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Twill Waters Run Deep
a guild exhibit by Weaving Indiana
©2005, Indianapolis, Indiana
Twill!
Traditionally simple and potentially intricate.
The perfect choice for a group project that satisfies both the beginning and the
seasoned weaver.
Twill has been a weaver's choice for thousands of years. It is basic and versatile,
simple yet challenging. It has been used in fabric, baskets, grass matts and
rugs. So much to learn!
For our waterfall of twills, we experimented with color, fiber and sett using any
twill threading we desired. We created narrow bands to display in the exhibit,
after which we will cut up into samples for a sample book containing all the
patterns and information for each participant. The entire guild benefits from
the electronic file (PDF) of the same information added to our growing
electronic library.
We are a new guild (this is only our 3rd year) and we learned a lot about each
other as we met about the project and learned about twill, helping each other
to choose patterns, fiber and to warp looms, making new friends along the way.
We used 4-harness patterns and 20-harness patterns.
This books provides all that information, including fiber, sett, drawdowns,
photos of the finished fabrics and comments from each weaver.
Enjoy it — we certainly did!
Weaving Indiana
Weaving Indiana began just 3 years ago from a small group of experienced weavers with 2
goals in mind — encourage and promote weaving to beginning weavers and to meet on
weekends to include members who work full-time.
The result has been a group of very energetic and motivated weavers, sharing and learning
and growing in numbers each month!
We mentor beginners.
We are teachers, artists, scientists, lawyers and business professionals. We are weavers who
have been weaving for over 40 years and we are beginners with simply a passion to learn.
In the beginning, our more experienced weavers shared their knowledge by exploring the
basic weave structures in detail, with examples and projects to promote understanding and
creativity. Now, our inexperienced weavers are exploring weave structures and then
presenting their new knowledge to the rest of the group.
We focus on technology.
We send our monthly newsletter out through the Internet as a PDF. No postage or paper
costs and no limit to the number of pages. Every issue contains color photos of our
meetings and woven samples.
We maintain a web site to benefit all the weavers in the state, as well as across the
country. A listing of current fiber events and shows greet the visitor at
www.indianaweavers.org. Our web site contains information about most of the weaving
guilds in Indiana. Dozens of gently used looms have found new homes because of the free
classified ads selling personal looms, equipment and yarns. Also found are links to Indiana
weaving shops and suppliers.
Many of our members use weaving software to create patterns or control their new dobby
looms. We use the Internet to learn about weaving from everywhere in the world and to
gain inspiration and communicate with each other.
We have great fun as we learn and share together, keeping the craft of weaving alive.
We are Weaving Indiana!
Weaving Indiana
dedicates this project and book to
Eleanor Best,
whose dedication to weaving,
teaching and preservation of weaving
has been an inspiration to us all.
Thank you, Eleanor.
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
2005 Midwest Weavers Conference Guild Exhibit
Honorable Mention and People's Choice Award
Weaving Indiana used the 2005 Midwest Weavers Conference Guild Exhibit as a goal
for this project on Twill. With so many new weavers, it was an opportunity to
introduce them to the fun and experience of the
conference even if they could not attend.
Nineteen guild members wove twill bands. Many
members helped plan the display and create a "dress
rehearsal" of the booth setup. The weavers who
attended the conference (front the left: Kris Seel,
Tina Hilton, Linda Adamson, Mary Ann Carpenter,
Mindy McCain, and Carrie May) set up the display just
after they arrived at Lakeland College in Wisconsin.
It was well worth the effort. Our guild exhibit won the People's
Choice Award, as well as a hard-fought Honorable Mention (27
points out of 30) against 11 other wonderful guild exhibits.
4
Twill Waters Run Deep
Weavers and their Twills
Linda Adamson Fish at Sea
Wooly Fish at Sea
Sue Parker Bassett Windy Day at Corner Pond
Eleanor Best Curvedcorr
Mary Burks Plain/Twill Bands
Alice Burr Renegade Ripple
Mary Ann Carpenter Little Ripples
Linda Decker Water Dawn
Mary Alice Donceel Caribbean Coast I
Caribbean Coast II
Twill Basket
Janet Higbie Janet Twill
Tina Hilton Blue Ripples
Nina Kennedy Castles and Moats!
