process must be conducted when goods are completed and ready for packing. The goods may pass through the detecting machine either in or out of polythene bags and then must be packed or put into cartons immediately. The detection equipment must be located in a confined area that is effectively metal free. The machine must rest on a level surface and be calibrated and regularly serviced in accordance with the maker's manual. The operation of the equipment should be restricted to a limited number of fully trained, responsible employees. When the detector registers an alarm, an entry should be made in the Metal Detection Record. The supervisor should attach any metal pieces found to Form with clear, sticky tape. The product should then be passed through the detector once more to ensure that all traces have been removed. If a product registers an alarm and no metal can be found, then the product must be destroyed, since a needle part or metal component may be concealed in a seam and may surface later. Any destruction of product must be recorded in the Record of Destroyed Contaminated Product (Form 12) and cross referenced with the Metal Detection Record. During the course of a working day, the metal detector must be regularly tested in accordance with the maker's instructions to ensure it is working properly; the results of these tests must be kept in the Metal Detector Testing Record. Testing usually involves passing two 1.2 mm ferrous cards through the machine separately. The first card should lie flat on the conveyor while the second should sit on a small nonmetallic block, to ensure that the machine is detecting at a range of heights from the conveyor. The alarm should sound in both instances. If the alarm fails to sound, the supervisor should be called to reset the sensitivity level. If the supervisor cannot adjust the machine to register an alarm, no further product may be processed until a trained engineer repairs the machine. Forms should be kept for a period of two (2) years from the ex-factory shipping date, since they may be case of an investigation. The factory must keep all records in a log dated sequentially (with no missing pages), and the log must be available upon request from HBC, L&T , Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH . 130 | P a g e 131 | P a g e CHAPTER 10 Contact Information 132 | P a g e 133 | P a g e Key Contacts –HBC, L&T, Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH Hudson’s Bay Company Lord & Taylor and SAKS LLC 8925 Torbram Road Brampton Ontario L6T 4G1 Phone 905.792.4400 Fax905.595.7250 www.hbc.com 424 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10018 Phone 212.391.5356 Fax212.382.7366 www.lordandtaylor.com Mr. David Miller Senior Vice President of Global Sourcing 424 Fifth Avenue New York, NY 10018 Tel : + 1 212 382 6191 Fax : +1 212 382 7366 e-mail: [email protected] Ms.Maureen Metzinger Sr. Manager of Logistic and Import Tel : +1 212 391 3560 Fax : +1 212 382 7366 e-mail: [email protected] Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5th 21 Penn Plaza 362 Ninth Avenue, 17th Floor New York, NY 10001 www.saks.com Ms. Amy O’Shea Vice President ,Sourcing Production and QA-Saks Brands Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH 362 Ninth Avenue, 16th Floor New York, NY 10001 Tel : + 1 212 549 1380 Fax : +1 212 320 4702 e-mail: [email protected] Ms. Helene Guinan Director HBC Imports Payable and Customs accounting Tel : +1 416 216 7544 Fax : +1 416 861 6349 e-mail: [email protected] Mr. Neeraj Gupta Director, Technical