FASH 15 textiles
yarn classification
yarns
contribute significantly to fabric and product
performance
selection affects the fabric’s hand, appearance, drape,
durability, comfort & many other areas of performance
fiber length
spun yarn—composed of short-staple fibers that are
twisted or otherwise bonded together; fuzzy yarn with
protruding ends
filament yarn—composed of long fibers grouped
together or slightly twisted
•smooth filament yarns—straight, almost parallel
fibers
•textured-bulk-filament yarns—uniformly bulky
yarn twist
twist—
•spiral arrangement of fibers around yarn’s axis
•produced by rotating one end while holding the other
stationary
•binds fibers together & contributes to strength
•Specified by number of turns per unit length—turns
per inch (tpi) or turns per meter (tpm)
direction—
yarn twist
amount of twist—
•low twist—used to maintain integrity within smooth,
multi-filament yarns; 1-2 turns per inch
•napping twist—lofty spun yarns used in filling yarns of
napped fabrics
•average twist—most common for staple fiber yarns;
most durable spun yarns
•hard twist—harsher hand & more turns per inch
•crepe yarns—highest tpi; 40-80; twist & kink when
removed from fabric
yarn size
yarn number—size or fineness
•filament yarns—weight per unit length
•spun yarns—length per unit weight; generally the
finer the yarn, the larger the number
denier system—
•describes yarn size using filament fibers
•weight in grams per 9,000 meters
tex system—
•determines yarn number in the same way for all yarns
•weight in grams per 1,000 meters
yarn regularity
describes the uniformity of the yarn throughout its
length in terms of appearance & structure
simple yarns—
•alike in all its parts
•spun or filament yarn
single yarn—
•one strand
•simplest type
yarn regularity—simple yarns
ply yarn—
made by second twisting operation that combines two
or more singles
cord—
made by third twisting operation which twists ply yarns
together
rope—
heavy thick cord as least 2.5 cm or 1 inch or more in
diameter that is twisted or braided together
yarn regularity—sewing & embroidery thread
sewing thread—
•yarn intended for stitching materials together
•available in broad range of sizes & structures
•often finished with lubricant or wax
•most sewing thread is S twist
embroidery thread—
•yarn intended for stitching designs or patterns on
textile surface
•most often 2-ply, Z twist
yarn regularity—fancy yarns
yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and are
irregular at intervals
•irregularities may be subtle or very obvious
•intervals may be regular or random
•classified according to number of parts
•named for effect that dominates fabric
yarn regularity—fancy yarns
yarn regularity—fancy yarns
•tweed yarn
•slub yarn
•spiral or corkscrew
•ratine yarns
•knot, spot, nub, or knop
•spike or snarl
•loop, curl or boucle yarn
•metallic
•chenille
•braided
•knit
•stitched
yarn regularity—composite yarns
have both staple-fiber & filament fiber components
include:
•covered yarns—central yarn completely covered by fiber or
another yarn
•core-spun yarns—spun sheath of staple fibers around a core
•filament wrapped yarns (wrap-spun)—have staple fiber core,
wrapped or bound by filament fibers
•multi-polymer yarns—produced by pressing staple fibers of
any length or generic class in molten polymer stream
•fasciated yarns—grouping of filament fibers wrapped with
staple fibers
yarn performance & yarn quality
identified and measured so that appropriate yarn is
used in fabric & product
standard test methods determine:
•yarn size
•twist
•bulk
•evenness
•appearance
•performance
yarn quality refers to various factors such as strength
and uniformity—more parallel fibers, tighter twist, more
regular
participation activity—
fancy yarns identification
…using pgs 244-245 in the text, define the following
types of fancy yarns:
•tweed yarn
•slub yarn
•spiral or corkscrew
•ratine yarns
•knot, spot, nub, or knop
•spike or snarl
•loop, curl or boucle yarn
•metallic
•chenille
•braided
•knit
•stitched
…select 7 different fancy yarns from “yarn grab bag”
…mount them to your yarn identification sheet
…identify them using the text and complete the
information required