great southern Regional profile Great Southern Photograph: Frances Andrijich Its potential was spotted a decade before that of more famous neighbour Margaret River. But only now is this wine region – Australia’s largest – being appreciated for its diversity of varieties, climates and soils, as well as its focus on single-vineyard wines. Sarah Ahmed takes a trip to the wild west Does size always count? If biggest were best, Australia’s largest wine-growing area, Great Southern, would be much better known than its famous sibling Margaret River, which is just an eighth of its size. However, historically, ‘to be serious and recognised in wine in Western Australia in the 1990s, you needed something in Margaret River’, says Jeff Burch of Howard Park. This, together with Great Southern’s ‘more marginal vintage conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon’, explains why this top producer also makes wine in Margaret River. Leading light Larry Cherubino (Larry Cherubino Wines) laments that Great Southern ‘has been responsible for a lot of Western Australia’s success, but has never been able to leverage its ability to produce some of the best fruit in the state’. Which seems a shame when its ‘very promising potential’ was first spotted by Dr Harold Olmo, visiting professor of viticulture from the University of California, in 1955 – a full decade before Dr John Gladstones’ report did the same for Margaret River. But then Great Southern is Western Australia’s wild west. Even more sparsely populated in the 1950s and still focused on farming and forestry, the region’s first vineyard was not planted until 1965; its first commercial wine, made by Plantagenet, emerged in 1975. However, 60 years after Olmo highlighted Great Southern’s suitability for ‘high-quality light table wines’, and 40 years after the region’s first commercial bottling, Western Australia’s coolest wine region is edging into the limelight. The gifts of nature which supported his conclusion are unchanged: the towering karri forests and lush green pasture which point to good winter rainfall; moderately fertile soils; and, where it borders the chilly Southern Ocean, a temperate climate cool enough to promote slow maturity of the fruit. The vogue for cool-climate styles has certainly boosted listings for Great Southern’s elegant wines. But for Burch, this boost is also due to more ‘small producers focused on quality, recognising the benefits of the region’s climate and different terroirs and collectively making a bigger noise’. Second-generation producer Hunter Smith (Frankland Estate) agrees, and attributes the growth trend to ‘smaller individuals [who] are picking good sites and working in small ways’ as well as a fall in global demand for ‘cheaper, cheerful Oz wine’. This softening demand has also resulted in a quality- ➢ Larry Cherubino’s Riversdale vineyard in Frankland River, home to some of Great Southern’s finest Cabernets as well as the Laissez Faire Fiano Photograph: Ken Martin Perth 1 WESTERN AUSTRALIA WINE REGIONS 1 Swan District 2 Perth Hills 3 Peel 4 Geographie 5 Margaret River 6 Blackwood Valley 7 Manjimup 8 Pemberton 2 3 Bunbury 4 6 Above left: the Howard Park winery – the label is one of many under Burch Family Wines, Australia’s largest family-run wine producer Above right: Hunter Smith of Frankland Estate Coral Sea Indian Ocean Cairns AUSTRALIA WESTERN SOUTH AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIA Perth Sydney Adelaide Albany and Denmark best suit whites and lighter reds, especially Pinot Noir. The drier Albany Sub-regions inland sub-regions of Frankland River, Denmark 1 Frankland River Mount Barker and Porongurup have warmer 2 Mount Barker 3 Porongurup days but much colder nights; whites and 4 Denmark GREAT 5 Albany reds are structured and intense. Flatter, Frankland SOUTHERN warmer and drier than Mount Barker or 1 Porongurup, Frankland River hosts some of 2 3 the region’s most powerful reds, notably Mt Barker Houghton’s Jack Mann Cabernet Sauvignon Porongurup from the Justin Vineyard. But, as Smith N points out, Great Southern ‘is very site 4 5 Denmark specific’. He should know; Frankland