Spring-Summer 2004
FOR
McCALL’S 2718
Pati Palmer has been
adding fitting directions to McCall’s patterns since 1980 and
personally writes every
guidesheet. In 1997
the Palmer/Pletsch
FIT FOR REAL PEOPLE
pattern line was
introduced with
alteration lines drawn
right on the tissue.
The fit lessons in each
guide are SPECIFIC
to each design.
These patterns have
been featured in Sew
News, Women’s Wear
Daily, McCall’s Pattern
Magazine, Australian
Stitches and in newspaper articles around
the world. They are
companions to the
books Fit for Real
People and Pants for
Real People, both by
Pati Palmer and
Marta Alto.
Basic Fit Pattern
This is the pattern used in
Palmer/Pletsch fit workshops
to create your “body map.”
It is included in classes
taught by Palmer/Pletsch
instructors worldwide.
McCALL’S 2818
Princess Line, Back
Button, Shell Blouse
McCALL’S 2538
The 3-Hour Blouse
Convertible collar, yoke,
painless placket sleeve,
alteration lines for bust
adjustment include
transferring the added
dart to the shoulder pleats.
Short sleeves and sleeveless
with four necklines and three
sleeve options. Learn to fit a
fitted princess top with all of
the alteration lines printed
on the tissue and how-tos in
the guidesheet.
McCALL’S 2953
The Classic Fit
3-Hour Trousers
View A is a very classic
trouser with excellent
instructions for sewing
pleats, fly zipper, and
trouser pockets. View B
has a full leg, which is
great in soft fabrics.
Fitting help can be found
in the guidesheet.
McCALL’S 3589
Shirtdress,
Vest, or Jacket
With Pant
McCALL’S 3254
Shirtdress, Duster,
or Sleeveless Vest
Optional darts for more shape.
This is a very flattering dress
for many figure types. If you
have a full tummy, use only
the back darts.
We LOVE this easy
pattern. Pati just
made the jacket 5
times in 5 different
fabrics. The standup collar, side slits,
and turned back
slitted cuff on the
sleeve add interesting details. Tip:
Complete the collar
and sandwich it
between garment
and facings that
are right sides
together. Then sew
the entire neckline.
Turn and it is all
finished. This is a
little faster than what we did in the guidesheet
and works well unless you have a bulky, heavier
fabric. See our Fall-Winter 2003 Fashion for Your
Figure e-newsletter at www.palmerpletsch.com for
pictures of Pati’s 5 jackets made from this pattern.
McCALL’S 3668
Button Front
Princess Blouses
Short sleeves and sleeveless
with four necklines and three
sleeve options. Learn to fit a
fitted princess top with all of the
alteration lines printed on the
tissue and how-tos in the guide
sheet.
McCALL’S 3740
The Perfect Pants
The newest Palmer/Pletsch pant pattern includes a
plain fitted pant, a flat front pant with a fly and
slanted trouser pocket, and a pleated trouser. For
the trouser, there is a stay that goes from the side
front into the zipper to help keep the pleats flat.
It is done a different way than past Palmer/Pletsch
patterns. A piece of fashion fabric is sewn to the
lining forming the side inset and stay unit. This way,
from the inside of the pant, one only sees lining.
It is clean looking and non bulky because both
pocket bags are made from lining. However, the
lining is caught to the fly extension by hand after
the zipper is inserted. If you’d rather do it all by
machine, add 15/8" to the center front of the stay so
it can be caught while inserting the zipper.
We used to think that one pleat direction was more
flattering than the other. We now feel what makes
them more flattering is that they are stitched down to
the fullest part of your tummy. Also, the crease must
join the edge of the pleat. If you reverse the pleat
direction, the crease will be skewed at the top.
McCALL’S 3792
Jacket with Notched
or Stand Up Collar
Great in Polar Fleece and wool
coating. Flat oversized pieces
are nice for embellishing or
patchwork.
McCALL’S 4138
Wrap Skirt
McCALL’S 3931
Jacket, Camisole,
Skirt, and Pant
This pattern is classic.Alteration
lines on the tissue make fitting
easy. • The jacket can be
made long or short and darted
or un-darted. Therefore, it fits
many figure types. Interface the
facings with Perfect Fuse
Medium and the front with
Perfect Fuse Tailor. Lining the
jacket is easier than finishing
all of the seams professionally.