Design and Quality Assurance Tel: +1 905 792 4749 Fax:: +1 905 595 7250 e-mail: [email protected] Ms. Jihea Pu Director, Softlines Technical Design Tel: +1 212 391 3428 Fax:: +1 212 382 7366 e-mail: [email protected] Ms. Julie Yan Director, Social Compliance Tel: +1 905 792 4679 Fax : +1 905 595 7250 e-mail: [email protected] Ms. Barb Pauk Sr. Manager, Packaging and Production Tel: +1 905 792 5250 Fax:: +1 905 595 7250 e-mail: [email protected] 134 | P a g e GLOBAL CONTACT: Arjun Parmar Intertek Consumer Goods North America 6225 Kenway Dr. Mississauga, Ontario, Canada L5T 2L3 Tel: 1 905 678 4924 Cell: 1 647 292 8718 Fax: 1 905 678 7131 Email: [email protected] Seemanta Mitra Intertek Consumer Goods North America 1 Gateway center, Suite 1030 Newark, NJ 07102 Phone: (732) 394-5367 Email: [email protected] FAR EAST: Arthur Lai Intertek Consumer Goods Hong Kong Ltd 1/F Garment Ctr, 576 Castle Peak Road, Kln, Hong Kong Office Tel : 852 21738208 Fax : 852 3403 2660 e-mail : [email protected] Mobile: 852 61105558 HONG KONG Intertek Testing Services Hong Kong Ltd. 2/F Garment Centre, 576 Castle Peak Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong Testing Main Contact Backup Contact Textile/ Garment/ Linens/ Footwear/ Handbags & Luggage For Test application and job status Account Manager: Ms Canny Yeung Tel: 852 21738309 Email: [email protected] Mr Arthur Lai Tel: 852 2173 8208 Mobile: 852 61105558 Email: [email protected] Mr Alex Lee Tel: 852 2173 8387 Email: [email protected] Ms Stephanie Wong Tel: 852 2173 8306 Email: [email protected] Shanghai Intertek Testing Services Ltd, Shanghai Textile, Garment, Home textile testing 135 | P a g e 3/F, No. 2 Building, Shanghai Comalong Industrial Park, 889 Yishan Road, Puxi, Shanghai, 200233, China Testing Main Contact Backup Contact Textile/ For Test application and job status Account Manager: Garment/ Ms. Fiona Mou Ms. Rebecca Yue Home Textile Tel: 86 21 6091-7043 Tel: 86 21 6091-7080 Fax: 86 21 6485-0559 Fax: 86 21 6485-0559 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Inspection Ms. Linda Sun Ms. Tina Liu (North&East Tel: 86 21 6495-6108*5204 Tel: 86 21 6181-5742 China) Fax: 86 21 6495-0635/34 Fax: 86 21 6181-5394 E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] Shenzhen Intertek Testing Services Shen Zhen Ltd.-Inspection 5/F, M-Space, Building A, Nanhai Avenue South Shekou, Nanshan District, Shenzhen, China, 518067 Inspection Main Contact Backup Contact South China Elaine Ni Ms. Janet Kann Inspection Tel: 86 755 26020684 Tel: 86 755 2602-0878 Fax: 86 755 2602 0811 Fax: 86 755 2602-0811 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] CSR Abby Feng Angel Hu Tel: 86-769-23133411 Tel: 86 755 2602-0846 e-fax: 86-755-26020742-3411 Fax: 86 755 2602-0899 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Taiwan Intertek Testing Services Taiwan Ltd. No. 423, Ruiguang Rd., Neihu District, Taipei City 114, Taiwan Toys & Hardline testing, Inspection: 8/F and E&E testing: 5/F Testing Main Contact Backup Contact Textile/ Ms Angel Yu Account Manager Garment/ Mr. Angus Tsai Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.608 Linens Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401 Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.611 Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Ms Miranda Chang Ms Candy Lin Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.637 Tel: 886-2-6602-2888 ext.635 Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401 Fax: 886-2-6602-2400/2401 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Bangladesh