1. pets
2. dogs

From the editors of
Keeping
Your Dog
Flea Free
Safely Getting Rid
of Fleas
You don’t have to resort
to chemical warfare to
fight against fleas.
By Nancy Kerns
Every dog owner knows that getting rid of fleas
can be one of the biggest challenges of dogkeeping. Few people know, however, that the
process can also be the most damaging to their
dog’s health. Specifically, the use of insecticides
on the dog and all around the dog’s environment
can cause nerve and liver damage, impair the
immune system, and even cause cancer. And
you have to wonder – if these effects have been
noted in dogs, what effects do all these toxins
have on the people who live with the dogs?
It’s a real problem, because if you have fleas
in your home, you have to do something. They
can make your dog (and you and your family)
miserable through their tiny but painful bites,
as well as the allergic reactions that many people
and dogs develop to flea saliva. They are prolific,
producing thousands of eggs during their threeto four-month life-span. In ideal conditions the
cycle takes just two weeks, from egg-laying to
larvae to pupae to hatched fleas capable of
laying eggs of their own.
The chemical approach to flea control can
involve use of a panoply of toxic powders,
shampoos, sprays, bombs, dips, and collars.
Not incidentally, its probably the casual use and
mixing of several of these products that can pose
the biggest challenge to the dog’s health, as his
body strives to deal with his exposure to several
different types of toxins.
Toxic families
There are a few major types of chemicals most
widely used in the war on fleas.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 2
Organophosphates,
most of which are
readily absorbed
through skin, eyes,
stomach, and lungs,
are among the
most common pet
insecticides and
are responsible for
the majority of pet
poisonings. Initially,
overexposure can
result in salivation,
involuntary
defecation,
urination, and
vomiting. This can
progress to ataxia
(lack of balance),
convulsions,
teary eyes, slow
heartbeat, and
labored breathing.
It’s easier to rid your house of fleas if
your dog never leaves his yard, and
no other dogs or cats come to visit.
But if you take your dog to the park,
to training classes, or to your friends’
homes, you’re bound to bring fleas
home. That’s why your natural fleafighting project must be year-round.
Carbamates are the second-most common
compound in flea-control products. The effects
of exposure to carbamates are generally less
severe than organophosphates, and carbamates
do not accumulate in the tissues. Dogs who are
overexposed to carbamates will exhibit many
of the same symptoms of poisoning as the
organophosphate-poisoned dogs. Long-term,
the chemicals can cause lowered production of
bone marrow and degeneration of the brain.
Organochlorines, a third major class of
insecticides, are not as immediately toxic as the
first two, but do accumulate in the tissues and
persist in the environment for years. (DDT, an
organochlorine, was banned in 1972 but is still
found in 55 percent of Americans.) Poisoning with
this chemical may stimulate the dog to exhibit
exaggerated responses to light, touch, and sound.
Spasms or tremors can progress to seizures and
death. Yet another class of flea-killing chemicals,
pyrethrins, are often labeled as “natural,” due to
the source of the poison: the chrysanthemum
flower. But despite their origins, pyrethrins are
still potentially dangerous, and have caused
allergic dermatitis as well as systemic allergic
www.whole-dog-journal.com
reactions, vomiting, headaches and other nervous
system disturbances.
fur and trap them. The comb is then dipped in
warm soapy water to remove and kill the fleas.
How toxic are these pesticides?
An estimated 20,000 people receive emergency
care annually for actual or suspected pesticide
poisoning, and approximately 10 percent of
these are admitted to the hospital. Each year,
20-40 people die of acute pesticide poisoning in
the U.S. Also in the United States, most episodes
of acute occupational poisoning are due to
organophosphate and carbamate insecticide
exposure. And there’s no telling how many
animals succumb to pesticide poisoning.
Since fleas spend only a portion of their time on
the dog, and eggs, larvae and pupae, are likely to
be found in any area where the dog lives, most of
your flea-eradication efforts should concentrate
on your home and yard. This may not be welcome
news, but the safest way to get rid of fleas is
through fastidious housekeeping.
Each of the chemicals mentioned above are
intended to kill fleas via direct contact. In recent
years, the focus of development of flea-killing
chemicals has been on substances that affect only
the fleas that actually bite a treated dog. These
substances, which are either applied to or fed to
a dog, are intended to linger in the dog’s body
without affecting his own chemistry, waiting to
deliver a fatal blow to any flea that drinks his
blood. While these chemicals are proving to be far
less harmful than the older flea-killing substances,
and conventional veterinarians enthusiastically
encourage their use, many holistic
practitioners are less enthusiastic
about the drugs.
Natural flea control
Fortunately, there are many
natural, effective methods
of controlling fleas widely
recommended by both
conventional and holistic
veterinarians. The most successful
approach will utilize several indoor
and outdoor methods. A pesticidefree battle takes a little more
time to win than one that utilizes
deadly foggers and shampoos, but
it has the advantage of not killing
your dog. Regular flea-combing
is the most direct and low-tech
method, and it works as a good
flea-population monitor, too. Pet
supply stores sell the fine-toothed
combs that pull fleas through the
The length of the flea’s life depends on
environmental conditions, but it can live out its
entire cycle in as little as three weeks or as much
as six months. Female fleas are prolific, laying
as many as 20 to 50 eggs per day for as much as
three months. Development of the larvae that
hatch out of the eggs takes place off the dog,
usually on or near the dog’s bedding and resting
areas. Concentrating your efforts on removing the
opportunities for the eggs to develop is the most
effective population control strategies.
One way to remove the eggs’ opportunities to
develop is to remove the eggs, and to this end, your
vacuum will be one of your most valuable tools in
the flea war. Vacuum all the areas that your pet
uses frequently, at least every two
to three days. Since fleas locate
their hosts by tracing the vibration
caused by footsteps, vacuuming
the most highly-trafficked
hallways and paths in your house
will be rewarding. Don’t forget
to vacuum underneath cushions
on the couches or chairs your dog
sleeps on. Change vacuum bags
frequently, and seal the bag’s
contents safely in a plastic bag
before disposing. Some people
place flea collars in their vacuum
bags, to kill any fleas or flea larvae
they vacuum up; this is probably
the safest application for the toxic
plastics.
Strongly scented herbal sprays or
powders are supposed to repel
fleas, but are not very effective
when used all by themselves.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 3
The dirt on dust
Some people use diatomaceous
earth (also known as DE or
Diatom Dust), a non-toxic powder
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more commonly used in swimming pool filters
and as a garden soil amendment (the latter kind
is the form used against fleas). The powder acts
as a powerful desiccant on the waxy coating that
covers fleas, technically dehydrating them to
death. It also kills flea larvae. DE can be sprinkled
onto carpets and swept across wood floors (so it
works into the cracks in the wood).
A couple of cautions: because it consists of tiny,
hard particles, it can contribute significantly to
wearing down your carpets, and some carpet
manufacturers’ warranties won’t insure the
carpet if you use a desiccant powder. Also, neither
you nor your dog should inhale the powder, which
can physically (rather than chemically) damage
the lungs. Use a dust respirator when applying.
There are a number of powders and sprays
that utilize pungent herbs or essential oils
intended to drive fleas away. Eucalyptus is a
common ingredient, as is peppermint. But unless
these products are used in an overwhelming
concentration, or in combination with other
remedies, they are unlikely to be effective.
nor the larvae can survive very long in direct
sunlight. It’s unnecessary, then, to worry about
the lion’s share of the landscaping or lawn areas
around your house. At least once a week, wash
down the areas your dog uses for sleeping
and resting.
Other safe tools you can use in the outdoor flea
war are beneficial nematodes, tiny creatures
that seek out and kill fleas. Several companies
raise and sell the nematodes, which are strictly
insectivorous and cannot harm humans, pets,
plants, or the beneficial earthworms in your
garden. Application of the nematodes is simple.
About one million nematodes come packaged
on a small sponge pad, about 2-3 inches square.
The sponge is soaked in about a gallon of water,
and then the water is sprayed over the area to be
treated. The nematodes should be distributed at
night or on a cloudy day, since they die if exposed
to direct sunlight. They also work best in a moist
environment, so watering the yard well for several
weeks after application helps them do their job
most efficiently.
If your dog habitually sleeps in one or two areas,
or has a bed, cover those spots with a towel or a
small, washable blanket. Immersion in water kills
both eggs and developing flea larvae, so wash the
bedding every other day or so. Some people keep
two or three sets of towels for bedding so the
dog’s favorite spot is always covered – keeping the
trap set constantly, as it were, for flea eggs.
Wash uncarpeted floors at least once a week.
Wood floors are especially important to wash
well, since the larvae tend to burrow into cracks in
the wood. Similarly, steam cleaners (used without
chemicals) can kill flea eggs and larvae present in
short carpets. You probably couldn’t (or wouldn’t
want to) get thick rugs wet enough to kill the
eggs, however.
Taking the war outside
Outdoors, it’s easier to use water to your
advantage. Most dogs pick out a couple of spots
in shady or protected areas where they spend
most of their time in your yard. Fleas, too, like
these shady spots; in fact, neither the adult fleas
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 4
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Should you get with the “Program”?
When the newest generation of flea-fighting chemicals arrived
on the scene, veterinarians and dog owners rejoiced. Researchers had finally developed products that could be administered
quickly, safely, and easily, and that didn’t need to be reapplied
every few days. Toxic baths, dips, sprays, collars, and powders
could be thrown out.
Taking their place were two types of products. One was a
type of chemical called an insect growth regulator, or, in layman’s
terms, “flea birth control.” The
most successful of these was
lufenuron, marketed as “Program,”
was introduced by Ciba-Geigy
Corporation of Greensboro, North
Carolina, in 1992. Program is administered to dogs orally, in the
form of a tablet, once a month. Ingested by female fleas, and deposited in her eggs, the drug interferes
with the development of the eggs
so they cannot hatch.
The biggest benefit of the drug is obvious:
neither the dog nor its keepers are exposed to
any toxic chemicals, and the life cycle of the
flea is ended. But because the drug doesn’t kill
adult fleas, a dog could be bitten again and again
by the adults in his environment before they died of old age!
And any new fleas that came on the scene via other dogs, or
trips to infested areas, could also plague the dog.
A little goes a long way
•
The other revolutionary new products are externally applied fatsoluble products. Only a small amount of the liquid is used, but
it is wildly toxic to fleas. The fluid dissolves in the oils of the
dog’s skin, and spread in a micro-thin coating over his body.
Depending on the dog, the chemicals are effective for 30 to 90
days. The first chemical is called fipronil, and is marketed under the name “Frontline” by Rhone Merieux. The second is
imidacloprid, marketed by Bayer Corporation as “Advantage.”
The makers of both products claim that the chemicals are not
absorbed into the bloodstream and internal organs.
Most conventional veterinarians are avid promoters of the
drugs. The perspective of Joan Freed, DVM, a traditional practitioner and veterinary chief of staff for the Humane Society of
Santa Clara Valley, in Santa Clara, California, is typical of most
conventional veterinarians. She applauds the use of Frontline
and Advantage, especially because they rendered the older generation of highly toxic chemicals commonly used for flea control obsolete.
“The new products are revolutionizing veterinary medicine,”
Freed says. “So much of veterinary treatment is flea-related –
from deworming for tapeworms to treating the endless cases of
flea allergy dermatitis. Advantage and Frontline appear to be
highly effective, and very safe.”
(It must be said that all three drugs are available only through
veterinarians, and are typically marked up in price by as much
as 200 percent or more. This in itself can lend impetus to veterinary enthusiasm.)
8|JUNE 1998
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 5
Holistic practitioners take exception
The excitement about the chemicals is not common in the holistic veterinary community, however. When queried, WDJ found
the majority of veterinary practitioners who use alternative and
natural modalities don’t advocate the use of Advantage and
Frontline, though the veterinarians were evenly split on the topic
of Program.
