FASHION for
Real PEOPLE
PART TWO
Pati
&Marta
SEWING
WITH
M6709
Well, it is time for the Sewing & Stitchery Expo in
Puyallup, Washington, and it inspires Marta and me
to do a sewing marathon. But “thinking spring” is not
easy during the winter months. I want to wear my
new clothes at the show, but it is still cold here
through the end of March.
My fabric choices were also dark colors, so Marta
looks much springier than I do. But let’s just say
I am ahead of myself for Fall 2013.
Someone from Florida mentioned that we
our clothes are too wintry in general for those
who live in hot climates. We have only about
a month of heat, so we tend to sew for year
round! You can change the fabric choices
to match your climate or use sleeveless
versions of our looks to accommodate.
Happy Sewing,
18
M6601
Spring
2013
Twirly Dress: Skirt and Top
M6513
SEWING
NOTES
FROM
Marta
My fabric is a rayon knit. I love this M6513 top and now have made
it five times. I did shorten it about 4” since it is a long top. With it is
a wonderful skirt, M6608, which I shortened 8”. It really goes almost
to the floor and heavier knits hang longer still. The skirt has four
godets, but I put them only in the front seams. I used fabric from
my stash and was able to make the entire outfit with 3 1/2 yards.
See layout tips for the skirt in the Fall 2012 newsletter, where we
also covered hemming with Steam-a-Seam.
M6608
SEWING
NOTES
FROM
Pati
This top is from one of our favorite
designs, M6513. We both have sewn it
numerous times. We shortened the top 4”
and used a rayon knit with a lot of stretch,
so I did not do my 1/2” bust adjustment
and added less to the side seams in the
waist and hip areas. For more tips for this
top and Melissa’s skirt, read the Fall 2012
issue of this e-letter.
19
M6513
Wardrobe Building
Tank: McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch M6355
Skirt: Melissa Watson for P/P M6608
Jacket: McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch M6655
20
SEWING
NOTES
FROM
Pati
I decided to add a jacket to last summer’s twirly
skirt and tank to give it a suity look. So why not
add a pant for a real suit? Now I can mix and
match. (Refer to Fall 2012 for sewing tips for the
knit top and skirt.)
Marta in the Same Jacket
M6655
The pocket instructions are from
Jackets for Real People and you can
follow step-by-step with the DVD.
I already owned the silk charmeuse, so when I saw
this Armani nubby blue and brown tweed, I had to
have it! I straightened out the seams a bit for my
more rectangular figure, used the longer length
view, and added the double-welt pockets.
When Is a Dress a Blouse?
For Pati’s tips on
sewing this jacket,
see page 28
Melissa’s dress M6433 is a great pattern, but I can’t
wear a waistline seam. However, I love the top as a
blouse, so I just lengthened it and raised the neckline about 3” for modesty! I also made the skirt
with pleats in grey flannel, adding a waistband.
M6433
21
M6464
More Wardrobe
Building With Pati
M6709
I made the black wool
knit dress from McCall’s
Palmer/Pletsch M6464. So
for spring I added a tweed
jacket, McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch M6709,
which added my hair color to the black so there is a
connection. I can also now mix the jacket with the black
pants in my wardrobe, using my new silk tank under it.
The jacket has raglan
sleeves and a box pleat
in the back with a belt.
I made the belt the size
of the back, but I am
going to shorten it
about 2” so it pulls in
the back a bit.
I also used the shorter
length for my tweed.
This is the first pattern
in which we have
addressed fit for raglan
sleeves. See pages 26
and 27 for fitting and
sewing tips.
22
M6709
Marta and Pati Talk Tanks & Blouses
Tops lend a lot of versatillity to your wardrobe. A collection of tops added to basic pieces
like jackets, pants, and skirts enable you to create a multitude of looks, from casual to
dressed up. Here in Portland, even in the summer we often need a jacket over a top for
warmth, and in warmer climates you need a jacket when you go into air conditioning.
M6355
M6355
We wanted to have a classic tank top and teach
you how to fit it. Then you can make it over and
over. This pattern is for knits (the print to the left)
and for wovens (the silk tanks above). Marta
prefers a more “V” neckline, so
she made that change to our
tank pattern McCall’s
Palmer/Pletsch 6355.
The guide sheet also gives
you tips and options for
neckline and armhole edge
finishes. The print knit to the
left is finished with bias
binding; Pati and Marta’s
tanks are lined to the edge. Pati
used the same 4-ply silk for the lining so it is
reversible. Also, lining to the edge is an easy
finish for a sleeveless tank. See the next page
for tips.
23
Sewing a
Lined Tank
To line to the edge:
1. Sew the fronts right sides
together at the armhole and
neckline. Stop stitching the armhole seam 2” from the shoulder.
Do the same for the backs.