ITS Labtest Bangladesh Ltd. T. K. Bhaban (5th and 6th floor), 13 Kawran Bazar C/A, Dhaka 1215, Bangladesh. Testing Main Contact Backup Contact Textile/ Ms. Kaniz Fatema Account Manager Garment/ Home Group Leader Mr. Afzal Hussain Textile Mobile: +8801714143625 Tel : +880 2 Tel: 88 02 8156226-28 ext 401 815 6226-28, Ext - 422 Fax: 88 02 9125866 136 | P a g e Inspection Fax : +880 2 912 5866 E-mail: [email protected] Ms. Sharmin Bhuyian Tel : + 8802 815 6226 ~ 8 ( Ext - 601) Fax : + 8802 912 5866 Email : [email protected] Email: [email protected] Mr. Mamun Zaman Tel: 88 02 8156226-28 ext 101 Fax: 88 02 9125866 Email: [email protected] India - Gurgaon Intertek Testing Services India Private Ltd. 290,Udyog Vihar,Phase II,Gurgaon,Haryana – 122 016,India Testing Main Contact Backup Contact Textile/ Mr. Manish Nangia Account Manager: Mr. Umesh Kumar Garment/ Home T: 91 124 4503413 T: 91 124 4503437 Textile F: 91 124 4303592 F: 91 124 4303592 E: [email protected] E: [email protected] Laboratory Manager : Govind Kumar Jha T : 91 124 4503426 F : 91 124 4303592 E : [email protected] Inspection / Mr. Satish Gupta / Selvakumaran L S Mr. Arvind Patil SCA Tel: 0091-124-4503444/5/6,Ext# 3446 Tel: 0091-124-4503444/5/6, Ext# 3444 Fax: 0091-124-4303564 Fax: 0091-124-4303564 Email: [email protected], Email: [email protected] [email protected] 137 | P a g e APPENDIX A Forms 138 | P a g e 139 | P a g e Test Request Form 140 | P a g e Test Request Form continued 141 | P a g e Fabric Submit Information Sheet 142 | P a g e Lab Dip /Strike-off /Embroidery/Fabric Approval Form Visual color matching by using a light box: HBC requires that matching must be conducted with at least three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no visible shade difference between all three light sources. The Product Development Manager will approve vendor’s submission for lab dips using the above three light sources. Visual color matching by using a light box: HBC requires that matching must be conducted with at least three light sources, D65, CWF (Cool white florescent light) and incandescent “A” and there should be no visible shade difference between all three light sources. The Product Development Manager will approve vendor’s submission for lab dips using the above three light sources. Spectrophotometer readings: ____________________________________________________ 143 | P a g e APPENDIX B List of Apparel Testing Protocols 144 | P a g e 145 | P a g e List of Signature and Olympic Apparel & Accessories Testing Protocols Item Woven Separates-Linen and Linen Blends Test Protocol # A-01 A-02 A-03 A-04 A-05 A-06 A-07 Woven Separates-Fancy decorated (bead, sequins, gel) Woven Lining Fabric all fibers Fancy Woven Separates-Sateen, Voile, Georgette, etc Woven Dress Shirts all fibers Woven Casual Shirts Cotton and Blends except Corduroy Woven Corduroy Shirts Woven Casual Bottoms all fiber except Corduroy & Denim Corduroy Bottoms and Overalls, Coveralls- Unlined Knitted Bottoms, Overalls, Jumpsuits, Rompers all fibers Woven Denim Garments Unlined, Cotton and Stretch Cotton Woven Non-Denim Shortalls, Overalls, Coveralls, Crawlers Knitted Velour Fleece garments, Cotton or Cotton blends Knitted Velour Fleece garments, Synthetic or blend Sweater-Basic Knit Cotton and Blends Sweater-Delicate stitch, basic Intarsia in Cotton Sweater-Hand Knit delicate stitch Intarsia in Cotton Sweater-Hand Knit lace crochet, Fancy decor in Cotton Sweater-Delicate stitch basic intarsia with Embroidery Acrylic and Acrylic blend Basic Knits Acrylic