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ARCHERY ARM GUARD
Pattern & Instructions
This document was prepared with in mind that it was intended for people having already at least the basics in
leather work, not for totally newbie. However this arm guard is not that difficult to make, but the included pattern
has to be modify to fit perfectly the user’s forearm according to his or her measurements. This will be anyway less
tricky than to start from scratch, what I did for mine with only one free arm - lucky you!
Important note about the pattern
It is included here (on the digital file) in two versions: One is a 50% reduction, the other, added at the end of this
document, is a full size one. To work with, it has to be printed full size either on a single large sheet of paper - most
blue print shops and copy centers now accept PDF documents on USB drives, or on several sheets taped together.
In the latest case follow your printer instructions to achieve a full size print without margins on four A3 standard
sheets (poster function found on most home printers usually does the job.) American friends will have to manage
with their specific paper sheet sizes and their imperial system, which I have to say was a nightmare for me when I
lived and worked in the Philippines; sorry guys. Of course do not tick the «Adjust to page» box; Unless your Barbie
doll or your Teddy Bear wants to practice archery! You can use the holes for the lace as print references, which I
have numbered for this purpose, and I have also added standard print references (a cross and a circle placed on both
axis of each A3 page, these ones being separated by red lines) to help when overlapping sheets.
How to modify the pattern
Firstly, measure the circumference of the wrist and the circumference of the forearm 50mm (2’’) below the elbow
bone of the user (your customer or yourself), the length of the forearm between the wrist bone and the elbow bone
minus 50mm, and the circumference of the hand palm between the base of the thumb and the root of the fingers
(palm readers can refer to the Head and Success lines.)
Compare these measurements with those of the pattern attached to check what are the necessary reductions or enlargements - probably less often the case for the latest, being tall and having large manual worker’s hands. Proceed
then to the required modifications before cutting out the print.
Note that the attached full size pattern added at the end of this documents is a vector drawing. For whoever has a
software like Adobe Illustrator (and the necessary skills to use it!) the page can be imported and then modified first
on a new layer, before printing, directly on a computer. This is why this file is not protected, what allows extracting
pages and copying illustrations and photos - and what also «allows» pirates.
EL
OR
G
IN
LIN LAP
F
EF
NG P
RI RLA
E
12
AL
AR
FERENC
E OF TH
MINUS
12 MM (1 E WRIST
/2")
BOW
REIN STRING
F
R
(OPT ORCEM UBBING
ENT
IONA
PA
L
IN BE RUBBER TCH
TWE
PAD
EN)
CIRCUM
E AND THE
SEWING OF THE OUTSID
PS HERE
STO
ER
ETH
TOG
ING
LIN
SPACE
E
FRE
THE
VE
LEA
TO
BETWEEN
TO INSERT THE LACE
1
2
3
INCHES
HOOK OR LOOP
0
RING
WARNING: SCALE 1/2 PATTERN
ZOOM COPIER/PRINTER TO 200% AND
CONTROL YOUR PRINT WITH THIS:
COMES HERE
E LINING)
SION OF TH
N
FLAP (EXTE
FOLD ZONE
12
HOOK OR LOOP
11
10
9
8
EEN
7
TW
E
B
P
A
6
G
4")
5
4
(1/2" TO 3/
2
TO 20 MM
REMAIN
CHED A 12 SITE EDGES MUST
TA
AT
N
E
O
WH
P
P
O
O
THE TW
COMES HERE
1
B
UM
TH OLE
H
N
OF
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T HE
TW
E
H
B
AND M
THU
EASURED
MB A
OT
RO
ND TH
E FINGERS
M
TH
E
EFT
CI
RC
UM
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E
SID
NG
RI INE
E
R SL
UA HI
SQ N T
R O
"O S
"D ME
CO
OV
CIRCU
MFE
FOREA RENCE OF T
HE UP
RM MIN
PE
US 12
MM (1/2 R
")
1
BO LEN
G
W
BO TH O
NE
F
MIN THE
2
US FO
50 REA
MM RM
4
(2"
) A BETW
5
ND
TH EEN
6
E W TH
RIS E
TH
ES
7
TB
EP
ON
WI ART
E
8
TH
S
TH ARE
9
EO
UT FIRS
10
ER T S
PA EW
OU
RT
11
N
T
CENTIMETERS
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
ARCHERY ARM GUARD PATTERN
Designed by Fred Moreau
How to control the modified pattern
The best way to make a temporary 3D pattern, which of course cannot be cut out of cardboard or whatever stiff and
more or less thick material you usually use for patterns, is to use a soft yet firm enough (understand not elastic)
material. While regular canvass has to be avoided, truck tarpaulin (cover made of plastic coated cloth) meets these
requirements.
