Fashion in History: A Global Look Tutor: Giorgio Riello Week 20 Tueday 2 March 2010 Subcultures: Zoots to Chays Dick Hebrige, Subculture: The Meaning of Style (London and New York, 1977), pp. 47-70: ch. 4. HC 1411.H3 (Also available as e-book). David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style (Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7 ‘Resistance, Incorporation and Authenticity’. HD 5800.M8 Ted Polhemus, ‘Trickle Down, Bubble Up’, in Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun (eds.), The Fashion Reader (Oxford, 2007), pp. 327-331. Skinhead wearing Fred Perry Scene from the Film This is England, 2007 2. Subcultures from the 1930s to the 1980s "a killer-diller coat with a drape shape, reet pleats and shoulders padded like a lunatic's cell.“ Malcolm X Teddy Boys 1962 Rockers 1964 Mods in Brighton 1964 Sixties fashion Mod Rockers Newcastle http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqbS7pxsTj8&feature=related Students’ Protests in 1968 Woodstock festival, 15-18 August 1969 Amnesia’s members in 1976 Skinheads – Suedheads http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd_GcDz7UQc Quentin Crisp (1908-99), author of The Naked Civil Servant (1968) Village People in the late 1970s 1980 thriller, Cruising starring Al Pacino Frankie goes to Hollywood and ‘Relax’ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPLrXFw76Qg&feature=related Gay subcultures became mainstream: The 2007 Cincinnati Gay Pride and the cover of the gay magazine Attitude 3. Subcultures, Styles and Fashion David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: The Postmodern Meaning of Style (Oxford, 2000), pp. 131-155: ch. 7 ‘Resistance, Incorporation and Authenticity’. HD 5800.M8 “If you see someone who, it just looks like they’ve just gone out and spent two hundred pounds in London on the right punk gear and someone’s put the safety pins through it for them and someone’s put the studs on for ‘em and that, that’s not right, is it? What’s the fun of that?” Cit. in David Muggleton, Inside Subculture: Postmodern Meaning of Style (2000), p. 145. Sex Pistols - bill grundy tv show http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p25SdQEnhHI 4. Subcultures and Fashion: Theoretical Implications Paul Blumberg, The Decline and Fall of the Status Symbol: Some Thoughts on Status in a Post-industrial Society’, Social Problems, 21, No. 4 (1974), pp. 480-498. Cybermod New Age Glam Mohican Punk Grafiti Pervs and Trannies Barbaric Dolls Fetish Chavs hitting Burberry in the pocket http://search.bbc.co.uk/cgi-bin/search/results.pl?tab=av&q=chavs&scope=all Tainted Love 1964 Gloria Jones http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSehtaY6k1U 1980 Soft Cell http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3fCFkl-BFU 2001 Marilyn Manson http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQuKo3SevVA 2005 Pussycat dolls http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w37thYX6aYM