and Acrylic Blend delicate stitch, Embroidery Acrylic Blends, delicate stitch, with fancy embellish Wool and Wool Blends, Shetland, Lambs wool, Merino Wool and Blends, Delicate, hand intarsia, embroidered Boiled, Brushed or delicate stitch Wools Basic Sweaters Novelty Yarn Blends Delicate Stitch or Fiber Blends in Novelty Yarns Basic Sweater Silk and Silk blends Delicate Stitch, Hand Intarsia, fancy decorated on Silk and blends Woven Blazers-Lined, Corduroy, Velveteen and Velvet Woven Lightweight Jackets and Coats unlined Woven Corduroy Jackets, Unlined Woven Washable Jackets and Coats, all weaves ALL-WEATHER OUTERWEAR – WOVEN and FILLED Knitted Accessories-Acrylic, Cotton, Nylon, Polyester Knitted Accessories-Wool and Wool Blends Wool Felt & Fancy Headwear and Accessories Hats (Woven & Straw) Socks, Cotton and Cotton Blends A-08 A-09 A-10 B-01 B-02 B-03 C-01 C-02 C-03 D-01 D-02 D-03 D-04 E-01-A E-01-B E-01-C E-01-D E-01-E E-02-A E-02-B E-02-C E-03-A E-03-B E-03-C E-04-A E-04-B E-05-A E-05-B F-01 F-02 F-03 F-04-A F-05 F-06 F-07-A F-07-B F-07-C F-08-A Woven Separates-Cotton, Linen, Nylon, Polyester and Blends Woven Separates-Silk, Silk blend, Wool and Wool Blends Woven Separates-Sandwashed & Washable Silk, or Rayon Knit Dress and Jackets all Fibers Knit Top and T-Shirts all fibers except Linen Knit Top and T-Shirts-Linen and Linen Blends 146 | P a g e List of Signature and Olympic Apparel & Accessories Testing Protocols cont’d Item Test Protocol # Socks, Acrylic, Polyester and Blends Tights, Basic Stitch in Cotton-Nylon, Cotton-elastomeric Tights, Delicate Stitch, Cotton-Nylon, Cotton-elastomeric F-08-B F-09-A F-09-B Tights, Basic Stitch in Acrylic and Acrylic Blends Tights, Delicate Construction for Acrylic and Acrylic Blends Tights, Delicate Fiber Content and Construction Wool and Wool Blends Knit or Woven Swimwear and Exercise Leotards Knit or Woven Briefs, Panties, Undershirts, and Camisoles Woven Nightgowns Pyjamas & Robes in Cotton and Blends & Brushed Woven Nightgowns Pyjamas & Robes in Synthetics and Blends & Brushed Knit Nightgowns, Pyjamas & Robes all fibers and Brushed Woven Nightwear, Pyjamas, Robes, Daywear 100% Silk Bras LEATHER GARMENTS LIGHTWEIGHT JACKETS, PVC OR PVC OR PU COATED OR LAMINATED FABRICS ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC or GARMENTS Children's Addendum Additional testing requirements for kids item for L&T/SAKS (USA) NON-RECOMMENDED Zipper requirement Additional testing requirements for Adult items for L&T/SAKS (USA) F-09-C F-09-D F-09-E G-01 G-02 G-03 G-04 G-05 G-06 G-07 H-01 H-02 J-01 J-02 J-03 J-04 J-05 147 | P a g e List of Apparel & Apparel Accessories Testing Protocols Item Woven Tops Woven Bottoms Knit Bottoms Knit Tops Woven Intimates Knit Intimates Woven Outerwear Woven Suits Slippers & Indoor Shoes Kids Woven Garment Kids Knit Garments Hat and Caps Accessories (Ties, Knit/Woven Scarves, Gloves) and Socks Leather & Suede Items Knit Sweaters Cashmere Items Additional requirements for Kids items in US market ADDITIONAL REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC or GARMENTS Children’s Addendum Additional requirements for kids items for Canada Additional requirements for adults items for Canada Buttons, Zipper and Trims testing Handbag, Backpack, Totes, Duffle Bags (HL&A #1) Belts (HL&A #3) Wallets & Small Leather Goods (HL&A # 5) Umbrella (HL&A # 6) Clutch, Evening Bag, Cosmetic bag & Make-up case (HL&A#7) Jewelry (Adult) Test Protocol # LT-01 LT-02 LT-03 LT-04 LT-05 LT-06 LT-07 LT-08 LT-09 LT-10 LT-11 LT-12 LT-13 LT-14 LT-16 