With a marker trace on the tarpaulin the outlines of the paper pattern of the outside part (the one without the flap),
cut it out and try it. It can be held in position with pieces of tape while you check how it fits and what modifications have yet to be ameliorated. If it is for yourself, ask your mate, friend, neighbor or pet to stick the tape, cause
Doctor Richard Kimble seeks after you - I mean you are close to be a one-armed person, what is far to be practical,
believe me.
Note that when attached to the arm a 12 to 20mm (1/2‘‘ to 3/4‘‘) gap should remain between both edges: This is
the allowance securing a good tightening of the lace, and even if the user becomes a bit slimmer the arm guard will
still fit. Of course this gap left with the tarpaulin is not necessarily the one you will obtain with leather because it
also depends on the thickness of the leather you use. Try with a strap of the same leather at the level of a reference
point, the wrist or/and the upper forearm, to control by how long the leather seems to «shrink» when wrapped.
Note also that the length of the strap turned down on itself around the buckle that insures the closure on the hand
depends on the circumference of this one: check that it matches the distance between the buckle emplacement and
the middle of the fold zone of the strap - both are indicated on the pattern - and if needed move this zone and reduce
the width of the whole palm part. Use a soft sewer tape measure and follow the line drawn on the pattern.
Check also if the hole for the thumb is convenient: Use waste pieces of leather that you punch and proceed with
trials.
A few words about the making of
What follows complete the various photos, which should already speak by themselves.
* Overview
The arm guard is made of two main parts sewn together. I used for mine soft leather for the outside, although a
bit too thick for this use. Deerskin or equivalent in terms of qualities would probably be the best. The inner part,
or lining, in direct contact with the arm and hand ends with a flap. Keep in mind that the skin, and especially the
sweat, is quite acid and can damage a type of leather that is not appropriate for this use. Moreover the leather used
could stain the skin if not specifically tanned for this purpose, or it can also provoke an allergy - think about all
the chemical stuff used during the tanning process (some leathers produced in Bangladesh exceed by far the acceptable norm of Chrome 6, known to be cancerous. In France a recent study has shown that 46% of some shoes
taken by random in various shops revealed after tests a too high level of released Chrome 6.)
* Flaps
The lace flap is an extension of the lining, which should be consequently not too thin. It is intended to prevent a
direct contact between the closing lace and the skin, thus the lace cannot pinch it when lacing the guard or when
moving. To leave the required space between both parts to insert the lace, the lining is not sewn with the outside
part up to the edge. The stitch stops before the lace holes.
The palm hand strap flap is for preventing a direct contact of the buckle with the skin (once more think about allergy issues, especially with metal buckles). It is also an extension of the lining.
* Closure of the hand
I used hook and loop (scratch), more practical and precise I think compared to a regular buckle. The hook or loop
piece sewn on the strap end stops before the extremity in order to leave a free space to pinch easily the strap end
when removing the arm guard. Although I used a D ring in metal, a rectangular ring, metal or strong plastic, can
be used.
* Bow string rub reinforcement patch
The edge of this oval part, on which the string of the bow will rub from time to time when released, needs absolutely
to be well bevelled all around to nearly zero. If not it will create a step on which the bow string can be quite deviated
if it hits it - don’t shoot your mother-in-law by accident (unless this is your secret wish!)
This patch can be, like mine, lightly padded with micro cellular rubber or latex foam not exceeding 3mm (1/8‘‘) in
thickness, but in such a case it is advisable to bevel it as well. Personally I use my joiner’s disc sander with a 50
grit disc to do the job. I simply stick the piece of rubber with double side tape on a piece of wood cut out the same
shape to hold it easily (and to protect my finger tips.) It is more practical than to bevel with a head knife or whatever
cutting tool, rubber foam being a weird material when it is about shaping, and the result is much better.
* Lace holes reinforcement
Of course you do not have to stick on the design of the one represented. Design your own to customize your arm
guard. Just keep in mind that it has to remain on the edges to serve its main purpose: To act as a reinforcement
part for the lace holes - avoid eyelets. More thickness you add around the guard and more it becomes stiff and hard
to fit, therefore its width should not exceed the one shown here.
You can reduce the number of holes - I did really a bunch!, and although my arm guard is indeed well held, it is
not that practical. To lace it from the wrist to the upper forearm is also advisable as when lacing downward the
arm guard has the natural tendency to slip down because of the slightly conical shape of the forearm (I know, the
photo below represents the exact opposite - sorry, too lazy to start over taking new photos.)