“Advantage and Frontline are convenience pesticides, and
everybody likes them because they don’t have to mess around
with a lot of other things,” says Ihor Basko, a holistic veterinarian from Kapaa, Hawaii. “But the chemicals are not as safe as
they are made to seem. I’ve seen several dogs react to them,
and some of my clients’ cats have died after using them. Just
read the label – it can cause eye irritation, it says not to get it on
your skin or clothing, to wash your hands after handling it – and
yet they say it’s safe for your pet!”
Fewer problems with Program
Dr. Basko is one of the practitioners who has
no issues with Program, saying he hasn’t seen
any adverse effects from its use.
Dr. Christina Chambreau, of Baltimore,
Maryland, is not among
Program’s fans but admits she
would use it on an animal long
before she would resort to Advantage or Frontline.
“I’ve heard of and seen
some pretty severe problems
with all of them,” says the veterinary homeopath. “On several
occasions, via email, I’ve asked
a list of about 15 holistic veterinarians whether they have
seen problems with these compounds, and the answer is always, ‘Yes.’”
Even Chambreau has to admit that the substances are highly
effective at ridding a dog and his home of fleas, and admits that
she would never say they should never be used. “A lot of dogs
are not bothered by these drugs, just like a lot of animals are not
bothered by vaccines,” she says. “But those that are bothered
can have horrible reactions.”
If a dog’s only health problem was a flea allergy, chances
are you’d improve his situation by using the substances,
Chambreau says. But you’d be taking an unnecessary risk if
you were to use them on a dog who had demonstrated sensitivity to other chemicals, or one that had cancer, autoimmune problems, or liver problems.
“You have to take something like this on a case by case basis,” says Dr. Chambreau. “Even though the makers say it doesn’t
go through the liver, I’ve seen dogs with liver problems after
being treated with it. So I’d try all the natural flea control methods first. If they all failed to diminish the flea problem, and the
dog was fairly healthy otherwise, then I might be tempted to
use Advantage or Frontline as a one-time deal, to try to break
the fleas’ life cycle in that home. And I must say I would use
them before using their toxic predecessors.”
www.whole-dog-journal.com
Eliminate Fleas
Without Poisons
Integrated Pest
Management is a
nontoxic way to
effectively control fleas.
by Kathleen Dudley
Today, spot-on flea products are advertised
in every sort of media available to animal
guardians and veterinarians, and are touted
as safe and effective. The safety record of these
products is not as spotless as the manufacturers
would make us believe. After all, they contain
pesticides, which are poisons, and they also
contain toxic ingredients that are not disclosed
to consumers – or even veterinarians –
without applying through the Freedom of
Information Act.
The danger presented by these products is
apparent in the hundreds of incident reports
that sit in the Environmental Protection Agency’s
files – not to mention the manufacturer’s own
animal laboratory studies. These logs indicate
hundreds of deaths and illnesses of cats and
dogs who have been treated with these products
by their guardians and veterinarians.
Veterinarians have even reported their own
systemic reactions to the products.
In spite of this documentation, some of the
manufacturers continue to claim that their
products cause no internal or external health
effects to animals or people. They even go so far
as to assert that the products are not absorbed
into the skin of the animal or human; this is not
true, according to studies by the Environmental
Protection Agency.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 6
A vacuum is a dog’s best friend – especially if it
has a corner or crevice attachment that allows
you to vacuum any cracks in the floor, which
harbor flea larvae and pupae.
YOU HAVE OPTIONS
Fortunately, we have safe alternatives – effective,
nontoxic methods to keep our companion
animals and households free from fleas and their
irritating and sometimes debilitating impacts.
The safest and most effective way to eliminate
fleas utilizes an approach called “integrated pest
management” (IPM).
IPM is an ecosystem-based strategy that focuses
on long-term prevention of pests. Pest control
materials are selected and applied in a manner
that minimizes risks to human and animal
health, beneficial and non-target organisms, and
the environment.
The first step in any IPM program is to learn
everything we can about the target, in this case,
the flea. Who is the flea, and what are his habits?
With this knowledge, we can implement an
effective, nontoxic approach – and the knowledge
that everyone in our household and surrounding
environment is safe from the ravages of pesticides.
ALL ABOUT FLEAS
Ctenocephalides felix, the “cat flea,” is what we
find in greatest numbers on our dogs and in our
homes; they represent 85 to 95 percent of all
household fleas found in North America.
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But Pulex irritans, the “human flea,” and
Ctenocephalides canis, the “dog flea,” can also
be found. Their bites can cause varying degrees
of problems in our dogs, including an allergic
skin reaction known as “flea allergy dermatitis,”
tapeworm, and in severe cases, even anemia.
Some dogs may host a small population of fleas
for years without exhibiting problems; others
may suffer a single flea bite that triggers a major
allergic reaction. In most homes, it is often the
dog’s scratching and chewing himself that leads
his guardians into some form of flea control.
The flea progresses through four life stages: egg,
larva, pupa, and adult. The time span, choice
of place to inhabit, and climate conditions are
relevant to each stage of development.
The average life span of a flea is about six weeks,
but under certain conditions they can live as long
as a year. While in the adult stage, the flea lives
on our dog’s skin, and even lays its eggs there.
However, the eggs laid by the females (up to 200600 eggs in her lifetime) fall off and hatch in the
environment, not on the animal.
When these eggs hatch, the emerging larvae feed
on the feces of the adult fleas, which makes our
dog’s bedding an ideal place for this development
to take place. The larvae are worm­like, and
burrow down into any available dark, protected
areas, including cracks in flooring, or underneath
furniture cushions; outdoors, they migrate to
areas underneath leaf piles, decks, or porches.
After a week or two of feeding, the larva spins a
cocoon where it can maintain a pupal state until
an external stimulus triggers it to hatch into the
adult – sometimes upward of 140 days. While in
the cocoon state, the flea pupa is protected from
insecticides and other external threats.
Stimuli that initiate the emergence from the
cocoon can include heat, vibration (a vacuum
cleaner is a great trick tool!), moisture, physical
pressure, and carbon dioxide – essentially anything
that indicates a warm-blooded host is available.
Larvae turn into pupae, and new adults emerge.
It’s been estimated that at any given time, only
about 1 percent of a population of fleas is in the
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 7
adult stage. About 14 percent are in the pupal
stage, 35 percent are in the larval stage, and 50
percent are in the egg stage. Focusing flea control
efforts – especially, resorting to chemical poisons
– on only this tiny minority of the flea population
(the adults) just doesn’t make sense. That’s why
IPM techniques work so well: They target every
aspect of the flea population.
Fleas prefer temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees and
humidity of 75 to 85 percent. Individuals living at
high elevations (above 5,000 feet) and in climates
where freezing can occur year-round are at the
lowest risk of flea problems. In cold weather (40
degrees or below), adult fleas die and the other
stages lie dormant. In temperate climates, where
winters rarely bring freezing temperatures,
fleas may be active all year long. A flea program
that is effective in temperate climates will be
dependable anywhere.
START WITH THE DOG
In order to control a flea infestation with IPM
techniques, it is necessary to treat not only
your dog, but also the indoor and outdoor
environments surrounding your dog. In discussing
all of these, we’ll start at the center: The dog.
• Improve the dog’s health. “The most
important measure you can take for flea
control is similar to that with any illness, and
that is to strengthen the overall health of the
animal,” states Don Hamilton, DVM, author of
Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs: Small Doses
for Small Animals. “In general, given the same
environment, healthier animals suffer less from
fleas. It all comes back to good food, lots of love,
and minimal stress.” Dr. Hamilton prescribes a
human grade food, preferably a raw meat diet
for dogs, along with supplements, a clean indoor
air environment, and no vaccinations. Carolann
Mancuso, one of Dr. Hamilton’s clients living
near Tampa, Florida, has used this protocol for
keeping her dog family healthy and flea-free for
over a decade.
A healthy dog is less likely to be the target for
fleas. Fleas seem to know which dogs are ill in a
household. If you are not already feeding a raw
meat, homemade diet or human-grade food,
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this is the time to shift gears. A healthy immune
system will make your dog less tasty to a flea.
Consult a holistic veterinarian to help boost
the health of your dog’s immune system. Some
complementary therapies that are useful include
acupuncture, Chinese herbs, homeopathy, and
nutritional therapy.
• Use supplements. There are numerous dietary
additives reputed to be helpful in repelling fleas.
Unfortunately, their effectiveness varies from dog
to dog. Some people have found the following
remedies to be effective for their dogs. If, after
giving your dog any of these supplements for
a month, you see no improvement in the flea
population, consult your holistic veterinarian for
further direction.
Garlic: One clove per day of crushed organic garlic
for a large dog, half for a medium-sized dog, and
a quarter for a small dog. Or, use a capsule of
cold-pressed garlic oil; adjust the canine dosage
from the human dosage on the label (assuming a
150 pound human dose).
Vitamin B complex (with vitamin B1): Use a plantsource vitamin B complex, and again, adjust the
dose for your dog’s weight. Some people simply
add brewers yeast to the dog’s diet for its vitamin
B1. Note: Some dogs are allergic to brewers yeast.
• Some people have success with natural
topical preparations. Again, the results vary
widely. What works well for some dogs may
not work at all for others. Desist if these
suggestions do not work within three to
four weeks.
adults. While repelling adult fleas will help a fleaallergic dog, it should never be your only focus.
• Combining the dog daily with a flea comb
will help you determine the effectiveness of your
efforts. Comb around the dog’s tail, stomach,
and face, where they tend to collect in greater
quantities. Look for fleas, as well as flea eggs (tiny
white specks) and flea feces (slightly larger black
specks). Drop anything you find into a glass of
water; it will drown the eggs and fleas. Flea feces
is comprised largely of your dog’s blood, and will
turn the water reddish brown, confirming the
presence of fleas even if no adults are found.
• During the height of infestation, bathe your
dog weekly with a noninsecticidal soap; reduce
this frequency as the flea problem diminishes,
because over-frequent bathing can dry out the
skin. Rinsing the dog completely to remove all
soap will help prevent drying the dog’s skin,
as will increasing the essential fatty acids in
the dog’s diet. For dogs who are being bathed
frequently, using a nonscented hypoallergenic
shampoo, such as Logona Free Shampoo and
Shower Gel (800-648-6654), will be less irritating
to their skin.
• Keep your dog confined to areas of the house
that are easy to manage when a flea problem
exists (close off basements or extra bedrooms).
OUTDOOR ENVIRONMENT
Outdoor flea populations can be controlled
quickly and easily. Again, the focus here is on the
99 percent of the flea population: the nonadult
stages of the flea.
Essential oils of cedar, tea tree, citronella,
lavender, eucalyptus, and pennyroyal (the last two
are toxic to cats): Mix 10 drops of certified organic
essential oil to one tablespoon of olive oil. Spray
on your dog as a repellent.
A lemon rinse: Steep a cut-up lemon or two
in a quart of boiling water and allow to cool.
Use liquid as a rinse or sponge onto the coat.
Remember that topical preparations – whether
safe, natural remedies or poisonous chemicals –
target only 1 percent of the flea population, the
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 8
Regular inspection of the dog with flea combs
will help you monitor the flea population.
www.whole-dog-journal.com
• Keep grass cut short, and rake leaves to prevent
piles where flea eggs, larvae, and pupae can harbor.
• Apply a mixture of water and food-grade
diatomaceous earth (DE) – a calcium dust ground
from single-cell, ocean organisms – to your lawns,
walkways and planting beds (anywhere your dog
frequents). In wet, humid climates, apply every
other month; in drier climates, you can apply this
less frequently.
