whatto . COOKneXr- CHEF WAY FRIED DOUGH Breanne Varela deep-fries her sweetpotato doughnuts, then serves them with bacon-caramel sauce and homemade maple ice cream. BAKED BREANNE VARELA SAYS " I love chef Suzanne Goin's sweet potatoes with bacon, so I imitated those flavors." CHEF RECIPES » DOUGH Baking the doughnuts (and holes too) and tossing them with a little butter, cinnamon and sugar makes them healthier. The sweet potato in the dough adds a lovely, earthy flavor. MADE EASY Sweet Potato Doughnuts ACTIVE: 45 MIN; TOTAL: 3 HR 30 MIN Dessert Redux Pastry chef Breanne Varela is known for killer doughnuts and cookies. F&W makes her best recipes easier and healthier. HEALTHIER WAY PHOTOGRAPHS BY CON POULOS says pastry chef Breanne Varela of Los Angeles's Tavern, and the Larder at Tavern, co-owned by chef Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne. Deep-fried sweet-potato doughnuts with bacon-caramel sauce are among Varela's most popular desserts, rivaled by her chocolate chip cookies: She and her staff make over 35 pounds of cookie dough at a time and sell almost the whole batch in one day. So how does Varela stay slim around so many sweets? She has several rules: "I don't bake at home. I don't eat sweets outside of work. I taste a little, then move on. And I never overindulge:' To help home bakers who may lack Varela's discipline, F&Wturned her indulgent recipes into simple, healthy desserts. They're delicious even without the bacon-caramel sauce. -Kate Heddings "PEOPLE 82 LIKE ANYTHING MARCH 2011 FRIED;' MAKES 2 DOZEN DOUGHNUTS Instead of slowly baking the potato in the oven, microwaveit for just 10 minutes. ;;:-c l< u, UJ :z: .:;, ::; ::> z 0: ~ ~ -c X DOUGHNUTS One 12-ounce sweet potato 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 112 cup whole milk 1 envelope instant dry yeast 112 cup granulated sugar 112 cup light brown sugar 11.4 teaspoons kosher salt 112 vanilla bean, seeds scraped 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg 1 tablespoon dark rum 1 large egg 2 large egg yolks 31,4 CUpSbread flour,plus more for rolling FOODANDWINE.COM 3' UJ 0: " G -' UJ > i= :z: -c 0: -c <f) u, a >- <f) UJ f0: ::> a (J Ui J: c. " 0: o a fa J: c. what to COOk next HEALTHIER WAY WHOLE MILK HEAVY CREAM At Tavern, Varela's panna cotta has a chocolate coating with two garnishes: pumpkin-seed brittle and candied pumpkin. Milk replaces the cream in this cocoarich panna cotta. Spiced pepita (pumpkin seed) brittle is a quick and easy garnish. 5. Preheat the oven to 400° and position racks in the upper and lower thirds. Bake the holes for 10 minutes and the doughnuts for about 20 minutes, until risen and golden. 6. MEANWHILE, MAKE THE TOPPING In a small bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon. Put half of the hot doughnuts in a large bowl and drizzle with some of the melted butter; toss and turn to coat. Sprinkle with some of the cinnamon sugar and toss and turn until evenly coated. Repeat with the remaining CHOCOLATE WITH PANNA SPICED PEPITA doughnuts, COTTA butter and cinnamon sugar. Transfer the doughnuts to a platter; serve. BRITTLE Chocolate Panna Cotta with Spiced Pepita Brittle seeds, nutmeg and rum. Add the sweet potato TOPPING 1 cup granulated 1 teaspoon sugar cinnamon 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted ACTIVE: 30 MIN; TOTAL: 2 HR 30 MIN puree, browned butter and solids, egg and 6 SERVINGS egg yolks and beat until combined. Add the This light. silky panna cotta tastes a lot like 31,4cups of bread flour and beat at medium hot cocoa in custard form. The brittle is easy speed until the dough is evenly moistened, to make; heat sugar and water on the stove, Prick the sweet about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to mod- swirl in butter and spiced pepitas (shelled with a fork and cook it in a erately high and beat until a soft dough forms, pumpkin seeds), then let cool. microwave at high power for 10 minutes, until about 5 minutes. Gather the dough into a ball tender. and transfer to a buttered bowl. Cover and 1. MAKE THE DOUGHNUTS potato allover Let cool, then peel and puree the sweet potato; you should have about 1 cup. let rise in a draft-free place for 1 hour. 2 teaspoons powdered unflavored gelatin 23,4 cups whole milk 2.ln a small skillet, cook the butter over mod- 4, Punch down the dough and let stand for erate heat until nutty and lightly browned, 5 minutes. On a lightly floured surface, roll 3,4 cup plus 2 tablespoons about 4 minutes. Scrape the browned butter out the dough 1,4 teaspoon 1/2 inch thick. Using a 23,4-inch and solids into a small bowl and let cool. round cutter, stamp 3. In the same skillet. heat the milk until just as possible. Using a smaller out as many rounds 6 ounces bittersweet round cutter chocolate, chopped warm, about 105°. Pour the warm milk into (1 inch), stamp out the centers. Transfer the the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted doughnuts and holes 'to 2 parchment with the dough hook. Add the yeast and let paper-lined baking sheets. Cover loosely 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon stand for 5 minutes. Gently mix in the granu- with plastic wrap and let the doughnuts and I/S teaspoon freshly ground lated sugar, light brown sugar, salt. vanilla holes rise in a warm place for 1 hour. 1/2 tablespoon 84 MARCH 2011 sugar salt Vegetable oil 3,4 cup salted roasted pepitas unsalted nutmeg butter FOODANDWINE.COM what to COOK next .