LT-17 LT-19 HBC- J01 HBC-J02 HBC-K01 HBC-K02 Refer to HBC protocols for Trims Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #1 Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #3 Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #5 Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #6 Handbag, Luggage & Accessories #7 Refer to HBC protocol for Jewelry #4 148 | P a g e 149 | P a g e APPENDIX C Reference Materials 150 | P a g e 151 | P a g e Country of Origin Made in Bangladesh Fabriqué au Bangladesh Made in Belgium Fabriqué en Belgique Made in Made in Brazil Canada Fabriqué au Fabriqué au Brésil Canada Made in China Fabriqué en Chine Made in Colombia Fabriqué en Colombie Made in Cambodia Fabriqué au Cambodge Made in Korea Fabriqué en Corée Made in Costa Rica Fabriqué au Costa Rica Made in Czech Republic Fabriqué en République tchèque Made in Dominican Republic Fabriqué en République dominicaine Made in El Salvador Fabriqué au Salvador Made in England Fabriqué en Angleterre Made in Germany Fabriqué en Allemagne Made in Guatemala Fabriqué au Guatemala Made in Haiti Fabriqué en Haïti Made in Honduras Fabriqué au Honduras Made in Hong Kong Made in Made in India Indonesia Fabriqué en Fabriqué en Inde Indonésie Made in Israel Fabriqué en Israël Made in Italy Fabriqué en Italie Made in Japan Fabriqué au Japon Made in Malaysia Fabriqué en Malaisie Made in Mexico Fabriqué au Mexique Made in Nicaragua Fabriqué au Nicaragua Made in Pakistan Fabriqué au Pakistan Made in Peru Fabriqué au Pérou Made in Philippines Made in Portugal Fabriqué au Portugal Made in Russia Fabriqué en Russie Made in Singapore Made in Made in Fabriqué à Fabriqué aux Hong Kong Philippines Fabriqué à Singapour Slovakia Fabriqué en Slovaquie Spain Fabriqué en Espagne Made in Sri Lanka Fabriqué au Sri Lanka Made in Switzerland Fabriqué en Suisse Made in Taiwan Fabriqué à Taïwan Made in Thailand Fabriqué en Thaïlande Made in Turkey Fabriqué en Turquie Made in United States Fabriqué aux États-Unis Made in USA Fabriqué aux É.-U. Made in Vietnam Fabriqué au Vietnam 152 | P a g e Tracking Code for Kids Items – HBC,L&T ,Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH Products 1) First 5 digits will reference the manufacturing factory. (This can be 3 initial letters from first word and one letter each from subsequent word. For example: NINGBO SEDNO GARMENT can be NINSG) 2) Next 2 digits will be the ISO code of the country. ( Please refer to below list) 3) Next 6 digits for the production date of the product (021011) would be Feb.10, 2011. (This date should be related to production batch time frame and provided by vendor. The purpose is for vendor to trace back the production batch. It can be production start date) 4) Next digits (up to four digits) are the batch or lot run number information. This is required as per the guide lines from US consumer product safety improvement act (CPSIA). For textile products with wash care label, the tracking code can be listed on the care label below the HBC/L&T/Saks Fifth Avenue and Saks Fifth Avenue OFF 5TH , CA/RN numbers. For any other products it can be listed on the product or on the packaging. Please see below ISO code list for some countries. Name of the country BANGLADESH CAMBODIA CANADA CHINA HONGKONG INDIAPAKISTAN Taiwan Thailand VIETNAM USA Code BD KH CA CN HK IN PK TW TH VN US Detailed list of ISO country code can be obtained from following link. http://www.iso.org/iso/country_names_and_code_elements 153 | P a g e 154 | P a g e
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