This application works as an abrasive and
desiccant, physically drying out and destroying
the adult fleas’ breathing organs as well as
drying out and killing flea larvae. This process
is inexpensive, and the flea cannot develop
resistance to DE. Use a mask whenever handling
DE; the dust can irritate the lungs.
• Flood with a garden hose any outdoor areas
where dogs hang out; this will drown adult fleas,
and kill flea larvae, pupae, and eggs.
• Beneficial nematodes are tiny worms that
kill flea larvae and pupae by feeding on them.
They can be purchased from progressive garden
supply stores and catalogs and spread around
the garden. Nematodes work especially well in
warm, humid climates.
INDOOR ENVIRONMENT
Indoor environment control is relatively simple,
and like your outdoor control efforts, should focus
on the largest part of the flea population – the
nonadult stages.
• Wash floors frequently. Flea eggs, larvae, and
pupae are attracted to cracks and joints in floors.
• Remove area rugs during the flea season.
If you are considering a remodel or new
construction, choose alternatives to wall-towall carpeting, such as cork, wood, ceramic, or
linoleum (not vinyl) flooring.
• Vacuum carpeting daily during most intense
infestation, cutting back to once or twice a week
when it is under control. Seal the vacuum bag
each time and put it in a freezer to kill the fleas
before reusing.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 9
• Wash your dog’s bedding at least once a week
in hot water and a mild detergent, vinegar, or
hydrogen peroxide (a whitening agent).
• Hire a professional to steam clean your
carpeting, furniture, and dog bedding. Use only
hot water in the steam cleaning – no additives.
Steam kills adult fleas and larvae and stimulates
flea eggs to hatch. Vacuum daily within two
days after the steam cleaning treatment to
capture the newly hatched fleas. Be thorough;
move all furniture and vacuum underneath and
in all corners. Bathe your dog right after steam
cleaning.
• A light trap attracts and kills adult fleas. Most
traps employ light to attract fleas, and either
adhesive material or water to trap and kill the
adult fleas that arrive. You can also make your
own trap with sticky tape or a pan of soapy water
beneath a hanging light bulb.
SMALL, SMALL DANGER
So far, all the indoor approaches we discussed are
nontoxic. The methods we’ll discuss next have
some toxic properties. However, properly used,
these are very safe – far safer than pesticides.
• There are several chemically inert desiccant
dusts, including diatomaceous earth (DE), that
can be applied to your carpeting to effectively kill
fleas in all their life stages. Use only food grade
(natural) DE – avoid swimming pool grade. Use
care when applying; keep animals out of the
rooms being treated. Dusts can cause breathing
problems in humans and animals and exacerbate
asthmatic conditions. Do not use if any household
members have asthmatic or upper respiratory
conditions. Wear a mask when handling and
apply close to the carpet surface (avoid creating
airborne dust).
Apply at the beginning of your flea season, and
keep crawling children and animals out of those
rooms. A day after application, vacuum well to
remove the residual.
• There are several boron-based compounds
that can be used to kill fleas, including
(unscented) Twenty Mule Team Borax (available in
www.whole-dog-journal.com
grocery stores) or boric acid powder (available in
most garden centers; use only products that are
100 percent boric acid). Flea Busters /Rx For Fleas
can be hired to apply sodium polyborate (100
percent active ingredient) to your carpets about
every eight months. The Mancusos find that this
works effectively in their household.
Tests indicate that boron has some toxicity when
applied to broken skin.
TINCTURE OF TIME
Sometimes the answer to our problem is very
simple, but takes the one thing we seem to
struggle with daily – time. Time to understand
the full impacts of the flea product you are
considering using, and time to create a healthy
environment for your dog during the flea season,
and year-round.
It does take more time for an IPM program to
work than it would if you used pesticides. But it
is important to understand that pesticide use
can be dangerous to your family’s health. In her
book Designer Poisons – about the dangers of
pesticides – Dr. Marion Moses minces no words:
“When we share metabolic or neuro pathways
with insects, we are impacted by these chemicals.
The difference is only in amount – just because it
doesn’t kill humans or animals doesn’t mean it is
not having damaging health effects.”
Natural Herbs for
Flea Relief
This nourishing herb
can relieve your dog’s
spring and summer
allergies.
By Gregory L. Tilford
Summertime – a season of outdoor fun, warm
nights, plenty of sunshine, and fleas.
Although they prefer a warm, humid climate,
fleas can thrive virtually anywhere, even places
where they seemingly have nothing to eat. When
food (like your dog) is not available, fleas will
feed upon the bodies of each other as they lay in
wait for a larger meal, nestled within the ground
covers, carpets, and cracks they call home.
These tough, relentless survivors spend most of
their time in the environment, not on the actual
host – which is exactly why so many conventional
anti-flea treatments don’t work well in the long
term. Most conventional approaches to flea
control involve killing the tiny ectoparasites
where they feed – on the dog. However,
many people remain unaware of the possible
downsides of using chemical insecticides on their
pets. After all, these are products that are freely
offered over-the-counter at pet stores, grooming
salons, and across the front desks of veterinary
clinics – they must be safe, right?
Unfortunately, they are not as safe as one might
think. How could they be? After all, we are
talking about chemicals powerful enough to kill
an ancient, highly adaptable parasite that has
survived, and will continue to survive, beyond the
extinction of thousands of host species.
Many of the most widely used commercial flea
killers on the market are very effective poisons
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 10www.whole-dog-journal.com
with long-term effects that remain unknown or
are seldom discussed. This includes many of the
popular anti-flea remedies that are absorbed
through an animal’s skin. These products are toxic
enough to require manufacturing employees
to be outfitted with respirators and protective
clothing. Warnings against skin contact are
printed right on the labels, based from caution
that is derived from animal testing – yet millions
of people feel comfortable with allowing these
chemicals to course through a dog’s body and
impregnate every inch of their dog’s skin.
Other conventional approaches to providing
dogs with some relief from flea bites include
medicated shampoos, corticoid ointments,
or corticosteroid therapies. The problem is,
Prednisone and other corticosteroid drugs
don’t just suppress uncomfortable itching and
inflammation, they suppress the immune system
as well. Add to this the possible long-term side
effects of water retention, hypertension, liver
damage, thyroid dysfunction, obesity, and heart
attack, and suddenly the corticosteroid option
doesn’t sound so kind.
The whole dog approach
When approached from a holistic perspective,
long-term flea control does not begin with
insecticide flea sprays, dips, or shampoos. It
begins only after the caregiver reaches an
understanding of how fleas live, behave, and how
they select their hosts. From this perspective we
can see that it is the effects of fleas, and not their
existence, that cause so much misery to our dogs
– the fleas themselves are only a single symptom
of deep-seated and complex health problem.
To clarify, let’s take a look at what I call the “Flea
vs. Host Dog” scenario.
Dogs have been host to fleas, as well as thousands
of other parasites, for millions of years. Certainly,
like all cross-species relationships, nature maintains
certain checks and balances that allow parasites
and their hosts to coexist in symbiotic harmony.
But in the case of fleas and domesticated canines,
we keep seeing the same scenario repeat itself:
Host Dog is completely tormented by fleas while
his canine companion, although in the same
house, seems relatively trouble-free. Why? Because
the natural countermeasures that exist between
Flea and Host Dog are no longer working. The
parasite-host relationship is out of balance.
Flea problems do not actually stem from the
mere presence of fleas, but from health-related
and environmental circumstances that allow
parasites to wreak havoc upon a weakened host.
Like all parasites, fleas are opportunistic, preying
on the easiest meal they can find. While it is true
that dogs with healthy skins and coats are usually
less bothered by fleas than those with flaky, dry
skin and constantly shedding coats, this is only
part of the picture. Deeper toward the root of the
problem are issues involving Host Dog’s immune
system and the way his body reacts to flea bites.
Host Dog is allergic to flea bites, and for reasons
that have little to do with the fleas themselves,
his body system can neither repel nor tolerate
their bites.
Strengthen the host
If your dog’s body is overburdened with problems
of poor digestion, inadequate waste elimination,
over-vaccination, or food allergies, his immune
system’s ability to deal with fleas and their saliva
will be greatly reduced. This is why properly
nourished dogs with well-balanced immune
systems aren’t bothered by the bites of fleas.
In many cases, switching from kibble to a raw or
home-cooked diet will bring a world of positive
change to dogs who suffer from flea allergies.
Changing the type of meat you feed and weeding
out allergens from the diet can bring quick
positive results. Common food allergens include
grains, yeast, soy, and synthetic preservatives.
Supplementing your dog’s diet with a wellbalanced essential fatty acid (EFA) supplement
is also important. In fact, EFAs may be the most
important of all dietary supplements for flea
allergy sufferers. The Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids
contained in fish and vegetable oils play critical
roles in how your companion’s immune system
responds to the introduction of flea saliva and
other antigenic compounds that enter the body.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 11www.whole-dog-journal.com
EFAs are also important in building a strong,
healthy, flea-resistant skin and coat –
making the feeding ground less attractive to
hungry opportunists.
Probiotics (Bifidus, Acidophilus, etc.) and
digestive enzyme supplements are also strongly
indicated for flea sufferers. These two groups of
supplements assist the transport of nutrients
throughout the body and the breakdown and
removal of waste materials that might otherwise
contribute to food-related allergies. Among
the best products I’ve seen is the new Plant
Enzymes & Probiotics Supplement for Dogs &
Cats by Animal Essentials, which combines both
supplements into a concentrated, easy-to-feed
powder. (Note: I have served Animal Essentials as
an independent contractor, but do not receive any
compensation for this product.)
Treat the environment
Remember, fleas spend about 80 percent of their
time not on the host, but in the surrounding
environment. Furthermore, flea eggs can remain
dormant for several months. This means that you
must be relentless at hitting them where they
sleep and reproduce.
There are also several herbal products available
that can be applied to the dog’s bedding, carpet,
or outdoor areas to help repel or even kill fleas.
Look for those that contain oils and/or extracts
of juniper, citronella, eucalyptus, cedar, Canadian
fleabane, or citrus oil (the latter two contain
d-Limonene, which can kill fleas).
Herbal support
A small pinch of garlic powder can be added
to your companion’s food to help support the
immune system, skin, and liver – systems that
work overtime to weed out and eliminate
allergens. However, contrary to what some people
believe, garlic should not be fed in quantities so
great that garlic odor exudes from your dog’s
skin. This is not only an unnecessary waste of
garlic, it can be harmful to your dog, especially
if continued over an extended period. Just use a
pinch of garlic powder – Rover does not need to
smell like a delicatessen to benefit from this herb!
Also, try adding apple cider vinegar to the
animals’ water dish – some people swear
by this, as it may add some nutrients that
help the animal deal with the fleas. Animals
supplemented with B-complex, trace minerals,
and zinc also seem to have fewer problems
with fleas.
Alterative herbs, such as burdock root (Arctium
spp.), Dandelion root (Taraxacum officinale),
or Red Clover (Trifolium pratense) may also be
used to help eliminate waste and allow natural
defense systems to work more freely toward
coping with flea bites. I like using these herbs
in the form of a low-alcohol liquid tincture,
which can be added to the food according to the
manufacturer’s directions, or squirted directly
into the dog’s mouth.
Nettle (Urtica spp.) is one of my favorites for
treating any type of allergy. The dried herb
(easily accessed at the health food store) can
be sprinkled onto your animal’s food to lend
nutritive support. One-half teaspoon of the dried
herb for each cup of food fed is a good amount.
Nettle is also thought to reduce the severity of
an allergic response. If your animal won’t eat
dried nettle, you can steep it in hot water or saltfree meat broth, which is then added to your
companion’s food.
If flea bite allergies are severe, itching is
persistent, and the skin is red and inflamed,
licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) can be used as an
internal anti-inflammatory.