* Sewing both parts
I used a near century old hand-cranked Singer sewing machine (which died since then, having badly fallen in the
staircase - I swear I didn’t push it! the handle of the wooden case broke) but the parts can also be hand sewn using
saddler’s stitch. The lace holes reinforcement parts have first to be sewn on the outside part. The buckle has also to
be assembled on the outside. For the string rub patch it is preferable to sew it after the outside and the lining are
assembled together because it contributes to maintain them firmly. Neoprene glue is not needed if well sewn, and
moreover it would certainly add stiffness to the whole, nevertheless it can be of help for the hand closure strap, a
narrow part that could easily move when sewing, and from place to place (just spots - not necessarily Neoprene as
long as the glue employed remains elastic) to achieve the same purpose, maintaining both parts well together.
Feedback
Having worked as a technical trainer for several years I always took great pride to produce educational material
and practical and understandable illustrated handbooks - with a dash of humour when possible as you probably
noticed (this is known to favour learning, ask any «serious» teacher to confirm.) My first reward (because NGO’s
pay volunteers peanuts - they don’t go abroad for the buck anyway) was the satisfaction of my trainees, therefore
feedbacks would be much appreciated. It took me several hours to prepare this document in a language that is not
my mother tongue, although I write directly in English since long (no version needed from a first drop in French,
what saves a lot of time, although some remaining mistakes can be met for which I hope you will excuse me.)
Lastly, be aware that I am not a professional leather worker - fully self-taught - but a Marine Joiner, therefore comments from professionals are also welcomed if they can contribute to an enhanced revised version of this document.
Thanks to all in anticipation and feel free to give away this document to whoever may have some use of it.
February 1st 2013
Fred Moreau
8 Rue du Tilleul
56540 St TUGDUAL
Brittany (Bretagne), FRANCE
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.crafts-design.com
DON’T MISS WHAT’S NEXT TO COME:
SADDLER’S CLAMPS
(marketing project - don’t dream, what I do is not always free - but if your are interested in a professional quality
tool, not a gadget made with three bits of plywood and a wing nut worth $15 - but sometimes sold up to more than
ten times this amount, keep an eye on forums or drop me directly a line. Brochure in English is under process at
this date and should be soon posted, first on Leatherworker.net.)
EL
2
IMPORTANT TIP:
DE
FO
RA
LEF
12
TA
RM
FERENC
E OF TH
MINUS
E WRIS
12 MM (
T
1/2")
BOW
REIN STRING
F
R
(OPT ORCEM UBBING
EN
IONA
L RU T PATC
H
BB
IN BE
TWE ER PAD
EN)
MB
U
TH OLE
H
CIRCUM
CIRCU
MFE
FOREA RENCE OF T
HE UP
RM MIN
PER
US 12
MM (1/
2")
TSI
G
IN
LIN LAP
F
OU
NG P
R I R LA
E
OV
THIS DRAWING IS A VECTORS ONE. IF THIS PDF
PAGE IS IMPORTED IN A SOFTWARE LIKE ADOBE
ILLUSTRATOR (IF YOU HAVE THE SKILLS TO USE IT)
IT CAN BE MODIFIED BEFORE PRINTING
NG E
I
R
E LIN
R
S
UA THI
Q
S
R ON
O
S
"
"D ME
CO
EN
CE
EN
OF
E
W
THE
TH
ET
HAND
ET
B
D
MEASURE
HUM
OT
B AN
O
R
D THE
FINGERS
1
BO LEN
G
W
BO TH O
NE
F
MIN THE
US FO
50 REA
MM RM
4
(2"
) A BETW
5
ND
EE
T
H
6
E W N TH
RIS E
TH
ES
7
TB
EP
ON
WI ART
E
8
TH
SA
TH
9
E O RE F
UT IRS
10
ER T S
PA EW
RT
11
N
CI
RC
UM
FE
R
DE AND THE
SEWING OF THE OUTSI
PS HERE
LINING TOGETHER STO
ACE
TO LEAVE THE FREE SP
BETWEEN
TO INSERT THE LACE
0
1
1
2
2
3
4
5
3
6
7
INCHES
CENTIMETERS
HOOK OR LOOP
0
RING
Sheet size: 600 x 420 mm (23.6" x 16.5")
Printable on four A3 standard sheets
WARNING: SCALE 1 PATTERN
CONTROL YOUR PRINT WITH THIS:
HOOK OR LOOP
FLAP (EXT
COMES HERE
ING)
F THE LIN
O
N
IO
S
N
E
FOLD ZONE
12
COMES HERE
1
11
10
9
8
N
7
P BETWEE
A
6
G
)
"
/4
3
5
O
4
MM (1/2" T
IN
0
2
2
O
T
2
1
UST REMA
DA
M
E
S
H
E
C
G
A
D
T
T
E
WHEN A
OPPOSITE
THE TWO
ARCHERY ARM GUARD PATTERN
Designed by Fred Moreau