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spring’s best bets
THE SHIRTDRESS
Shown on designer runways in cotton, cotton/lycra, suede, linen, silk,
silk shantung, graphic and floral prints, and beaded silk georgette, this
versatile classic never fades too far away without being revived in new
fabric applications.
This easy-to-wear dress can look sophisticated or casual, and be worn
loose and straight, softly belted, buttoned or unbuttoned and worn like
the duster in our Editors’ Choice grouping.
Wear it belted, under our strong-shouldered blazer (McCall’s 2341 by
Palmer/Pletsch) or the cropped jacket (McCall’s 3106). Wear it unbuttoned as a coat over designer jeans and a t-shirt.
We feel that the best hem length for spring is just below the knee.
Slimming tips:
An open neckline combined with the center vertical line of buttons
adds length to the neck and slims the body.
Open a few buttons from the bottom of your dress to reveal a bit of leg
when you walk. This gives the illusion of longer legs.
Add shoulder pads to
balance your hips.
Taper the hemline.
Choose a soft fabric
that drapes well. Wear
the shirtdress unbelted.
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Pattern Pick
McCall’s 3158
THE SHIRTDRESS
in longer lengths
helps you look
taller and slimmer
Alicia Panetta, who teaches sewing in University,
Mississippi, added couture touches to a shirtdress
while taking the Palmer/Pletsch Couture Workshop
in the summer of 2000. She chose a silk shantung
fabric and piped the collar, yoke and cuffs of the
shirtdress. It is beautiful. The longer length adds
height. She made an Ultrasuede tie belt to wear
with it.
Try a shirtdress in Ultrasuede® Light for the look of
luxurious softly drapable suede in a washable, easy-care, easy
sew fabric!
NOTE: We are showing you the current shirtdress pattern
that is in McCall’s pattern book right now. Watch for the new
Palmer/Pletsch shirtdress pattern coming later in March, McCall’s
3254. It will have alteration lines for bust, back and sleeves
printed on the pattern pieces with fitting instructions in the
guidesheet. It has sleeveless, 3/4-length, and long sleeve versions. It can be worn as a long vest over a top and pants. It can
be darted at the waist or not. We love it!
a pattern watch tip from
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spring’s best bets
THE STRONGSHOULDERED
BLAZER
The strong shoulder line of the ‘80s continues into spring with our favorite fitting blazer.
Choose lightweight wool gabardine, lightweight wool crepe, linen, and cotton poplin.
Pair the blazer with slim fitting pants or designer jeans -- McCall’s by Palmer/Pletsch #9233.
and soft skirt
Combine the classic blazer with a soft chiffon skirt,
finishing just below the knee, for one of the newest
looks of the season
Direct from the ‘50s, the full skirt looks new again
hemmed just below the knee. The top of the skirt
should be smooth without excess fullness at the
waistline. Choose the femininity and soft draping of
silk, silk georgette, or chiffon in either solid colors or
prints. Pati’s favorite fabric for the full gathered skirts
is georgette. This crepey sheer has more weight than
chiffons and will drape better.
Pair it also with a soft cashmere sweater (does this
bring back memories?), a wrap top, or a cropped
jacket. The perfect shoe?….pumps.
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Try McCall’s 3065 or pattern 2255, at right for a soft, flippy hemline without the fullness on the lower body.
from Couture, the Art of Fine Sewing
ADD A
ruffle
to a
blazer, blouse or skirt.
Circular ruffles, which are
not gathered to the garment
but instead ripple away from
it, give a distinctive look that
is less bulky and more elegant
than gathered ruffles.
At right, Alicia models the
cardigan jacket she made in
the couture workshop. Her
“couture” touch was the circular ruffle added to each edge. Even though the wool crepe ruffle is lined to
the edge with self fabric, it is not bulky with this technique.
a sewing tip from
Circular ruffles are just that -- a series of circles
sewn together. Sew enough together that the
inside edge stitching line is equivalent in length
to the edge to which it is being sewn.
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spring’s best bets
THE CROPPED JACKET
The zip-front cropped jacket remains a favorite in snakeskin, leather, suede, or
gabardine. Choose bright or neutral gabardine, soft pastel colored leathers...
or even Ultraleather or Ultrasuede.
Slimming tip:
You will need at least some or a definite waistline to
wear this jacket. If you have a prominent tummy, be sure
that the jacket length skims over the fullest part.
Pattern Pick
McCall’s 3106
add a soft skirt in a
flattering length
Make sure that the hem aligns
with indentations and narrowing parts of the leg. For more
figure flattering information
see Looking Good, A
Comprehensive Guide to
Wardrobe Planning, Color &
Personal Style Development.
a fashion
tip from
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Combine the cropped jacket with designer
jeans (#9233) or a full skirt (#3065).
Choose a darker, more subtle color for your
jacket. Avoid full skirts.
Choose a soft pastel or bright accent color for
you jacket to enhance your upper body.
Choose a darker, subdued color on the bottom.