To help relieve itching and promote healing
externally, a calendula flower rinse is a good
choice, as is aloe juice, which can be diluted with
four parts water (e.g., 1 cup aloe juice to 4 parts
water). Dried peppermint or lavender flowers
may also be added to bring relief as well.
To make the rinse, simply brew a strong tea from
the dried herbs of your choice (¼ cup herbs to one
quart of boiling water), let steep until cool, then
pour the cooled liquid into your companion’s
coat. If scratching has left oozing, infected scabs,
yarrow (Achillea spp.), rosemary, or thyme can be
generously added to the rinse formula.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 12www.whole-dog-journal.com
Suitable for bathing
Bathe your dog only with shampoos that are
meant for use on dogs – shampoos for humans
can be too harsh and irritate the skin, and may
add to the allergies that already contribute to
your companion’s misery.
There are many very good herbal dog shampoos
on the market. These can be very useful for
cleaning flea and body waste build-ups from the
skin, and for bringing soothing relief. However,
don’t shampoo your dog too often, as this can dry
out her skin and cause added irritation.
Are “Spot-On” Flea
Killers Safe?
Absolutely not, says our
author, despite what
the commercials say.
by Kathleen Dudley
Overuse can also result in microbial imbalances
on the surface of the body. Your companion’s skin
supports a natural community of interdependent
organisms, many of which serve anti-parasitic or
cleansing purposes. In fact, fleas get their own
type of parasites – tiny mites that crawl beneath
their body armor.
Tempting as it may be to simplistically consider
fleas as horrible insects, the bane of dogs
everywhere, poisoning your dog in a vain attempt
to wipe fleas out of existence doesn’t really make
sense. Even though more than half a billion
dollars annually are spent on products that kill
fleas in that vain pursuit.
Let the flea’s fleas do their job; it’s part of the
grand scheme, and part of dealing with an
ancient, highly adaptable species – on their own
bloodsucking terms!
Of course fleas can make dogs (and everyone else
in the household) perfectly miserable. But it’s not
as if using toxic flea-killing chemicals is the only
way to control fleas. When we attempt to get rid
of our dogs’ fleas by utilizing chemicals that are
toxic to the brain and nervous system, that may
disrupt hormone (endocrine) systems, and that
cause cancer, it’s sort of like burning the house
down to get rid of ants – effective, sure, but what
are you left with?
WHAT YOU CAN DO . . .
Use integrated pest manage-ment
techniques, rather than pesticides, to
control fleas in your environment.
Work to strengthen your dog’s
immune system, to engage his
natural resistance to fleas.
Use gentle herbal supplements and
rinses that help promote your dog’s
healthy skin and coat.
"Spot-on" flea-killers are effective, but thelongterm effects of their constant use is un-known.
In effect, our dogs are test subjects that will
determine their safety.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 13www.whole-dog-journal.com
In the next issue of WDJ, we will describe effective,
nontoxic methods of flea control. No dogs (or any
other members of the household) will get sick
from these methods, and no dogs (or any other
members of the household) will die from them. In
contrast, dogs do get sick and die from the toxic
chemicals we will describe in this article.
New products not safer
All pesticides pose some degree of health risk
to humans and animals. Despite advertising
claims to the contrary, both over-the-counter
and veterinarian-prescribed flea-killing topical
treatments are pesticides that enter our dogs’
internal organs (livers, kidneys), move into their
intestinal tracts, and are eventually eliminated
in their feces and urine. Not only that, but the
humans and other household animals who
closely interact with dogs who have been treated
with these chemicals can be affected by the
toxins. What happens to the health of all exposed
individuals during this systemic absorption and
filtration process varies from animal to animal,
but the laboratory and field trial results clearly
indicate toxicity on the chronic and acute levels.
Until recently, foggers, flea collars, powders,
sprays, shampoos, and dips containing
organophosphates (chlorpyrifos, malathion,
diazinon), pyrethrins, synthetic pyrethroids,
and carbamates, were the cutting-edge
solutions to our flea problems. They were
effective, but unfortunately, they also caused
disease and sometimes death. Given enough
time, most pesticides eventually cause enough
human and animal injuries that they are
identified as hazards and are removed from
the market.
While the newest flea products – so-called
“spot-on” liquids that are applied monthly to
a dog’s skin – are being marketed aggressively
by the manufacturers and veterinarians
and represented as safe alternatives to their
predecessors, the fact is, they are simply newer.
All the “active” ingredients in these spot-on
preparations – imidacloprid, fipronil, permethrin,
methoprene, and pyriproxyfen – have been linked
to serious health effects in laboratory animals
(see chart at end of story).
“The public must recognize that any decision
to use a pesticide, or to otherwise be exposed
to pesticides, is a decision made in ignorance,”
says Eliot Spitzer, Attorney General of the New
York Environmental Protection Bureau. “We do
not know the identity of the chemicals to which
we are exposed. We cannot make informed
individual decisions on the acceptability of those
exposures, a basic element in the maintenance
and protection of our own health.” Spitzer adds,
“The requirements for marketing a new product
fall considerably short of providing safety for our
animal and human families.”
Active and inert ingredients
To fully understand the risks associated with any
of these products, it is important to understand
the various components in a flea product, or any
chemical product that you may buy, for that matter.
Like other chemical products, all flea products
are made up of “active” and “inert” ingredients;
strangely, the actual definitions of those phrases
are very different from what they seem to
connote. In the case of flea-killing chemicals, the
“active” ingredient does, in fact, target and kill
fleas – but some of the “inert” ingredients are
poisons, too.
While the word “inert” suggests benign activity
and even connotes safety in the minds of many
consumers, legally, it simply means added
substances that are not
the registered “active”
ingredient. This is
important because most
people assume that only
the “active” ingredient in
a chemical product is of
concern. Many people feel
comforted by the idea that
a product contains only a
minuscule amount of an
“active” ingredient and
up to 99.9 percent “inert”
ingredients – a typical
formula in many pesticide
products. Actually,
this makeup should
frighten consumers.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 14www.whole-dog-journal.com
Why? Because the Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA, the government agency that
oversees the pesticide industry) requires a
higher (if not high enough) standard of scrutiny
for “active” ingredients; these must undergo a
battery of tests to determine their toxicological
profiles, be registered with the EPA, and be listed
on the product inserts and packaging. In contrast,
“inert” ingredients need not be listed on the
product inserts and packaging and are subject to
much less testing than the “active” ingredients;
“inerts” are generally tested in short-term studies
for acute toxicity only.
The word “inert” implies chemicals that are
somehow inactive. In actuality, many “inert”
ingredients used in pesticides are as toxic,
or more toxic, than the registered “active”
ingredients. For example, naphthalene, one of the
“inerts” in an imidacloprid product, showed clear
evidence of cancer activity through inhalation
(nasal cancers), as well as anemia, liver damage,
cataracts, and skin allergies. An unidentified
“inert” ingredient in the flea product Advantage
was implicated in the death of kittens who
received doses within laboratory tolerances.
Why don’t pesticide manufacturers have to
disclose all the ingredients in their products?
This kettle began brewing in 1949, when the
U.S. Congress passed the Federal Insecticide,
Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA), allowing
manufacturers confidentiality on issues they
claimed would otherwise make them vulnerable
to market competition. “Inert” ingredients, in
other words, became protected by industry as
“trade secrets.” While protecting industry, this
act supersedes the public’s right to know to what
we are being exposed and the health hazards
resulting from these exposures. And without
full disclosure, we are unable to make educated
decisions as to which chemicals we want to avoid.
Laboratory studies
Obviously, products undergo testing in order
to qualify for EPA registration, and presumably,
most of the overt dangers a product can exert are
ameliorated before the product can be marketed.
Scientists use healthy, adult, genetically identical
mammals to test pesticides, and then extrapolate
health information regarding the safety of the
product to domestic animals and human beings.
In the case of flea products, the laboratory tests
are performed on live mice, rats, cats, and dogs.
These toxicological (poison) studies are performed
to establish the LD 50 – the oral dose at which
the product would kill 50 percent of a test
population – and to determine the acute and
chronic effects. Throughout and following the test,
subjects are killed in order to study the specific
system damage (lungs, kidney, etc.). Acute disease
tests, such as nervous system and skin reactions,
can be performed over a relatively short time
period. Most studies are conducted for 3-, 13-, or
52-week intervals, and use exaggerated dosages to
compensate for the short testing periods.
“Because of the short period under which the
studies are conducted, the health effects resulting
from the higher doses of the chemicals are
relevant,” says Dr. Virginia Dobozy of the EPA’s
Pesticide Division. These effects can include headnodding; facial twitching; exaggerated blinking; gag
responses; weight increase of the spleen, thymus,
and adrenal glands; and/or atrophy of the thymus.
Long-term studies, needed to understand the
chronic effects of the pesticides, are few by
comparison. Chronic disease such as cancer,
immune suppression, developmental or
reproductive damage, and DNA damage can take
months or years to manifest.
However, the cumulative effect – potential
damage from continued use of one specific
pesticide product or multiple products over a
dog’s lifetime – is unknown. Also unknown is
the potential for synergistic effects – combined
impacts of chemical exposures from their
home and outdoor environments. Neither
the cumulative nor the synergistic effects of
chemicals in products are required to be tested
by the EPA before a product is made commercially
available. So, our dogs may be more vulnerable
to unknown chemical-related dangers than the
happy commercials would have you believe.
Critics of the pesticide industry claim that
the EPA registers pesticides not on safety, but
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 15www.whole-dog-journal.com
on a cost-benefit basis, balancing health and
environmental concerns against the economic
gain to the manufacturer and the end user of the
product. But even if the pesticide manufacturers
and the EPA are not overly concerned about our
safety, we as consumers and guardians should
be very concerned.
Too good to be true
Today, spot-on flea preparations are considered
by many as the Rolls Royce of flea products, and
sell swiftly in veterinary clinics and pet stores.
Each of the makers of these products claim that
they are safe – safer than ever – and that only
the targeted insects will be affected by the
products’ neurotoxic impacts. The products are
frequently advertised as safe for small children
and adults as well as puppies (over eight weeks)
and geriatric dogs. Do they sound too good to be
true? Well, perhaps they are.
The spot-on flea products fall into four general
categories of insecticides. All have neurotoxic
effects. The first three – imidacloprid (a chloronicotinyl insecticide), fipronil (a phenylprazole
insecticide), and permethrin (a synthetic broad
spectrum pyrethroid insecticide) – all work by
disrupting the nervous system of insects, killing
by contact or ingestion. The fourth type contains
insect growth regulators (IGR), which don’t kill,
but interrupt the flea’s life cycle.
Imidacloprid is the first of its class of insecticides,
and is relatively new on the block; it was
introduced in 1994. Laboratory testing on mice,
dogs, and rats, indicates
that this insecticide
can be neurotoxic to
laboratory animals, causing
incoordination, labored
breathing, thyroid lesions,
reduced birth weights, and
increased frequency of birth
defects.
Fipronil was introduced
in the United States in
1996. It is a neurotoxin
and suspected human
carcinogen. Fipronil can
cause liver toxicity, thyroid lesions (cancer),
damage to the kidneys, increased cholesterol
levels, alterations in thyroid hormones,
incoordination, labored breathing, increased
miscarriages, and smaller offspring.
In a review of the fipronil pet formulations, Dr.
Virginia Dobozy of the EPA’s Pesticide Division
states that “this is a persistent chemical that
has the potential for nervous system and thyroid
toxicity after long term exposure at low dosages.”
Permethrin, a synthetic broad spectrum
pyrethroid insecticide, is suspected to be
an endocrine disrupter and a carcinogenic
insecticide (causing lung cancer and liver
tumors in laboratory animals). Some permethrin
products have additional “active” ingredients in
lesser percentages, and include methoprene, and
pyriproxyfen (described below).
