Foreword by ALICE WATERS ANDREW FEINBERG . FRANCINE STEPHENS . MELISSA CLARK FRANNY’S SIMPLE . SEASONAL . ITALIAN Beloved recipes from the famed Brooklyn eatery, “one of the 101 best places to eat in the world” (Newsweek) FRANNY’S “Other restaurants have honorable pies, admirable lettuces or noteworthy salumi. But not many do all three with as much joy and distinction.” —FRANK BRUNI “A favorite for its wood-fired pizzas, home-spun cocktails and local vegetables simply prepared” —RUTH REICHL MEET ANDREW AND FRANCINE Andrew Feinberg graduated from the French Culinary Institute before working at restaurants like Savoy, Gramercy Tavern, and Veritas, where he expanded his understanding of the relationship between farmer and chef, seasons and menu. Francine Stephens has managed Franny’s since its opening. She discusses the restaurant’s sustainable agriculture practices (and fantastic pizza) on national television programs such as Martha Stewart Living. Together the couple owns and operates Franny’s, Bklyn Larder, and the soon-tobe-open Marco’s in Park Slope. For this book, they collaborated with New York Times food columnist and cookbook author Melissa Clark. FOREWORD The thing that instantly struck me about Franny’s was the aroma of the place. Franny’s just smells good—there is the scent of fresh garlic, and really good olive oil, and the fire you see the moment you walk in the door. There is the intensification of all smells in the marriage of ingredients in the flames: blistered Romano beans with chili oil, fire-roasted broccoli, melting cheese, blackening crust. It is unforgettable. Francine and Andrew’s famous clam pizza was the first dish to woo me—to my knowledge, there is no other clam pizza like it. It is nearly naked, spread with a clam-broth-and-cream reduction and sprinkled with shelled clams, chili pepper, and fresh parsley leaves. Every element of the pizza is deftly calibrated so that the clams’ real taste—their essential clamness—comes through. You can taste this harmony of ingredients in all their pizzas, from the classic balance of buffalo mozzarella, San Marzano tomato sauce, and house-made fennel sausage on the sausage pizza to the radical simplicity of the pizza bianca: chewy, thin, charred crust; extra-virgin olive oil; and a generous scattering of Maldon sea salt. I believe there is no better pizza in all of New York. unsurprisingly, it is some of the best pasta I have had outside of Rome. The beauty of each dish is in its simplicity: there’s nothing eccentric or exotic here, just perfect al dente spaghetti, maccheroni, and penne, strewn with seasonal vegetables and herbs. And, indeed, the salads and vegetables here are as much the stars as the pizza and pasta. Francine writes that “great ingredients demand respect, and vegetables are as deserving as any”—and you can see this vegetable reverence in every dish. It is so great to be able to come back to this restaurant, to be able to rely on something so straightforward, without pretense. Thank goodness there is someone who is doing this! This book captures the beating heart of what makes Franny’s so beautiful: its simplicity, its hospitality, its ability to make the ordinary surprising, and—above all—its celebration of honest everyday cooking. When Franny’s introduced pastas, it seemed impossible to imagine that you would ever want to eat one instead of their incredible pizza—and yet, —Alice Waters ix | F OR E W OR D | WELCOME TO A Brooklyn destination with a national following, Franny’s is celebrated for its simple, seasonal Southern Italian dishes and exceptional pizza. The ever-changing, ingredient-driven menu is one part rustic Southern Italian, one part urban farmer’s market, and filled with dishes that are much more than the sum of their parts. In a city of impeccable restaurants, über-talented chefs, and a burgeoning artisanal pizza scene, Franny’s stands apart as one of Brooklyn’s finest. Clam, Chili, and Parsley Pizza There’s not much on Franny’s menu that reflects Andrew’s training in classic French cuisine, with the prominent exception of our clam pizza. You wouldn’t necessarily think so, as clam pizza is an Italian-American staple, especially in New Haven. But ours is significantly different. Andrew steams sweet littleneck clams with garlic, onions, bay leaf, and wine, then simmers the clam broth down with a little heavy cream. This intense shellfish glaze gets painted on the dough, adding a depth of clam flavor that you don’t get in the usual clam pizza. Plus, the cream sauce bubbles and caramelizes in the oven, adding even more complexity and a richness that we cut with a touch of chili and a generous handful of fresh parsley. It’s a magical combination that developed an immediate following as soon as we put it on the menu. Former New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni waxed poetic about this pizza, and it was so popular back in the early days of the restaurant that if we had a busy night, we’d sometimes run out. And when that happened, a few folks would be truly heartbroken. There’s one guest who never fails to order it, referring to the pizza with a female pronoun, claiming that he’s “never cheated on her.” Her fans are a committed group. | F R ANNY’S | You’ll notice that the clam pizza is a bit more labor-intensive than the other pizzas, but none of the steps is hard. And the results are so worth it. MAKES FOUR 12-INCH PIZZAS, SERVING 4 TO 6 Franny’s Pizza Dough (page 61) 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1⁄2 Spanish onion, cut into chunks 4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 11⁄4 cups dry white wine 41⁄2 dozen littleneck clams (about 6 pounds), scrubbed well 11⁄2 cups heavy cream All-purpose flour Chili flakes 1⁄2 cup chopped parsley Preheat the oven to 500°F, with a pizza stone on a rack in the top third of the oven. Let heat for 1 hour. Remove the pizza dough from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before baking. thick, syrupy glaze, about 10 minutes. Add the cream, bring to a simmer, and simmer until the mixture is reduced by a quarter, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl and set aside to cool. It thickens as it cools. While the oven heats, place 1⁄4 cup oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until it is limp, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 7 minutes, until golden-edged. Add the wine, and bring to a simmer. Add the clams, cover the pot, and cook until the clams start to open, about 10 minutes. As they open, use tongs