Estate Walpole Albany makes some of Australia’s best Rieslings (look 50 0 100 out for our panel tasting in the May issue). Other wine regions kilometres Bone-dry Rieslings – more austere than their South Australian counterparts – have focused vineyard rationalisation – ‘a lot was consistently excelled across Great Southern. Now planted in the 1990s and a lot has been removed that top sites escape the blenders’ melting pot, and grafted this decade’, says Cherubino. Frankland Estate’s terroir-driven, single-site Rieslings have company, especially from Single-vineyard focus Porongurup’s uniquely elevated, granitic outcrop. Cherubino, who was previously at Houghton, and Also on the rise, more textural, often off-dry Rieslings Tony Davies of Snake & Herring (and ex-Howard are naturally fermented and lees-aged in old wood. Park) exemplify this trend. Having made wine for Deviating even further from the region’s classic bigger players, they have a bird’s-eye view of the lean style, La Violetta’s Das Sakrileg Riesling features a dash of Gewurztraminer. region and the inside track on its most glittering In Denmark, a new breed of flinty, funky grapes. As for grower/producers, with ‘fruit salad Chablis-inspired, early-picked Chardonnays like planting’ on the wane, new boutique wineries such Castelli’s Il Liris and Singlefile’s The Vivienne offer as Oakcliffe and Singlefile look beyond their own a point of difference from Margaret River’s muscular vineyards – even sub-regions – to secure the best wines. Naturally high in acidity, these are grapes from the best sites for their single-vineyard ‘Chardonnays for Riesling lovers’, says Castelli ranges. This terroir-driven approach has influenced winemaker Mike Garland, who sees ‘huge potential’ larger players too. Plantagenet’s Cath Oates has ‘focused on the absolute best, in smaller quantities’, for sparkling wines. Chardonnays from ➢ while at Howard Park, 10 years of research went into locating its Mount Barrow vineyard. With its large footprint (16,712km2 over five sub-regions) and diverse terroir, Great Southern’s repertoire extends beyond Margaret River’s core red and white Bordeaux and Chardonnay grapes, also encompassing Riesling, Shiraz and Pinot Noir. With higher rainfall, cloud cover and sea breezes, the relatively marginal coastal sub-regions of 5 8 50 GREAT SOUTHERN GREAT SOUTHERN 100 kilometres River 0 7 Franklan d Sub-regions Albany, Denmark, Frankland River, Mount Barker, Porongurup Area under vine 2,487 hectares (2012) Soils gravelly/sandy iron-rich laterites (Marri loams) and Karri loams derived from gneissic or weathered granite rock Main grapes Reds (62%) Shiraz (618ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (525ha), Merlot (112ha), Cabernet Franc (69ha), Pinot Noir (68ha) Whites (38%) Chardonnay (365ha), Sauvignon Blanc (324ha), Riesling (177ha), Semillon (141ha) Number of wineries about 70 Annual production 13,840 tonnes crushed (2012) or 15,000 cases, depending on size Perth Indian Ocean Great Southern at a glance ‘40 years after the first commercial bottling, Western Australia’s coolest wine region is edging into the limelight’ D E C A N T E R • A p r i l 2015 | 63 Great southern Porongurup and Howard Park’s neighbouring Mount Barrow vineyard in eastern Mount Barker similarly have great natural acid line. Photographs: Castelli Estate; Frances Andrijich; Nic Duncan Hands-off winemaking Denmark, Porongurup and Mount Barrow are making great strides with intense, savoury styles of Pinot Noir. For Burgundy’s Pascal Marchand who, with Jeff Burch, makes the Marchand & Burch label, grapes were chosen from Porongurup and eastern Mount Barker ‘because the acidity was finer, the altitude of the sites gave us the cool temperature needed, there was vine age and slower ripening’. Although second-generation winemaker Rob Diletti of Castle Rock has led the charge in Porongurup (and for Riesling) with old-vine clonal material, newer Burgundy clones are enhancing Great Southern’s offer. Referring to his 2004 Mount Barrow plantings (five Chardonnay and six Pinot Noir clones), Burch says, ‘I only wished I started 25 years ago.’ Mount Barker and Frankland have long been known for savoury, medium-bodied Shiraz, but a shift towards earlier picking and less extractive Pinot Noir winemaking (whole bunch, older, ➢ Winemaker Mike Garland of Castelli Estate in Denmark Six producers to watch La Violetta Frankland Estate The Das Sakrileg (‘Sacrilege’) Riesling sums up the maverick behind this garagiste label with no vineyards or winery. Winemaker Andrew Hoadley subverts Australia’s technocratic tradition of highly protective winemaking. Textural, spicy, mineral, sappily fruited wines reveal clever use of skin contact, oxidative handling, wild ferment and solids. Shiraz especially sings. Vineyard sourcing for his eclectic, idiosyncratic range is impeccable. Inspired by visits to France, including two vintages working at Bordeaux’s Château Senejac, sheep farmers Barrie Smith and Judi Cullam established Frankland Estate in 1988. A site-specific approach swiftly put their single-vineyard Rieslings on the map. Organic and biodynamic viticulture and minimal intervention in the winery have further amplified terroir expression and freshness for the estate which puts the finesse into Frankland River. Mediumbodied, perfumed reds (especially the Shiraz- and Cabernet Franc-dominated Olmo’s Reward) are finely honed. Burch Family Wines Western Australia’s largest family-owned and operated wine producer. A huge, very polished range (more than 80 wines) includes popular brand MadFish and upmarket, 90% estate grown, terroir-driven labels Howard Park and Marchand & Burch. The partnership with Burgundy’s Pascal Marchand produces among the region’s best Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Larry Cherubino Since going his own way in 2005 following stints for Hardys and Houghton, Cherubino has been instrumental in raising Great Southern’s profile. Screaming provenance, Cherubino’s accomplished, very extensive five-tier range abounds with sub-regional and single-vineyard wines. Though focused on classic regional strengths (Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignons and Porongurup Rieslings especially), the Laissez Faire Fiano nods to Cherubino’s Italian heritage. Plantagenet Larry Cherubino 6 4 | A p r i l 2015 • D E C A N T E R Though sizeable (60,000 cases including the second Omrah label), Great Southern’s first winery (1974) started out in a humble apple-packing shed. Deploying Mount Barker’s oldest vineyards to great effect Plantagenet (Bouverie, 1968 and Wyjup, 1971), it has an enviable track record for ageworthy Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling. Recently returned to Western Australia via New Zealand, Cath Oates’ lighter touch with oak enhances the range’s cool-climate credentials, as does the all-new Juxtapose range which includes an off-dry, textural Riesling. Snake & Herring Established in 2010, rising stars Tony Davis (Snake) and Redmond Sweeney (Herring) take ‘a very scalpel approach to the vineyards and sourcing small parcels – a few rows even – for small volume wines’, says Davis. Good-value, sub-regionally differentiated expressions of the same grape have great drinkability. From the state’s latest-picked grapes, The Distance Higher Ground Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates that, in the right spot, Porongurup can make finely-honed Cabernet Sauvignon. Great southern larger format oak) has reinforced their floral, spicy cool-climate credentials. Albany’s mild, humid climate is generally ill-suited to Shiraz. However, from the Porongurup Range National Park’s eastern end, 30-year-old vines on Kalgan River vineyard’s leanest ironstone gravels lend a distinctively bloody tang to Willoughby Park’s brooding Kalgan Ironrock Shiraz. For later ripener Cabernet Sauvignon, a dramatic reduction in winter rainfall and consistently warmer temperatures have improved its lot compared with 10 years ago, says Oates. Still, says Burch, ‘site is super critical’, as are low-yielding old vines and the Houghton clone; it’s rare for Howard Park’s multi-regional flagship Abercrombie Cabernet to be dominated by Great Southern fruit as it was in 2010. Distinguishing it from its Margaret River blending partner, Burch notes ‘Our Cabernets have more lifted perfume, finer and more savoury fruit than the comparatively sweet fruit of Margaret River and lithe, sometimes sinewy, tannins.’ Where Cherubino feels ‘Great Southern’s quality, diversity and value are just starting to be well understood’, the surge in single-vineyard wines certainly bears out his observation that ‘perhaps it has more to offer than any other region because of it size, varied climates and soils’. What’s more, the trend fits with Olmo’s vision of wines ‘of the highest possible quality’ which he foresaw would be ‘so unique that imitation by other winegrowing districts is impossible’. D Above: Frankland Estate’s 30ha Isolation Ridge vineyard, planted in 1988, surrounds the winery and is organically farmed Sarah Ahmed is a freelance wine writer who specialises in the wines of Australia and Portugal Ahmed’s top 10 to try from Great Southern Frankland Estate, Netley Road Riesling, Frankland River 2012 19/20 (96/100) £21 Berry Bros & Rudd, Woodwinters A 1966-planted ironstone ridge accounts for the gravelly minerality of this aromatic, crisp, apple and citrus bone dry Riesling. Leesageing lends richness and weight. Drink 2015-2025 Alcohol 11% Plantagenet, Museum Release, Riesling, Mount Barker 2006 17 (90) £17.99 Hawkshead Wines, Liberty Wines, Mainly from the 1979-planted Dennis vineyard in Mount Barker. Great cedar, blueberry and cassis lift and concentration with savoury balsamic notes. Sinewy tannins and firm acidity give poise. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 14% Frankland Estate, Olmo’s Reward, Frankland River 2010 18 (93) £29 (2007) Deeside Drinks, Woodwinters A fragrant Cabernet Franc-dominated Bordeaux blend with fine tannins, great delicacy and finesse to its floral and cigar box-scented red and blackcurrant fruit. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 14% Prohibition Wine, Slurp Though developing honey and petrol notes, with great mineral acid drive, its lime and lemon fruit remains well-focused. Very pure; bone dry. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 12.5% Snake & Herring, High & Dry Riesling, Porongurup 2013 17 (90) £15.99 Marks & Spencer Late ripening 20-year-old vines produce great flavour intensity. Bone dry, floral and mineral, with lingering, ripe citrus and juicy greengage fruit. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 12.5% Howard Park, Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 18.5 (95) £43-£45 Exel Wines, Fine & Rare, Great Western Wine, Olde World Wines 66 | A p r i l 2015 • D E C A N T E R Harewood Estate, F Block Pinot Noir, Denmark 2013 18 (93) POA Eurowines Fine, intense and structured with forest floor undertones to its pretty red fruits and delicious mineral acidity; Burgundy clones. Drink 2015-2020 Alc 13.5% La Violetta, La Ciorna Shiraz 2008 18 (93) £28.80 Bottle Apostle Kalgan River vineyard old-vine Shiraz with a dash of Viognier. Cornas-like inky blackberry and currant with savoury, peppery tannins and a bloody, ironstone tang. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 14% Larry Cherubino, Ad Hoc Cruel Mistress Pinot Noir 2013 17.5 (91) £14.96-£15.95 Hawkshead Wines, Slurp, Wine Direct Complex with freshly dug beetroot and forest floor nuances to its supple milk chocolate-laced black cherry and plum fruit. Long, with fine tannins and lingering, mineral acidity. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 13.5% La Violetta, Up Shiraz, Mount Barker 2013 17.5 (91) N/A UK www.laviolettawines.com.au Whole bunch ferment brings black pepper and floral lift to this single-vineyard Shiraz’s fresh blackcurrant fruit. Chalky tannins and fresh acidity emphasise frame and elegance. Drink 2015-2018 Alc 13.6% Marchand & Burch, Mount Barrow Pinot Noir, Mount Barker 2013 17.5 (91) £17.50-£19.50 Field & Fawcett, Vin Cognito Silky, violet-scented red cherry, five spice, cedar and fine tannins make for a sensual Pinot with long forest floor and mushroom notes. Drink 2015-2017 Alc 13.5% For full details of UK stockists, see p115
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