Methoprene and pyriproxyfen are both insect
growth regulators (IGR), which limit the
development of juvenile fleas so they cannot
reproduce. Test results indicate that methoprene
causes enlarged livers and degeneration of parts
of the kidneys.
All of the above active ingredients have induced
responses in laboratory animals that give
cause for alarm. While these new products are
suggested as safer than their predecessors,
they indicate high levels of acute and chronic
poisoning from short-term use.
Method of action
Whether or not it is purposeful, manufacturers
of these spot-on flea products have managed
to convince many veterinarians and animal
guardians that these products are not absorbed
into our dogs’ systems. The companies’ literature
describes in vague and contradictory detail how
the chemicals don’t go beyond the hair follicles
and fat layers of the dogs’ skin.
Take, for example, information published on
Merial’s Web site for Frontline (“How Frontline
Works”). In one place, it clearly states that fipronil
(Frontline’s “active” ingredient) is absorbed into
the skin (“Sebaceous glands provide a natural
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 16www.whole-dog-journal.com
reservoir for Frontline . . .”), but other statements
suggest that fipronil stays there and then leaves
through the same entry point without moving
into any other parts of the dog’s body – an
illogical conclusion.
When the EPA’s Dr. Dobozy reviewed the results
of a fipronil metabolism study, she reported that
“significant amounts of radio-labeled fipronil
were found [not only] in various organs and fat
. . . [but they were also] excreted in the urine
and feces, and were present in other parts of the
body . . . which demonstrated that the chemical is
absorbed systemically.”
Veterinarians and pet owners who pay close
attention can witness evidence that these
products are indeed systemically absorbed. Dr.
Stephen Blake, a San Diego veterinarian, relates
a client’s experience: “We put Advantage on the
backs of our dogs and could smell it on their
breath in a matter of minutes following the
application.” Blake stated that this indication of
immediate absorption did not tally with what
he had been led to believe by reading Bayer’s
literature. He continues to question its safety for
his clients’ animals.
Neurological health effects
Logic tells us that a topical chemical that is not
absorbed into the skin has no chance of causing
neurotoxic effects. Then why do the Material Data
Safety Sheets (MSDSs) for all the permethrincontaining pesticides recommend preventing
their products from having prolonged contact
with the skin? And why do they all state that skin
sensations, such as “numbness and tingling,”
can occur? Schering-Plough’s MSDS makes an
additional statement about its Defend EXspot
Treatment: “can be harmful if absorbed through
the skin and harmful following inhalation,”
causing headaches, dizziness, and nausea.
Bayer does not reveal more than 90 percent of
the ingredients in Advantage, but its MSDS does
warn us to “use a respirator for organic vapors”
in order to avoid “respiratory tract irritation and
other symptoms such as headache or dizziness”
(symptoms of nervous system exposure). Bayer’s
promotional literature for Advantage, however,
states that
“studies prove
that using 20-24
times the dosage
on dogs and cats
does not cause
any internal or
external side
effects,” and that
“. . . switching
to Advantage from another flea control product
poses virtually no risk to your pet.”
Dr. Graham Hines, a veterinarian from the United
Kingdom, treated a four-year-old female German
Shepherd who had two Advantage Top Spot
treatments. He reported that “both times she
became unusually clingy, and would not leave
her guardian’s side, yet paced up and down all
day, very restlessly. These symptoms persisted
for 48 hours before a gradual return to her
normal state.” The neurotoxic effects were clear
to Dr. Hines.
Dr. Blake also finds different results than the
Bayer literature. “We are told that the product
affects only insects’ nervous systems, not
mammals’. Several of my clients told me that they
accidentally got some Advantage on their hands
and when they touched their mouths, their lips
became immediately numb for several hours.
So much for not having an effect on the nervous
system of mammals.”
Acute symptoms of headache, nausea, and
abdominal and lumbar pain are associated
with carbitol, one of the “inert” ingredients in
Frontline. According to the MSDS, carbitol
induced these symptoms in laboratory settings.
Curiously, these potential side effects are not
published in the literature accompanying the
products, nor do many veterinarians know the
dangers. But there are numerous anecdotal
reports from veterinarians in the U.S. and the U.K.
of dogs who were treated with spot-on products
who have displayed signs of neurological damage,
such as depression, lethargy, convulsions,
underactivity, tremors, overactivity, stiffened
limbs, and lameness.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 17www.whole-dog-journal.com
Adverse skin effects
Topical skin irritation is listed on all the MSDSs
of the products reviewed in this article; however,
product literature inserts fail to emphasize the
extreme nature of the problems. They all instruct
the users that their products are for “external use
only,” and to “avoid contact with the skin,” but
only Merial’s product insert appears to suggest
there is some possibility of adverse skin contact
reactions.
Adverse Effects of Ingredients Found in Spot-On Products
INGREDIENT
TYPE
AFFECTED SYSTEM
LABORATORY ANIMAL HEALTH EFFECTS
Fipronil
Active
Carcinogen
Thyroid cancer (possible human carcinogen)
Organ damage
Increased organ weights, altered thyroid hormones
Neurotoxin
(nervous system
damage)
Loss of appetite, underactivity, convulsions, whining, barking, crying
(vocalization), body twitches/tremors, overactivity, salivation, stiffened limbs,
unsteady gait, incoordination, labored breathing
Teratogen
(reproductive damage)
Reduced fertility, decreased litter size and body weights in litters, fetus mortality
Skin problems
Severe moist inflammation, ulcerations, skin sloughing, chemical burn, itching,
hair loss at and beyond the application site
Carcinogen
Yet to be determined; evidence of thyroid lesions in dogs
Organ damage
Liver, kidney, thyroid, heart, lungs, spleen, adrenal, brain, gonads; liver toxicity,
increased organ weights, thyroid lesions, increased cholesterol levels in dogs
Neurotoxin
Incoordination and labored breathing, muscle weakness including muscles
necessary for breathing
Teratogen
Increased miscarriages and smaller offspring
Organ damage
Liver enlargement
Neurotoxin
Headaches, eye and throat irritation, difficulty breathing, confusion, dizziness
and nausea in humans
Carcinogen
Liver and lung tumors (possible human carcinogen)
Organ damage
Kidney enlargement, changes in lung
Neurotoxin
Tremors, incoordination, elevated body temperature, increased aggressive
behavior, learning disruption
Teratogen
Fertility is affected
Autoimmune
Bone marrow changes in laboratory animals
Imidacloprid
Methoprene
Permethrin
Active
Active
Active
Pyriproxyfen
Active
Teratogen
Reduced weight gain, toxicity to pups
Ethanol
Inert
Teratogen
Adverse effects on fetus
Butylhydroxanisole
Inert
Carcinogen
Animal carcinogen (possible human carcinogen)
Butyldydroxytoluene
Inert
Carcinogen
Animal carcinogen (possible human carcinogen)
Carbitol
Inert
Neurotoxin
Headache, depression, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal and lumbar pain
Organ damage
Pathological lesions in brain, lungs, liver menni; possibility of pulmonary edema,
intravascular hemolysis and bone marrow depression
Carcinogen
Not evaluated by EPA for carcinogenic
Polyvinlpyrrolidone
Inert
Sources of the above information include reports from the Environmental Protection Agency; Occupational Safety & Health Administration, US Dept. of Labor; Extoxnet:
Extension Toxicology Network; Journal of Pesticide Reform, Material Safety Data Sheets, Pesticide Action Network North America, and more.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 18www.whole-dog-journal.com
Dr. Dee Blanco, a holistic
Spot-On Pesticides and Their Ingredients
veterinarian practicing in
New Mexico, treated 20
Advantage
Frontline Top Spot
dogs for adverse reactions to
Bayer Corporation, Shawness Mission, KS Merial Limited, Iselin, NJ
(800) 255-6826 or nofleas.com
(800) 660-1842 or frontline.com
Farnam’s flea product. In a
Active
ingred:
9.1%
imidacloprid
Active ingred:
9.7% fipronil
letter to the Farnam regarding
Inert ingred:
90.9% (not disclosed)
Inert ingred:
90.3% (not disclosed)
a client who had used one of
(MSDS indicate inerts include some
(MSDS indicates inerts include ethanol
Farnam’s permethrin-based
solvents)
7.7%, polyvinlpyrrolidone 6.9%,
butylhydroxytoluene 0.3%,
insecticides, Dr. Blanco stated,
Adams
Spot-on
Flea
&
Tick
Control
butlyhydroxanisole 0.3%, and carbitol
“All the dogs (20 out of her 24
Farnam Pet Products, Phoenix, AZ
[diethylene glycol monoethyl ether])
dogs treated with BioSpot )
(602) 285-1660 or farnam.com
(Note: Frontline Plus is essentially the
had pruritus (severe itching
Active ingred: 45.0% permethrin
same as Frontline Top Spot, but with the
of the skin) with bleeding and
Inert ingred:
55.0% (not disclosed)
addition of 8.8% methoprene, an IGR.)
cracking of the skin, various
BioSpot Flea & Tick Control
Zodiac FleaTrol Spot On
degrees of erythema (intense
Farnam Pet Products, Phoenix, AZ
Wellmark International, Schaumburg, IL
redness of the skin), many
(602) 285-1660 or farnam.com
(800) 950-4783 or zodiacpet.com
fluid vesicles (blisters), severe
Active ingred: 45.0% permethrin
Active ingred: 45.0% permethrin
hair loss, and elephantiasis
5.0% pyriproxyfen
3.0% methoprene (IGR)
Inert ingred:
50.0% (not disclosed)
Inert ingred:
52.0% (not disclosed)
(thickening of the skin)
with chronic itching. Many
Defend EXspot Treatment
also showed severe mental
Schering-Plough Animal Health, Union, NJ
depression, lethargy, and
(800) 842-3532 or www.sgp.com/main.html
symptoms concomitant with
Active ingred: 65.0% permethrin
Inert ingred:
35.0% (not disclosed)
aggravated liver toxicity. All
symptoms appeared within
two weeks after applications
of your (BioSpot) product, also a consistent
The MSDS for Bayer’s Advantage tell us that
time-frame for liver toxicity after absorption
“prolonged contact with the skin can cause
through the skin. . . To date, most of the dogs
defatting of the skin due to solvent component
have dramatically improved but a few still
in the products,” to “avoid skin contact,” “to wear
remain symptomatic.”
appropriate gloves when handling the product,”
and to “wash off any contamination.”
Dr. Blanco also stated that one dog died of liver
cancer within three months of this BioSpot
Chronic disease
application, which she says “could have been
Based upon toxicological studies, a dog suffering
exacerbated by the application of BioSpot.”
from liver, kidney, thyroid, adrenal, spleen, lung,
Permethrin is indicated as a possible carcinogen
brain or gonadal conditions could experience
by the EPA, causing liver enlargement and
heightened states of chronic diseases, with the
cancersin laboratory mammals.
potential for development of cancer, when spoton flea preparations are used. Permethrin is
When Dr. Dobozy reviewed the reports from
linked to malignant liver and lung tumors and
fipronil product studies, she found that Frontline
autoimmune system disease, and at very low
“does not adequately describe the severe
levels suppresses the immune system. Thyroid
reactions” reported by veterinarians – sloughing,
lesions have developed in laboratory studies in
“chemical burn” conditions, and extensively
dogs during imidacloprid tests. Further studies
affected areas well beyond the application site.
are necessary to understand the possibilities
When these incidents were reported, Merial
of malignancy. Thyroid cancer has been linked
recommended bathing the dogs. That’s strange,
to fipronil, according to the EPA. The data from
because their literature indicates the product
the metabolism and chronic toxicity studies for
remains effective after bathing.
fipronil indicate that “ . . . this is a persistent
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 19www.whole-dog-journal.com
Learning to Read the Label
Note that cats are at a special risk of
being poisoned by this product, even
if they simply have “close physical
contact” with treated dogs.