~- BARS COOKIES Chocolate chip bars are easier to prepare than cookies. Using whole wheat pastry flour instead of white makes the bars a bit healthier. Varela's chocolate chip cookies are hugely popular at Tavern, in part because each one has lots of big chocolate chunks. Chocolate-Chip-Pecan Cookie Bars ACTIVE: 20 MIN; TOTAL: 1 HR MAKES 32 BARS Feel free to swap walnuts or almonds for the pecans, or use half nuts and half dried cranberries for tart. chewy bars. 1 cup pecans 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2 tablespoons CHOCOLATE-CHiP-PECAN CGOKiE canola oil 1,4 cup plus 2 tablespoons BARS granulated sugar 1,4 cup plus 2 tablespoons light brown sugar 1. In a small bowl. sprinkle the powdered 4. Meanwhile. line a baking sheet with a sili- gelatin over 1,4 cup of the milk and let stand cone mat or lightly oiled parchment until the gelatin is softened. In a small bowl. toss the pepitas utes. In a medium remaining about 5 min- saucepan. combine the 21f2 cups of milk with 2 table- paper. with the 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt with swirling the pan gently. until a medium amber heat. pure vanilla extract cinnamon and nutmeg. In a medium sauce- spoons of the sugar and the salt and bring over moderate 1 teaspoon 11/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour pan. combine the remaining % cup of sugar just to a simmer 1 large egg !f3 cup of water and cook over high heat. Remove the milk from the heat and whisk caramel forms. about 6 minutes. in the softened gelatin until dissolved. from the heat and swirl in the butter Remove 2. In a large microwave-safe the chopped chocolate and 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips 1. Preheat the oven to 3500 and line the bot- tom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with parch- spiced pepitas. Pour the brittle onto the pre- ment paper. Spread the pecans in a pie plate at high power in pared baking sheet and spread it in a very and toast for about 8 minutes, until golden. 10-second intervals. Gradually whisk in the thin layer. Let cool completely. about 20 min- Chop the pecans and let cool. hot milk mixture utes. then crack it into shards. 2. In the bowl of a standing 5. Run a knife around the panna cottas and beat the butter and oil with the granulated until creamy. panna cotta mixture through bowl. melt Strain the a fine sieve electric mixer, invert onto plates. Garnish with the pepita sugar and brown sugar until creamy. Beat in 3. Lightly brush six 1/2-CUpramekins with oil shards and serve. the egg and vanilla until smooth. In a small into a large measuring cup. The panna cottas can be bowl, whisk the flour with the baking soda and set them on a baking sheet. Carefully MAKE fill the ramekins with the panna cotta mix- refrigerated ture and refrigerate them for about 2 hours. brittle can be stored in an airtight container mixer at low speed. Add the chocolate chips until the panna cottas are firm. for up to 5 days. and pecans; beat just until incorporated. 86 MARCH 2011 AHEAD for up to 4 days. The pepita and salt; beat the dry ingredients into the FOODANDWINE.COM what to COOK next HEALTHIER WAY SUNDAE COUPE Folding apple puree into frozen vanilla yogurt, then topping with sauteed apples, makes for a simple, healthy sundae. Varela's coupe layers homemade apple ice cream with apple confit, cheddar crust and creme fraichewhipped cream. 1. MAKE THE CHEDDAR SHARDS Preheat the oven to 350°. In a food processor, combine the flour with % teaspoon of kosher salt. Coarsely grate the cold butter into the food processor. Pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the shredded cheddar cheese and pulse twice. Add the cold water and cider vinegar and pulse just until the dough is evenly moistened. the dough out onto a work surface Turn and knead until it just comes together. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes or until chilled. 2. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, rollout the dough to a 9-inch square and transfer 3. Transfer the dough to the prepared baking pan and press into an even layer. Bake for about 20 minutes, until lightly browned and nearly set in the center. Let cool completely, then run a knife around the edges and invert the rectangle. Peel off the paper and invert CHEDDAR % cup all-purpose MAKE AHEAD The cookie bars can be stored in an airtight container for up to 5 days. utes, until golden. Let cool. flour Kosher salt 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter 1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese 21f2 tablespoons cold water 1,4 teaspoon onto a cutting board. Cut and serve. to the baking sheet. Bake for about 40 min- SHARDS cider vinegar unsalted butter or Granny Smith-cored, granulated Using a slightly tart apple, like a Granny Smith ness. The crispy, salty cheddar crisps that I/S accompany the sundaes are as good with cocktails as they are with desserts. 88 MARCH 2011 teaspoon sugar, cinnamon and freshly grated high heat, stirring fre- until the apples are tender and translucent, about 15 minutes. 4. Add 1/2 cup of water to the skillet and and puree until smooth. Scrape the puree into a bowl and freeze until it is light brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon quently, processor 1,4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sun- apples and-toss to coat. Add the granulated sugar, light brown fer half of the apples to a blender or food sugar dae; sauteing brings out the fruit's sweet- In Add the bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. Trans- 1,4 cup plus 2 tablespoons 50 MIN; TOTAL: 2 HR or Pink Lady, is key to this frozen-yogurt peeled and thinly sliced 8 SERVINGS melt the butter. over moderately 6 tablespoons 6 large apples, such as Pink Lady ACTIVE: PREPARE THE SUNDAE a large skillet, nutmeg and season lightly with salt. Cook SUNDAE Apple Pie Sundaes with Cheddar Crust Shards 3. MEANWHILE, cold, about 30 minutes. 5. Soften nutmeg Kosher salt 2 pints vanilla frozen yogurt transfer the frozen yogurt slightly and it to a large bowl. Fold in the cold apple puree and freeze until the frozen yogurt is firm, about 30 minutes. FOODANDWINE.COM