Azure
Gail Kincaid Tumbling Mountain River
Harry Kuhn Ripples in Moonlight
Carrie May Water Ripples
Creek Bottom Currents
Daylight Reflections
Mindy McCain Braided River
Running Ripples
Patricia Mink Pacific Wave
Jane Pidgeon Tobago Moonlight
Patty Ray Cut Crystal Creek
Beginner's Blues
Kris Seel Rays of Sunshine
Shadow Weave Turtle
5
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Twill Basics
Next to plain (tabby) weave, twill is the most common of weave structures. Warp and weft floats create
the fabric, requiring more than 2 harnesses. Blue jean fabric (denim) is a 2/1 twill, with warp and
weft floating over 2 threads and under one, and needs only 3 harnesses to produce. More common are
the 2/2 and 3/1 twills, requiring 4 harnesses and creating fabrics that are the same on front and back
(2/2) or exact opposites (3/1 weft faced or 1/3 warp faced).
Twill Progression
1
4
2
3
A straight twill is threaded from the first harness through to the last harness,
1-2-3-4.
A point twill is threaded from the first harness through to the last harness and
back again, 1-2-3-4-3-2-1. On a loom with more than 4 harnesses, it can but need
not include all harnesses.
Other twill threadings can be created by combining harnesses as desired, as long
as the sequences follow the twill progression circle for at least three steps.
The biggest challenge in weaving twill is creating a good selvedge (floating warps are usually needed)
and maintaining an even beat.
A lot has been written about twill over the years...
If anybody were to ask, "Which of all the weaves is the most useful?" the answer would
unhesitatingly be "Twill."
- Mary Meigs Atwater, The Shuttle-Craft Book of American Handweaving
Origin of word –twill – similar in sound to the French word for cloth, toile, which is
pronounced twahl, it appeared in Middle English as twyll or twile. It’s roots, however, are thought to
lie with the Anglo-Saxon word for two or twice, perhaps meaning two lines or wales or cords.
- Jean Scorgie, Weaver's Craft
Of all the weave structures, twill is the most versatile. It can produce more designs, blend
colors and fibers in more ways, and produce more types of fabrics- from gossamer scarves to sturdy
rugs- than any other interlacement!
- Madelyn van der Hoogt, Twill Thrills
Twill takes many forms.... Diagonals are its trademark. The stairstep pattern it takes gently
progresses sideways, one step at a time, while never completely breaking off from the previous steps.
Each step always has at least one thread in common with the previous step.
- Helen Bress, The Weaving Book
Next to the plain texture, tweeling is the most extensive in its applications to every branch of
cloth manufacture; it not only serves as a ground on which other decorations are woven, but it forms ,
purely on its own principles, some of the most beautiful patterns which can be produced in the art of
weaving.
- John Murphy, 1827, as quoted by Marguerite Porter Davison in A Handweaver's Pattern Book
6
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threadings
4
4
3
4
3
2
3
2
1
Straight Twill
2
1
1
4
4
3
3
2
3
2
1
3
2
Point Twill
2
1
4
4
3
4
3
2
2
1
3
Broken Twill
2
1
1
Tie-ups
3 Harness
Tieups
3
3
2
3
2
1
3
2
1
2
1
1
3 3
3
2 2
or
2
1
1
1
2/1 and 1/2 twill tie-up
(3 harness twill cannot produce
a plain weave/tabby)
4 Harness
tabby
4
4
3
4
3
2
3
2
1
2
1
1
4 4
3 3
2 2
1
1
4
3
2/2 twill tie-up
2
1
tabby
4
4
3
4
3
2
3
2
1
2
1
1
4 4 4
3 3 3
2 2
2
1 1
1
4
3
3/1 twill tie-up
2
1
tabby
4
4
3
2
1
4
3
2
1
4
3
3
2
1
4
3
2
2
1
1
7
1/3 twill tie-up
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Fish at Sea by Linda Adamson
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Broken/Reverse Twill
SOURCE
Weaves - A Design Handbook by Eleanor Best, page 125
EQUIPMENT
Loom Louet Octado dobby
Shuttle Schacht and Glimakra boat shuttles
WARP
yarn fiber Euroflax Linen
yarn size and color 14/2 in aqua
sett 20 epi
width in reed 10”
WEFT
yarn fiber Euroflax linen and cottolin
yarn size and color 14/2 , fish colors are cottolin
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 9.75" x 75.75"
After washing 9" x 72"
Washing method hand washed, laid flat to dry, ironed before fully dry.