Don’t just “consult your
veterinarian.” We would suggest
NEVER using on
“debilitated, aged, medicated,
pregnant or nursing” dogs.
US EPA “Signal Word”
This is the product maker. If
your dog displays any problems
following application, report this to
the maker. Pesticide manufacturers
are required by federal law to forward
reports of product injuries to the
EPA.
When researching
a chemical, use the
EPA Registered
Number.
chemical and has the potential for nervous
system and thyroid toxicity after long-term
exposure at low levels,” according to Dr. Dobozy.
In the Journal of Pesticide Reform, author Caroline
Cox cites studies that show thyroid sensitivity
to imidacloprid can result in thyroid lesions, as
well as increased incidences of miscarriages,
mutagenic (DNA damage) abnormalities, and
abnormal skeletons in animal studies. In addition,
one metabolite (breakdown of the chemical into
new chemical compounds during the metabolism
process in the body) of imidacloprid appears to be
far more toxic to mammals than the imidacloprid
itself.
General risk factors
Of course, not all dogs exhibit immediately
noticeable symptoms when dosed with a
commercial spot-on flea product. Adult animals
and those in the peak of health are less likely
to show immediate signs compared to animals
that are young, old, or suffering from chronic
disease. Animals with a heightened sensitivity to
List of “active”
(known) and “inert”
(who knows what?)
ingredients.
chemicals or with exposures from
multiple sources such as a flea
collar; other dips, sprays, dust, or
flea bombs; yard pesticides; and
house termite extermination,
are most likely to react. The
cumulative and synergistic
impacts of pesticides can take a
heavy toll on animals.
Dr. Jerry Blondell, of the US EPA
Office of Pesticides, has indicated
clearly “not to use pesticides on
the old, the sick, or the young.”
While some of the literature
for the spot-on products does
discourage this usage, many dog
guardians and veterinarians
overlook or disregard these
written precautions.
Although the number of dogs
reported to react to these
products may seem small, this
does not suggest the overall
impact is small. First, spot-on
products are relatively new, and many problems
are cumulative.
Second, reactivity to chemicals in a population
is similar to other population statistics and is
represented by a bell-shaped curve. In other
words, at one end of the spectrum are sensitive
individuals, and at the opposite end are resistant
individuals; these groups are relatively small
compared to the vast middle group, who show
varying degrees of susceptibility – but who are
all susceptible. Thus the sensitive group – dogs
who have displayed signs of toxicity – happen to
be the sentinels for the younger, healthier ones
who will eventually be affected; it’s just a matter
of time.
Safe alternatives
Integrated pest management (IPM) is a
nontoxic approach used to eradicate any insect
infestation. Simply, it is a way of thinking
about how to preserve the quality of life on this
planet and within the earth’s stratosphere – of
understanding not only the damages of the
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 20www.whole-dog-journal.com
pesticide to all species and the environment,
but also understanding the consequences of
insect resistance to the constant parade of new,
more sophisticated, and perhaps more toxic
pesticide formulas. The IPM process was initially
designed to safeguard all species, including the
environment, from the ravages of pesticides.
In the next issue, we will present a complete
indoor and outdoor IPM treatment program for
effective, non-poisonous flea control.
Best Flea Control
Methods - Electric
Flea Traps Don't
Work
“Electric flea traps”
that use light as bait
are ineffective for
flea control.
by Nancy Kerns
On page six and thirteen are two excellent
articles about flea control by Kathleen Dudley.
One (“Are Spot-On Flea Killers Safe?”) discusses
the potential dangers of using pesticides. The
other (“Eliminate Fleas Without Poisons,”) gives
readers numerous non- and low-toxic tools
they could use to control flea populations in
their homes. This article mentions, quite briefly,
something called a “light trap,” which is supposed
to attract and trap fleas.
I decided to test light traps a few months ago,
when warm spring temperatures seemed to
cause a resurgence of fleas in the editorial
office of WDJ – which is on the ground floor of
my home in a part of California that is famous
for fleas. Plus, I have a more or less constant
stream of potentially flea-bearing dogs coming
through my home and office: dogs belonging
to friends and relatives, and models and “test”
dogs who try out products for us. Also, I have
an indoor/outdoor cat, whom (I’m sure) helps
carry fleas from here to there around my
neighborhood. After seeing my long-haired
Chihuahua scratch and finding a couple of fleas
on him, I decided that my office would make a
perfect test of these products.
I searched through a pile of pet supply catalogs
and found two products appearing in a number
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 21www.whole-dog-journal.com
WHOLE DOG JOURNAL’S
0-4 PAWS PRODUCT RATING:
As good as it gets. We enjoy &
approve of the product.
A good product, but with one or two
significant flaws.
The product has Some value, but it also
has some serious flaws; buyer beware.
We are including The product only because of its
potential for improvement.
The product has no redeeming value –
at least, none that wdj can appreciate.
THE ULTIMATE FLEA TRAP
$12.50
$4 FOR THREE
REPLACEMENT
PADS
Victor, Lititz, PA
(800) 800-1819; victorpest.com
We purchased from Jeffers Pet
Supply, (800) 533-3377
of them. I ordered both from Jeffers, which
advertised the lowest price.
Flunking the test
Here’s how these products are
supposed to work: A small electric light bulb – the
size that goes into the average night light, or oldfashioned Christmas tree lights – is suspended
by a plastic case over a tray that contains a supersticky pad. Fleas are attracted to the light, heat,
and supposedly, infrared rays of the bulb, and
jump toward it, landing on and adhering to the
sticky pad.
I kept the flea traps plugged in (there is no on/
off switch on either product) for two full months.
I positioned them about a foot apart, on the
carpeted floor between my office door and
Mokie’s crate. Mokie sleeps in my office at night,
in a sleeping bag-style bed in the crate, and he’s
in and out of the office all day, as are all my guest
dogs. The directions of both products suggested
placing the traps as close as possible to the places
where pets sleep and walk.
THE FLEA TRAP
$15
$5 FOR THREE
REPLACEMENT
PADS
SpringStar LLC, Woodinville, WA
(800) 769-1043; springstar.net
We purchased from Jeffers Pet
Supply, (800) 533-3377
that the sticky pads in the traps were not sticky
enough to catch fleas, I once dropped a flea that
I had combed out of Mokie’s fur onto one of the
pads. It stuck! But after walking past the traps
wearing white socks and seeing two fleas jump
onto my socks – and not toward the traps – I had
to conclude that these products are not helpful
in attracting (and thus controlling or detecting) a
light flea population.
I didn’t test the traps in the face of a heavy flea
infestation, but given their poor performance in
this test, I would choose more effective options if
my home and workplace was overrun by fleas.
But in two months, neither trap caught a single
flea – and not because there weren’t fleas here.
Using a flea comb, I removed fleas from both Mokie
and my cat throughout that time. Not a lot, but
at least a dozen or so per week. In addition to the
combing, I employed a number of other nontoxic
flea-control techniques – baths for the animals and
frequent vacuuming and floor-washing.
The traps did attract and kill a few other insects,
including flies, tiny gnats, and one ant. Worried
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 22www.whole-dog-journal.com
New Flea and Tick
Products Hit the
Market
What’s new in the world
of conventional flea and
tick treatments?
by Mary Straus
Lately, it seems like new flea and tick control
products have been popping up left and right.
I suspect this is due to some of the original
patents running out. When a patent expires,
other companies can create generic versions of
the same product, usually for less money. This
inspires the original companies to create new
products that they can patent anew. In some
cases, new products are introduced because fleas
and ticks may be developing resistance to the
older products, lowering their efficacy. Most new
products, including all those introduced this year,
are just new combinations of older ingredients.
Here’s a rundown on these new options.
Bayer introduced Advantage II and K9 Advantix
II in January 2011. The added ingredient in these
new topical products is pyriproxyfen (Nylar),
an insect growth regulator that inhibits the
development of eggs and larvae, helping to break
the flea life cycle. Other insect growth regulators
used in flea control products include lufenuron
(Program and Sentinel) and S-methoprene (see
Certifect below). Pyriproxyfen was used in Bio
Spot flea control products in the past, but was
replaced with S-methoprene around 2007.
These new products are also marketed under
the name Advantage Plus and K9 Advantix Plus.
Pyriproxyfen is also used on cats.
Other ingredients in Advantage products
include imidacloprid, used to control fleas, and
permethrin (K9 Advantix only), used to kill ticks.
Permethrin is highly toxic to cats, and products
containing permethrin are unsafe to use on dogs
in households that include cats, particularly if
the dog and cat share sleeping areas or the cat
grooms the dog.
As with many flea and tick control ingredients,
permethrin may also be more likely to cause
problems for small dogs, according to the EPA’s
Review of 2008 Incident Reports for Pet Spot-on
Pesticides. Shih Tzu, Bichon Frise, Chihuahua,
Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese, and Pomeranian are
breeds that appear to be overrepresented in
adverse incidents. Bayer also makes Advantage
Multi, which combines imidacloprid with
moxidectin for heartworm prevention.
Also in January, Elanco (a division of Eli Lilly)
introduced Trifexis, a new oral product that
combines spinosad (Comfortis), used to kill fleas,
with milbemycin oxime (found in Interceptor
and Sentinel), used to prevent heartworm
infection and intestinal parasites. Comfortis
is a newer flea-control product introduced
in November 2007 that appears to be more
effective than either Advantage or Frontline
(likely due to fleas developing resistance to these
older products), but it may also have more side
effects, such as vomiting, particularly when the
medication is first used. Spinosad should not be
combined with the very high doses of ivermectin
(Heartgard) or milbemycin oxime (Interceptor)
used to treat demodectic mange, as it increases
their neurological effects, but should be safe
when used along with the normal heartworm
preventive dosage found in this new product.
Spinosad is not recommended for dogs with
seizure disorders.
Unlike most flea and tick control products,
Comfortis and Trifexis are administered orally
rather than topically, via a pill that is given once a
month. Neither product is recommended for dogs
weighing less than 5 pounds. Comfortis is not
recommended for puppies under the age of 14
weeks, and Trifexis warns that younger puppies
may experience a higher rate of vomiting. These
products are not approved for cats, but a similar
product to Comfortis called Assurity, marketed
for cats. Comfortis is also marketed under the
name AcuGuard.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 23www.whole-dog-journal.com
In July, Merial introduced Certifect, likely as a
result of the patent on their Frontline products
expiring. Certifect contains fipronil (the active
ingredient in Frontline, used to kill fleas and
ticks, and to help control sarcoptic mange) and
S-methoprene (Precor, an insect growth regulator
also found in Frontline Plus). Certifect adds
amitraz, one of the most effective, but also more
toxic, methods of tick control. Amitraz is also used
in the Preventic tick collar, and in Mitaban, used
to treat demodectic mange.
Amitraz should not be used on dogs with diabetes
or heart problems, and older amitraz products
warn against using them on puppies less than
four months of age and very small dogs. Amitraz,
a monoamine oxidase inhibitor (MAOI), can also
be dangerous when combined with certain other
drugs, including antidepressants (such as those
used to treat separation anxiety), Anipryl (used
for canine cognitive dysfunction and Cushing’s
disease), and DL-Phenylalanine (DL PA), used to
treat chronic pain in dogs. While Frontline and
Frontline Plus are safe to use on cats, Certifect is
not, as amitraz is toxic to cats.
For those who want to try the new generic
versions of older products, there are a few things
to keep in mind. First, these products may not be
identical to the original product. While the active
ingredient is the same, other inert ingredients,
such as those used to spread topical applications
across the body, may differ. The generic product
might not be as effective, or might cause
problems for your dog that didn’t occur with the
original product. Watch for any signs of adverse
effects, or of products not working as well,
whenever you try anything new.