Pati
&Marta
TIPS
FROM
2. Trim and grade the seams.
Clip at an angle, staggering the
clips in upper and lower layers.
(See the Pro Tip on this page.)
Turn right side out through the
shoulders.
Step 3
3. Press the seams open by
pressing one seam allowance
toward the top or by using a
dowel and pressing them open.
Don’t skip this step because it
will make the edges sharper.
4. Turn to the right side and
press. Using a ham will make it
easier. You can pin into the ham
to hold in place.
For a neckline with a facing, first clip at an angle through
the garment seam allowance only. Then clip into the facing
seam allowance, alternating the location so no facing clip
falls exactly where the clips in the garment were made.
Step 4
5. Open up the shoulder seams
and sew right sides together.
Press. Now hand slipstitch closed
the 4” at the top edge of the
armhole.
6. Sew side seams right sides
together.
Step 5
24
I have been re-reading the Couture book to
remind me of important steps. I want to share
this tip from Roberta Carr’s book, page 48.
Remember, clip only as needed, making as few
clips as possible. This method provides for some
seam allowance to remain everywhere along
the curved edge and no flat spots or ripples
will result. This is particularly important when
topstitching will be added.
More Tops
M6601
M6613
This blue silk shirt is sewn from the
new unisex pattern, McCall’s M6613,
which is more fitted than past “uni”
patterns. We did not want it to be as
over-sized as in the past or to have a
dropped shoulder. It has 4” of bust
ease. We used to sew the small size
because earlier shirts had 10”
bust/chest ease, but this time I used
the medium. I changed the front
band to my favorite folded, selfinterfaced band. I added an extra fold
on the overlap side to make a hidden
placket. Then I used the stippling
stitch with rayon thread to add a
design to the front placket and cuffs.
25
I call McCall’s 6601 by Fashion Star
my 12-hour blouse! I knew this pattern
was perfect for the fabric Pati gave me
several years ago! There were lots of
details that took extra time to sew. The
pattern includes a pleated trouser.
We love PerfectFuse Sheer on silk. It
adds crispness and doesn’t pucker.
Stiffen washable fabric with
Perfect Sew, embroider,
then wash it out.
I share my
embroidery
knowledge
in this DVD.
SEWING
NOTES
FROM
Marta
SEWING TIPS
FROM
Pati
Tips for Sewing
McCall’s Palmer/
Pletsch M6709
Raglan Jacket
Since we had
never done a
raglan jacket,
ladies in our
workshops
asked for
one so they could learn
to fit. It was a learning experience for
me too, so I made a TEST jacket from
the tracing while I was writing the guide
sheet. I did the longer length without
the collar.
M6709
Note that this is a side
panel, not a princess
and needs to be altered
accordingly. The pattern
companies call seams on
the front princess, but
they may not be “true”
princess. The guide sheet
will be your clue!
In the guide sheet I addressed many fit issues for raglan
sleeves and the back inverted pleat. The high round back
goes into the sleeve to the overarm seam.
The back alterations are best made by first cutting off the pleat.
Make the alterations in the back first. Then match the changes at
the very center back to the pleat, but make the alterations in the
pleat even all the way across. Then tape the pleat to the back,
matching top and bottom. There may be holes in between. It is
OK. Fill them in!
26
THE CHALLENGE OF A LOOSELY WOVEN FABRIC
The tweed was thick so I didn’t
want to fuse to the upper collar
too, so I just added fusible to the
points. This prevents ravelling
when I trim the corners.
The tweed fabric I used for my M6709 jacket is
very loosely woven, so I didn’t want to do my
usual snip marking. Instead, I tailor tacked
notches and other marks.
Also I serged around every piece with a
4-thread stitch before doing any handling.
I think it was the first time in my life I had to
do that. Generally we recommend serging
after sewing, fitting, and pressing for better
accuracy. I was very careful to only skim the
edges with the knife blade.
I sewed a seam in scraps to see how it would sew and
press. What did I learn?
I tested interfacings and chose PerfectFuse
Medium for the collar and facings. Even though
I was putting a collar on the neckline, I added
fusible stay tape over the seamline to keep it
from stretching. I would definitely do this for the
collarless version.
SEWING TIPS
FROM
Pati
Loosely woven fabrics are easy to sew, but this one was
so loose that it was almost fragile. I switched to a 3mm
stitch length to make ripping easier. I also decided to use
a lighter thread color so I could see the stitches better. I
used ivory on top and beige on the bottom so they’d
blend in with the tweed. I thought the fabric was all wool,
but it melted with my hot iron. It must have had a bit of
nylon blended in, so I turned the iron down and cleaned
the sole plate with Dritz’s Clean and Glide.
My judgment of ease required was off. The fabric is
thicker than it looks and so I ended up with ¼” seams
through the body area. Therefore, I couldn’t add the
inseam pockets as I’d intended since the fabric was way
too ravelly to use the welt pockets in the pattern.