Shrinkage 8% in width and 5% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
I like the look of linen and feel that it would make nice table
runners. The floats are a bit long, but I felt the pattern would
not show up as well with a finer epi.
Since linen can fray, I had to be gentle dressing the loom. I
spritzed the tie-on knots with water to set them before starting
to weave.
8
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
pegplan
BACK
9
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Wooly Fish at Sea by Linda Adamson
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Broken/Reverse Twill
SOURCE
Weaves - A Design Handbook by Eleanor Best, page 125
EQUIPMENT
Loom Louet Octado dobby
Shuttle Schacht and Glimakra boat shuttles
WARP
yarn fiber Harrisville Shetland wool
yarn size and color 2-ply in grey-green
sett 12 epi
width in reed 10”
WEFT
yarn fiber Harrisville Shetland wool
yarn size and color 2-ply in dark green with accent fish colors
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 9" x 76"
After washing 7.5" x 72"
Washing method hand wash and dry
Shrinkage 16% in width, 5% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
This is the same pattern as Fish at Sea in linen to demonstrate
the large floats at fewer epi. Since it was wool, it shrank a lot
but fluffed up and melded together and made a nice scarf.
Quite a surprise!
10
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
pegplan
BACK
11
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Windy Day at Corner Pond by Sue Parker Bassett
PATTERN NAME
8-harness Undulating Twill
SOURCE
Mastering Weave Structures by Sharon Alderman, page 60
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Macomber
Shuttle 11" Louet boat shuttle and 11" Schacht boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber unmercerized cotton
yarn size and color 8/2 in white
sett 24 epi
width in reed 10.125"
WEFT
yarn fiber unmercerized cotton and blue silk noil
yarn size and color 8/2 in navy
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 9.875" x 108"
After washing 8.25" x 95"
Washing method machine wash warm gentle, machine dry delicate
Shrinkage 16% in width and 12% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
The pattern looked better, more “waterlike” after finishing. A
greater contrast in the 2 weft colors might have added more
interest. The silk noil did give a bit of texture.
I learned about tying back heddles, to “see” pattern changes,
to catch errors while weaving and to reengineer the shaft/
lamm connection.
12
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
13
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Curvedcorr by Eleanor Best
PATTERN NAME
20 harness Point Twill
SOURCE
original
EQUIPMENT
Loom 32-harness Megado electronic dobby
Shuttle 11" slim Schacht
WARP
yarn fiber Merino wool
yarn size and color 24/2 in two shades of blue
sett 30 epi in a 30 dent reed
width in reed 8”
WEFT
yarn fiber cultivated silk
yarn size and color 20/2 in natural
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 7+"
After washing 7+"
Washing method steam pressed only
Shrinkage
14
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
15
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Plain/Twill Bands by Mary Burks
PATTERN NAME
Plain weave and twill
SOURCE
traditional
EQUIPMENT
Loom 4-harness Macomber
Shuttle boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber viscose, rayon/cotton, cotton
yarn size and color 12/2 cotton and novelty in blues and purples
sett 16 epi
width in reed 10”
WEFT
yarn fiber rayon/cotton, viscose
yarn size and color novelty variegated in blues and purples
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 9.5" x 80"
After washing 9.25" x 72" long
Washing method handwash with soap and hot water, line dry
Shrinkage 10% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
This piece has a great hand and beautiful color harmonies.
I like using plain weave with a 2/2 twill to create more interest
for me while I'm weaving and I think it adds visual interest for
the piece as well.
16
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
17
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Renegade Ripple by Alice Burr
PATTERN NAME
6 harness Straight Twill
SOURCE
Dictionary of Weaves, page 27
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Baby Wolf
Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in peacock and mineral blue
sett 20 epi
width in reed 12”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in light blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 10.75" x 84.5"
After washing 10.25" x 76"
Washing method hand washed in Woolite, machine dried. Steam iron.
Shrinkage 5% in width and 10% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
I called this piece "Renegade Ripples" because the ripples that
were so enticing in the drawdown and looked so appealing on the
loom were ornery and disappeared when the fabric was washed.