Be careful where you buy your flea and tick
products, particularly online, where many
counterfeits are found. Be sure that the seller
is trustworthy. One solution is to look for the
Veterinary-Verified Internet Pharmacy Practice
Sites (Vet-VIPPS) seal of approval.
The only product using a new ingredient (rather
than a new combination of older ingredients) is
Vectra, introduced in 2007 and sold only through
veterinarians. Vectra products (there are several) all
include dinotefuran, a newer insecticide that kills
fleas on contact. Vectra also contains the insect
growth regulator pyriproxyfen (see Advantage
II above), and Vectra 3D adds permethrin to kill
ticks (similar to K9 Advantix). Vectra is also sold as
FirstShield and SimpleGuard. Vectra products are
made by Summit VetPharm, originally a subsidiary
of the Hartz Mountain Corp. (Summit was sold to
CEVA Animal Health in 2010).
We’d advise caution in using any of these new
products. Adding more chemicals and using more
toxic ingredients may make these products more
effective, but it also increases their potential
for adverse effects. In some cases, such as when
nothing else is effective for dogs with flea
allergies or regular tick exposure, the benefit may
be worth the risk, but we wouldn’t recommend
switching if what you’re using now is working.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 24www.whole-dog-journal.com
A Bad Year for Fleas?
by Nancy Kerns
In August 2011 Whole Dog Journal posted this blog
on its website. The post and reader comments give
some interesting and useful thoughts on ways to
combat fleas. The comments are reader - submitted
and Whole Dog Journal has not verified or tested all
of the suggestions.
Is it just us, or is this the worst year for fleas in a
long a time? Or should we say, “best” year for the
fleas, and worst year for cats and dogs?
Just about everyone we know is suddenly battling
flea infestations, and several dogs we know have
been tortured by enough bites that they’ve chewed
or scratched themselves raw, instigating some
awful secondary infections or “hot spots.” And this is
in an area not usually plagued by that many fleas.
We’ve been quizzing our friends about what they
use for protection from fleas, and the answers
have included every spot-on topical we’ve ever
heard of, and some low-budget knock-offs we
haven’t. Almost everyone who has complained
of a flea problem has mentioned that sometime
between week 2 and week three after application,
the fleas seem able to return to the dogs (and
cats) with impunity.
In our youth, it was common to see dogs whose
teeth were worn down from near-constant
chewing – self-mutilation due to severe flea
bites and flea allergies. As adults, we’ve been
lulled into a false sense of security that the flea
problem has been solved by modern chemistry.
Intellectually, we know better; no insect can be
controlled forever by a handful of chemicals
alone. It takes a true, multi-faceted integrated
pest management program, including indoor and
outdoor treatments, as well as constant cleaning
and vigilance, to control fleas – especially if you
have cats (feral or not) who come and go, wildlife
vectors (rats, raccoons, skunks, foxes, etc.) in close
proximity, or lots of visiting dogs.
We have to ask again: Is it just here in Northern
California where the flea population seems to
have exploded this year?
Reader Comment 1
We just discovered a HUGE infestation
(we're also in NorCal). After bathing,
using Frontline, washing all the bedding,
fogging every room, dusting every piece
of carpeting and bedding and adding
the pill CapStar, he STILL has them.
What's a person to do? He's old and
immune compromised; we can't risk
any more chemicals.
Petaluma Frustrated
Reader Comment 2
We’re fighting the battle, too. We’ve been
attempting to introduce our two new kittens to
our old cat slowly. Shadow is 14 or 15 years old,
and has never had to live with another cat; she’s
not taking it that well. The kittens are the last
two of the litter of former fosters, who are now
part of the family. We’ve been keeping them at
our office building, but want to move them home
with us full-time. To keep from sending the old
cat off the deep end, we’ve been bringing them
home in a carrier for short visits – and I think
we’ve been unwittingly transmitting fleas around
the neighborhood this way, too! We’ve used a
monthly spot-on product on Otto for the past
three months, and other products for cats on all
the rest of the gang – plus we vacuum constantly,
but we’re still seeing fleas.
I'm in Texas and have never had a flea
problem ever until this year. What you
said about using the treatment and it
lasting only 2-3 weeks, is exactly what I'm
experiencing as well. Three weeks and my
dogs are back to itching and scratching.
It's not just in California. I have heard
others here in Texas who are having the
same problems.
Reader Comment 3
I use a spot-on every three/four months
or so. Other than that I spray the dogs
down once every ten days with Richard's
Organics spray and so far: Not a single
flea and only three or four ticks this year.
You guys need to move east it seems ! :-))
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 25www.whole-dog-journal.com
I am in Maine and have been having
trouble with fleas this year. The funny thing
is that this is the very first time I have had
an issue (and, doing rescue brings in dogs
with fleas, but not like this). The funny
thing is, the infestation was not at my
house - it was at my mother's house and
two of my dogs brought the fleas home.
My dogs are Shetland Sheepdogs, so the
long hair makes it very difficult for sprays
and combs to get down to the skin.
After using diatomaceous earth, natural
sprays, our normal Frontline Plus and
washing all bedding (mine and the dogs')
in very hot water weekly, I had to pull out
the big guns and I went with Capstar and
Program. The fleas were gone three days
later, even though I cringed at using an
internal, rather than a topical flea
control product.
I had to go this route, though, since two
of the dogs have severe flea allergies and
I could not watch them scratching and
licking anymore.
Reader Comment 4
We used to use Frontline Plus. A few years
ago it just quit working. Our male Westie,
McTavish, is allergic to flea bites and he
was chewing his tail raw. It ended up
that the fleas here in Arkansas became
immune to the Frontline Plus. We haven't
used it since. I read where the immunity
happened in a number of states.
We hate using poison to counteract fleas
and ticks. We tried different things that
didn't work. I started giving all four dogs
1/4 tsp garlic once a day, in conjunction
with Braggs ACV. It has worked. I have seen
no fleas or ticks on any of them this season.
We get the garlic from Springtime Inc.
Reader Comment 5
Texas has seen a record high flea season
as well. When my dog & home became
infested (while he was on Frontline Plus),
I did all the regular first lines of defense
including a flea bath, vacuuming,
bombing, etc. The fleas came back again
and then I tried a new oral flea medication
that was recommended to me by fellow
dog owners and my vet. Comfortis worked
within one day. Not trying to push meds,
but it was miraculous in my situation.
Reader Comment 6
In south Florida, it has been horrible
this year. Frontline top spot and spray,
Advantage, Advantix, etc. no longer work
at all. I've also tried Adams and Zodiac
sprays. When you first spray, the fleas
die immediately; the next day they are
back jumping all over the dogs and me
without a care in the world. I'm bathing
the dogs every week and just vacuuming
and re-spraying constantly, it seems. My
vet recommended I use Borax around
the house. I used it years ago with good
results, but had forgotten it's been so long
since I'v had a problem, so I'm trying it
again. Good luck everyone!
Reader Comment 7
For the first time this year I decided to use
spot on flea/tick treatments only as a last
resort. Instead I have been using a cedar
oil product called Dr. Ben's Paws and
Claws. I apply it every two to three days
and so far both of my terriers have been
flea free. I found a tick on one dog after
a long walk in the woods (we're in East
Tennessee) and that has been it so far. This
product can also be applied to clothing,
furniture, etc. It is organic and actually
kills the fleas and ticks and their eggs on
contact, yet it is non toxic. Because cedar
oil is a natural anti-bacterial product it
is useful to promote healing of hot spots
and mange. I also have started using it on
myself before heading out to garden and
have been amazed at its effectiveness.
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 26www.whole-dog-journal.com
Reader Comment 8
Reader Comment 10
I give my dogs 1/2 clove each of fresh garlic
daily (minced, on top of their food) to keep
fleas off of them, and it works very well.
The only time they get fleas is if I have
forgotten to give them garlic for a few
days. Once they're eating garlic again, the
fleas disappear.
In our pet-sitting business, we occasionally
run into flea infestations. For years, we
have used Mule Team Borax on the carpets
and upholstered furniture. We now
recommend this to our clients with flea
problems: Sprinkle borax (a flour sifter
works great) over all carpeted areas. Let it
sit for three days to work its way into the
carpet. Vacuum. In two weeks do it again
to get the ones that have hatched. A third
time is usually not required. We have never
had to do this more than twice a year here
in Southern California.
Before I learned about garlic, I was using a
lemon and tea tree oil spray (and rosemary,
I think), but I had to make it myself, and it
had to be applied frequently. (I can look for
the recipe, if someone wants it.)
For those whose dogs already have bites,
swabbing the bites with witch hazel will
stop the itching. One night my sheltie
had a bunch of bites and was scratching
incessantly, so I did this to her (she
clearly didn't like the smell), and she was
immediately able to settle down and sleep.
She remembered this--months later, when
she again had itchy bites, she woke me
up at night and seemed to be asking for
something, but it wasn't to be let out. I
found some welts on her, put witch hazel on
them, and she lay down and went to sleep.
Reader Comment 11
The best natural flea/tick/bug stuff is
Cedarcide! Kills instantly. Does not harm
your pet, your carpet, your furniture, your
yard! It is good for their coats, as it is cedar
oil...smells just like grandma's cedar closet.
best of all -- NO chemicals -- all natural. If
your petstore does not carry it, you can get
it at (www.cedarcide.com)! We have two
goldens and a cat in South Florida. Now
our holistic vet recommends it!
Reader Comment 12
Reader Comment 9
I use PETCOR flea spray, it is good for 63
days, relatively inexpensive as compared
to the other products on the market. I
have used this product for 22 yrs now and
rarely get any fleas (usually brought into
the kennel by another dog). This product
is so safe and effective it can be used on
newborn pups by spraying a towel and
holding them in it. This yr has been a very
very bad yr for fleas and ticks. Probably
due to the wet spring most of us in the
northeast experienced. You can also spray
your grass with a flea product, as this is
where they are reinfesting from. It does
require deligence on your part but worth
it to not have those little critters make
their way into your house and on your
pets. This product is good for both cats
and dogs, as well as puppies and kittens.
I also give my dog granulated garlic from
Springtime Inc., and also add apple cider
vinegar to his water. He also wears Anibio
Tic Clip on his collar. After his walks, I flea
comb him and I find a flea on him every
once in a while not as much as when
he was on K9 Advantix. While on K9
Advantix I picked off 18 fleas off him after
a morning walk. He walks 2-3 times a day
so I flea comb him 2-3 times a day. When
I used spot-on chemical treatments years
ago he was lethargic for days after the
application and after researching about
how dangerous it is for them and as well
as us I stopped that immediately and
went to more natural route using garlic
and spraying him with herbal mixture. It
has worked way better than using spoton poison on him. Good luck everyone!
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 27www.whole-dog-journal.com
Reader Comment 13
Someone on an Internet group that I'm
on said she had gotten desperate for a
solution until she discovered the Easy
Defense Flea and Tick Tag which hangs on
the collar and uses the petsown energy
through a bio-magnetic field to repell
pests. Since we were going to be bringing
a 2 month old puppy to TX I thought
I'd give it a try. We've been using it for 6
weeks now and I've never seen a flea on
him. It lasts for up to three years too!
Reader Comment 14
I stopped using the spot on product 2 years
ago. I used Advantix & one of my dog
got lyme disease. So much for that stuff. I
contacted the company & they state it is
not 100%. I never liked putting that poison
on them to begin with & the fact that it
didn't protect him helped me to decide to
stop using it.
This cedar oil is made from the Texas Red
Cedar. Apparently, other types of cedar are
not safe for pets. I use the Best Yet spray on
my dogs & PCO choice on my yard. I have
not had any problems. We live in PA so we
have a high incidence of ticks in this area.
I am keeping my fingers crossed that it
continues to work because I really do not
want to use the poisons again.