• The camisole neckline and
armholes are finished with a
bias facing. Follow the pattern
and guidesheet instructions for
perfect results. Alternately, you
can make the camisole doublelayer and reversible. To make a
reversible camisole, sew the
necklines and armholes RIGHT
SIDES TOGETHER, then turn the
front right side out and insert
the front shoulders into the
back shoulders. Sew the
shoulder seams and turn the
top right side out. Lastly, sew
the side seams, matching the
underarm seams. Serge-finish
the lower edges separately,
letting them hang free.
• The skirt and pants are
darted with a no-zipper, side
opening. If you have a full
tummy, you can eliminate the
darts for more room.
McCALL’S 4007
McCALL’S 4079
Top, Tunic or Dress
with Pull-on Pants
3-Hour Unisex Shirt
This is an Orientalinspired design and
currently a McCall’s best
seller. The entire top can
be sewn by machine.
The straight grain band
should be interfaced.
You can embroider on
the band before attaching. Use Perfect Sew
Stabilizer to stiffen the
fabric if it is washable,
then embroider and
wash out the Perfect
Sew.
McCALL’S 4232
Shawl Collar Jacket
or Coat Dress, Skirt,
and Pant
The princess jacket with
has side-front seam pockets. There are two buttons under the collar.
The skirt has darts, back
zipper and back vent.
Pants have fly front, front
pleats and back darts.
Use wool crepe, gabardine, silk suiting, flannel
or faille.
Palmer/Pletsch shirt patterns always have easy
sewing techniques, a
painless placket, and fit
help. This one has a
band collar or a twopiece collar with band,
optional flapped pockets,
yoke, and sewing tips to
help you learn to
make this shirt in less
than three hours.
The new wrap skirt pattern has five views with
different waist treatments
including
a faced waistline, narrow
and 2" waistbands, and
the addition of a buckle or
ties. • Before finishing
the waistline on a wrap
skirt, try it on. If the underlap is hanging longer than
the overlap, adjust now
by pulling up the underlap
until it is hidden by the
overlap. Re-mark the
waistline seam. • This
pattern is lined to the
edge, but you can eliminate the lining and finish it
totally by machine. Serge
the hem and front edges.
Then turn up the hem and
topstitch 1" from the fold.
Then turn under the front
edge 11/4" and topstitched
1" from the fold.
1801 N.W. Upshur • Suite 100 • Portland, OR 97209 • (503) 274-0687
Visit us at our web site: www.palmerpletsch.com
For a 4-day workshop brochure e-mail [email protected] or [email protected]
McCALL’S 4459
McCALL’S 4394
Trouser-style pant has fly front,
two front pleats, and side
seam pockets. View A is
cropped. Views C and D
are wider in the legs. View D
has cuffs. Fitting instructions
included in guide and alteration lines are printed on the
tissue. Sizes 8-24
Wear the collar
up or open.
The coat
has pockets in the
princess
seams.
3 Hour Perfect Trousers
Princess Line Dress With Duster Coat or
Jacket, Pant, and Princess Sleeveless Top
McCALL’S 9579
Classic 3-hour shirt
Palmer/Pletsch shirt patterns always
have easy sewing techniques, a painless
placket, and fit help. This one has a
band collar or a two-piece collar with
band, optional flapped pockets, yoke,
and sewing tips to help you learn to
make this shirt in less than three hours.
McCALL’S 9233
Jeans That Fit!
If you want this pattern,
get it now! When you are
sewing all of these details,
it is easier with a SINGLESIZED pattern so you have
all of the stitching lines
marked on the tissue.
It makes tissue-fitting so
much easier and we show
you how to do it in the
guidesheet!! The design
includes two traditional
5-pocket jeans, one fitted
and one relaxed in fit. It
also includes a khaki type
casual pleated trouser AND
a tapered leg fitted pant
with a narrow waistband.
PALMER/PLETSCH DESIGNS
FOR MCCALL'S INCLUDE
THESE FEATURES:
GUIDESHEETS WRITTEN BY PATI PALMER WITH
• detailed instructions on how to fit each garment
• tips for easier, more professional results
PATTERN TISSUE WITH
• alteration cut or fold lines printed
right on the tissue.
high bust
for top
Buy the
right size!
fullest
hip for
pants