The creping obliterated the petal-like outlines that gave the
appearance of rippling. The resulting fabric has great texture, but
does not exhibit the ripples that had attracted me to the pattern.
18
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
19
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Little Ripples by Mary Ann Carpenter
PATTERN NAME
16 harness Point Twill
SOURCE
unknown
EQUIPMENT
Loom AVL 36” 16-harness Dobby
Shuttle AVL end-feed shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber 100% unmercerized cotton
yarn size and color natural colors, random warp
sett 30 epi
width in reed 20”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in Mineral (UKI)
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 19” x 34”
After washing 17.5” x 29”
Washing method machine wash hot, machine dry warm
Shrinkage 8.5% in width, 17% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
I have been using 16H point twill for a long time (weaving
yardage in the beginning and now household linens). This strip
is just an extension of that weaving. With a sectional beam it is
easy to do: wind on to the back beam and tie on to the already
threaded up warp yarns that are thru the heddles and the reed.
No threading errors that way.
20
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
pegplan
BACK
21
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Watery Dawn by Linda Decker
PATTERN NAME
6 harness Twill
SOURCE
original design using WeaveMaker
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Baby Wolf with electronic dobby
Shuttle 11" boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber rayon
yarn size and color 8/4 in pale blue, pale pink, marbled pink, blue and gray
sett 16 epi
width in reed 11.5”
WEFT
yarn fiber rayon
yarn size and color same as warp
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 10.5" wide
After washing 10" wide
Washing method machine wash gentle, machine dry damp
Shrinkage 5% in width
WEAVER COMMENTS
I had originally planned to weave this as a stripe but didn't like
the weft color. The piece as woven is more representative of
“watery dawn”, and is a plaid. The threading lends an illusion
of curve to the plaid, which I think would be useful in suiting,
as would the weight and hand of the fabric.
This was my first project on my electronic dobby loom!
22
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
23
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Caribbean Coast I by Mary Alice Donceel
PATTERN NAME
4 harness Twill
SOURCE
Weaver's Craft, Issue #13, page 3
EQUIPMENT
Loom 4-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle 11" boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 in 5 colors, natural to turquoise to dark grey
sett 24 epi
width in reed 11.625”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 in Caribbean blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 11" x 108"
After washing 10.125" x 103"
Washing method machine wash normal, machine dry, iron on cotton setting
Shrinkage 8% in width, 4% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
As a new weaver, I selected the yarns and then tried many
different setts and treadlings before I was happy with it.
I tried to capture the varying shades of the water around the
islands that you see when flying over the Caribbean. I was
surprised how different the pattern looked when the weft color
crossed over the dark and the light warp.
24
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
25
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Caribbean Coast II by Mary Alice Donceel
PATTERN NAME
4 harness Broken Twill
SOURCE
Weaver's Craft, Issue #13, page 3
EQUIPMENT
Loom 4-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle 11" boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 in 5 colors, natural to turquoise to dark grey
sett 24 epi
width in reed 11.625”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 in Caribbean blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 11" x 108"
After washing 10.125" x 103"
Washing method machine wash normal, machine dry, iron on cotton setting
Shrinkage 8% in width, 4% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
This is the same threading as Caribbean Coast I but with a
different treadling.
To arrange the colors, I played with wrapping the yarns around a
small wooden ruler, interleaving the different colors to simulate
what I would warp. I was surprised how different the twill
patterns looked when compared to a single color warp.
26
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
27
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Janet Twill by Janet Higbie
PATTERN NAME
4 harness Twill
SOURCE
original
EQUIPMENT
Loom 4-harness table loom
Shuttle stick shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber linen?
yarn size and color in yellow
sett 24 epi in a 12 dent reed
width in reed 6.5”
WEFT
yarn fiber linen?
yarn size and color in coral
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 6.5" x 76"
After washing 6" x 70.5"
Washing method machine wash hot, air dry
Shrinkage 7%
WEAVER COMMENTS
The thread came from a deceased friend and I think it is linen.
This is my first attempt at weaving!