Reader Comment 15
I've been battling fleas for the past three
years. Last year I had a professional
exterminator come in. I took all dogs out
of my kennel, gave them Confortis ( which
killed every flea on every dog), kept them
out of the kennel for nearly two months.
My kennel was attacked with four
different legal flea killing preparations
on a weekly basis for four weeks and
after a month of no flea activity, I put the
dogs back in the kennel. Within a week,
fleas were back too. Since then, I've tried
diamatious earth, cedar bedding, topical
flea stuff every three weeks on a schedule,
and Confortis every month to every dog. I
still have fleas!! I am at my wits' end. Any
suggestions would be gratefully accepted
and tried. I've read the other posts and
I will try any I haven't already tried. Oh
yes, I am also bombing my kennel every
other week. I started that two weeks
ago. I've been told that the government
banned most of the products that were
strong enough to eradicate the fleas.
This was told to me by the professional
exterminators who worked diligently for
weeks to rid me of the fleas. The problem
is not as bad as it was but it's endless
vigilance and mucho bucks and time. I
am in the east. It's been hot this year but
it's been hot before.
Reader Comment 16
I'm in Texas and have been using
Comfortis for some time now and it really
works!!! Once a month pill and I have see
not one flea and that is with my dogs
going to dog parks on a regular basis and
walking every day!!
Reader Comment 17
I'm almost afraid to say that I haven't
found a flea or tick so far this year.
Upstate NY We have two dogs and live
in the country. They are out on the
grass every day and walk along side a
hedgerow. I discovered Natural Chemistry
Flea and Tick Spray for Dogs last year. I
have been using it weekly ever since. I
also spray the yard, grass, bushes and as
high up the tress as possible, with an all
natural ECO Friendly Insect Spray every
few weeks. In the summer I use a spot on
product, usually Bio-Spot, about half as
often as reccommeded. I also use Petz Life
ProtectZ which is added to their food. I
like the cedar oil thing and am going to
investigate that. There is cedar oil in the
spray I use.
Reader Comment 18
I'm in Northern Maryland and we
definitely have fleas and ticks. I'm in the
woods 3-4 times a week with my 2 dogs
so I Frontline them regularly. What I
discovered was that starting the Frontline
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 28www.whole-dog-journal.com
EARLY (beginning of March for us) was the
key to having it work. Waiting until flea
season got rolling was too late and then
I'd spend months battling them.
Also, warm spells in weather can bring
fleas out, so I won't hesitate to treat them
in February if I have to. I'm not fond of
the 'chemicals' in these products, but it
beats battling a flea infestation which
is uncomfortable and unhealthy for all
canines, felines, and humans involved.
Reader Comment 19
I am afraid to say this..... but I live in
New Orleans and have had No Fleas this
year. Everyone else I know is complaining
how awful the fleas are this year. I am
not doing anything, no frontline, no
comfortis, no cedar oil. I noticed my flea
problem stopped in 2007. When I rebulit
after Katrina I elevated my house 10 feet
off the ground. And I blocked off cat sized
every opening in my fence. Pre Katrina
the feral cats would "hang out" under
my house which was only 3 feet off the
ground. I had to bomb, treat the dogs,
vaccuum (and remember to double bag
and throw away the vacuum bag after
each vacuum) Also I used a flea trap. It
was a low watt light that was suspended
over a glue trap. I took personal pleasure
in seeing those fleas stuck on the glue
trap. I hope I have not just jinxed myself.
Reader Comment 20
My 16 yr old dog had fleas around 10
years ago. Turned out she was allergic to
the spot on flea control and almost died,
so I cannot use that again. Prior to that
she had tried Program and vomited it up
every time so that's useless to her. I can't
remember what I used at that time to
get rid of the fleas but it was definitely
something topical and holistic and we
have been fortunate in not having them
again since. I have a flea trap in my
house and haven't seen any on it. I live in
Washington state. Whenever we travel we
bring our dogs and are always worried
about picking up both fleas and ticks
because we do a lot of hiking in the woods
and we stay at vacation homes that are
pet friendly (and probably flea friendly
too!). We put rose geranium essential
oil and rosemary essential oil, few drops
of each, on their collars and harnesses
(not on their skin!) before we go. When
we get back from traveling, every item
of clothing, bedding, etc. goes from the
car/suitcase to the garage laundry and
doesn't make it back in the house till
it's washed. Bedding and towels in hot
water and vinegar added to the rinse
cycle. The dogs immediately get a bath
with tea tree oil formula shampoo (Earth
Bath). We have had no fleas and only 1
tick in 7 years of using this method and
my younger dog used to pick up several
ticks on each hike in the woods prior to
doing this! They are on a good diet, partly
raw, with salmon oil, and a supplement
that contains garlic so maybe this has
something to do with it as well. Good
luck everyone!!
Reader Comment 21
I use Frontline Plus every 30 days, live in
a grassy area in Arkansas and have no
issues with my 2 (long-haired) terriers.
Perhaps I'm just lucky?
I have one suggestion. Google the MSDS
(Material Safety Data Sheets) sheets
for the products you're considering. For
example, compare the OSHA/NIOSH/
ACGIH PELs (permissible exposure
levels) or TLVs (threshold limit value
often combined with TWA or time
weighted average for an 8-hr workday)
under "exposure controls and personal
protection" section. This speaks to
workplace exposure safety, standards
which are higher than for the general
public. The standards are designed to
keep workplace exposures under a safe
level. They are often listed in ppm (parts/
million) or mg/kg. Compare this info
between products you're considering. You
want to choose a product with a higher
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 29www.whole-dog-journal.com
ppm (meaning it takes more of a product
to produce toxicity).
Then look under the "Toxicological
Information" section for LD-50 (dose at
which half the population --often a rat or
other lab animal--consuming the product
dies). The higher the LD-50 number the
safer the product. The LD-50 and toxicity
information included in MSDS sheets
usually tells you many other scientific
facts such as oral/inhalation/skin
dangers, flammability, environmental
toxicity, etc.)that may help you to make
the safest decision for your pet.
the dogs weren't itching. The ticks, too,
have been aweful for the last couple of
years--not so much in the yard but along
the rural road where we go for walks. The
Advantix seems to take care of the ones
I miss but I still go over them everytime
we've been out walking. I even take a pair
of tweezers and a small bottle of alcohol
along to dispatch ones I find along the
way (easier & quicker than trying to
squish them).
Reader Comment 23
Sometimes "natural" doesn't necessarily
mean safer. For example, the ACGIH TLV
for Frontline Plus is 1000ppm, while
the equivalent data for Cedarcide's two
components are each 200ppm--meaning
the safety buffer for FL Plus is five times
higher! There are other factors to consider
when comparing these two products and
I urge you to do the comparisons yourself.
By accessing the MSDS to compare,
you become highly informed using
science, and do not have to rely solely on
anecdotal evidence/biased advertising/
sometimes biased news reports. It also
has useful information on safe disposal of
leftover products. You don't have to be a
chemist to understand an MSDS--so try it!
Flea N' Tick Begone is all I've ever used on
my dogs. Our latest rescue came home
with Stick-Tite fleas - like miniature ticks.
I bathed him and our other dog with
Flea N'Tick Begone, treated the house
and furniture with an herbal powder I
found (we had wall-to-wall carpet then
that is now all gone) - don't remember
what it was but got it at Petco. We used
Beneficial Nematodes in our yard the
one year we had a tick infestation. If
we ever get fleas and/or ticks again
(nothing in 5 years now!) I will use the
same things as they worked and are nontoxic. There are two types of beneficial
nematodes and you should be able to
find them at a local garden store or
you can order them online from Arbico
Organics, which is where I got mine and
the Flea N' Tick Begone.
Reader Comment 22
Reader Comment 24
I live in rural north central Kentucky and
the fleas have been aweful this year. Lots
of woods close to the house (along with
deer, squirrels, rabbits, mice, chipmunks,
etc.). I have used Frontline Plus for years
which seemed to work OK until this year.
It seemed to be losing its effectiveness
even though my vet swore that they
weren't seeing any resistance to the
product. I was having to comb my dogs
(both dogs are allergic to them) and cats
for fleas every time them went outside.
I finally switched to Advantix and saw
results within a day. Suddenly I wasn't
finding any fleas on the dogs or cats and
I stopped using Frontline several years
ago because it stopped working. Since
then I've found I have few problems. I did
a little research and found that eggs are
next to impossible to kill. They can survive
intact for years and hatch when they
sense body heat. I decided to stop treating
fleas like the enemy and accept that there
are going to be a few around when you
have dogs and cats... I vacuum, have few
carpets I can't machine wash, and feed
the best diet I can. My two, black standard
poodles almost never have trouble. My
mini and toy poodles are light colored
and struggle in the Summer. I use Capstar
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 30www.whole-dog-journal.com
when they get bad, bathe, flea comb, and
wash bedding. Anyone know if fleas are
attracted to light colors?
Posted by Heidi in Nashville TN
per day". Our vet recommends using it
with "Program" (as Capstar also states) so
we're doing both. So far so good!
Posted by: didalpf
Reader Comment 25
Report this comment
I just ordered Best Yet cedar oil spray
from cedarcide website.
I live in southeast Iowa and have a yellow
Lab, who has been tick and flea-free this
year. I sprinkle Bug Check on my dog's
food from the (www.thenaturalvet.
net.) She also wears an Only Natural Pet
EasyDefense Flea and Tick Tag from (www.
onlynaturalpet.com.) When we walk at
night, I spray Only Natural Pet Herbal
Defense Spray on her, and I shampoo her
with Only Natural Pet Herbal Defense
Shampoo. This is our third summer in
Iowa and she has never had a flea, but
she did get ticks until I started using the
Bug Check this spring. My dog eats a
high quality kibble in the morning and a
dehydrated raw mix in the evening along
with salmon oil, enzymes and probiotics.
Reader Comment 26
Maybe I should knock on wood or
something but I have seen no fleas this
year. With my 5 pit bulls it used to be
terrible. A few years back, my dogs had
100 fleas a day on them so I used a topical
flea killer, sprayed house and yard. One
dog nearly died and was covered with
pus/blood filled lumps for a few weeks. I
decided fleas were better than dead dogs
and changed their DIET. First I added
human food, then switched to raw. They
get garlic in their food too. For two years
I used Borax on the carpets. This year I've
used nothing but healthy food. How great
is that? Oh, by the way, I'm in Georgia.
Reader Comment 27
To those of you who use cedarcide
product, are you still having success with
no fleas on your pets? I can't wait for the
spray to be delivered. I walk my dog every
day and unfortunately with all the stuff
I've been doing with him he still picks up
a flea or two. He's highly allergic to flea
bites so it breaks my heart when I see him
suffer. I feed him granulated garlic with
his food and also use anibio tic clip on his
collar and I flea comb him daily.
-Greg Tilford, is well-known in the field of veterinary herbal medicine. He is an international
lecturer and author of four books, including Herbs
for Pets, recently released in a second edition. He
is president and formulating herbalist for Animal Essentials, a company that produces natural
supplements for animals. Visit his blog at theanimalherbalist.com, or see animalessentials.com
-Kathleen Dudley is a writer and photgrapher, and
lives in New Mexico.
-Mary Straus is the owner of Dog Aware.com.
she and hedr Norwich Terrier, Ella, live in the San
Francisco Bay area.
-Nancy Kerns is the Editor of The Whole
Dog Journal.
We're also in NorCal & having trouble
with fleas again this month after years
of getting by on "Neem Protective Spray"
for our Lab (& an aging parent's older
Golden too). Capstar is great but, as our
vet warned us, only works for about a
day which is why the insert says "you can
safely give another dose as often as once
The Whole Dog Journal™ Keeping Your Dog Flea Free — 31www.whole-dog-journal.com