to transfer them to a large bowl. When all the clams are cooked, simmer the liquid in the pot until it reduces to a Meanwhile, when the clams are cool, pluck out the meat and discard the shells. Turn a large baking sheet upside down, or use a pizza peel. Dust the surface with flour. Form one piece of the dough into a 12-inch round (see page 62) and set it on the baking sheet or peel Working quickly, paint the entire surface of the 201 Rigatoni with Spicy Salami and Tomato An alternative to a traditional pasta amatriciana (spicy tomato sauce made with cured pork guanciale), this soul-satisfying dish was born thanks to a test batch of salami that we made for Bklyn Larder. Somehow we’d gotten the chili proportions off and while it wasn’t spicy enough to sell as sopressata, it was too spicy to sell as regular salami. So Andrew sliced the salami up, crisped it in a pan, and added our house tomato sauce and plenty of olive oil and cheese. It’s a simple dish with lusty, soul-satisfying flavors, bolstered with lots of chili. 8 ounces spicy sopressata, casings removed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1⁄2 teaspoon chili flakes 2 cups Basic Tomato Sauce (page 50) 1 pound rigatoni 1⁄4 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus more for serving Cut the sopressata into batons about 2 inches long and 1⁄4 inch thick. In a large pot of well-salted boiling water, cook the pasta according to the package instructions until 2 minutes shy of al dente; drain. In a very large skillet (or a Dutch oven; see page 110 for tips), warm the olive oil over mediumhigh heat. Add the sopressata and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has crisped and rendered some of its fat. Add the chili flakes and cook for 30 seconds, then add the tomato sauce and cook over high heat until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat. Toss the rigatoni into the skillet with the sopressata and tomato mixture and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is al dente and the sauce has reduced and clings to the pasta, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the Pecorino cheese, then add a few tablespoons of water if the sauce seems dry. Divide the pasta among four individual serving plates or bowls and finish each with a sprinkling of Pecorino and a drizzle of olive oil. 65 | PAS TA | SERVES 4 Marinated Artichokes When we serve this dish at Franny’s, it literally flies off the menu. Someone only has to see it on a nearby table to want it for themselves. Artichokes are so extraordinary that eating them feels like a special occasion. But there’s no reason not to make them yourself at home—we do, often and for as long as the season lasts. Yes, trimming them can be a little time-consuming, but there is nothing like the sweet, umami flavor of a fresh artichoke. This is a brighter take on the usual marinated artichokes you see on antipasti plates. Most storebought marinated artichokes are pretty mediocre. But here the sweet thistle’s flavor is rounded out with classic Italian ingredients: wine, lemon, chili, and garlic. Tossed with fresh parsley and mint these artichokes are complex, pungent, and addictive. SERVES 4 TO 6 Juice of 2 lemons 4 medium artichokes FOR TH E MAR I NAD E teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper 1⁄4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest Juice of 1 lemon 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1⁄4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped mint 1⁄4 | F R ANNY’S | 1⁄4 FOR TH E COOKI NG LIQU I D cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 garlic cloves, halved 5 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley 1⁄2 teaspoon chili flakes 2 cups dry white wine 3 cups water 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1⁄2 To prepare the artichokes: Fill a large bowl with cold water and add the lemon juice. As you trim the artichokes, dip them occasionally into the lemon water to prevent browning. Pull off and discard the outer leaves of each artichoke until you reach the pale green leaves at the center. Using a paring knife, trim away the dark green skin from the base. Slice off the very tip of the stem: you will see a pale green core in the stem, surrounded by a layer of darker green; use a paring knife to trim away as much of the dark green layer as possible; the white part of the stem is as tasty as the heart. Slice off the top third of the artichoke at the place where the dark green tops fade to pale green. Using a teaspoon (a serrated grapefruit spoon is perfect for this task), scoop out the hairy choke in the center of the artichoke, pulling out any pointed purple leaves with your fingers as well. The center of the artichoke should be completely clean. Drop the artichoke into the lemon water. To prepare the cooking liquid: In a large saucepan, warm the oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the parsley and chili flakes and cook for 30 seconds more. Pour in the wine, bring to a boil, and cook for 1 minute. Pour in the water and add the salt. Add the artichokes (the liquid should almost but not quite cover them; if necessary, add more water). Bring to a simmer, then cover and simmer over medium-low heat until the artichokes are tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Check for tenderness 96 FRANNY’S Few meals can compete with this famed Brooklyn restaurant’s rustic Southern Italian dishes, simply prepared with a few carefully chosen, high-quality ingredients: pastured meats, seasonal produce, well-crafted cheeses, pastas, and other staples. At long last, chef Andrew Feinberg has brought his techniques and cutting-edge ingredient combinations to the home kitchen. The result is a stellar collection of more than 200 recipes—a tome filled with irresistible pizzas, vegetables bursting with flavor, gratifying pastas, earthy salumi, and so much more. TO BE PUBLISHED IN JUNE 2013 SPECIFICATIONS Allison McGeehon 212-614-7705 [email protected] 100 color photographs 384 pages, 8" x 10½" Paper-over-board $35.00 ISBN 978-1-57965-464-1 No. 85464 COOKING MARKETING & PUBLICITY TO ORDER The copy in this brochure is not final. Please contact the publicist before running any image or excerpt. PRESS CONTACT • National feature coverage in food and lifestyle publications • 10-city author tour • Promotional video Phone 1-800-722-7202 Fax 1-800-521-1832 A division of Workman Publishing, Inc. 225 Varick Street New York, NY 10014-4381 artisanbooks.com Photographs by John von Pamer Printed in China