28
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
pegplan
BACK
29
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Blue Ripples by Tina Hilton
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Point Twill
SOURCE
A Weaver's Book of 8-shaft Patterns, by Strickler, page 90
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle LeClerc boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in baby blue
sett 22 epi
width in reed 9.5”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in cobalt blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 9.5" x 100" long
After washing 9" x 92"
Washing method machine wash gentle, warm, ironed to dry
Shrinkage 8%
WEAVER COMMENTS
This twill was easier than many for me to keep an even beat,
although I had to remember to "keep it light" every time I
would start weaving again. This piece was very nice to weave,
and I kept my thoughts on the gentle waves I saw on the beach
in the Grand Caymans.
30
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
31
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Castles and Moats! by Nina Kennedy
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Point Twill
SOURCE
original design using WeaveMaker
EQUIPMENT
Loom Louet Octado (8-harness electronic dobby)
Shuttle Schacht end-feed shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber hand-dyed Tencel
yarn size and color 10/2 variegated blues and greens
sett 24 epi
width in reed 7.25”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in light blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 6.75" x 63.5"
After washing 6.75" x 63"
Washing method hand washed, dried flat, light steam iron
Shrinkage almost none
WEAVER COMMENTS
I had planned to use a Tencel weft but the color was not
good, so I ordered another color. In the meantime, I wove
this sample with 5/2 perle cotton weft.
The pattern was one I made with Weavemaker weaving
software and the front and back are almost identical.
32
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
pegplan
BACK
33
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Azure by Nina Kennedy
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Point Twill
SOURCE
original design using WeaveMaker
EQUIPMENT
Loom Louet Octado (8-harness electronic dobby)
Shuttle small boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber hand-dyed Tencel
yarn size and color 10/2 variegated blues
sett 24 epi
width in reed 7.25”
WEFT
yarn fiber Tencel
yarn size and color 8/2 in azure
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 7.25" x 65"
After washing 7" x 62"
Washing method hand washed, dried flat, light steam iron
Shrinkage very little — 4%
WEAVER COMMENTS
This is the same threading and treadling as my other sample,
Castles and Moats, except I used Tencel as the weft (instead
of perle cotton). Although the design does not show up very
much, I like the overall color and drape of this sample better.
34
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
pegplan
BACK
35
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Tumbling Mountain River by Gail Kincaid
PATTERN NAME
4 harness Point Twill
SOURCE
traditional
EQUIPMENT
Loom 4-harness Norwood
Shuttle Schacht end-feed shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber Alpaca
yarn size and color handspun worsted weight
sett 12 epi
width in reed 12”
WEFT
yarn fiber Alpaca
yarn size and color handspun worsted weight, dyed purple
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 9.5" x 72"
After washing 8.5" x 65"
Washing method machine wash gentle, cold water with Orvus paste
Shrinkage 29% in width, 10% in width
WEAVER COMMENTS
The Alpaca who provided this fiber lives in Noblesville,
Indiana, and is named Sugarplum. This 2/2 twill is identical
on front and back.
36
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
37
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Ripples in Moonlight by Harry Kuhn
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Undulating Twill
SOURCE
traditional
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle Schacht end-feed
WARP
yarn fiber Lily 6-strand cotton floss
yarn size and color 6-strand floss in light blue, medium blue and dark blue
sett 20 epi in a 10 dent reed
width in reed 7.25”
WEFT
yarn fiber Lily 6-strand cotton floss
yarn size and color 6-strand cotton floss in medium blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 6.5" wide
After washing 6.25" wide
Washing method hand washed in cold water, ironing was needed
Shrinkage 4% total
WEAVER COMMENTS
Originally, I had it sett at 15 epi but found that the weft was
beating in too much. I resleyed the warp to 20 epi and was
better able to achieve a balanced weave.
38
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
39
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Creek Bottom Currents by Carrie May
PATTERN NAME
Swarthmore Twill
SOURCE
A Handweaver's Pattern Book by Davison, page 30
EQUIPMENT
Loom Schacht Wolf Pup
Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in soldier blue, royal blue and natural
sett 18 epi
width in reed 9.75”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in mineral blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 8.5" x 90.25"
After washing 8.125" x 80"
Washing method machine wash and dry, hot iron
Shrinkage 5% width and 12% length
WEAVER COMMENTS
This began as an undulating twill but the floats were too long.
So I rethreaded it into the swathmore twill and am much happier
with it. It reminds me of the water currents at the bottom of a
creek bed.