Remember that when you are pairing a solid to a tweed, use the
14-foot rule---stand back 10-14’ and see if they blend. It is what
you see in a distance that matters, not what you see up close.
27
A Favorite Jacket
M6655
This jacket body is my favorite. I
made it twice, one a navy wool
crepe and the other a burgundy
brown stretch wool. It has many
vertical seams so that you can
make it flatter nearly any body
shape. It has all the alteration
lines on all pieces including
the lining. Note that this is
also a side panel, not a
princess front.
Creative Collar Possibilities
Silk Charmeuse as Lining and Matching Tank Top
Get creative with the collar variations. I chose to make the
drapey collar on the navy jacket. But to make the brown jacket more versatile, I eliminated the collar entirely! I am making
a detachable silk charmeuse collar instead. It just snaps
inside the neckline.
To keep the drapey collar soft, I
lined it with silk charmeuse, which
then, of course, called for a tank top
from the same silk. I had enough in
my stash. I liked just a touch of shine
so used the wrong side of the
charmeuse.
The red line on the pattern piece
shows where I made the collar
narrower for my preference.
SEWING NOTES
FROM
Pati
28
continues on next page
More About My M6655 Jacket
PerfectFuse Light worked beautifully
to interface this jacket.
The jacket front is fused with PerfectFuse TailorUltra™ and the rest of the
jacket body is fused with PerfectFuse Light™.
The jacket and pants are lined. The pant waistband is interfaced with Perfect Waistbands interfacing—so easy to use
and doesn’t roll.
M6655
This jacket has many seams so you can shape it to your
body for the most slimming look. I used the shorter length.
The collar was too wide for me, so I narrowed it. I had to
make it twice since the charmeuse drooped, so I cut the
outer edges of the silk 1/4” smaller to allow for turn of cloth.
I always make an interfacing test sample,
then use it for practicing my machine buttonholes. I accidentally made my first test
buttonhole on an uninterfaced layer and
it looked horrible.
M6757
So I made one on the interfaced sample.
It was much better!
PerfectFuse TailorUltra is soft like cashmere,
and adds a lovely amount of body. I had to
use black permanent marker to hide the
white interfacing after cutting open my
machine buttonholes. I just ran the pen
along the buttonhole raw edges.
29
The pant I am wearing is a new
design that will be out soon,
McCall’s Palmer/Pletsch 6757.
It has the vertical single welt
pockets from page 137 of
Pants for Real People. More
importantly, the pattern has the
pattern pieces
already created
for you!
SEWING NOTES
FROM
Pati
M6571
No-side-seam
Pant is sewn from a
heavy cotton knit,
which I had to take
in after it was sewn.
To do that I sewed
the front and back
crotch seams about 1/2”
deeper down to the lower curve. Then I
took the inseams 1/2” deeper to the knee.
It worked well.
M6571
The top is a cotton knit that I bought years ago
at Fabric Depot. It is hand painted and I just
had a yard. I brought the neckline in closer to
my neck and deepened the “V”.
SEWING
NOTES
FROM
M6709
Marta
M6709 Green Print
Jacket This is a wonderful
raglan sleeve jacket and very easy
to sew, unless you choose a very
loosely woven polyester fabric!
By the time I was ready to sew
on the collar, the neckline had grown
3”! But I love the print since it contains my
eye color. So, many hours later after much
unsewing, I finished the jacket. About two
years after I bought the print fabric, I found
the perfect woven Tencel fabric for the pant!
That was easy to sew!
(Also see Pati’s notes on
page 26 about sewing
the jacket.)
Measure your hip at the fullest point and add 1- 2” for ease and
cut to that size. Mark the crotch seamline for your size in red and
add lines for the lower back crotch stitching lines. Tape to the
stitching lines.
30
Fusible stay tape can be ironed over the
neckline seam to prevent stretch in
stretchy knits and loosely woven fabrics.
Have you made a
garment you think
would fit in
FASHION for
Real PEOPLE?
We love to see what you’re doing and, when
possible, include your projects in this publication.
Send Pati photos along with a description of your
garment and any special sewing techniques.
Send an e-mail to [email protected]
We hope you’ve
enjoyed this issue
of Fashion for
Real People.
Love to sew?
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Sewing Vacation
in beautiful Portland, Oregon,
and now in Philadelphia,
Seattle, and Michigan!
• 4-DAY AND 5-DAY
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“This DVD should be in the
hands of every beginning sewer,
or at least in the hands of the
teacher of every beginning
sewing class.”
If fabrics are a mystery, watch this
DVD! It all starts here. Available at
www.palmerpletsch.com.
31
* OPTIONAL PROGRAMS
* SHOPPING TOURS
* TEACHER TRAINING
* IMAGE MAKEOVERS
Workshops are selling out quickly so be sure
to sign up soon. Visit
www.palmerpletsch.com
for complete details.