40
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
41
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Daylight Reflections by Carrie May
PATTERN NAME
2 block 8-harness twill
SOURCE
traditional
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 handpainted/dyed in blues, yellow, greens and reds
sett 30 epi
width in reed 13”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 in cobalt blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom
After washing
Washing method machine washed and dried, steam pressed on cotton setting
Shrinkage about 10%
WEAVER COMMENTS
I hand-dyed the warp in a guild workshop. I painted 5
different narrow warps and chose a progression of colors as if
going from sunrise to sunset on water.
I chose the two block twill pattern because I like it, but at
first thought it looked too much like blocks. After I wove it, I
liked it because of the bright and vibrant colors and the nice
weight yarn and hand of the fabric.
42
Twill Waters Run Deep
Threading, Tie-up, Treadling
BACK
43
FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Water Ripples by Carrie May
PATTERN NAME
Advancing Wall of Troy
SOURCE
Complex Weavers Greatest Hits, Bonnie Inouye, page 45
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in mint, mineral and cactus
sett 18 epi
width in reed 10”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in royal blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom
After washing 7.75" x 91.25"
Washing method machine wash gentle, hang dry, steam pressed
Shrinkage
WEAVER COMMENTS
As I wove this band, my rows looked uneven, like my tension
was off, the rows were wavy. The tension was fine, it was just
that there are sections in the warp being skipped over as I wove
due to the pattern. I lightened up my beat, not packing the
weft, and just let the pattern happen.
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FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Braided River by Mindy McCain
PATTERN NAME
8 harness plaited twill
SOURCE
A Weaver's Book of 8-shaft Patterns (Friends of Handwoven)
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle Schacht end-feed
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in greys, greens and medium blue
sett 16 epi
width in reed 9.25”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 in black
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 8" x 98"
After washing 7.375" x 91.5"
Washing method machine wash and dry, lightly pressed
Shrinkage 8% width, 7% length (more shrinkage in width than expected)
WEAVER COMMENTS
This is the same threading and EPI as "Running Ripples" but with
finer yarn and it creates a much nicer fabric weight.
I wove the pattern with the weft-faced side up to make it
easier to lift the harnesses, but I consider that warp-faced side
the front. I also treadled it "walking style" (left, right, left, right)
to make it easier.
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FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Running Ripples by Mindy McCain
PATTERN NAME
8 harness plaited Twill
SOURCE
A Weaver's Book of 8-shaft Patterns (Friends of Handwoven)
EQUIPMENT
Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf
Shuttle Schacht end-feed
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 3/2 in medium blue, light blue and white
sett 16 epi
width in reed 9.25”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 3/2 in light blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 8.25" x 84"
After washing 7.5" x 78"
Washing method machine wash and dry, light iron
Shrinkage 12% in width and 7% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
I really like the effect that the change in warp color creates
on the front of the fabric, like little streamlets.
The beat was challenging because the adjacent sheds 3 - 4
and 7 -8 were similar and the wefts settled closer together
than in the other adjacent sheds.
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FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Pacific Wave by Patricia Mink
PATTERN NAME
4 harness Stepped Twill
SOURCE
unknown
EQUIPMENT
Loom Schacht Wolf Pup
Shuttle Boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber Cottolin (blend of cotton and linen)
yarn size and color 22/2 in royal blue
sett 24 epi
width in reed 8.25”
WEFT
yarn fiber Cottolin
yarn size and color 22/2 in light blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 7.75" wide
After washing 6.75" wide
Washing method vigorously hand wash very warm, tumble to almost dry, iron
Shrinkage 4% in width
WEAVER COMMENTS
I have been weaving for 30 years and I do a lot of overshot.
This is my first experience with twill and I enjoyed it!
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FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Tobago Moonlight by Jane Pidgeon
PATTERN NAME
16-harness Point Twill
SOURCE
The Coverlet Book by Helene Bress, page 114
EQUIPMENT
Loom 16-harness J-Made
Shuttle boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 5/2 and 10/2 in black, green, blue and purple
sett 15 epi
width in reed 12.5”
WEFT
yarn fiber Bucilla Twinkle Glacé (estron, banlon and metallic)
yarn size and color light blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 11.5" wide
After washing 10" wide
Washing method hand washed, lay flat to dry, light ironing
Shrinkage 13% in width
WEAVER COMMENTS
While watching the moon rise over the ocean, full and brilliantly
white, its reflection on the dark water glittering like diamonds, I
wondered how to transfer that image to my twill band. It had to
sparkle! I searched for a diamond pattern that used all 16
harnesses of my loom. A friend gave me a bag of yarn that she
couldn't use and it was just what I needed.
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FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Beginner's Blues by Patty Ray
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Block Twill
SOURCE
Handwoven Scarves, page 30
EQUIPMENT
Loom Schacht Baby Wolf
Shuttle Schacht end-feed
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 white and blue blocks alternating across
sett 30 epi, woven at 18 ppi
width in reed 12”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 10/2 in dark blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 11.25" x 95"
After washing 10.675" x 86"
Washing method machine wash gentle, warm, lightly ironed
Shrinkage 6% in width, 9% in length
WEAVER COMMENTS
I had the "blues" because of a real fear of broken threads and
threading errors. This, and the experimentation I did with the
weft color, really taught me the value of having sufficient warp
to experiment with. After threading, I though I would never use
anything with that fine a thread again, but after feeling the
drape and seeing how it looked at the end, I was converted!
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FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Cut Crystal Creek by Patty Ray
PATTERN NAME
4 harness Point Twill
SOURCE
based on Handwoven Mar/Apr 1983 hand towel project
EQUIPMENT
Loom Schacht Baby Wolf
Shuttle Schacht end-feed
WARP
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 3/2 in Willow, Mosstone and Blue
sett 13 epi
width in reed 11”
WEFT
yarn fiber mercerized cotton
yarn size and color 3/2 in Blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 9.875" x 69"
After washing 9.25" x 69"
Washing method handwash, tumble dry damp, lay flat to finish drying
Shrinkage 7% in width
WEAVER COMMENTS
As a beginning weaver, all aspects of weaving have been
deeply satisfying--I love the sense of order and the repetitive
aspect of it.
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2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Rays of Sunshine by Kris Seel
PATTERN NAME
8 harness Broken Twill
SOURCE
unknown
EQUIPMENT
Loom 60" 8-harness Macomber
Shuttle boat shuttle
WARP
yarn fiber Silk City Martinique (viscose, cotton and linen)
yarn size and color hand-spaced-dyed in yellows, blues and greens
sett 15 epi
width in reed 12”
WEFT
yarn fiber unmercerized cotton
yarn size and color 8/2 blue
DIMENSIONS
Off loom 10.5" x 103"
After washing 9.5" x 98"
Washing method machine washed, dried flat, light iron
Shrinkage 14%
WEAVER COMMENTS
It was beautiful while weaving but I was disappointed after
I took it off the loom. It became "striped" but was more
random while weaving. I learned how to dye next time—more
elongated rather than cross-wise. I will cut it and make
something so the stripes don't appear.
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FRONT
2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project
Twill Basket by Mary Alice Donceel
Mary Alice says...
My interest in twills was sparked by the program on twills at the Weaving Indiana
Guild I had recently joined, and the planning of their project for the Waves of Weaving
conference.
While taking my second basket weaving class, I got into a discussion with the
instructor about weaving baskets in twills. She showed me a book of all sorts of
beautiful baskets done in twills. I finally gathered up the nerve to try a basket on my
own without attending a
class. Margaret Harness,
owner of Willowe’s Basketry
in Greenfield, IN, helped me
select a pattern that would
give the appearance of a
bucket, thinking that it might
go well as part of our display.
Starting with Margaret’s
Apple Gathering basket
pattern, I modified it to
increase the number of stakes
so that the pattern would
work out for each round in a
1-2 twill.
I was pleased with my
accomplishment of doing this
on my own, and now have a
hand woven basket to hold
rovings next to my spinning
wheel.
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Shadow Weave Turtle by Kris Seel
Shadow Weave is a form of twill using alternating colors across the warp and weft,
giving intricate patterns with the color-and-weave effect. This fabric was inspired by a
guild meeting about this weave structure. The turtle is woven with Karded Cotton in 8/2
green and 10/2 brown, sett at 24 epi.
The sewing pattern for the turtle was from Weaving a Zoo by Amy Preckshot.
Kris LOVES turtles and has been to South Carolina with her best friend to help save the
sea turtles as they crawl to the sea. They had to fend off foxes and seagulls.
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